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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Teen 914 build

Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 10 2018, 12:40 AM

I purchased two 73 914’s, for 3200 total. Great price, i believe but both cars are beautiful fust buckets. Tons of laborious work ahead. Here’s original photos from about 2 months ago beerchug.gif


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 10 2018, 12:42 AM

This too


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 10 2018, 12:43 AM

Not a fan of mice!!!!


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 10 2018, 12:46 AM

30+ years of sitting outside in CT weather. And this is the other one I purchased, the outside doesnt look too chabby, but the inside floor pans everywhere is totally rotted out. What a shame


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 10 2018, 12:48 AM

Now, into the damage ive been working with wink.gif


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 10 2018, 12:49 AM

:-)


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 10 2018, 12:51 AM

Some parts


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 10 2018, 12:54 AM

So far did a few things, like refurbishment of parts. No body work yet sadly. Im taking my time to do my best possible


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 10 2018, 12:55 AM

Example


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 10 2018, 12:56 AM

Also these i did with truck bed liner, it gives it a great texture in my opinion


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Posted by: sb914 Feb 10 2018, 05:50 AM

welcome.png and looks like you got a lot of work "cut out" for you.
You came to the right place.

Posted by: Philip W. Feb 10 2018, 06:15 AM

yikes! headbang.gif thats a lot of rust! i hope you have mad welding skills or deap pockets- no doubt it is a labor of love but surely you could have paid less for something in better shape than that maybe? as we used to say in Mn - Ufta!

well dont let me discourage you, though they have been worth saving now thst values continue to climb, what i should have said first is
welcome.png
and keep. posting the updates we love to see the progress! i hope you do it faster than i did !

happy smash.gif welder.gif sawzall-smiley.gif

Posted by: Andyrew Feb 10 2018, 08:27 AM

If you havent already, buy a Mig welder, run .030 wire and 75/25 gas. You have your work cut out for you but its doable. Congrats on the purchase! Start with the best chassis and work from there.

Posted by: 914-300Hemi Feb 10 2018, 08:31 AM

welcome.png

You came to the right place for encouragement and advise. Good luck on the journey and welcome to the addiction.


Posted by: jd74914 Feb 10 2018, 09:41 AM

Hi from another CT guy whose first car was also a 914 (with potentially more rust even)! I got mine at 14, drove it for the first time around 19 after full restoration, stopped driving at 24 for some modifications, and now am 30 and trying to finish them up after life got in the way. laugh.gif

That looks like a fun project and an especially good way to learn how to weld. It'll be interesting to see some pictures with better light. I'm from around Manchester, but often find myself on your side of the river, shoot me a PM if you ever want to meet up or need some help/parts. We've cut up some cars and have a good amount of small parts plus some larger ones. smile.gif

Posted by: mepstein Feb 10 2018, 09:54 AM

$3200 should have gotten you a lot more car with a lot less rust. Good luck with the build.

Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 10 2018, 11:52 AM

Thank you everyone!! Any input is appreciated, and i got both cars for this price, as well as many extra parts like an extra set of calipers. I dont know how to weld, so this is how i will learn i guess!! And i will definitely go with an MIG and the specifications that was suggested

Posted by: Mikey914 Feb 10 2018, 12:39 PM

Welcome to 914 world.
My son Taylor is currently working on his that has /had damage on the bulkhead from rat urine. You may want to look at his thread to so see what corrosion he had and where to look for rust. His was extensive, and we are doing a full rotisserie restoration, but I do believe the rust would be in the same places.

Good news is there are plenty of bulkheads around as it's not a common area for rust.

www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=298851&hl=taylors+wes


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Posted by: burton73 Feb 10 2018, 06:39 PM

Way to go for 18. The silver car may have factory Fuchs in 6. I cannot tell by the picture but if deep 6 with harts you may have $2,500 worth of wheels. I bought a car 7 years ago for a 930 Porsche trans and it came with a non-rusted body and 3 Deep 6s with Harts Fuchs and one regular Fuchs 6 no hart. Sold the 3 harts for $1,500. And their prices have gone way up. So the guys here will help you find out what you have on their if you get good pictures of front and back.

