I purchased two 73 914’s, for 3200 total. Great price, i believe but both cars are beautiful fust buckets. Tons of laborious work ahead. Here’s original photos from about 2 months ago
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30+ years of sitting outside in CT weather. And this is the other one I purchased, the outside doesnt look too chabby, but the inside floor pans everywhere is totally rotted out. What a shame
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Now, into the damage ive been working with
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So far did a few things, like refurbishment of parts. No body work yet sadly. Im taking my time to do my best possible
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Also these i did with truck bed liner, it gives it a great texture in my opinion
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and looks like you got a lot of work "cut out" for you.
You came to the right place.
yikes! thats a lot of rust! i hope you have mad welding skills or deap pockets- no doubt it is a labor of love but surely you could have paid less for something in better shape than that maybe? as we used to say in Mn - Ufta!
well dont let me discourage you, though they have been worth saving now thst values continue to climb, what i should have said first is
and keep. posting the updates we love to see the progress! i hope you do it faster than i did !
happy
If you havent already, buy a Mig welder, run .030 wire and 75/25 gas. You have your work cut out for you but its doable. Congrats on the purchase! Start with the best chassis and work from there.
You came to the right place for encouragement and advise. Good luck on the journey and welcome to the addiction.
Hi from another CT guy whose first car was also a 914 (with potentially more rust even)! I got mine at 14, drove it for the first time around 19 after full restoration, stopped driving at 24 for some modifications, and now am 30 and trying to finish them up after life got in the way.
That looks like a fun project and an especially good way to learn how to weld. It'll be interesting to see some pictures with better light. I'm from around Manchester, but often find myself on your side of the river, shoot me a PM if you ever want to meet up or need some help/parts. We've cut up some cars and have a good amount of small parts plus some larger ones.
$3200 should have gotten you a lot more car with a lot less rust. Good luck with the build.
Thank you everyone!! Any input is appreciated, and i got both cars for this price, as well as many extra parts like an extra set of calipers. I dont know how to weld, so this is how i will learn i guess!! And i will definitely go with an MIG and the specifications that was suggested
Welcome to 914 world.
My son Taylor is currently working on his that has /had damage on the bulkhead from rat urine. You may want to look at his thread to so see what corrosion he had and where to look for rust. His was extensive, and we are doing a full rotisserie restoration, but I do believe the rust would be in the same places.
Good news is there are plenty of bulkheads around as it's not a common area for rust.
www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=298851&hl=taylors+wes
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Way to go for 18. The silver car may have factory Fuchs in 6. I cannot tell by the picture but if deep 6 with harts you may have $2,500 worth of wheels. I bought a car 7 years ago for a 930 Porsche trans and it came with a non-rusted body and 3 Deep 6s with Harts Fuchs and one regular Fuchs 6 no hart. Sold the 3 harts for $1,500. And their prices have gone way up. So the guys here will help you find out what you have on their if you get good pictures of front and back.
You may get some money to help you get more of what you need to fix your cars.
These cars have taken a huge price increase in the last 8 years and still moving up fast right now.
Welcome to the world and ask for help to the board.
Bob B
I am impressed with this kids ability to see gold where some only see rust. He can have this depth of perspective because he has 50 years jump on some of us ...me.. He has plenty of time to learn how to weld starting on a 110 wire feed then on to gas tig or mig. I gave my son a tiny used Lincoln wire feed at his tenth birthday party. He is now a master welder - not on 110
My suggestion is for him to ask on the boards here for free or nearly free extras and spares to help your build.
By way of example, when euro911 wisely downsized and packed up his toys headed to Arizona he had piles of priceless (unsellable) parts that are useless to his projects and cost to move and to have to store for another three decades. He has offered those parts up for free or a greatly discounted values to help others less fortunate. Further,
Larmo has a collection of parts and pieces that baffle his team of psychiatic specialists as to why he covets these things and hoards the 914 jewels in his garage ......stored in Ball Jars and carefully organized hermetically sealed containers / knowing that his beautiful 914 6 is almost nearing the third of twelve phases of "completion".
Kieth, on the other hand, has the presence of mind to catalogue what he needs and sell or donate the rest. Most of his hoarding is in the mental knowledge amassed in his engineers brain. The key....... to unlocking the vault of Keith's Porsche experience from 911 racing experience to 914 rebuilds.... is temporarily misplaced. But will be found when a solution to a 914 technical problem arises. This kid could ask any of us for direction on a 914 problem. Unfortunately, this poor kid will get 9 different solutions to the same problem. But there are solutions.
These World guys are resources that we did not have in 1973 when I bought my first 914.
