I post every so often in the what did you do to your 914 today thread. Figured I would start a separate thread and have some accountability to get this done.
My car is a 72 which along the way I have swapped the original 1.7 engine out for a 2.0 with DJET & a side shift gearbox.
The plan is to convert to a 1974 2.7 liter six with webers. Along the way I need to do some rust repair - which will be a helluva lot more challenging than the engine swap.
Here's what I am starting with.
The gearbox was leaking pretty bad, I had messed up installing the drive shaft seal on one side, the box was weeping everywhere else. I ended up pulling the stack so I could replace the gaskets around the intermediate plate. I am getting into territory which I have no business poking around in. Anyways its back together and all cleaned up.
Here's the engine. It is a 1974 2.7 engine (non S) with Weber carbs from one of our world members. It supposedly had a recent top end rebuild. I used one of those little cameras on a cord so I can peek down the plug holes, it has CIS pistons. I imagine this is all stock except for the carbs.
I have taken apart the carbs and cleaned it all up. I also put in a 123 distributor that I purchased from another world member.
I pulled the chainbox cover and found that this engine has mechanical tensioners. I am going to run it this way, may need to revisit that at a later time.
I bought a converted oil cooler which had a leak at the fitting. I had Patrick MS re-do the fitting with a clean and pressure test. Along with that I had the flywheel balanced and put in a stage 2 clutch package with an aluminum faced pressure plate from Kennedy. I used ARP flywheel bolts and tossed the washer as the instructions stated to do.
Well onto the not so fun stuff. Rust Repair. Several years ago I bought a mig welder and went crazy welding everything in sight. I welded in an engman inner long kit and got the longs too hot which fuquered up my door gaps. I was able to fix this with some good advice here on the site. Since then I have been leary of welding on the car.
Rear trunk floor is shot. I cut this out and have an RD panel to replace it. I also scored a heat shield from a member here. I tossed my old one years ago when it was rattling around in my swiss style trunk floor.
The rear panel on the car was replaced at some point in it's life and only one trunk support survived. I was able to fab up a couple of supports. I also had to weld in new metal to the rear panel as it was rusting where it met the trunk floor. This was an ugly job, I will edit this post later when I take a pic. Good thing the bumper covers that crap up!
There is just something VERY cool about the way your car looks, Travis. Just the way it is. I shouldn't like the green wheel centers...but I do, and am trying to think of a color that would look better in there and coming up empty. The gray is killer, too.
What tires are you running? That car is gonna be a lot of fun with a six in...
Moving onto the engine compartment. The top of my long in the hellhole has some holes and needs to be patched. Battery tray comes out too.
I got a shrinker and stretcher tool from HF, along with a cheap-o bending brake. I was able to make the hellhole patch out of 18g steel.
I cut out the offending metal and a piece of the lower firewall. I had to also cut a 2x8 inch patch on the side wall. When welding in the side wall patch the quarter panel pulled tight getting rid of a weird pucker at the leading edge of the rear quarter panel. Quite a bonus and reminder that I need to slow it down.
For the hell hole patch, i spread the welding out over a few days. No shrinking here and looks pretty good.
With all this welding that I have to do, it is time for some door braces. I used 3/4 black pipe from HD and some right and left thread rod ends & inserts from McMaster. The seat belt bolts were a smidgenfuck too large to fit through the rod ends. I put the bolts in the drill press and used a file to make it the right size. I made the brakets that attach to the longs from some rectangular tubing.
Note to self - I will need to get new seat belt bolts!
I have the transmission all bolted up to the engine. I also replaced the alternator with one that had an internal voltage regulator so won't have to use the stock relay board. Perry Kiehl fabricated a conversion wiring harness for me, it is some great craftsmanship. It would be a serious horror show to see what it would look like if I made one
A couple years ago I found a 914-6 engine tin set on ebay for a couple hundred bucks. It was raw steel so I had this powder coated in a matte black.
The side tins will need to go in after the engine is in the car, the polybronze rear bushing shaft sticks out farther than the stock pivot arm - found this out the hard way when taking the 4 cyl out and it hung up there.
Nice work Travis. I do like the green with the gray. Reminds me of Porsche’s 918 look. Keep it! Looks great.
I’ll be following. Good luck!
Looks great.. Fun projects.. Ping me if you need any help..
