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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Anybody Have This 22mm Weltmeister Front Sway Bar?
Posted by: Lucky9146 Apr 20 2018, 09:52 PM
This sway bar here
My driver side looks like this
And my passenger side looks like this
Seems to be some room on either side of the bushing cup totaling abut 1.75 in. for the bar to wander off to one side as mine did. 
You can weigh in here on go to my thread page 31 http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=261197
Thanks!
Posted by: pete000 Apr 20 2018, 10:28 PM
I have that same bar but haven't had any issues with it drifting.
Posted by: Steve Apr 20 2018, 10:33 PM
I used to have that Weltmeister bar. The bushing should look the same on both sides with about an 1/8” sticking out on both sides. You center the bar with the arms flush to the bushing on both sides. They do have a tendency to move side to side. Either dump the whole thing and buy a tarret bar or buy some clamps on the inside from McMaster Carr.
Posted by: Lucky9146 Apr 20 2018, 11:51 PM
I have that same bar but haven't had any issues with it drifting.
Good to know, thanks at least I know one person with one so far! Glad yours is working OK.
Posted by: Lucky9146 Apr 20 2018, 11:58 PM
I used to have that Weltmeister bar. The bushing should look the same on both sides with about an 1/8” sticking out on both sides. You center the bar with the arms flush to the bushing on both sides. They do have a tendency to move side to side. Either dump the whole thing and buy a tarret bar or buy some clamps on the inside from McMaster Carr.
Thanks Steve. What I was saying is there seems to be a lot more room to be able to have the arms flush up to the bushings if I can have one bushing hanging out that far currently.
Probably will try to run it for a while with some spacers of some sort between the bushing and the arms. Was hoping to not have to pull the tank for the millionth time to add clamps but it may come to that
Anybody else have one of these and their experience with it?
Posted by: defianty Apr 21 2018, 12:48 AM
I have the same bar Jim. Although I've never run with it yet I did purchase two shaft collars with grubs to alleviate any lateral movement. Plan is to install them on the inner wheel well next to the sway bar support plates. I also got some large nylon washers to stop any contact.
I'm sure I got this idea from someone on here so hopefully they'll be along soon.with pictures.
One problem I did have was finding a 19mm collar. In the end I got 18mm and had a friend machine them out to size.
Posted by: Luke M Apr 21 2018, 07:59 AM
I have a brand new welt bar that I haven't installed yet. I do see the kit comes with 2 hose clamps which would clamp around the bar under the fuel tank. I would say this is to keep the bar from drifting left to right. I plan on replacing the clamps for collars when I do install it.
Posted by: Lucky9146 Apr 21 2018, 09:50 AM
I have the same bar Jim. Although I've never run with it yet I did purchase two shaft collars with grubs to alleviate any lateral movement. Plan is to install them on the inner wheel well next to the sway bar support plates. I also got some large nylon washers to stop any contact.
I'm sure I got this idea from someone on here so hopefully they'll be along soon.with pictures.
One problem I did have was finding a 19mm collar. In the end I got 18mm and had a friend machine them out to size.
Thanks, I guess I forgot to mention mine is a 22 mm bar. Hoping 22 is not too much got to get this thing on the road again and find out. I have a friend who may be able to help with collars / washers.
Posted by: jcd914 Apr 21 2018, 11:20 AM
I have dealt with this in a few ways.
First push the bushing all the way in to the bush cup mounted to the inner fended, they should only stick a short distance.
Then loosen the arms on the bar and work them in as far as they will go.
The arms clamp on the square end of the bar and can move around if loose or may not have been install pushed on to the bar as far as possible.
Now you will know how much gap you have to deal with.
I have had some where there was very little gap and the bar could only move back and forth a few mm.
If you have enough gap your bar will move side to side much, there are different ways to fill the gap.
However you deal with the gap you want to end up with the arms equally spaced on each side of the car in order to keep the geometry of the swaybar arms, drop links and A-arms the same.
The hose clamp the some kits come with is functional but I don't like it.
Clamp on collars work much better but you then might have metal rubbing against metal depending on where you install them.
I have always put them on the outside, between the swaybar arm and the bushing. It means you don't have to remove the fuel tank if you want to take the bar out or if a collar worked loose and needs to be tightened.
I have had spacers made of plastic bushing material (turcite), basically a pair of large plastic washers that fit over the bar and go between the arm and the bushing end or the bushing cup.
