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Posted by: MikeM Dec 12 2018, 11:07 AM

Hi all...For you 2056 guys out there...how much tuning is involved after building the 2.0 liter to 2056 and keeping D-Jet? Keeping stock cam as well. Does the MPS need calibration and adjustment? Maybe just stick to 94mm?
Thanks,
Mike

Posted by: BeatNavy Dec 12 2018, 11:26 AM

The MPS should be tuned after converting to 2056. There are several people here who can get it close to 2056 specs for you using and an inductance meter, but you need wideband O2 and/or exhaust gas analyzer and dyno to get it really dialed in for your specific engine.

That's pretty much the setup I'm running now. I like it, and I enjoyed the "process" of playing with it and learning. But then I do have a wideband, an inductance meter, the MPS tuning tools/kit from Tangerine, and a couple of MPS's to compare and play with.

Posted by: Mblizzard Dec 12 2018, 12:15 PM

I have done this and agree with Rob on the process. But adjusting the stock system is a pain in the ass.

A couple of suggestions.

Change the cam. Even if you just change to the updated FI compatible cam you will be happier and get more out of your 2056 build.

Be sure you check you deck height and adjust shims to get the compression you want. http://www.cbperformance.com/v/enginecalc.html I did a build and had way less compression than I wanted due to incorrect deck height.

Also confirm your valve train geometry as you may need to make adjustments.

Consider using a modern FI system like Micro Squirt. Full disclosure it is a pain as well but you can actually do a lot more tuning wise with it and the relative simplicity of the system is way better than stock.

Next get the best P/Cs you can afford. AA makes some perfectly fine P/Cs but if you can go with Male or better yet Nickies from the Type 4 store you will not regret spending the money.

Posted by: BeatNavy Dec 12 2018, 12:21 PM

If you're willing to split the case and go that far into the rabbit hole. I'm actually doing that now - building a 2056 with FI-compatible cam to replace my current one that still has the stock cam.

If you don't want to go that far, the simple 96 mm P&C upgrade is fun too.

Posted by: MikeM Dec 12 2018, 12:29 PM

I'm not interested in splitting the case unless absolutely necessary. I'm worried about a bunch of tweeking to the DJET. The car is an LE so I don't want to change too much. It's down on power because it has BUS pistons and cylinders. Other than that it runs perfectly. Maybe sticking to 94mm is the best option. I have another car with a carbed 2.4 so not looking for tons of power.
Mike

Posted by: BeatNavy Dec 12 2018, 12:35 PM

There you go. I think you have your answer, and it makes sense. Originality is sometimes (or often) the way to go.

Posted by: MikeM Dec 12 2018, 12:37 PM

Thanks for your thoughts.

Posted by: mgphoto Dec 12 2018, 03:36 PM

Even if the engine is rebuilt to factory specs, little chance the MPS is still tuned for the correct mix.
A factory spec rebuilt should be fine, but going up in displacement changes requires an adjustment.
Tangerine Racing has an MPS kit that makes the unit adjustable. That in conjunction with an air fuel ratio meter would be the best solution.

Posted by: TheCabinetmaker Dec 12 2018, 04:11 PM

They are all adjustable. The tangerine kit just makes it a little easier.

Posted by: JamesM Dec 12 2018, 10:23 PM

My normal response would be "ditch the d-jet and swap the cam to something greater than d-jet could handle" but given your clarification of what you are working with here, I am thinking just go with euro flat top 94's and be done with it. Should give you a minor bump in power over stock without needing to futz with the d-jet at all.

Posted by: saigon71 Dec 13 2018, 07:45 AM

I built a D-Jet 2056 a few years back. All I did was mail my MPS to Jeff Bowlsby for 2056 calibration and put it on.

I haven't done any tuning since and the car runs great.