You may get some money to help you get more of what you need to fix your cars.
These cars have taken a huge price increase in the last 8 years and still moving up fast right now.

Welcome to the world and ask for help to the board.

Bob B
welcome.png bye1.gif

Posted by: forrestkhaag Feb 10 2018, 07:55 PM

I am impressed with this kids ability to see gold where some only see rust. He can have this depth of perspective because he has 50 years jump on some of us ...me.. He has plenty of time to learn how to weld starting on a 110 wire feed then on to gas tig or mig. I gave my son a tiny used Lincoln wire feed at his tenth birthday party. He is now a master welder - not on 110

My suggestion is for him to ask on the boards here for free or nearly free extras and spares to help your build.

By way of example, when euro911 wisely downsized and packed up his toys headed to Arizona he had piles of priceless (unsellable) parts that are useless to his projects and cost to move and to have to store for another three decades. He has offered those parts up for free or a greatly discounted values to help others less fortunate. Further,

Larmo has a collection of parts and pieces that baffle his team of psychiatic specialists as to why he covets these things and hoards the 914 jewels in his garage ......stored in Ball Jars and carefully organized hermetically sealed containers / knowing that his beautiful 914 6 is almost nearing the third of twelve phases of "completion".

Kieth, on the other hand, has the presence of mind to catalogue what he needs and sell or donate the rest. Most of his hoarding is in the mental knowledge amassed in his engineers brain. The key....... to unlocking the vault of Keith's Porsche experience from 911 racing experience to 914 rebuilds.... is temporarily misplaced. But will be found when a solution to a 914 technical problem arises. This kid could ask any of us for direction on a 914 problem. Unfortunately, this poor kid will get 9 different solutions to the same problem. But there are solutions.

These World guys are resources that we did not have in 1973 when I bought my first 914.

This kid does have World resources. Let's support the young kids that have the courage to jump in to a rust oration. beerchug.gif




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Posted by: Montreal914 Feb 10 2018, 09:21 PM

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Loads of help on this forum. first.gif Make sure you post many pictures as qualified people will give advice.

You definitely need to investigate and post pictures of the silver car wheels, brakes, and
suspension setup. There might be some nice components behind (914-6?). idea.gif

Watch the classified as you could get a solid tub from the dry west coast that could save you a lot of work and money. Otherwise, Restoration Design is your friend.

Good luck with your project smash.gif

Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 10 2018, 09:57 PM

QUOTE(burton73 @ Feb 10 2018, 07:39 PM) *

Way to go for 18. The silver car may have factory Fuchs in 6. I cannot tell by the picture but if deep 6 with harts you may have $2,500 worth of wheels. I bought a car 7 years ago for a 930 Porsche trans and it came with a non-rusted body and 3 Deep 6s with Harts Fuchs and one regular Fuchs 6 no hart. Sold the 3 harts for $1,500. And their prices have gone way up. So the guys here will help you find out what you have on their if you get good pictures of front and back.

You may get some money to help you get more of what you need to fix your cars.
These cars have taken a huge price increase in the last 8 years and still moving up fast right now.

Welcome to the world and ask for help to the board.

Bob B
welcome.png bye1.gif


Thank you so much, and yes they are original, thank god. I am soooo excited to get them refurbished with the black and gold theme i have planned for the 914!!

Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 10 2018, 10:01 PM

It was extremely humid and uncomfortable outside today, so instead i made grill mesh and formed it to the air duct intake. Would anyone advise me to run this air to the rotors, or run it to the motor, or oil cooler, ect. Any response is very appreciated!!!!


