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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ 914 Diesel build....

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 4 2018, 04:30 AM

Here goes nothin....
Been planning this for a while, but it was supposed to be a winter project. Wasn't quite ready yet. KEP adaptor parts have been sitting here. Timeline moved up because of a failure.
Had a chirp that turned into a BAD miss, valve seat issue on one cylinder.Attached Image

Had a fresh 1.9 AAZ diesel sitting in my storage trailer that had never been fired. (honed, rings, bearings, injection pump reseal). "new" engine was destined for my daily beater . Same engine in the beater is getting a little tired, I've put at least 350,000 km on it and the compression is getting down. Still runs okay though. Swapped the "new" engine into the beater. 16 year old son is learning...Attached Image

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 4 2018, 04:38 AM

Plan is to build the car with the more tired engine, and pull it this winter to go through it if need be. Engine was "turned up" about 10 years ago, more fuel, timing advanced etc. and will outrun the same car with a gas engine all day long. Only change on installation is a T3 turbo instead of a K14 that it came with. Really easy to do while it's out of the car. Engine and trans met yesterday.Attached Image

Engine/trans and crossbar are sitting on the floor in approximate placement that it needs to be in order to get a good look and plan a front mount. We have a plan, not sure if it's the best plan but will work without any car body surgery.
Car in the past had a Dodge 360 in it, water lines are there to put the rad in the front but I'm going to try to run with a rad in the engine compartment. I'd like to have a sealed up front compartment again if I can make it work that way.

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 4 2018, 04:42 AM

BTW I may have a complete 2L engine for sale at some point, needs head work and a piston. There's a pretty good mark in the piston where the valve seat made contact. Pretty sure carbs are Holley, at least they're a small progressive 2 barrel. Pertronix electronic in the distributor. Heater boxes are a little grubby but good shape. Exhaust is a 4 into one type with a cherry bomb looking muffler.
Anyone know where to get an electric oil pressure gauge that matches the gauges in the 914? I'd rather not run hot oil in the cab unless I have to. Clock doesn't work anyway, so I'd like an oil pressure gauge there instead. And a temp gauge with numbers... I'm going to try to hook the existing oil temp gauge to a water temp sender and see what happens, but I'd like to have numbers. Want to maintain stock appearance in the car if I can.

Posted by: mb911 Jul 4 2018, 05:42 AM

That will be very cool..

Posted by: 914forme Jul 4 2018, 07:22 AM

As a diesel owner aktion035.gif

A couple of people have done the swap.

As far as making them faster than their gas counterparts shades.gif BTDT

Looking forward to this one.

BTW you might be able to run the RAD in the engine compartment. Diesels can idle all day and not overheat. Matter of fact I used to have to run up my engine on cold mornings even after driving for an hour to keep heat in the cabin on cold days. They really only generate heat when working, moving something, or spinning at 2000 RPM. At that point if designed correctly you should get enough airflow to pull it off.

headbang.gif Now I want to build a TDI 914 with the same specs as my old A4 TDI. It was a PD European specs with 175HP parts and a 6 speed. When done with all the mods it was 225HP and 450 FootPounds of earth moving torques. Still got 50 MPG in a heavy A4 chassis. Loved that engine, hated all the trouble that car was and sold it. Most likely right before I got it all sorted, as I see it about once a month tearing up the highway.


Posted by: PatrickB Jul 4 2018, 07:37 AM

QUOTE(914forme @ Jul 4 2018, 09:22 AM) *

As a diesel owner aktion035.gif

A couple of people have done the swap.

As far as making them faster than their gas counterparts shades.gif BTDT

Looking forward to this one.

BTW you might be able to run the RAD in the engine compartment. Diesels can idle all day and not overheat. Matter of fact I used to have to run up my engine on cold mornings even after driving for an hour to keep heat in the cabin on cold days. They really only generate heat when working, moving something, or spinning at 2000 RPM. At that point if designed correctly you should get enough airflow to pull it off.

headbang.gif Now I want to build a TDI 914 with the same specs as my old A4 TDI. It was a PD European specs with 175HP parts and a 6 speed. When done with all the mods it was 225HP and 450 FootPounds of earth moving torques. Still got 50 MPG in a heavy A4 chassis. Loved that engine, hated all the trouble that car was and sold it. Most likely right before I got it all sorted, as I see it about once a month tearing up the highway.
Exactly why I'm using the AAZ that I bought used mileage unknown and put another 350,000 or so on since. Trouble free... unless you count the time I changed the timing belt and didn't do the tensioner pulley... Hard on valves when you break the belt.
Going to set the engine in and look at the plumbing.

Posted by: Porschef Jul 4 2018, 07:43 AM

Extremely cool. Having had an ALH Golf for some time (described by some as VW's most reliable car, but only w the manual trans, given to my older daughter) I was always tempted to slap in a bigger turbo and a chip, bumping factory 90hp to 150 or so. Lots of torque, and in a 914, would probably return 60 mpg. cheer.gif

Gearing will be your bugaboo...



Can we get a pic of the recipient?

Posted by: 914forme Jul 4 2018, 08:03 AM

The 914 converted with an ALH did about 60+ MPG, it has been done. The MK4 with a 5 speed is the best VW diesel ever, as long as the auxiliary electronics did not bring you down. headbang.gif We had a 1999 that had so many Canbus issues I got rid of it. When the security module started to lock the car randomly and then set the alarm while it was driving and leaving my wife in the middle of an intersection not able to move the car, turn off the alarm, or open the door after she got out of the car. It was time to ar15.gif

Should have keep that engine, found a FWD Passat A4 or Audi and built a 914 with it.

All this talk is making me think about doing it again. Same HP as my Subaru, and more Torque. 60+ MPG. My wife would want a crappy tune so she could roll coal. I would go with a great tune so I could just driving.gif and fly by people thinking WTF.gif

ALH Bigger Turbo 3" all the way to the back with Air to water intercooler, a great tune either Rocket Chip or headbang.gif forgot my last tuner headbang.gif and a nice Passat Diesel 6 speed sourced from Europe to get the gearing right. my new radiator would be plenty big enough. Engine mounts would have to change as would trans mounts. Shit just got so simple, make a great fair wether commuter.

this thread is the happy11.gif doing headbang.gif

Posted by: Porschef Jul 4 2018, 08:17 AM

QUOTE(914forme @ Jul 4 2018, 10:03 AM) *



Should have keep that engine, found a FWD Passat A4 or Audi and built a 914 with it.

this thread is the happy11.gif doing headbang.gif





Haha, you're not kidding Stephen...

Me, "Sweetie, I found you a nice Camry/Yaris/Echo/Civic/Etc so you can give Dad back that stinky diesel and not have to worry about checking the oil all the time....


Do you have a thread for that build? Imagine a 1000 mile range on a teener...

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 4 2018, 08:40 AM

Car was previously owned by a body shop owner, only untouched panel is the hood. Roof sanded and painted. All that reshaping is steel. Attached Image Attached Image


May go with a bigger diesel down the road (mechanical ALH??) but might not. Using this engine to build. Be easy to go bigger later.

As for gearing, the engine turns 2641 @ 100kmh in the old Jetta. Gets between 800 and 1000 km on a tank in the summer, tank hold 53 l. Best of 4.9l per 100k in that car. Average closer to 6 l/100k . The Porsche is at least 700 lbs lighter and not shaped like a brick, so....

Could use a higher last gear at least. Going to explore those options at a later date. Just want to make it run a this point.

Posted by: poorsche914 Jul 4 2018, 08:52 AM

Subscribed smile.gif

I have wanted to do a TDI conversion for a while now. I have an '05 TDI my daughter currently drives. At some point may use it as the donor vehicle happy11.gif

driving.gif

Posted by: Porschef Jul 4 2018, 09:07 AM

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Jul 4 2018, 10:40 AM) *

...



Wow, never seen that. Kinda like 914 meets Ford Probe... confused24.gif

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 4 2018, 09:16 AM

QUOTE
Wow, never seen that. Kinda like 914 meets Ford Probe... confused24.gif


Good eye. Ford probe bumpers grafted on, then body kit hand built to match. Was in a paint calendar from PPG in 2005. Not the way I would have built the car.... but also the reason I don't feel guilty about changing stuff.

Posted by: Porschef Jul 4 2018, 09:35 AM

Which now really makes it a perfect candidate for a diesel Swap. This is so cool, I'll be watching closely, thanks

Posted by: 914-d Jul 4 2018, 10:20 AM

One of my project is a 914 diesel...here are a few picsAttached Image Attached Image

Posted by: JRust Jul 4 2018, 10:22 AM

Hey that body work was done tastefully. All the quarters are steel? That is pretty impressive work. I'd drive that all day. While I can't say I would build one like it. I can sure appreciate the guy who built it. That is a sweet little ride. I don't even hate the wing on the back with it confused24.gif . Love to see the diesel build here. Sunscribed

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 4 2018, 12:02 PM

Anyone know if this one ever got finished? PM had no response. Same engine but I think it's sitting farther ahead than I expect mine to.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=84047&st=0

Posted by: 914forme Jul 4 2018, 12:29 PM

Yes I think it got done, have not talked with him for a long, long time. confused24.gif

Posted by: Dave_Darling Jul 4 2018, 02:03 PM

I'm wondering about the gearbox... The gearing may be low for a diesel, and I'm wondering how the 901-based box will hold up to diesel torque...

--DD

Posted by: Chris H. Jul 4 2018, 03:21 PM

Very unique bodywork. Looks well done. Wonder how 944 taillights and reflector would look?

Can’t wait to see the build!

Posted by: 914-d Jul 4 2018, 03:22 PM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jul 4 2018, 01:03 PM) *

I'm wondering about the gearbox... The gearing may be low for a diesel, and I'm wondering how the 901-based box will hold up to diesel torque...

--DD


That is why I stuck with the vw trans and went transverse, correct gearing and the trans will handle the 375 lbs of touque

Posted by: 914forme Jul 4 2018, 03:45 PM

What you need for these is an 6 speed out of a Audi or VW TDI kinda like these. Problem is solved, it will bolt up to an ALH and has the proper gearing and handles more that 375 FtP. Are not cheap, are rare in the USA, but Europe has them. Same basic trans as the Boxster S 6 speed but with better gearing.

Get this thing done man, once it is driving you can make fools out of all us speculators. beer.gif

Attached Image

http://advancedautomotion.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/188/products_id/29 screwy.gif

Posted by: 914-d Jul 4 2018, 04:04 PM

Might use that trans on the next one. I have a guy in Amsterdam I buy from can get quite a better price. Those trans have issues so he only sells them rebuilt
I did an ALH conversion in my A4 quattro. He shipped the trans on April 10...was at my door 2 days later. Have bought several from him.


