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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ LED Foglight Project

Posted by: Spoke Apr 13 2019, 08:45 AM

The design of an early foglight LED board has begun. mepstein sent me a couple of foglight fixtures to use to design the board. 2 main issues are fitment and heat dissipation. If things work out ok the design should be able to be re-laid out for the later square foglight.

The board will have 8 Cree XP-G3 high power surface mount LEDs with 350ma current each. These will burn about 1W of power with a total power dissipation expected to be less than 10W. Hopefully these will be almost as bright as a headlight.

Each LED will have its own focusing lens. The lenses are Carclo 10192 elliptical 20mm lenses. The light pattern for the 10192 lens is shown below.

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This is the spectral dispersion for the lens.

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Posted by: Spoke Apr 13 2019, 08:51 AM

The LEDs will be connected in series and driven by a Linear Technologies LT3755 switching converter. It will be the same circuit as applied to the Porsche 356 running lights previously designed.

That running light had 19 LEDs running 275ma each. This one burned about 16W total. The switching converter was placed on a separate PCB as a large heatsink was mounted behind the LEDs.

The 914 foglight fixture is much smaller so only 8 LEDs will be mounted with the switching converter mounted on the backside of a single PCB.


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Posted by: Spoke Apr 13 2019, 08:58 AM

This is what the board looks like right now. It may likely change as the layout proceeds. The heatsink is 2 x 4 inches and will back the LEDs. The rest of the space will be used on the back will be used by the switching converter.

The switching converter could be mounted on the front side but I'm not sure if it would look ok since you'd be able to see the hardware. It would make the assembly much easier to have everything on one side.




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Posted by: mepstein Apr 13 2019, 12:16 PM

I don't understand any of this but it sure looks great. Can't wait to go full LED. Maybe the hood lights next?

I think the Cibie's are used on many other marque's.


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Posted by: StratPlayer Apr 13 2019, 01:34 PM

Will you be making these for the rectangle style fog lights?

Posted by: Luke M Apr 13 2019, 02:11 PM

I'd be in for an early set once you get them done and tested.

Posted by: Spoke Apr 14 2019, 05:57 AM

QUOTE(StratPlayer @ Apr 13 2019, 03:34 PM) *

Will you be making these for the rectangle style fog lights?


Once the round board is proved out, yes I plan to migrate to the rectangle style. Also want to do a rectangle style for the 911.





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Posted by: 914-300Hemi Apr 14 2019, 06:05 AM

Looks great Spoke.

Posted by: Spoke Apr 14 2019, 06:09 AM

This is the fixture I'll use to size the board. The reflector and original bulb socket will not be used.

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The wires from the original bulb are quite limited. The ground is a spade and the 12V is simply screwed onto the bulb socket. At least on my '71 these wires are quite short. It might be worthwhile to provide an entire pigtail for the LED board instead of trying to connect to the existing wires.

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Posted by: Spoke Apr 14 2019, 06:15 AM

I printed the PCB front and bottom sides since I can't print both at the same time.

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Here's the fitment of the PCB to the lens. This would be the clearance to the LED lenses. The depth of the lens leaves about 150mil gap between the PCB and the glass ledge. The PCB has to sit squarely on the ledge.

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This spacer ring was printed to sit between the glass and the PCB to be able to mount the PCB.

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Posted by: Spoke Apr 14 2019, 06:21 AM

With the spacer attached, now the PCB can sit squarely on the glass.

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Because the spacer and PCB thickness, the original clips which hold the original reflector are too short to hold the PCB in place. The top clip is a new one made from spring wire. It will be able to hold the spacer and PCB in place. This will put the PCB on the trim ring and will make it easy to install the entire assembly.

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Posted by: Tbrown4x4 Apr 14 2019, 07:09 AM

I'm totally supporting this. I drive at night 90% of the time, and my fog light reflectors are shot. I got a quote to re-silver at almost $100 each side. A quality LED conversion would give me my fog lights back.

Posted by: mb911 Apr 14 2019, 09:27 AM

Really excited for this although currently I only have 1 for light some day I will buy another and do this conversion..

Posted by: mepstein Apr 14 2019, 10:33 AM

QUOTE(mb911 @ Apr 14 2019, 11:27 AM) *

Really excited for this although currently I only have 1 for light some day I will buy another and do this conversion..

Ben- I sent Spoke 3. I have some more somewhere in a box but who knows where I put them. I want to give Spoke a nice set for his car (not the rusty set I sent him) but you are welcome to the odd one.
I think these will be amazing when finished.

Posted by: mepstein Apr 14 2019, 10:45 AM

QUOTE(Tbrown4x4 @ Apr 14 2019, 09:09 AM) *

I'm totally supporting this. I drive at night 90% of the time, and my fog light reflectors are shot. I got a quote to re-silver at almost $100 each side. A quality LED conversion would give me my fog lights back.

If you want the best led headlights out there - in my opinion- its these trucklight 7” headlights. Very popular with the Jeep guys as well as motorcycle riders. There are cheaper options but a lot of times you get what you pay for. They take 10 minutes to install with no mods and are a total game changer. They make driving at night so much easier. They look a little odd but during the day the lights are down anyway. Even though they are very bright, I never get flashed because they have a very good cut off. The high beam is insane. They use less voltage than ordinary lights so are a little easier on our cars older wires and less battery drain.


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Posted by: Tbrown4x4 Apr 15 2019, 05:02 AM

Good to know! I think I have these on an Amazon wish list already. I just haven't pulled the trigger yet.

Posted by: orthobiz Apr 15 2019, 03:31 PM

This is great, thanks. I posted some lens pictures at:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=233202&hl=

The early and late lenses have different heights, is that what you meant when you said "early?" More importantly, will this affect the LED project??

I LOVE visibility and have ALL of your stuff!!

Paul

Posted by: Mike Bellis Apr 15 2019, 07:22 PM

Why not mount the power supply remote in an IP65/67 enclosure mounted behind the 914 grille? It would free up some space and maybe reduce temps inside the light assembly.

Posted by: Spoke Apr 15 2019, 07:49 PM

QUOTE(orthobiz @ Apr 15 2019, 05:31 PM) *

This is great, thanks. I posted some lens pictures at:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=233202&hl=

The early and late lenses have different heights, is that what you meant when you said "early?" More importantly, will this affect the LED project??

I LOVE visibility and have ALL of your stuff!!

Paul


Thanks for the info. My '71 has the early lens which looks to be a bit deeper. After doing some initial measurements on my early lens, I didn't think I'd need a spacer as needed with the later lens. Either way shouldn't be an issue.

