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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ 1970 914 project
Posted by: 1970-1914 Jun 28 2018, 04:35 PM
I recently bought this partially restored 1970 914 shell off Craigslist for a pretty decent price. I have been looking for quite a while and there are only so many around in the Vancouver BC area and most are quite rusty if they are not $$$$$. The good news is most of the gross nasty metal work was already completed so in that regard I’m pretty far ahead for a project. Also came with quite a few decent parts - some I will use and some I will sell off to get the parts I actually need.
Not sure what I will do about engine choice.... would really like to do a 6 but based on cost I may end up doing a v8 or Subaru? Not sure but luckily I have a ton of other work to do on the rest of the car while I make up my mind.
EDIT: V8 it is - Purchased most of a Renegade SBC kit 
The Formula Vee wheels were just way too skinny for the flares so they have been sold and I picked up a set of chrome 15x6 and 15 x7 cookie cutters. Not sure if they will be wide enough either to look correct but the deal was great and they will at least allow me to do the 5 bolt conversion. 
I have one side of the rear suspension all apart and the rear axle stub out - looks like it is the early style with the raised bosses in place for 5 lug. I will update with some pics once that is done and the trailing arm is back together.
Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 28 2018, 04:50 PM
Looks like a great start!
Posted by: carking1996 Jun 28 2018, 05:00 PM
Nice. Happy to see where this one goes!
Posted by: SirAndy Jun 28 2018, 05:14 PM
They won't be wide enough, i run 7" cookies all around with GT flares and i run long wheel studs and 1" spacers to get them lined up with the flares nicely.
That's with 225 wide tires ...
Posted by: 1970-1914 Jun 28 2018, 07:51 PM
They won't be wide enough, i run 7" cookies all around with GT flares and i run long wheel studs and 1" spacers to get them lined up with the flares nicely.
That's with 225 wide tires ...
Thanks for the pic - I kinda thought this would be the situation.
Posted by: Mueller Jun 29 2018, 07:34 AM
Looks like a great start to fun project.
Posted by: wndsrfr Jun 29 2018, 08:45 AM
Looks like a great start!
Do a 2270 big four....no question.
Posted by: RickS Jun 29 2018, 09:16 AM
Nice looking roller, congrats.
When people commonly use the word ‘restore’ it means return to like new. Are you ditching the fender flares and going back to totally stock or going hot rod?
Edit, never mind, I answered my own question, adding a V8 or Suby motor is building a hot rod.
Posted by: 1970-1914 Jul 1 2018, 03:23 PM
I will be going Chevy v8 - based on budget and well...mostly budget.
Posted by: cali914 Jul 1 2018, 10:50 PM
I will be going Chevy v8 - based on budget and well...mostly budget.
Unless your going to put an LS in there go suby Plug and play. I bet in the end it will save you time and money.
Posted by: Chris914n6 Jul 2 2018, 01:04 PM
They won't be wide enough, i run 7" cookies all around with GT flares and i run long wheel studs and 1" spacers to get them lined up with the flares nicely.
That's with 225 wide tires ...
You can get 16x8 Euromeister Fuchs for under $800. Good tire selection and the right look. The 1" spacer is built into the outer lip
Posted by: 1970-1914 Jul 2 2018, 05:15 PM
They won't be wide enough, i run 7" cookies all around with GT flares and i run long wheel studs and 1" spacers to get them lined up with the flares nicely.
That's with 225 wide tires ...
You can get 16x8 Euromeister Fuchs for under $800. Good tire selection and the right look. The 1" spacer is built into the outer lip
Yes I was looking at those as well as the dr.911 repro alloys as well. He is only about 30 min from me which is pretty convenient. I was looking at either a15x8 + 15x9 set or the 16x8 + 16x9 set. These were apparently cast in Canada.
https://fuchswheelcompany.ca/wheels
Pierre
Posted by: 1970-1914 Jul 2 2018, 05:25 PM
No new wheels will happen till I sell these though. I have them up on the local Craigslist for pretty much what I have into them. They are definitely my favorite rim on a 914 but without some serious spacers they just wouldn’t look “right”
I am in the middle of re-drilling the rear hubs to 5 bolt. I was thinking I could buy longer studs and run 1.5” spacers all around and I think it would look good - just not so sure about spacers that thick on the front?
