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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ oil recommendations?
Posted by: LCOX Mar 11 2018, 05:01 PM
What oil do you recommend for my 914 daily driver? I use Castrol GTX 10/40 but have seen some posts that you shouldn't use any multi-viscosity oil less than 20/50 because of lower oil pressure at idle that may cause a flickering oil pressure light. I've also heard some people who use straight 40 weight or even straight 50 weight oil. What weight and brand is best for good oil pressure?
Posted by: Rand Mar 11 2018, 05:08 PM
I like Brad Penn 20/50 green. These engines need zinc and phosphorous in the oil.
Wow, time flies, but I blogged this years ago after a bunch of research back then:
http://www.randbaldwin.com/index.php/914-and-oils/
There may be some new changes now.
Posted by: GeorgeRud Mar 11 2018, 08:10 PM
Porsche will gladly sell you their ‘vintage’ 20-50 oil in nice metal cans. I used Castro’s GTX for years, but now you have to look carefully as the ZDDP levels have been reduced. Much like ethanol laced fuel, it’s not always good for our cars.
Posted by: 914 RZ-1 Mar 11 2018, 08:16 PM
What oil do you recommend for my 914 daily driver? I use Castrol GTX 10/40 but have seen some posts that you shouldn't use any multi-viscosity oil less than 20/50 because of lower oil pressure at idle that may cause a flickering oil pressure light. I've also heard some people who use straight 40 weight or even straight 50 weight oil. What weight and brand is best for good oil pressure?
I use Castrol GTX 20/50. I've been told that lighter oil will leak more (it's thinner, so it comes out easier). This was recommended to me by a friend who's owned 914's for over 20 years.
This is from the Valvoline website: The "w" in motor oil stands for winter. The first number in the oil classification refers to a cold weather viscosity. The lower this number is, the less viscous your oil will be at low temperatures. For example, a 5W- motor oil will flow better at lower temperatures than a 15W- motor oil. The higher number, following the “w” refers to hot weather viscosity, or how fluid your oil is at hot temperatures. The higher the number, the thicker the oil at a specified temperature.
There's a blog about oil that discusses the zinc in oil issue. He states that it's a myth and that what matters is another performance standard. If you can find it, it's fascinating reading. It's also VERY long. I think its called rat540 or something. I think there is a thread or 2 on here about it. You'll probably get a whole buncha people chiming in, so strap yourself in!
Posted by: mlindner Mar 12 2018, 10:20 AM
Joe Gibbs DT50 for air cooled engine. Again high zinc and more.
Posted by: Steve Mar 12 2018, 08:27 PM
Over the counter Valvoline VR1 20/50 at your local flaps
Posted by: type47fan Mar 13 2018, 11:27 AM
Thom Smith, a Valvoline lubricants chemist briefly discusses the zinc-dialkyl-dithiophosphate (ZDDP) oil additive component history, benefits for flat tappet engines, and effects on catalytic converters:
http://www.motorweek.org/features/goss_garage/too_much_zinc_in_your_oil
ZDDP thermal decomposition testing results of one study (HINT: keep it below 300F):
https://arxiv.org/ftp/arxiv/papers/1502/1502.07261.pdf
Posted by: ValcoOscar Mar 13 2018, 11:31 AM
I like Brad Penn 20/50 green. These engines need zinc and phosphorous in the oil.
Wow, time flies, but I blogged this years ago after a bunch of research back then:
http://www.randbaldwin.com/index.php/914-and-oils/
There may be some new changes now.
I also run Brad Penn 20/50 on my 914's...maybe different with a SIX
Posted by: cary Mar 13 2018, 07:08 PM
I like Brad Penn 20/50 green. These engines need zinc and phosphorous in the oil.
Wow, time flies, but I blogged this years ago after a bunch of research back then:
http://www.randbaldwin.com/index.php/914-and-oils/
There may be some new changes now.
