I've been working with Mark and Matt at 914 Rubber over the past few weeks to refine the installation process and shoot a video for their a-arm bushing kit. Happy to report that it's finally ready for primetime! Shout outs to Bruce and Cary for all their contributions as well.
And here's a video on how I removed the a-arms and bushings using a press and heat...
– 914 Rubber master cylinder install
– "Bench" bleeding in the car
– 914 Rubber Rebuilt steering rack with turbo tie rods
– Front wheel bearing replacement
Hope you enjoy my videos. Just trying to give back to this amazing community. Apologies in advance for worsening the addiction.
Have fun with all the innuendo. Can't wait to read the comments
These are a more difficult install. We could have made them smaller and easier to install, but they would have the issues Elephant mentioned. These need to have a very tight tolerance, this is how to do it.
Superb video as always!
Great video, looking forward to watching them all.
Maybe an electric drill to drive those nuts?
Great video on the bushing install.
Maybe a part two showing how to set up the bar to the drop links without preloading the bar?
Great video. Unfortunately, my 911 A arms are capped at one end. Gotta get a long pipe clamp.
A pair of leather work glows make things easier to handle than the oven mitt.
Great video and excellent marketing tool!
Now, how do I remove the new Uro bushings that are mounted on the refurbished arms that I got from Bruce???
Very nice job on the video!
Easy to follow and perfect for the DIY...
Thanks for sharing this
Press is an option I guess.
Heat gun; Freshly powder coated arms, never re-installed... Glass temperature for power paint is ~80C (Wiki)...
An other option would be to install them as is and replace them when they wear out in 1-2 years... . Probably the same situation though...
The companion video to this video...A-arm and bushing removal...is uploading to youtube now. Standby! Personally, I prefer the press. Way faster and less cancer.
I bought a 20 ton press from HF because I couldn't find a shop willing to press the bearings onto the axle of my 65 mustang. In a mustang the main thing keeping the axle on the car is the bearing itself, so I guess no one wanted the liability. Anyway, I thought the press would just become a coat rack, but I'm surprised at how often I use it.
It’s a 2 minute job with a torch but only if you are repainting the a arms. Heat the bracket until you see a little smoke and then twist off with a screw driver.
mepstein is right...it's only 2 minutes with the heat, but it feels much longer .
ok, removal video is up...link in the first post.
Powder cures at about 240-280 range (also depends on the powder). You should be able to heat to about 220, but you will have to be careful. This is one of the reasons I like paint. Sand it and re-shoot it.
Did you paint your arms or have them powder coated between the removal and installation videos?
They look great!
Thanks! I blasted and painted the arms. Mark makes a good point that it's way easier to touch up paint than powder coat. And it's likely that stones, etc. will chip whatever is on there. If you do powder coat, make sure you don't use it on the bushing area, as it's tight enough as it is. Powder coat is generally much thicker than paint.
Full disclosure...I used two sets of arms in these videos. If you look closely, you'll see that the ones I took off my car didn't have sway bar brackets. Another member here graciously gave me a set that did, and those are the ones I painted and used for the install video.
Powder coat works well for me because we have the setup in the shop and when I bring freshly done parts home, they don’t smell (a big concern with my wife). A good epoxy paint also works well if you prep it right.
Great video - I could have used this last week when I finished up a total refresh of my A-arms / front suspension . I did those with Elephant Racing bushings following the video on their website (with video quality that looks circa 1972 for some reason). Luckily I have another complete front suspension to refresh, and on that one I'll get to try out my 914Rubber bushings.
I had mine powder coated, and they do look awesome. You do have to be careful with masking the seating / bushing surfaces. I was not on the first set, and I had a project on my hands carefully sanding those back to metal once they came back from the shop. I then rattle-canned those surfaces for at least some protection. Whatever you do, also take a look down the inside of the A-Arm. There is likely to be rust inside that needs to be treated.
I ended up using a pipe clamp (like in the Elephant Racing video) that worked well on the front bushing / collar combination. On the rear it would not work. It wouldn't get the bushing on the A-Arm far enough to keep it from slipping right back off. Luckily I have a press, and that made quick work of it.
I was somewhat dreading this after the trailing arm bushing install I did about a year ago, but this process went much smoother.
I have a few suggested twists for this superb filmh
First, if you have a smooth floor, put something down to catch the soap. I am too old to slip and fall indoors. Ice outside happens no matter what.
Second is to use an impact gun on the tool side. It gives a faster, more even pressing, again saving time. You want to wrench at the tool end so you can watch the progress. An alternative that is a bit quicker yet is to make the double nut ahead of time and put that in the vise grips. This only works with the power tool if you have a long enough socket. I started using an impact gun with a gear puller when rebuilding the transmissions for my cars.
Might want to check out the elephant racing video as to why they suck
Yes they actually tested them, who would have thought ?
"slipping causes rapid wear"
In honor of our new install video we are running a special at $29 a set and everyday price of $34.94 now!
That and we will beat any competitors price by10%.
Better product better price what more can you ask for!
Oh yeah, a tool to help install!
Right here -
By the way the OE durometer is 92. You can't be 30% more!
Uhhmm I think this instructional video was a benefit to us all, as it would apply to any situation in which an original or reproduction bushing is needed.
That was the intent.
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