Posted by: 1970-1914 Jul 4 2018, 09:33 PM
Got the early dash structure sandblasted and painted. 
Posted by: 1970-1914 Jul 13 2018, 11:08 PM
I have the rear trailing arms just about ready to reinstall!
Sandblasted and painted trailing arms
New wheel bearings
Re-drilled 5 bolt hubs with longer studs
Open ended lug nuts
Going to start off with the cookie cutters with spacers looks like to start.
Posted by: bulitt Jul 14 2018, 06:33 AM
Good luck with your build !
And really good luck with the "low-buck" part!
Start hawing the classifieds for weather seals...new will run you @1000$ for the entire car...
Not to say it can't be done, stuff adds up $$$
Posted by: AZ914 Jul 14 2018, 11:41 AM
Good looking cookies.. put them in the classifieds here!
Posted by: 1970-1914 Aug 9 2018, 09:15 PM
Looking better back here finally.
I am going to try and see if it looks ok with tires on for lip clearance. 
Posted by: 1970-1914 Sep 30 2018, 08:56 PM
I picked up a full set of 15x7 cookie cutters and they definitely fit better up front than the 15x6’s did. 
It feels like they are plasti-dipped currently. I would like to paint them like this one I found online at some point:
Posted by: 1970-1914 Oct 24 2018, 09:42 PM
Goodbye side markers....
Posted by: SirAndy Oct 25 2018, 11:13 AM
Please ditch those KYB shocks ...
Posted by: 1970-1914 Nov 4 2018, 01:24 PM
Turns out the front bumper that came with the car is not quite as bad as it seemed - solid structure but with a bunch of dents and twists under a lot of poorly applied bondo and Bedliner. It actually fits pretty well now after a bit of hammer and dolly action. I ground off most of the bondo and bedliner. I will cut it open a bit for radiator airflow and then re-bondo. 
Posted by: 1970-1914 Nov 10 2018, 05:20 PM
Luisi early style hub finally arrived from Europe - fits ok... I may machine the landing at the end of the splines a little bit so it fits a bit closer to the column.
Posted by: 1970-1914 Dec 21 2018, 10:45 AM
Since the last update got a few things sorted out:
Passenger side 1/4 panel aligned and welded back on:
AA FG rockers are here and ready for trimming:
I have been working on the intake vent in the front bumper and stock lower valence - about 1/2 way there...
New repro bumper tops are here from 914rubber - Thank you Mark!
And I finally found a decent stock bore 283 short block - It was gone through and assembled about 15-20 years ago and just sat in a shop ever since. I am going to take it apart, check everything and re-assemble.The motor build is kind of on the back burner for now but I am picking up parts as the deals on the right parts arise.
Posted by: ValcoOscar Dec 21 2018, 10:52 AM
Pierre-
IMHO...I like the look of your front valance mod. 
Please share some photos once done and before install.
Oscar
Posted by: 1970-1914 Dec 21 2018, 11:20 AM
Pierre-
IMHO...I like the look of your front valance mod.
Please share some photos once done and before install.
Oscar
Thanks - Will do.
Posted by: djway Dec 22 2018, 02:43 AM
I made a front valance almost identical but I made it out of glass so I may be biased when I say I like it
Posted by: jimkelly Dec 22 2018, 07:09 AM
you probably cant go wrong with a brand new $1500 crate engine sbc 350 except that at highway speeds it will be reving a little high for its 3.5" stroke, but less so with H gear swap. too bad a 283 (3" stroke) is not available as a crate engine. though i dont know out what a comfortable highway rpm is for either when combined with a 914 trans. i'm about to replace my leaky 307 with a 283.
Attached image(s)
Posted by: 1970-1914 Dec 22 2018, 12:22 PM
Jim,
I thought about one of those 350’s - mostly because it is a quick easy solution. I then decided I should actually just find a decent 283 and deal with the hassle of redoing it to better fit the application.
