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Posted by: Chi-town Sep 12 2018, 04:41 PM

So I purchased a 74' Marathon Blue 914-4 that has been sitting for 12 years.

The bad:
It been converted to electric back in the late 90's.
It ran 25 Optima Yellow top batteries and had a range of about 40 miles and weighed 2 tons
It has random holes cut in the front and rear divider panels.
It has rear springs so stiff I'm actually afraid to try and remove them.
The tires are melted to the dollies it's sitting on.

The Good:
It doesn't have any rust in the rockers, jack plates, or Hell Hole
It came with brand new still in the box 320i calipers and rotors
It's 97% complete
I got it for a really good price

The Project:

I have removed all of the electric conversion and it's components. I have roughly 100lbs in copper cabling, 150lb electric motor, and a load of electronics that I have no idea what to do with.



I purchased a Subaru 3.6 H6 out of a newer Outback (256hp / 247ft/lbs). This engine has active valve timing on both cams and it will be run by a Link G4+ Fury standalone ecu to avoid the headaches of the factory Immobilizer / Can Bus systems.

I have two transmissions at the moment, a 5 speed STi with the optional factory LSD and 4:44 final drive and a 6 speed STI with the 3:90 final drive. Ideally I would like to run the 6 speed for durability and strength but fitment may be an issue (taller that 5 speed).

The mounting is what is going to be the fun part. I have access to one of Ian's cradles and a Rampage unit. My goal is to find the best in each and produce a new design for the 914 community.

Besides that I plan on leaving the patina on the outside, sprucing up the inside and driving the crap out of it.

(more pics coming shortly!)

Posted by: effutuo101 Sep 12 2018, 06:47 PM

Cool! Do it!
I am just down the 5 from you. Looking forward to seeing this run!

Posted by: colingreene Sep 12 2018, 07:44 PM

whats up dude.

Posted by: falcor75 Sep 12 2018, 09:54 PM

Get all the copper to a metal recycler and you'll get paid nicely.

Posted by: 914forme Sep 13 2018, 01:02 PM

Rampage unit? that is a new one, would love to see pictures.

Posted by: Chi-town Sep 13 2018, 03:08 PM

Originally an Electro Automotive "Voltsporsche" conversion, then he added upgraded electronics, then the batteries died and it just sat.

Posted by: amfab Sep 13 2018, 06:30 PM

two tons?! I wonder what it felt like to drive

Posted by: Chi-town Sep 13 2018, 06:55 PM

He said he could never get it to stop well that's why he purchased the 320i brakes for it.

Posted by: Chi-town Sep 23 2018, 08:36 PM

Finally got the electric motor and side shift trans out


Subaru STi RA 5 Speed with 4.44 final drive converted to FWD and added a torsen LSD


I ordered the conversion hub and rear plate from Bremer in Australia. The conversion hub pit perfect, the plate not so much. Anyone had issues with this? The alighnment dowels don't line up and the bolt holes are so tight the bolts barely fit through.

Posted by: r_towle Sep 23 2018, 08:57 PM

Let me know if you would like to sell the entire electric package, without the batteries.

Rich

Posted by: Chi-town Sep 23 2018, 09:08 PM

QUOTE(r_towle @ Sep 23 2018, 07:57 PM)

Posted by: effutuo101 Sep 23 2018, 09:21 PM

Watching this thread.
I also thought about the 6speed. But only could find a 5 speed when I was building.
Chat soon

Posted by: 76-914 Sep 24 2018, 11:39 AM

I'd like to see your build. I'm in Temecula but I have family in your area so I get over there often. PM me your address or phone number so I can visit your build one weekend. Kent

Posted by: Chi-town Sep 27 2018, 11:43 AM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Sep 24 2018, 10:39 AM)

I'd like to see your build. I'm in Temecula but I have family in your area so I get over there often. PM me your address or phone number so I can visit your build one weekend. Kent

Posted by: Aircooledfool Sep 27 2018, 03:27 PM

QUOTE(Chi-town @ Sep 27 2018, 12:43 PM)

QUOTE(76-914 @ Sep 24 2018, 10:39 AM)

I'd like to see your build. I'm in Temecula but I have family in your area so I get over there often. PM me your address or phone number so I can visit your build one weekend. Kent

Once I get it a little more sorted you're more than welcome to stop by.

