Printable Version of Topic
Click here to view this topic in its original format
914World.com _ 914World Garage _ getting real old
Posted by: bd1308 Jun 19 2005, 12:33 PM
so anyway i'm bolting the exhaust up and i notice that the studs are broken on one cylinder....so i need to replace the studs.....
dad got the MAPP torch out ( woah) and i told him too hot.
went and bought a propane torch, heated the head up till the flame went out (gust of air) so around 5 minutes for both studs...they wont budge
is it kosher to buy a (x)MM drill bit, chop off the stud to level and drill and tap out to (x+1)mm?
Posted by: bd1308 Jun 19 2005, 12:34 PM
i really need your help here......
Posted by: ! Jun 19 2005, 12:37 PM
Best to get it out with heat....use the MAPP gas, it won't melt the stud.....
How are you try to bust them loose?
I use a pair of vice grips, oven mitt for my hand and put turning pressure on the stud while heating it up.....it's the combination of heat AND torque that breaks them loose.
Drilling is the LAST resort.
Posted by: bd1308 Jun 19 2005, 12:57 PM
white flame, not blue right???
Posted by: Dr. Roger Jun 19 2005, 01:26 PM
I just lived through removing a twisted off a crankshaft harmonic balancer bolt.
It was a grade 5 hardened bolt and snapped off with about 125lbs of torque. Yes, it was my own damn fault..... 
I used one of these and i'm sold on 'em. 
I soaked the bolt for a day before extraction.
Go slow, be patient, and follow the instructions.
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/ShopCart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_CAT332_pg9.htm
Best of luck.
Posted by: Dr. Roger Jun 19 2005, 01:29 PM
Oh, and you are heating the surrounding aluminum and not the stud, right?
Doesn't heating the stud make it tighter ?
Posted by: bd1308 Jun 19 2005, 02:09 PM
yup....i'm heating the surround. You're correct....heating the steel stud will make things tighter instead of the desired effect....
Posted by: Aaron Cox Jun 19 2005, 02:20 PM
done yet?
vice grips/oven mit/torch
do it. use the force.
dont want to see you posting until youve completed your task
AA
Posted by: SirAndy Jun 19 2005, 03:09 PM
| QUOTE (bd1308 @ Jun 19 2005, 01:09 PM) |
| yup....i'm heating the surround. You're correct....heating the steel stud will make things tighter instead of the desired effect.... |
i'm sure you already know that but sometimes it's easier to brake them lose if you try to tighten it just a bit first, then try to back it out ...
Andy
Posted by: bd1308 Jun 19 2005, 08:20 PM
i'm stressed. tried MAPP, propane, oven mitt, no oven mitt (oouch), doing it sideways straight up back ward forward, nothing......
will try tomorrow again.
Posted by: redshift Jun 19 2005, 08:40 PM
Stay with it Britt! You aren't that far from done.... for a minute.
M
Posted by: RAR Jun 19 2005, 08:45 PM
Another thread just suggested melting paraffin into the threads after heating. Brilliant solution if it works, as it appears it did.
Posted by: Aaron Cox Jun 19 2005, 10:58 PM
| QUOTE (RAR @ Jun 19 2005, 07:45 PM) |
| Another thread just suggested melting paraffin into the threads after heating. Brilliant solution if it works, as it appears it did. |
how can wax defy gravity?
if im not mistaken...he is upside down under a car...
Posted by: redshift Jun 19 2005, 11:05 PM
surface tension.. it works..
Slight void between two parts sucks.
M
Posted by: bd1308 Jun 20 2005, 06:25 AM
| QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Jun 19 2005, 10:58 PM) | ||
how can wax defy gravity? if im not mistaken...he is upside down under a car... |
was thinking the exact same thing. i am upside down and I'd be REALLY pissed if i got hot wax all over my face. but yeah i'm confused on this point too.
I could make alot of money by going to bars and showing everybody the gravity-defying wax trick.