The short block I found in Seattle is a motor someone rebuilt at some point about 15 years ago and then just sat in a shop until all the assets were bought by the shop I am dealing with. I am heading down to pick it up after Christmas.
The bores still look quite decent. I may be able to get away with disassembling it, quick clean up and re-assemble. Probably will end up changing the cam. 
Posted by: jimkelly Dec 22 2018, 07:26 PM
seems everyone says a 283 needs some modern small chamber heads like trick flow or world and a higher rpm cam.
http://www.competitionproducts.com/World-Products-S_R-Stock-Replacement-Cast-Iron-Chev-SB-Head-170cc_58cc-Straight-Plug-Assembled-Pair/productinfo/4265KA/#.XB7j71xKjcs
--
Jim,
I thought about one of those 350’s - mostly because it is a quick easy solution. I then decided I should actually just find a decent 283 and deal with the hassle of redoing it to better fit the application.
The short block I found in Seattle is a motor someone rebuilt at some point about 15 years ago and then just sat in a shop until all the assets were bought by the shop I am dealing with. I am heading down to pick it up after Christmas.
The bores still look quite decent. I may be able to get away with disassembling it, quick clean up and re-assemble. Probably will end up changing the cam.
Posted by: 1970-1914 Dec 22 2018, 08:45 PM
I have a nice set of “powerpack” heads that were super cheap - $50 for the set - and have been fully gone through, new valves, guides, beehive springs and light weight keepers. They have 58cc chambers which are pretty tiny but should keep the compression up.
Most say they are not that good any more due to the smaller valves but I am going to try them. I suspect on a larger displacement motor they would be right but on s 283 they may be just fine. 
Posted by: 1970-1914 Dec 22 2018, 09:00 PM
This motor is coming together incredibly cheap.
283 short block - $200
Heads - $50
Intake and distributor - $30
I still have to buy the 180 degree headers ($300) and Fitech efi setup ($799), Davies Craig water pump ($250) and some misc parts but I should be all in around $1500 - $2000 for the motor which I think is pretty great.
Posted by: Mike Bellis Dec 22 2018, 09:06 PM
I had a 283 in mine and loved it. Not a monster but really quick. You will want a taller 5th gear and maybe lock out 1st (granny gear). Dr Evil can help out with the tranny options.
Posted by: Nacho Dec 22 2018, 09:13 PM
Another nice Chevy small block is the Vortec series. I ran one of these in my 73 Camaro the nice part of the later generation small block was better flowing heads, roller lifters and ability to run roller camshaft. Add a Eldelbrock intake and Holley and you got your self a nice little engine.
Posted by: jimkelly Dec 23 2018, 08:10 AM
that Fitech efi setup looks sweet. i'm gonna run rams horns instead of shorty headers.
according to this video, rams horns are fine to 5200 rpm.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe9ke0rQlT8
Posted by: jimkelly Dec 23 2018, 02:44 PM
just stumbled on this but no details offered.
https://www.fivestarengines.com/shop/chevy-283-280-hp-high-performance-balanced-crate-engine/
Posted by: 1970-1914 Dec 23 2018, 05:32 PM
Here are the Gm performance parts intake and Mallory hei distribultor I picked up the other day off Craigslist for the massive sum of $30. Sbc parts pricing is just so ridiculously cheap compared to anything else. 
Posted by: jimkelly Dec 23 2018, 06:34 PM
hei distributor is a monster but nice to have coil embedded in it. look forward to seeing how you make it fit : )
Posted by: 1970-1914 Dec 24 2018, 12:41 AM
hei distributor is a monster but nice to have coil embedded in it. look forward to seeing how you make it fit : )
Going to be some cutting.... but not until I have the motor and headers assembled to guide the min amount of sheet metal removal.
Likely going to be similar to this example:
But may have to be this much but hopefully not.
