In true 914 fashion the guys who I ordered them from made 8" rather than 7". So now I have to make a decision, stick with the 8" wheels and bash out of the rear fender a litle more or return them and get 7" wheels? These are 8" with 5" backspacing
I love the idea of the 8" wheels and they look real cool. Since this car is going to be a dedicated AX I guess 8" will work.
These wheels are crazy light weight. The box of 4 wheels with shipping materials weighed 42lbs!
I have another question for the SF Bay Area "club" members. Who in the South Bay Area can mount slicks on lightweight race wheels without screwing them up? I dont trust any of the guys in Santa Cruz with these babies!
I'll post some pictures soon, but I'm having trouble with my image server right now.
Can't wait to see, as I may order a set myself.
KT
bummer, the one time you get something "extra" and cannot use it.......
are your tires considered "race" or DOT???
if "race", then mounting them on the 8" wide rims might throw you in a class that you don't want to be in (cubic dollars)
lmao, grant. post the images here!
here's the deal with your 'bonus' inch: you'll be screwed in classing if you want to run cantilever slicks. not just in pca, but in scca i believe, too (EP and GT3 run 15x7's i think, if you take your car in that direction -- but i don't have a clue in this regard...)
i'd run 'em though! i can't wait to see you have to roll your fenders!!!
Looks like Grant will find himself in FM with *everything* , but, the motor.
I'm sure he has a PLAN for that, too.
KT
QUOTE (Mueller @ Jun 7 2005, 05:09 PM) |
bummer, the one time you get something "extra" and cannot use it....... are your tires considered "race" or DOT??? if "race", then mounting them on the 8" wide rims might throw you in a class that you don't want to be in (cubic dollars) |
With the money I saved I can get a header. or another set of tiars.
Attached image(s)
Attached image(s)
QUOTE (Joe Ricard @ Jun 7 2005, 05:40 PM) |
With the money I saved I can get a header. or another set of tiars. |
Grant,
If you already have your tires, what kind and size are they?
..
Knowing what I do now about my car. I don't need no lighter wheels. I need to be a better driver. When the day comes that I can drive with the big dogs CONSISTANTLY then I might spring for better wheels.
You are now out of excuses for not being fast. That 1.8L has more guts than you think when you can stand on the gas through a 60 ft slalom shoot though a chicago box never lifting off the gas. Hit 3rd gear through a sweeper GAINING speed!!!! Yes my friend your car will now do that with Hoosiers. You will totally shit yourself the 1st time you get it right.
and ditch the rear bar.
QUOTE (joseph222 @ Jun 7 2005, 06:47 PM) |
Grant, If you already have your tires, what kind and size are they? .. |
Who did you order them from?
WOW!
Neat!
M
QUOTE (porsha916 @ Jun 7 2005, 07:07 PM) |
Who did you order them from? :driving: |
QUOTE (grantsfo @ Jun 7 2005, 08:59 PM) | ||
205/50/15 DOT AX Hoosiers. |
QUOTE (joseph222 @ Jun 7 2005, 07:57 PM) | ||||
I would be concerned about the shape of the profile you will have fitting the 205s on the 8s. You may end up finding you really need 225s for those big 8" wheels. And if so, you've just added 4lbs of unsprung weight. And you will have to stretch your fenders even farther out. And remember, the smaller tires will provide higher operating temps for better traction. |
I've got my 205/50/15 Hoosier track tires and my Yokohama A032's on 5.5" Westerns with 4" backspacing and I really like it.
The "wrong" backspace effectively gives me a 1" wider track front and rear. It's like running 1/2" spacers.
How much tread width you get with the 8" rims, Grant, is what I'll be looking at.
I'd consider running a 15x7 rim with 3.5" backspace to widen my track and tire tread footprint if it makes that big a differance.
When will you debut the new skins?
KT
QUOTE (trekkor @ Jun 7 2005, 09:12 PM) |
I've got my 205/50/15 Hoosier track tires and my Yokohama A032's on 5.5" Westerns with 4" backspacing and I really like it. The "wrong" backspace effectively gives me a 1" wider track front and rear. It's like running 1/2" spacers. How much tread width you get with the 8" rims, Grant, is what I'll be looking at. I'd consider running a 15x7 rim with 3.5" backspace to widen my track and tire tread footprint if it makes that big a differance. When will you debut the new skins? KT |
I've got an *in* with the America's Tire here in Napa.
