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Posted by: tvdinnerbythepool May 23 2019, 03:39 PM

Hey all,

Whilst the engine is out and I repair the hell hole, I’d like to re-seal the engine. Definitely leaking and making a mess in the garage as well as the cloud of smoke as it warms up and the HEs cook off the fresh drips.

I am new to the type IV and was wondering if you guys could give me a list of...
-what seals there are to be replaced?
-Order in which to replace?
-recommendations on kits or vendors for needed seals?

Thanks for the guidance! It’s greatly appreciated

Posted by: mark04usa May 23 2019, 03:58 PM

I resealed my '70 1.7 a couple of years ago. Plan to replace oil cooler seals and push rod tube seals with valve cover gaskets. On the top side, oil pressure switch is a common leaker. Good time to replace leaking trans seals as well.

Since your car is an early 1.7, be aware that it likely needs the smaller diameter push rod tube seals (on the cyl head end IIRC). It can be hard to find the correct push rod tube seals for early 1.7, and few of our parts suppliers are aware of the difference.

Posted by: rhodyguy May 23 2019, 04:21 PM

Go to Costco and get a package of paper towels. Gasket under oil fill tower, Under top of fill tower, new boot for oil pressure sending unit...while you're in there, new engine tin to chassis seals, clean the engine comp, treat battery area with some baking soda (mist with water first and sprinkle it with a kitchen strainer), treat surface rust, everything you might want to do will take 1/4 of the time with the engine out of the way.

Do you plan on removing the engine tin? The add on item list has a steep curve.

Posted by: ndfrigi May 23 2019, 04:56 PM

Maybe need new Rear main seal and also Oil pressure switch beside the above mentioned already.

Check 914rubber site and Pelican parts site.

Posted by: tvdinnerbythepool May 24 2019, 12:46 AM

Thanks guys, I'll pickup all the above. The tin is coming off mostly to clean debris and get a better idea of engine lay out. And it's missing a ton of screws anyways so I may just pop them all out.

Posted by: porschetub May 24 2019, 01:04 AM

Do the whole lot otherwise you will be rather disappointed ,with motor out you can clean it till it shines and improve cooling @ the same time,any seal or gasket not replaced will be a PITA later.
Good luck.

Posted by: Superhawk996 May 24 2019, 04:10 AM

Now is the time to do it all and do it right while you have easy access. Don't forget to do the front crank seal that is behind the fan. I've been wrenching on cars for a very, very long time now. Eventually you learn that it IS just quicker to do it right the first time.

I say that not that I'm perfect or even follow my own advice. If you've seen my thread, I've shared recent experiences where I tired to shortcut. It bit me in the just like it always does.

Posted by: bbrock May 24 2019, 07:37 AM

According to others here on the forums, you want Sabo brand for the rear main seal. with doing them all. Not difficult or terribly expensive with the engine out.

Posted by: rhodyguy May 24 2019, 08:25 AM

If the rear main area is dry, why mess with it? Then the flywheel comes in to play. When you're at Costco see if they have the jugs of 'Oil Eater'. Put it in a spray bottle from the dollar store. Use full strength. Skip the brake cleaner. You don't need a respirator with the OE. Your garage won't stink.

Posted by: 914werke May 24 2019, 11:09 AM

...because if you have the engine out, (and dont know the history of the mtr.) you might as well check & if necessary correct, end play.

Posted by: IronHillRestorations May 24 2019, 11:45 AM

I'd 2nd leaving the RMS alone if it's not leaking. Oil cooler seals, push rod tube seals, epoxy the oil gallery plugs at the front of the engine. If you've got the flywheel off then do the ones at the back too, but don't take off the flywheel if you don't have to.

Posted by: injunmort May 24 2019, 12:19 PM

and why would you not remove flywheel and change seal while engine is out? please, do tell. with the engine out, I would get a reinz engine gasket kit, front and rear main seals, sump plate/screen and change all. infinitely easier doing oil seals pushrod tubes, f&r main seals while engine out. also good opportunity to examine flywheel/clutch, throwout bearing, bearing bushes and a good clean. and if you are feeling really nutty, examine shifter rod bushings as well, replace if needed.

Posted by: rhodyguy May 24 2019, 01:45 PM

Figure out the deal with the bolts, figure out the stacking requirements for the shims, buy a dial indicator and figure out how to use it, buy a FW lock. Might as well send the flywheel out for machining (hopefully in spec when finish) just replace everything...why not buy a set of appropriate 96mm Pistons/cyl/rings and put those on while the engine is out? Oh, send the heads out for a refresh. remove and tap the rear galley plugs. One has to stop adding on. Overwhelming for a newer owner or one with limited skills. Don't forget to refurb the shifter itself. Those pesky detention plates. Hopefully the plate has not worn into the lever.

However, I would do the lube for the gear box while removed.

Posted by: injunmort May 24 2019, 02:29 PM

ok, well you are a dumbass rhodyguy. no one said, rebuild engine, just reseal. you might like doing things twice, I prefer doing them right the first time. shimming crank, done when building not changing seals. jb weld works fine on galley plugs if not loose and leaking. got engine out without trouble, i'm guessing can clean and change gaskets. no point being this far and putting a leaking broken bushing grinding engine back in. well, maybe for you, that makes sense.

Posted by: Superhawk996 May 24 2019, 03:11 PM

Posted by: rhodyguy May 24 2019, 06:54 PM

You asked me to tell you. Your wish was granted. You might be a little more thankful.

Posted by: tvdinnerbythepool Jun 21 2019, 09:01 PM

Almost done with the re-seal and hell hole project. Yikes! What a month


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Posted by: bbrock Jun 21 2019, 11:40 PM

Nice work!

Posted by: rhodyguy Jun 22 2019, 11:12 AM

Very nice!