Posted by: jimkelly Dec 24 2018, 10:20 AM
unless you are going crazy with exhaust, the cuts are probably overkill, as is the supports. you could probably just cut less and box out around the hei. though complete removal of firewall makes accessing engine for various things MUCH easier. there are always pluses and minuses. wear gloves and eye protection with that angle grinder or 
Posted by: mgp4591 Dec 24 2018, 11:25 PM
that Fitech efi setup looks sweet. i'm gonna run rams horns instead of shorty headers.
according to this video, rams horns are fine to 5200 rpm.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe9ke0rQlT8
They make ram horns that have a 2 1/2" outlet that's probably more flow than you'd need - they came with the high hp Corvette smallblocks. The small valve heads will get you to that 5200 rpm that the ram horns are good to without a problem. It sounds like a good combination all around.
Posted by: dan10101 Dec 25 2018, 01:37 AM
I had a built 283 in a flat bottom boat. It had double hump heads, 10-1 compression, Duntov 30/30 cam, alum manifold and Holley 600. I suspect somewhere around 250-280hp. It moved it really good, but wouldn't idle for beans. Really tough to idle in a 5mph zone with 1000rpms and direct drive.
Posted by: Chris914n6 Dec 25 2018, 10:00 PM
FYI - Summit Racing has/had the FiTech on a pretty good sale for Christmas.
Posted by: jimkelly Dec 26 2018, 08:27 AM
turns out these guys offer a 283 crate engine.
https://www.fivestarengines.com/shop/chevy-283-280-hp-high-performance-balanced-crate-engine/
Q- can you advise what compression cam pistons crank bore etc etc
thanks
jim
A- "The compression ratio is 9.5:1 (good for pump gas). The pistons are a flat top design. The crank is a re-machined GM 283 crank with all new bearings and computer balanced. Every block is bored oversize and over 90% are .030 (first cut). The cam is a new Comp Cams high energy camshaft with .454 lift and 268 duration. Thank you for your interest. Chris. 623-939-0345"
and
Q- chris, so do they have powerpack heads? do you recommend 600 cfm 4 barrel carb? what horsepower and torque do you expect? thanks again, jim
A- "We do offer the powerpack heads and install 1.94 intake and 1.50 exhaust valves. We do recommend a 600 cfm four barrel carb. The peak HP is 280 at 5000 rpm. Thanks again, Chris."
AND A TIP FROM TOMREV TO ME SOME TIME AGO.
"Stick with a mild cam, add the roller tip steel rockers, like I did, (around $90. a set), small carb, 500 to 600 cfm, headers like mine, but with 2 1/4 in. dia. exhaust pipes, HEI type dist. (mine is MSD, very nice, but $300.), maybe lighten the flywheel some. The 283 is a sweetheart, and with the smaller port aluminum heads ($1100.) from Trickflow really runs nice. Have fun with your build!"
Posted by: 1970-1914 Dec 26 2018, 05:39 PM
I will disassemble the 283 shortblock I bought and see if I can determine what cam is in it and maybe replace with something more appropriate for higher rpm? From the pics I have it looks like a stock type piston. Possibly worthwhile to go with a slightly higher compression piston set while apart. Won’t really know till after it gets inspected.
Posted by: jimkelly Dec 27 2018, 08:05 AM
i don't know if you ever plan on getting stuck in heavy traffic but i think a less wild engine is probably better for traffic.
especially if you'll be using stock transaxle and avoiding the use of 1st gear, as most do.
2nd gear in stop and go traffic sucks, as it doesnt work well for sub 10-15 mph speeds.
probably would suck much more with a hotter cam and a bunch of compression? 
Posted by: 1970-1914 Dec 27 2018, 10:51 AM
So as the " low-buck v8 outlaw" thread title says suggests... this car is being built on a very low budget and will be a V8. If you have read much before this post most of what is going to happen with this build has been detailed.... so what does this low budget look like and how am I doing?
My goal is to be all built and painted with +/- 250hp for around $5500-$6000.
This is only vaguely possible because the shell purchase was such a ridiculously good deal and I will be doing the remaining fab work, bodywork, paint and assembly myself. Quite honestly that is all the fun stuff for me anyway so looking forward to all that.
Starting with a shell that was media blasted, all rust work done, chassis reinforcements welded in, epoxy primed and the complete underneath painted is a really really big head start in time and money.