Posted by: 914forme Jul 4 2018, 04:47 PM

I do the same thing but use a guy in England.

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 5 2018, 04:34 AM

Using the 901 trans. The engine I'm using is an older mechanical injection AAZ.I don't think I'll get more than 150 horse out of it as it sits. Fuelling is up, timing is advanced, and if I can figure out a nice way to fool the wastegate the boost will be up. Wastegate isn't adjustable. IF I remember correctly engine will turn about 2800 at 60 mph. Online calculator tells me it was turning 2641 at 100 kph in the Jettta. Close enough. We autocross the car, gearing should be fine, especially since I put on a bigger turbo that's going to be a little slower to spool. Old school diesel stuff. The bigger turbo didn't start making good boost until at least 2600 or 2800 on the slightly smaller 1.6 I took it off. The K14 I took off stared at about 1400 and made good boost by 2000 but is much more limited higher up, very restrictive onte h exhaust side and won't flow nearly as well. Moves less air at the same boost as the bigger turbo does.
It will for sure have a fair amount more torque, especially when the turbo is coming on hard. I don't think it will be enough more to be an issue. If it is.... I have 2 more 901 side shift transmissions under the bench!
The 901 looks a lot bigger to me than the 020 in the Jetta, and I've only ever broke one of those in 20 years or so of daily driving. Engine has enough torque that we had tires breaking loose halfway through second gear when we autocrossed it once last year (914 was down for wheel bearings).

I do want to figure out how to get a higher gear in 5th, maybe 4th too. First thought was go see DR Evil. Maybe a taller ring and pinion and bring all the gears up? Someday...
Swapping out the trans for the stuff you guys are talking about might happen eventually but not this year.


Besides... I'm CHEAP! Aim is to do this for less than 500 bucks other than the KEP adaptor. The only out of pocket other than that so far is the starter. Bought 2 high torque starters for 80 bucks for the pair from another guy that gave up on his swapping. the other expense will be the cooling. Also trying to figure out an easy way to put heat in the car, mostly for drying out windows on wet mornings. Going to tear apart one of my mark2 Jetta parts cars to see if I can use a complete heater box. Open to other options too. Probably a later date thing, not now.

I like to keep my projects within a family of parts.... Early ones included a Pontiac Astre with a 3.8 Buick (all GM) 82 firebird with a 400 small black (all GM). Various engines in various old chevy pickups. Only exception to that rule was a 354 perkins in a 4 door 3/4 ton chev pickup. I figure VW in a Porsche is all in the family.


Next auto cross is july 22, don't think I'm going to make it.

Posted by: 914forme Jul 5 2018, 08:49 AM

I used to Auto-x an A3 Jetta, loved that little car.

Fooling the actuator is pretty easy, most people just used an aquarium air valve, old school. Small restrictor will also work.

As far as the 901 goes you will be fine. The Evil Dr. will be a great resource I would look for an H or HA 5th, and play around with the rest of the gearing. His Evil one can tell you what gears can be sourced cheaply and should work with the diesel. I used to launch my 914-4 in 2nd gear at the auto-x so with the diesel you should be fine in second. That removes the weakest part of the trans.

Cooling should be easy as this engine only really produces heat under load. So a small rad should be easy. Just look at the size of the stock Rabbit Rad and calculate the cooling area. Then find something that fits. You might be able to use a couple well placed Heater cores from a large truck, and get enough airflow to keep the front trunk like Brant's oil coolers on his race car.

I love cheap builds, and mine start that way and spin out of control with while I am in their itis.



Posted by: PatrickB Jul 5 2018, 10:43 AM

QUOTE(914forme @ Jul 5 2018, 10:49 AM) *

I used to Auto-x an A3 Jetta, loved that little car.

Fooling the actuator is pretty easy, most people just used an aquarium air valve, old school. Small restrictor will also work.

As far as the 901 goes you will be fine. The Evil Dr. will be a great resource I would look for an H or HA 5th, and play around with the rest of the gearing. His Evil one can tell you what gears can be sourced cheaply and should work with the diesel. I used to launch my 914-4 in 2nd gear at the auto-x so with the diesel you should be fine in second. That removes the weakest part of the trans.

Cooling should be easy as this engine only really produces heat under load. So a small rad should be easy. Just look at the size of the stock Rabbit Rad and calculate the cooling area. Then find something that fits. You might be able to use a couple well placed Heater cores from a large truck, and get enough airflow to keep the front trunk like Brant's oil coolers on his race car.

I love cheap builds, and mine start that way and spin out of control with while I am in their itis.


What |I did to fool the waste gate on the K14 was pull out one of the banjo bolts and drill a small hole to bleed a little boost off the signal line. Neater than a valve and incognito. Just keep going a little bigger hole until I get where I want to be. Apparently this engine is good for about 30 pounds without head studs. No point going that high without an intercooler though.20 pounds is lots. The K14 actually is adjustable but I was afraid of breaking the bolt off. T3 is not adjustable. Might pull the same trick on it.
As for cooling, plan is to get the engine sitting in place, then figure out what room is left. Then make a trip to a wrecking yard with a tape measure... I'd like to use the rad out of a mark 3 golf (2 fans) I have sitting here but I don't think it will fit... unless I can mount it across the front of the engine bay a little low and on an angle, air flow directed from under the car. Not counting on that. I've been running diesels for a long time and you're right, they don't make a lot of heat unless they're working hard. My kid was showing me pictures of Honda rads that might work. VW Fox should work but probably hard to find.

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 17 2018, 03:58 AM

How critical is it to have the crankshaft of the engine on the same alignment as the previous engine? I currently have the engine in the car, but I'm running into a snag. the back end of the valve cover is touching the sheet metal that separates the engine compartment from the trunk, and I'm still over an inch lower than where I should be to have everything line up the same and allow me to use the stock crossmember at the front. There's already been a hole cut out of the sheetmetal by the previous owner to allow access to a distributor on a V8 he had in it with a nice patch panel held in place with a screw. I can cut the hole bigger if need be.
Other option is to find all the parts to tip the engine over farther, the adaptor will allow me to do it. There's an oil pan and pump available, but the pump is for the gas engine and is smaller than the diesel oil pump. Not my preferred option... Also shift s the weight more off centre.

Posted by: 914forme Jul 17 2018, 06:34 AM

To answer your question if it was just the engine, it does not matter at all. It can go anywhere you want it to go. Since you have the 901 you might want to go with the stock location of the 901. Might.

So lots of people have built adapters to move engines forward with the 901. Renegade I think has one that moves the engine and trans forward. If you need to shift to the side, that becomes more of an issue, as your dealing with mechanical shift linkage.

It can be done just how much work do you want to deal with.

As far as tipping the engine, the pump is one thing, I have a feeling what you really need is the pan and pickup tube. Check the Vanagon of that time, the diesel engine was a water-cooled out of the rabbit, Jetta, etc.... While the Gas version had the Wasserboxer. That gets your engine tilted and down maybe where you need it.

Or cut the trunk wall and build a little box to cover it all backup.

You could just put a dimple into it by smash.gif

Posted by: Dr Evil Jul 17 2018, 08:17 AM

Very cool! Always wanted to see something like this. Hit me up and I can see how we can save $$ and get you want you need. Since you are not afraid to wrench, there are cheaper ways to try out some gears once it is running that will let you dial it in before you spend on more expensive gears. The different ring and pinion would be a costly step, though. Lets explore other options.

Posted by: Chris H. Jul 17 2018, 12:21 PM

Yes the Vanagon diesel oil pan allows you to turn the engine 50 degrees in order to get it under the Vanagon deck lid. Many people use them to install other VW engines into the Vanagon such as the 1.8t or a newer TDI engine. It's a direct bolt up for many inline VW engines. No reason you couldn't use it for a 914 diesel.

You can buy a used one, or maybe contact these guys and see if they will sell just the pan.

http://www.foreignautosupply.com/parts-accessories/67-in-line-4-cylinder-vanagon-engine-conversion-basic-install-kit/#.W04yjy2ZPF0

It's real fancy compared to the stock pan biggrin.gif . Scroll down and you can see how the setup installs into a Vanagon. It's kind of alarming how much it's tilted but since the oil pan compensates it runs just the same as any other engine.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Jul 17 2018, 12:35 PM

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Jul 5 2018, 03:34 AM) *
Maybe a taller ring and pinion and bring all the gears up? Someday...
Besides... I'm CHEAP!


HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!! A new ring and pinion and CHEAP do not go anywhere near each other. The only alternate R&Ps that I am aware of for the 914-based boxes are from the Sporto cars, or custom-made. I'll give you three guesses how cheap those are, and the first two don't count...

The CHEAP way to make your gearing taller is bigger wheels and tires. Get some 18s with 50- or 60-series tires on them and that should drop the revs everywhere. The speedo will be off at that point, though.

--DD

Posted by: 914forme Jul 17 2018, 01:03 PM

To add off Dave's ideas, the Speedo fix is much easier.

On the cheap I used to run a bike speedo $10 and a magnet taped to the CV. Rolled it a couple of rotation like the direction said and I was safe at my venue. No way I was getting a ticket on a service road for going over 10 MPH. Asshole campus cops with nothing better to do but bust a driver for going 2 MPH over a speed limit.

Next level up would be go with a GPS speedo. Many of applications on your phone, some are free but the phone cost.

If you want it in the dash, many options for GPS add ons for the gauge or Speedhut sells one that is enclosed looks similar to the original VDO.

Beyond that taller gearing is way cheaper still.

A proper Passat FWD TDI Transaxle from a FWD is cheaper. What about a five speed out of the late 80s early 90s VW fox it was a longitudinal engine. Mechanical stick, but still might work. Gearing would still be a bit low, but maybe better than the 901

Or a bus trans out of a TDI bus.

Many ways to skin a cat.

Of course you could run drag slicks and just light them up so they grow bigger and bigger and bigger. laugh.gif If this was a TDI then that would be entirely possible.

You could also go with a Subaru MT5 your already running an adapter plate.

Posted by: Porschef Jul 17 2018, 01:47 PM

I don't know the gearing letters, but maybe a nice tall 5th in the 901 is the way to go for now.

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 17 2018, 03:35 PM

QUOTE(914forme @ Jul 17 2018, 08:34 AM) *

To answer your question if it was just the engine, it does not matter at all. It can go anywhere you want it to go. Since you have the 901 you might want to go with the stock location of the 901. Might.

So lots of people have built adapters to move engines forward with the 901. Renegade I think has one that moves the engine and trans forward. If you need to shift to the side, that becomes more of an issue, as your dealing with mechanical shift linkage.

It can be done just how much work do you want to deal with.

