Printable Version of Topic
Click here to view this topic in its original format
914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Steering Rack
Posted by: bbrock Dec 18 2018, 11:55 AM
My steering rack is out (along with all the other parts of the car) and I'm getting ready to spruce it up and install turbo tie rod ends. Is it worth tearing it apart for a thorough cleaning, inspection, and refurbishing while I'm at it? My initial inspection shows it turns freely and smoothly through the whole range by hand. The housing cover looks like it was leaking grease so at a minimum, that needs replaced. The rack has about 100K miles of actual use and 35 years of just sitting. I'm not opposed to opening cans of worms but I have an abundance of cans and want to just open the ones worth opening.
And before somebody says it, I know that 914rubber offers a reasonably priced rebuild service for these, but this it a big, complete resto project on a budget. It only works if I supply all the labor I can. I've read through all the threads I could find on the subject and it doesn't look any harder than other stuff I've tackled.
Opinions?
Posted by: mb911 Dec 18 2018, 02:23 PM
My steering rack is out (along with all the other parts of the car) and I'm getting ready to spruce it up and install turbo tie rod ends. Is it worth tearing it apart for a thorough cleaning, inspection, and refurbishing while I'm at it? My initial inspection shows it turns freely and smoothly through the whole range by hand. The housing cover looks like it was leaking grease so at a minimum, that needs replaced. The rack has about 100K miles of actual use and 35 years of just sitting. I'm not opposed to opening cans of worms but I have an abundance of cans and want to just open the ones worth opening.
And before somebody says it, I know that 914rubber offers a reasonably priced rebuild service for these, but this it a big, complete resto project on a budget. It only works if I supply all the labor I can. I've read through all the threads I could find on the subject and it doesn't look any harder than other stuff I've tackled.
Opinions?
It's actually very easy to do. I will tell you my quick experience
I researched and learned that there are 3 versions of the rack. I took mine apart to clean up and also because it was rough through the range. I then replaced the bearings after buying the wrong bearing (actually the right bearing for the other 2 versions) and regreased and still didn't like how it felt rough. Then decided to sell it to 914 rubber for a core and bought a ZF rack out of a 911 and had tru-6 restore it in swap for some exhaust work. Had I not swapped work I would have done the second rack myself. It's a 15 minute rebuild.. I have a new bearing I could send you (FAG brand) if you decide to do it.
Posted by: Olympic 914 Dec 18 2018, 03:06 PM
worth doing and not that hard.
Bearing numbers here.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=273545&hl=
Posted by: bbrock Dec 18 2018, 04:59 PM
SOLD. I'm going in. So 2 bearings and a seal to replace. Anything else that should be replaced as a matter of routine while I'm in there? Anyone know where to get the housing gasket? Looks like it is NLA. Also, do people who do this check and adjust the end play or do they just assume it's okay if nothing other than bearings are replaced? I'm wondering because it looks like the thickness of the gasket figures into the end play equation.
Mark, I may take you up on that bearing. How do I know which I need? My car is a 73 like Tom's so I'm guessing the same bearing (FAG 16002)? Anyone have a recommendation on where to buy bearings and seals?
Thanks for the help guys. Another can of worms to open 
Posted by: mb911 Dec 18 2018, 05:18 PM
SOLD. I'm going in. So 2 bearings and a seal to replace. Anything else that should be replaced as a matter of routine while I'm in there? Anyone know where to get the housing gasket? Looks like it is NLA. Also, do people who do this check and adjust the end play or do they just assume it's okay if nothing other than bearings are replaced? I'm wondering because it looks like the thickness of the gasket figures into the end play equation.
Mark, I may take you up on that bearing. How do I know which I need? My car is a 73 like Tom's so I'm guessing the same bearing (FAG 16002)? Anyone have a recommendation on where to buy bearings and seals?
Thanks for the help guys. Another can of worms to open
I have the 16002.. Pm me your address.. And it's Ben
Posted by: bbrock Dec 18 2018, 05:23 PM
SOLD. I'm going in. So 2 bearings and a seal to replace. Anything else that should be replaced as a matter of routine while I'm in there? Anyone know where to get the housing gasket? Looks like it is NLA. Also, do people who do this check and adjust the end play or do they just assume it's okay if nothing other than bearings are replaced? I'm wondering because it looks like the thickness of the gasket figures into the end play equation.
Mark, I may take you up on that bearing. How do I know which I need? My car is a 73 like Tom's so I'm guessing the same bearing (FAG 16002)? Anyone have a recommendation on where to buy bearings and seals?
Thanks for the help guys. Another can of worms to open
I have the 16002.. Pm me your address.. And it's Ben
Oh sorry Ben, I spent too much time on here today and got in my head that mepstein made that post.
Posted by: Olympic 914 Dec 18 2018, 05:36 PM
SOLD. I'm going in. So 2 bearings and a seal to replace. Anything else that should be replaced as a matter of routine while I'm in there? Anyone know where to get the housing gasket? Looks like it is NLA. Also, do people who do this check and adjust the end play or do they just assume it's okay if nothing other than bearings are replaced? I'm wondering because it looks like the thickness of the gasket figures into the end play equation.
