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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ 73 914 2.0 Rebuild
Posted by: R Dub Dec 3 2017, 02:34 PM
Finally got the car back to IL and started to clean it up. Overall he car is in really good shape. There is virtually no rust on it. Just a very little bit starting to form on the front fender by the hood. The paint is in really good condition but will probably need a new paint job as there are some chips in that that won't be able to touch up since it is 30+ years old. Will need the Recaro seats to be redone and will need a new arm rest. Drained the old gas out of it and then drained the oil which was mostly sludge. Bought sludge remover and put that in the case to help break it up. The mice ate the plug wires and the battery is totally shot. What spark plugs and wires do you guys recommend?
Here are a few picture.
http://s582.photobucket.com/user/rwdirtbike/media/Porsche/IMG_20170911_112011439.jpg.html
http://s582.photobucket.com/user/rwdirtbike/media/Porsche/IMG_20171202_144422229_HDR.jpg.html
http://s582.photobucket.com/user/rwdirtbike/media/Porsche/IMG_20171202_143449566.jpg.html
http://s582.photobucket.com/user/rwdirtbike/media/Porsche/IMG_20171202_143610901.jpg.html
http://s582.photobucket.com/user/rwdirtbike/media/Porsche/IMG_20171202_143550624.jpg.html
Posted by: Olympic 914 Dec 3 2017, 05:07 PM
Slantnose looks nicely done.
Posted by: krazykonrad Dec 4 2017, 09:18 AM
The general consensus is that the original Bosch copper-core single electrode spark plugs are the best to use. I'm not sure of the part number, but they should be easy to find. I'd go with Bosch or Clewett Engineering wires.
Konrad
Posted by: R Dub Dec 4 2017, 11:54 AM
The general consensus is that the original Bosch copper-core single electrode spark plugs are the best to use. I'm not sure of the part number, but they should be easy to find. I'd go with Bosch or Clewett Engineering wires.
Konrad
Great. I will look into those
Posted by: mgphoto Dec 4 2017, 12:25 PM
Beru another OEM supplier.
Posted by: The Cabinetmaker Dec 4 2017, 12:44 PM
Most folks use ngk plugs and beru wires
Posted by: R Dub Dec 4 2017, 03:18 PM
Just bought a set of Beru Wires and Bosch plugs from Pelican parts. Thanks for the suggestions. Now onto looking for a battery, fuel filter and oil filter. The current fuel filter on it is square and all the factory ones I see are circular shape so that tells me it is aftermarket. Also my Grandpa installed a additional canister oil filter which is aftermarket.
Posted by: mgphoto Dec 4 2017, 04:01 PM
Battery recommendation AGM, no free acid, prevents hell hole issues.
Optima, Bosch makes one but the connections are in the wrong place.
Posted by: R Dub Dec 4 2017, 04:52 PM
Battery recommendation AGM, no free acid, prevents hell hole issues.
Optima, Bosch makes one but the connections are in the wrong place.
Thanks for the tip. I'll definitely look into an AGM battery
Posted by: Larmo63 Dec 4 2017, 10:11 PM
Those seats look like Scheels. Are they marked Recaro?
And.....
Posted by: burton73 Dec 4 2017, 10:49 PM
Those seats look like Scheels. Are they marked Recaro?
And.....
Look at my Scheel
logo on my seat. A little different shape?Bob B
Posted by: R Dub Dec 10 2017, 01:53 PM
I was told by my dad and Grandpa that they are Recaro's but I will take a second look cause the seats do look similar.
Also I see Duracell has a AGM battery that the terminals look correct on from Batteries Plus. Anyone have any experience with this one?
Posted by: R Dub Feb 17 2018, 09:17 PM
Update. Actually got the car running to day. First time it ran in 18 years. And really it didn't take make to get it to go. Drained all the old oil and fuel out of it. Had to rebuild the electric fuel pump. Had to take off and clean out one of the carbs, had to change the plugs and wires, new battery and it started. Super excited. Still more to go but knowing that ir ran is amazing.
Posted by: burton73 Feb 17 2018, 10:02 PM
It there snow on the ground there.
Stay dry my friend!
Looking good
Bob B
Posted by: burton73 Feb 17 2018, 10:05 PM
This is a Konig driver's seat, but sure looks a lot like a Scheel 401/501, except for the leg bolsters
I looked up you seats and I think they are Konigs
Round logo.
There are great seats.
Posted by: Porschef Feb 18 2018, 08:22 AM
I've got the same wheel on my car, your horn button looks to be in nice shape. 
Posted by: R Dub Feb 19 2018, 09:43 AM
I looked up you seats and I think they are Konigs
Round logo.
There are great seats.
Thanks for the input. The logo on both seats are so busy worn that I can't see them. I will look into Konigs.