I like the green wheels! This looks like the start of an interesting thread so keep us posted as the progress continues.
Nice work! Should be a nice combo. Well worth the time and effort. Keep it up.
The long was stuffed with what looks to be Cotton. Damn rodents! I am not surprised I found a whole bunch of dry dog food stuffed in the heater tubes when I installed the inner long kit a long time ago
The longs are rotting from the inside out.
And a little view of the jack point repair. They cut through the backer part way up, which is kinda scary. However, they used plate steel for the repair and it was definitely strong.
Wow travis you are flying man. I've still got your spare sitting in my office at work. LOL! One of these days I'm going to stop tripping over it & put it in a box. That replacement panel looks great man. As does your patch for the hell hole. Keep it up man
Wow amazing job !!!
Been sidetracked for a few days. Battery tray patch in the sidewall. I took the car off the jackstands, I had to do some funky shimming of the jack stands to get the chassis level. Plus I need to figure out a plan to support the car while I start cutting into the longs.
Long steal tubes welded a front crossmember and tie into the rear suspension outer mount.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=76791 has a great version of this as does http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=262220&st=0.
I'll be watching
Still trying to decide if I am going Webber / PMO or straight to EFI. Any worry about elevation changes?
I am hoping that I do not need to build a frame.
I was looking at this thread http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=226585&st=40 where Rick had made wheel stands instead. My rust repairs will be about the same as that thread.
As for being worried about elevation changes with carbs? I am more worried about figuring out how to jet and tune them in the first place! I know that elevation changes can cause some funny running issues, but I don't think that is a deal killer.
Nice work Travis!
Thanks Bryan! Good to see you
I found my floor has a slope side to side at about 3/8 of an inch. If I use some left over 3/8 bamboo flooring on the drivers side it gets me level side to side.
For the back I used a couple 4x4 screwed together and then screwed the ramp stands to it in the back. I dont have any more ramp stands for the front, so I used jack stands at the forward lift points and then a single jack stand at the front trunk floor.
Its mostly level, I need to drop the drivers side rear coilover a 1/4 of an inch or so. I will do that tomorrow.
What do you all think?
I will change out the mechanical tensioners, but I want to get the conversion done and make sure it runs first.
I am doing a patrick motorsports Tank, Engine mount & front cooler. I have not tackled the shift rod yet. The Tangerine racing one looks good to me. I might try building my own from my spare tail shift linkage and side shift linkage.
Nice looking car and all the work looks good. But those jack stands.... that looks dangerous to me. I would like to see something more secure or at least some redundant support if you are going to be getting under that thing. There are some horror stories about failed jack stands.
Go forward but be safe.
What are you using for exhaust?
I’m a chicken shit. I would never work under a car set up like that. Be careful about putting torque on a fastener.
Travis I would screw a bunch of 2z4s in a stack to do it, then shim the bottoms with metal plate.
Easy and sturdy
This seemed to work also, but not sure I would trust my rotor to hold the car up
Just wondering on the carbs, as I tend to over think this stuff, and figure somebody would know who might deal with elevation changes more than I do. Just don't want to setup the car drive to Georgia for Okteenerfest and hate the drive due to miss behaving carbs.
Also I can say Tangerine Racings shift rod is a thing of beauty, yes it can be made, sometimes I prefer to support the vendors that support the community. That is why I would got your mount from Rich, Maddog, or Forgot his name and the oil tank from Ben. Spread the love to the guys trying to make my life easier. And yes I have purchased items from PMS also, so I get it. High quality pretty easy to deal with. completely get that idea.
I'll take a look at adding a 4x4 as a 2nd i-beam. Again they each rear is now one piece as the wood is screwed together and the ramp is screwed to the wood.
Yes the front is pretty far up there. I think I will take off the front wheels and stack them under the front for insurance. The 2x4 route looks good but I can't get the car much higher than it is. I would need to go up another 8 inches or a foot
PMS is 15 minutes away from me and they have done some work on another car for me in the past, so I try to keep that relationship alive where it makes sense. I bought a lot of these parts before Ben started making them.
For exhaust I have a used set of rusty looking 1 5/8 headers that I got off of another forum member. I have a used dansk 2 in 2 out sport muffler
Bob Saville , naro Motorsports for the engine mount.