I'm dropping the engine and trans in with the CW914 cradle to take it over to my fab guy to start the new cradle design in the next week.

The goal is to have the new cradle designed, tested, and in production by next month.

It will be solidly mounted to the body in front and rear and use the factory Subaru mounts with a removable trans mount bar.

Posted by: effutuo101 Sep 28 2018, 12:42 PM

I have one of the early CW cradles. There are a few thing I would like to do.
Looking forward to seeing your new design.

Posted by: Chi-town Sep 29 2018, 07:09 PM

Here's a good laugh for the day. Something wrong here..


Scored some Alfa Romeo GTV-6 aluminum front calipers for cheap this morning. They were kind nasty when I pulled them off but they cleaned up ok.

Posted by: JRust Sep 29 2018, 10:26 PM

Nice on the alpha calipers? Do they have the right bolt pattern to just bolt up?

Posted by: Chi-town Sep 29 2018, 10:35 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Sep 29 2018, 09:26 PM)

Posted by: 76-914 Sep 30 2018, 08:40 AM

Posted by: Chi-town Oct 1 2018, 03:34 PM

I'm putting down some part numbers and information I've gathered to help save searching and headaches for some.

Mounting

Renegade is the only commercially available cradle for the Subaru transplant at this time. They get $1000 for it and it uses the 901 trans so if you want to use the Subaru 5MT then you'll need some fab work done.

Myself and others are working on more options.

If you're into fabbing your own then check out Smallcar Specialties front mounting setup.

Coldwater914 (Ian) No Longer Exists even though his website is still functional.

If you're using stock mounts in your cradle design or have a CW914 cradle...


Flywheel Bolts (All of the EZ engines are Auto unless from Japan and then only a few MT). These fit all Subaru engines with a manual flywheel.
800610740 (x8)

Before you put that used trans together take a close look at where the release bearing slides, if it feels anything less that smooth you need one of https://www.pdmusa.com/OrderStorm-ecommerce-category-page/Subaru.

You can use which ever WRX clutch style fits your transmission. 2002-2005 for pull style, 2007+ for push style.

For an N/A application you shouldn't need more than a stage 1 organic and stay away from the metallic puck style clutches unless you are racing.

CV options
Subarugears makes a 108mm adapter cup to use a 911 CV which is handy if you're going 5 lug with 911 stubs and hub also.

Swayaway has custom axle shafts to go from the Subaru DOJ (inner joint) to a Porsche style outer joint.

ECU Options

For the EG33, EZ30D, and EJ series engines you can use the factory ECUs or standalone ECUs.

Keep in mind the EZ30D and EG33 only came in automatic and load calculation in the ECU looks at gear thresholds so you may not get may peak power as you probably won't get full ignition advance.

For that factory style wiring you'll want to talk to the experts https://www.iwireservices.com/, they can also supply most factory connectors also.

For the EZ30R and EZ36R the factory ECU is equipped with an immobilizer circuit. At this point no one can defeat it in the tuning world. This means unless you have the necessary modules and the keys from the donor car the factory ECU is useless.

The link Fury is to me the best option at this point. It can control all the features of the EZ series engines including E-Throttle, AVCS, and AVLS. It uses factory triggers for cam and crank signals and can do full sequential ignition and fueling.

There are other standalone ECUs available that will run these engines but Link has really good support and has base maps ready for them.

That's it for now, I'll keep adding as I assemble this thins.

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 1 2018, 06:54 PM

QUOTE(Chi-town @ Oct 1 2018, 02:34 PM)

Posted by: ThePaintedMan Oct 1 2018, 07:53 PM

You, sir, are a wealth of knowledge and a huge asset to this community. Thank you.

Posted by: Chi-town Oct 1 2018, 09:31 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 1 2018, 05:54 PM)

Exclude the "D" model from that observation.

Posted by: Chi-town Oct 1 2018, 09:45 PM

Oops dupe

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 2 2018, 09:47 AM

QUOTE(Chi-town @ Oct 1 2018, 08:31 PM)

QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 1 2018, 05:54 PM)

Exclude the "D" model from that observation.