Posted by: Spoke Apr 15 2019, 07:53 PM

QUOTE(Mike Bellis @ Apr 15 2019, 09:22 PM) *

Why not mount the power supply remote in an IP65/67 enclosure mounted behind the 914 grille? It would free up some space and maybe reduce temps inside the light assembly.


This is what I did for the 356 running lights although the boost converter PCB was mounted inside the housing. I proposed a separate box to put the converter in but the owner didn't want an external box so I mounted on the back of the heatsink.

I'd like to keep it to one PCB for simplicity although a separate module may be needed depending on temperature rise.

Posted by: Spoke Apr 16 2019, 09:12 PM

OK, the PCBs have been sent to the fab house. Should have bare PCBs in about a week. Only ordered 5 of them since there will be a lot of learning going on with the first units. The PCB solder mask will be white like the other running light for the 356.

The XP-G3 LEDs in white come in different temperatures. I can get 3000K, 4000K, 5000K, 5700K, and 6500K. I know I don't want 3000K as that is basically warm white. I used those on the 356 lights and they were too yellow. I'm leaning toward 5000K right now. Anyone with knowledge of LED color temperatures have a suggestion?




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Posted by: FlacaProductions Apr 16 2019, 11:08 PM

I deal with color temp every day. 3200 is tungsten and 5600 is daylight - generally speaking. 4300 splits the difference with 3200 looking a little warm and 5600 looking a bit blue by comparison. I was thinking that 4000 or 5000 might be nice. 6500 would be really blue.

Posted by: orthobiz Apr 17 2019, 12:26 PM

Why do these need a converter when your other taillight/sidemarker lights don't?

Paul

Posted by: Spoke Apr 17 2019, 06:44 PM

QUOTE(orthobiz @ Apr 17 2019, 02:26 PM) *

Why do these need a converter when your other taillight/sidemarker lights don't?

Paul


There's a couple of reasons for using a converter on these lights. First the current is a lot higher for each LED. 350ma per LED for this foglight vs 20ma per LED for brake/turnsignals. Thus the current limiting resistor for brakes doesn't burn that much power. Total power burned by all the current limiting resistors on the brakes is less than 1W and it is evenly distributed across the board.

The brakes/turnsignals have 56 LEDs configured as 16 strings of 4 LEDs in series. 4 red or amber LEDs only need about 2V each or 8V total to turn on. In the foglight there are 8 LEDs total in one series string. White LEDs need about 3+ volts to turn on. Thus the total voltage of the string is over 24V and the need for a dc-dc converter.

With resistors providing current limit on the brakes/turnsignals, there is some brightness difference between battery voltages of 12V to 14V although it is not so noticeable.

For the foglights the light output must be constant for all operating voltages. This converter will turn on when the applied voltage is about 9V and the LED current will remain constant over the entire battery voltage range. This way there will be no flickering or dimming if the battery voltage is high or low.

In the 356 front light there were 19 LEDs in series and the voltage needed to drive that stack was over 50V.

Posted by: Morrie Apr 17 2019, 07:58 PM

Ideally you would have a converter with no resistors running in constant current mode rather than constant voltage. Or at least that’s how the growers are doing it.

QUOTE(Spoke @ Apr 17 2019, 07:44 PM) *

QUOTE(orthobiz @ Apr 17 2019, 02:26 PM) *

Why do these need a converter when your other taillight/sidemarker lights don't?

Paul


There's a couple of reasons for using a converter on these lights. First the current is a lot higher for each LED. 350ma per LED for this foglight vs 20ma per LED for brake/turnsignals. Thus the current limiting resistor for brakes doesn't burn that much power. Total power burned by all the current limiting resistors on the brakes is less than 1W and it is evenly distributed across the board.

The brakes/turnsignals have 56 LEDs configured as 16 strings of 4 LEDs in series. 4 red or amber LEDs only need about 2V each or 8V total to turn on. In the foglight there are 8 LEDs total in one series string. White LEDs need about 3+ volts to turn on. Thus the total voltage of the string is over 24V and the need for a dc-dc converter.

With resistors providing current limit on the brakes/turnsignals, there is some brightness difference between battery voltages of 12V to 14V although it is not so noticeable.

For the foglights the light output must be constant for all operating voltages. This converter will turn on when the applied voltage is about 9V and the LED current will remain constant over the entire battery voltage range. This way there will be no flickering or dimming if the battery voltage is high or low.

In the 356 front light there were 19 LEDs in series and the voltage needed to drive that stack was over 50V.


Posted by: orthobiz Apr 17 2019, 08:06 PM

[quote name='Spoke' date='Apr 17 2019, 08:44 PM' post='2706296']
[quote name='orthobiz' post='2706213' date='Apr 17 2019, 02:26 PM']
Why do these need a converter when your other taillight/sidemarker lights don't?

Paul
[/quote]

There's a couple of reasons for using a converter on these lights........

Thanks!

Paul

Posted by: 914forme Apr 17 2019, 08:22 PM

PDBs going to be green or black in the final version?

Posted by: Mblizzard Apr 18 2019, 12:18 PM

I will be in for a set of squares. Last lights on my care that are not LED!

Posted by: eric9144 Apr 18 2019, 01:57 PM

This is pretty awesome and totally something I'm in to buy... I had actually found LED bulbs to replace the stock fog's and well...the light is scattered and kind of looks like crap overall so if you want them for real visibility they're worthless... Keep up the good work Spoke!! beerchug.gif

Posted by: Spoke Apr 18 2019, 08:02 PM

QUOTE(914forme @ Apr 17 2019, 10:22 PM) *

PDBs going to be green or black in the final version?


The first boards will be white. I used white for the 356 lights. Here's the first 356 PCB I did as I was mounting the LEDs. These are a PITA since they are surface mount. I would tin the pads then while holding the LED with tweezers, heat the the pad with air and when the solder liquified I'd drop the LED in and wait until the solder re-liquefied then remove the heat. I would do 3 LEDs at a time then test them to make sure they were soldered correctly.

For these boards I'll use solder paste and an infrared reflow oven to put the LEDs down. Then the board will be flipped and the converter components will be mounted using solder paste and hot air.

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These are the Carclo 10192 elliptical lenses; one for each LED.

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Posted by: 76-914 Apr 19 2019, 07:16 AM

popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: ValcoOscar Apr 19 2019, 07:33 AM

Same here... popcorn[1].gif popcorn[1].gif popcorn[1].gif

I see several sets of SPOKE LED Fog Lights on my cars in the near future.

