More amateur help please, this time with CV joint and front suspension:
1) I've only taken apart one axle, but I found some pitting on one of the outside bearing. Pictured is the worse example:
Can I address this by swapping the transmission end for the wheel end? I notice they ride in slightly different locations.
2) Having much trouble taking apart the front suspension.
a) Can I just use a fork to pry this off or do I need a puller/pusher device? I have neither so trying to avoid buying both. Soaking in PB Blaster now. Boot is already torn so a fork would do no damage, just looking for the easiest way.
b) According to the Haines Manual the bolt/pin shown is suppose to come out to release the ball joint (held in by a semi-circle feature?). Mine looks like it is permanently attached to the strut. How do I get it out?
3) When removing the control arms do the adjusters need to be wound loose? Can the cross support bar be left in place?
Yes you can use a fork. Put the nut back on the bolt and whack it with a hammer. It will loosen.
1) You can but it is only a temporary solution at best. The problem is finding replacement CV joints. See other treads on this site for details.
2)
A. Do Not Pry. Ideal case is use a tie rod puller - actually pretty cheap to buy or often available to rent at AutoZone, PepBoys, NAPA, etc.
Alternative is to soak it in liquid wrench - wait for this to work to loosen any surface rust. Then use two hammers. One heavy hammer and a lighter ball peen hammer. Use the heavy one to hold steady behind the cast iron knuckle. Use the lighter one to whack the cast iron knuckle (several times). This will usually free the tie rod end from the knuckle.
B. There is a wedge shaped taper pin there. It needs to be soaked in liquid wrench. Then drive out with a soft faced hammer or brass drift to release the ball joint.
In either case A or B, a little heat helps but you have to be very careful not to melt or burn the rubber boots if you are planning to reuse them. Don't overheat the strut either - the cartridge has oil in it that will be degraded by high heat.
3) You can wind them loose but likely the torsion bar splines are corroded into the caps. More liquid wrench. More heat at ends being careful since bushings are rubber - no heat if you plan to reuse the A-arm bushings. Lots of wiggling back & forth, Lots of hammering with soft dead blow hammer. More swearing. Cross bar can be left in place.
Others may have more elegant methods but these have worked for me over the years.
For item #2, I'll second Superhawk - use a tie rod puller. Not expensive, or you can do the AutoZone loaner tool (I have, then bought one). Works like a charm.
Thanks.
2a) Followed your advice and went to Autozone. This is the tool I used. Both Pitman style pullers were too large. Lucky Autozone is close to my house. What a bang when it let loose.
2b) Just want to make sure this pin is to come out. I'm soaking in PB Blaster. What tools have others used to drive this pin out?
I hate the fork tool as they tend to destroy the rubber boot...ok if you are replacing the ball joints.
Proper ball joint removal tools are the way to go as mentioned,I have a Sykes one made in the UK ,wind it up tight and strike each side of the arm together with 2 hammers for the tight ones ,forget penetrating lube as it won't do squat on tapers.
Yes last resort is to use some heat on the steering arm with a butane torch .
If you are reusing the ball joints refit the nut so you don't mushroom the thread with a ball joint tool when removing.
When refitting new or good used ones hit them in to the taper with a brass or hard nylon face hammer so they don't turn when refitting the nuts.
CV joints ...any galling or chipped hardening on the races and balls involves moving to the nearest rubbish tin with the effected parts,don't for a minute think they will be ok,years worked on front drive VW Golfs taught me this ,no different in this situation.
What is the proper tool for removing the pin attaching the strut to the A-arm ball joint?
Picture would be great
Do most just replace the ball joint? My boot is still solid, but is that the only criteria?
I bought a pair of 911 struts super cheap because someone cut the ball joint shaft off with a saws-all and left the shaft stuck in the bottom of the strut. Took the struts into our shop and had a guy weld a big nut to the cut shaft. Clamped the nut in a vise and twisted the strut. Shaft popped out in 2 seconds. Welding the nut on heated everything up. So if you run into trouble, remember heat is your friend.
Tangerine Racing has CV joints. If 3 of yours are good, just get one. He takes Type 1 joints and makes the work. Adds an o-ring. Thing I found was that his Boot cover plate has 6 holes.... we only need 4. So I plugged up 2.
More heat and I got the ball joint pins out. Kind of a strange non-symmetrical taper.
Thanks for everyone's support; kept me hammering and heating away.
So a couple more questions:
1) I believe someone mentioned the torsion bar would likely be corroded in the cap(rear?). So is the recommended method to unbolt the front of the A-arm then more heat and hammering? Where is the best place to hammer on the A-arm so I won't break anything?
I haven't tried to remove the A-arm yet for lack of a long enough allen to get inside the front cover.
2) Do torsion bars "sag" like coil springs? I have 100 lb springs and Bilsteins in the rear and plan on using Bilstein inserts in the front. Is it recommended to replace the torsion bars too (even if there's no visible damage)?
Nice job. You’re on your way!
Usually, you only need to replace torsion bars if they are heavily corroded or worn a grove in the rod when the bushing fails. You do need to maintain the same sides as they started.
Spray down the thread end. Smack the othe side, while wet, with a large drift. It will help with breaking the rust bond inside the bolt hole. A pointed bit in an air chisel works well for getting the balljoint out of the arm. There's a dimple in the top. Aerokroil is a good penetrant also.
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