It’s good to see the board alive and well, I've keep track but haven’t posted in a long time. The reason that I’m back is that a reoccurring pain in the neck problem came back and the 914 has been parked since (6 months). The problem is a broken clutch tube. Attached is a picture of the problem when it first occurred……….which I thought was permanently fixed with a plug weld, but I guess I thought wrong because it’s broken again. The plug weld lasted 4 years, has anyone got any ideas on a permanent fix for this problem
Mine was not detached like yours but as a preventative, I welded a .0625" thick x 1"x1"x1.5" long piece of angle iron over the clutch tube. As far forward as my MIG weld tip would allow through shifter opening. I then stitch welded the angle to the tunnel floor and tunnel wall. Then some spot welds from the angle to the tube.
sir, did u just weld the forward front and not the one in the middle part?
Looks like you still have the original tunnel fuel lines. Maybe it’s time to replace them with SS fue tunnel lines. Not that expensive and not so difficult to replace.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=274079
Look at this posting.
There are a few ways to fix this.
Bob B
My 6 when I got it had a u clamp over the tube and 2 thin nuts squeezing the tube to the left side of the tunnel. I guess it worked but I fixed it by welding a bracket over it when I had it apart.
Question is how far do you want to go in?
Bob B
It can be done with a wide heater hose clamp.
Use a cut-off wheel to make two parallel slots about 3/4" apart one above the other on
the side of the tunnel. Dress the ends or the slots with a small round file.
Feed the end of the clamp into the lower slot then around the tube and out the upper
slot. Feed the plain end of the clamp into the tightening slot and tighten away.
It's tough on the fingers but it works.....with less fear than welding.
Use a hole saw to make a 2" access hole in the top of the tunnel to allow access to
install the clamp.
A correct plug weld...or two ...or three is a permanent fix. See photo in the linked thread.
This was my 6 when I fixed the lose tube. The drill is a heat sink so it does not burn through.
Bob B
wow excellent picture, we reinstall the original bracket, weld the tube to the bracket and the bracket to the side of the tunnel, then go into the middle and weld the tube there and finally in the back burning out the factory braise and welding the tube to the firewall and have never had an additional problem (of course keep the cable well lubricated, the clevis and bushing in good condition, and the rear roller assembly clean and lubricated
Maybe time for a Hyd. clutch?
David
Thanks for all of the great replies.....I've got a reasonably good idea of how to attack this problem, again
Greg
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