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 10 2018, 10:02 PM

Also, i am IN LOVE with the isma front bumper piratenanner.gif


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Posted by: burton73 Feb 10 2018, 10:15 PM

QUOTE(camgraves3113 @ Feb 10 2018, 08:02 PM) *

Also, i am IN LOVE with the isma front bumper piratenanner.gif



Very cool. Did you dad teach you how not to be afraid to work on cars? My dad could not turn a screwdriver.

Have you bought a welder and auto shield yet?

If you are thinking of venting the front brakes, not sure that you will need it innless you are going to be doing high-speed racing.

You should share your vision of these cars. We would love to hear it and may have some tips for you. Our members are really in the know on these little VW-Porsches.

Regards,

Bob B

Posted by: 98101 Feb 10 2018, 10:16 PM

I was a teenager with my first job when I bought my first 914. There was the Haynes manual with blurry photos, a VW&Porsche Magazine, mechanics who took advantage of information assymetry, and not much else.

Now I’m 52 years old, with lots more money, lots less time, similar urges, but skills no better than then. I’m grateful for this forum though.

Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 10 2018, 11:22 PM

QUOTE(forrestkhaag @ Feb 10 2018, 08:55 PM) *

I am impressed with this kids ability to see gold where some only see rust. He can have this depth of perspective because he has 50 years jump on some of us ...me.. He has plenty of time to learn how to weld starting on a 110 wire feed then on to gas tig or mig. I gave my son a tiny used Lincoln wire feed at his tenth birthday party. He is now a master welder - not on 110

My suggestion is for him to ask on the boards here for free or nearly free extras and spares to help your build.

By way of example, when euro911 wisely downsized and packed up his toys headed to Arizona he had piles of priceless (unsellable) parts that are useless to his projects and cost to move and to have to store for another three decades. He has offered those parts up for free or a greatly discounted values to help others less fortunate. Further,

Larmo has a collection of parts and pieces that baffle his team of psychiatic specialists as to why he covets these things and hoards the 914 jewels in his garage ......stored in Ball Jars and carefully organized hermetically sealed containers / knowing that his beautiful 914 6 is almost nearing the third of twelve phases of "completion".

Kieth, on the other hand, has the presence of mind to catalogue what he needs and sell or donate the rest. Most of his hoarding is in the mental knowledge amassed in his engineers brain. The key....... to unlocking the vault of Keith's Porsche experience from 911 racing experience to 914 rebuilds.... is temporarily misplaced. But will be found when a solution to a 914 technical problem arises. This kid could ask any of us for direction on a 914 problem. Unfortunately, this poor kid will get 9 different solutions to the same problem. But there are solutions.

These World guys are resources that we did not have in 1973 when I bought my first 914.

This kid does have World resources. Let's support the young kids that have the courage to jump in to a rust oration. beerchug.gif

I really appreciate this. Thank you so much and i will definitely use these resources:)


Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 10 2018, 11:27 PM

QUOTE(burton73 @ Feb 10 2018, 11:15 PM) *

QUOTE(camgraves3113 @ Feb 10 2018, 08:02 PM) *

Also, i am IN LOVE with the isma front bumper piratenanner.gif



Very cool. Did you dad teach you how not to be afraid to work on cars? My dad could not turn a screwdriver.

Have you bought a welder and auto shield yet?

If you are thinking of venting the front brakes, not sure that you will need it innless you are going to be doing high-speed racing.

You should share your vision of these cars. We would love to hear it and may have some tips for you. Our members are really in the know on these little VW-Porsches.

Regards,

Bob B


My dad hs rebuilt several cars, and is a very mechanical person. Trust me i know im lucky with that, and i am using him to my great advantage hahahaha. And no, ibut i have bought a sandblasting cabinet and many other tools. Do you have any recommendations for the welder and soecs?

Posted by: burton73 Feb 11 2018, 12:39 AM

You are very lucky to have your dad working with you. You want a big compressor to blast things as it makes it much easer and for sure you need to wear dust mask as the dust can be very dangerous. Always use safety gear and jack stands can be very dangerous if you get the wrong ones.

