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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Travis' 72 914-6 Conversion

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 4 2018, 11:32 PM

I post every so often in the what did you do to your 914 today thread. Figured I would start a separate thread and have some accountability to get this done.

My car is a 72 which along the way I have swapped the original 1.7 engine out for a 2.0 with DJET & a side shift gearbox.

The plan is to convert to a 1974 2.7 liter six with webers. Along the way I need to do some rust repair - which will be a helluva lot more challenging than the engine swap.

Here's what I am starting with.


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Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 4 2018, 11:33 PM

Out comes the 2.0




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Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 4 2018, 11:37 PM

The gearbox was leaking pretty bad, I had messed up installing the drive shaft seal on one side, the box was weeping everywhere else. I ended up pulling the stack so I could replace the gaskets around the intermediate plate. I am getting into territory which I have no business poking around in. Anyways its back together and all cleaned up.


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Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 4 2018, 11:51 PM

Here's the engine. It is a 1974 2.7 engine (non S) with Weber carbs from one of our world members. It supposedly had a recent top end rebuild. I used one of those little cameras on a cord so I can peek down the plug holes, it has CIS pistons. I imagine this is all stock except for the carbs.

I have taken apart the carbs and cleaned it all up. I also put in a 123 distributor that I purchased from another world member.

I pulled the chainbox cover and found that this engine has mechanical tensioners. I am going to run it this way, may need to revisit that at a later time.

I bought a converted oil cooler which had a leak at the fitting. I had Patrick MS re-do the fitting with a clean and pressure test. Along with that I had the flywheel balanced and put in a stage 2 clutch package with an aluminum faced pressure plate from Kennedy. I used ARP flywheel bolts and tossed the washer as the instructions stated to do.


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Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 5 2018, 12:01 AM

Well onto the not so fun stuff. Rust Repair. Several years ago I bought a mig welder and went crazy welding everything in sight. I welded in an engman inner long kit and got the longs too hot which fuquered up my door gaps. I was able to fix this with some good advice here on the site. Since then I have been leary of welding on the car.

Rear trunk floor is shot. I cut this out and have an RD panel to replace it. I also scored a heat shield from a member here. I tossed my old one years ago when it was rattling around in my swiss style trunk floor.

The rear panel on the car was replaced at some point in it's life and only one trunk support survived. I was able to fab up a couple of supports. I also had to weld in new metal to the rear panel as it was rusting where it met the trunk floor. This was an ugly job, I will edit this post later when I take a pic. Good thing the bumper covers that crap up!


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Posted by: horizontally-opposed Jun 5 2018, 12:03 AM

Nice ride.

There is just something VERY cool about the way your car looks, Travis. Just the way it is. I shouldn't like the green wheel centers...but I do, and am trying to think of a color that would look better in there and coming up empty. The gray is killer, too.

What tires are you running? That car is gonna be a lot of fun with a six in...

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 5 2018, 12:18 AM

Moving onto the engine compartment. The top of my long in the hellhole has some holes and needs to be patched. Battery tray comes out too.

I got a shrinker and stretcher tool from HF, along with a cheap-o bending brake. I was able to make the hellhole patch out of 18g steel.

I cut out the offending metal and a piece of the lower firewall. I had to also cut a 2x8 inch patch on the side wall. When welding in the side wall patch the quarter panel pulled tight getting rid of a weird pucker at the leading edge of the rear quarter panel. Quite a bonus and reminder that I need to slow it down.

For the hell hole patch, i spread the welding out over a few days. No shrinking here and looks pretty good.




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Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 5 2018, 12:22 AM

QUOTE(horizontally-opposed @ Jun 4 2018, 11:03 PM) *

Nice ride.

There is just something VERY cool about the way your car looks, Travis. Just the way it is. I shouldn't like the green wheel centers...but I do, and am trying to think of a color that would look better in there and coming up empty. The gray is killer, too.

What tires are you running? That car is gonna be a lot of fun with a six in...


Thanks Pete!

I have matching green positive porsche side strip decals, they will go on one of these days. I have since changed the green center caps out for polished ones. I am running 205x55x16 Bridgestone RE11a. These things have a huge carcass - like a 225. I had to do ugly, UGLY things to the wheel wells to make them fit in the rear.