Posted by: R Dub Feb 19 2018, 09:44 AM
I've got the same wheel on my car, your horn button looks to be in nice shape.
I absolutely love that wheel. Yeah it is in great shape
Posted by: R Dub Feb 19 2018, 09:50 AM
Looking for some parts advice.
1. Right under the engine hatch there is a black plastic funnel that a house connects to bring water out of the engine bay and under the car. Both the funnel and hose are melted on the drivers side. Any idea where I can get new ones?
2. The car has duel Weber 44 carbs in it. The air filters that were on it looked to have come from a dune buggy as the cover said Claude's Buggies on it. They are oval and measure about 7" long x 4" wide x 3.5" tall. Any idea where I can get new air filters?
Posted by: fishgeckos Feb 19 2018, 10:06 AM
I like the rear spoiler.
Posted by: R Dub Feb 26 2018, 01:01 PM
A couple of questions. As I mentions this car does have dual Weber carbs on it. Anyone know of a place that specializes in Weber carbs that I can have them sent to be rebuilt?
Also you have to pump and hold the brake pedal to get any sort of pressure. Once the pressure is there, you can hold the pedal firm, it does not move. However as soon as you release the pedal you have to pump them again to get the pressure back. I know I need to do a complete flush of the fluid since it is 30 years old but anything other ideas what could be causing this?
Posted by: R Dub Mar 16 2018, 05:48 PM
Just a quick update, I found a place in CA called JayCee Enterprises that specializes in Weber carbs so I sent them there. I'll update this post later with the quality of their work once I get them back.
Also I flushed the brake fluid out with new stuff and that worked wonders. I now have always have a firm pedal, no more having to pump it.
Once I get the carbs back, I can put them back on the car and hopefully at least drive it around the block. Still a decent ways to go until it is complete but it's getting there, can't wait.
Posted by: R Dub Jun 19 2018, 12:43 PM
Haven't posted in a while cause I haven't touched the car up until yesterday when I drove it for the first time ever which was AWESOME 
Finally got some time so my dad and I got to work on the car. First started out by fixing the one rim that had a slow leak on it. Had to have a shop dismount the tire then take it apart, clean it up and re-silicone it then have it remounted.
Then had to put the carbs back together and put back on the car. Wasn't thrilled with the company I sent them to as they did not do what they said, it took double the amount of time, charged me ~$200 more than quoted and he sent them back in pieces instead of together.
Went to start it only to find out the fuel pump died so had to go buy a new one and spend some time at the hardware store to get the new one plumb like the old one to use the same mounting points, hoses, etc. Once we got all of that figured out, the fuel pump wouldn't turn on with the key for some reason. Will have to look into that more as we are getting 12V to the positive wire and it is grounded. We used a jump box to bypass it and it works so I drove it around the block a couple of times. It was an truly awesome feeling.
Still got a while to go until it is "done" but it's almost road worthy again!
Posted by: rjames Jun 19 2018, 05:03 PM
Haven't posted in a while cause I haven't touched the car up until yesterday when I drove it for the first time ever which was AWESOME
Finally got some time so my dad and I got to work on the car. First started out by fixing the one rim that had a slow leak on it. Had to have a shop dismount the tire then take it apart, clean it up and re-silicone it then have it remounted.
Then had to put the carbs back together and put back on the car. Wasn't thrilled with the company I sent them to as they did not do what they said, it took double the amount of time, charged me ~$200 more than quoted and he sent them back in pieces instead of together.
Went to start it only to find out the fuel pump died so had to go buy a new one and spend some time at the hardware store to get the new one plumb like the old one to use the same mounting points, hoses, etc. Once we got all of that figured out, the fuel pump wouldn't turn on with the key for some reason. Will have to look into that more as we are getting 12V to the positive wire and it is grounded. We used a jump box to bypass it and it works so I drove it around the block a couple of times. It was an truly awesome feeling.
Still got a while to go until it is "done" but it's almost road worthy again!
Fuel pump- check the relay on the relay board in the engine compartment. All the relays are the same so you can swap the existing ones around to find a good one (assuming there's a good one to be found).
Posted by: rhodyguy Jun 19 2018, 05:18 PM
Go to the classic thread forum. The easy method to power your FP is detailed in a thread there. Real easy.
Posted by: R Dub Nov 11 2018, 07:35 PM
Got the fuel pump figured out but found out that oil was leaking out of the push rod tubes and 3 of 4 cylinders had low compression. One was as low as 60 psi. So we pulled the engine out and pulled the heads and cylinders off. Found a few issues. First is a couple of the push rods are bent and the second issue is the cylinders have some scoring on them which we believe to be from rust as the car sat for 20 years. Now a few questions (and sorry for being a total nub):
1) Where can I find new push rods. I've searched Google and all I can find is new push rod tubes, which I'll get as well, but not push rods.