As far as tipping the engine, the pump is one thing, I have a feeling what you really need is the pan and pickup tube. Check the Vanagon of that time, the diesel engine was a water-cooled out of the rabbit, Jetta, etc.... While the Gas version had the Wasserboxer. That gets your engine tilted and down maybe where you need it.

Or cut the trunk wall and build a little box to cover it all backup.

You could just put a dimple into it by smash.gif
Tipping the engine without tipping the trans is possible with the adaptor, pan and oil pump available from Vanagon but for a gas engine (smaller oil pump). I think I'm going to cut the hole a little bigger and build a box to cover it. I want to leave the 901 trans in the stock location, and try to have the centreline of the crankshaft in as close to the same place as the original engine as possible.

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 17 2018, 03:38 PM

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jul 17 2018, 10:17 AM) *

Very cool! Always wanted to see something like this. Hit me up and I can see how we can save $$ and get you want you need. Since you are not afraid to wrench, there are cheaper ways to try out some gears once it is running that will let you dial it in before you spend on more expensive gears. The different ring and pinion would be a costly step, though. Lets explore other options.

I will be getting in touch with you at some point. the gearing that's there now will work fine, great for autocross. To take full advantage of the engine though I'd like to see high gear down around 2000rpm at 50 mph, engine will have lots of torque to handle it.
Did I mention I have 2 spare side shift transmission sitting in the corner? smile.gif

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 17 2018, 03:43 PM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jul 17 2018, 02:35 PM) *

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Jul 5 2018, 03:34 AM) *
Maybe a taller ring and pinion and bring all the gears up? Someday...
Besides... I'm CHEAP!


HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!! A new ring and pinion and CHEAP do not go anywhere near each other. The only alternate R&Ps that I am aware of for the 914-based boxes are from the Sporto cars, or custom-made. I'll give you three guesses how cheap those are, and the first two don't count...

The CHEAP way to make your gearing taller is bigger wheels and tires. Get some 18s with 50- or 60-series tires on them and that should drop the revs everywhere. The speedo will be off at that point, though.

--DD

Not much room for taller tires, those are 16" Ronals with 225/55R 16's on the back. Pretty much fills the wheelwell and puts about an 8" wide patch on the road

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 17 2018, 03:44 PM

QUOTE(Porschef @ Jul 17 2018, 03:47 PM) *

I don't know the gearing letters, but maybe a nice tall 5th in the 901 is the way to go for now.

My thought exactly.

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 17 2018, 06:37 PM

Did a little more cutting.... can't get the engine in line with the old position. Means we're into building a custom front crossmember... I had visions of using the stock crossmember to bolt to. It looked like it should work with everything sitting on the floor...Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 17 2018, 06:50 PM

need to clean up the cuts a little more, do some work on a front mount, and do some work on the heater hose lines. One comes off the end of the head and doesn't leave enough room to get a line on. Have to use them fro circulation at least even if I don't put heat in the car..(but I plan to)

Posted by: Porschef Jul 17 2018, 08:02 PM

Keep on keepin' on... beerchug.gif beerchug.gif

Posted by: Dave_Darling Jul 17 2018, 10:29 PM

QUOTE(Porschef @ Jul 17 2018, 12:47 PM) *

I don't know the gearing letters, but maybe a nice tall 5th in the 901 is the way to go for now.


The stock 914 5th gear is the tallest original gear made for the 901-based gearboxes that I know of.

To go taller, you "flip" a gear set--that is, you switch which of the two shafts the gears ride on. There's one gear that goes on the main shaft, and one that goes on the pinion shaft; you move the first gear to the pinion shaft and the second gear to the main shaft.

Usually it's a 3rd gear that gets flipped.

https://members.rennlist.com/chuxter/901&915ratios.htm

--DD

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 18 2018, 03:35 AM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jul 18 2018, 12:29 AM) *

QUOTE(Porschef @ Jul 17 2018, 12:47 PM) *

I don't know the gearing letters, but maybe a nice tall 5th in the 901 is the way to go for now.


The stock 914 5th gear is the tallest original gear made for the 901-based gearboxes that I know of.

To go taller, you "flip" a gear set--that is, you switch which of the two shafts the gears ride on. There's one gear that goes on the main shaft, and one that goes on the pinion shaft; you move the first gear to the pinion shaft and the second gear to the main shaft.

Usually it's a 3rd gear that gets flipped.

https://members.rennlist.com/chuxter/901&915ratios.htm

--DD

Thanks! Good to know.

Posted by: Dr Evil Jul 18 2018, 09:33 AM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jul 18 2018, 12:29 AM) *

QUOTE(Porschef @ Jul 17 2018, 12:47 PM) *

I don't know the gearing letters, but maybe a nice tall 5th in the 901 is the way to go for now.


The stock 914 5th gear is the tallest original gear made for the 901-based gearboxes that I know of.

To go taller, you "flip" a gear set--that is, you switch which of the two shafts the gears ride on. There's one gear that goes on the main shaft, and one that goes on the pinion shaft; you move the first gear to the pinion shaft and the second gear to the main shaft.

Usually it's a 3rd gear that gets flipped.

https://members.rennlist.com/chuxter/901&915ratios.htm

--DD

Because of the base circle on the gear, you can only go so small on the driven gear in 5th. ZD is stock for 914 5th gear and is the tallest stock gear. After that, a flipped H gear set (usually a second gear) is the only other alternative. This is a conversion that has been done hundreds of times without issue. The torque of a diesel wont be an issue in 5th as you are already moving and not trying to break the inertia of being stagnant, or even slow.

Posted by: Porschef Jul 18 2018, 10:43 AM

Ahhh, that explains it. Cool. beerchug.gif

Posted by: porschetub Jul 19 2018, 01:36 AM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jul 5 2018, 08:03 AM) *

I'm wondering about the gearbox... The gearing may be low for a diesel, and I'm wondering how the 901-based box will hold up to diesel torque...

--DD

Yea me too ,even the crappy early model 60 hp diesel Golf motor can eat out an 020 five speed after not that long.

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 19 2018, 03:25 AM

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jul 18 2018, 11:33 AM) *

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jul 18 2018, 12:29 AM) *

QUOTE(Porschef @ Jul 17 2018, 12:47 PM) *

I don't know the gearing letters, but maybe a nice tall 5th in the 901 is the way to go for now.


The stock 914 5th gear is the tallest original gear made for the 901-based gearboxes that I know of.

To go taller, you "flip" a gear set--that is, you switch which of the two shafts the gears ride on. There's one gear that goes on the main shaft, and one that goes on the pinion shaft; you move the first gear to the pinion shaft and the second gear to the main shaft.

Usually it's a 3rd gear that gets flipped.

https://members.rennlist.com/chuxter/901&915ratios.htm

Because of the base circle on the gear, you can only go so small on the driven gear in 5th. ZD is stock for 914 5th gear and is the tallest stock gear. After that, a flipped H gear set (usually a second gear) is the only other alternative. This is a conversion that has been done hundreds of times without issue. The torque of a diesel wont be an issue in 5th as you are already moving and not trying to break the inertia of being stagnant, or even slow.
Sounds like the solution I'll use when I get there, but I don't think it will be this summer. Can you give me a ballpark of what the revs will be at say 60 mph? That's highway cruising gear, not pound on it gear.

--DD



Posted by: PatrickB Jul 19 2018, 03:30 AM

QUOTE(porschetub @ Jul 19 2018, 03:36 AM) *

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jul 5 2018, 08:03 AM) *

I'm wondering about the gearbox... The gearing may be low for a diesel, and I'm wondering how the 901-based box will hold up to diesel torque...

--DD

Yea me too ,even the crappy early model 60 hp diesel Golf motor can eat out an 020 five speed after not that long.

Been running this exact engine on an 020 for a lot of years. Put at least 350,000 kms on it. Replaced one gearbox about 15 years ago not long after I got the car. I guess it depends how you use it.... I don't baby it though. The fuel and boost was turned up a lot of years ago, I'm not shy with the throttle, and I occasionally pull a 1000 pound tent trailer with it. I don't think I'll have problems with the 901. I do run synthetic oil in the 020 though... I wonder if that helps? Made it shift smoother.

Posted by: 914forme Jul 19 2018, 12:56 PM

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Jul 19 2018, 05:25 AM) *


Can you give me a ballpark of what the revs will be at say 60 mph? That's highway cruising gear, not pound on it gear.



Yes I can, depends on your trie size as it determines you overall ratio.

Stock R&P Tires are 225/55-16

ZD 2500 RPM
HA 2200 RPM
H 2050 RPM

All approximates the graphs have not real great resolution to give the RPM down to the 1 RPM increments.

Posted by: Dr Evil Jul 19 2018, 01:26 PM

I thought the little diesels like to rev high, though? The little 240D Mercedes I had would be screaming at fwy speeds. I actually though it was missing a gear.

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 19 2018, 02:30 PM

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jul 19 2018, 03:26 PM) *

I thought the little diesels like to rev high, though? The little 240D Mercedes I had would be screaming at fwy speeds. I actually though it was missing a gear.

Depends which one. engine was hooked to a VW 020 trans that had the engine turning 2641 at 100 kph (about 62 mph). This is a 1.9 Diesel mechanical fuel injection. Wasn't sold in the US. With the small turbo it's making lots of boost by 2000 rpm. Lots of torque, was always going to put together a trans with a taller final drive (3.67 instead of 3.94) with a big overdrive to drop the rpm at highway speeds but never got around to it. And the 914 weighs a lot less than the jetta... Jetta is about 2500 pounds.
I've gone with a little bigger turbo that's more efficient and expect to have to rev a little higher to get good boost, but I still think there's lots of torque for more gear. the earlier smaller engines (1.5, 1.6 with or without turbos) don't have as much torque.

Posted by: Dr Evil Jul 20 2018, 12:18 PM

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Jul 19 2018, 04:30 PM) *

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jul 19 2018, 03:26 PM) *

I thought the little diesels like to rev high, though? The little 240D Mercedes I had would be screaming at fwy speeds. I actually though it was missing a gear.

Depends which one. engine was hooked to a VW 020 trans that had the engine turning 2641 at 100 kph (about 62 mph). This is a 1.9 Diesel mechanical fuel injection. Wasn't sold in the US. With the small turbo it's making lots of boost by 2000 rpm. Lots of torque, was always going to put together a trans with a taller final drive (3.67 instead of 3.94) with a big overdrive to drop the rpm at highway speeds but never got around to it. And the 914 weighs a lot less than the jetta... Jetta is about 2500 pounds.
I've gone with a little bigger turbo that's more efficient and expect to have to rev a little higher to get good boost, but I still think there's lots of torque for more gear. the earlier smaller engines (1.5, 1.6 with or without turbos) don't have as much torque.