Oscar

Posted by: DRPHIL914 Apr 19 2019, 07:38 AM

thanks for taking this on! I asked about this a year ago when I backdated my bumpers and sourced a nice set of OEM NOS early round fogs. I had put the H1 LED bulbs in my late square fogs and they worked fine but this is a much better way to go. I don't want to clog this documentation thread with requests so I will be looking forward to a new thread for purchase of these once you are ready !

I agree about the comments on color, you don't want to go too blue so probably staying closer to the 4000-5000k max would be best - why not a "spectrum" not just one but rather 2or 3 different ones all on the same board , how would that work?

Phil

Posted by: Spoke Apr 19 2019, 02:34 PM

QUOTE(Morrie @ Apr 17 2019, 09:58 PM) *

Ideally you would have a converter with no resistors running in constant current mode rather than constant voltage. Or at least that’s how the growers are doing it.


agree.gif

This is a boost converter running constant current of 350ma. There are a couple of control loops. One for the FET/Inductor current, one for the LED current and a 3rd constant voltage output in case of open LEDs to protect the components from over voltage.

Posted by: Spoke Apr 19 2019, 02:39 PM

QUOTE(DRPHIL914 @ Apr 19 2019, 09:38 AM) *

I agree about the comments on color, you don't want to go too blue so probably staying closer to the 4000-5000k max would be best - why not a "spectrum" not just one but rather 2or 3 different ones all on the same board , how would that work?

Phil


Not sure what a light would look like with mixed temperature LEDs.

I just ordered 5000K LEDs enough to do 4 boards. We'll see what they look like when put together. Also ordered the heatsinks and all other components. Digikey was out of the Carclo 10192 lenses so I'll order them through Arrow.

Posted by: ClayPerrine Apr 19 2019, 02:40 PM

QUOTE(Spoke @ Apr 18 2019, 09:02 PM) *

QUOTE(914forme @ Apr 17 2019, 10:22 PM) *

PDBs going to be green or black in the final version?


The first boards will be white. I used white for the 356 lights. Here's the first 356 PCB I did as I was mounting the LEDs. These are a PITA since they are surface mount. I would tin the pads then while holding the LED with tweezers, heat the the pad with air and when the solder liquified I'd drop the LED in and wait until the solder re-liquefied then remove the heat. I would do 3 LEDs at a time then test them to make sure they were soldered correctly.

For these boards I'll use solder paste and an infrared reflow oven to put the LEDs down. Then the board will be flipped and the converter components will be mounted using solder paste and hot air.

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These are the Carclo 10192 elliptical lenses; one for each LED.

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I used to do component level repair on computer motherboards. We would desolder the offending surface mount chip, tin the contacts on the replacement chip, and use a drop of super glue to hold it in place. After that, less than a minute in the hot air machine and it would be soldered.

That was 26 years ago. Maybe technology on how to install surface mount chips has changed.

Posted by: Spoke Apr 22 2019, 06:59 PM

To reduce component and assembly cost, I'm looking for modules to do the 12V-to-constant-current conversion. I found this one from LEDsupply up in Vermont. It looks like it has all the features (12V input) and 350mA output. The package is only 0.83x0.83x0.43 inch. The one downside is the maximum operating temperature is 85C. It might be high enough temperature. Won't know until I build up a board.

PCBs are out of the fab and in shipping. Also ordered all other components. Should be able to do some assembly next week or the week after.




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Posted by: Al Meredith Apr 23 2019, 03:39 PM

would it make sense to have two levels, one for running / daytime and one for night time use. the heat for daytime running would be decreased . AL

Posted by: windforfun Apr 23 2019, 04:02 PM

QUOTE(FlacaProductions @ Apr 16 2019, 09:08 PM) *

I deal with color temp every day. 3200 is tungsten and 5600 is daylight - generally speaking. 4300 splits the difference with 3200 looking a little warm and 5600 looking a bit blue by comparison. I was thinking that 4000 or 5000 might be nice. 6500 would be really blue.


This is known as Plank's Law or Wien's Displacement Law. FYI. I guess you can tell that I'm partially retired now.

Posted by: Spoke Apr 24 2019, 06:50 AM

QUOTE(Al Meredith @ Apr 23 2019, 05:39 PM) *

would it make sense to have two levels, one for running / daytime and one for night time use. the heat for daytime running would be decreased . AL


It is possible to do that. Also most LED drivers have an input to dim or decrease the current. By putting a negative temperature coefficient resistor on the input, the current can be decreased by an increase in temperature.

Posted by: Chi-town Apr 24 2019, 09:25 AM

Just a thought but if you're using a LED chip with an optic and then putting behind a standard thick fluted lens the output is going to be severely reduced. I would guess roughly 30%.

Have you put the standard lens on top of your prototype to see what happens?

Posted by: Spoke Apr 24 2019, 11:11 AM

QUOTE(Chi-town @ Apr 24 2019, 11:25 AM) *

Just a thought but if you're using a LED chip with an optic and then putting behind a standard thick fluted lens the output is going to be severely reduced. I would guess roughly 30%.

Have you put the standard lens on top of your prototype to see what happens?


Not sure how the glass lens will attenuate the light from the LEDs. Once I get the first PCBs populated I'll be able to do some testing on it. The vertical diffusers of the glass lens will tend to broaden the width of the beam. The LED lenses also broaden the beam so maybe I'll have to use more of a spot type of LED lens instead of the 10192 lens and let the glass do the horizontal spreading.

Posted by: Spoke Apr 26 2019, 08:01 AM

Have the PCBs in hand. Will assemble the first boards on Monday.




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Posted by: Spoke Apr 26 2019, 08:03 AM

Here's the PCB under the glass. It will be interesting to see how the fluted glass will diffuse the beams. The LED lens already provides some lateral diffusion.

The Boostpucks by LEDynamics also arrived. I'll probably power the first prototype with these as it will shorten the time to first light-up.


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Posted by: DRPHIL914 Apr 26 2019, 08:06 AM

popcorn[1].gif

Looking good! Cant wait to see them in action!


Posted by: Spoke Apr 29 2019, 01:55 PM

Things like this happen when you set the temperature profile wrong on the infrared oven.


@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 I have your foglight board. Not sure why it doesn't light up but I'm working on that. beerchug.gif


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Posted by: mepstein Apr 29 2019, 02:14 PM

QUOTE(Spoke @ Apr 29 2019, 03:55 PM) *

Things like this happen when you set the temperature profile wrong on the infrared oven.


@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 I have your foglight board. Not sure why it doesn't light up but I'm working on that. beerchug.gif

That looks more like when I try to do electrical work.