2) Anything I can do to a 2.0L to gain some performance? I'm looking for more bolt on stuff, not looking to machine the block or heads or anything like that. I've read something about a 2056? Is this just bolting on bigger cylinders and pistons while leaving the crank, rods and head all stock?
3) I'm going to replace the alternator belt and some grommets while it's out. Anything else I should replace while the engine is out?
Posted by: Mblizzard Nov 12 2018, 10:19 AM
Got the fuel pump figured out but found out that oil was leaking out of the push rod tubes and 3 of 4 cylinders had low compression. One was as low as 60 psi. So we pulled the engine out and pulled the heads and cylinders off. Found a few issues. First is a couple of the push rods are bent and the second issue is the cylinders have some scoring on them which we believe to be from rust as the car sat for 20 years. Now a few questions (and sorry for being a total nub):
1) Where can I find new push rods. I've searched Google and all I can find is new push rod tubes, which I'll get as well, but not push rods.
2) Anything I can do to a 2.0L to gain some performance? I'm looking for more bolt on stuff, not looking to machine the block or heads or anything like that. I've read something about a 2056? Is this just bolting on bigger cylinders and pistons while leaving the crank, rods and head all stock?
3) I'm going to replace the alternator belt and some grommets while it's out. Anything else I should replace while the engine is out?
You can go the https://aapistons.com/collections/porsche-piston-cylinder-kits/products/vw-porsche-type-4-96mm-piston-and-biral-cylinder-set route for P/Cs for about $400. You will see some improvement but unless the cam has been swapped you wont get the most out of the upgrade.
My suggestion is until you are ready to split the case, fix (hone and new rings) the current P/Cs and change to modern FI. You van tune the modern FI to get eh most out of the existing 2.0 and use most of the existing parts.
Posted by: R Dub Nov 12 2018, 01:49 PM
You can go the https://aapistons.com/collections/porsche-piston-cylinder-kits/products/vw-porsche-type-4-96mm-piston-and-biral-cylinder-set route for P/Cs for about $400. You will see some improvement but unless the cam has been swapped you wont get the most out of the upgrade.
My suggestion is until you are ready to split the case, fix (hone and new rings) the current P/Cs and change to modern FI. You van tune the modern FI to get eh most out of the existing 2.0 and use most of the existing parts.
Thanks for the reply. When I was looking for P/C, it looks like AA Pistons was really the only company out there. Does anyone have any experience with them? Are they a good company? Have a good product?
Does the case have to be split to swap the cam? And what cam is recommended if I were to go with 96MM pistons?
I was told the Weber carbs were put on because the FI of the day was bad (Maybe it's just cause no one knew who to work on FI back then
) Is there a compnay that makes a modern FI for the 914 or is it all stock stuffPosted by: Tdskip Nov 13 2018, 07:27 AM
Good morning. Not to discourage your asking questions on the forum but there is a TON of good info on your inquires available by searching. They are common topics of discussion and you can review other members builds on other FI systems, troubleshooting the original FI and engine build/part recommendations.
Looks like you are making progress, keep pressing on!
Posted by: TheCabinetmaker Nov 13 2018, 11:29 AM
What Td said. Do your search on Google, then add the name of this site.
Posted by: Mblizzard Nov 13 2018, 11:43 AM
You can go the https://aapistons.com/collections/porsche-piston-cylinder-kits/products/vw-porsche-type-4-96mm-piston-and-biral-cylinder-set route for P/Cs for about $400. You will see some improvement but unless the cam has been swapped you wont get the most out of the upgrade.
My suggestion is until you are ready to split the case, fix (hone and new rings) the current P/Cs and change to modern FI. You van tune the modern FI to get eh most out of the existing 2.0 and use most of the existing parts.
Thanks for the reply. When I was looking for P/C, it looks like AA Pistons was really the only company out there. Does anyone have any experience with them? Are they a good company? Have a good product?
Does the case have to be split to swap the cam? And what cam is recommended if I were to go with 96MM pistons?
I was told the Weber carbs were put on because the FI of the day was bad (Maybe it's just cause no one knew who to work on FI back then
) Is there a compnay that makes a modern FI for the 914 or is it all stock stuffYes the case does have to be split to replaced the cam.
There are others P/Cs out the like the Type 4 Store if you want the best, but AA is a reasonable product that is inexpensive. But you do get what you pay for.
The recommended cam will be based on what you want the car to do. For a good overall street car I would go with the Web cam 86. Also understand that just installing the cam is the beginning, there are a number of other things that must be done to get the best performance like making sure your valve train geometry is correct. Too often people install a cam and don't see all of the performance it has due to incorrect valve train geometry. Do a search it will bring up lots of good reading.
When the FI is replace by carbs it is rare that the cam is changed. So I would guess you have a FI cam in the engine.
I think McMark of Original Customs is still making a turn Key Micro Squirt system.