A tip on looking up things on our search function. I use Google and ask the question and end with Porsche 914world it will bring up past posting.

Say: Best welder Porsche 914world

Returned 914World.com | Question for welding gurus
www.914world.com › 914World.com › The 914 Forums › 914World Garage
1.
Nov 8, 2017 - 20 posts - ‎6 authors
Thanks guys! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif) That's kind of what I thought. Bad news is that I probably wasted money on this smaller liner, but since 99% of my welding is in the .023-.030 range, it will make a good backup. I think maybe the only difference is the diameter of the hole in the collet.


welder.gif sawzall-smiley.gif When you get a welder, try to get one that has good control on amperage not just 1-6 on each control. I have found that sometimes it is in-between the numbers.

Good hunting,

Bob B

Posted by: Porschef Feb 11 2018, 07:57 AM

beerchug.gif Cheers. You've got a nice project ahead of you.

You surely must know of CFR, they're a straight shot down 44 into Manchester. There's this guy named Chris Foley who knows a little about 914's. He's an alright dude. Ed's ok too. biggrin.gif Worth a trip. shades.gif

Enjoy, and like everyone has said, keep posting. Lots of folks here to cheer.gif you on.

Joe

Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 11 2018, 04:18 PM

THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!! i feel so lucky you have no idea to get everyones input. I definitely have the right saftey gear and have taken the right pro cautionary measures. Also, i will take a trip down to them for sure!!
Lastly im trying to test the light motors, after i clean them up. Excited to see what comes from that!!


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 11 2018, 06:39 PM

Also cleaned up the garage for the huge 6x3 sand blaster i purchased!!! Its getting delivered tomorrow i could not be happier. Now got to find a compatable compresser for a reasonable price


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 11 2018, 06:42 PM

Gotta love a good collection of spray cans!! biggrin.gif biggrin.gif


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 12 2018, 02:03 PM

Hmmmm wonder what this could be cheer.gif


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Posted by: theer Feb 12 2018, 02:14 PM

Wow! Seeing those pictures makes me think... if an 18 year-old can't get them upright, then I don't feel so bad anymore! laugh.gif

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Posted by: theer Feb 12 2018, 02:18 PM

Oh and if you're in Canton, CT, make sure to head over to see Chris Foley at Tangerine Racing in Manchester, CT.

Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 12 2018, 04:53 PM

QUOTE(theer @ Feb 12 2018, 03:14 PM) *

Wow! Seeing those pictures makes me think... if an 18 year-old can't get them upright, then I don't feel so bad anymore! laugh.gif

welcome.png


Hahahha too true

Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 12 2018, 04:53 PM

QUOTE(theer @ Feb 12 2018, 03:18 PM) *

Oh and if you're in Canton, CT, make sure to head over to see Chris Foley at Tangerine Racing in Manchester, CT.


I will for sure. Thank you!

Posted by: Rockland914 Feb 12 2018, 06:38 PM

Congratulations on your car. I just got my 914 in September. Starting restoration this month. I spent a good amount of time getting my garage ready. Made more space by installing some high shelves, fixed lighting issue. I also wired in two dedicated 20 amp outlets, you will need those or a big compressor and for a good MIG welder. For welders start looking at Craigslist. I was able to find a Lincoln Pro 140 with a stand, full tank of argon mix for half of retail. It was a year old. Shielding gas makes welding a lot cleaner, also less smoke and fumes. No experience with Harbor Freight welders but if you are on a tight budget they are hard to beat. Restoration Design has a plethora of metal panels for your car. The more of them you make yourself, the more you save. Good luck.

Posted by: aharder Feb 12 2018, 07:19 PM

Congratulations and welcome.png It a great place for our cars !!