Posted by: Jakester Jun 20 2005, 09:56 AM
It's called capillary action - it's the same reason liquid can travel up a rag soaking in it (like a wick in an oil lamp, for instance).
Here is an http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/surten2.html#c5
As far as wax on your face - you're on your own there 
Posted by: SLITS Jun 20 2005, 10:06 AM
Sometimes you can take a center punch and give the stud a good smack to jar it. If you could obtain a syringe and you were fast, you could defy gravity and shoot the wax on the stud base.
Hot wax.....it melts with hot water (dutch boiler).
Posted by: ArtechnikA Jun 20 2005, 11:52 AM
The Usual Sources make metric left-hand drills and stud extractors that do not just wedge the stud in tighter. sometimes drilling out the center of the stud relieves enough tension that it will simply screw itself out along with the drill bit.
Sears sells a set of screw extractors and the left-hand extractors - forget what cute name they call them buy (Bolt-Out maybe...) because i always just call them "Screw-Ups" - since that's what they're designed to fix...
Sears doesn't make them, they just repackage them under the Craftsman label - the OEM name is still on them - but i don't have one here to examine...
Posted by: Jakester Jun 20 2005, 12:02 PM
| QUOTE (ArtechnikA @ Jun 20 2005, 09:52 AM) |
| The Usual Sources make metric left-hand drills and stud extractors that do not just wedge the stud in tighter. sometimes drilling out the center of the stud relieves enough tension that it will simply screw itself out along with the drill bit. Sears sells a set of screw extractors and the left-hand extractors - forget what cute name they call them buy (Bolt-Out maybe...) because i always just call them "Screw-Ups" - since that's what they're designed to fix... Sears doesn't make them, they just repackage them under the Craftsman label - the OEM name is still on them - but i don't have one here to examine... |
I think they are called "easy outs". I've used them many times with mixed success. They seem to break about 50% of the the time, especially when you are using the smaller ones. There are great when they work but a pain when they break (since they're hardened and will foil even the best drill bits)
Posted by: ClayPerrine Jun 20 2005, 12:25 PM
Are there any threads left on the stud? If so, put a nut on the stud, and using a ox-acetelyne torch, weld the nut to the stud. Wait for it to cool, and then use a socket to unscrew the stud.
This can be done even if the stud is stripped. All you have to do is to get the nut over the stud and weld it on.
This has always worked for me.
Now fixing the head when the stud pulls the threads out, that is another story.
HELICOILS SUCK!!!!
Posted by: ArtechnikA Jun 20 2005, 01:23 PM
| QUOTE (Jakester @ Jun 20 2005, 02:02 PM) |
| I think they are called "easy outs" |
no. they're not.
"Easy-Outs" aren't.
anything you wedge into the stud tend to make it stick better...
check this out...
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00952156000
Attached image(s)
Posted by: bd1308 Jun 20 2005, 01:57 PM
looks good. okay here's what i need help with:\
1)getting my car to start (again)
2)getting the studs out.
Posted by: David_S Jun 20 2005, 02:15 PM
| QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Jun 20 2005, 01:25 PM) |
| Are there any threads left on the stud? If so, put a nut on the stud, and using a ox-acetelyne torch, weld the nut to the stud. Wait for it to cool, and then use a socket to unscrew the stud. This can be done even if the stud is stripped. All you have to do is to get the nut over the stud and weld it on. |
I have to agree with what Clay suggested .....I have done it many times! Once the nut is "welded" on, spray some kind of penetrating oil on the stud itself to cool it back off and try to keep most of the heat in the head. Also lightly tap on the end of the stud while it cools for about a minute, and then slowly twist the stud back and forth! Hopefully, it will come right out .
Posted by: bd1308 Jun 20 2005, 02:25 PM
wow. well i'll do it and prove the vw guy wrong. then i'll laugh. well first, i'll take his 2.0 engine.
Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)