Posted by: bbrock Nov 13 2018, 12:18 PM
And make sure you are settled on your fuel system before you decide on the cam.
I did just as OP mentioned earlier. Got tired of the FI leaving me stranded and wrenching on the car in parking lots and highway shoulders. Didn't have a clue how to properly work on the FI, no Interwebs at the time to teach me how, couldn't afford to have someone else work on it and probably couldn't find a competent mechanic if I did. So I did what all the cool kids were doing and bought a pair of Webers and installed a carb cam. Thirty years later, I still haven't finished the rebuild so the Webers have never been used. I'd kind of like to refurb the stock FI but it isn't worth splitting the case to swap that cam out. So I'll run the Webers and see how I like them and will leave the FI for a future project.
BTW, I really liked my stock 2 liter so went back with OEM 94mm jugs but opted for the higher compression euro spec flat tops just to juice it a little bit.
Posted by: R Dub Nov 13 2018, 04:49 PM
I'm going to keep the car with the dual Webers on it. It is currently setup for it and I know it runs with them, not to mention I just spend a decent amount of money to have them rebuilt.
As far was what my plans are for the car, It is going to a street car. Something to take to work on a nice Friday or out to dinner. It might see a rare track day but I own a sport bike that I track sometimes. So I am looking for the car to have decent performance but needs to be reliable. Since I'm already this far into it, I want to do it right the first time and be done with it so I can enjoy it for many years to come.
Since the motor is already out and this far apart, I will split the case to replace the cam to make sure it is right. I will definitely look into Web cam 86. I will also do some research on the valve train geometry to make sure that is correct. I will be back if I have any questions.
I did see that McMark was selling motors for $5K-$5500, not sure if he still is. I'm very tempted to do that but fear the wife might sign the divorce papers as she wasn't happy that I got the car in the first place. I see the type 4 store has a kit but it's $9K. A little out of budget.
I really appreciate all the help guys.
Posted by: R Dub Jan 9 2019, 07:49 PM
Engine out
http://s582.photobucket.com/user/rwdirtbike/media/1111181044.jpg.html
Got the engine disassembled down to the case for the most part.
https://s582.photobucket.com/user/rwdirtbike/media/0106191107.jpg.html
Noticed that the lifters are bad. One was missing the retainer spring as per the picture below. This just so happens to be the same cylinder that had a bent push rod. Coincidence, I think not.
https://s582.photobucket.com/user/rwdirtbike/media/0106191128.jpg.html
Now I need to buy some parts so I can split the case replace the cam and start the rebuild process. Some questions I was hoping you guys can help with:
1) My dad's cousin (whom I've never met) works on air cool VW for a living. He said to keep the motor at a stock 2.0L. Other than keeping with originality, is their any reason to do this and not increase to a 2056? Cause I can't see one
2) Assuming going with a 2056. I'm thinking about going with Web Cam grind# 86 as I've read that is a good cam to run with carbs. And would then go with hydraulic lifters. Thoughts?
3) Do I need to change out the Cam gear for any reason or can I reuse the old one assuming it is not broke or worn too much?
4) For P&C's, I was thinking about going this route from https://fatperformance-rimco.com/collections/pistons-cylinders/products/t4-96mm-keith-black-design-hypereutectic-piston-cylinder-set. Any one have experience with this?
Any other suggestions or advise?
Posted by: steuspeed Jan 9 2019, 08:05 PM
No reason to stick with 2.0L. Go for more power. I like your P/C choice, but others with more experience will chime in.
Posted by: marksteinhilber Jan 10 2019, 12:05 PM
Looking for some parts advice.
1. Right under the engine hatch there is a black plastic funnel that a house connects to bring water out of the engine bay and under the car. Both the funnel and hose are melted on the drivers side. Any idea where I can get new ones?
2. The car has duel Weber 44 carbs in it. The air filters that were on it looked to have come from a dune buggy as the cover said Claude's Buggies on it. They are oval and measure about 7" long x 4" wide x 3.5" tall. Any idea where I can get new air filters?
Funnels can come from 914rubber, an excellent vendor listed on this site. The air filters for the dual webers are available many places including CB performance, Pierside parts, and other Vdub vendors.
Posted by: mgphoto Jan 10 2019, 05:04 PM
Pull the oil pump, look inside, if the cam gear has rivets it is original FI cam, if there are bolts could be aftermarket carb cam.
Posted by: mgphoto Jan 10 2019, 05:06 PM
Hydraulic lifters, bad...
Posted by: mgphoto Jan 10 2019, 05:21 PM
Got the engine disassembled down to the
Noticed that the lifters are bad. One was missing the retainer spring as per the picture below. This just so happens to be the same cylinder that had a bent push rod. Coincidence, I think not.