I have had wider bushing made up that have a step so the push into the bushing cup and stop against the outer edge and have a larger surface for the swaybar arm to rub against.
I have also (in a pinch) taken a PVC pipe fitting that fit over the bar and cut it into spacers to fit between the sway bar arm and the bushing to fill the gap.
Note: I did not do this on a customers car, not a real professional solution but it worked.
You just want the bar centered and set up with very little play to move side to side.
Jim
Posted by: jcd914 Apr 21 2018, 11:24 AM
Here is an example of a 19mm bar and the extra room there may be to move your swaybar arms in against the bushings or closer.
Jim
Posted by: Lucky9146 Apr 21 2018, 02:51 PM
I have dealt with this in a few ways.
First push the bushing all the way in to the bush cup mounted to the inner fended, they should only stick a short distance.
Then loosen the arms on the bar and work them in as far as they will go.
The arms clamp on the square end of the bar and can move around if loose or may not have been install pushed on to the bar as far as possible.
Now you will know how much gap you have to deal with.
I have had some where there was very little gap and the bar could only move back and forth a few mm.
If you have enough gap your bar will move side to side much, there are different ways to fill the gap.
However you deal with the gap you want to end up with the arms equally spaced on each side of the car in order to keep the geometry of the swaybar arms, drop links and A-arms the same.
The hose clamp the some kits come with is functional but I don't like it.
Clamp on collars work much better but you then might have metal rubbing against metal depending on where you install them.
I have always put them on the outside, between the swaybar arm and the bushing. It means you don't have to remove the fuel tank if you want to take the bar out or if a collar worked loose and needs to be tightened.
I have had spacers made of plastic bushing material (turcite), basically a pair of large plastic washers that fit over the bar and go between the arm and the bushing end or the bushing cup.
I have had wider bushing made up that have a step so the push into the bushing cup and stop against the outer edge and have a larger surface for the swaybar arm to rub against.
I have also (in a pinch) taken a PVC pipe fitting that fit over the bar and cut it into spacers to fit between the sway bar arm and the bushing to fill the gap.
Note: I did not do this on a customers car, not a real professional solution but it worked.
You just want the bar centered and set up with very little play to move side to side.
Jim
Jim
Thanks this was very helpful and I appreciate the picture too. This is the kind of stuff I was was looking for!
Posted by: wysri9 Apr 23 2018, 03:30 PM
I took a good look at mine and although this is only a test build things seem to to snug up nicely. I could detect no play between the bushings. here are some pics:-
Posted by: Lucky9146 Apr 23 2018, 03:55 PM
I took a good look at mine and although this is only a test build things seem to to snug up nicely. I could detect no play between the bushings. here are some pics:-
Looks great and thanks for the pics.
Your picture shows very well the large space from the arm to the cotter pin.I have my issue figured out. When the car came to me I thought it was set up as I had been told the car had seen 145 mph clocked at a track with a big 4. I should have checked it and did not.
It appears that the arms either were not tight or had walked outboard toward the cotter pin. I plan to put some type of spacer between the arm and the cotter pin just to ensure it does stay in place. Thanks again
Posted by: Lucky9146 Apr 25 2018, 10:53 AM
Finally came to the realization that the drop links on mine are incorrect and way too short.
This can be seen from the picture sent by wysri9 here. At the time this photo was posted I was more concerned with the slider arm and all the extra space to the cotter pin to digest this now obvious fact. It wasn't until I tried to reassemble that things just did not make sense.
Spoke with Jason at Paragon Products in Corpus Christie TX and he confirmed it. The drop link should be 6 7/8" long and mine is only 4 7/8' long.
Explains a lot. The front suspension was so pre-loaded and the A arms actually hung on the sway bar arms as opposed to the struts. Now I understand why it was so hard to get it apart. 
A full 2" too short?
Keep in mind I barely have this thing on the road, still sorting out the bugs and break the engine in, so very few miles yet to guage anything.
Parts on order.
Posted by: wysri9 Apr 25 2018, 01:03 PM
Glad the photos helped - sorry about the wonky allen bolt......It will be properly installed and torqued next time
Posted by: jcd914 Apr 25 2018, 05:30 PM
Finally came to the realization that the drop links on mine are incorrect and way too short.