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Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 5 2018, 12:28 AM

With all this welding that I have to do, it is time for some door braces. I used 3/4 black pipe from HD and some right and left thread rod ends & inserts from McMaster. The seat belt bolts were a smidgenfuck too large to fit through the rod ends. I put the bolts in the drill press and used a file to make it the right size. I made the brakets that attach to the longs from some rectangular tubing.

Note to self - I will need to get new seat belt bolts!


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Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 5 2018, 12:30 AM

Oh, along the way I cleaned up the engine compartment and under the rear trunk. I also took the plunge and cut holes for the Patrick MS oil tank.


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Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 5 2018, 12:42 AM

I have the transmission all bolted up to the engine. I also replaced the alternator with one that had an internal voltage regulator so won't have to use the stock relay board. Perry Kiehl fabricated a conversion wiring harness for me, it is some great craftsmanship. It would be a serious horror show to see what it would look like if I made one laugh.gif

A couple years ago I found a 914-6 engine tin set on ebay for a couple hundred bucks. It was raw steel so I had this powder coated in a matte black.

The side tins will need to go in after the engine is in the car, the polybronze rear bushing shaft sticks out farther than the stock pivot arm - found this out the hard way when taking the 4 cyl out and it hung up there.


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Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 5 2018, 12:55 AM

Sometime in the past both jack points were replaced. I think they used some steel plate for this.

Under the long is this little hole, tip of the iceberg..


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Posted by: rick 918-S Jun 5 2018, 04:01 AM

Very memorable day! Remember that Prius... Car is looking great! Keep going!

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Posted by: Dion Jun 5 2018, 05:51 AM

Nice work Travis. I do like the green with the gray. Reminds me of Porsche’s 918 look. Keep it! Looks great.
I’ll be following. Good luck!

Posted by: mb911 Jun 5 2018, 06:31 AM

Looks great.. Fun projects.. Ping me if you need any help..

Posted by: JOEPROPER Jun 5 2018, 07:08 AM

I like the green wheels! This looks like the start of an interesting thread so keep us posted as the progress continues.

Posted by: 914dave Jun 5 2018, 07:22 AM

Nice work! Should be a nice combo. Well worth the time and effort. Keep it up.

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 5 2018, 04:16 PM

QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Jun 5 2018, 03:01 AM) *

Very memorable day! Remember that Prius... Car is looking great! Keep going!

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That was a great event, and a fun road in the park!

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 5 2018, 04:18 PM

With that last photo of the replaced jack point and that itty bitty hole - I started to poke around.


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Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 5 2018, 04:26 PM

The long was stuffed with what looks to be Cotton. Damn rodents! I am not surprised I found a whole bunch of dry dog food stuffed in the heater tubes when I installed the inner long kit a long time ago

The longs are rotting from the inside out.


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Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 5 2018, 04:29 PM

And a little view of the jack point repair. They cut through the backer part way up, which is kinda scary. However, they used plate steel for the repair and it was definitely strong.


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Posted by: JRust Jun 5 2018, 05:44 PM

Wow travis you are flying man. I've still got your spare sitting in my office at work. LOL! One of these days I'm going to stop tripping over it & put it in a box. That replacement panel looks great man. As does your patch for the hell hole. Keep it up man

Posted by: Coondog Jun 5 2018, 06:04 PM

Wow amazing job !!!

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 12 2018, 06:08 PM

Been sidetracked for a few days. Battery tray patch in the sidewall. I took the car off the jackstands, I had to do some funky shimming of the jack stands to get the chassis level. Plus I need to figure out a plan to support the car while I start cutting into the longs.


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Posted by: 914forme Jun 12 2018, 06:19 PM

Long steal tubes welded a front crossmember and tie into the rear suspension outer mount.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=76791 has a great version of this as does http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=262220&st=0.

I'll be watching

Still trying to decide if I am going Webber / PMO or straight to EFI. Any worry about elevation changes?

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 12 2018, 07:16 PM

I am hoping that I do not need to build a frame.

I was looking at this thread http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=226585&st=40 where Rick had made wheel stands instead. My rust repairs will be about the same as that thread.

As for being worried about elevation changes with carbs? I am more worried about figuring out how to jet and tune them in the first place! I know that elevation changes can cause some funny running issues, but I don't think that is a deal killer.

Posted by: bryanc Jun 12 2018, 08:57 PM

Nice work Travis!

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 12 2018, 11:45 PM

Thanks Bryan! Good to see you beerchug.gif

I found my floor has a slope side to side at about 3/8 of an inch. If I use some left over 3/8 bamboo flooring on the drivers side it gets me level side to side.

