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Posted by: 76-914 Sep 24 2018, 11:06 AM

I've owned my lift for 2 years come November and along the way I've found a few things worth sharing. Feel free to add your own tips here especially if they involve safety.

1) I took almost a year to realize that I wouldn't be upright under my car while working like you see in the advertisements. Oh sure, I do some work upright but for the most part it is very uncomfortable and results in a stiff neck. So, raised appx 2' I use my creeper as it is much more comfortable to work while laying than upright.

2) It was another year before I learned that the best benefit of having this lift was to raise the car appx 2ft off the ground so I don't need to bend over for hours at a time resulting in a back ache.

3) Clear the area below before lowering your lift. Twice!

4) Clear the area above before raising.

5) Jack Extensions - My MaxJax comes with 4" lift extensions to give you a little more headroom however these can't be fitted beneath the 914 because it sits so low. I need to lift it a few inch's with the lift then lower it upon blocks. Only then is there enough room to insert the extensions. I can't use wood blocks under the longs to hold it higher because I have fiberglass valance covers. So I placed blocks beneath the wheels instead. This doesn't work worth a Continental Damn because of the 914's suspension. As I lowered the car it would walk to the side if the fronts touched ground 1st of it would walk forward if I'd left the Ebrake on or left it in gear. A couple of times I thought the tire would slip off one of the blocks as it was lowered. I cured that yesterday. HF had the 12"x18" furniture dollies on sale for $7 so I now have 4 of those to place beneath the wheels when using the extensions. Cheaper than the purpose made dollies that sell for about $40 each and rated at 1000 lbs. Much safer now.

6) Don't leave your car on the lift unnecessarily especially if you live in Earth Quake regions.

7) Use the lift's safety catch's or safety lock outs.

Posted by: Jamie Sep 24 2018, 12:13 PM

Don't forget to place an oil catch pan under a 914 engine if you store it up and have another car below. Last winter I did forget and then discovered that Rotella 20W-50 had been dripping on my Cayman for most of the "off" season. There was heavy oil in all the rear window seals, on the top and trunk hatch cover, and many scrubbing sessions with Dawn detergent and a toothbrush were required to get most of it out of the seam areas. I still see an occasional oil slick after driving in rain, and then more scrubbing.

Posted by: dcheek Sep 24 2018, 01:39 PM

I've had my 2 post lift for 4 years now. I would like to think that I know how to use it (safely) by now. I remember how unnerving it was to to lift my pride and joy off the ground for the first time. It is even a little creepy (pardon the pun) to walk under something suspended in the air that weighs over a ton. Time has made me complacent with the fact that I installed the lift myself and turn a wrench on all my cars.

Fast forward to this weekend. My '66 VW Westfalia Camper has been on the lift for 2 months now repairing brakes, tie rods, valve adjustment, along with painting/detailing all the parts I took off. I'm greasing the front end when I catch a glimpse of this:

Apparently the lift pad stuck to the crossmember and, when I brought the car down it shifted upon lifting. I assumed that everything lined up since I didn't move the car or the lift pads - WRONG !!!!

ALWAYS CHECK ALL 4 LIFT PADS EVERY TIME YOU LOWER THE CAR AND LIFT AGAIN !!!!

Dave

Posted by: AZBanks Sep 24 2018, 01:48 PM

Do you have pictures of #5?

QUOTE(76-914 @ Sep 24 2018, 10:06 AM)

I've owned my lift for 2 years come November and along the way I've found a few things worth sharing. Feel free to add your own tips here especially if they involve safety.

1) I took almost a year to realize that I wouldn't be upright under my car while working like you see in the advertisements. Oh sure, I do some work upright but for the most part it is very uncomfortable and results in a stiff neck. So, raised appx 2' I use my creeper as it is much more comfortable to work while laying than upright.

2) It was another year before I learned that the best benefit of having this lift was to raise the car appx 2ft off the ground so I don't need to bend over for hours at a time resulting in a back ache.

3) Clear the area below before lowering your lift. Twice!

4) Clear the area above before raising.

5) Jack Extensions - My MaxJax comes with 4" lift extensions to give you a little more headroom however these can't be fitted beneath the 914 because it sits so low. I need to lift it a few inch's with the lift then lower it upon blocks. Only then is there enough room to insert the extensions. I can't use wood blocks under the longs to hold it higher because I have fiberglass valance covers. So I placed blocks beneath the wheels instead. This doesn't work worth a Continental Damn because of the 914's suspension. As I lowered the car it would walk to the side if the fronts touched ground 1st of it would walk forward if I'd left the Ebrake on or left it in gear. A couple of times I thought the tire would slip off one of the blocks as it was lowered. I cured that yesterday. HF had the 12"x18" furniture dollies on sale for $7 so I now have 4 of those to place beneath the wheels when using the extensions. Cheaper than the purpose made dollies that sell for about $40 each and rated at 1000 lbs. Much safer now.