Posted by: stownsen914 Feb 13 2018, 08:59 AM

Awesome project! My first car was a 914 too. My dad and I rebuilt it back in the 1980s with some help from at least one other regular on this forum. Arguably an easier project back then as the cars were much younger. You'll have a kickass car once you're done!

Scott

Posted by: camgraves3113 Feb 22 2018, 12:13 PM

Sorry everyone for my inactivity!
Someone stole my phone!! mad.gif mad.gif
But now i have gotten a new one and will continue this thread

Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 5 2018, 10:11 PM

Tried to drop the engine and tranny out today... but the engine mounting bar end bolts (at either ends) were just spinning the nut and the bult, therefore i cannot remove it. It is in such an odd place that i also cannot reach the nut to keep it stable and not turn with the bolt. Any ideas?


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 5 2018, 10:12 PM

smile.gif so much work to be done


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Posted by: superJoy Mar 6 2018, 09:18 AM

QUOTE(camgraves3113 @ Mar 5 2018, 11:11 PM) *

Tried to drop the engine and tranny out today... but the engine mounting bar end bolts (at either ends) were just spinning the nut and the bult, therefore i cannot remove it. It is in such an odd place that i also cannot reach the nut to keep it stable and not turn with the bolt. Any ideas?

I just went through this problem with the engine carrier bolts the last couple weekends on mine. One YouTube video mentioned wedging something up between the nut and the sides of the bracket it sits in -- like a bolt or small piece of metal. I had no success with this. I eventually got a deep well half inch drive socket/ratchet on the nut, but had a hell of a time getting my arm up there to turn it. Nevertheless, the nut was so rusted on that there was no hope for disassembly. Maybe you will be more lucky. Definitely hose things down with a penetrating oil. Consider heat but be careful with it. My propane torch wouldn't light well, too cold in my unheated garage, so I didn't use it to any great effect.

Due to the condition of my nut/bolt, having exhausted all other possibilities, I cut the head off the bolt with a hacksaw. I cut most of the way through, then knocked it off the rest of the way with a chisel/hammer. Then, I was able to turn the nut-side, spinning the bolt in the hole, and gradually working it out from above. I also used a punch/hammer to help drive it out from below. But this doesn't work so well --- you may mushroom the bolt and you're even more screwed. Anyway, I got the passenger side bolt out this way. Obviously there is a risk of collateral damage when you cut things. I would only do this as a last resort.

I still haven't gotten the driver's side to come apart. The bolt is really frozen in there. It may be bent too. Ended up undoing the engine mount nuts, lifting the engine up, and swinging the engine carrier bar forward so I could get the engine out. Now that the engine is out, I have a lot more room to work with whenever I feel up to removing the driver's side bolt.

If you are doing metal-on-metal hammering, wear safety goggles and hearing protection. I wish I was smarter with this stuff, especially the latter, when I first got started wrenching.

Posted by: Mikey914 Mar 6 2018, 11:44 AM

Welcome to 914 world. Both of my boys had a 914 for their 1st car. It will teach you many things. Mostly patience.
It is a rewarding project. Just like the old saying how do you eat an elephant - one bite at a time. You have lots to do, and will be trying at times. Just remember you have found one of the best resources - 914world. There are many that can lend advice, and have done what you are doing.
welcome.png

Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 6 2018, 02:51 PM

QUOTE(superJoy @ Mar 6 2018, 10:18 AM) *

QUOTE(camgraves3113 @ Mar 5 2018, 11:11 PM) *

Tried to drop the engine and tranny out today... but the engine mounting bar end bolts (at either ends) were just spinning the nut and the bult, therefore i cannot remove it. It is in such an odd place that i also cannot reach the nut to keep it stable and not turn with the bolt. Any ideas?