That seems like a normal aircooled range. The diesel revs high for a watercooled, and normal to low for an aircooled wink.gif

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 20 2018, 12:47 PM

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jul 20 2018, 02:18 PM) *

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Jul 19 2018, 04:30 PM) *

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jul 19 2018, 03:26 PM) *

I thought the little diesels like to rev high, though? The little 240D Mercedes I had would be screaming at fwy speeds. I actually though it was missing a gear.

Depends which one. engine was hooked to a VW 020 trans that had the engine turning 2641 at 100 kph (about 62 mph). This is a 1.9 Diesel mechanical fuel injection. Wasn't sold in the US. With the small turbo it's making lots of boost by 2000 rpm. Lots of torque, was always going to put together a trans with a taller final drive (3.67 instead of 3.94) with a big overdrive to drop the rpm at highway speeds but never got around to it. And the 914 weighs a lot less than the jetta... Jetta is about 2500 pounds.
I've gone with a little bigger turbo that's more efficient and expect to have to rev a little higher to get good boost, but I still think there's lots of torque for more gear. the earlier smaller engines (1.5, 1.6 with or without turbos) don't have as much torque.

That seems like a normal aircooled range. The diesel revs high for a watercooled, and normal to low for an aircooled wink.gif

IF my speedo and tach are right in the 914, then it turns about 2800 at 60 mph. Not saying it's correct mind you. It's all I've got to go by.
The Jetta was originally a gas 1.8 (same block as the diesel pretty much) and was geared to turn about 2900 at 100 k when I got it. Reving too high in my opinion for the diesel. That's why I went with the trans that I already had on the Diesel when I put the car together.

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 20 2018, 12:52 PM

double post...

Posted by: Chris914n6 Jul 20 2018, 02:52 PM

re:position...

RH has trans blocks that move the drivetrain back 1.5" and down 3/4" to fit the SBC. With my VQ30 swap I took 2 pairs, moved the drivetrain forward that 1.5" and down 1.5" so the crap on the back of the motor would clear the truck wall. Oil pan is level with the floor pan and still use the crossbar mounts.

Posted by: Porschef Jul 26 2018, 04:25 AM

Is there a specific year group of the trannys that will bolt right up to the ALH? I'd assume 99-05 or so? A model #?

Have a friend who's in the Netherlands right now, I've informed him that I'm in search of one... smile.gif

TIA

Posted by: PatrickB Aug 6 2018, 01:31 PM

Engine is mounted, working on trying to put a rad in the engine compartment. I have one I can get in, not sure it's big enough though with the airflow it will get where it will be. Has a fan on it though.

Made a new crossmember to mount the front of the engine, bolted it to the stock location. Used a VW mount on the right side of the motor, we'll see if I need to add one on the left side after I get it running. VW mounts them at 3 points, not 4. Going to try it and see what happens. Sitting pretty nice at the moment but no torque on it. yet... Not sure if I can get away without bridging over the gearshift rod either. Attached Image Attached Image

Posted by: PatrickB Aug 8 2018, 04:34 AM

Open to thoughts from those that have done other swaps...

Posted by: 914forme Aug 8 2018, 06:51 AM

What wall thickness is the crossbar?

What I don't like, is the bar is notched, and also appears to be bent in the same location. That is the weakest point of that bar. That and the side mount of the engine which would be the rear on the VW is an over hang or fulcrum for the torque to twist that mount.

Make the shifter area a hole and add a section above it and triangulate that area to make it stronger.

Do something, what I am not sure to pickup the rear (side) engine mount better. VW drops that mount right into the lower suspension crossbar. It is a huge piece of metal that takes all that movement and transfers it directly to the wheels.

On Higher HP installs you have to change the factory mount otherwise you get wheel hop as everything fights for grip and to apply the forces induced by the torque wishing to move the entire assembly.

You could also reduce this tendency by using a chain to limit the transfer of torque in the rotational axis. From the drivers side of the frame to the drives side of the engine. Oh and I mean chain, like you want Kerberos to be restrained by when you stumble up the gates he is guarding. You do not want to deal with a 3 headed dog breaking his chain and chasing you across the regions unless your the bait to get others past the gate.

This would be the one install where a cradle might be a great idea to help keep all these forces in check.

What does your side mounts look like from the bar to the chassis? Solid, or stock 914-4 mounts installed back in the 70s?

Since your using the VW mounts in your systems I would swap out to solid mounts on the outboard side. Make these ridged as hell, I mean solid. Steel on steel on steel with new grade 8 or 8.8 hardware or better. Do not skimp on this one area, and you will be happy. Skimping on this area will lead to great deals of pain and frustration.

Posted by: PatrickB Aug 8 2018, 10:36 AM

QUOTE(914forme @ Aug 8 2018, 08:51 AM) *

What wall thickness is the crossbar?

What I don't like, is the bar is notched, and also appears to be bent in the same location. That is the weakest point of that bar. That and the side mount of the engine which would be the rear on the VW is an over hang or fulcrum for the torque to twist that mount.

Make the shifter area a hole and add a section above it and triangulate that area to make it stronger.

Do something, what I am not sure to pickup the rear (side) engine mount better. VW drops that mount right into the lower suspension crossbar. It is a huge piece of metal that takes all that movement and transfers it directly to the wheels.

On Higher HP installs you have to change the factory mount otherwise you get wheel hop as everything fights for grip and to apply the forces induced by the torque wishing to move the entire assembly.

You could also reduce this tendency by using a chain to limit the transfer of torque in the rotational axis. From the drivers side of the frame to the drives side of the engine. Oh and I mean chain, like you want Kerberos to be restrained by when you stumble up the gates he is guarding. You do not want to deal with a 3 headed dog breaking his chain and chasing you across the regions unless your the bait to get others past the gate.

This would be the one install where a cradle might be a great idea to help keep all these forces in check.

What does your side mounts look like from the bar to the chassis? Solid, or stock 914-4 mounts installed back in the 70s?

Since your using the VW mounts in your systems I would swap out to solid mounts on the outboard side. Make these ridged as hell, I mean solid. Steel on steel on steel with new grade 8 or 8.8 hardware or better. Do not skimp on this one area, and you will be happy. Skimping on this area will lead to great deals of pain and frustration.


Didn't want to notch the bar, but had to in order to get enough rotation on the shifter to get to all the gears. Already seriously considering a bridge over the cutout. It is boxed in already. Bar is a piece of heavy wall 1 by 2 tubing, bent a total of 2 inches out of line on the horizontal, no bend on the vertical. Bent on a press, 2 bends centred on 20 inches each with about 5/8" deflection give or take. Had to bend for clearance or cut and weld. Mounts to body are solid, which is the way the car was when I bought it with the 2 l engine. Hardware is grade 10... The mount I used is complete including the part that bolts to the crossmember in the mark 2. It bolts to 2 upright pieces, gusseted solid between them, welded to a plate that's welded to the bar. said plate is gusseted underneath to the bar too. I'm not at all concerned about this mount except that it's so far off center. I am concerned that there might be too much movement when torque is applied.
Trans mounts on the back are some form of solid Delrin with aluminum I believe, also the way I bought the car.
3rd mount on this engine in the stock location would have been at the back of the block, haven't figured out a good way to do that. Have thought about another mount on the left side at the front using the power steering mount casting, still thinking. Thought about a chain on the left already, I've seen it before on big motors in little cars. This one isn't THAT big an engine but it does make good torque.
Appreciate the input! Backed up all the things I've been thinking and trying to solve.

Posted by: PatrickB Aug 8 2018, 11:03 AM

Not the best picture but shows the construction of the mount. For those not familiar with old VW water cooled, there's a big rubber donut in that goes in the opening with a bolt through the middle. Plate on top of the donut has 3 bolts that tie it to the casting off the engine.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Chris914n6 Aug 8 2018, 03:25 PM

You need a drivers side engine mount. No doubt about it.

You can hard mount the crossbar to the engine and use 911 engine sport mounts at the body. I'll see if I have a clear pic of my setup.

Attached Image

Can't see it behind the exhaust but the tube is vertical with a 3" gusset. Tube is 1.5" thick wall and plates are iirc 3/16". It's 20-30 lbs beefy or at least it feels like it. Bolts to the factory engine mounts.

Posted by: PatrickB Aug 9 2018, 05:22 AM

QUOTE(Chris914n6 @ Aug 8 2018, 05:25 PM) *

You need a drivers side engine mount. No doubt about it.

You can hard mount the crossbar to the engine and use 911 engine sport mounts at the body. I'll see if I have a clear pic of my setup.



Thanks, looking forward to seeing it. I think we'll use what we've got short term with another mount on the other side, but may build something else in the long run. soft mounts at the bar to the body makes a lot of sense to me.

Posted by: stownsen914 Aug 9 2018, 07:29 AM

Agreed with reinforcing your crossbar where the notch is. The first version of my fabricated mount/crossbar for a 911 engine in a /4 chassis broke in the middle due to flexing. Fixed by triangulating in my case.

Cool project, by the way!

Posted by: PatrickB Aug 9 2018, 09:45 AM

QUOTE(stownsen914 @ Aug 9 2018, 09:29 AM) *

Agreed with reinforcing your crossbar where the notch is. The first version of my fabricated mount/crossbar for a 911 engine in a /4 chassis broke in the middle due to flexing. Fixed by triangulating in my case.

Cool project, by the way!

Thanks. Next issue:
Rad should be mounted by the end of the day. Honda civic rad and fan of unknown vintage is going in beside the motor driver's side. According to Kennedy's sheet it should be big enough. It will work to try, if it's not big enough I'll have to go custom to keep the rad in this location.
VW inline 4 cooling system of this vintage has an overflow bottle that plumbs into the system 2 ways . Bottom of the bottle has a fitting that hooks to the heater hose lines. Pressure cap is on the bottle and is the fill point for the system. It also has a small fitting on the top of the bottle that allows a small flow, I think it's an easy way for the sytem to bleed itself among other things. I've seen the line to the top of the bottle come from 3 different places depending on the year of the car.
1) out of the top of the rad
2) part of the upper rad hose molded in
3) out of the fitting on the front of the engine that feeds the top rad hose. This is the one I'm set up with.

Thermostat is at water pump (lower rad hose at engine)

I have a bottle out of the same type of car the engine came from, not finding a good spot to mount it. Should be the high point in the system...
May have to put it in the trunk but trying to keep everything in the engine bay.
Any suggestions? Need a pressurized reservoir with a heater hose fitting on the bottom and a small hose on top.
MAY try to use a standard overflow bottle out of something if I can find one to fit, and take a rad hose off to fill the engine or put in a bleed somewhere on the top rad hose if I have to. The Honda rad does have a pressure cap.