I was going to buy from Bob as his looks like they are stronger than the PMS. But at that time he was out of stock
Thanks for all the input so far, I appreciate the feedback. I added a 2nd 4x4 to the I-beam and went a little screw crazy on the new and existing wood. It's not going anywhere.
Still thinking about what to do for extra support/insurance for the front. I have the jack stands oriented 90 degrees from one another so it does not rock on the same plane.
I throw extra wheels with tires under the car. I also have an old safe that I roll under sometimes. I’ll keep the jack under the car in addition to the stands. Like I said - I’m a chicken.
I added a 4th jack stand underneath the tunnel about 1/2 way back for the time being. I will stack the tires under the front as well.
I just ordered these jack stands. Pin lock and screw adjustment. Everyone needs at least 5 sets of jack stands https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085IJNNY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Now to try to get the drivers side 4 cyl mount out.
I need to post the picture of my no fail jack stands. They work for leveling.. I actually thought about making them and selling them but that could be a major liability.
The ramp stand is already screwed down to the wood, its all one piece.
Really great thread!
Consider using a water level to make sure your chassis is perfectly level before you start cutting things. Super easy to do and you will be guaranteed dead nuts on.
Your project looks well on it's way to success!
I used a lot of Patrick Motorsports' products in my conversion, and I'm glad I did. I took a ribbing from some fellow 914 "friends" (who will remain anonymous, and who have nothing but trouble with their cars) for being a spendthrift and a "retail buyer" for using costly PMS stuff.
It's quality stuff. I'd recommend the PMS rear shift linkage bar, mine has worked out very well.
I loved the wheels when I saw the car in Arizona, keep up the great work.
Thanks for the vote of confidence Larmo!
OK, I need to get something done today and the new jack stands wont arrive until saturday sometime. Did a tire stack and then a couple sections of leftover wood countertop, and a couple of 2x4's to bridge the gap.
Then got to work and finished cutting out that damn engine mount on the drivers side. What a bitch! I have just a little bit of cleanup and wire wheel it clean and I can call it good enough.
It was a Montana car that I got from Craig at camp914. Pretty happy with it so far.
The passenger side is a little worse off, I'll patch that because I am going in to cut into the bottom of the long there anyways.
Now, off to see about maybe getting the engine mount in.
I started grinding the paint away where I needed to weld in the mounts, and I cut part of the tailshifter flange off to give me more room to weld.
Prepped with UPOL Weld through primer. I then fitted up the mounts and traced around the welding area and ground back down to bare metal. I don't have good luck welding directly through the primer.
I then drilled some plug weld holes in the mounts. If I was to do it again, I would have only done the top two holes. Painted the backside with weld through primer, took off the primer on the plug weld holes and the edges of the mount.
All burned in. Not the prettiest, but it will work.
Tomorrow I will do the plug welds and grind the crown off the welds
Speaking from a welding instructor stand point you are best off not grinding the welds off for this as it adds strength. The only reason to grind a weld is to hide the seam.. It degrades the strength of the weld joint.
Understood. I am in the middle and just cropped off the tops. I'll get back whatever I lost with the plug welds I think.
Got it, thank you
Btw I like the project. Looks like a great start.
I see you took the /4 mounts out, I left mine in. I felt that they strengthen and square up the chassis at that critical point.
I know /6s don't have them, but I ran my oil lines through the driver's side one, just so it could make itself useful.
Cool! You're going to love that motor when its done! Carb'd flat sixes are amazing!
I thought about leaving the mounts in when I had them halfway out. I was getting frustrated that I might not be able to get them out without a huge leftover mess!
I like the overlays and am thinking about something similar. Ollie's 914-6 blog has something like that as well. I will decide once I get the longs all fixed up.
I took Ben's critique on my mounts and while I didn't really like to hear it, I needed to. And I am thankful to get the feedback. So I went out and did some practicing and fooling around with the controls. I am going to try to practice a little bit each day before I start doing any more weld in work. Also on plug & butt welds. It's easy to rush to get something done vs. trying the best you can and slow down a bit.
Beautiful! Obviously not done with a metal glue gun.
More practice today. I won't keep boring you with all this, but I am happy about the improvement and wanted to share.
I found that doing the plug welds, I got the best penetration by starting the puddle in the middle and pull out to the side of the hole, then do the same in 3, 6, 9, 12 & follow up with filling the hole. Where I filled the hole in one shot, amazingly I had the least penetration.