I just went through this problem with the engine carrier bolts the last couple weekends on mine. One YouTube video mentioned wedging something up between the nut and the sides of the bracket it sits in -- like a bolt or small piece of metal. I had no success with this. I eventually got a deep well half inch drive socket/ratchet on the nut, but had a hell of a time getting my arm up there to turn it. Nevertheless, the nut was so rusted on that there was no hope for disassembly. Maybe you will be more lucky. Definitely hose things down with a penetrating oil. Consider heat but be careful with it. My propane torch wouldn't light well, too cold in my unheated garage, so I didn't use it to any great effect.

Due to the condition of my nut/bolt, having exhausted all other possibilities, I cut the head off the bolt with a hacksaw. I cut most of the way through, then knocked it off the rest of the way with a chisel/hammer. Then, I was able to turn the nut-side, spinning the bolt in the hole, and gradually working it out from above. I also used a punch/hammer to help drive it out from below. But this doesn't work so well --- you may mushroom the bolt and you're even more screwed. Anyway, I got the passenger side bolt out this way. Obviously there is a risk of collateral damage when you cut things. I would only do this as a last resort.

I still haven't gotten the driver's side to come apart. The bolt is really frozen in there. It may be bent too. Ended up undoing the engine mount nuts, lifting the engine up, and swinging the engine carrier bar forward so I could get the engine out. Now that the engine is out, I have a lot more room to work with whenever I feel up to removing the driver's side bolt.

If you are doing metal-on-metal hammering, wear safety goggles and hearing protection. I wish I was smarter with this stuff, especially the latter, when I first got started wrenching.


Thank you so much!!!! I cant wait to get home and be able to try these techniques smile.gif
Your help is really appreciated, i can not thank you enough

Posted by: jd74914 Mar 6 2018, 03:24 PM

I believe it's possible to stick an open ended wrench up there and hold onto the top nut. You definitely should be able to get something up there reaching from the front side (at the moment I can't remember what I used last time). That said, I've found those bolts seized before and just cut the heads off with an angle grinder and cutting disc. If you do that just make sure you have some jack stands or other supports under the engine mount bar and keep your body out of the way.

Posted by: mobymutt Mar 6 2018, 03:54 PM

QUOTE(jd74914 @ Mar 6 2018, 04:24 PM) *

I believe it's possible to stick an open ended wrench up there and hold onto the top nut.


That's all I did. But mine wasn't seized at all.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Mar 6 2018, 06:09 PM

I used two ratchets and sockets, one on the nut on top and one on the bolt on the bottom. The angle was a bit odd, but not too awful.

--DD

Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 6 2018, 08:36 PM

THANK you everyone, me and my dad were able to drop it out without even cutting nor drilling any bolt whatsoever. So i had the car up on 1 cinderblock high, and basically, using two jacks on either side of the engine mounting large bracket. Bye doing this, there was no down pressure on the bar which was ultimately holding the nut in the deepest part of the oddly located and shaped (cover?)-holding the nut and bolt on either sides. BECAUSE of this, i was finally able to get my hand and a wrench on the nut, and a socket on the bolt.

Also bye jacking the bar, with two jacks close to the middle (leaving the bolt and nut accessible) basically, only the top of the bolt is threaded, so i was able to push up on the bolt, and push it in farther, allowing the nut to be raised and provide easy access. Sorry if i am hard to understand, i am surely not majoring in english!! Haha

All in all, i am very thankful for the 914 community and support, as i was able to make huge progress today. Now i get to work with the motor and get the baby cleaned out (it is a bored out 1.7L to a 2litre) and looking and sounding good. In the next few posts i am going to provide images to respresent my directions ^ and hopefully make this adventure more informative for whomever reads this thread smile.gif


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 6 2018, 08:37 PM

2


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 6 2018, 08:38 PM

3 smile.gif


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 6 2018, 08:38 PM

And 4 piratenanner.gif


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Posted by: jd74914 Mar 7 2018, 09:16 AM

Awesome! Looking good Cam. Much cleaner than the first time I pulled my '74 motor. laugh.gif

Planning on converting to 5-lug (looking at the 911 hubs in the background)?

Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 7 2018, 12:39 PM

QUOTE(jd74914 @ Mar 7 2018, 10:16 AM) *

Awesome! Looking good Cam. Much cleaner than the first time I pulled my '74 motor. laugh.gif

Planning on converting to 5-lug (looking at the 911 hubs in the background)?


Haha yes you know it! And thank you, im excited to finally get to the nitty gritty and try to get the most powerful 4cyl as i can

Posted by: Dave_Darling Mar 7 2018, 01:31 PM

QUOTE(camgraves3113 @ Mar 6 2018, 06:36 PM) *
(it is a bored out 1.7L to a 2litre)


That is commonly referred to as a "1.9" or a "1911" (which is the displacement in CC of a 96mm bore and the stock 66mm stroke).

A 2.0 motor is 94mm bore X 71mm stroke, for 1971cc displacement. Calling your 1911 a "2 liter" is a bit of a misrepresentation.

--DD

Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 7 2018, 01:57 PM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Mar 7 2018, 02:31 PM) *

QUOTE(camgraves3113 @ Mar 6 2018, 06:36 PM) *
(it is a bored out 1.7L to a 2litre)


That is commonly referred to as a "1.9" or a "1911" (which is the displacement in CC of a 96mm bore and the stock 66mm stroke).

A 2.0 motor is 94mm bore X 71mm stroke, for 1971cc displacement. Calling your 1911 a "2 liter" is a bit of a misrepresentation.

--DD


Very interesting, as i will admit i at this point i am very ill informed regarding engine specifications, compression rates, and ect. Thank you for pointing this out I appreciate any info you have to offer

Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 8 2018, 03:05 PM

Gosh this looks AND smells horrible! dry.gif
The engine tin and especially screws are so corroded and stuck i can barely move ANY of them! Yes i used tons of liquid wrench, and gave it time to sit. Any ideas? Thanks!!


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 8 2018, 03:06 PM

I definitely have to get my tetanus shot now


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 8 2018, 03:07 PM

And lastly, this grease covored oily mess


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Posted by: jd74914 Mar 8 2018, 03:34 PM

Those RH intake ports don't look so hot...is that white stuff corrosion and does it run the whole way down the port?

Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 8 2018, 04:00 PM

QUOTE(jd74914 @ Mar 8 2018, 04:34 PM) *

Those RH intake ports don't look so hot...is that white stuff corrosion and does it run the whole way down the port?


Sadly it is corrosion, and from what i can tell, the engine is basically filled with it; including all the way down the port

Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 8 2018, 05:39 PM

Worked on cleaning it up with purple power luquid, metal bristled brushes, and some elbow grease. Got to admit, it barely seems to look any better. I wish i could power wash it, or would that be too harsh to the crevices of a bare engine? Any tips or tricks would be great


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Posted by: Dave_Darling Mar 8 2018, 06:35 PM

For the engine tin screws, I have found a few things that help.

1- Get the correct size screwdriver. I know they're just slot-head screws, but if you get a driver that fits the slot snugly it helps. I found that the largest screwdriver I could find at my local Sears was the correct size. If you can, take one of the engine tin screws with you to check the fit against the screwdrivers in the store or in your Best Friend's tool collection.

2- Impact can help. Put the driver in the screw, then give the handle end of the driver a sharp rap with a mallet. This can, sometimes, help break a bond between the fastener and what it is screwed into.

3- Use a good penetrating oil. Liquid Wrench is OK, WD-40 is not. I like PB Blaster and Kano's Aero Kroyl. Others have said that paraffin also works if you heat the fastener.

4- Which leads us to the other big thing, heat. The "hot wrench" can help break the bond between parts. Use with caution, and make sure to have a fire extinguisher handy.

--DD

Posted by: mepstein Mar 8 2018, 06:42 PM

Lots of heat and then the paraffin/wax as it cools. The heat wicks in the wax. Works well.