Now I need to buy some parts so I can split the case replace the cam and start the rebuild process. Some questions I was hoping you guys can help with:
1) My dad's cousin (whom I've never met) works on air cool VW for a living. He said to keep the motor at a stock 2.0L. Other than keeping with originality, is their any reason to do this and not increase to a 2056? Cause I can't see one
2) Assuming going with a 2056. I'm thinking about going with Web Cam grind# 86 as I've read that is a good cam to run with carbs. And would then go with hydraulic lifters. Thoughts?
3) Do I need to change out the Cam gear for any reason or can I reuse the old one assuming it is not broke or worn too much?
4) For P&C's, I was thinking about going this route from https://fatperformance-rimco.com/collections/pistons-cylinders/products/t4-96mm-keith-black-design-hypereutectic-piston-cylinder-set. Any one have experience with this?
Any other suggestions or advise?
1 motor is no longer stock, if it was then yes leave it stock as in D-Jet
2 check the type iv store for cam types
3 yes, riveted gears need some machine work for use with new cam.
4 these are fine, they might transfer heat a little better then the AAs.
Dump the hydraulic lifters...
Posted by: R Dub Jan 10 2019, 06:39 PM
1 motor is no longer stock, if it was then yes leave it stock as in D-Jet
2 check the type iv store for cam types
3 yes, riveted gears need some machine work for use with new cam.
4 these are fine, they might transfer heat a little better then the AAs.
Dump the hydraulic lifters...
1. Motor and car are very far from stock so not concerned about originality. I'll build a 2056 then.
2. Will do. Thanks
3. Did not know OE cam gears were riveted. I will check that. Thanks for the info. Is so I will get a new cam gear as well.
4. Thanks for input. I appreciate it.
Why are hydraulic lifters bad? What lifters would you go with?
Posted by: mgphoto Jan 11 2019, 01:37 PM
1 motor is no longer stock, if it was then yes leave it stock as in D-Jet
2 check the type iv store for cam types
3 yes, riveted gears need some machine work for use with new cam.
4 these are fine, they might transfer heat a little better then the AAs.
Dump the hydraulic lifters...
1. Motor and car are very far from stock so not concerned about originality. I'll build a 2056 then.
2. Will do. Thanks
3. Did not know OE cam gears were riveted. I will check that. Thanks for the info. Is so I will get a new cam gear as well.
4. Thanks for input. I appreciate it.
Why are hydraulic lifters bad? What lifters would you go with?
I built mine with parkerized solid lifters and hand cut a set of chrome moly push rods.
I also used 911 adjusters.
I keep the D-Jet.
Hydraulic lifters steal horsepower, they can collapse and cause a push rod to bend.
Better for buses than sports cars. They need a hydraulic cam.
Posted by: R Dub Jan 12 2019, 05:19 PM
I built mine with parkerized solid lifters and hand cut a set of chrome moly push rods.
I also used 911 adjusters.
I keep the D-Jet.
Hydraulic lifters steal horsepower, they can collapse and cause a push rod to bend.
Better for buses than sports cars. They need a hydraulic cam.
I understand that hydraulic lifters might rob a bit of power as they can compress compared to a solid lifter. However the lift on the hydraulic cam is a bit larger which should account for some of this no?
I'm more interested in building a reliable street motor than a all out race motor. From my understanding with solids you need to adjust the valves more often and with hydraulic you do not correct? So if I'm looking to go with the "less maintenance" route, isn't hydraulic the way to go?
Now sorry to be a total nub but I've read a lot about people going with "1.7 rockers" and "911 adjusters" and have many questions about this. I've done a lot of searches but haven't found a clear answer
1. Are these rockers with a 1.7:1 ratio or rocker arms off of a 1.7L motor?
2. Do you have to do any machining/anything other parts to install 1.7 rockers into a stock 2.0L head
3. Is there any specific year and engine size 911 that I need adjusters out of?
4. What is the benefits of going with this route?
5. If I do go with hydraulic cam/lifters, is there still a benefit of going with these?
Posted by: bbrock Jan 12 2019, 11:10 PM
There are several threads on the swivel foot adjusters. I think this one should answer most of your questions: except the last one: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=327102&st=0
Posted by: R Dub Jan 13 2019, 04:24 PM
There are several threads on the swivel foot adjusters. I think this one should answer most of your questions: except the last one: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=327102&st=0
Thanks so much for the reply. This does help, not sure why I couldn't find this in my initial search.
It does look like you need to cut the rockers down in order to accept the 911 adjusters. To be honest I don't really like this idea. Also right now I Plan on going with the stock valves, not SS and if this car see 2000 miles a year I would be surprised. Based on what I've read, the stock 10MM adjusters should do the job just fine for my application so I will most likely go that route.
