The plastic roller for the spring rod of the rear trunk lid hinge looks like it’s about to come off of the shaft. What techniques do folks use for releasing the tension of the spring? Is it then just a matter of pushing the roller further onto the shaft and putting the spring back in place?
Thanks,
Mike
Not sure about pushing it back on. I will tell you those spring rods hold a ton of tension and several people have hurt themselves trying to release them w/o knowing how. Before you touch that, please read some threads on it. Many have posted how they do it so they do not injure themselves or damage the car.
Might just be the camera or the center of the roller is worn out, but the post looks bent.
At any rate I'd find a how to thread and replace the roller.
Go to the other end of that torsion bar and tap it across the car to move the wheel
further onto the shaft.
You may have to work it on from one side then the other.
Also, with the hood off the hinge moves outward.
I’d check to make sure your hinge pivot mount is in good shape.
Looks like the base hinge is separated from the wall.
Thanks for the replies. I’m still looking for a good and safe way to relieve the tension on the spring so I can assess the situation and make any necessary repairs. I did a forum search but didn’t see a valid post. I heard at one point there was a tool available. Anyone know of one and a source?
Thanks,
Mike
That's an original customs tool McMark Makes them too
I cringe every time one of these trunk torsion bar threads pops up. I keep waiting for someone to lose a finger...or worse. I'm a damned lucky example (it was close).
I second that it looks way out of place and the inner fender pivot point may be torn. Look underneath and ensure both of these are solidly mounted to the sides; it's very common for them to be torn:
I saved the image of how to construct a tool from a 1" x 12" strip of 1/4" plate steel. The North Coast Jim special.
I've always dreaded the thought of having to put the torsion bars back in place on my project when the time comes, and this seems like a good plan.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=303620&st=0&p=2448364&#entry2448364
Forget the torsion bars, save your fingers, hinge plate, and sanity and go with the cheap & safe trunk shock kit.
http://camp914.com/products.html
-1 on the rear struts, I won't put those on any 914.
Fix the hinge cup and keep the shoulder bolt lubricated, or do the shoulder bolt mod. It's worked for 40+ years, and needs repair. Yes, there's a dangerous amount of tension on those springs, but if you get a good tool it's not that troublesome.
Something looks off, hard tell what from the photo. I use a crescent wrench and socket to take the load off. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=39320
This has worked for me. Be very careful and get someone mechanically inclined to help.
When the lid is not on the car that arm wants to push outward which makes the pin where the roller rides tilt up slightly. When you push inward and have the lid bolted on does it go to the correct orientation?
I do not believe it is a hate. I just believe there may be a preference for keeping the original pivot and plastic roller in place. I would fix it correctly with the stock parts and likely never have to deal with it again.
I just see the struts as an unnecessary modification for the sake of a modification. Believe me, I have made a few mods on my car, so I am not a "purist" but I believe the original design worked well and really only fail when not properly maintained.
Now if you have a car that is far from stock and the trunk rods were removed in the pursuit of space savings, then use the struts and never look back.
To each their own - I found Craig's strut kit to be super easy to install and doesn't create any access issues whatsoever for me. I do get that not everyone wants to drill their trunk.
Dealing with those torsion bars was not pleasant, even with the proper tool. I tried reinstalling them after fixing my hinge plate - but my opinion was that they put WAY too much force on the repaired hinge and that it was just a matter of time before it ripped loose again. Perhaps others have had better experiences. JMHO.
I have a phobia of strut-supported lids. Years ago I had an 87 cavalier station wagon. The rear hatch on it was supported by a strut on each side from the factory, and somehow, not sure if it was beforehand or what, but one of them cracked where the end went around a sort of ball pivot, and the strut came off. With only 1 strut holding it, it seemed like the hatch all but free fell and cracked me in the head, knocked me to the ground, I had to go to the hospital and get stitches. It was funny that it was halloween, and I was dressed as a girl. at least some of the impact was cushioned by the wig... the nurses got a laugh though, me and my makeup, big ass bleeding bump on my head, I'll never forget that.
A tool can easily be made. I put a notch in an old crescent wrench and it worked just fine.
If the grill is removed you can use a deep socket and wrench. Ghetto, but works.
We've pretty clearly got two competing worldviews here.
I like torsion bars very much... in my front suspension and those teeny little ones on the engine lid. In the trunk, I'll take the struts.
I don't have to wear welding gloves and a face shield and make sure my term life insurance is paid up when I need to change out a strut. Also - there are 2 struts - so the odds of the trunk suddenly falling due to a failed strut seems not very likely. I have - however - had body damage on other cars due to strut failure so I'm not saying it can't happen () but more that I'll take my chances with my new, perfectly operable, perfectly fitting strut kit.
As for weight - doubt the Camp kit weighs more than a pound. Torsion bars, rollers, etc don't weigh much but it's not zero, either. My car has BBBs, so the struts aren't what's killing my 1/4 times...
Sorry - should have been more specific.
On the Lotus, I was referring to the Elise which is weighing in around 2041 lbs that has a simple prop rod.
On the Miata I had the early cars in mind which are closer to 914 weight.
1991 Miata - 2100 lbs
2019 Miata - 2345 lbs - oink oink (lol! - I love Miata's for the record)
Lotus Evora with those gas lift struts is a portly 3100 lbs or so. Still an awesome car but it has more than 95HP too!
The broader point was that to get a production automobile down to 914 type weight every pound matters and back when these cars were engineered, gas struts really weren't a viable option. For me, I simply prefer to try to stay close to the original intent of these cars.
As always, there are very few absolutes in life. To each his own
For me it's simplicity, but the bottom line is that it's your car do what you want.
Not everyone can weld in a new hinge cup, and the tension on those springs is intimidating.
I just don't like the interference with putting in the roof, and cutting the car.
First time I dismantled a trunk spring I had no idea the kind of tension that sucker had going on. When I took one of the brackets off (still sprung), it didn't pop off right away but wedged itself against the bolts. So the unedumicated me decided (thankfully) to get a long screw driver to pry it off at a distance. Lucky for me, I took a glancing blow to the pointy finger in the open air and only lost a fingernail. But I heard a whistle as the bracket flew past my face like a bullet. They are seriously dangerous folks.
I've got the new pivot hinge and shocks for mine now.
Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)