Posted by: Rob-O Aug 20 2018, 10:47 AM

subscribed!

Posted by: PatrickB Aug 20 2018, 01:59 PM

Honda rad installed. Lower rad hose from mk 2 jetta is a direct fit. Upper hose is going to have to be a cut and add a solid piece in the middle deal... having to make a custom piece for a heater hose hookup on the back of the head, not enough room for a stock part. Going without heat for the moment but want to install a heat/defrost box later. Came up with a cone type K&N filter at the Bothwell car show (huge 1 day show about 2 miles from my house) that I made fit with some stainless pipe and a rubber elbow. Need to add a support brace to make sure it stays put. Still need fuel lines, wiring, and exhaust to make it runnable. Would like to run it at the autocross this weekend but don't think I'm going to make it.

Posted by: 2mAn Aug 21 2018, 10:59 AM

I had visions of a watercooled VW motor install... Rad could be mounted on one side of the engine bay, and an intercooler on the other... with your metal sculpted sides, the scoops from a Boxster may fit like they were meant to be there

Posted by: PatrickB Aug 25 2018, 05:12 PM

QUOTE(Rob-O @ Aug 20 2018, 12:47 PM) *

subscribed!

You were right, at least the main part of the shell is the black car. Took the seats and backpad out so we could do a small repair on the hinge mounts for the engine bay door... car was black. Both doors and part of the front at least off the blue car. that must have been scary to have the 360 running right beside you looking at the size of the hole in the firewall!

Posted by: porschetub Aug 25 2018, 10:30 PM

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Jul 19 2018, 09:30 PM) *

QUOTE(porschetub @ Jul 19 2018, 03:36 AM) *

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jul 5 2018, 08:03 AM) *

I'm wondering about the gearbox... The gearing may be low for a diesel, and I'm wondering how the 901-based box will hold up to diesel torque...

--DD

Yea me too ,even the crappy early model 60 hp diesel Golf motor can eat out an 020 five speed after not that long.

Been running this exact engine on an 020 for a lot of years. Put at least 350,000 kms on it. Replaced one gearbox about 15 years ago not long after I got the car. I guess it depends how you use it.... I don't baby it though. The fuel and boost was turned up a lot of years ago, I'm not shy with the throttle, and I occasionally pull a 1000 pound tent trailer with it. I don't think I'll have problems with the 901. I do run synthetic oil in the 020 though... I wonder if that helps? Made it shift smoother.


No was joking really this box had been abused,no guestion about it ,was told it was fine by the PO and was pissed of just for the hassle of changing it as I payed little for it,my son drove the car after fitting and said it was shifting ok but made a "strange noise",turned out the crownwheel was on the way to migrating out the bottom of the gearbox,after years of working on Golfs this was the first case of breaking diff rivets I had come across.
Good luck with what you are doing,I like it when people think out of the square,will be following your progress beerchug.gif .

Posted by: PatrickB Aug 26 2018, 03:55 AM

QUOTE(porschetub @ Aug 26 2018, 12:30 AM) *

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Jul 19 2018, 09:30 PM) *

QUOTE(porschetub @ Jul 19 2018, 03:36 AM) *

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jul 5 2018, 08:03 AM) *

I'm wondering about the gearbox... The gearing may be low for a diesel, and I'm wondering how the 901-based box will hold up to diesel torque...

--DD

Yea me too ,even the crappy early model 60 hp diesel Golf motor can eat out an 020 five speed after not that long.

Been running this exact engine on an 020 for a lot of years. Put at least 350,000 kms on it. Replaced one gearbox about 15 years ago not long after I got the car. I guess it depends how you use it.... I don't baby it though. The fuel and boost was turned up a lot of years ago, I'm not shy with the throttle, and I occasionally pull a 1000 pound tent trailer with it. I don't think I'll have problems with the 901. I do run synthetic oil in the 020 though... I wonder if that helps? Made it shift smoother.


No was joking really this box had been abused,no guestion about it ,was told it was fine by the PO and was pissed of just for the hassle of changing it as I payed little for it,my son drove the car after fitting and said it was shifting ok but made a "strange noise",turned out the crownwheel was on the way to migrating out the bottom of the gearbox,after years of working on Golfs this was the first case of breaking diff rivets I had come across.
Good luck with what you are doing,I like it when people think out of the square,will be following your progress beerchug.gif .

I did buy one VW with an 020 that had a gear coming through the case.... but it was an original tranny in a car that had 450,000 kms on it. I can live with that. I think the 901 should be at least as strong as the 020. Besides, I have 2 spares! evilgrin.gif

Update: Rad is now hooked top and bottom, waiting on a neighbour (millwright/machinist) to finish making me a custom water outlet for the back of the head so we can get it hooke up without more body surgery. All that's left after that is fuel, wiring, and a trip to the exhaust shop. Pipe off the turbo is straight up for now just to keep the engine bay clean for the trip to the muffler shop.

Posted by: 914forme Aug 26 2018, 08:25 AM

av-943.gif Your not going with a trash can stack poking out the engine bay. All the kids are doing it now with their diesel Pickumuptrucks. rolleyes.gif

In reality your closing in on this, I sure would not let a neighbor slow me down, I would be wiring, adding fuel, and might even just tack a system together and take it to the shop to have one made.

Oh hell who am I kidding I would break out the MIG and TIG and get it done. welder.gif sawzall-smiley.gif smash.gif

Posted by: PatrickB Sep 2 2018, 08:11 AM

Attached Image Attached ImageAttached Image
Rad in, custom water outlet from back of head for space...
Working on fuel today. removing electric pump from under the tank. the injection pump has it's own vane pump in the front for a primary pump. Wouldn't hurt to leave the electric, but it would run constantly instead of shutting off because the injection pump bypasses excess fuel back to the tank. Would make priming the system really easy but I don't want to listen to it.
The exhaust is straight up just until I get to the muffler shop.

Posted by: Porschef Sep 2 2018, 08:56 AM

No shit... Well would you look at THAT!!


piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif

beerchug.gif beerchug.gif


Posted by: Rob-O Sep 2 2018, 11:39 AM

Nice!

Posted by: PatrickB Sep 2 2018, 12:37 PM

QUOTE(Rob-O @ Sep 2 2018, 01:39 PM) *

Nice!

Lots to do yet.... Need some fuel line. Nothing open close today, nothing tomorrow anywhere here. For now using a big inline filter under the tank. Wanted to use the mk 2 diesel filter setup and still might down the road, but it will require some more fabrication and I want to get this up and running. Need to hook a return line back up to the tank. The hard line from front to back is still there but the flex line at the front isn't. Got the upholstery out so we can do a little repair to the hinge for the engine bay door without starting a fire... Marc did have a pretty big hole cut in the firewall didn't he! Attached Image

Posted by: tomeric914 Sep 2 2018, 01:38 PM

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Sep 2 2018, 10:11 AM) *

Attached Image
The exhaust is straight up just until I get to the muffler shop.

YES! Straight up chrome stack with a flapper on it. Don't complicate things with an exhaust out the back.

Posted by: Rob-O Sep 2 2018, 03:20 PM

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Sep 2 2018, 10:37 AM) *

QUOTE(Rob-O @ Sep 2 2018, 01:39 PM) *

Nice!

Lots to do yet.... Need some fuel line. Nothing open close today, nothing tomorrow anywhere here. For now using a big inline filter under the tank. Wanted to use the mk 2 diesel filter setup and still might down the road, but it will require some more fabrication and I want to get this up and running. Need to hook a return line back up to the tank. The hard line from front to back is still there but the flex line at the front isn't. Got the upholstery out so we can do a little repair to the hinge for the engine bay door without starting a fire... Marc did have a pretty big hole cut in the firewall didn't he! Attached Image


He did. I wasn’t lying when I said that the crank pulley was an inch from my elbow when he had the 360 in there. Super dangerous...no loose clothing!

Posted by: 914forme Sep 2 2018, 03:41 PM

QUOTE(tomeric914 @ Sep 2 2018, 03:38 PM) *

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Sep 2 2018, 10:11 AM) *

Attached Image
The exhaust is straight up just until I get to the muffler shop.

YES! Straight up chrome stack with a flapper on it. Don't complicate things with an exhaust out the back.

agree.gif And the technical term is a rain cap.

Posted by: PatrickB Sep 2 2018, 06:54 PM

QUOTE(914forme @ Sep 2 2018, 05:41 PM) *

QUOTE(tomeric914 @ Sep 2 2018, 03:38 PM) *

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Sep 2 2018, 10:11 AM) *

Attached Image
The exhaust is straight up just until I get to the muffler shop.

YES! Straight up chrome stack with a flapper on it. Don't complicate things with an exhaust out the back.

agree.gif And the technical term is a rain cap.


Well.... My kid and I have talked about going straight up, but just as a joke. Probably black with a rain cap for that farmer look.... What's there now is part of a factory pipe for a '93 golf just flipped upside down. Not hard to make this engine smoke like a pulling tractor, just have to spend a few minutes adjusting fuel delivery. I will take a video of it running this way before it goes to the exhaust shop just for grins and giggles.
Initial plan for the exhaust is just a straight pipe out the back. A turbo makes a pretty fair muffler all on it's own. This engine is quieter with no muffler than the 2L was with a muffler by a long shot. If I don't like it there's lots of room to hang a muffler across the back of the car.... maybe like something off an old Camaro with two exhaust outlets just to confuse everyone.

Posted by: Porschef Sep 3 2018, 06:07 AM

Really impressed with the conversion, it seems to fit so well in the bay. I'm curious to see how your radiator setup works.

Will the engine cover fit in there? It's not that important, it's kinda big, but would serve to really tidy up the install.

Can't wait to see how this all works out for you, great build. beerchug.gif

Posted by: PatrickB Sep 3 2018, 05:16 PM

QUOTE(Porschef @ Sep 3 2018, 08:07 AM) *

Really impressed with the conversion, it seems to fit so well in the bay. I'm curious to see how your radiator setup works.

Will the engine cover fit in there? It's not that important, it's kinda big, but would serve to really tidy up the install.