Posted by: Spoke Apr 29 2019, 03:06 PM

With the correct settings, the oven worked fine.

BTW Mark, this one is mine.




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Posted by: Spoke Apr 29 2019, 03:10 PM

All lit up with LED lenses. Won't be able to compare light output until night. Also want to compare with original bulbs.




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Posted by: Spoke Apr 29 2019, 03:13 PM

Printed a jig to drill the heat sink for tapping. Will be using 6-32 x 3/8 stainless cap screws.




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Posted by: Spoke Apr 29 2019, 03:43 PM

Here's the light pattern with 0.5A per LED [attachmentid=695594]on the ceiling w/o the glass lens. Basically what the manufacturer said it would be.



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Posted by: Spoke Apr 29 2019, 03:46 PM

The glass lens fits nicely with the printed spacer. I believe the earlier lenses have a deeper cavity.




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Posted by: Spoke Apr 29 2019, 03:48 PM

Here's the light pattern with 0.5A with the glass lens. The effect of the glass diffusers can be seen.

As Chi-town mentioned, there will be some loss of light because of the glass diffuser. It seems to be about 15%.

With 0.5A at 1 meter, I measure:

10000 Lux w/o glass
8500 Lux w/glass

At 0.35A at 1 meter:

6000 Lux w/o glass
4500 Lux w/glass




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Posted by: Spoke Apr 29 2019, 04:49 PM

Redesigned the spacer rings so the boards can screw into them. This is how they will be assembled.


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Posted by: Spoke Apr 29 2019, 04:51 PM

These are the wrong screws. These are #4 x 5/16 whereas the correct screws are #2 x 1/4. They'll do for now.



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Posted by: Spoke Apr 30 2019, 04:10 AM

The first fully built up PCB. Somehow I managed to not order the correct caps for input and output filtering so had to use smaller lower voltage caps. Original caps should be 100V whereas these are 50V.

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Posted by: Spoke Apr 30 2019, 04:15 AM

Started doing some burn in on the first unit. Will run this for a couple of days to make sure it works. The LEDs are running 0.5A and the total unit power dissipation is just under 14W or just about 1A at 14V input.

Comparing the light output with the headlights on my '14 328, these are less than 1/2 as bright. The headlights on the 328 measured 19000Lux at 1 meter whereas this unit measured 8700Lux with the glass lens.

From early measurements, it looks like there's about a 40C rise in temperatures over ambient. That's about what I expect. It will be interesting to get this in an enclosure and see what happens.




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Posted by: DRPHIL914 Apr 30 2019, 05:54 AM

Looks great!!! Cant wait to get a set!!
That a lot of R&D time invested in these, but looks like it will be worth it

Posted by: jkb944t Apr 30 2019, 06:15 AM

QUOTE(Spoke @ Apr 30 2019, 06:15 AM) *

Started doing some burn in on the first unit. Will run this for a couple of days to make sure it works. The LEDs are running 0.5A and the total unit power dissipation is just under 14W or just about 1A at 14V input.

Comparing the light output with the headlights on my '14 328, these are less than 1/2 as bright. The headlights on the 328 measured 19000Lux at 1 meter whereas this unit measured 8700Lux with the glass lens.

From early measurements, it looks like there's about a 40C rise in temperatures over ambient. That's about what I expect. It will be interesting to get this in an enclosure and see what happens.


This is so cool, I am really enjoying seeing your progress on this project!

Jeff B

Posted by: Spoke May 3 2019, 07:59 PM

Burned in the prototype for about 20 hours this week. It still works so that's a good start. With little airflow, the PCB temperature was about 50C above ambient. It will be interesting to see what the temperature rise is when operated in the case.

Put the LEDs in the case. To center the glass lens and LED board, some clips were printed to hold the board while the clips are installed.

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Posted by: Spoke May 3 2019, 08:01 PM

The metal clips will need to be made for each unit. The original only had 2 clips and I'm using 4 clips for the PCB plus the clips are deeper than the originals.

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Posted by: Spoke May 3 2019, 08:04 PM

The PCB fits nicely in the case. Will run this for a while to make sure the temperature rise is ok.

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Posted by: Spoke May 3 2019, 08:07 PM

Not sure how to connect up to the existing wires yet. The ground spade and wire in the fixture were not in good shape with a fair amount of oxidation.

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Posted by: ClayPerrine May 3 2019, 08:50 PM

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Posted by: Chi-town May 3 2019, 09:58 PM

Can you take a pic of the light output on a wall from about 8' away?

Posted by: Spoke May 4 2019, 05:42 AM

This is the light pattern projected on the ceiling about 7 feet away.

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Posted by: Spoke May 5 2019, 02:13 PM

Got the prototype lit up in the foglight enclosure. Been running this at 12V @ 1A for about 2 hours. The internal temps seem to be ok at about 65C. This means a temperature rise of about 45C. So in 50C weather, the internal temps should be below 100C.

Later tonight or tomorrow I hope to compare the light output with the fogs on my '71.

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Posted by: Spoke May 6 2019, 09:52 PM

Compared the output of the LED foglight to the foglights on my '71. Here's the standard foglights on the car. The light has a nice cutoff top and bottom giving just a narrow light band.

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Posted by: Spoke May 6 2019, 09:57 PM

The driver side foglight is covered up and the LED foglight is lit up right next to the car. The LED does not have a sharp cutoff and the additional intensity of the LED washes out the tight cutoff of the passenger side foglight.

At 1 meter, here are the measurements of the lamps:
914 Foglight: 1800 Lux
LED Foglight: 5500 Lux

The LED foglight is 3x brighter than the standard foglight on my '71 although the upper cutoff is not as sharp with the LED as the standard foglight. The LED may need to be adjusted a bit lower to not be too bright to oncoming drivers.

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Posted by: Chi-town May 6 2019, 10:48 PM

That upper washout will be blinding to oncoming traffic sad.gif

Posted by: Luke M May 7 2019, 07:43 AM

Would the fog light lens make a difference ?
I do not know so I figured I throw it out there.

Your 71 should have the early TN1-TN2 lens.
The LED fog lens is a later TN4.

Posted by: Spoke May 7 2019, 05:21 PM

QUOTE(Luke M @ May 7 2019, 09:43 AM) *

Would the fog light lens make a difference ?
I do not know so I figured I throw it out there.

Your 71 should have the early TN1-TN2 lens.
The LED fog lens is a later TN4.