6) Don't leave your car on the lift unnecessarily especially if you live in Earth Quake regions.

7) Use the lift's safety catch's or safety lock outs.

Posted by: cuddy_k Sep 24 2018, 02:01 PM

This is a great idea for a thread. Thanks for starting it!

I totally agree that the ideal height range is 18" - 2 feet. Working overhead seems like it would be easier, but it isn't.

Tips I'd add...

– The first time you lift your car, you'll feel stupid for not buying one sooner.

– Before lifting, raise the pads to an inch or so before they make contact with the car, and adjust as needed. It's amazing how things don't line up the way you think they will.

– Where possible, always use jackstands as a backup in case the lfit fails. I like to put them under the engine bar and a-arms. (AND REMEMBER TO REMOVE THEM WHEN LOWERING

– Only use approved lifting points.

– Put all tools you think you may need on the ground near where you're working. And still, you'll find yourself having to get up because you forgot something.

– Always keep your cell phone handy, in case you need help under the car.

– Most importantly, be safe!

Posted by: mepstein Sep 24 2018, 02:42 PM

Raise the lift 6” and bounce both ends of the car before you raise it higher

The weight distribution of the car can shift when you add or remove parts


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Posted by: KELTY360 Sep 24 2018, 04:58 PM

QUOTE(cuddy_k @ Sep 24 2018, 01:01 PM)

This is a great idea for a thread. Thanks for starting it!

I totally agree that the ideal height range is 18" - 2 feet. Working overhead seems like it would be easier, but it isn't.

Tips I'd add...

– The first time you lift your car, you'll feel stupid for not buying one sooner.

– Before lifting, raise the pads to an inch or so before they make contact with the car, and adjust as needed. It's amazing how things don't line up the way you think they will.

– Where possible, always use jackstands as a backup in case the lfit fails. I like to put them under the engine bar and a-arms. (AND REMEMBER TO REMOVE THEM WHEN LOWERING

– Only use approved lifting points.

– Put all tools you think you may need on the ground near where you're working. And still, you'll find yourself having to get up because you forgot something.

– Always keep your cell phone handy, in case you need help under the car.

– Most importantly, be safe!

Posted by: bulitt Sep 25 2018, 05:12 AM

Use the recommended fluid in you lift. Most will work but some will eat your seals...

Posted by: Mark Henry Sep 25 2018, 06:09 AM

I use hockey pucks, I center the pad in the middle of the donut then center a hockey puck on the pad. Absolutely no damage to the jack points from the lift when I use pucks.

I still get use of my jack stands if storing for a long time, I lift the car, the lower it on the stands (with hockey pucks) then I can add all my extensions to get the car as high as I can o the lift.

Posted by: mepstein Sep 25 2018, 06:14 AM

I use a lift so I don’t have to use a creeper. I hate working on my back and having rust fall into my face. It’s also faster to walk over to grab a tool than to get up off the floor and then back down. But to each his own.

Posted by: Mark Henry Sep 25 2018, 06:28 AM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 25 2018, 08:14 AM)

Posted by: JeffBowlsby Oct 20 2018, 09:12 AM

Just saw this 2 car lift. Didn't know they existed. Space for 2 914s if you have the headroom!

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/fod/d/double-wide-car-lift-brand/6712631167.html






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Posted by: 90quattrocoupe Oct 20 2018, 09:32 AM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Sep 25 2018, 05:28 AM)

I use a lift because I'm too fuching old to be laying on cold concrete.

Posted by: jmitro Oct 20 2018, 01:24 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Sep 25 2018, 07:09 AM)

Posted by: michael7810 Oct 20 2018, 05:40 PM

I have a mid rise and didn’t realize how great it was until I got this

With a flat creeper I could only raise the car 12” or it was too high to work on. Now I can raise it 30” and comfortably work.

Posted by: rgolia Oct 21 2018, 03:30 AM

QUOTE(michael7810 @ Oct 20 2018, 07:40 PM)

I have a mid rise and didn’t realize how great it was until I got this

With a flat creeper I could only raise the car 12” or it was too high to work on. Now I can raise it 30” and comfortably work.

Posted by: carr914 Oct 21 2018, 04:55 AM

my Tip, know where any blunt points are on the lift and where your head will hit them!

any cut on your head bleeds like crazy!

Posted by: Mark Henry Oct 21 2018, 09:36 AM

QUOTE(carr914 @ Oct 21 2018, 06:55 AM)