For the back I used a couple 4x4 screwed together and then screwed the ramp stands to it in the back. I dont have any more ramp stands for the front, so I used jack stands at the forward lift points and then a single jack stand at the front trunk floor.

Its mostly level, I need to drop the drivers side rear coilover a 1/4 of an inch or so. I will do that tomorrow.

What do you all think?


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Posted by: porschetub Jun 12 2018, 11:54 PM

QUOTE(Travis Neff @ Jun 5 2018, 05:32 PM) *

I post every so often in the what did you do to your 914 today thread. Figured I would start a separate thread and have some accountability to get this done.

My car is a 72 which along the way I have swapped the original 1.7 engine out for a 2.0 with DJET & a side shift gearbox.

The plan is to convert to a 1974 2.7 liter six with webers. Along the way I need to do some rust repair - which will be a helluva lot more challenging than the engine swap.

Here's what I am starting with.


Nice car ,that paint drooley.gif drooley.gif ,welcome to the madness of a six conversion,looks like you are well on the way with some great parts already.
Try to look into replacing the solid chain tentioners they are for cam setup or race engines that get freshened often,they place unwanted load on the chains and intermediate shaft and bearings.
Buy some good used mechanical ones and rebuild them,pretty sure the rebuild kits are still for sale,fit chain saver collars and you will be golden.
What plans have you for an engine mount,oil tank and shifter rod?.
Keep up the good work ,I personally enjoy six conversions ,the finished job is the best part when folks find out after a first test drive how well they go beerchug.gif .

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 13 2018, 12:02 AM

I will change out the mechanical tensioners, but I want to get the conversion done and make sure it runs first.

I am doing a patrick motorsports Tank, Engine mount & front cooler. I have not tackled the shift rod yet. The Tangerine racing one looks good to me. I might try building my own from my spare tail shift linkage and side shift linkage.

Posted by: rick 918-S Jun 13 2018, 05:22 AM

QUOTE(Travis Neff @ Jun 13 2018, 12:45 AM) *

Thanks Bryan! Good to see you beerchug.gif

I found my floor has a slope side to side at about 3/8 of an inch. If I use some left over 3/8 bamboo flooring on the drivers side it gets me level side to side.

For the back I used a couple 4x4 screwed together and then screwed the ramp stands to it in the back. I dont have any more ramp stands for the front, so I used jack stands at the forward lift points and then a single jack stand at the front trunk floor.

Its mostly level, I need to drop the drivers side rear coilover a 1/4 of an inch or so. I will do that tomorrow.

What do you all think?


agree.gif that should work welder.gif sawzall-smiley.gif smash.gif welder.gif

Posted by: daytona Jun 13 2018, 06:02 AM

Nice looking car and all the work looks good. But those jack stands.... that looks dangerous to me. I would like to see something more secure or at least some redundant support if you are going to be getting under that thing. There are some horror stories about failed jack stands.
Go forward but be safe.

Posted by: mb911 Jun 13 2018, 06:19 AM

What are you using for exhaust?

Posted by: mepstein Jun 13 2018, 06:28 AM

I’m a chicken shit. I would never work under a car set up like that. Be careful about putting torque on a fastener.

Posted by: 914forme Jun 13 2018, 10:08 AM

Travis I would screw a bunch of 2z4s in a stack to do it, then shim the bottoms with metal plate.

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Easy and sturdy

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This seemed to work also, but not sure I would trust my rotor to hold the car up blink.gif

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Just wondering on the carbs, as I tend to over think this stuff, and figure somebody would know who might deal with elevation changes more than I do. Just don't want to setup the car drive to Georgia for Okteenerfest and hate the drive due to miss behaving carbs.

Also I can say Tangerine Racings shift rod is a thing of beauty, yes it can be made, sometimes I prefer to support the vendors that support the community. That is why I would got your mount from Rich, Maddog, or headbang.gif Forgot his name headbang.gif and the oil tank from Ben. Spread the love to the guys trying to make my life easier. And yes I have purchased items from PMS also, so I get it. High quality pretty easy to deal with. completely get that idea.

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 13 2018, 10:50 AM

I'll take a look at adding a 4x4 as a 2nd i-beam. Again they each rear is now one piece as the wood is screwed together and the ramp is screwed to the wood.