This can be seen from the picture sent by wysri9 here. At the time this photo was posted I was more concerned with the slider arm and all the extra space to the cotter pin to digest this now obvious fact. It wasn't until I tried to reassemble that things just did not make sense.
Spoke with Jason at Paragon Products in Corpus Christie TX and he confirmed it. The drop link should be 6 7/8" long and mine is only 4 7/8' long.
Explains a lot. The front suspension was so pre-loaded and the A arms actually hung on the sway bar arms as opposed to the struts. Now I understand why it was so hard to get it apart.
A full 2" too short?
Keep in mind I barely have this thing on the road, still sorting out the bugs and break the engine in, so very few miles yet to guage anything.
Parts on order.
The correct length for your drop link is dependent on the ride height of your car.
Ideally the sway bar arm should be parallel to the ground when the car is settled on its suspension. So the length of the drop link would be different depending on your ride height. I have shortened many sets of drop links to match them to teh car they are going on.
I think the Weltmeister drop links are too long to begin with except for car sitting at full height.
I would wait to change the drop links until you can get the car on the ground and settled and see where the are is.
Jim
Posted by: 914forme Apr 25 2018, 06:36 PM
Only issue I would see is if it is so short it is causing a binding issue the joints due to extreme angles.
If it is hitting the tops of the fenders it is to long. Don't forget you have to run it up and down through its entire arch. Pop the torsion bar end cap and run it up and down. You can also see how your bumps steer is measure shock travel and do a lot of other things that you don't know until you get it all together.
BTW, I don't get how the arms hung off the sway bars unless in full drop the sway bar did not go into full drop on both sides. The bar should not have any preload on it from side to side, unless you only have one side of the car in the air. Then the bar is doing what it is supposed to do.
Posted by: Lucky9146 Apr 25 2018, 08:48 PM
Finally came to the realization that the drop links on mine are incorrect and way too short.
This can be seen from the picture sent by wysri9 here. At the time this photo was posted I was more concerned with the slider arm and all the extra space to the cotter pin to digest this now obvious fact. It wasn't until I tried to reassemble that things just did not make sense.
Spoke with Jason at Paragon Products in Corpus Christie TX and he confirmed it. The drop link should be 6 7/8" long and mine is only 4 7/8' long.
Explains a lot. The front suspension was so pre-loaded and the A arms actually hung on the sway bar arms as opposed to the struts. Now I understand why it was so hard to get it apart.
A full 2" too short?
Keep in mind I barely have this thing on the road, still sorting out the bugs and break the engine in, so very few miles yet to guage anything.
Parts on order.
The correct length for your drop link is dependent on the ride height of your car.
Ideally the sway bar arm should be parallel to the ground when the car is settled on its suspension. So the length of the drop link would be different depending on your ride height. I have shortened many sets of drop links to match them to teh car they are going on.
I think the Weltmeister drop links are too long to begin with except for car sitting at full height.
I would wait to change the drop links until you can get the car on the ground and settled and see where the are is.
Jim
This is an excellent point you make about ride height. My car is very low so maybe they were correct? I will check it out more. Thanks
Posted by: Lucky9146 Apr 26 2018, 11:10 PM
Finally came to the realization that the drop links on mine are incorrect and way too short.
This can be seen from the picture sent by wysri9 here. At the time this photo was posted I was more concerned with the slider arm and all the extra space to the cotter pin to digest this now obvious fact. It wasn't until I tried to reassemble that things just did not make sense.
Spoke with Jason at Paragon Products in Corpus Christie TX and he confirmed it. The drop link should be 6 7/8" long and mine is only 4 7/8' long.
Explains a lot. The front suspension was so pre-loaded and the A arms actually hung on the sway bar arms as opposed to the struts. Now I understand why it was so hard to get it apart.
A full 2" too short?
Keep in mind I barely have this thing on the road, still sorting out the bugs and break the engine in, so very few miles yet to guage anything.
Parts on order.
The correct length for your drop link is dependent on the ride height of your car.
Ideally the sway bar arm should be parallel to the ground when the car is settled on its suspension. So the length of the drop link would be different depending on your ride height. I have shortened many sets of drop links to match them to teh car they are going on.
I think the Weltmeister drop links are too long to begin with except for car sitting at full height.
I would wait to change the drop links until you can get the car on the ground and settled and see where the are is.