Yes the '71 has the early lens and the LEDs have the later lens. The lens has got to have an effect on the light pattern. The TN4 with the LEDs actually makes brighter vertical bars. It would be best to have no lensing with the LEDs but the goal is to retro-fit these LEDs in existing fixtures.

I need to put the LEDs in an early TN1/2 lens. Anyone have a TN1/2 fixture they would like to volunteer for a while? Where's @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 ?

Posted by: mepstein May 7 2019, 05:28 PM

QUOTE(Spoke @ May 7 2019, 07:21 PM) *

QUOTE(Luke M @ May 7 2019, 09:43 AM) *

Would the fog light lens make a difference ?
I do not know so I figured I throw it out there.

Your 71 should have the early TN1-TN2 lens.
The LED fog lens is a later TN4.


Yes the '71 has the early lens and the LEDs have the later lens. The lens has got to have an effect on the light pattern. The TN4 with the LEDs actually makes brighter vertical bars. It would be best to have no lensing with the LEDs but the goal is to retro-fit these LEDs in existing fixtures.

I need to put the LEDs in an early TN1/2 lens. Anyone have a TN1/2 fixture they would like to volunteer for a while? Where's @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 ?

I can send you one tomorrow.
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=3031

Posted by: Spoke May 7 2019, 05:35 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ May 7 2019, 07:28 PM) *

QUOTE(Spoke @ May 7 2019, 07:21 PM) *

QUOTE(Luke M @ May 7 2019, 09:43 AM) *

Would the fog light lens make a difference ?
I do not know so I figured I throw it out there.

Your 71 should have the early TN1-TN2 lens.
The LED fog lens is a later TN4.


Yes the '71 has the early lens and the LEDs have the later lens. The lens has got to have an effect on the light pattern. The TN4 with the LEDs actually makes brighter vertical bars. It would be best to have no lensing with the LEDs but the goal is to retro-fit these LEDs in existing fixtures.

I need to put the LEDs in an early TN1/2 lens. Anyone have a TN1/2 fixture they would like to volunteer for a while? Where's @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 ?

I can send you one tomorrow.
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=3031


Thanks. You mentioned you had a nicer foglight fixture you wanted to use on your car. Are you sending that set too? I want to get the boards built up for your car and I might as well have the fixtures so I can install the boards on the lenses.

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825

Posted by: mepstein May 7 2019, 06:01 PM

QUOTE(Spoke @ May 7 2019, 07:35 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ May 7 2019, 07:28 PM) *

QUOTE(Spoke @ May 7 2019, 07:21 PM) *

QUOTE(Luke M @ May 7 2019, 09:43 AM) *

Would the fog light lens make a difference ?
I do not know so I figured I throw it out there.

Your 71 should have the early TN1-TN2 lens.
The LED fog lens is a later TN4.


Yes the '71 has the early lens and the LEDs have the later lens. The lens has got to have an effect on the light pattern. The TN4 with the LEDs actually makes brighter vertical bars. It would be best to have no lensing with the LEDs but the goal is to retro-fit these LEDs in existing fixtures.

I need to put the LEDs in an early TN1/2 lens. Anyone have a TN1/2 fixture they would like to volunteer for a while? Where's @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 ?

I can send you one tomorrow.
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=3031


Thanks. You mentioned you had a nicer foglight fixture you wanted to use on your car. Are you sending that set too? I want to get the boards built up for your car and I might as well have the fixtures so I can install the boards on the lenses.

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825

I have two early sets I can send you. One question, to remove from the car, where are the wires connected.

Posted by: Spoke May 7 2019, 06:21 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ May 7 2019, 08:01 PM) *


I have two early sets I can send you. One question, to remove from the car, where are the wires connected.


That's a good question. I don't know how the foglight ties in with the wire loom. That's still something I need to work out. The wires on my '71 foglights are very short at the fixture. Not sure if there's more slack inside the trunk.

It would seem that the 914 wire harness would include the wires right to the foglight as part of the harness.

Posted by: mepstein May 7 2019, 06:45 PM

QUOTE(Spoke @ May 7 2019, 08:21 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ May 7 2019, 08:01 PM) *


I have two early sets I can send you. One question, to remove from the car, where are the wires connected.


That's a good question. I don't know how the foglight ties in with the wire loom. That's still something I need to work out. The wires on my '71 foglights are very short at the fixture. Not sure if there's more slack inside the trunk.

It would seem that the 914 wire harness would include the wires right to the foglight as part of the harness.

So should I cut wires and plan on adding connectors or can I remove wires at the housing. I’ll do whatever you think best.

Posted by: JeffBowlsby May 7 2019, 06:55 PM

Open the housing and disconnect the wires! No cutting allowed!

Posted by: worn May 7 2019, 07:54 PM

QUOTE(JeffBowlsby @ May 7 2019, 04:55 PM) *

Open the housing and disconnect the wires! No cutting allowed!

Certainly cut no wires. Looks like a plus for us all. Now, since I have a pair of old Bosch rectangular fog lights mounted on my TR6, should I order LEDs for a Porsche or a Triumph?

Posted by: Spoke May 8 2019, 08:02 PM

QUOTE(JeffBowlsby @ May 7 2019, 08:55 PM) *

Open the housing and disconnect the wires! No cutting allowed!


Agreed. My LED boards are designed to be plug'n'play without cutting the vehicle wiring using the existing bulb plug to power the LEDs. An exception to that are the Triumph Spitfire and TR6 where the bulb sockets are so unreliable that LED boards connect directly to the wire loom bypassing the bulb socket.

For the 914 foglight, there's not much play in the wiring at the foglight fixture. I didn't think there was a connector for the the fogs inside the trunk. One issue is the condition of the ground spade connector. The one foglight fixture from Mark the ground spade was rusted onto the lug on the fixture. For the foglight the original bulb socket will not be used as the reflector and bulb socket are not used with the LEDs.

I'll make it work with the existing wires.


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Posted by: Spoke May 9 2019, 07:12 PM

I'm working on a 911 variant of the foglight like the 914 that I'm doing now. The 911 will use an LEDdynamics 4015 constant-current 350ma module. For the 911, I can't put any circuitry behind the PCB like the early 914 foglights.

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Posted by: mepstein May 9 2019, 07:23 PM

Early ones are on their way. They are in much better shape than the first set. CA car vs PA car. They came apart easily. Except the one little grub screw that evaporated into thin air.

Jerry - Thanks for doing this.

Posted by: Spoke May 9 2019, 07:24 PM

QUOTE(StratPlayer @ Apr 13 2019, 03:34 PM) *

Will you be making these for the rectangle style fog lights?


If you can forward a single square fixture, I'll design a board for it.