Posted by: porschetub Mar 8 2018, 09:25 PM

QUOTE(jd74914 @ Mar 9 2018, 10:34 AM) *

Those RH intake ports don't look so hot...is that white stuff corrosion and does it run the whole way down the port?


agree.gif not good don't expect too much ,outside stored motor,generally not a great out come,bottom end might be ok???
In this case I would say the pistons will be seized in the bores sad.gif .

Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 8 2018, 10:42 PM

Thank you guys so much, i will try all the suggested techniques, and update you all on the outcome!

Posted by: jd74914 Mar 9 2018, 07:07 AM

I'd highly suggest going out and buying an impact screw driver to remove engine tin screws (also work well for the rotor screws, etc). When you hit them with a hammer they rotate slightly so the turning is perfectly timed with the impact; I've rarely stripped a tough screw using one. You can buy Lisle 3/8" one at sears or off Amazon for ~$20 and it's worth every penny.

Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 9 2018, 06:37 PM

Sadly on the other intake, some bolts are stripped, and i am currently trying to get them out

Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 10 2018, 06:40 PM

Also, for everyone that is interested, i have some 914 things up so far, but i am about to offer many more parts (refurbished) on ebay!!

Here is my link;

https://ebay.com/usr/cagrave-0

https://ebay.com/usr/cagrave-0

Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 10 2018, 08:59 PM

Also, is it correct for the intakes farthest nut (closest to the tranny) to be a different size? It could be that mines so rusted and deformed, but it seems to me to be genuinely smaller than the other three 13mm bolts that bolt the piped on. Im just curious!! smile.gif

Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 11 2018, 01:25 PM

Still have yet to touch this guy!!!! Haha, the parts are beautiful though i am very excited to eventually get to it


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 13 2018, 02:07 PM

Does anyone have a pro and con list of shocks and struts compared to the price. I want to go with KYB gas adjust, is that ok for performance?

Posted by: mepstein Mar 13 2018, 02:31 PM

QUOTE(camgraves3113 @ Mar 13 2018, 04:07 PM) *

Does anyone have a pro and con list of shocks and struts compared to the price. I want to go with KYB gas adjust, is that ok for performance?

No. If you want performance shocks, go billstein or koni. If you want economical and good street driving go Boge. If you can only afford kyb’s, save your money until you can spend more.

Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 13 2018, 10:49 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Mar 13 2018, 02:31 PM) *

QUOTE(camgraves3113 @ Mar 13 2018, 04:07 PM) *

Does anyone have a pro and con list of shocks and struts compared to the price. I want to go with KYB gas adjust, is that ok for performance?

No. If you want performance shocks, go billstein or koni. If you want economical and good street driving go Boge. If you can only afford kyb’s, save your money until you can spend more.


I appreciate it. I do have the money, but i dont really understand the difference in the shocks and struts from one to another

Posted by: 3d914 Mar 14 2018, 01:16 PM

QUOTE(camgraves3113 @ Mar 13 2018, 09:49 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Mar 13 2018, 02:31 PM) *

QUOTE(camgraves3113 @ Mar 13 2018, 04:07 PM) *

Does anyone have a pro and con list of shocks and struts compared to the price. I want to go with KYB gas adjust, is that ok for performance?

No. If you want performance shocks, go billstein or koni. If you want economical and good street driving go Boge. If you can only afford kyb’s, save your money until you can spend more.


I appreciate it. I do have the money, but i dont really understand the difference in the shocks and struts from one to another


I second mepstein's advice. Went with Billstein and never regretted it.

Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 16 2018, 01:11 PM

Trying to get better at refurbishing parts in general. I am pretty excited about this blower/heater


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 16 2018, 01:12 PM

Another pic


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 16 2018, 01:13 PM

3.. smile.gif


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Posted by: camgraves3113 Mar 25 2018, 05:35 PM

This looks good right?


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