Jim
jcd914 is correct that the drop link is dependent on the ride height. My car is low.
I set the car on the suspension with the sway bar arms horizontal to the ground and the 4 7/8" drop links that I had fit perfectly!
Personally, I think the Weltmeister instructions suck.
Thank you jcd914
This is a great site! 
Posted by: 914Subaru Jul 13 2020, 08:57 PM
Lots of good information in this post. I finally got around to install a used Weltmeister sway bar that I purchased on ebay 10 years ago. It came with these u-bolt that I don't know what they are for other than I don't think I need them. Any thoughts?
Posted by: jcd914 Jul 14 2020, 01:56 AM
The U-bolts were to mount the bushing cup/mount for 914's without the holes and nuts in the inner fender panel.
If you car already had an OE sway bar or you or someone else added nut plates pr other reinforcement you won't need or want the U-bolts.
Jim
Posted by: JamesM Jul 14 2020, 04:18 PM
I had been told the car had seen 145 mph clocked at a track with a big 4.
I dont know how much I would have believed after hearing that statement.
Posted by: Steve Jul 14 2020, 04:33 PM
Lots of good information in this post. I finally got around to install a used Weltmeister sway bar that I purchased on ebay 10 years ago. It came with these u-bolt that I don't know what they are for other than I don't think I need them. Any thoughts?
Mine also came with those. They allow you to mount the bar without removing the gas tank. Downside is after awhile it will rip the metal be between the holes. I would remove the gas tank and install an inside reinforcement plate.
Posted by: 914Subaru Jul 19 2020, 09:49 PM
The U-bolts sure sounds like a bad idea. I used the 914ltd.com sway bar mounting brackets, they are very nice.
I found the sway-bar bangs back and forth with any slop. The upper links are rigid with plastic bushings that bind as the suspension goes up and down causing the sway bar to slam back and forth horizontally. I replaced the upper links with heim joints and it works smooth. You need to be mindful when setting up the alignment because of the extra freedom of movement. I only have 20 miles on this setup so time will tell.
Posted by: wndsrfr Jul 20 2020, 07:19 AM
The U-bolts sure sounds like a bad idea. I used the 914ltd.com sway bar mounting brackets, they are very nice.
I found the sway-bar bangs back and forth with any slop. The upper links are rigid with plastic bushings that bind as the suspension goes up and down causing the sway bar to slam back and forth horizontally. I replaced the upper links with heim joints and it works smooth. You need to be mindful when setting up the alignment because of the extra freedom of movement. I only have 20 miles on this setup so time will tell.
Slight hijack.... what is your rotor/hat/hub combo?
Posted by: 914Subaru Jul 20 2020, 07:35 AM
Brakes are;
944 turbo calipers (Brembo)
Custom hats
12" rotors (I forgot the brand)
911 hubs
Modified 911 struts
It fills the wheel and the 16x6 Fuchs wouldn't clear the calipers without wheel spacer. Also running hanging pedals with a power brake booster. Rear are 944 calipers with 911 rotors.
Posted by: 914Toy Jul 20 2020, 08:19 AM
22m is a lot of anti-role bar for most of our 914's, except perhaps for some serious track set up.
Posted by: 914Subaru Jul 20 2020, 09:15 PM
22m is a lot of anti-role bar for most of our 914's, except perhaps for some serious track set up.
Now that I have some miles on it I think I agree. I have my 22mm adjusted to the lightest setting and it is still on the stiff side. I am thinking about putting in the lathe and turning it down to 18mm. If you have a recommended diameter for street use let me know. Thanks
Posted by: 914Subaru Aug 9 2020, 09:24 AM
22m is a lot of anti-role bar for most of our 914's, except perhaps for some serious track set up.
It wasn't easy but I turned it down from 22mm to 19mm. It did make a favorable difference for this street car and if it wasn't so difficult to machine down I would reduce it more but I plan to live with it.
Posted by: Shivers Oct 22 2023, 05:40 PM
This sway bar here
My driver side looks like this
And my passenger side looks like this
Seems to be some room on either side of the bushing cup totaling abut 1.75 in. for the bar to wander off to one side as mine did.
You can weigh in here on go to my thread page 31 http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=261197
Thanks!
It looks like you have the arms clamped too far out. I’ve seen some use a spacer and a washer between the cotter pin and the arms. But mine have not moved.
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