Fixed

Thanks, I try and share what I have.

Posted by: 914forme Oct 2 2018, 07:42 PM

QUOTE(Chi-town @ Oct 1 2018, 05:34 PM)

Posted by: jimkelly Oct 6 2018, 07:34 AM

Attached image(s)

Posted by: Chi-town Oct 6 2018, 09:45 AM

I looked and looked for a white one but everything out here is blue, silver or red.

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 6 2018, 09:48 AM

Yep, Jimbo has done an excellent job collecting Suby builds. Many times I've pulled your signature up to find who posted what. I nominate Jim as our resident Subaru Librarian.

Posted by: Chi-town Oct 13 2018, 06:35 PM

Time for the first test fit so I bolted the engine and trans together, then bolted it to the CW914 cradle.


Then I bolted the whole mess into the car...

Then I found out the motor mounting plates on the cradle need to move 4" forward so I pulled it back out and removed the cradle.

At least now I know which direction I'm headed with the new design.

Posted by: Aircooledfool Oct 13 2018, 06:39 PM

One step forward, two back but looks like progress!

Posted by: Aircooledfool Oct 13 2018, 06:41 PM

Does it look like the 3.6 will fit without having to cut the back of the engine bay?

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 13 2018, 06:49 PM

QUOTE(Chi-town @ Oct 13 2018, 05:35 PM)

Posted by: Chi-town Oct 13 2018, 07:12 PM

Aircooled- when I move it forward it should fit with no cutting.

76-914 - the flanges line up but the engine needs to go forward. The 108mm CV's will do 25 degrees before there's an issue.

I am trying to avoid cutting the trunk as right now the starter and clutch fork hit.

I can't give a ground clearance measurement as my car is on dollys with 4 flats lol. I can say the oil pan is flush with the floor pan.

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 14 2018, 07:25 AM

Yea, I worried about that also but eventually capitulated. Now I'm glad that I did. The slave cylinder is easy to access for bleeding. The cutout for the breather was avoidable but I didn't want to mess around with the intake. Look at BIGKAT83's post's. He used a Subaru starter that was indexed differently to avoid the cutout of the starter area. The solenoid sat at the 9 o'clock position, IIRC.

Posted by: 914forme Oct 14 2018, 09:01 AM

Clocked starter PN is somewhere in my posts also ChrisH also used it with success.

If it is 4" forward that slave cylinder might not be an issue.

You can also get higher degree angle 930 joints if needed. I would just for piece of mind and chrome moly cages.

Moving the the combination 4" forward will be great for the 3.2-3.6 line of engines, would work for the -4 stuff also. But then you start working with more expensive parts on the back end. 108mm stuff is not cheap, but piece of mind is worth it in my book.

Posted by: Chi-town Oct 14 2018, 03:32 PM

76-914 - Doh! I didn't even think of the Bosch type starter, I think I have one somewhere, I'll have to dig it out.

914forme- it's gonna be somewhere between 2"-4" not quite sure yet. The 108mm CV are the only way to go with any kind of real torque. They are much cheaper in the off-road community than the Porsche ones and available with a lot of added features.

Posted by: rnellums Oct 14 2018, 08:26 PM

I have an EZ30 (with the larger cast manifold compared to the 36) in a CW cradle that fits with no cuts (excusing one notch for the clutch slave)

I did flip the throttle body using a tight radius mandrel bend though. Moving the drivetrain forward that far seems like it may create more headaches than it solves.

Posted by: 914-300Hemi Oct 14 2018, 08:45 PM

Posted by: Chi-town Oct 14 2018, 10:21 PM

There's a few reasons I'm going to move the motor forward:

The throttle body is literally up against the rear trunk wall, I can't even fit my finger in between.

The tail of the trans is too far rearward into the heat shield area. With it more forward I can lift the rear of the trans to get it back to the right angle without cutting the shield.

Clutch slave and release fork clearance without cutting.

There's about 6-8"" between the front cover AVCS protrusions and the rear bulkhead. I'm going to try it with the motor moved forward 2", check the CV angles and clearances. If I am still not happy and have any angle left in the CV's I'll move it 4".