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=27


If you don't have an extra fixture, maybe @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 has an extra square foglight fixture.

Posted by: mepstein May 9 2019, 07:37 PM

QUOTE(Spoke @ May 9 2019, 09:24 PM) *

QUOTE(StratPlayer @ Apr 13 2019, 03:34 PM) *

Will you be making these for the rectangle style fog lights?


If you can forward a single square fixture, I'll design a board for it.

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=27


If you don't have an extra fixture, maybe @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 has an extra square foglight fixture.

No, I had a set from a ‘75 parts car and couldn’t give them away so eventually threw them away. Ask chi-town. He’s backdating a later car. Might have fogs.
I still think there is potential in the hood lights. They are on many marques and rally cars.

Posted by: Chi-town May 9 2019, 08:48 PM

Sorry no fogs on my 75'

Posted by: DRPHIL914 May 10 2019, 08:13 AM

QUOTE(Spoke @ May 9 2019, 09:24 PM) *

QUOTE(StratPlayer @ Apr 13 2019, 03:34 PM) *

Will you be making these for the rectangle style fog lights?


If you can forward a single square fixture, I'll design a board for it.

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=27


If you don't have an extra fixture, maybe @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 has an extra square foglight fixture.


I have a rectangular fixture that is missing the glass lens I can send you .
PM me with an address and I can sent it out tomorrow- i backdated my bumpers so I will be getting the early round LED that you are working on now, but my 75 wiring harness has the female connector for a spade from the light for + , the ground was supplied not by wire but thru the light body which grounded to the frame thru the mounting to bumper and bumper to car chassis .
Anyway let me know if you want this light to use for your mock up
Phil

Posted by: Chi-town May 10 2019, 08:32 AM

Are you going to try different optics or main lenses to see if you can get the pattern back under control? If not these things will be dangerous to other drivers on the road.

Posted by: mepstein May 10 2019, 08:42 AM

QUOTE(Chi-town @ May 10 2019, 10:32 AM) *

Are you going to try different optics or main lenses to see if you can get the pattern back under control? If not these things will be dangerous to other drivers on the road.

Do regular fogs have a cutoff?
I know if I left the fogs lit on my Durango, cars flashed me.

Posted by: Luke M May 10 2019, 10:31 AM

QUOTE(mepstein @ May 10 2019, 07:42 AM) *

QUOTE(Chi-town @ May 10 2019, 10:32 AM) *

Are you going to try different optics or main lenses to see if you can get the pattern back under control? If not these things will be dangerous to other drivers on the road.

Do regular fogs have a cutoff?
I know if I left the fogs lit on my Durango, cars flashed me.



The way most newer cars are wired from the factory you can't turn on the fog lights w/o having the headlights on. Once the headlights are on the fog lights will turn on but once you turn on the high beams the fog lights turn off. After the high beams are turned off and back to low beam the fogs turn back on. You can wire the fog lights so they can turn on w/o the headlights on. I plan on doing just that on my 6. I may even use my fog lights as daytime driving lights along with my euro led front turn signal lights.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=330111

Once the fog lights/headlights are adjusted there shouldn't be a problem with blinding oncoming traffic. Yes, you will get the people that still flash their lights at you if they think it's too bright. There's not much you can do about that. I drive a pickup truck as my dd and even with the headlights on low I get the oncoming traffic flashing their lights at me. My dd has factory headlights on it but it's the height of the vehicle that puts the headlights right inline of sight. The height causes it to seam brighter then what they are. Then you get the newer vehicles with their led/high res lights that seam way too bright as well. All are within DOT standards but still other drivers may feel they are too bright and flash. I get this a lot when I drive my truck. I even showed an elderly gentleman that complained that my high beams where on in a parking lot. When I showed him it was on low beam vs high beam he apologized and went on his way. Like stated once adjusted properly there shouldn't be an issue.


Posted by: Chi-town May 10 2019, 12:09 PM

There's a big difference between an old 35 watt halogen bulb behind secondary reflector and multiple LED output straight out the lens.

If you look at the output shot he posted the light is everywhere there's not even a focused beam to aim.

LEDs are meant to be in a projector housing with a defined cutoff to be legal and safe for oncoming traffic.

I spent a year dealing with LED lights and SAE/DOT regulations and there are some pretty specific limitations to keep you from blinding others.

With out improved optics and light control these are just a bad idea



Posted by: Spoke May 10 2019, 02:54 PM

QUOTE(Chi-town @ May 10 2019, 10:32 AM) *

Are you going to try different optics or main lenses to see if you can get the pattern back under control? If not these things will be dangerous to other drivers on the road.


I think I'll be able to cut down on the upper washout by applying a shade over the top of each LED lens. Will be doing some experimentation to see what is the best shading to achieve a sharper upper cut off.

Posted by: Spoke Jun 1 2019, 06:52 AM

Put the board into one of the fixtures provided by @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 . The LED lenses and holders fit under the early glass without any spacers as with the later glass. So the original clips can be used.

Mark, I'm planning to paint the fixtures since these will be ready to be installed when I return them.



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Posted by: Spoke Jun 1 2019, 06:53 AM

The early lenses are at least 5mm deeper than the later lenses.



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Posted by: mepstein Jun 1 2019, 07:02 AM

QUOTE(Spoke @ Jun 1 2019, 08:52 AM) *

Put the board into one of the fixtures provided by @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 . The LED lenses and holders fit under the early glass without any spacers as with the later glass. So the original clips can be used.

Mark, I'm planning to paint the fixtures since these will be ready to be installed when I return them.

beerchug.gif

Posted by: Spoke Jun 1 2019, 07:04 AM

Does anyone make the rubber gasket that goes around the lens? Or is this part of the lens? @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=3348


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Posted by: Chi-town Jun 1 2019, 08:13 AM

914 Rubber makes them

Posted by: Spoke Jun 1 2019, 09:13 AM

QUOTE(Chi-town @ Jun 1 2019, 10:13 AM) *

914 Rubber makes them


Thanks. I ordered 2 sets. Didn't find them at first. They were on the gasket page and not on the lens page.

Posted by: Mikey914 Jun 1 2019, 09:54 PM

Ill make sure they get cross listed. We also ma in e protective lens covers and the spring clips that hold these into the outer rings.

Posted by: Spoke Jun 11 2019, 07:44 PM

Finally got the 2nd 914 foglight assembled. This discrete converter kicks ass but is a pain in the ass to assemble.