Yes the front is pretty far up there. I think I will take off the front wheels and stack them under the front for insurance. The 2x4 route looks good but I can't get the car much higher than it is. I would need to go up another 8 inches or a foot

PMS is 15 minutes away from me and they have done some work on another car for me in the past, so I try to keep that relationship alive where it makes sense. I bought a lot of these parts before Ben started making them.

For exhaust I have a used set of rusty looking 1 5/8 headers that I got off of another forum member. I have a used dansk 2 in 2 out sport muffler

Posted by: mepstein Jun 13 2018, 11:19 AM

Bob Saville , naro Motorsports for the engine mount.

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 13 2018, 11:27 AM

I was going to buy from Bob as his looks like they are stronger than the PMS. But at that time he was out of stock

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 13 2018, 01:31 PM

Thanks for all the input so far, I appreciate the feedback. I added a 2nd 4x4 to the I-beam and went a little screw crazy on the new and existing wood. It's not going anywhere.

Still thinking about what to do for extra support/insurance for the front. I have the jack stands oriented 90 degrees from one another so it does not rock on the same plane.


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Posted by: sixnotfour Jun 13 2018, 03:04 PM

good work welder.gif

Posted by: mepstein Jun 13 2018, 03:35 PM

I throw extra wheels with tires under the car. I also have an old safe that I roll under sometimes. I’ll keep the jack under the car in addition to the stands. Like I said - I’m a chicken.

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 13 2018, 03:48 PM

I added a 4th jack stand underneath the tunnel about 1/2 way back for the time being. I will stack the tires under the front as well.

I just ordered these jack stands. Pin lock and screw adjustment. Everyone needs at least 5 sets of jack stands laugh.gif https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085IJNNY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now to try to get the drivers side 4 cyl mount out.

Posted by: mb911 Jun 13 2018, 03:55 PM

I need to post the picture of my no fail jack stands. They work for leveling.. I actually thought about making them and selling them but that could be a major liability.

Posted by: Mueller Jun 13 2018, 04:10 PM

QUOTE(Travis Neff @ Jun 13 2018, 12:31 PM) *

Thanks for all the input so far, I appreciate the feedback. I added a 2nd 4x4 to the I-beam and went a little screw crazy on the new and existing wood. It's not going anywhere.

Still thinking about what to do for extra support/insurance for the front. I have the jack stands oriented 90 degrees from one another so it does not rock on the same plane.

I'd either screw those stands to the wood below or strap them down.

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 13 2018, 05:28 PM

The ramp stand is already screwed down to the wood, its all one piece.

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 13 2018, 05:29 PM

QUOTE(mb911 @ Jun 13 2018, 02:55 PM) *

I need to post the picture of my no fail jack stands. They work for leveling.. I actually thought about making them and selling them but that could be a major liability.


Please do!

Posted by: mepstein Jun 13 2018, 06:24 PM

QUOTE(mb911 @ Jun 13 2018, 05:55 PM) *

I need to post the picture of my no fail jack stands. They work for leveling.. I actually thought about making them and selling them but that could be a major liability.

Patent them and sell the patent to one of the big manufacturers

Posted by: djb Jun 13 2018, 10:10 PM

Really great thread!

Consider using a water level to make sure your chassis is perfectly level before you start cutting things. Super easy to do and you will be guaranteed dead nuts on.

https://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Water-Level

David

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 13 2018, 10:40 PM

QUOTE(djb @ Jun 13 2018, 09:10 PM) *

Really great thread!

Consider using a water level to make sure your chassis is perfectly level before you start cutting things. Super easy to do and you will be guaranteed dead nuts on.

https://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Water-Level

David



Oooh! I will give that a shot, thank you!

Posted by: Larmo63 Jun 14 2018, 07:48 AM

Your project looks well on it's way to success!

I used a lot of Patrick Motorsports' products in my conversion, and I'm glad I did. I took a ribbing from some fellow 914 "friends" (who will remain anonymous, and who have nothing but trouble with their cars) for being a spendthrift and a "retail buyer" for using costly PMS stuff.

It's quality stuff. I'd recommend the PMS rear shift linkage bar, mine has worked out very well.

I loved the wheels when I saw the car in Arizona, keep up the great work. smilie_pokal.gif

Posted by: mb911 Jun 14 2018, 09:42 AM

Here is the jack stand that is none fail..

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Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 14 2018, 03:06 PM

Thanks for the vote of confidence Larmo!