The throttle body clearance issue is the least of my concerns as I only plan on running the stock intake manifold to get the car running and then I'll switch over to ITB's.

Posted by: Chris914n6 Oct 15 2018, 12:51 AM

I've got a 2011 WRX trans so some of this might not apply.

I think you can cut off the top of the fork as the other years don't have the helper spring.

I'm sure someone can find a slave with the same bore and fab a bracket. Nissan makes several that are low profile. I've got a pusher with it mounted on the bell so it's a different solution.

Rubber mallet to bend the heat shield out of the way, just in case you want it back later.

Stock CVs can handle 1.5" forward or back, as it's the size of the Renegade Hybrids blocks for SBC swaps. Make sure you calculate in full circle... including susp movement.

Flip the intake? I'm sure others would be interested in knowing.

PS. Diameter of the Suby flywheel someone?

Posted by: Chi-town Oct 15 2018, 09:05 AM

I did think about swapping to a push style clutch case but I've had too many fork and bearing failures throughout the years with them.

I'm redesigning the cradle anyway so the move forward isn't that hard in the scheme of things.

I'm ordered a set of ProAm high angle CV's so I can do a bit more than 1.5" off center. I will run a full suspension cycle to make sure they stay happy all the way through.

You would have to make a custom adjustable alternator mount to flip the intake manifold. I plan on switching to ITB's so it's not a big issue for me but if I'm going to produce cradles for a kit I want it to be as bolt in as possible.

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 15 2018, 09:11 AM

QUOTE(Chi-town @ Oct 14 2018, 09:21 PM)

Posted by: Chi-town Oct 15 2018, 09:55 AM

It's back out of the car at the moment while I make plates to move the mounts. I should have it back in sometime this week.

I'm running a EZ36R so the factory ECU is not an option for me due to the immobilizer issue. I have a Link standalone that I'll be using.

The bottom of a Subaru 5 speed should be almost level with the ground to keep the fluid where it should be and not stuck in the tail.

I did measure and there's no way to run a 6 speed unless you want to cut the trunk floor and make a tunnel for it.

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 15 2018, 10:03 AM

Yeah, I knew about the Link ECU but didn't know if there was an available map for the ITB set up. Or maybe that won't necessitate a map change? IIRC, I trimmed my heat shield a bit for my home made shift mechanism @ the rear of the transmission. Nothing major.

Posted by: Chi-town Oct 15 2018, 10:08 AM

Yeah it get's kinda tricky with the ITB's. You have to run a MAP load calculation to TPS only fuel mapping switch over point due to them hitting 0 inches of vacuum at only 20-30% throttle.

Posted by: flmont Oct 15 2018, 02:50 PM

I would love some info on those axle's ?? Thanks

Posted by: Chi-town Oct 15 2018, 08:25 PM

Well right now it's just a set of 4 joints sitting on my tool box not complete axles. Once I get the engine back in I'll take some measurements and get a shaft made for trial.

Posted by: flmont Oct 15 2018, 09:51 PM

Ah,..Ok Thanks

Posted by: effutuo101 Oct 16 2018, 06:52 AM

You should be able to flip the intake of you want. A lot of people do this. Not sure what years.

Posted by: Chi-town Oct 16 2018, 08:05 AM

Would need a custom adjustable alternator mount to make room for the throttle body.

Posted by: 914forme Oct 18 2018, 08:52 AM

And that is an issue

Posted by: Chi-town Oct 18 2018, 01:57 PM

Because I don't have access to a machinist or CNC equipment

Posted by: 914forme Oct 18 2018, 06:51 PM

You don't need it Before CNC people made some pretty intricate stuff. CNC allows you to take a drawing and build it to an exacting standard. For one off stuff, your faster just building the damn thing. It is when you need to make 2 or 2 million that CNC becomes your friend.

Some steel, some washers, a bit of welding and you can build a prototype, and bit more welding you can make it solid, and bit of grinding you can make it pretty.