Can't wait to see how this all works out for you, great build. beerchug.gif

I think there's a little misunderstanding about what engine this is.
This is an AAZ 1.9 indirect injection diesel that was never sold in the states as far as I know. Sold for about 5 years in Canada ending in '98. no computer control, straight mechanical fuel injection. One wire on a fuel shutoff solenoid to make it run. NOT the TDI that they sold a little later here and in the US. This engine came as you see it here, no cover.
Not sure if the cover would fit the engine but probably. Engine shares SOME parts with the later TDI. I like it open and easy to get at everything anyway!
beerchug.gif

Posted by: PatrickB Sep 4 2018, 06:52 PM

Road block....
Hooking fuel lines. No return line with previous carbureted 2 litre.
removed electric pump under the tank, direct connect from tank to the line to the back of the car.
Went to hook the return line to the other nipple on the bottom of the tank... plugged off.
Screwed it out of the tank. I don't think the return on the diesel should go into the bottom, it should probably dump in the top of the tank. I think I'll need to make a new return with a pipe all the way to the top of the tank. Anyone know what size rubbers I need to put this back together? Or is this even stock on these tanks? First time I've had the tank out.Attached Image Attached Image

Posted by: PatrickB Sep 8 2018, 02:56 PM

Had it fired up today but the injection pump ran out of fuel before the system filled. Done for today. Need to get the wheels back on, set it on the ground, fill the tank to the top with diesel and bleed the system.
I have a throttle cable issue... I'd like to have a cable about a foot longer with about an inch more sticking out of the housing. It's hooked but only just. And it's starting to fray... Anyone this side of the border know a good source for cables? And is there a stock cable for something else that fits my wants?? Or am I looking at a custom cable?
The other option is to blacksmith my cable mounting point and/or use the end of the Jetta cable hooked to the Porsche cable.... messy.Attached Image

Posted by: Chris H. Sep 8 2018, 03:58 PM

Terrycable will make you one. I had one made a foot longer than stock. Just give them a call and tell them what you want. I think it's (800) 854-4691.

Posted by: PatrickB Sep 8 2018, 04:17 PM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Sep 8 2018, 05:58 PM) *

Terrycable will make you one. I had one made a foot longer than stock. Just give them a call and tell them what you want. I think it's (800) 854-4691.

Thanks but hoping to find something this side of the border... and close. Dealing with Canada customs is just aggravating. London/Windsor/Sarnia area if possible. Will call them if I don't find anything close though!

Posted by: PatrickB Sep 9 2018, 06:00 PM

IT'S ALIVE!!

https://youtu.be/6BwvBVNTJbQ

Posted by: Rob-O Sep 9 2018, 06:18 PM

Cool...but we need something longer than six seconds!!

Posted by: PatrickB Sep 9 2018, 06:34 PM

QUOTE(Rob-O @ Sep 9 2018, 08:18 PM) *

Cool...but we need something longer than six seconds!!


Give me a day or two. Ran it for 20 minutes or so, didn't get hot. Did find an oil leak, apparently I didn't screw the oil pressure sensor in the back of the head tight enough. Oil pressure light works, stock temp gauge hooked to VW sender in water system shows jus over 1/2 when I measured 165 or so on the head. All good! Need to do some garage cleanup and put the trunk lid back on, seats back in... Needs to get pulled outside, washed, and a proper test drive as soon as that happens. Want to get it to the exhaust shop later this week and get rid of the stack..... but my kid just wants to put a 3 inch pipe straight up with a rain cap.

Posted by: 914forme Sep 9 2018, 07:16 PM

I say rock the stack, just except it, and move on. Or have the exhaust shop plumb it as a cut out, and flip a switch and go out the stack.

I used to auto-x a MK3 TDI, and would have to tell the flag man to step back, because my launches where defiantly rolling coal.

Even heard the announcer the the onlookers, yes that car is a diesel, and yes that cloud is normal.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Sep 9 2018, 07:42 PM

For the throttle, perhaps you could take inspiration from the 911 and 914-6, and fabricate a bellcrank linkage? You ought to be able to find a good place for the bellcrank, then a few rods and rod ends, and you can use the stock cable to run that...

--DD

Posted by: PatrickB Sep 10 2018, 03:21 AM

Too much coal too.... Engine would already do that, but I think it's worse with the bigger turbo. Harder to spool.... Need to get that under control. Might wind up going back to the smaller turbo.

Posted by: PatrickB Sep 10 2018, 04:45 PM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Sep 9 2018, 09:42 PM) *

For the throttle, perhaps you could take inspiration from the 911 and 914-6, and fabricate a bellcrank linkage? You ought to be able to find a good place for the bellcrank, then a few rods and rod ends, and you can use the stock cable to run that...

--DD


Maybe.... have to do some looking at it.

Posted by: PatrickB Sep 11 2018, 06:37 PM

Had it out for a drive for 20 minutes or so, got a few issues left.

1)HAVE to do the throttle cable, it's turned so tight it's binding up. Added a return spring so it is drivable but not a permanent solution. Found a local supplier but I'm assuming I need exact measurements for him.... I can easily figure out how much to add but might need to pull the old cable for measurements... unless someone can tell me stock length of the housing and stock length of the cable? Thread size on the pedal end?

2) Going to wind up using the radiator fan more than I was hoping for, but it will work as is where is with the fan running. Honda civic rad and the fan that came with it doing the trick even with the bad placement.

3) Going for exhaust Thursday. Even straight up right behind the window the car is quieter than it was with the 4 into one off heater boxes that it came with. Probably going to try a straight pipe out the back to start with and see if I can live with it.

4) Need to plumb the crankcase vent somewhere.... spitting a little oil out. Hoping to find an old style filter to put on the end of the hose. Don't really want to plumb it into the air intake unless I have to. Not worried about an emissions test on this car here.

Pulls better than the air cooled motor did! beer.gif

Posted by: PatrickB Sep 15 2018, 04:06 PM

First time out at the autocross with the diesel. A little overfueled.... need to put the smaller turbo back on, too much lag.Attached Image
37C ambient temperature on the way home... (99F). Couldn't run past about 60 mph without the overflow on the rad starting to burp. Was running straight water to make sure I had no leaks. Going to switch to proper coolant but I'm assuming I need to at least go to a better fan. Anyone know something that is a direct swap on the 90's Honda civic rad that works better? I'm going to try a better fan before I try to put a bigger rad in. I like the way everything fits now.

Posted by: Dr Evil Sep 18 2018, 01:42 PM

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Sep 15 2018, 06:06 PM) *

First time out at the autocross with the diesel. A little overfueled.... need to put the smaller turbo back on, too much lag.Attached Image
37C ambient temperature on the way home... (99F). Couldn't run past about 60 mph without the overflow on the rad starting to burp. Was running straight water to make sure I had no leaks. Going to switch to proper coolant but I'm assuming I need to at least go to a better fan. Anyone know something that is a direct swap on the 90's Honda civic rad that works better? I'm going to try a better fan before I try to put a bigger rad in. I like the way everything fits now.

Holy shit. I am experiencing simultaneous awe and hilarity. Very cool!

Posted by: PatrickB Sep 18 2018, 04:30 PM

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Sep 18 2018, 03:42 PM) *

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Sep 15 2018, 06:06 PM) *

First time out at the autocross with the diesel. A little overfueled.... need to put the smaller turbo back on, too much lag.Attached Image
37C ambient temperature on the way home... (99F). Couldn't run past about 60 mph without the overflow on the rad starting to burp. Was running straight water to make sure I had no leaks. Going to switch to proper coolant but I'm assuming I need to at least go to a better fan. Anyone know something that is a direct swap on the 90's Honda civic rad that works better? I'm going to try a better fan before I try to put a bigger rad in. I like the way everything fits now.

Holy shit. I am experiencing simultaneous awe and hilarity. Very cool!


Thanks! I'm happy with the progress so far. More work to do yet though. Dropped the throttle cable off tonight at a custom place not far away... hoping they can make me a new one about a foot longer with a different end at the engine end of the cable. Picked up an adaptor to hook the diesel's alternator up to run the factory tach, should help with autocrossing. I know the engine pretty well from putting a lot of miles on it in another car, but it sounds different in this car and with a different turbo. Guessing too much at rpms.
beerchug.gif

Posted by: 914forme Sep 18 2018, 06:57 PM

lots of Civic Rads that are of "better" quality by nature, but they might not be the best quality by manufacturing process.

So I would just look for an All Aluminum Radiator that fits the donor vehicle your radiator came from.

https://www.mishimoto.com/honda-civic-radiator-aluminum-performance-92-00-triple.html

But then you can also find them on Ebay and Amazon all day long, just from a less know manufacturer.

Posted by: PatrickB Sep 19 2018, 06:40 PM

Got the tach working tonight with the help of an adaptor box from Dakota digital. takes signal from the w terminal on the alternator and converts it to run the 4 cyl VDO gas tach. Adjustable.... I think it's set close. Need to get it back out ont he road to check. Used to show about 2800 at 60 mph so I'm just going to adjust until it matches that. Don't know if 60 on the guage is actually 60... but it will be close enough to suit me.

Didn't think it was working at first... but then I remembered that standard practice in the old jetta used to be to blip the throttle once to make the alternator kick in. Problem solved!
Now waiting for a throttle cable. MIGHT have it back out this weekend.

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 6 2019, 05:14 PM

Should update this thread. Got the throttle cable, works like acharm. Did a few more autocross events last fall. Parked this year so far. trying to get ready for the big event at Mosport... we'll see.

Posted by: 14carrot Jul 8 2019, 09:29 AM

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Jul 6 2019, 03:14 PM) *

Should update this thread. Got the throttle cable, works like acharm. Did a few more autocross events last fall. Parked this year so far. trying to get ready for the big event at Mosport... we'll see.


piratenanner.gif keep going Patrick!!!
I can't wait to see the reaction to your car in the show corral and running parade laps at Mosport!! I'm going to set up camp Friday night, hopefully on the wooded hill overlooking the famous turn 2. Keep in touch, I hope you can pull it off and have it ready beerchug.gif

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 8 2019, 02:12 PM

QUOTE(14carrot @ Jul 8 2019, 11:29 AM) *

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Jul 6 2019, 03:14 PM) *

Should update this thread. Got the throttle cable, works like acharm. Did a few more autocross events last fall. Parked this year so far. trying to get ready for the big event at Mosport... we'll see.


piratenanner.gif keep going Patrick!!!
I can't wait to see the reaction to your car in the show corral and running parade laps at Mosport!! I'm going to set up camp Friday night, hopefully on the wooded hill overlooking the famous turn 2. Keep in touch, I hope you can pull it off and have it ready beerchug.gif


Changed the stock Honda rad for an aftermarket aluminum rad yesterday that should be enough to deal with my minor heat issues. Looks like there's an extra layer of core and aluminum moves heat better than brass. Ordered spacers from maddog so I can get the back end aligned again...
Would like to find a set of bilsteins with a little heavier spring and maybe adjustable perches while I'm at it but they look like they're really hard on my pocketbook... Don't want koni yellows, too many autocrossers here having failure issues with them.
Might be too late to order them stateside and have them in time anyway

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 10 2019, 02:41 PM

Spacers are here from maddog.....
Bit the bullet and ordered a set of coilovers and new bilstiens (auto Atlanta) I hope 140 lb springs isn't overkill!

