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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ alternator options April 2019?

Posted by: dflesburg Apr 17 2019, 11:03 AM

What are the current alternator options for the type 4 these days, the 160amp guy seems to be no longer around.

I know a guy that created a new mount and put a gm alternator on his car.

Whats being done?

Posted by: malcolm2 Apr 17 2019, 11:31 AM

My 55 amp one went out last year. I did some research then and found the guy you are talking about. But he was too busy to "build" anymore. I kinda wanted to do the set-up myself, but he would not pass on his propriety smile.gif info. And they were way too expensive. My next thought was to get a 70 amp one that VW used on late 70's campers sent to the great white north. That also failed to develop an alternative. It seems there just were not very many campers sent to Canada.

But just last week a guy in Washington state found my WTB ad on TheSamba and sent me 2 pulleys with fans, pulled from 79 Canadian campers. IIRC this ALT does not use the elbow tube from the TIV cooling fan, so it needs a fan on the pulley. I also remember the need for a larger opening on the ALT front tin. It has been too long. I think I have some threads out there you could search by MALCOLM2.


I may look into it again, cause I am building a Bay Window bus that is gonna need an alternator.....

Posted by: Rob-O Apr 17 2019, 12:48 PM

I have a 100amp one wire GM alternator on my car. It doesn't allow for the use of the cooling tin in that area, which I don't like. But it works well. I'll see if I can snap a photo of the setup here in the next day or so.

Posted by: 914Sixer Apr 18 2019, 05:44 AM

Seller on Ebay has high output alternators.

Posted by: saigon71 Apr 18 2019, 12:44 PM

For stock I wonder if it's worth taking a chance on this one:

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-alternator/866988_100967_0#

Posted by: Bleyseng Apr 18 2019, 01:22 PM

QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Apr 17 2019, 10:31 AM) *

My 55 amp one went out last year. I did some research then and found the guy you are talking about. But he was too busy to "build" anymore. I kinda wanted to do the set-up myself, but he would not pass on his propriety smile.gif info. And they were way too expensive. My next thought was to get a 70 amp one that VW used on late 70's campers sent to the great white north. That also failed to develop an alternative. It seems there just were not very many campers sent to Canada.

But just last week a guy in Washington state found my WTB ad on TheSamba and sent me 2 pulleys with fans, pulled from 79 Canadian campers. IIRC this ALT does not use the elbow tube from the TIV cooling fan, so it needs a fan on the pulley. I also remember the need for a larger opening on the ALT front tin. It has been too long. I think I have some threads out there you could search by MALCOLM2.


I may look into it again, cause I am building a Bay Window bus that is gonna need an alternator.....


Yes, it does use a rubber boot from the fan shroud to the back of the Alt. It is different in that it's got a big round end to fit the big round inlet tube on the alt. Several VW places carry the special boot like Busdepot. I have one in my camper and tons of guys are searching for them as they are getting rare just like the fan pulley with the fan on it. Use the late bay Alt tin as it's got a bigger hole for em.

Posted by: malcolm2 Apr 18 2019, 01:46 PM

QUOTE(saigon71 @ Apr 18 2019, 01:44 PM) *

For stock I wonder if it's worth taking a chance on this one:

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-alternator/866988_100967_0#


I remember originally buying one from AZ. THat picture looks correct. But the one I bought in 2012 had a wonky rear edge. The tin on the rear did not fit correctly and would not seal.

That one looks different, it might work. Get one and see if all the tin fits and the studs on the back don't touch..... Life Time Warranty is nice tho. But the labor to remove is hell.

I do remember Cap'n Crusty reeming me a new one tho.... RIP Cap'n

Posted by: GregAmy Apr 18 2019, 02:06 PM

QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Apr 18 2019, 03:46 PM) *
That one looks different, it might work. Get one and see if all the tin fits and the studs on the back don't touch..... Life Time Warranty is nice tho. But the labor to remove is hell.


Bingo. I just did one a few weeks ago, and hated myself for it. I'd much rather pay extra for a known-good-quality one and avoid having to do it again.

I sent mine to some old guy in New Hampshire that apparently knows what he's doing, and paid him $120 to rebuild it. I don't want to do that job again...

Posted by: dralf May 18 2019, 12:50 PM

I am wondering if my Auto Zone unit is also on its' way out. Can anyone tell me how best to check its' performance without having to take it out and run it to Auto zone and tell me it is bad?

Posted by: IronHillRestorations May 18 2019, 01:06 PM

For stock, you might try NAPA. My local store can get Bosch remanufactured which have a good warranty.

I have several rebuilt stock alternators that I got from a rebuilder that closed shop. I sell those for $80 plus shipping, outright. TBH though I wouldn't use anything but the Bosch reman.