Or lay it out, go to one of the 3D print bars, print out your rapid design prototypes and test fit it and get the design right. Print the final in PLA, and use it to build a sand cast, melt down some ingots and pore the thing, and from their finish it up, with a step drill. Once you have that done, find someone to print the thing in metal. SLA will do the same thing, works like a champ, and very little final cleanup needed.

There are people who will do the run if you can make the design. Some times it just costs you a

If you want to DIY it, I respect that, look for a place that is setup to rent the tools. We have a place in Cincinnati called the Manufactury, wood working, Machine Tools, and some heavy 3D stuff, I know they have a similar space in the Bay Area as I have seen them, while working in silicon valley. I fly in and break shit, rebuild, make it better and get the F out. I can't take the Bay Area Pirus gangs Should be something in your area, https://urbanworkshop.net/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8aq73p-R3gIVhJ-fCh03vQb2EAMYAiAAEgJubfD_BwE

Lots of ways to do this, you just seem to be hitting the brick wall over something that is trivial in the other scheme of this build. And don't feel bad we all run into that wall, just trying to pull you up.

Posted by: effutuo101 Oct 18 2018, 10:07 PM

QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 18 2018, 07:52 AM)

And that is an issue

Posted by: Chi-town Oct 18 2018, 10:19 PM

I would need it where the power steering pump used to be as I plan on installing A/C if I keep the car long term. It gets way too hot in the summer here in SoCal in a thin roof car stuck in traffic.

Posted by: effutuo101 Oct 18 2018, 10:31 PM

Gotcha. Well, 2x75 works for me!


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 19 2018, 09:12 PM

QUOTE(effutuo101 @ Oct 18 2018, 09:07 PM)

QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 18 2018, 07:52 AM)

And that is an issue

I have a guy..
He makes an alternator bracket that moves it to where the AC used to be. I will be ordering on in a couple of weeks. I will dig up his contact info.

Posted by: effutuo101 Oct 20 2018, 10:08 AM

Posted by: Costa05 Oct 20 2018, 12:22 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 19 2018, 10:12 PM)

QUOTE(effutuo101 @ Oct 18 2018, 09:07 PM)

QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 18 2018, 07:52 AM)

And that is an issue

I have a guy..
He makes an alternator bracket that moves it to where the AC used to be. I will be ordering on in a couple of weeks. I will dig up his contact info.

You won't regret the AC install. I've got the AC tools and can show you how to install a Vintage Air unit without any modifications or drilling of the lower dash pad.

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 21 2018, 07:47 PM

QUOTE(Costa05 @ Oct 20 2018, 11:22 AM)

QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 19 2018, 10:12 PM)

QUOTE(effutuo101 @ Oct 18 2018, 09:07 PM)

QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 18 2018, 07:52 AM)

And that is an issue

I have a guy..
He makes an alternator bracket that moves it to where the AC used to be. I will be ordering on in a couple of weeks. I will dig up his contact info.

You won't regret the AC install. I've got the AC tools and can show you how to install a Vintage Air unit without any modifications or drilling of the lower dash pad.

76-914, Do you have a thread on the Vintage Air install? Which evaporator did you go with?

Posted by: Costa05 Oct 21 2018, 08:32 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 21 2018, 08:47 PM)

QUOTE(Costa05 @ Oct 20 2018, 11:22 AM)

QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 19 2018, 10:12 PM)

QUOTE(effutuo101 @ Oct 18 2018, 09:07 PM)

QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 18 2018, 07:52 AM)

And that is an issue

I have a guy..
He makes an alternator bracket that moves it to where the AC used to be. I will be ordering on in a couple of weeks. I will dig up his contact info.

You won't regret the AC install. I've got the AC tools and can show you how to install a Vintage Air unit without any modifications or drilling of the lower dash pad.

76-914, Do you have a thread on the Vintage Air install? Which evaporator did you go with?

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=20535 here is the build thread. It should be towards the end. If it's not covered, pm me. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=201776 Excuse the Highjacking.

Posted by: Chi-town Oct 27 2018, 05:45 PM

No apology needed, I'll be installing A/C once she's up and running.

It's been a crazy month for me so not a lot of time to work on it but I finally got the motor back in with it moved 2" forward and it looks like this is going to be the magic spot. I have space for the release fork and slave cylinder, room between the firewall and throttle body, and the axle angle is completely within the range of the CVs I have.