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 18 2019, 04:59 PM

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Jul 10 2019, 04:41 PM) *

Spacers are here from maddog.....
Bit the bullet and ordered a set of coilovers and new bilstiens (auto Atlanta) I hope 140 lb springs isn't overkill!


Parts are in, fast shipping!
Anyone have a recommendation on which groove to use to put it together? Rigs are in the bottom groove out of the box. I don't think the back of the car is much heavier than stock. Kit came with 150 lb springs...
Attached Image

Posted by: 914forme Jul 19 2019, 06:47 PM

Can't answer the question, I run these with coil over sleeves. I noticed the track outline for the ring. Is this like a rubicon Jeep, and now your car will be Nordschleife certified.

laugh.gif

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 20 2019, 03:53 AM

QUOTE(914forme @ Jul 19 2019, 08:47 PM) *

Can't answer the question, I run these with coil over sleeves. I noticed the track outline for the ring. Is this like a rubicon Jeep, and now your car will be Nordschleife certified.

laugh.gif



Trial and error... Springs are stiff. I'll start with the bottom groove and
see what happens.

Posted by: Bill D Aug 13 2019, 11:51 AM

Greetings Patrick. Any updates on how the new radiator is working? How are the mounts working with the diesel vibration especially at idle?

thanks

Posted by: PatrickB Aug 13 2019, 04:24 PM

QUOTE(Bill D @ Aug 13 2019, 01:51 PM) *

Greetings Patrick. Any updates on how the new radiator is working? How are the mounts working with the diesel vibration especially at idle?

thanks


No issues with the mount. Cooling is borderline... still prototyping ducting around the rad. Because the engine compartment is now open at the bottom I'm pretty sure the airflow is now bottom up. Had to run with the engine lid open to get to Mosport and back. Now running with the lid closed after fencing off the rad to make sure air coming out of the hot side of the rad can't circulate back to the cold side and that air from under the car can't blow past the front of the rad and has to go through. Going t build it better this winter and open up the lid like a GT hood.

Posted by: PatrickB Aug 13 2019, 04:29 PM

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Aug 13 2019, 06:24 PM) *

QUOTE(Bill D @ Aug 13 2019, 01:51 PM) *

Greetings Patrick. Any updates on how the new radiator is working? How are the mounts working with the diesel vibration especially at idle?

thanks


No issues with the mount. Cooling is borderline... still prototyping ducting around the rad. Because the engine compartment is now open at the bottom I'm pretty sure the airflow is now bottom up. Had to run with the engine lid open to get to Mosport and back. Now running with the lid closed after fencing off the rad to make sure air coming out of the hot side of the rad can't circulate back to the cold side and that air from under the car can't blow past the front of the rad and has to go through. Going t build it better this winter and open up the lid like a GT hood.


There is vibration at idle... I think mostly because the trans mounts are pretty much solid smooths right out past a out 1800 rpm.

Posted by: Bill D Aug 19 2019, 02:29 PM

I am using 911 mounts across the bar and have little room for the trans mount to move. Don't know if it would help but I added a second radiator across the back where the muffler used to be. It is plumbed to the heater core outlets on the engine.

Attached Image

Posted by: PatrickB Aug 19 2019, 05:03 PM

QUOTE(Bill D @ Aug 19 2019, 04:29 PM) *

I am using 911 mounts across the bar and have little room for the trans mount to move. Don't know if it would help but I added a second radiator across the back where the muffler used to be. It is plumbed to the heater core outlets on the engine.

Attached Image

Been considering doing exactly that. And/or a heater core where it belongs too. Be nice to have some defogging ability on cold mornings! Don't know how good the airflow would be at the back of mine with the ford probe bumper

Posted by: DRPHIL914 Aug 20 2019, 01:13 PM

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Jul 18 2019, 06:59 PM) *

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Jul 10 2019, 04:41 PM) *

Spacers are here from maddog.....
Bit the bullet and ordered a set of coilovers and new bilstiens (auto Atlanta) I hope 140 lb springs isn't overkill!


Parts are in, fast shipping!
Anyone have a recommendation on which groove to use to put it together? Rigs are in the bottom groove out of the box. I don't think the back of the car is much heavier than stock. Kit came with 150 lb springs...
Attached Image


I have those Bilisteins too, but not the coil overs, but have thought about getting them. on the question about where to set your retaining ring, at least with a stock spring and set up I have found that the top #1 slot is too bouncy, and that in my case #2 or #3 will be best, I am at the #3 from top now and am going to move it up to #2. At #3 I am a bit lower in rear than front than I want to be, and this is easier than having to crank the front down and re do alignment up there. will see how that feels in the seat .

How much did the coil over springs with out the shocks cost?


Posted by: TravisNeff Aug 20 2019, 04:35 PM

I would do the clip on the bottom ring, that is what I did with my Koni's and the threaded perches.

Posted by: PatrickB Jan 11 2020, 09:56 AM

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Aug 19 2019, 07:03 PM) *

QUOTE(Bill D @ Aug 19 2019, 04:29 PM) *

I am using 911 mounts across the bar and have little room for the trans mount to move. Don't know if it would help but I added a second radiator across the back where the muffler used to be. It is plumbed to the heater core outlets on the engine.

Attached Image

Been considering doing exactly that. And/or a heater core where it belings too. Be nice to have some defogging ability on cold mornings! Don't know how good the airflow would be at the back of mine with the ford probe bumper

What did you use for an extra rad at the back? I think I need to do the same.

Posted by: PatrickB Jan 11 2020, 09:58 AM

QUOTE(TravisNeff @ Aug 20 2019, 06:35 PM) *

I would do the clip on the bottom ring, that is what I did with my Koni's and the threaded perches.

Wound up with everything set as high as I could get it to get ride height. Ordering a set of 12" springs to put things where they should be. Not available from Eibach in that diameter. Only place I could find them in 2.25 id over 8 " long were some companies in England. Gambled on one called "Rallynuts". We'll see what happens, just placed the order today. Seems there may or may not be deflection issues with springs in that diameter over 8 " long according to Eibach. We'll see how I make out. I'll post some pictures when I ge tth enew springs on the shocks. Don't expect delivery to be fast when I'm dealing with transatlantic distance!

Posted by: tomeric914 Jan 11 2020, 12:59 PM

Click on the "How-to" thread on coil overs in my signature. Parts are cheap and you have almost unlimited flexibility in spring selection.
shades.gif

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Jan 11 2020, 10:58 AM) *

Wound up with everything set as high as I could get it to get ride height. Ordering a set of 12" springs to put things where they should be. Not available from Eibach in that diameter. Only place I could find them in 2.25 id over 8 " long were some companies in England. Gambled on one called "Rallynuts". We'll see what happens, just placed the order today. Seems there may or may not be deflection issues with springs in that diameter over 8 " long according to Eibach. We'll see how I make out. I'll post some pictures when I ge tth enew springs on the shocks. Don't expect delivery to be fast when I'm dealing with transatlantic distance!

Posted by: PatrickB Jan 11 2020, 02:39 PM

QUOTE(tomeric914 @ Jan 11 2020, 02:59 PM) *

Click on the "How-to" thread on coil overs in my signature. Parts are cheap and you have almost unlimited flexibility in spring selection.
shades.gif

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Jan 11 2020, 10:58 AM) *

Wound up with everything set as high as I could get it to get ride height. Ordering a set of 12" springs to put things where they should be. Not available from Eibach in that diameter. Only place I could find them in 2.25 id over 8 " long were some companies in England. Gambled on one called "Rallynuts". We'll see what happens, just placed the order today. Seems there may or may not be deflection issues with springs in that diameter over 8 " long according to Eibach. We'll see how I make out. I'll post some pictures when I ge tth enew springs on the shocks. Don't expect delivery to be fast when I'm dealing with transatlantic distance!


thanks, but what I have ordered eliminates the need for the helper spring, I'll post pictures when I get the parts in and put together.

Posted by: PatrickB Mar 28 2020, 12:27 PM

New springs in. (Rainy day here)
Before w/150 lb 8" EibachAttached Image



Notice that the sleeve extends above the top of the shock with the 8" spring. Not good practice as far as I'm concerned. On my car at least I wound say a 10" spring is the minimum. Not available anywhere I could find on this continent in that ID. Bought them online from England form Rallyuts.com. 160 lb 12" available just about any length and 10 lb increments.Attached Image

After Attached Image

Posted by: Andyrew Mar 28 2020, 04:18 PM

160 with a sway bar is a good combo for a street car. Love the build!

Posted by: PatrickB Mar 28 2020, 09:20 PM

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Mar 28 2020, 06:18 PM) *

160 with a sway bar is a good combo for a street car. Love the build!


Thanks, I like it too! Still a work in progress. Engine is old and high mileage. I think it's coming out this week to put the smaller turbo back on and seal a few things up, minor oil leaks. Timing belt isn't due mileage wise but is getting old. Water pump may or may not need replacing (heating issues getting worse over time). They are known to have issues with the impeller coming loose on the pump and since the timing belt will be off anyway...(you get the picture) may choose to put a muffler on while I'm at it. Waiting for a set of RE71's to show up....

Good thing I'm on self isolation! gives me some time! And our autocross season looks like it's delayed too


Posted by: PatrickB Mar 28 2020, 09:28 PM

Attached Image

This was with 150 lb springs and the back swaybar off..... hooked it back up for now to try again.

Posted by: PatrickB Mar 31 2020, 11:22 AM

Pulling apart to change timing belt, MAYBE a smaller turbo, PROBABLY add a muffler.
Biggest issue ging to a smaller turbo is hooking an air filter to it... need an elbow that matches a K14.Attached Image

Picture a little cloudy... dirty lens on the camera phone?

Posted by: Porschef Mar 31 2020, 12:31 PM

Sweet Probe! biggrin.gif

Would love to see a video, with sound beerchug.gif

Posted by: PatrickB Mar 31 2020, 02:45 PM

QUOTE(Porschef @ Mar 31 2020, 02:31 PM) *

Sweet Probe! biggrin.gif

Would love to see a video, with sound beerchug.gif


From a few pages back, initial start. My Kid wouldn't video for me at autocross, sorry!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BwvBVNTJbQ&feature=youtu.be

Posted by: PatrickB Apr 2 2020, 01:43 PM

Back out for a water pump, timing belt, and MAYBE a smaller turbo, haven't made up my mind yet.
Attached Image

Posted by: PatrickB Apr 12 2020, 05:57 PM

New water pump in, but they sent me the wrong timing belt kit. We're on hold for a day or two!
Attached Image

Old water pump looked fine once I had it out, but the new one was already here so.... what the heck!