OK, I need to get something done today and the new jack stands wont arrive until saturday sometime. Did a tire stack and then a couple sections of leftover wood countertop, and a couple of 2x4's to bridge the gap.

Then got to work and finished cutting out that damn engine mount on the drivers side. What a bitch! I have just a little bit of cleanup and wire wheel it clean and I can call it good enough.


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Posted by: mb911 Jun 14 2018, 04:03 PM

QUOTE(Travis Neff @ Jun 14 2018, 01:06 PM) *

Thanks for the vote of confidence Larmo!

OK, I need to get something done today and the new jack stands wont arrive until saturday sometime. Did a tire stack and then a couple sections of leftover wood countertop, and a couple of 2x4's to bridge the gap.

Then got to work and finished cutting out that damn engine mount on the drivers side. What a bitch! I have just a little bit of cleanup and wire wheel it clean and I can call it good enough.



That is for sure they are a PIA to remove..

Posted by: mepstein Jun 14 2018, 04:27 PM

QUOTE(mb911 @ Jun 14 2018, 06:03 PM) *

QUOTE(Travis Neff @ Jun 14 2018, 01:06 PM) *

Thanks for the vote of confidence Larmo!

OK, I need to get something done today and the new jack stands wont arrive until saturday sometime. Did a tire stack and then a couple sections of leftover wood countertop, and a couple of 2x4's to bridge the gap.

Then got to work and finished cutting out that damn engine mount on the drivers side. What a bitch! I have just a little bit of cleanup and wire wheel it clean and I can call it good enough.



That is for sure they are a PIA to remove..

You can tell this isn’t an east coast car. No (real) rust behind the mounts.

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 14 2018, 04:31 PM

It was a Montana car that I got from Craig at camp914. Pretty happy with it so far.

The passenger side is a little worse off, I'll patch that because I am going in to cut into the bottom of the long there anyways.

Now, off to see about maybe getting the engine mount in.

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 14 2018, 10:50 PM

I started grinding the paint away where I needed to weld in the mounts, and I cut part of the tailshifter flange off to give me more room to weld.

Prepped with UPOL Weld through primer. I then fitted up the mounts and traced around the welding area and ground back down to bare metal. I don't have good luck welding directly through the primer.

I then drilled some plug weld holes in the mounts. If I was to do it again, I would have only done the top two holes. Painted the backside with weld through primer, took off the primer on the plug weld holes and the edges of the mount.


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Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 14 2018, 10:52 PM

All burned in. Not the prettiest, but it will work.

Tomorrow I will do the plug welds and grind the crown off the welds


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Posted by: mb911 Jun 15 2018, 02:36 PM

Speaking from a welding instructor stand point you are best off not grinding the welds off for this as it adds strength. The only reason to grind a weld is to hide the seam.. It degrades the strength of the weld joint.

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 15 2018, 03:03 PM

Understood. I am in the middle and just cropped off the tops. I'll get back whatever I lost with the plug welds I think.

Posted by: mb911 Jun 15 2018, 03:37 PM

QUOTE(Travis Neff @ Jun 15 2018, 01:03 PM) *

Understood. I am in the middle and just cropped off the tops. I'll get back whatever I lost with the plug welds I think.



The concern I have is that welds are a bit cold and the face reinforcement is very important along with the toe when accessing a weld even more so when cold. The firewall is only about 18 gauge there.

Plug welds will help a bunch.

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 15 2018, 04:57 PM

Got it, thank you smile.gif

Posted by: mb911 Jun 15 2018, 05:34 PM

Btw I like the project. Looks like a great start.

Posted by: Larmo63 Jun 15 2018, 05:43 PM

I see you took the /4 mounts out, I left mine in. I felt that they strengthen and square up the chassis at that critical point.

I know /6s don't have them, but I ran my oil lines through the driver's side one, just so it could make itself useful.

Posted by: Ferg Jun 15 2018, 09:17 PM

Looking Good!

Posted by: Justinp71 Jun 15 2018, 10:20 PM


Cool! You're going to love that motor when its done! Carb'd flat sixes are amazing!

Posted by: mb911 Jun 16 2018, 06:22 AM

When removing my 4 mounts I made 14 gauge over lay reinforcements.. I will see if I can dig up a picture.. oops just found one. Attached Image

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 16 2018, 11:11 AM

I thought about leaving the mounts in when I had them halfway out. I was getting frustrated that I might not be able to get them out without a huge leftover mess!