You can see my CV angle finder (pat pending ) that runs from center to center of the cups.


Plenty of room up front


Plenty of room in the rear


Now I need to fab up a trans mount and I think it'll be time to get the assembly off to the fabricators to make a jig for production.

Posted by: Chris914n6 Oct 27 2018, 07:16 PM

QUOTE(Chi-town @ Oct 27 2018, 04:45 PM)

Posted by: Chi-town Oct 28 2018, 12:30 AM

QUOTE(Chris914n6 @ Oct 27 2018, 06:16 PM)

QUOTE(Chi-town @ Oct 27 2018, 04:45 PM)

Now I need to fab up a trans mount and I think it'll be time to get the assembly off to the fabricators to make a jig for production.

Oh look another kit by someone that doesn't have a driving car....

I'm just saying you should prove it all works as complete swap before trying to get money from the group. I need 2 hands to count the people that thought they had great engineering skills that actually sucked and flopped.

Posted by: bdstone914 Oct 28 2018, 06:47 AM

QUOTE(Chi-town @ Oct 27 2018, 11:30 PM)

QUOTE(Chris914n6 @ Oct 27 2018, 06:16 PM)

QUOTE(Chi-town @ Oct 27 2018, 04:45 PM)

Now I need to fab up a trans mount and I think it'll be time to get the assembly off to the fabricators to make a jig for production.

Oh look another kit by someone that doesn't have a driving car....

I'm just saying you should prove it all works as complete swap before trying to get money from the group. I need 2 hands to count the people that thought they had great engineering skills that actually sucked and flopped.

Slow your roll there Jr.

As you can see this is a Coldwater 914 cradle that I am "adjusting" to fit the Subaru new gen H6 engines. It's not rocket science to move an engine 2" and check CV angles.

As long as the CV angles check ok through the full suspension cycle there's nothing else really to test.

Posted by: Aircooledfool Oct 28 2018, 11:03 AM

Looks great to me! I’m first in line for a production cradle! Thanks for your work on this for the benefit of the group.

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 28 2018, 01:52 PM

QUOTE(Chi-town @ Oct 27 2018, 04:45 PM)

No apology needed, I'll be installing A/C once she's up and running.

It's been a crazy month for me so not a lot of time to work on it but I finally got the motor back in with it moved 2" forward and it looks like this is going to be the magic spot. I have space for the release fork and slave cylinder, room between the firewall and throttle body, and the axle angle is completely within the range of the CVs I have.

You can see my CV angle finder (pat pending ) that runs from center to center of the cups.


Plenty of room up front


Plenty of room in the rear


Now I need to fab up a trans mount and I think it'll be time to get the assembly off to the fabricators to make a jig for production.

Posted by: Chi-town Nov 9 2018, 09:37 AM

Well the engine is back out and the cradle is at the fabricators.

One of the main "adjustments" I'm making to the cradle is the engine mounting pads. They will be slotted to allow you to move the engine forward or rearward depending on your needs.

I should hopefully have a prototype in about a week to test fit

I also received my Canton cooling tanks so I can start the cooling system design finally.

I also swapped slave cylinders to the newer accumulator style without the accumulator to allow the line to be connected at the rear of it rather than the top for more clearance.

And I also found my spare Bosch style starter which fit perfectly also.

I test fit one axle shaft with the high angle 930 joints and it had a lot of angle to spare so one more thing checked off the list!

I'll try and get some pics up soon, haven't had much time to take them.

Posted by: jimkelly Nov 11 2018, 08:14 AM

someone mentioned this starter?
11-14 SUBARU IMPREZA WRX OEM EJ255 STARTER FXT 23300AA560
this one is on ebay and i've had it in my watch list for months.


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: flmont Nov 11 2018, 08:47 AM

Which engine are u using Chi-town,..EZ36,.. ??

Posted by: Chi-town Nov 11 2018, 01:23 PM

Yes it's an EZ36.

Jim, I used the Bosch style but that will work too.

Posted by: matthepcat Nov 13 2018, 06:28 PM

I would love to see this motor set up with ITB's!