Mark, I may take you up on that bearing. How do I know which I need? My car is a 73 like Tom's so I'm guessing the same bearing (FAG 16002)? Anyone have a recommendation on where to buy bearings and seals?
Thanks for the help guys. Another can of worms to open
I have the 16002.. Pm me your address.. And it's Ben
I'm Tom, AND I have a '73
Posted by: bbrock Dec 18 2018, 05:41 PM
SOLD. I'm going in. So 2 bearings and a seal to replace. Anything else that should be replaced as a matter of routine while I'm in there? Anyone know where to get the housing gasket? Looks like it is NLA. Also, do people who do this check and adjust the end play or do they just assume it's okay if nothing other than bearings are replaced? I'm wondering because it looks like the thickness of the gasket figures into the end play equation.
Mark, I may take you up on that bearing. How do I know which I need? My car is a 73 like Tom's so I'm guessing the same bearing (FAG 16002)? Anyone have a recommendation on where to buy bearings and seals?
Thanks for the help guys. Another can of worms to open
I have the 16002.. Pm me your address.. And it's Ben
I'm Tom, AND I have a '73
At least I got one of you right!
Posted by: Rob-O Dec 18 2018, 10:11 PM
Word of advice, keep track of the shims. They’re under the small cover in the middle of the rack, bottom. They’re job is to apply a set pressure to the rack gear.
Posted by: Matty900 Dec 18 2018, 10:33 PM
Sent you an email with some help
Posted by: bbrock Dec 20 2018, 03:51 PM
Well this is interesting... I know from watching Ian Karr's video that the turbo tie rod kit doesn't come with spring retainers to secure the bellow ends, that the outer bellows are a different diameter than original stock, and he suggests using zip ties instead. I thought I'd look up the part number for the turbo retainers and see if they were still available. The PET lists two retainer part numbers for the 911 SC (same as for the 914) but none for the turbo. Apparently, Porsche decided the turbo didn't need no stinking springs.
Posted by: 914forme Dec 20 2018, 09:32 PM
If your adding turbo tie rods you will need a thin 32MM wrench for the installation. A BMW fan wrench works great for the proper size and it is thin, also has superb leverage compared to the 32mm cone wrenches used for bicycle repair.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071VB2QS5/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B071VB2QS5&pd_rd_w=Nh9bf&pf_rd_p=21517efd-b385-405b-a405-9a37af61b5b4&pd_rd_wg=Fzzmh&pf_rd_r=VB3151RQA5D9KG35HN1T&pd_rd_r=ce2bb49c-04d0-11e9-bb5a-dff16524fffe
Posted by: bbrock Dec 20 2018, 09:37 PM
If your adding turbo tie rods you will need a thin 32MM wrench for the installation. A BMW fan wrench works great for the proper size and it is thin, also has superb leverage compared to the 32mm cone wrenches used for bicycle repair.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071VB2QS5/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B071VB2QS5&pd_rd_w=Nh9bf&pf_rd_p=21517efd-b385-405b-a405-9a37af61b5b4&pd_rd_wg=Fzzmh&pf_rd_r=VB3151RQA5D9KG35HN1T&pd_rd_r=ce2bb49c-04d0-11e9-bb5a-dff16524fffe
Thanks for the tip! I was planning to visit the local bike shop for the wrench but this looks better. Probably don't want to put the nice new tie rods on the same way I took the old ones off - with a pipe wrench
Posted by: mepstein Dec 21 2018, 08:15 AM
If your adding turbo tie rods you will need a thin 32MM wrench for the installation. A BMW fan wrench works great for the proper size and it is thin, also has superb leverage compared to the 32mm cone wrenches used for bicycle repair.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071VB2QS5/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B071VB2QS5&pd_rd_w=Nh9bf&pf_rd_p=21517efd-b385-405b-a405-9a37af61b5b4&pd_rd_wg=Fzzmh&pf_rd_r=VB3151RQA5D9KG35HN1T&pd_rd_r=ce2bb49c-04d0-11e9-bb5a-dff16524fffe
Thanks for the tip! I was planning to visit the local bike shop for the wrench but this looks better. Probably don't want to put the nice new tie rods on the same way I took the old ones off - with a pipe wrench
A pipe wrench is the proper tool to remove them so you don’t damage your good wrench. Same with ball joint nut and top strut nut.
Posted by: bbrock Dec 21 2018, 10:19 AM
A pipe wrench is the proper tool to remove them so you don’t damage your good wrench. Same with ball joint nut and top strut nut.
Done both of those too. I'm guessing I could have gotten the old tie rods off by just cocking the joints 90 degrees and using them as their own wrench. I ordered a BMW wrench on ebay. Found a double end version for a couple bucks cheaper. I dodn't see a BMW in my future so figured I'd be more likely to find a use for the 36mm end than whatever that special bar is that comes with the fan clutch setup.
Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)