I like the overlays and am thinking about something similar. Ollie's 914-6 blog has something like that as well. I will decide once I get the longs all fixed up.

I took Ben's critique on my mounts and while I didn't really like to hear it, I needed to. And I am thankful to get the feedback. So I went out and did some practicing and fooling around with the controls. I am going to try to practice a little bit each day before I start doing any more weld in work. Also on plug & butt welds. It's easy to rush to get something done vs. trying the best you can and slow down a bit.


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Posted by: mb911 Jun 16 2018, 11:20 AM

QUOTE(Travis Neff @ Jun 16 2018, 09:11 AM) *

I thought about leaving the mounts in when I had them halfway out. I was getting frustrated that I might not be able to get them out without a huge leftover mess!

I like the overlays and am thinking about something similar. Ollie's 914-6 blog has something like that as well. I will decide once I get the longs all fixed up.

I took Ben's critique on my mounts and while I didn't really like to hear it, I needed to. And I am thankful to get the feedback. So I went out and did some practicing and fooling around with the controls. I am going to try to practice a little bit each day before I start doing any more weld in work. Also on plug & butt welds. It's easy to rush to get something done vs. trying the best you can and slow down a bit.



Looks very good.. Big improvement. Remember I have done it professionally for 25 years plus. It takes a while to be able to weld like this.Attached Image

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 16 2018, 11:23 AM

Beautiful! Obviously not done with a metal glue gun.

Posted by: mb911 Jun 16 2018, 12:47 PM

QUOTE(Travis Neff @ Jun 16 2018, 09:23 AM) *

Beautiful! Obviously not done with a metal glue gun.



Your getting there.. Just all about practice.

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 16 2018, 03:26 PM

More practice today. I won't keep boring you with all this, but I am happy about the improvement and wanted to share.

I found that doing the plug welds, I got the best penetration by starting the puddle in the middle and pull out to the side of the hole, then do the same in 3, 6, 9, 12 & follow up with filling the hole. Where I filled the hole in one shot, amazingly I had the least penetration.

For the welds on the top, I redialed in my auto-darkening helmet so I could see better as i go. I did about 2" at a time and still need more practice were I start a weld next to the old weld (hope that makes sense). Also need to focus on using all the real estate on the side of the flat stock.

This is new metal to new metal, so no blowing holes. I practiced on some old sheet metal I cut out of the car and that was much more tricky to not blow holes.Attached Image


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Posted by: mb911 Jun 18 2018, 06:57 AM

Keep it up.. Now your up to the job. Carry on..

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 18 2018, 03:59 PM

Let's pucker up and start to cut..


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Posted by: mb911 Jun 18 2018, 04:13 PM

Btdt.. Oh what fun.

Posted by: bbrock Jun 18 2018, 04:19 PM

QUOTE(Travis Neff @ Jun 18 2018, 03:59 PM) *

Let's pucker up and start to cut..


I know that feeling! lol-2.gif You are doing great work. Fun to watch.

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 18 2018, 04:26 PM

A bunch more cotton and mouse trash fell out of the hollow section of the lower firewall. Those little bastards can get everywhere!

Now to figure out where to start patching. I have the huge urge to cut out the jack point area, but knowing my luck the car will collapse in half. I'll need to patch what I cut (and a few more cuts, like the inside corner of the passenger compartment), then move onto the next spot.

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 18 2018, 04:51 PM

I think I will cut these 2 parts next. I will need to figure out how to bend the replacement long pieces to make that smooth, rounded corner. Anyone have any insight on this? I have a cheap-o 30 inch HF brake. I guess finding some conduit or something to help make the shape.


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Posted by: bbrock Jun 18 2018, 05:00 PM

I have the same cheapo HF bending brake and bending the radius on those inner longs is actually pretty easy. I welded a piece of 3/8" solid round stock to a piece of plate that I bent the patch around. Matches the radius very well. You can see it about half way down on this post: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=307290&view=findpost&p=2516927

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 18 2018, 06:27 PM

QUOTE(bbrock @ Jun 18 2018, 04:00 PM) *

I have the same cheapo HF bending brake and bending the radius on those inner longs is actually pretty easy. I welded a piece of 3/8" solid round stock to a piece of plate that I bent the patch around. Matches the radius very well. You can see it about half way down on this post: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=307290&view=findpost&p=2516927


Giddyup! That will save me a whole day trying a bunch of different things. Thank you Brent.