Posted by: Chi-town Nov 13 2018, 08:27 PM

QUOTE(matthepcat @ Nov 13 2018, 04:28 PM)

Posted by: 914forme Nov 15 2018, 08:26 PM

I saw you where looking at a shifter setup in the classifieds, I can tell you can build it for less.

MR2 shifter
push pull cables in the proper length
http://zerodecibelmotorsports.com/products/bell-crank-mechanism-5spd/

You'll be good to go

Posted by: 914forme Nov 15 2018, 08:34 PM

Man the prices of these shifters has shot up, still cheaper to build the setup, but dang, I should have invested in MR2 shifters, I would be sitting at 200% increase over a two year period. might have been longer than that now that I think about it.

Posted by: mepstein Nov 15 2018, 09:01 PM

QUOTE(914forme @ Nov 15 2018, 09:34 PM)

Man the prices of these shifters has shot up, still cheaper to build the setup, but dang, I should have invested in MR2 shifters, I would be sitting at 200% increase over a two year period. might have been longer than that now that I think about it.

Posted by: flmont Nov 15 2018, 09:09 PM

Chi-town,...where did you get the axle measuring tool,..Thanks Frank

Posted by: 914forme Nov 15 2018, 09:32 PM

Frank most people end up making them. You cut the two axles you need to work with so they will not hit. Get a few of them stainless steel hose clamps with the screw ends. Put them around the axles two per axle piece should be fine. You take a piece of angle to bridge the gap, and slide the ends in place, with the suspension at its shortest location between the two CV cups, flanges, hubs, etc.... Make sure the circlips or what ever retaining device has not hit rock bottom so you want just a hair of play. Lock the clamps in place with the angle.

Then you should cycle the suspension up and down, maximum travel. This will be based on the travel that your shocks and springs will allow. So you need to know that. If they don't fall out or bind, you got a length that works for your build. Take you measurement. Repeat on the other side, they can be off

Posted by: Chi-town Nov 15 2018, 09:43 PM

Yeah I was being lazy and wanted to buy a complete unit.

Frank it's a piece of aluminum tubing with a piece of hose I can slide on it, about $5 from home Depot.

You measure from the center to center of each cup (the deepest part), subtract 1/4 inch for plunging CV's, for non plunging it gets little more complicated.

Measure both sides as they are almost never the same.

Posted by: Chi-town Nov 22 2018, 02:36 PM

Just an FYI to any other Suby swap guys, I just found 4 MR-2 shifters for around $30 each if anybody needs one to run cable shift.

Posted by: strawman Nov 24 2018, 12:48 AM

Great progress. I ran a 4.11 Suby 5-speed Phase 1 transaxle out of a ‘98 Forester initially but ended going to a Phase 2 trans with 3.90 gears. I wish I could find a higher geared one; I’m cruising at about 3200 rpms at 70 mph. It might seem like you’re spinning that sixer a bit too high with 4.44 gears. Good luck with your project!

Posted by: Tdskip Nov 24 2018, 06:54 AM

Subscribing - go Dylan go.

Posted by: Chi-town Nov 24 2018, 09:44 AM

Strawman-. The gearing is for canyon runs, no top end needed. The EZ36 will spin 7k rpm all day with no issues.

Tdskip- slowly but surely

Posted by: Chi-town Jan 15 2019, 04:39 PM

Been a while since I updated this so here goes..

Car is back on 4 wheels and rolling (without wheel dollies) for the first time in 14 years!

Front suspension is back together with Bilstien B6, Powerflex bushings in powder coated arms with Lemforder turbo tie rods and ball joints.

I found out the PO had installed Sway-Away 22mm hollow torsion bars to deal with the weight of all the batteries, nice bonus!

Still need to drill the hole for the front sway bar and get all the hardware plated to install it.

Painted the 74' Boge housings to match the Bilstein dust covers.


Also finally installed my Nardi steering wheel with solid hub.


I've got a long list of things I need to button up with the chassis then I'll get back to the swap list.

Posted by: AndySomogyi Jan 29 2019, 11:26 AM

How does the oil pan depth of the EZ30 compare with the Type4 engine?