This kid does have World resources. Let's support the young kids that have the courage to jump in to a rust oration.
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Loads of help on this forum. Make sure you post many pictures as qualified people will give advice.
You definitely need to investigate and post pictures of the silver car wheels, brakes, and
suspension setup. There might be some nice components behind (914-6?).
Watch the classified as you could get a solid tub from the dry west coast that could save you a lot of work and money. Otherwise, Restoration Design is your friend.
Good luck with your project
It was extremely humid and uncomfortable outside today, so instead i made grill mesh and formed it to the air duct intake. Would anyone advise me to run this air to the rotors, or run it to the motor, or oil cooler, ect. Any response is very appreciated!!!!
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Also, i am IN LOVE with the isma front bumper
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I was a teenager with my first job when I bought my first 914. There was the Haynes manual with blurry photos, a VW&Porsche Magazine, mechanics who took advantage of information assymetry, and not much else.
Now I’m 52 years old, with lots more money, lots less time, similar urges, but skills no better than then. I’m grateful for this forum though.
You are very lucky to have your dad working with you. You want a big compressor to blast things as it makes it much easer and for sure you need to wear dust mask as the dust can be very dangerous. Always use safety gear and jack stands can be very dangerous if you get the wrong ones.
A tip on looking up things on our search function. I use Google and ask the question and end with Porsche 914world it will bring up past posting.
Say: Best welder Porsche 914world
Returned 914World.com | Question for welding gurus
www.914world.com › 914World.com › The 914 Forums › 914World Garage
1.
Nov 8, 2017 - 20 posts - 6 authors
Thanks guys! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif) That's kind of what I thought. Bad news is that I probably wasted money on this smaller liner, but since 99% of my welding is in the .023-.030 range, it will make a good backup. I think maybe the only difference is the diameter of the hole in the collet.
When you get a welder, try to get one that has good control on amperage not just 1-6 on each control. I have found that sometimes it is in-between the numbers.
Good hunting,
Bob B
Cheers. You've got a nice project ahead of you.
You surely must know of CFR, they're a straight shot down 44 into Manchester. There's this guy named Chris Foley who knows a little about 914's. He's an alright dude. Ed's ok too. Worth a trip.
Enjoy, and like everyone has said, keep posting. Lots of folks here to you on.
Joe
THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!! i feel so lucky you have no idea to get everyones input. I definitely have the right saftey gear and have taken the right pro cautionary measures. Also, i will take a trip down to them for sure!!
Lastly im trying to test the light motors, after i clean them up. Excited to see what comes from that!!
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Also cleaned up the garage for the huge 6x3 sand blaster i purchased!!! Its getting delivered tomorrow i could not be happier. Now got to find a compatable compresser for a reasonable price
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Gotta love a good collection of spray cans!!
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Wow! Seeing those pictures makes me think... if an 18 year-old can't get them upright, then I don't feel so bad anymore!
Oh and if you're in Canton, CT, make sure to head over to see Chris Foley at Tangerine Racing in Manchester, CT.
Congratulations on your car. I just got my 914 in September. Starting restoration this month. I spent a good amount of time getting my garage ready. Made more space by installing some high shelves, fixed lighting issue. I also wired in two dedicated 20 amp outlets, you will need those or a big compressor and for a good MIG welder. For welders start looking at Craigslist. I was able to find a Lincoln Pro 140 with a stand, full tank of argon mix for half of retail. It was a year old. Shielding gas makes welding a lot cleaner, also less smoke and fumes. No experience with Harbor Freight welders but if you are on a tight budget they are hard to beat. Restoration Design has a plethora of metal panels for your car. The more of them you make yourself, the more you save. Good luck.
Congratulations and It a great place for our cars !!
Awesome project! My first car was a 914 too. My dad and I rebuilt it back in the 1980s with some help from at least one other regular on this forum. Arguably an easier project back then as the cars were much younger. You'll have a kickass car once you're done!
Scott
Sorry everyone for my inactivity!
Someone stole my phone!!
But now i have gotten a new one and will continue this thread
Tried to drop the engine and tranny out today... but the engine mounting bar end bolts (at either ends) were just spinning the nut and the bult, therefore i cannot remove it. It is in such an odd place that i also cannot reach the nut to keep it stable and not turn with the bolt. Any ideas?
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Welcome to 914 world. Both of my boys had a 914 for their 1st car. It will teach you many things. Mostly patience.
It is a rewarding project. Just like the old saying how do you eat an elephant - one bite at a time. You have lots to do, and will be trying at times. Just remember you have found one of the best resources - 914world. There are many that can lend advice, and have done what you are doing.