$30 mount and balance by the manager himself.
My A3S04's *should* be here this week.
KT
QUOTE (grantsfo @ Jun 7 2005, 10:53 PM) |
[/QUOTE] According to Hoosier optimum wheel width for the A3SO4 205/50/15's would be 7.5" to 8.5". 7.0" would fall below optimum range according to Hoosier on these specific tires. What is your 7.0" optimum wheel width calculation based from? |
QUOTE (trekkor @ Jun 7 2005, 09:12 PM) |
I've got my 205/50/15 Hoosier track tires and my Yokohama A032's on 5.5" Westerns with 4" backspacing and I really like it. The "wrong" backspace effectively gives me a 1" wider track front and rear. It's like running 1/2" spacers. How much tread width you get with the 8" rims, Grant, is what I'll be looking at. I'd consider running a 15x7 rim with 3.5" backspace to widen my track and tire tread footprint if it makes that big a differance. When will you debut the new skins? KT |
the guys at Roger Kraus Racing mount race tires on expensive, lightweight racing tires every day. i drove there from Reno to have them do mine.
I mounted mine myself. Well I have access to a tire machine. didn't balance them because after one event what's the point.
Make sure you use lots of that soapy solution. When the bead finally seat it sounded like a gun going off. Oh the warning label on the tire says not to use over 40 PIS seat bead. Thats good to know. Just a little difficult to wrestle on the rim it took two of us. and a good set of tire irons to keep the bead down in the middle of the rim section.
Rich, at HPH can mount them for you, Grant.
KT
QUOTE (trekkor @ Jun 8 2005, 05:45 AM) |
Rich, at HPH can mount them for you, Grant. KT |
A 205 is too narrow for an 8in wheel. The 225/50 is the correct size for a non catilevered tire. I could not get the 15*8 with a 5 in backspace to fit under the stock rear fenders even on my heavily massaged rear fenders. With a cantilevered slick (9.5x 23.5) I had to run a .25 in spacer to keep the tire from rubbing the body on the inside.
If you need more power I can help you with that. Look in the classifieds.
QUOTE (Brett W @ Jun 8 2005, 09:56 AM) |
A 205 is too narrow for an 8in wheel. The 225/50 is the correct size for a non catilevered tire. I could not get the 15*8 with a 5 in backspace to fit under the stock rear fenders even on my heavily massaged rear fenders. With a cantilevered slick (9.5x 23.5) I had to run a .25 in spacer to keep the tire from rubbing the body on the inside. If you need more power I can help you with that. Look in the classifieds. |
QUOTE (Joe Ricard @ Jun 8 2005, 04:43 PM) | ||
Brett please explain. 205/50-15 Hoosier on 8" rim I just did it and I think it works great Them suckers are wide as a 225 I would definately agree with a Kumho at least and inch narrower. |
QUOTE (Mueller @ Jun 8 2005, 03:55 PM) | ||||
'cause he knows more than the engineers that make the tire??? j/k tirerack list the following for a 205/50/15 comp tire Avon: max rec. width 7.5 Hoosiers: max rec. width 8 Kuhmo: max rec. width 7.5 |
Why are we withouts pics?
KT
The number 205 or 225 is the section width...max width orf the tire which is seldom the tread width.....even on Hoosiers.
Hoosier race tires are much different than a regular street tire. They are much wider than the same size street tire. For most tire applications the best fit for the tire wheel package is to have the wheel the same width as the tire tread face. This assures that the tire sidewall is properly loaded. On a tire such as a 205-50 on a 5.5 inch wheel the tire will actually bulge a little in the middle of the face of the tread surface. On a wheel that is wider than the face of the tread the cornering forces will act upon the sidewall in a manner that is beyond the design parameters of the shoulder of the tire. The side wall will be loaded not in a direct vertical manner. Thus causing a break down in the sidewall stiffness over time.
QUOTE (trekkor @ Jun 8 2005, 04:42 PM) |
Why are we withouts pics? KT |
pic of 205/50 Hoosier sitting perfectly on a 8" rim, ...slowly leaking.
