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Posted by: burton73 Dec 26 2017, 04:58 PM

I found on my 6 that had sat for 25 years that the gas had turned to Jelly in the fuel pump and carbs. The gas in the gas tank was pourable not jelly.

I have no idea where to start on this 1970 1.7 that sat in a hot garage in The San Fernando Valley of Los Angeles

No battery in it.

I do have the key. I looked on the search and could not find anything but I may be asking wrong because I thought before I had read someone said to put oil in the cylinders and let then soak a while. Why that makes sense on a water-cooled V-engine I do not see how that would get any oil on the top of the side aimed up.

What do you guys think?

Thanks for your help.

Bob B

Posted by: cal44 Dec 26 2017, 05:17 PM

Bob,
pull the plugs. Put in, ohh gosh, there are so many products on the shelves. Anything from regular oil, Marvel Mystery oil, Lucas oil additive....and the list goes on. Yes, I get what you are writing about concerning the upper section of the cylinder/rings.

Keep in mind that a V8 has the same issue, the upper rings/cylinder wall doesn't get oiled either when the plugs are pulled and oil added unless you flood with oil then draw it out with a suction device thru the spark plug hole.

An inline engine of course is a different story. The last one we did was a '66 Bronco Roadster that sat in Wickenburg Az for twenty years. But, that was a piece of cake as they only came with an inline six on the early models.

Once the oil in in and all plugs are out, pull the coil wire and crank it over, let set, crank again. Let set for a couple hours, repeat.

We use Kano Labs. Their product is Kreen and will clean the bjesus out of the crankcase and pour in the gasoline. Sound like the fuel system needs a good removal and scrubbing.

I just did a tank removal, don't forget to check the screen at the bottom.

mike in Encinitas

Posted by: burton73 Dec 26 2017, 05:31 PM

I spent a week in Wickenburg AZ when my middle daughter was in Rehab there. That is one hot town. Nothing to do there but sweat in the hotel where the AC is not enough for the 120 degrees days.

What to do with the trans, oil in Eng? What to do with the fuel injection?


Bob B

Posted by: 914Sixer Dec 26 2017, 05:42 PM

All new hoses on the fuel injection and vacuum lines. Check fuel hoses from firewall back. Do the rest of the stuff Mike mentioned.

Posted by: mepstein Dec 26 2017, 05:44 PM

Send the injectors to mr injector. $17.50 each and they look and work like new. Flow sheet before and after. If they are broken, there’s no charge. Quick turn around. Ive sent him at least 100 injectors so far. Always pleased.

Posted by: burton73 Dec 26 2017, 11:39 PM

What do I do with the fuel lines going to the fuel pump? Put in Stainless Steel units? Ck the fuel pump. Are there no ½ measures? I guess I will be all in.

What are the chance’s some one would want a 1970 4 to go to a 6 conversation?

Maybe make a mostly original yellow 4 -1.7 Rat Rod?

I got a very nice tan interior from Garold.

Bob B

Posted by: 914Sixer Dec 27 2017, 08:10 AM

Fuel lines usually are not bad through tunnel. From the firewall out is the problem. Yes, the lines at the pump too.

Posted by: krazykonrad Dec 28 2017, 05:35 PM

Don't try to start it. Anything that has been sitting that long needs a full tear-down. Starting it now proves nothing and risks some major $$$ damage to the internals.

My $0.02

Konrad

Posted by: RoadGlue Dec 28 2017, 05:59 PM

(mostly)

If valves are stuck open, then that's going to cause all sorts of problems. If you're a gambling man, then go for it and just realize you might set yourself back time and money.

The push rod tube seals are likely shot, as are the main seal, etc etc. It's going to leak oil.

If you're a gambling man and the motor doesn't really matter, then go for it. That's what my younger self would have done as long as I had other motor plans. There's something fun in seeing if you can get old iron to work.

Posted by: relentless Dec 29 2017, 08:33 PM

If you are worried about top end lube, you can curve a plastic straw that fits on a pressurized can using a heat gun. Once you have the straw curved to your liking, you can spray through the plug hole and get some lube on the upper half of the piston/cylinder.

Posted by: Larmo63 Dec 29 2017, 11:03 PM

I'll take that car......

Posted by: mark04usa Dec 30 2017, 12:03 AM

Looks like a nice early car....and with rain tray, early rear bumper, etc. Would be good to service the brakes before you get it started. So much temptation to drive...possibly before it is safe to do so Hope its a good upfixer for you

Posted by: Rand Dec 30 2017, 12:28 AM

Getting the bad gas out and putting some fresh in is the obvious first. Don't let people tell you to tear it all apart before trying it. That's on the extreme end that we don't follow. Really? I don't think I could resist trying to fire it after just fresh fuel and oil! You'll have some more work to do before driving it, but get it to fire to light yours! Fire it! Replace all the rubber before you drive it, stay safe. But keep"younger man' alive. It's not really that hard.

Posted by: bdstone914 Dec 30 2017, 08:40 AM

No need to tear down a motor needlessly. Do what others said. Maybe a compression test. Not uncommon o have a valve or valve seat rusted that sat open. New lines and engine oil. See if you can spin it with the plugs out to get the oil pressure light to go out.
Maybe a compression test. If it hads oil and fuel pressure and no bad noises try to start it.
I have a lot of 1.7L injectors it you want a set to send out. My experience is send out 12 . Some will be dead. Match the best 4 out of the working ones. I have seen cars like this start up and run with just fresh gas. I once had a 2.0 that had so much rust in the tank that is had 2 inches of rust sludge in the bottom. I still started and ran. Died from fuel starvation.

Posted by: Perry Kiehl Dec 30 2017, 09:34 AM

I'd probably pull the engine so I could replace all the seals, and with the engine on a stand you can turn the cylinders vertical to get some Marvel Mystery Oil down the barrels.

Pulling the engine will also make it easier to replace the fuel lines and get the injectors out for service.

Posted by: 914forme Dec 30 2017, 10:23 AM

Don't forget about the brakes, they will most likely be stuck so full rebuilds. Send them to PMB drain all the fluid, don't forget the master cylinder. Most of the time the pads are stuck to the rotors also.

So I take a punch and hammer and drive them out, before you try to move it. Once you get the pads out it becomes so much easier to move about. BTDT

Posted by: burton73 Dec 30 2017, 12:48 PM

The brakes where stuck. We filled the 4 tires with air and rocked the car and they unstuck. The pedal was good and the brakes worked. Pushed them and the car stopped and did not seem stuck.

Pictures show the hole to the car in the area where the battery must have moved to the back of car and dropped acid. An odd spot and the rest of the lower areas look OK. I poked in the area where the holes are normally. When I stand close to the car and look in Eng. compartment I can see my shoe.
The tray and support is trash but I do not see any more holes on 2nd look.
Right door does not stay closed but all the gaps on the car look great. Driver’s window in down and does not roll up.


The front bumper needs a little love. But if I go rat rod that may be OK. My problem is I like everything perfect on my cars or I see it right away. A blessing or a curse. Not sure. I have none QC for 40 plus years in my biz so a carful critical eye has been important.

Bob B

Posted by: Perry Kiehl Dec 30 2017, 12:52 PM

Typical battery rust through, there's probably more corrosion below the battery area. The good thing is there's metal panels made to fix all of that.