Costs so far:
Shell and parts purchased for $1800
Parts sold off:
Riviera wheels - $200
Stock 1.7 - $700
Misc efi parts - $200
Fender lip cut offs - $100
Stock steering wheel - $250
Total cost for shell: $350
Parts bought:
Chrome cookie cutter rims - $500 then decided 6" wide was too skinny for the front and re-sold for $700. Bought second painted black set with tires for $250 so current wheels in total were $50.
VB adapter, flywheel, pressure plate and disc - $130
Power pack heads - $50
Intake and HEI distributor - $30
283 Shortblock - $200
2 new 914rubber bumper tops black Friday deal - $470
Front and rear stock used valences - $100
Dash frame and gauges (missing when i bought the shell) - $150
Heater control - $50
Wiper motor and arms - $30
Momo wheel and Luisi early adapter - $150
5 bolt rear conversion (new discs, redrilled early hubs, new wheel bearings and 20mm spacers) $350
Front 5 bolt adapters - for now - $90
Flared FG rockers - $250
All in cost so far: $2094
So right now I have a mostly complete rust free V8 914 for $2100 which I think is a pretty great place to be at this point in the build. 
Still to buy:
Rad and cooling parts - $750
Windshield - $250
Misc v8 parts including headers and exhaust tubing/muffler - $750
Carb or efi set-up - $800
Misc interior parts (carpet, door panel recovering etc) - $500
Paint supplies - $500
Still needed: $3550
Target total cost: $5650
I'll be quite happy if that number jumps up another $1000 or so with the upgrading of the front suspension and brakes. I kind of see that as a phase 2 project after the car is up and running. If I go regular headers and carb instead of the 180* headers and efi it will shave about $1000 off the total. Also I think I can do better than budgeted on the cooling system if the right deals come up.
I would have loved to have gone with a 911 6 motor of some sort but the price point even for a pos core motor and install parts would exceed my projected total budget easily and still would have needed rebuilding $$$$.
Posted by: mobymutt Dec 28 2018, 08:28 AM
Nice!
I'm probably close to your build price, and I have a rusty shell, and some crappy 1.7 I just bought off somebody.
Posted by: 1970-1914 Dec 28 2018, 10:03 AM
Haha nice.
Have you gone any deeper disassembling the motor or are you just going to put the heads back on and run it?
Pierre
Nice!
I'm probably close to your build price, and I have a rusty shell, and some crappy 1.7 I just bought off somebody.
Posted by: jimkelly Dec 28 2018, 06:54 PM
i had bad drone at about 2000 rpm with dual exhaust and shitty mufflers. once i changed to magnaflow mufflers, the drone went away, but some say a crossover pipe is a good idea.
and that fitech looks sweeeeet but you can save $500+- in the short term by using a carb BUT i wonder what kind of fuel economy improvement FI will give on a 283 in the long run?
lastly, the guy i got my 283 from advised me to add a zinc additive to my fuel and modern gas is unleaded and the 283 prefers leaded gas. something about wipping out the cam.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Zj0RMPKquw
Attached image(s)
Posted by: mobymutt Dec 28 2018, 09:07 PM
Just gonna put the heads back on and run it!
Haha nice.
Have you gone any deeper disassembling the motor or are you just going to put the heads back on and run it?
Pierre
Nice!
I'm probably close to your build price, and I have a rusty shell, and some crappy 1.7 I just bought off somebody.
Posted by: 1970-1914 Jan 1 2019, 03:10 AM
I picked up a nice set of doors today from Rich at 914 Werke - I was just really looking for a passenger door but I decided to update both for the newer style window regulators and crash bars. I can see the value in that as I was t boned in my 1971 years ago and it destroyed the side of the whole car - windshield out and the targa top went flying into the ditch. 
And here is the 283 short block (- the camshaft). 
Posted by: Tdskip Jan 1 2019, 07:56 AM
So as the " low-buck v8 outlaw" thread title says suggests... this car is being built on a very low budget and will be a V8. If you have read much before this post most of what is going to happen with this build has been detailed.... so what does this low budget look like and how am I doing?
My goal is to be all built and painted with +/- 250hp for around $5500-$6000.