I also run Brad Penn 20/50 on my 914's...maybe different with a SIXI too use Brad Penn 20-50. As does every air cooled engine that leaves Rothsport.
Posted by: RenoRoger Mar 13 2018, 07:39 PM
I like Brad Penn 20/50 green. These engines need zinc and phosphorous in the oil.
Wow, time flies, but I blogged this years ago after a bunch of research back then:
http://www.randbaldwin.com/index.php/914-and-oils/
There may be some new changes now.
I also run Brad Penn 20/50 on my 914's...maybe different with a SIXI too use Brad Penn 20-50. As does every air cooled engine that leaves Rothsport.
Who makes SUPERTECH 20W-50 sold at Walmart in 5 QT containers? The price is quite a bit lower than Valvoline VR 1 as an example. Is anybody using SUPERTECH?
Posted by: Justinp71 Mar 13 2018, 10:18 PM
I would use Brad Penn or if you want something cheaper Delo 400 LE. Careful there is another delo oil that Costco sells and that’s not the right one.
I would steer clear of gtx, I installed a new cam on my 3.0. Ran only gtx for 6 years, pulled the cam out and it had significant wear and I understand it’s mostly because of the low zddp.
Posted by: Jamie Mar 14 2018, 11:38 AM
And I haven't seen any mention of Shell Rotella T 20W-50 that I thought used to be a recommended oil for our engines..It is SJ rated, and I don't have local sources for the Brad Penn, so is there an additive that would increase the desired zinc level in oils not up to the desired percentage of other oils?
Posted by: krazykonrad Mar 14 2018, 05:30 PM
How about the Porsche Classic oil? Is it the real deal or just some re-packaged marked-up Castrol?
Konrad
Posted by: Dave_Darling Mar 15 2018, 09:28 AM
The diesel oils have also been reformulated to reduce the ZDDP content, which is unfortunate. They are still recommended by a number of good shops, though.
I would stay away from SUPERTECH oil, and also from all of the no-name oils.
VR-1 is very widely available, and works well. Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs, etc., work well but are less widely available. Mail order works, but can be less convenient.
The original weight specified was a straight 30-weight. Multi-grade oils were in their infancy when our engines were designed, though, and today's multi-grade are immensely better than what was available then.
Most people run 20/50 oil in their air-cooled 914s. Very little down-side to that from what I can tell.
Engines that have been rebuilt can have the tolerances changed and require different grades of oil; talk to your engine builder or machine shop about what they recommend if your engine is no longer stock. In general, tighter tolerances will need a lighter-weight oil, but there may be specific things the builder wants from the oil.
I run Brad Penn in my 914, but will probably switch to VR-1 when my current case runs out. My wife's 911SC gets Rotella T because that's what our pro mechanic recommends.
--DD
Posted by: Philip W. Mar 15 2018, 10:09 AM
Running 20/50 VR1 for a long time but now I have been for over a year now running the Brad Penn 20/50 green, since I put my oil cooler in - before that I did run single weight oil , I do thing due to the heat we get and I live in a warm climate the my oil temps have been right where they should be with this combo. 150k miles and going.
Posted by: Justinp71 Mar 15 2018, 10:16 AM
There was another oil thread on here recently. It showed a link to some analysis, it showed VR1 had a much higher psi protection rating that Brad Penn. Seems like VR1 and Brad Penn are both good choices.
Posted by: thelogo Mar 15 2018, 12:54 PM
The diesel oils have also been reformulated to reduce the ZDDP content, which is unfortunate. They are still recommended by a number of good shops, though.
I would stay away from SUPERTECH oil, and also from all of the no-name oils.
VR-1 is very widely available, and works well. Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs, etc., work well but are less widely available. Mail order works, but can be less convenient.
The original weight specified was a straight 30-weight. Multi-grade oils were in their infancy when our engines were designed, though, and today's multi-grade are immensely better than what was available then.
Most people run 20/50 oil in their air-cooled 914s. Very little down-side to that from what I can tell.
