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Posted by: 72 IXXIV Jan 6 2018, 09:47 PM

I have a side shift conversion in my '72 and I want to make a little boot for where the linkage comes out of the firewall.

Anyone have any good ideas for making a custom boot that does NOT require removing the linkage rod? I'm not looking for anything that's airtight or anything, just to keep splashing water from going into my center tunnel.

Any thoughts?

Posted by: Specracer Jan 7 2018, 07:15 AM

Maybe a split CV joint boot? Obviously the tough part is the width of the joint side of the boot.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-help-c.v.-joint-bolted-split-boot-kit-front-outer-03613/20830074-P?searchTerm=split+cv+boot

Posted by: Mark Henry Jan 7 2018, 08:17 AM

VW boot is likely too big, maybe try an ATV CV split boot.

Posted by: 72 IXXIV Jan 7 2018, 11:31 AM

The split C.V. boot is a good idea, but the flange on my tail shifter firewall is a large rectangle—bigger in diameter than a C.V. joint.

I’ll go measure the diameter...

Posted by: sixnotfour Jan 7 2018, 12:43 PM

here is the factory cover..


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Posted by: Mikey914 Jan 7 2018, 05:12 PM

Ive got the rubber working on the plastic.
Mark

Posted by: 72 IXXIV Jan 7 2018, 05:26 PM

Are you sure that's not the sideshifter cover?

Posted by: euro911 Jan 7 2018, 05:34 PM

The pic above is for the tail shifter assembly

Posted by: sixnotfour Jan 7 2018, 05:46 PM

at the firewall

Posted by: euro911 Jan 7 2018, 07:46 PM

Of course

Posted by: UROpartsman Jan 10 2018, 06:55 PM

That's actually a photo of the URO reproduction of the factory pieces, it's a nice kit (p/n 914424501K).


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Posted by: gothspeed Jan 10 2018, 07:13 PM

So is this for tail shifter or side shifter?

Does this fit the firewall or gearbox?

Posted by: yeahmag Jan 10 2018, 09:19 PM

That’s for a tail shift. Side shift uses a rubber bellows at the firewall.

Posted by: JamesM Jan 10 2018, 10:55 PM

All due respect but the only posts I have seen you make since joining this board have been specifically for self promotion which is somewhat frowned upon around here outside of the vendor forums.

I do very much appreciate the fact that you attempt to supply parts for our old cars however I think you might find this community more receptive if you interacted with us in ways other than spamming threads to gain free advertising. Perhaps having a dialog with us around our needs and/or improving your offerings.

Case and point, last year I purchased a pair of URO brand air box straps for my 924 turbo. They did not last 4 months before the rubber basically dissolved. Had a similar experience with URO brand control arm bushings for my e36 BMW. What is your expected lifetime for these parts and do you stand behind them in any way? Replacing the same parts again and again on a Porsche or BMW every 3 months starts to get old so maybe post about ways you are working to improve your product/changing the compounds you are using and let us know when that is done? Interactions like that might go a long way to improving your image around these parts.

Lots of things you could be posting about that would increase your business that go beyond just pointing out what you have available for sale every chance you get.

Posted by: porschetub Jan 10 2018, 11:51 PM

Appears they are working on it ,it appears their return is around "0"on 914 ignition switches @ least ,really do they care about the other stuff????.
I'am not flaming URO man for no reason as I have been the victim of these rubbish parts.

Posted by: GeorgeRud Jan 11 2018, 01:11 PM

I appreciate anyone making reproduction parts for our cars, but a certain degree of quality and originality is also required. Even Chinese made parts can be produced successfully if the quality specifications are rigid enough.

Posted by: UROpartsman Jan 11 2018, 05:00 PM

^ You're exactly right George, and thanks for the feedback everyone.

Like other companies that offer a wide range of parts (such as Dorman), each of our items comes from a different production line that specializes in that particular type of part, so there can be significant differences from one part to another. Companies that specialize in just one or two types of parts (such as Moog or Lemforder) have an advantage in this area, as they can completely devote themselves to perfecting their specialty. The downside is they don't have the flexibility to address the needs of small markets. Which business model is better? The answer depends on the needs of each individual customer.

Even after a business chooses which model to use, it has to decide how to position itself. Economy, mid-range or top-of-the-line? URO started out as an economy brand, but now offers parts across the entire spectrum under the same brand name, which unfortunately creates some confusion. There are significant differences between our exclusive components that we design from scratch and and have full manufacturing control (such as the 914-6 Engine Mount and this Shift Rod Cover Kit ), vs parts that are sourced from existing factories. Sometimes it doesn't make sense to reinvent the wheel if the tooling cost is too high, and it's better to find the best source available at your target price point. The downside is you give up control over how the product is manufactured. You can periodically test the materials and dimensions of the final product, but unless you test 100% of production (which isn't realistic), problems can arise and slip through. And if it's an inexpensive item, you might not hear about a problem for quite awhile and end up with unhappy customers who naturally assume even your top-quality parts aren't any good. This inconsistency is one of the big issues we're working to resolve, and it's a slow process.


The engineering department was given a copy of your post this morning James, and will be closely reviewing these items. We'll contact you via PM to get more details and discuss how we can make it right with you.

Our standard warranty is two years (unlimited mileage), and even our economy items should certainly last longer than two years. We offer a lifetime warranty on URO Premium items, which are solutions to the failure of common OE components such as water pump pulleys for BMW (aluminum instead of plastic), sun visor pivots/mounts for 911 (aluminum instead of plastic), push-rod ball cups for Boxster convertible top actuators (metal instead of plastic), etc.