Attached image(s)
Tasty...
What kind of leakdown?
Run 'em.
Check pressure between runs.
KT
QUOTE (trekkor @ Jun 8 2005, 06:54 PM) |
Tasty... What kind of leakdown? Run 'em. Check pressure between runs. KT |
nah -- they mount fine on my 6.5"s... the mounting lip goes so far in that i'd bet even a 6" rim would support the sidewalls enough...
as for the leak... god, that's a bummer. they didn't come with a fresh seal? ask Keizer for their sealing procedure -- they'll let you know they proper procedures and torque values and such... should not be real difficult though.
good luck grant -- let me know if there's anything i can do to help, i'd really like to see you run these on saturday.
n
QUOTE (nebreitling @ Jun 8 2005, 08:15 PM) |
nah -- they mount fine on my 6.5"s... the mounting lip goes so far in that i'd bet even a 6" rim would support the sidewalls enough... as for the leak... god, that's a bummer. they didn't come with a fresh seal? ask Keizer for their sealing procedure -- they'll let you know they proper procedures and torque values and such... should not be real difficult though. good luck grant -- let me know if there's anything i can do to help, i'd really like to see you run these on saturday. n |
1/2 can of fix-a-flat?
M
QUOTE (redshift @ Jun 8 2005, 08:34 PM) |
1/2 can of fix-a-flat? M |
I have a fair amount of experience with rebuilding Keizer 3 piece wheels.
The most common way for leaks to occur is during tire mounting or dismounting. A tire iron (or maybe even the inner edge of the tire itself) can inadverdently cut the silicone bead between the rim halves. Extreme care is required when installing/removing tires from such wheels.
Look for the leak on the assembled tire/wheel with a squirt bottle of soapy water. If it comes from the bolt area you are most likely screwed and will have to rebuild the wheel.
Rebuilding these wheels is not a simple process. You have to remove the 15 5/16" bolts, then separate the rim halves which are silicone glued together. Then you have to thoroughly clean off all the silicone from both halves.
To reassemble, apply fresh RTV to the mating surfaces and bolt together, carefully torquing new 5/16" bolts and nuts in a sequence (recommended by Keizer). (Even a little too much torque means the bolts may pop unexpectedly if you hit a pot-hole.) Next you have to apply a fresh RTV bead in the groove between the rim halves, being sure to get a good bond on the metal surfaces, and wait at least 24 hours before reinstalling tires. If you're careful you can probably do a better job than the factory.
Or you might try putting RTV into the location of the seal damage, without disassembling the wheel. I wouldn't attempt this on a track wheel, but you might get away with it on an ax wheel.
YMMV
Damn Chris, You have really helped me feel better about my Diamond Steelies. Wrestle the tire on and pump it up. Seat the bead with a mighty ka-pow. All is good. Next set of tires wil be 225/45-15. But hopefully that will be next year. at least that's what I am told from the chief of finance.
QUOTE (Racer Chris @ Jun 9 2005, 03:37 AM) |
I have a fair amount of experience with rebuilding Keizer 3 piece wheels. The most common way for leaks to occur is during tire mounting or dismounting. A tire iron (or maybe even the inner edge of the tire itself) can inadverdently cut the silicone bead between the rim halves. Extreme care is required when installing/removing tires from such wheels. Look for the leak on the assembled tire/wheel with a squirt bottle of soapy water. If it comes from the bolt area you are most likely screwed and will have to rebuild the wheel. Rebuilding these wheels is not a simple process. You have to remove the 15 5/16" bolts, then separate the rim halves which are silicone glued together. Then you have to thoroughly clean off all the silicone from both halves. To reassemble, apply fresh RTV to the mating surfaces and bolt together, carefully torquing new 5/16" bolts and nuts in a sequence (recommended by Keizer). (Even a little too much torque means the bolts may pop unexpectedly if you hit a pot-hole.) Next you have to apply a fresh RTV bead in the groove between the rim halves, being sure to get a good bond on the metal surfaces, and wait at least 24 hours before reinstalling tires. If you're careful you can probably do a better job than the factory. Or you might try putting RTV into the location of the seal damage, without disassembling the wheel. I wouldn't attempt this on a track wheel, but you might get away with it on an ax wheel. YMMV |
Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)