This is only vaguely possible because the shell purchase was such a ridiculously good deal and I will be doing the remaining fab work, bodywork, paint and assembly myself. Quite honestly that is all the fun stuff for me anyway so looking forward to …all that.
Starting with a shell that was media blasted, all rust work done, chassis reinforcements welded in, epoxy primed and the complete underneath painted is a really really big head start in time and money.
Costs so far:
Shell and parts purchased for $1800
Parts sold off:
Riviera wheels - $200
Stock 1.7 - $700
Misc efi parts - $200
Fender lip cut offs - $100
Stock steering wheel - $250
Total cost for shell: $350
Parts bought:
Chrome cookie cutter rims - $500 then decided 6" wide was too skinny for the front and re-sold for $700. Bought second painted black set with tires for $250 so current wheels in total were $50.
VB adapter, flywheel, pressure plate and disc - $130
Power pack heads - $50
Intake and HEI distributor - $30
283 Shortblock - $200
2 new 914rubber bumper tops black Friday deal - $470
Front and rear stock used valences - $100
Dash frame and gauges (missing when i bought the shell) - $150
Heater control - $50
Wiper motor and arms - $30
Momo wheel and Luisi early adapter - $150
5 bolt rear conversion (new discs, redrilled early hubs, new wheel bearings and 20mm spacers) $350
Front 5 bolt adapters - for now - $90
Flared FG rockers - $250
All in cost so far: $2094
So right now I have a mostly complete rust free V8 914 for $2100 which I think is a pretty great place to be at this point in the build.
Still to buy:
Rad and cooling parts - $750
Windshield - $250
Misc v8 parts including headers and exhaust tubing/muffler - $750
Carb or efi set-up - $800
Misc interior parts (carpet, door panel recovering etc) - $500
Paint supplies - $500
Still needed: $3550
Target total cost: $5650
I'll be quite happy if that number jumps up another $1000 or so with the upgrading of the front suspension and brakes. I kind of see that as a phase 2 project after the car is up and running. If I go regular headers and carb instead of the 180* headers and efi it will shave about $1000 off the total. Also I think I can do better than budgeted on the cooling system if the right deals come up.
I would have loved to have gone with a 911 6 motor of some sort but the price point even for a pos core motor and install parts would exceed my projected total mibudget easily and still would have needed rebuilding $$$$.
Wow, well done.
Maybe I need to put you in charge of my budgets.
Mild cam for street use is a VERY good idea.
Posted by: 1970-1914 Jan 3 2019, 01:01 PM
Motor is apart - had a later 283 cast crank and not a forged one which was a bit of a disappointment. 
The block is still the standard bore which is pretty good for a 55 yr old engine. Of course 7 of the 8 cylinders look like they would clean up well with just a honing.... the other cylinder may be too rusty 
Posted by: 1970-1914 Jan 13 2019, 11:01 PM
In other more exciting news I found a much better dash pad for the car 
Posted by: 1970-1914 Jan 14 2019, 04:46 PM
I will be taking the block in to get hot tanked and mag'd in the next couple of weeks. If decent it will be getting bored .030 over and new cam bearings pressed in.
The http://richmondengines.com/ I am using has a great history of building winning circle track, race boat and drag motors here in Vancouver. It is going to be a fairly simple build with a factory forged 3" crank, scat rods and metric ring pistons. Cam wise I will likely leave that up to him - he is aware of what I want out of this motor.
I will be turning my focus back to the body and paint side of this project for a while.
Posted by: 1970-1914 Feb 4 2019, 11:40 PM
Thanks to Bob Burton and Jim Kelly for getting me some v8 mount measurements.
I was able to whip up this engine mount bar - just have to bring it in to work to mill the holes at each end for the bolt holes. There will be pipe sections going through the holes vertically to provide the right height spacing. 
Posted by: 1970-1914 Feb 5 2019, 08:58 PM
And now with the bar milled precisely for the end pipes. They are not cut down to the correct height and welded yet. Thinking I will put the motor in the car before I finalize that. 
Posted by: djway Feb 5 2019, 09:37 PM
Could you share the measurements?
Posted by: 1970-1914 Feb 6 2019, 12:16 PM
Could you share the measurements?