For the welds on the top, I redialed in my auto-darkening helmet so I could see better as i go. I did about 2" at a time and still need more practice were I start a weld next to the old weld (hope that makes sense). Also need to focus on using all the real estate on the side of the flat stock.
This is new metal to new metal, so no blowing holes. I practiced on some old sheet metal I cut out of the car and that was much more tricky to not blow holes.
Keep it up.. Now your up to the job. Carry on..
Let's pucker up and start to cut..
Btdt.. Oh what fun.
A bunch more cotton and mouse trash fell out of the hollow section of the lower firewall. Those little bastards can get everywhere!
Now to figure out where to start patching. I have the huge urge to cut out the jack point area, but knowing my luck the car will collapse in half. I'll need to patch what I cut (and a few more cuts, like the inside corner of the passenger compartment), then move onto the next spot.
I think I will cut these 2 parts next. I will need to figure out how to bend the replacement long pieces to make that smooth, rounded corner. Anyone have any insight on this? I have a cheap-o 30 inch HF brake. I guess finding some conduit or something to help make the shape.
I have the same cheapo HF bending brake and bending the radius on those inner longs is actually pretty easy. I welded a piece of 3/8" solid round stock to a piece of plate that I bent the patch around. Matches the radius very well. You can see it about half way down on this post: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=307290&view=findpost&p=2516927
A little more cancer cuts
Alright, I will get both sizes and some flat bar stock to create the recesses.
Scrubbed things down a bit more with a smaller sized wire brush I found, then hosed it down with Metal Prep. That stuff has some STANK.
Found it! Thanks for the tip and thanks to Ben to show us how it's done.
I only need to worry about the first 2 recesses (left)
That would save me some serious time!
I would need from here to here with the flange that meets the outside cover on the bottom, and the radius curve on the inside that goes up about 1.5 inches in height.
Brent, thanks for the tip on the round bar. 1/2 and 3/8 round bar works out great.
I welded the bars onto some 1/4x1.5 flat stock for my cheap-0 HF brake. Then tested it out on some 20g.
Either way would be fantastic!
Patched a small part of long and put a backer in place over the original backer. I will have to jigsaw puzzle that part back together. Will have some pics tomorrow. Welding upside sucks, I think I need to seriously bump up the wire speed, as soon as a good puddle started it wanted to drop out onto my chest LOL.
I cleaned up the floor section that I removed and the the back part of it was super pitted and bent like tin foil. I fabbed a patch up, which was a bit of a chore to make that corner. But it seemed to work out. Blow a bunch of holes trying to section in the flange with the firewall section.
Forgot a pic of the good looking side
I put in the backing panel against the inside long wall. I had to leave a gap so I could get the welding gun in there to weld to the side of the long. Then added in a filler piece with a flange so I could plug weld and run a stitch at the seam. Its a little ugly, but it will be covered up.
Went on to make the bottom of the long to cover the same area. Made 2 recess to replicate the original long. I made them about a 1/4 to wide, and thought hard about making another panel. Then I said screw it, it will all be covered by seam sealer anyways. It's in, I'll share pics tomorrow for that.
Patch is in. Had to grind down some the welds to get the floor pan piece to fit flush.
This cut exercised my pelvic floor pretty good. Looks like I am just about into all good metal, may need to cut another inch higher. I haven't poked around in there, but I may need to cut out the divot for the -4 engine mount. Not sure if it is worth trying to replicate that divot part.
Looked a little further and the bump for the -4 mount indentation had to come out. You can see the backing piece is totally gone.
After cutting this out I was able to get the backer off and I think I can save this piece.
I am officially sick of rust repair, LOL.
I made a patch for the inner long, outer long and created the 2nd layer backing for both. I was able to patch in the -4 cyl bump too.
A little more cleanup that needs to be done, still thinking whether or not I want to do an overlay as suggested before.
Floo no mo..
The lower rear firewall compartment was full of mouse crap and the floor under there was weak. I don't want to have to re-do any of these repairs, so time to cut..
I could have got away with a short rear floorpan piece. But just a few bucks more and piece of mind, I went with the full back half.
I will have to do some patching of the lower firewall, and as luck would have it I found a crack in the long on the drivers side. At least I am all practiced up from the passenger side.