The board on the left is a 911 foglight. I'm hoping to get those installed on my 930 this weekend. The 911 foglight uses a boost module and is much easier to assemble. The only difference at this point is the module is 350ma whereas the discrete converter is 500ma. I'm hoping the 911 foglight will still be significantly brighter than the OEM bulb even with the lower 350ma current.

If the 911 foglight is bright enough, I may go with the module for the 914 foglights. I have 4 of these first 914 boards that I will build up. I'll put a pair on my 914 and give the other pair to mepstein.


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Posted by: Spoke Jun 11 2019, 07:47 PM

Here's the 911 foglight fitted in the lens. The fit is perfect and plastic spacers keep the board in place. Since the reflector is part of the fixture, there can be no components on the backside of the board like the 914 foglight.




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Posted by: Spoke Jun 11 2019, 07:51 PM

Here's the 911 board with the reflector installed. The fit is very good and should be an easy update for anyone. One annoyance with the converter module is it has no undervoltage lockout. It starts turning on at about 3-4V and can run very hot at this voltage.

The 911 foglight burns about 9W.




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Posted by: DRPHIL914 Jul 16 2019, 07:49 AM

QUOTE(Spoke @ Jun 11 2019, 09:44 PM) *

Finally got the 2nd 914 foglight assembled. This discrete converter kicks ass but is a pain in the ass to assemble.

The board on the left is a 911 foglight. I'm hoping to get those installed on my 930 this weekend. The 911 foglight uses a boost module and is much easier to assemble. The only difference at this point is the module is 350ma whereas the discrete converter is 500ma. I'm hoping the 911 foglight will still be significantly brighter than the OEM bulb even with the lower 350ma current.

If the 911 foglight is bright enough, I may go with the module for the 914 foglights. I have 4 of these first 914 boards that I will build up. I'll put a pair on my 914 and give the other pair to mepstein.



any updates on the beta testing of these? hoping to get a set when you are ready to do so.
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=3031 @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825

Dr. Phil

Posted by: Spoke Jul 17 2019, 06:20 AM

QUOTE(DRPHIL914 @ Jul 16 2019, 09:49 AM) *

QUOTE(Spoke @ Jun 11 2019, 09:44 PM) *

Finally got the 2nd 914 foglight assembled. This discrete converter kicks ass but is a pain in the ass to assemble.

The board on the left is a 911 foglight. I'm hoping to get those installed on my 930 this weekend. The 911 foglight uses a boost module and is much easier to assemble. The only difference at this point is the module is 350ma whereas the discrete converter is 500ma. I'm hoping the 911 foglight will still be significantly brighter than the OEM bulb even with the lower 350ma current.

If the 911 foglight is bright enough, I may go with the module for the 914 foglights. I have 4 of these first 914 boards that I will build up. I'll put a pair on my 914 and give the other pair to mepstein.



any updates on the beta testing of these? hoping to get a set when you are ready to do so.
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=3031 @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825

Dr. Phil


I did get a 2nd set of fogs assembled for mepstein but haven't refurbished his or my foglight cases. Don't want to put the foglights in beat up cases. It will be a few weeks before I get our foglights ready to test out.

I'm further ahead with the 911 foglights as they use a dc-dc converter module with very few discrete components and are very easy to assemble. Any further 914 fogs will use this module.

Here's a link at Pelican:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/854989-led-brake-lights-44.html#post10523070

This is the 2nd set of 911 fogs built and sent to a 911 guy for him to install and evaluate.

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Posted by: DRPHIL914 Jul 17 2019, 06:28 AM

QUOTE(Spoke @ Jul 17 2019, 08:20 AM) *

QUOTE(DRPHIL914 @ Jul 16 2019, 09:49 AM) *

QUOTE(Spoke @ Jun 11 2019, 09:44 PM) *

Finally got the 2nd 914 foglight assembled. This discrete converter kicks ass but is a pain in the ass to assemble.

The board on the left is a 911 foglight. I'm hoping to get those installed on my 930 this weekend. The 911 foglight uses a boost module and is much easier to assemble. The only difference at this point is the module is 350ma whereas the discrete converter is 500ma. I'm hoping the 911 foglight will still be significantly brighter than the OEM bulb even with the lower 350ma current.

If the 911 foglight is bright enough, I may go with the module for the 914 foglights. I have 4 of these first 914 boards that I will build up. I'll put a pair on my 914 and give the other pair to mepstein.



any updates on the beta testing of these? hoping to get a set when you are ready to do so.
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=3031 @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825

Dr. Phil


I did get a 2nd set of fogs assembled for mepstein but haven't refurbished his or my foglight cases. Don't want to put the foglights in beat up cases. It will be a few weeks before I get our foglights ready to test out.

I'm further ahead with the 911 foglights as they use a dc-dc converter module with very few discrete components and are very easy to assemble. Any further 914 fogs will use this module.

Here's a link at Pelican:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/854989-led-brake-lights-44.html#post10523070

This is the 2nd set of 911 fogs built and sent to a 911 guy for him to install and evaluate.

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thanks for the update . If I had known your issues were mainly dealing with
the condition of the fog lights I could have sent you mine, they are mint condition no rust or corrosion. in fact if you make that next set with this 911converter you are now planning on using I will pull these off the car and send them to you if you want to put them in and do some testing or have me test them. I have some other running lights I can put in or just go with out them for a while , I rarely drive the car in this 100 degree heat. I would like to have it complete before Okteenerfest though.
either way let me know.

Phil

Posted by: mepstein Jul 17 2019, 06:53 AM

Jerry, I wish I sent you better condition fogs. I just know it was taking me so long to send anything that I wanted you to have something to work with. I found the nicer sets when I stopped looking for them. I can refurbish the housings at work, powdercoat, ect so don't feel like you have to do more work on these. I promise not to post pictures until they look pretty. biggrin.gif

Posted by: ConeDodger Jul 17 2019, 12:34 PM

I’d love to do these but my fogs are actually aftermarket. Pilots I think...


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Posted by: ConeDodger Jul 17 2019, 12:43 PM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=3031 any chance of doing amber?

Posted by: Spoke Jul 18 2019, 10:51 AM

QUOTE(ConeDodger @ Jul 17 2019, 02:43 PM) *

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=3031 any chance of doing amber?


Interesting thought. I'm not sure amber would work with the board designed for white LEDs. The reason is the voltage drop of the amber LED is 2V and the voltage drop of the white is 3V.

With 8 LEDs in series, the amber LEDs would drop 16V whereas the white will drop 24V. The issue is the boost converter I've targeted requires at least 3V difference between input (up to 14V) and output (16V for 8 amber; 24V for 8 white).