I will post a drawing with all dimensions once I have it mounted in the car and ensure everything is correct.
Pierre
Posted by: 1970-1914 Mar 3 2019, 04:28 PM
The block was dropped off at the engine shop and should be back from the hot tanking/magnafluxing process next week. If it checks out the next step is to get it machined as required and bored to .030”over in the cylinders.
The owner of the shop has a forged steel 283 crank that I will likely buy and replace my cast one with. He also has a set of very low hour small journal eagle forged rods that I will use. Cam is still up in the air as is piston choice. Either a replacement cast 30 over stock set or a more exotic custom cnc’d hyperuetectic set that uses modern thin rings like in the LS motors. Leaning toward the more exotic ones but I will have to see just how exotic the total bill will be.
Posted by: 1970-1914 Mar 19 2019, 09:29 PM
I talked to the engine builder today - my block is back, clean and passed the magnafluxing. Time to get serious with my build decisions with regards to compression and cam choice.
Posted by: 1970-1914 Jun 12 2019, 11:48 PM
Ok - slightly different route....
I found a really good deal on another 283 - already bored .040 over, new pistons, rods and a forged 3” crank. The cam in it was not what I want but otherwise a ready to go short block. 
Posted by: 2mAn Jun 13 2019, 05:01 PM
Im loving the budget approach to this build. Tried and true methods and parts can yield good deals!...
Has anyone used the Small Block Ford (like a 289 or 302) in these? Curious what trans options are for that motor.
Sorry for the derail, just thinking out loud while watching the thread
Posted by: djway Jun 13 2019, 11:54 PM
Im loving the budget approach to this build. Tried and true methods and parts can yield good deals!...
Has anyone used the Small Block Ford (like a 289 or 302) in these? Curious what trans options are for that motor.
Sorry for the derail, just thinking out loud while watching the thread
Yes but they did a bad job 5.0 HO
Posted by: 76-914 Jun 14 2019, 08:22 AM
Posted by: 1970-1914 Jun 14 2019, 09:20 AM
Agree - that is a very terrible install.....
Posted by: 2mAn Jun 14 2019, 10:24 AM
wow... easy to change the belt though 
So as the " low-buck v8 outlaw" thread title says suggests... this car is being built on a very low budget and will be a V8. If you have read much before this post most of what is going to happen with this build has been detailed.... so what does this low budget look like and how am I doing?
My goal is to be all built and painted with +/- 250hp for around $5500-$6000.
This is only vaguely possible because the shell purchase was such a ridiculously good deal and I will be doing the remaining fab work, bodywork, paint and assembly myself. Quite honestly that is all the fun stuff for me anyway so looking forward to all that.
Starting with a shell that was media blasted, all rust work done, chassis reinforcements welded in, epoxy primed and the complete underneath painted is a really really big head start in time and money.
Costs so far:
Shell and parts purchased for $1800
Parts sold off:
Riviera wheels - $200
Stock 1.7 - $700
Misc efi parts - $200
Fender lip cut offs - $100
Stock steering wheel - $250
Total cost for shell: $350
Parts bought:
Chrome cookie cutter rims - $500 then decided 6" wide was too skinny for the front and re-sold for $700. Bought second painted black set with tires for $250 so current wheels in total were $50.
VB adapter, flywheel, pressure plate and disc - $130
Power pack heads - $50
Intake and HEI distributor - $30
283 Shortblock - $200
2 new 914rubber bumper tops black Friday deal - $470
Front and rear stock used valences - $100
Dash frame and gauges (missing when i bought the shell) - $150
Heater control - $50
Wiper motor and arms - $30
Momo wheel and Luisi early adapter - $150
5 bolt rear conversion (new discs, redrilled early hubs, new wheel bearings and 20mm spacers) $350
Front 5 bolt adapters - for now - $90
Flared FG rockers - $250
All in cost so far: $2094
So right now I have a mostly complete rust free V8 914 for $2100 which I think is a pretty great place to be at this point in the build.
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Target total cost: $5650
Target cost is about what Id like to have into mine... when it finally happens. Looks like you're doing well so far
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