Was the crack near the e-brake handle?
When I did the engman kit there was a crack by the ebrake handle I repaired that before I hot glued the kit in.
This crack is on the bottom of the long. Lemme go take a pic
The e-brake crack is common on early cars.
I didn't have any cracks on the interior of the long but since my floors were totally rotted, the rust had made leetle teeny holes at places at the junction of the long and floor. I made some inner/bottom reinforcement and fixed er up. It's better now to accept the new floor pieces.
The stress crack is not limited to early cars, I've seen it in probably 1/2 of all 914's
Oh, I love this piece you added in!
Thanks Travis - it goes all the way back to where the rear reinforcement kit takes over. With the new drivetrain, reinforced trailing arms and big fat tires, I figured a little extra strength is worth the weight I've added. Working on the other side now...
That particular spot never seems to get any extra beef when people do the inner kit and the engine bay reinforcements. In my opinion it becomes the new the weak spot.
Cut out the offending metal. The crack is a little rusty on the bottom, but flip it over and you can see the crack in the backer as well. I would guess this is from the engman kit I put in and the 250lb rear springs I have been running. But, who knows?
Go big or go home. Scored an unused 25mm SRP sway bar. I bought a maddog front swaybar reinforcing panel that I will put in too.
Another goodie, vent and jet kit for my webers. The carbs I have now are setup for a 2.0t engine with 30mm vents. I went with a 32mm vent & jet kit from partsklassic.
Also, not pictured is rear swaybar mounts from Brad Mayuer.
I snatched up a MSD coil and plug wires from Forrest.
And I picked up a 914-6 rear bumper from Hill in Scottsdale. I got to see his -6 he is putting back on the road.
I'll try not to be a slacker and not post pics.
I also ordered a tunnel fuel line kit, suspension brace heim joints, -6 shift rod kit from Tangerine Racing.
Looking good. I want that rear bumper man. So shiny
I've gotta admit, I never would have guessed that your car had 250# rear springs in it from the way it rode at Rt66.... it seemed very compliant and handled well. I'll be pushing more weight in the back end and ordered 225# springs the other day - now I'm rethinking my strategy.
Its pretty balanced with the 22mm torsion bars up front and 250lbs in the rear. Get it on some crappy roads and you'll be bouncing around pretty good. I intend to go down to 21 or maybe even 20mm torsion bars with my new big bar up front and try 175's in the rear with a rear swaybar.
Easy come, easy go. I sold the SRP bar to Hans and have the Welt bar in the classifieds. I didn't understand that the hollow 25mm bar is the same stiffness as my solid 22 bar.
I ordered a 32mm .095 bar from Tangerine Racing.
I was able to patch where I had the crack in the frame rail on the drivers side. I will add a reinforcement to this area on both the driver and passenger side.
forgot a pic.. When I weld this in it will tie right to the existing stiffening kit in the corner, along the seam of the inner side of the frame rail and wrap up to the heater duct. I will worry about the engine compartment side at a later time. Need to get this in so I can move on with the floor replacement.
I am also cutting about an inch up on the lower firewall and patching that area before the floors go in.
Not much to report on progress.
I have the floors partially done, the perimeter welds are in, still need to plug weld along the interior and do the butt weld from old floor to new.
Jamie Rust sent me a little gift, a 5 lug spare. I probably would have driven around without one until I learned my lesson the hard way, I appreciate the gift!
I also received new SS fuel lines and a tangerine shift linkage kit,. I picked up some Monoballs for the front struts that I found in the classifieds here.
Very cool. I need to get a 5 lug spare as well..
Engine shelf is in.
As you can see the in the pic above, the trunk pivot looks like a booger farm.
Lots of braze and some weld, looks like this was attempted to be repaired a couple of times. Good thing I took this out, it was cracked and smashed.
The wall behind the pivot has given way and I will need to patch. I am a bit worried about access and needing that patch to not fail in the future.
Hinge patch piece is in and the hinge is as well.
Moving onto reinforcing the frame rail in the engine compartment. I wasn't sure about recreating the -4 mount divot, but went for it. Turned out decent enough that it wont go in the scrap pile. I will go around the bottom of the frame rail and make the remainder of the divot there, I think it will be easier to do. Then weld the 2 pieces together as one - then hot glue it into the car.