I believe it's possible to stick an open ended wrench up there and hold onto the top nut. You definitely should be able to get something up there reaching from the front side (at the moment I can't remember what I used last time). That said, I've found those bolts seized before and just cut the heads off with an angle grinder and cutting disc. If you do that just make sure you have some jack stands or other supports under the engine mount bar and keep your body out of the way.
I used two ratchets and sockets, one on the nut on top and one on the bolt on the bottom. The angle was a bit odd, but not too awful.
--DD
THANK you everyone, me and my dad were able to drop it out without even cutting nor drilling any bolt whatsoever. So i had the car up on 1 cinderblock high, and basically, using two jacks on either side of the engine mounting large bracket. Bye doing this, there was no down pressure on the bar which was ultimately holding the nut in the deepest part of the oddly located and shaped (cover?)-holding the nut and bolt on either sides. BECAUSE of this, i was finally able to get my hand and a wrench on the nut, and a socket on the bolt.
Also bye jacking the bar, with two jacks close to the middle (leaving the bolt and nut accessible) basically, only the top of the bolt is threaded, so i was able to push up on the bolt, and push it in farther, allowing the nut to be raised and provide easy access. Sorry if i am hard to understand, i am surely not majoring in english!! Haha
All in all, i am very thankful for the 914 community and support, as i was able to make huge progress today. Now i get to work with the motor and get the baby cleaned out (it is a bored out 1.7L to a 2litre) and looking and sounding good. In the next few posts i am going to provide images to respresent my directions ^ and hopefully make this adventure more informative for whomever reads this thread
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Awesome! Looking good Cam. Much cleaner than the first time I pulled my '74 motor.
Planning on converting to 5-lug (looking at the 911 hubs in the background)?
Gosh this looks AND smells horrible!
The engine tin and especially screws are so corroded and stuck i can barely move ANY of them! Yes i used tons of liquid wrench, and gave it time to sit. Any ideas? Thanks!!
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I definitely have to get my tetanus shot now
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And lastly, this grease covored oily mess
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Those RH intake ports don't look so hot...is that white stuff corrosion and does it run the whole way down the port?
Worked on cleaning it up with purple power luquid, metal bristled brushes, and some elbow grease. Got to admit, it barely seems to look any better. I wish i could power wash it, or would that be too harsh to the crevices of a bare engine? Any tips or tricks would be great
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For the engine tin screws, I have found a few things that help.
1- Get the correct size screwdriver. I know they're just slot-head screws, but if you get a driver that fits the slot snugly it helps. I found that the largest screwdriver I could find at my local Sears was the correct size. If you can, take one of the engine tin screws with you to check the fit against the screwdrivers in the store or in your Best Friend's tool collection.
2- Impact can help. Put the driver in the screw, then give the handle end of the driver a sharp rap with a mallet. This can, sometimes, help break a bond between the fastener and what it is screwed into.
3- Use a good penetrating oil. Liquid Wrench is OK, WD-40 is not. I like PB Blaster and Kano's Aero Kroyl. Others have said that paraffin also works if you heat the fastener.
4- Which leads us to the other big thing, heat. The "hot wrench" can help break the bond between parts. Use with caution, and make sure to have a fire extinguisher handy.
--DD
Lots of heat and then the paraffin/wax as it cools. The heat wicks in the wax. Works well.
Thank you guys so much, i will try all the suggested techniques, and update you all on the outcome!
I'd highly suggest going out and buying an impact screw driver to remove engine tin screws (also work well for the rotor screws, etc). When you hit them with a hammer they rotate slightly so the turning is perfectly timed with the impact; I've rarely stripped a tough screw using one. You can buy Lisle 3/8" one at sears or off Amazon for ~$20 and it's worth every penny.
Sadly on the other intake, some bolts are stripped, and i am currently trying to get them out
Also, for everyone that is interested, i have some 914 things up so far, but i am about to offer many more parts (refurbished) on ebay!!
Here is my link;
https://ebay.com/usr/cagrave-0
https://ebay.com/usr/cagrave-0
Also, is it correct for the intakes farthest nut (closest to the tranny) to be a different size? It could be that mines so rusted and deformed, but it seems to me to be genuinely smaller than the other three 13mm bolts that bolt the piped on. Im just curious!!
Still have yet to touch this guy!!!! Haha, the parts are beautiful though i am very excited to eventually get to it
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Does anyone have a pro and con list of shocks and struts compared to the price. I want to go with KYB gas adjust, is that ok for performance?
Trying to get better at refurbishing parts in general. I am pretty excited about this blower/heater
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