Posted by: worn Jan 11 2018, 05:27 PM

At the risk of further thread hijack, the unlimited mileage thing is about as valuable to me as mileage on my tires. I just won’t get there. The years on the other hand. May not be around to claim them, but it is nice to have that going for me. Good replies. I would rather have you an ally than a chump. Still, my son who simply works on old cars has heard of uro, and unfortunately not in a good way. So a bit uphill yet to go.

Posted by: bandjoey Jan 11 2018, 05:36 PM

Back on Track... Side Shift Parts



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Posted by: Racer Chris Jan 12 2018, 07:41 AM

[shamelessselfpromotion]
If you had installed my firewall bearing instead of the conversion bushing the stock sideshift boot would fit your car.[/shamelessselfpromotion]

Posted by: euro911 Jan 13 2018, 12:51 AM

A PO had hacked up my '75 and riveted (with 26 rivets) an early shift console to the firewall and installed a tail-shifter transaxle. I removed the console and found that the orifice in the firewall had been enlarged to the point that a standard size shift rod bushing wouldn't work.

I installed an aluminum plate on the firewall to remedy that issue and purchased one of Chris' spherical shift rod bearings





In my case, since the plate was thicker than the indentation in the firewall, it caused the shift rod's coupler to hit the bearing in 1st., 3rd. and 5th. gears. I modified one end of the bearings' housing a bit (turned down about 3/8' of it) and recessed it into the plate, thus allowing full rod travel.




It all worked out great though, and the OEM shift coupler [side-shifter] boot fits over the bearing too

Posted by: sixnotfour Jan 13 2018, 05:06 AM

rotate tail shift boot 180 degrees and walla..


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Posted by: euro911 Jan 13 2018, 01:06 PM

Hmmm ... that's an interesting thought - and worth a try

Posted by: theer Jan 13 2018, 01:09 PM

But there is a little more to it than that. The flange intended for the late boot on the end of the side-shift linkage bar will need to be cut off to fit through the flipped early cover. Then use the early boot. Not hard, but would be best to remove the linkage bar (also not difficult).

Posted by: UROpartsman Jan 16 2018, 01:37 PM

^ Exactly right, the thin metal flange on the rod (#27) must be cut off with a wheel or hacksaw, then ground smooth and painted for a clean appearance.


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Posted by: Mikey914 Jan 16 2018, 05:27 PM

So just curious how many bars have you (URO parts guy) actuality modified in this manner?

Posted by: UROpartsman Jan 16 2018, 06:21 PM

We've been involved with four total. We've done this conversion to the 914 we use for product development, and three friends have also done it to their cars.

Here's a great relevant write-up from Jameel, begin reading at post #56: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=278593&st=40

Posted by: Mikey914 Jan 16 2018, 08:45 PM

What I'm getting at is that a little more than just cutting the flange off make the conversion work here.

Posted by: Mikey914 Jan 16 2018, 10:54 PM

Also interesting is that the parts that went on to Jameels' are not URO they are 914Rubber's. He even credits us in the thread

Posted by: UROpartsman Jan 17 2018, 12:17 PM

Certainly there's a lot more involved in performing a complete sideshift conversion, but the OP is only asking about the boot at the firewall in this thread.


No one on this thread mentioned the brand of boot Jameel used until now. As you said, it's definitely not a URO boot.

Since we're now discussing the boot, here's what an OEM boot from the dealer looks like, note the bellows profile.



Pay particular attention to the necked lip on the small end, and the lip inside the large end. The lip on the large end snaps over a flared neck on the plastic cover, for secure attachment. This rear lip cracking off the boot is how it usually fails, resulting in the bellows detaching from the cover.



Here's our bellows, which has the same profile and attachment lips as OEM.






Here's a quote from Jameel regarding the longer than OE bellows he used (http://shop.914rubber.com/images/Early%20Shifter%20Bellows%20B.jpg), and what he had to do to make it work (http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=278593&view=findpost&p=2344549) since the bellows he used didn't have a rear lip:

Posted by: euro911 Jan 17 2018, 01:33 PM

No dog in the fight, but someone appears to have missed Jameel's post # 56

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=278593&view=findpost&p=2344549

Posted by: Retroracer Jan 17 2018, 01:40 PM

One of the old issues of "Upfixin' Der Porsche" has an article detailing how a bracket can be constructed from Aluminum sheet to cover the area AND allow use of the one of the side shift (I believe) boots. Basic metal working skills needed, but pretty straightforward stuff. I made one up to the dimensions described and it worked well. I used the PMS linkage when I converted to the -6 engine and had to clearance it a little, but still OK in principle.

Am at work, so can provide more details (and photos) if there is interest later today,

- Tony

Posted by: Mikey914 Jan 17 2018, 02:19 PM

What I was actually trying to highlight, is that the shift bar can't just be traded out. The engine mounting bracket has diferent allignment between transmissions. If you swap both yes you can do this. However, you will not want to dig into this project without both in hand. By the way I will be launching a GB on all the boots, bellows and plastic parts at pricing you can't get anywhere else! Look for this the 25th.

Posted by: cary Feb 4 2018, 07:55 AM

No shame, Nice and tidy. I was thinking I'd need a new boot for it to stay in place.
Not. Mike and I took TOO much time dialing in his linkage and it never slipped off.
Kudo's.