I am not going to commit to welding this in unless I can get the drivers side to turn out the same.
Driver side is complete. I was going to recreate the divot piece entirely, but I think I will leave it like this and stitch it on in. Bending a very small peice of 14g into a cup shape and have it fit, then trim to size sounds like a half day ordeal for my skillset.
Good call! I had to recreate those $%^#ing divots on both sides and it was no fun. I need the 4-banger mounts so no other option. Then I got to cut one of them open and do it again when it was time to reinstall the mount because I didn't get it quite right. The less you have to do with those divots, the better. Fantastic work. Enjoying watching the progress.
Thanks Brent, I appreciate the kind words. This turned out better than I expected.
Looks very similar to what I did..
Finished making the passenger side reinforcement. Got most of the driver's side welded in. I had a few challenges with weld contamination, otherwise it's ok. I will finish this up tomorrow and then onto the other side.
Hijacking my own thread. Did a distributor rebuild for the SC and new bronze shift coupler bushings. The car has been running hot and takes its time getting back to idle from cruise once warm, at 94k miles it was time.
I got a nice kit from PartsKlassic for the rebuild. I hope i didnt jack anything up
I got both reinforcements welded in, in the engine compartment.
I needed to find something to do for my lunch hour. I have the reinforcement plates for the front swaybar from Maddog. They are 16g, I used them as a template and made a pair out of my leftover 14g. Overkill? maybe. I want to run a smaller torsion bar and a big swaybar, and why the hell not. Plus I had to hog out the swaybar hole for the 31mm bar. i hope to get that this week! Excited about that.
I made my own stiffness out 14 ga for everything. I like the way you think.
Giddyup! I don't feel so foolish now
SC distr. rotate the wrong way wont go in your 2.4
end of hyjack
That's good, I put it back into the SC. Got lucky and fired up on the first try and runs much better at low rpms. I have a 123 distributor for the 2.7
I think those plates are overkill at 16ga.
have you drilled your door handles yet...if not no worries on weight
I was gonna take out the handles completely and use a piece of rope with a knotted end.
I shitcanned the front reinforcements. The maddog ones and the ones I made needed some extra trimming to make it fit. I had previously welded in the backing plates and fixed the crack in the tub, from the old swaybar that didn't have the backing plates. We will see how it goes as is.
I also traded out my 22mm torsion bars with Yeahmag for his 21mm bars.
When I pulled the front struts away to open up the swaybar holes I found that one of my Koni's had bit the dust. I bought them 15 years ago and don't have a receipt for a warranty rebuild. I will have to find someone who can rebuild them for me, I hear that not many places rebuild the Koni's and the wait time is pretty long.
I got a surprise from Tangerine Racing this morning.
There's a trick to setting up the anti-sway bar so there's no binding. Doing this will go a long way to preventing stress cracks in the future.
Bolt up both bushing brackets and slide the bar in until it nearly touches the other side. Determine which way it needs to be moved to line up perfectly. Pull the bar back out most of the way and lean on it in the direction needed to bend the chassis so next time you slide it in it will go right into the other bushing. It may take 2 or 3 tries to line it up just right. Then follow the same procedure from the other side of the car.
After doing this it should be possible to rotate the bar by hand after it's fully inserted - without the arms attached.
Put some bearing grease on both bushings when you're ready to permanently install the bar.
Travis your welds are really shaping up.. Good job.
Moving onto the inside. The car was crashed at some point and the hump below the seat belt pocket was crushed up pretty good. Hardly noticeable when the relay board was in place. I was able to beat it mostly back into shape, but have a crack in the metal. This is going to be a bit tricky for me to make a patch piece.
That's an impressive start! You are doing better than me. I had to patch the little bulge where the hood release pull attaches which is a similar PITA dome. I wound up having to make a relief cut to pull the metal around to form the dome. Nice work on yours!
I am going to make another piece for the firewall. I have the basic shape down, but when I looked at the passenger side I see that it should be a little more angular. If that doesn't work I will continue on with the piece I have.
In the meantime i took out the rest of my hood and decklid hinges out for Oscar's spa treatment. And.. I think i need another hinge bracket.
I got a care package from Ben today. Turns out i had a tire mount from my last RD purchase. Looks like it will line up pretty good, tire will be lifted about an inch off the floor and still be below the bulkhead.
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