Posted by: R Dub Jan 13 2019, 04:43 PM
Just found this on aircooled.net about the 911 adjusters
"IMPORTANT! Do NOT use these on hydraulic lifter engines, THEY CAN FAIL. These need "valve lash" to give oil the chance to get in there and lubricate, with no clearance they can gall and fail quickly!"
Good to know
Posted by: mgphoto Jan 14 2019, 02:16 PM
My advice is that you should pick up the Wilson VW engine rebuild book.
Build a stock engine with 96mm barrels.
Get a good carb cam, solid lifters and stock push rods.
Your gonna need a machine shop to measure your case, grind valves and make other checks to insure a quality build.
Toss out the 40 year old valves, new stainless will work great.
You don’t need much to make a type iv a little peppier.
It will be a really fun car to drive.
FYI the adjustment schedule is the same for solid lifters and hydraulic.
Elephant feet with chrome moly push rods will produce “0” lash meaning you don’t use a feeler gauge so you only need 2 hands instead of 3, to adjust the valves, but a lot more complicated to build in the first place.
Posted by: R Dub Jan 27 2019, 03:36 PM
Just ordered about $630 worth of seals from 914rubber. Hopefully the car will be all sealed now.
Got to look at the heads just a bit yesterday. Found out the adjuster screw on the rocker is 8MM and not the stock 10MM. Not really sure why though.
https://s582.photobucket.com/user/rwdirtbike/media/0126191245a_HDR.jpg.html
Also not sure if this is a issue or not. Really hoping not cause buying new heads was not in the budget. I'm going to contact a local shop tomorrow to see if they can inspect and rebuild if possible.
http://s582.photobucket.com/user/rwdirtbike/media/0126191214a.jpg.html
https://s582.photobucket.com/user/rwdirtbike/media/0126191308b.jpg.html
Posted by: Bleyseng Jan 27 2019, 04:33 PM
I built mine with parkerized solid lifters and hand cut a set of chrome moly push rods.
I also used 911 adjusters.
I keep the D-Jet.
Hydraulic lifters steal horsepower, they can collapse and cause a push rod to bend.
Better for buses than sports cars. They need a hydraulic cam.
I understand that hydraulic lifters might rob a bit of power as they can compress compared to a solid lifter. However the lift on the hydraulic cam is a bit larger which should account for some of this no?
I'm more interested in building a reliable street motor than a all out race motor. From my understanding with solids you need to adjust the valves more often and with hydraulic you do not correct? So if I'm looking to go with the "less maintenance" route, isn't hydraulic the way to go?
Now sorry to be a total nub but I've read a lot about people going with "1.7 rockers" and "911 adjusters" and have many questions about this. I've done a lot of searches but haven't found a clear answer
1. Are these rockers with a 1.7:1 ratio or rocker arms off of a 1.7L motor?
2. Do you have to do any machining/anything other parts to install 1.7 rockers into a stock 2.0L head
3. Is there any specific year and engine size 911 that I need adjusters out of?
4. What is the benefits of going with this route?
5. If I do go with hydraulic cam/lifters, is there still a benefit of going with these?
Hydraulic lifters wear the cams out as they are always in contact. Solids have the .006 lash so they do have a time no in contact hence better wear. If you ever looked at the high mileage buses and vanagons with hydraulic lifters you would see the cams wiped out. Plus the cam grinds are for buses/vans not a 914. I check adjust the valves once a year when I change the oil. I drive mine maybe 1500-2000 miles per year so I still change the oil and check things.
Posted by: Valy Jan 28 2019, 12:00 AM
That crack needs some head welding.
Sorry for the bad news.
Posted by: R Dub Mar 5 2019, 02:23 PM
Quick update:
The heads are with Adrian at Headflow masters. He called saying they are repairable and will do a complete valve job including new stainless valves, springs, guides and seats. He said the SI valves he uses will work well with the stock adjuster screws. He suggested going with bigger valves, 44x38, since the car is running carbs so that will be getting done as well.
Just ordered 96mm Keith Black piston and cylinders from FAT Performance along with a new 86 grind cam, solid lifters and a new cam gear from Web Cam.
Will be ordering the rest of the stuff such as bearings, gaskets, seals, clutch, push rods, etc very soon. Hope to have all the parts arrive within a couple of weeks so I can start to rebuild. I did pick up the Tom Wilson rebuild book so hopefully it goes fairly smooth. I'll post pics of the new parts and progress as soon as I get them.
Posted by: R Dub Mar 23 2019, 03:29 PM
Starting to get some parts in. I was told the heads would be done Monday or Tuesday so hopefully will get those in soon. I am strongly considering taking the case and all the parts I bought to McMark at Original Customs and just have him tear it down and rebuild it. That way I know it will be done correctly the first time. Also he will know if something doesn't look right and can fix it right away.
