Take a newbie to school here if you would, I've got it set of pads that are in decent condition but I'm not sure if there are better options available...
Thanks!
Most people take that out of the car. I did, but I like the sound of a 911 engine.
I'm weird like that.
There also known to trap water and cause rust issues. I would not glue it, so you can remove it and clean it occasionally.
Mark - When are those going to be available?
we like the sound deadening pads, they make a huge difference. The original ones deteriorated and held water so many a back wall was rusted by now. Years ago we are up with a solution, water proof dynamat die cut for a perfect fit and perfect look. It easily glues on to the back wall, and you can still use the clips, has superior sound insulation and, again, it totally waterproof!!!!!!!!
George,
Does it have a stickem back as my v8 car does not have clips?
Bob B
On my 3.2L conversion, the sound deadening is on the interior side of the bulkhead because of the Dzus fastened access door for the fan.
My LE has one more like the one shown in post #2 that won't hold water.
Thanks for the discussion and education.
Get the one from Mikey!
We are using a felt like factory. It’s then treated to repel water and we bond a rubber backing to it to look like OEM. We have also backed the exposed side to make easier to glue (and use less). I had been waiting to try Velcro 1st.
I’ve had 3 people that have dropped by the shop and literally bought these before we listed them. We will do a group buy at $105 each. I’ll do up an official GB post.
Mark
I found another used oem "sound pad". The one that is on the inside of cabin. It is pefecly shaped for all the curbes. I trimmed it to fit the engine compartment side and used 3M spray adhesive to hold it.
My pad is surprisingly in good shape considering all the rust that was on the rest of the car. I was thinking about spraying the uncoated side with flex seal and reinstalling it. Haven't gotten any farther than the idea though.
Even waterproof, water can still get trapped behind them.
Very true. Velcro or another method would be best. As for the interior pad behind the back pad. Most are in pretty good shape, but they are really heavy. I will get teh weight posted up on these in the morning.
Really the best way to dry out is to remove. If it's easily done, then you can inspect for rust and reinstall as required.
It seems the common place for upper firewall rust is the lower outside corners. Even my old rust bucket had a pristine firewall under the sound mat except those corners. If you think about it, that's the area where water absorbed by the felt would migrate and stay wet the longest. It seems waterproofing the back of those pads would be a great first step. I like the Velcro idea because if you orient the strips vertically, you would also be creating an air gap to keep moisture from getting trapped. The alternative would be to glue and seam seal around the edges but then you wouldn't be able to periodically inspect.
Deleting the sound mat is not an option for me. Even if my car was electric, I'd still be looking for ways to make it quieter.
Yes. lowest point is the issue with most cars. My car didn't come with one, but I will add, using velcro co I can easily remove should I choose so.
Mark
My latest car came to me with solid hell holes and and worn out battery tray. We welded in new battery tray parts. The firewall behind the driver's seat had wormholes, so we removed that section and stitched in a new piece from another firewall. I've seen rust issues there enough to know that I'm skeptical of putting something back in there again.
I usually drive alone (I'm an asshole ) in my car, so a radio isn't in it and/or conversation doesn't occur very often.
I do wonder at times what this car might be like a little quieter inside. I guess I'm just used to that singing /6 now?
Mine are die cut.
As far as water absorption goes - The idea is it will not hold water against the metal if it's not absorbed. The real issue becomes drainage and how much water is in the engine bay and why. With a 6 it's pretty obvious, but remember The problem is more a matter of continued exposure. I do make both rain trays.
68 oz with velcro. Nominal 5/8" uncompressed. Slightly thinner than OEM.
I just did the install. Went pretty easily. I'll be posting up another dreadded GB with the insatll tonight late. I have some shipping to help out with today. Mine was naked, but I will remove for Cary to patch the holes I have, Should easily go back in. I used enoough t hold it but didn't go crazy 20" of velcro. I can also include 24" strips with this.
I think you will like
Other thread is up
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=323628
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Crappy phone camera, I'll get better pics tomorrow. This on is ok to give you a better idea of how it looks.
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Question: Do you make the NLA large plastic disc fastener (Part # 914 559 377 10) that helps fasten the pad to the firewall? Those usually break when removing the pad so it would be nice to have replacements.
You can get them at napa, almost identical to the factory original ones. Part number is 665-3116
Thanks,
I'll pick up a box or two and throw these in with the new pads.
Mark
This Dynamat firewall insulation pad almost exactly matches the late 75 76 material and provides superior sound insulation, heat insulation and is waterproof. Die cut and easily installed with trim adhesive. We also include the factory look clips
I am curious if one were to put something like dyna mat in the cabin would the engine compartment insulation be required?
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