I've got a Porsche 912 and looking at swapping in either a EJ series or an EZ series. With the EJ, I can easily buy or make a lower profile oil pan. But with the EZ, looks like the pan is part of the block.

Posted by: Chi-town Jan 29 2019, 03:15 PM

The upper section of the pan is structural to the block, the lower section is a shallow steel pan.

Compared to a stock EJ pan I would say they are about the same depth, maybe just a pinch shallower for the EZ

Posted by: Mr. M Jan 30 2019, 02:35 PM

This is a great build! The Subaru 3.6 is an awesome engine. Any new information on the production cradles?

Posted by: Chi-town Apr 25 2019, 10:42 AM

I'm working with a very slow fabricator at the moment, hoping to have one test fit sometime next month.

In the mean time I've just been collecting all the misc parts it needed from all the parts cars I've gone through. I think I finally have everything I need.

I did aquire a few goodies:
H&R front sway bar
Factory Rear sway bar
Blaupunkt CR-4090 radio
Some really clean tail lights
Stainless steel brake lines
Really nice seats
A bunch of nos weather stripping

Only work I've done is rebuilding the fog lights and swapping out old hardware for freshly plated ones

Posted by: Tdskip Apr 25 2019, 10:43 AM

Go go go man! Let’s get this thing running for the sunner

Posted by: nnowa07 Apr 30 2019, 02:21 PM

I had the pleasure of picking up a roller from Chi-town and he's top notch! When it comes to subarus and 914s he knows his stuff. I'm selfishly waiting for this build to continue on so I can copy every thing he does. Keep up the good work!

Posted by: Superhawk996 Apr 30 2019, 07:10 PM

Happy to see one rescued from EV land!

Posted by: nnowa07 Jun 23 2019, 04:54 PM

Any updates?

Posted by: Chi-town Jun 23 2019, 09:10 PM

I'm finally getting back to it after disassembling 13 parts cars and rebuilding one whole car.

I'll post some pics and misc later this week

Posted by: Chi-town Jun 26 2019, 10:42 PM

Pics will be up tomorrow but here's a short list of things that got done

Installed front sway bar and stainless brake lines with Endless CCRg pads

Removed the clutch tube, accelerator cable tube, heater control tubes and center brace out of the tunnel to open it up for coolant lines.

Mocked up the MR-2 shifter with a plate to bolt in the stock shifter location, need to work on extension.

Installed a Blaupunkt CR4090 for that vintage look, had to repair the firewall bracket.

Swapped out a bunch of hardware and latches for freshly plated ones

Swapping out the torsion style LSD for a Plated unit as soon as I get the friction plates WPC treated.

It's nice to get back to work on it

Posted by: djway Jun 26 2019, 11:34 PM

Good to see the lil gal gettin some attention

Posted by: nnowa07 Jun 28 2019, 12:35 PM

woohoo! Any news on that 3.6 cradle?

Posted by: 76-914 Jan 27 2020, 09:57 PM

Any progress updates?

Posted by: JRust Jan 27 2020, 10:19 PM

Yes 3.6 motor updates please

Posted by: Nacho Jan 29 2020, 09:05 PM

We want updates @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=22446

Posted by: Chi-town Jan 30 2020, 02:11 PM

Ok, I've had about a dozen other projects keep me off of the 914 but I have made a little progress.

The prototype for the cradle is done. The advantage over the old renegade, coldwater914 and small car hybrid mounts is that it has slotted engine mounting plates so you can move the engine forward or rearward depending on which engine or trans you are using. Special thanks to @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=20716 for helping me by doing all the hard work

I'm working on finishing the trans mount currently. Once I do I'll measure for shifter cables.

I also have a prototype shifter mount being made to make the MR-2 unit a bolt-on.

I have a loose design for -16/-20 coolant lines running through the tunnel rather than under the car and have removed all the internal brackets from tunnel to do so. I'm going to run the Celica GT-S radiator and condenser upfront at about a 20 degree angle with the exit similar to the -6 oil cooler setup.

That's about it right now.

Posted by: Tdskip Jan 30 2020, 02:13 PM

Thanks for the update, now get back to work on the build.

;-)