Also started to clean up and paint some parts to get those ready. The engine tins (as well as many other parts) are painted the original color of the car, 51P Olympic Blue to pay tribute to what it was originally
http://s582.photobucket.com/user/rwdirtbike/media/Porsche/0318191905.jpg.html
http://s582.photobucket.com/user/rwdirtbike/media/Porsche/0323191602.jpg.html
http://s582.photobucket.com/user/rwdirtbike/media/Porsche/0322191724a.jpg.html
http://s582.photobucket.com/user/rwdirtbike/media/Porsche/0323191501.jpg.html
http://s582.photobucket.com/user/rwdirtbike/media/Porsche/0323191501a.jpg.html
Posted by: R Dub Mar 31 2019, 03:13 PM
Dropped the motor off with McMark at Original Customs today. Happy to know it'll be done correctly. Chomping at the bit to get it back. Will post updates once it's done and back in the car.
Posted by: R Dub Jun 11 2019, 12:17 PM
Got the motor back from McMark a couple weeks ago. This weekend I got around to putting it all together and getting it in the car. Was able to get it started and ran for a bit. Then out of no where it died and couldn't get it to restart.
First thought I had/do have a fuel pump problem. The fuel pump sometimes wouldn't prime but when you wiggle the relay it does. I will buy a new relay in hopes of fixing this but jumped the pump just to get the motor running again. However it wouldn't fire. Upon inspection one carb is not squirting fuel and not sure why, while the other works. I suspect a stuck needle and seat I'll take the carb off the car and tear into to to see if I can see one.
Really kinda bummed cause I thought I would be driving it again this weekend.
Posted by: R Dub Jun 15 2019, 08:53 PM
Update. Put the new relay in and fuel pump seemed to work great. Hopefully that fixed that issue.
Took the carb off and found out that the roll pin came out of the cam and was not lifting the lifter. Therefore as a result it was not squirting fuel. Put a new roll pin in there and it fixed that issue. Then got the car running and pretty well. Adjusted the timing and everything seemed to be running good but then....
Went to turn the car around on the lift so the back was facing the garage door so we could run the car for a while to dial in the carbs. While driving up, the external oil cooler drain bolt hit the lift and cracked the housing and oil started to leak everywhere. Honestly my grandpa had all of the external oil cooler lines run pretty poorly so I will now have to redo all of them. Below is a pic.
Now I Need Help!
1) I need to know where does the oil temp sender wire plugs into under the battery? I looked everywhere and couldn't find it. The wiring is not stock so I'm sure that doesn't help
2) At idle the volts is just under 12 and then when you hit the brakes or turn signal it drops to under 10. Is this normal? If not, what should it be and how do I tell if the alternator is bad or something else? If something else, where to start?
https://ibb.co/37LLyCd
Posted by: R Dub Jun 23 2019, 08:57 PM
Today was a great day. Got the oil cooler lines all fixed and figured out the charging issue. Just forgot to reconnect a plug after we installed the motor. Once we plugged it in, it started charging right away.
650 days from when it got delivered to my parents house in Chicago, I finally got to drive the car home. There are still things to work on like the temp gauge and getting breather hoses hooked up but it drives!! 
https://ibb.co/zh0fFM6
Posted by: R Dub Aug 24 2019, 08:57 PM
Been two months since I brought the car home. I drive it about once a week and so far it has been very reliable and so much fun to drive. Love to see people stare at it, or the the thumbs up or nice care. There are some issues/questions.
Issues
1) I do have oil leaking out of the taco plate, actually quite a bit where I had to put more oil in it. McMark sent me a new seal. I now need to get the copper crush washers for it. I will address this at it's first oil change since all oil will be drained when I remove the taco plate.
2) I have trans fluid seeping out of where the speedo drive goes into the transmission. I have bought the new part from 914 rubber with the 2 o-rings in hopes that will fix this leak. I will address this along with the taco plate.
Questions
1) Should the turn signal automatically turn off after you make a turn? My stalk currently does not.
2) Just recently the parking brake does not hold in the up position. I can pull the lever up and hear it ratchet up but then it doesn't hold at least all the time. Any idea why not?
3) As the trans warms up it gets harder to shift in and out of 4th and out of 5th. Is this a sign of a issues with the trans or is this just a characteristic of these transmission.
Posted by: Larmo63 Aug 25 2019, 06:34 PM
Your turn signal switch is probably broken or worn out, or the cancelling plate on the back of the steering wheel isn't in the right attitude.
You probably need to adjust the e-brake cables, and easy job.
The rear rotors might need to be adjusted/re-vented, a little trickier.
Your car looks SICK!!!!!
Posted by: R Dub Oct 22 2019, 05:24 PM
Unfortunately the car has been put away for the winter 
My plans over this winter are to fix up the interior. Redo the seats & center console. Fix both windows and they are stuck. Adjust the windows for proper sealing as they leak badly even with new seals. Upgrade stereo and lights, etc. I'll keep this updated on that process.