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 18 2018, 06:38 PM

A little more cancer cuts


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Posted by: bbrock Jun 18 2018, 07:31 PM

QUOTE(Travis Neff @ Jun 18 2018, 06:27 PM) *

QUOTE(bbrock @ Jun 18 2018, 04:00 PM) *

I have the same cheapo HF bending brake and bending the radius on those inner longs is actually pretty easy. I welded a piece of 3/8" solid round stock to a piece of plate that I bent the patch around. Matches the radius very well. You can see it about half way down on this post: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=307290&view=findpost&p=2516927


Giddyup! That will save me a whole day trying a bunch of different things. Thank you Brent.


Double check the radius of the rod stock. IIRC, the inner has the sharper radius which the 3/8" rod fit nicely. The outer was shallower and I think I used a 1/2" rod to fit the radius.

Also, the first time I tried to bend a long piece of 18 ga with the HF brake, I snapped the crappy welds on the gizmo. No biggie to reweld solidly but might be worth doing preemptively. beerchug.gif

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 18 2018, 07:51 PM

Alright, I will get both sizes and some flat bar stock to create the recesses. smash.gif

Scrubbed things down a bit more with a smaller sized wire brush I found, then hosed it down with Metal Prep. That stuff has some STANK.

Posted by: bbrock Jun 18 2018, 08:16 PM

QUOTE(Travis Neff @ Jun 18 2018, 07:51 PM) *

Alright, I will get both sizes and some flat bar stock to create the recesses. smash.gif

Scrubbed things down a bit more with a smaller sized wire brush I found, then hosed it down with Metal Prep. That stuff has some STANK.


Oh yeah, on the recesses, I made my forms as positives that I hammered what would be recesses on the panel over the bar stock which worked, but is the stupid way unless you really want to work on your upper arm strength. Check out Ben's (mb911) thread for a better way to do it which is to hammer the recesses DOWN into recesses in your forms. smash.gif

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 18 2018, 08:43 PM

Found it! Thanks for the tip and thanks to Ben to show us how it's done.

I only need to worry about the first 2 recesses (left) smilie_pokal.gif


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Posted by: mb911 Jun 19 2018, 05:06 AM

QUOTE(Travis Neff @ Jun 18 2018, 06:43 PM) *

Found it! Thanks for the tip and thanks to Ben to show us how it's done.

I only need to worry about the first 2 recesses (left) smilie_pokal.gif



I still have the "buck" to do it.. I may even have some samples.. What part do you need?

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 19 2018, 10:08 AM

That would save me some serious time!

I would need from here to here with the flange that meets the outside cover on the bottom, and the radius curve on the inside that goes up about 1.5 inches in height.


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Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 19 2018, 09:47 PM

Brent, thanks for the tip on the round bar. 1/2 and 3/8 round bar works out great.

I welded the bars onto some 1/4x1.5 flat stock for my cheap-0 HF brake. Then tested it out on some 20g.


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Posted by: bbrock Jun 19 2018, 11:13 PM

QUOTE(Travis Neff @ Jun 19 2018, 09:47 PM) *

Brent, thanks for the tip on the round bar. 1/2 and 3/8 round bar works out great.

I welded the bars onto some 1/4x1.5 flat stock for my cheap-0 HF brake. Then tested it out on some 20g.


smilie_pokal.gif

Posted by: mb911 Jun 20 2018, 05:11 AM

QUOTE(Travis Neff @ Jun 19 2018, 08:08 AM) *

That would save me some serious time!

I would need from here to here with the flange that meets the outside cover on the bottom, and the radius curve on the inside that goes up about 1.5 inches in height.



I will look what I have.. I was also thinking I could just send you the buck and you could pass it on to the next person that needs it?

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 20 2018, 08:50 AM

Either way would be fantastic!

Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 21 2018, 11:18 PM

Patched a small part of long and put a backer in place over the original backer. I will have to jigsaw puzzle that part back together. Will have some pics tomorrow. Welding upside sucks, I think I need to seriously bump up the wire speed, as soon as a good puddle started it wanted to drop out onto my chest LOL.

I cleaned up the floor section that I removed and the the back part of it was super pitted and bent like tin foil. I fabbed a patch up, which was a bit of a chore to make that corner. But it seemed to work out. Blow a bunch of holes trying to section in the flange with the firewall section.


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Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 21 2018, 11:27 PM

Forgot a pic of the good looking side


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