I've got one oddball that I was told to be 90 amp VW, I'll get a pic

Posted by: Spoke May 18 2019, 02:51 PM

QUOTE(dralf @ May 18 2019, 02:50 PM) *

I am wondering if my Auto Zone unit is also on its' way out. Can anyone tell me how best to check its' performance without having to take it out and run it to Auto zone and tell me it is bad?


Start the car and elevate the idle to about 2k RPM.

Measure:

Battery + to chassis - should be 14V

On the plug to the VR, measure:

V+ to chassis - should be 14V
VF to chassis - should be 3-6V
V- to chassis - should be 0.0V


Repeat the same measurements with the headlights on.

The battery voltage may be 13 to 14V during these tests.

Posted by: jim_hoyland May 19 2019, 06:47 AM

QUOTE(Spoke @ May 18 2019, 01:51 PM) *

QUOTE(dralf @ May 18 2019, 02:50 PM) *

I am wondering if my Auto Zone unit is also on its' way out. Can anyone tell me how best to check its' performance without having to take it out and run it to Auto zone and tell me it is bad?


Measure:

On the plug to the VR, measure:

V+ to chassis - should be 14V
VF to chassis - should be 3-6V
V- to chassis - should be 0.0V



Would you explain/show exactly how/where these measurements are made, I'd like to try this...I'm not familiar with all the connections outside the plug from the alt to the relay board

Posted by: Spoke May 19 2019, 07:25 AM

QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ May 19 2019, 08:47 AM) *

QUOTE(Spoke @ May 18 2019, 01:51 PM) *

QUOTE(dralf @ May 18 2019, 02:50 PM) *

I am wondering if my Auto Zone unit is also on its' way out. Can anyone tell me how best to check its' performance without having to take it out and run it to Auto zone and tell me it is bad?


Measure:

On the plug to the VR, measure:

V+ to chassis - should be 14V
VF to chassis - should be 3-6V
V- to chassis - should be 0.0V



Would you explain/show exactly how/where these measurements are made, I'd like to try this...I'm not familiar with all the connections outside the plug from the alt to the relay board


On the plug from the alternator to the VR on the relay board, the 3 wires can be seen looking into the plug. Measuring DC volts, put the positive DMM lead on one of the pins and the negative DMM lead on the chassis ground lug which can be found right behind the relay board.

Posted by: cary May 19 2019, 07:55 AM

Attached Image

Left side engine tin, going to relay board.

Posted by: jim_hoyland May 19 2019, 12:39 PM

Is the above test done with engine running; Any problem unplugging the alt harness if engines running ?

Posted by: Spoke May 19 2019, 01:06 PM

QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ May 19 2019, 02:39 PM) *

Is the above test done with engine running; Any problem unplugging the alt harness if engines running ?


Yes, engine running at about 2k RPM. I would advise against unplugging the alt harness while the engine is running. If you want to change VRs, stop the engine, replace and restart.

Posted by: IronHillRestorations May 24 2019, 03:30 PM

This is the oddball Bosch alternator I have


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image Attached Image

Posted by: mb911 May 24 2019, 04:17 PM

Could a 944 style unit be adapted?

Posted by: Bleyseng May 24 2019, 06:34 PM

QUOTE(IronHillRestorations @ May 24 2019, 02:30 PM) *

This is the oddball Bosch alternator I have


Thats the Canadian or Cold weather Baywindow 70amp alt. I have one in my Westy. To fit it in a 914 you just need the special boot from BusDepot so it hooks up to the fan. Came with the pulley that has a fan on it but those are around too.

Posted by: IronHillRestorations May 25 2019, 06:55 AM

QUOTE(Bleyseng @ May 24 2019, 04:34 PM) *

QUOTE(IronHillRestorations @ May 24 2019, 02:30 PM) *

This is the oddball Bosch alternator I have


Thats the Canadian or Cold weather Baywindow 70amp alt. I have one in my Westy. To fit it in a 914 you just need the special boot from BusDepot so it hooks up to the fan. Came with the pulley that has a fan on it but those are around too.


Thanks for ID'ing that Geoff!

Posted by: malcolm2 May 25 2019, 08:10 AM

QUOTE(Bleyseng @ May 24 2019, 07:34 PM) *

QUOTE(IronHillRestorations @ May 24 2019, 02:30 PM) *

This is the oddball Bosch alternator I have


Thats the Canadian or Cold weather Baywindow 70amp alt. I have one in my Westy. To fit it in a 914 you just need the special boot from BusDepot so it hooks up to the fan. Came with the pulley that has a fan on it but those are around too.


I put a WTB ad on the samba for the fan. Took a year, but some dude in Oregon had some. I bought 2. I decided to put my ALT upgrade on hold. I had a spare 50 amp one and I wanted to drive...

I figured maybe you could use a GM fan on the 70 amp ALT, but never got that far. FLAPS has fans.

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