Posted by: Andyrew Apr 13 2020, 01:28 AM

Boy that sure looks like the same water pump thats in the 1.8.



Have you thought about a heat blanket? You can get big kevlar ones on ebay for ~$30. It'll help a little bit with turbo spool, and just general under hood temps.

Posted by: barefoot Apr 13 2020, 07:04 AM

The CHEAP way to make your gearing taller is bigger wheels and tires. Get some 18s with 50- or 60-series tires on them and that should drop the revs everywhere. The speedo will be off at that point, though.

--DD
[/quote

18" wheels with 60 series tires will hit the rear A-arm. I just mounted 17 X 7" with 235/55 R17's (27.2" tire OD) and can just get a finger in both radially and at the inside wall of the tire. Interestingly my speedo checks right on against my GPS even though these tire OD's are larger than the OEM 165 X 15's.

Posted by: PatrickB Apr 13 2020, 07:46 AM

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Apr 13 2020, 03:28 AM) *

Boy that sure looks like the same water pump thats in the 1.8.



Have you thought about a heat blanket? You can get big kevlar ones on ebay for ~$30. It'll help a little bit with turbo spool, and just general under hood temps.

Probably is the same waterpump. Thought about wrapping the exhaust pipe and turbo...

That's a new Bosch pump I had on the shelf. The one that was in the motor felt okay and looked fine but I'm there anyway. The timing belt has to come out and the pulley off the oil pump drive to change it, so since I was there anyway... Tension pulley felt okay too but since I'm there I'm changing the belt and the tension pulley. This is an interference engine so if the belt breaks (which has happened to me a lot of years ago on this same engine) the valves and the pistons don't play nice together. Had to replace ALL the valves last time.

Posted by: PatrickB Apr 13 2020, 07:49 AM

QUOTE(barefoot @ Apr 13 2020, 09:04 AM) *

The CHEAP way to make your gearing taller is bigger wheels and tires. Get some 18s with 50- or 60-series tires on them and that should drop the revs everywhere. The speedo will be off at that point, though.

--DD
[/quote

18" wheels with 60 series tires will hit the rear A-arm. I just mounted 17 X 7" with 235/55 R17's (27.2" tire OD) and can just get a finger in both radially and at the inside wall of the tire. Interestingly my speedo checks right on against my GPS even though these tire OD's are larger than the OEM 165 X 15's.


Bigger diameter is not an option with the fenders that the previous owner put on the car. 225/55/16 is the tallest tire I can install.

The day may come someday that I cut off the existing fenders front and back and go to a more standard fender, but in the meantime this is what I have to work with.

Posted by: PatrickB Apr 13 2020, 07:55 AM

Apparently 1.9 AAZ engines were sold with 2 different timing belt setups with no obvious rhyme or reason as to which one you got. different years, different vehicles and different locations of production. The setup I have on 2 different engines is not the one they sent. I think I have the other one on a 3rd engine that's here. WTF.gif

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 7 2020, 02:20 PM

More issues.... autocrossed the car a few weeks ago with an upgraded T3 ( bigger compressor wheel and some machine work on the cold side housing). Got into a major blowby issue. Found a cracked head and low compression (for a 22.5 to one engine). 390 to 420 pounds across 4 cylinders. I knew the engine had huge miles on it when I put it in the car. Had a head rebuilt, honed, rings, bearings, and putting it back together. should have it fired up in time for more fun this weekend (I hope).
Current problem :
My wife was walking past the car in the garage and bumped into ? broke the mirror on the driver's door. NOT a stock mirror. Some kind of a universal mirror, and I can't find anything similar anywhere locally.
Anyone within an hour's drive (London/Windsor/Sarnia) got a pair of mirrors up for grabs? OR within 2 or 3 hours?

Posted by: PatrickB Aug 30 2020, 05:45 AM

Update:
car back together with new head (cracked), and rings. Ran for about a minute had had what sounded like a rod knock. Pulled the pan and checked everything, not rod issue. Turned out to be something I've never had on one of these engines before, a stuck injector. Roy's Diesel in London for the win! Still have too much heat though. Trying to figure out what heater core BillD used in the back of his, otherwise I'll have to give up and put a rad in the front.

Posted by: Mark Henry Aug 30 2020, 10:05 AM

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Jul 7 2020, 04:20 PM) *


My wife was walking past the car in the garage and bumped into ? broke the mirror on the driver's door. NOT a stock mirror. Some kind of a universal mirror, and I can't find anything similar anywhere locally.
Anyone within an hour's drive (London/Windsor/Sarnia) got a pair of mirrors up for grabs? OR within 2 or 3 hours?


They look like Vitaloni baby tornados, Post better pic's and they would say Vitaloni on the base, I have a pair used.

Posted by: PatrickB Aug 30 2020, 01:06 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Aug 30 2020, 12:05 PM) *

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Jul 7 2020, 04:20 PM) *


My wife was walking past the car in the garage and bumped into ? broke the mirror on the driver's door. NOT a stock mirror. Some kind of a universal mirror, and I can't find anything similar anywhere locally.
Anyone within an hour's drive (London/Windsor/Sarnia) got a pair of mirrors up for grabs? OR within 2 or 3 hours?


They look like Vitaloni baby tornados, Post better pic's and they would say Vitaloni on the base, I have a pair used.

No Vitaloni on the base..... found some aftermarket ones online I can live with.

Posted by: PatrickB Jun 6 2021, 03:50 AM

Latest update.... replaced the mishimoto fan on the rad with a larger SPAL fan, can now live with the rad placement for this year. May wind up with a larger custom rad and fan in the same location eventually. Sill wants to warm up cruising past 75. Will cruise all day without getting warm below that. Mark Henry has some transmissions from me and is rebuilding one with higher gears. Maybe the higher gearing will help too. Need to pull the engine back out at some point to fix an oil leak and maybe low compression. Re ringed it but don't have the compression I should. Running some miles on it to see if it gets better with break in. Put a muffler on it too, it wasn't terrible without but I like it better with. Can hear the radio now!Attached Image


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Grego in Sac Jul 15 2021, 11:39 AM

Very cool and have started thinking about doing a diesel swap, if you could do it again, what would you change?
Being in the states, California, I need to start looking for motors and then adapters. Would like to put a boxster 6 speed in it to keep the rpms down but that’s money that could go other places.
Do you have any pictures of the radiator setup and placement?
Thanks for being one of the few to forge ahead and break trail!

Posted by: Chris914n6 Jul 15 2021, 01:24 PM

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Jun 6 2021, 02:50 AM) *

Still wants to warm up cruising past 75. Will cruise all day without getting warm below that.

That's an airflow problem. The fact that it remains in temp range below 75 says the rad is right size. Fans only move more air below 25-30 mph, after that the cfm is strictly in the ducting. Outlet needs to be 20% larger than inlet to accommodate heat expansion.
There are also little details, like hoses under the car is good for ~5F cooling, and having airflow around the engine.

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 16 2021, 12:30 PM

QUOTE(Chris914n6 @ Jul 15 2021, 03:24 PM) *

QUOTE(PatrickB @ Jun 6 2021, 02:50 AM) *

Still wants to warm up cruising past 75. Will cruise all day without getting warm below that.

That's an airflow problem. The fact that it remains in temp range below 75 says the rad is right size. Fans only move more air below 25-30 mph, after that the cfm is strictly in the ducting. Outlet needs to be 20% larger than inlet to accommodate heat expansion.
There are also little details, like hoses under the car is good for ~5F cooling, and having airflow around the engine.

You're right about airflow, the rad is in the engine compartment. Wanted to try it that way to keep the frunk usable. I may eventually cut a vent in the fender like a Boxster but haven't gotten up the nerve to do it yet.

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 16 2021, 12:39 PM

Ran a couple tanks of fuel through it, pulled it out to check compression again. Was 320 to 360 lbs when I put it together. Spec is a minimum of 377. Local machine shop that did the head for me told me to put John Deere break in oil in it and run it. Didn't know break in oil still existed! Somewhere between 1000 and 1500 miles later and the readings are 420 to 460! Not what I had in the past but enough!

Also pulled it to find a big oil leak (probably 3 quarts in that 1500 miles all over the garage floor and outside), no luck yet. Heated up a couple times on the stand and still no leak. I'll keep looking. Attached Image Attached Image

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 16 2021, 02:37 PM

FINALLY got it to leak by running at sustained high (for a diesel) RPM. Looks like it's just the valve cover gasket! Now to find another one and put the car back together!

Posted by: JeffBowlsby Jul 16 2021, 07:00 PM

Been wondering what this beast sounds like? Can you post a sound clip?

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 17 2021, 04:09 AM

QUOTE(JeffBowlsby @ Jul 16 2021, 09:00 PM) *

Been wondering what this beast sounds like? Can you post a sound clip?


I'll give it a shot. I'll have to figure out how. Tried to take a video off the phone for here but it wouldn't work. Sound is bad inside the garage too.

Have to wait a few days for a valve cover gasket, surprized! will wait for next weekend to put it back together, Mark Henry got the gearset in the mail yesterday to put higher gears in it! He's hoping to have the trans done for next weekend.

Posted by: JeffBowlsby Jul 17 2021, 07:53 AM

Cool, whenever you can get it posted it would be great to hear.

Posted by: Mark Henry Jul 18 2021, 06:38 AM

QUOTE(JeffBowlsby @ Jul 16 2021, 09:00 PM) *

Been wondering what this beast sounds like? Can you post a sound clip?


It sounds like a VW Golf TDI, I thought it would be louder (IIRC it has no muffler) but the turbo does a good job muffling the sound.

Posted by: PatrickB Jul 18 2021, 02:25 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jul 18 2021, 08:38 AM) *

QUOTE(JeffBowlsby @ Jul 16 2021, 09:00 PM) *

Been wondering what this beast sounds like? Can you post a sound clip?


It sounds like a VW Golf TDI, I thought it would be louder (IIRC it has no muffler) but the turbo does a good job muffling the sound.

Thanks Mark, a little quieter now. I added a muffler, but you're right. I ran this engine for a lot of years with no muffler. When the timing is further advanced at the injection pump it's a little noisier.


Posted by: PatrickB Aug 23 2021, 02:22 PM

Back in one piece (mostly) with the geared up transmission. Got a throttle cable issue though. Custom cable worked fine for a couple of years but started to have pedal issues this year. Doesn't want to return to idle. Checked everything, thought maybe pedal was binding up, doesn't seem to be. Good springs on injection pump for return to idle. I think it's the cable...

Guy that made this one in London is on vacation for 3 weeks starting today. I just called. Anyone know where to get a custom length throttle cable? This week? In Canada? Preferable SW Ontario?

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