If 2 more amber LEDs were added, then the voltage drop would be 20V and compatible with the converter. I could either make a separate 10-LED board for ambers or make one board which would accept 8 or 10 LEDs.

Posted by: Spoke Jul 29 2019, 08:54 PM

Finally got around to installing the LED foglights on my 914. The following posts detail the installation of these LEDs into an early 914 foglight.

The later foglight lenses have less room inside the lens and require a thick spacer (3-5mm) so the LEDs fit under the glass lens. On the early foglights, this spacing isn't an issue.

Start by removing the bumper. 2 bolts on each side. I loosened the bolts all round then removed them on one side and rested the bumper on a bucket while the bolts were removed on the other side.

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Open up the foglight fixture by removing the small screw on the bottom of the fixture which holds the bezel in place.

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Disconnect the bulb holder from the bezel/lens/reflector assembly. Take the assembly to the workbench. Do both sides.

On the car, the bulb holder is removed from the 12V wire by loosening the flat-head screw holding the 12V wire to the bulb fixture. The bulb and its holder will not be used.

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Posted by: Spoke Jul 29 2019, 09:12 PM

The bezel/lens/reflector assembly is separated by removing the 4 metal clips behind the bezel. Always wear eye protection when removing/replacing these clips because they have a tendency to fly across the room.

Also remove/replace in a smallish, clean or clutter-free room. Reason for this is when these clips fly, they can go all over the place and are hard to find. Chances are at least one of these spring clips will fly during removal/replacement.

Remove the clips with a flathead screwdriver depressing the longer of the 2 arms of the clip. Notice that the clips are different on the left assembly than the right assembly. Take a picture of the assembly before removing the clips so the orientation of the clips is remembered.

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Once disassembled, clean the glass lens and refurbish the bezel as you desire. I only washed the bezels on my car. Replace the rubber gasket around the lens with a new one. These are available at 914rubber. Notice the tape on the top part of the LED lenses. This is to attempt to cut off the light bleed upward. It does cut off some light on the upper side but isn't 100%.

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This is the spacer ring to align the LED board to the glass bezel. It will be attached to the board when the board is assembled.

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Posted by: Spoke Jul 29 2019, 09:17 PM

Here's the board with the alignment ring attached.

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When mating the LED board with the lens, make sure the gasket remains in place.

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Posted by: Spoke Jul 29 2019, 09:22 PM

Here is the board mated to the lens. The alignment tab tat the top of the lens fits into the alignment gap at the top of the board alignment ring.

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Posted by: Spoke Jul 29 2019, 09:28 PM

Now comes the tricky part: getting the spring clips back on to hold the bezel/lens/board assembly together. The lens is self-aligned with the bezel via a ridge on the outside bottom of the lens. There is a recess in the bezel where this ridge will fit.

To assist this step, 4 special clips are provided to hold the board in place. These clip right on and hold the board in place so the spring clips can be installed.

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Reinstall the spring clips, one on each side of the heat sink. An installation tool will be provide to help install the spring clips. Again use eye protection and do the work in a smallish, clutter-free room in case one of the clips takes off.

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Posted by: Spoke Jul 29 2019, 09:32 PM

Reinstall the spring clips to both lights and we're almost ready for installation. Need to add quick connect spades to the 12V wires and clean the ground spade.

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Posted by: Spoke Jul 29 2019, 09:40 PM

The driver side 12V wire is kind of a pain since it is 2 wires soldered together with some shrink wrap on it. The 2 wires were also flattened by the attachment of the wires to the bulb holder. I had to use a spade made for 10-12 gauge wire.

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This spade isn't optimal as it should be shielded but it was all my FLAPS had in the 10-12 gauge range. The ground spade needs to be removed from the fixture and cleaned.

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The passenger side was easier since it had only one wire with soldered end. I was able to use a shielded male spade on this one. The spades will be included with the LED boards for easy installation.

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Posted by: Spoke Jul 29 2019, 09:45 PM

Time to connect the LEDs and test them. The board is set on a bucket or other item so wires can be attached without stressing any connections. Do not let the board hang by its wires. Also avoid touching any of the electronics on the board.

Before making the connect to the ground spade, a short section of heat shrink tubing is added to insulate the ground spade. Once the ground connection is made, slide the tubing into place and heat it.

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Test the board before continuing. If any connections are not made, now is the time to adjust things.

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Posted by: Spoke Jul 29 2019, 09:48 PM

Install the bezel assembly making sure the wires are all inside the unit. Make sure the bezel is on straight. Replace the locking clip on the bottom and replace the small screw to hold the locking clip in place. Test the light again.

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Posted by: Spoke Jul 29 2019, 09:53 PM

Repeat the installation on the other side. Support the assembly, slide the heat shrink on the ground wire, attach wires and heat the ground tubing. Test the light.

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The wire should tuck nicely inside the fixture. Make sure the wire stays inside the fixture during installation.

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Install the bezel making sure the bezel assembly is straight. Screw in the locking clip and retest.

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Posted by: Spoke Jul 29 2019, 09:54 PM

Replace the bumper and the installation is finished.

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Posted by: advman89 Jul 30 2019, 11:37 AM

...and after all that.....964 Fog Lamps. You can't do anything but stock bulbs in them.

Posted by: Spoke Aug 10 2019, 08:48 AM

I'm getting ready to order some boards with updated dc/dc converter modules and was wondering if I should get the boards in white or black. One guy trying out my 911 fog lights thought they would look better with a black board.

Anyone have a preference?



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Posted by: Spoke Aug 10 2019, 08:52 AM

Here's a crude attempt to photoshop a black PCB on the driver side.



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Posted by: orthobiz Aug 10 2019, 09:05 AM

Great work, great thread.
Did I miss an updated picture of the light pattern with the final taping?

Paul

Posted by: Spoke Aug 10 2019, 09:33 AM

This set is for @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 . This set and mine will be the only ones with the discrete dc/dc converter running 500ma. All further foglights will use a dc/dc converter module running about 425ma.

Mark, do you want me to paint one of the bezel rings or are you going to send another set already painted/powder coated? I'll only need the bezel ring as the back side of the enclosure is not necessary to install the led boards.




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Posted by: Spoke Aug 10 2019, 09:35 AM

QUOTE(orthobiz @ Aug 10 2019, 11:05 AM) *

Great work, great thread.
Did I miss an updated picture of the light pattern with the final taping?

Paul



I haven't done a before and after with the tape. The tape does help with the upper light but does not completely cut it off. With such a small lens close to the LED it's hard to completely cut off the top of the light pattern. I'll get a before/after with Mark's set of lights.

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