Engines that have been rebuilt can have the tolerances changed and require different grades of oil; talk to your engine builder or machine shop about what they recommend if your engine is no longer stock. In general, tighter tolerances will need a lighter-weight oil, but there may be specific things the builder wants from the oil.
I run Brad Penn in my 914, but will probably switch to VR-1 when my current case runs out. My wife's 911SC gets Rotella T because that's what our pro mechanic recommends.
--DD
Damn dave i know you are the man but your wife drive s a 911sc
Not bad brother ,not bad at all
Posted by: luvatenor Oct 23 2018, 11:10 AM
I see that everyone uses 20w-50 oil(mostly Castrol). The owners manual recommends straight 30 weight- This is confusing- I assume things have changed over the years-
Posted by: VaccaRabite Oct 23 2018, 12:07 PM
Its not all that confusing.
20w50 oil work better for our cars, so long as they have the proper additives. It retains consistency better in hot climates, and those are the times when people tend to drive our cars. People in colder regions use a 30 oil in the winter for easier start up and because the cold temps don't require the thicker oil to build pressure.
Zach
Posted by: Dave_Darling Oct 23 2018, 01:25 PM
Basically oils have changed a lot in the years since the 914 was engineered. It was pretty much a half-century ago; the engineering was done in the mid- to late-1960s.
You can run straight 30-weight in an unmodified engine if you want to. Make sure you use something with a decent amount of ZDDP in it.
You can also run 20/50 oil if you want to. They should both work. Again, use something with a good amount of ZDDP in it.
--DD
Posted by: Geezer914 Oct 23 2018, 02:01 PM
I live in NJ. Brad Penn 15/40
Posted by: IronHillRestorations Oct 23 2018, 05:57 PM
Brad Penn or Driven is the only thing I'd use or recommend
Posted by: bbrock Oct 23 2018, 06:54 PM
I see that everyone uses 20w-50 oil(mostly Castrol). The owners manual recommends straight 30 weight- This is confusing- I assume things have changed over the years-
I remember reading an old interview with a Porsche engineer many years ago that asked why Porsche was recommending straight weight over multi-weight. The engineer said at the time, multi-weight was fairly new and didn't have enough track record for them to feel comfortable recommending it at that time. Simple as that and they obviously got comfortable with it as time went on.
Posted by: yaimh56 Jul 17 2019, 08:37 AM
FYI, After reading through all the comments, talking to an experienced european mechanic and doing some research online to find a suitable engine oil for my 1970 914 I settled on Lucas Hot Rod & Classic motor oil with high levels of zinc, molybdenum and phosphorus needed for older car engines. Also it's readily available via Amazon, Summit Racing, etc at reasonable prices. It's not Brad Penn or Castrol (Old go to) but I've had very good results with Lucas products so I think it'll do.
https://lucasoil.com/products/hot-rod-high-performance
Listing of Zinc levels for Lucas Oils
https://lucasoil.com/pdf/Zinc_Values_MotorcycleOil.pdf
Posted by: wes Jul 17 2019, 12:08 PM
Any thoughts on Swepco 306 20w50?
Posted by: Firstcar Jul 17 2019, 12:46 PM
Didn’t know they made a 20W-50, but have used their 306 10W-40 and like it. Just scored a good deal on a case of Joe Gibbs Racing Driven DT50 and am looking forward to using that- don’t think it gets any better than that for a type IV.
Posted by: johnhora Jul 17 2019, 01:19 PM
It works well and a decent price point.
Posted by: jdamiano Jul 17 2019, 02:16 PM
Anyone use the Driven products. I need to do an engine and trans oil change and was thinking about using their stuff since they sponsor Octeenerfest.
Posted by: Justinp71 Jul 17 2019, 11:36 PM
I am going to try Mobil 1 15w-50 synthetic soon. It is readily available and I like the idea of it being synthetic. It also has large amounts of zinc, many people on the pelican board like it as well.
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