However now I got a question for you guys.
When I put it up on the lift to store, was looking underneath the motor and see a lot of oil leaking out. It appears to be leaking from a couple of the push rod tubes, valve covers and taco place. The motor was just rebuilt by McMark with all brand new Victor Reinz seals (expect for the sender grommet coming out of the taco plate which has been ordered from 914rubber). Are these motors known for leaking out of the push tubes and valve covers? Is there anything tricks or tips to prevent the leaks?
Posted by: R Dub Dec 24 2019, 12:43 PM
Got the interior torn apart. Now I need some help so please educate me. I was going to send my gauges off to @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=8154 to get LED's put into them. Do the LED's plug directly into where the old light bulb plugged into? If not what do I do with the old light bulbs?
Here is a couple of pics
https://ibb.co/N1VZJKC
https://ibb.co/qpPVZF6
https://ibb.co/DLLxq1V
Posted by: timothy_nd28 Dec 30 2019, 01:00 PM
Yes, the old light bulbs are not used anymore when you do my LED conversion. Each gauge has its own LED strip, and a connector at the rear of the gauge. A small wiring harness connects each gauge together, which leads back to a hidden controller. I did a few write ups for people that want to do this themselves.
I've been out of the game for a few years, and wow how these RGB LED's have changed! In addition to that, this forum has also changed. I received a PM from a member, and it had a embedded picture! When did that happen? lol
Trying to keep up with these new style LED's, I'm experimenting with RGB+CCT LED's on another members car. This new LED has the original RGB function, but with two extra white LED's. Consequently going from 4 wire to 6 wire LEDs, which changes my setup quite a bit.
Posted by: R Dub Jan 15 2020, 06:18 PM
Quick update. The interior is at the shop. Seats, dash, arm rest, center console and arm rest are getting wrapped in leather with blue stitching. Will post pictures once it get it back.
Researching head unit, speakers, sub and amp now. Hope to get those purchased soon.
Was going to send my gauges to @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=8154 but he is experimenting with a new setup and wasn't taking on more work until he perfected that. I wasn't real sure I wanted to open up the gauges or splice into the wiring so I ordered the LED bulbs from carmagic.us. The package just arrived today. The shipping speed and communication was top notch!! Will post pics once it's all back together
https://ibb.co/wWvQ9kY
Posted by: R Dub Jan 18 2020, 02:31 PM
Just picked this up from the interior guy today. Think it turned out well. Now time to put a sub in it. Can't wait for the rest of the pieces to get done.
https://ibb.co/v1Td4QY
Posted by: R Dub Jan 25 2020, 03:48 PM
Had some goodies arrive. Got a new Bluetooth head unit, subwoofer and the brake, rear turn signals and reverse LEDs from Spoke. Hope to start installing them soon. Will post pictures once installed.
https://ibb.co/72CJLb3
https://ibb.co/8mt6x7q
https://ibb.co/3T7Dp1h
https://ibb.co/BgcYH8q
Posted by: R Dub Jan 26 2020, 07:58 PM
Got to spend some time on the car today. Got the LEDs from Spoke installed and wow what a difference. Very happy I went with them. Also installed the LED headlights from 914Rubber and those look to be great as well. Then cut the center console and put in the sub. Hope to hook up all and everything next weekend. It's slowly coming together.
https://ibb.co/TLxxK80
https://ibb.co/6F8fSGp
https://ibb.co/RhKzFjG
https://ibb.co/hKRF87x
https://ibb.co/8KFJWSY
https://ibb.co/YfSjJgr
Posted by: R Dub Feb 1 2020, 11:41 AM
Dash is done. And here a little teaser if the seats. This is going to look amazing
https://ibb.co/1qjGK71
https://ibb.co/3Y4JkW6
Posted by: R Dub Feb 28 2020, 09:43 PM
Seats are done. What a difference. Start to put the interior back together tomorrow
https://ibb.co/QXNFXL9
Posted by: R Dub Apr 26 2020, 08:46 AM
Good news and bad news.
Good news is got the interior all done. The seats, dash, center stack, console, arm rest, back pad and (914rubber)speaker pods are all covered in new leather and what a difference it has made. Stereo sounds so much better, no concert hall by any means but 1000x better than stock. The sub adds just enough thump without overpowering or rattling the car apart.
https://ibb.co/25w5BQW
https://ibb.co/gRvh9qN
https://ibb.co/1qJdB34
https://ibb.co/DM2tv2M
Now time for the bad news.
The car will not start. Determined it does not have spark. I has a Crane Cams XR700 ignition on it that is about 30 years old. It has power to the coil. it has power to the module and all grounds are good, clean and tight. My dad seems to think the optical pickup went bad so I bought a new XR700 ignition praying that fixes it. If you have any other thoughts please let me know.
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