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Posted by: rbzymek Jun 24 2019, 12:21 PM

So i need to replace the 1.8 and I would really like a 2056. I also want to keep the L-Jet for the great driveability. If I request SCAT to build a 2056 with a normal 2.0L cam will that work with L-Jet? As an alternate should I just buy a 2.0L with FI cam? Since I will be using a vane meter system I would expect that I can dial in the AFR with my wide band meter. Has anyone done that before?
Ray

Posted by: Tdskip Jun 24 2019, 01:02 PM

Certainly get advice here but I’d not hesitate to pick up the phone and call them. I’m sure that other people have asked this seem quite reasonable/intelligent question and they have a point of view.

You could always have one of the well regarded engine builders here build you whatever you wanted, it’s another good option to keep in mind.

Posted by: 914Sixer Jun 24 2019, 01:29 PM

76 912E was a 2.0L with L-Jet. 2.0L VW Bus also used L-Jet. I would think there is information on the VW Bus side that would have answers for you. Look around the forums over on theSamba.com

Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 24 2019, 01:53 PM

I've built a 2056 Ljet, but it had 2.0 914 heads and a WEB #73 cam.
Ran great

Posted by: Bleyseng Jun 24 2019, 01:57 PM

I am running a Raby 9550 (a Web 73 basically) and Len Hoffman heads with Ljet in my 77 Westy. Yeah, easy to adjust the AFR so yes its a no brainer.

Posted by: rbzymek Jun 24 2019, 02:22 PM

Thanks for the feedback and advice on which cam to use which was my biggest concern. I am open to more comments if they are out there.
Ray

Posted by: rbzymek Jun 24 2019, 02:31 PM

By the way, besides SCAT, where should I look for a 2056 long block and Web 73 cam? I prefer to have an expert do the engine internals. The engine pull and replace will be enough work for me.

Posted by: thelogo Jun 24 2019, 09:01 PM

Can i ask why the scat longblock instead of
Rebuild your 1.8 ?

Including all the original Ljet stuff. And you have the perfect compatibility

Of course using bigger p's and c's and head work if you want . 1911? +

Posted by: djway Jun 25 2019, 01:14 AM

The car I drive was all messed up and someone had been inside the AFM to compensate for other issues.
I made an attachment for the exhaust tip then ran up and down the freeway, pull off and adjust the tension, got back on until I got the mix right.
It works.

Posted by: sixnotfour Jun 25 2019, 01:27 AM

Original Customs..MI.. http://www.originalcustoms.com/index.php
Tangerine Racing.. CT. http://www.tangerineracing.com/contact_us.htm

Posted by: saigon71 Jun 25 2019, 05:22 AM

Another cam option for stock FI is the FAT 440MP. Slighltly more aggressive than stock.

Posted by: rbzymek Jun 25 2019, 05:35 AM

It went seriously overtemp last week before I noticed the temp gauge. I adjusted the AFR at cruise to 14 and it may have had a stuck vane/thermostat. I will do a compression check tonight but I think I lost one cylinder.The SCAT 2056 for around $3600 looks hard to beat unless you know a better way. I need more cc's and a higher compression ratio to improve the 76 HP with the 1.8. Perhaps I need to investigate the 1911 option and price it out. I am concerned that the heads are toast but maybe not. Suggestions are welcome. Thanks.
Ray

Posted by: rbzymek Jun 25 2019, 03:50 PM

So I reached into the fan and pulled out a plastic grocery bag.....the reason it went overtemp in the first place. Compression is 88-95-95-105, not great. Next change the oil and spark plugs to see if it will run decently.
Ray

Posted by: thelogo Jun 25 2019, 07:09 PM

Are you for real a plastic bag

?

Posted by: Tdskip Jun 26 2019, 06:12 AM

That is a bummer. It sounds like the engine is tired at this point. It’s certainly easy to have a fresh engine show up and just put the ancillaries on and off you go. You can always try selling your engine as a core to offset some of the cost.

I may be wrong, but it sounds to me like you want to buy a rebuilt engine from them so why not just do it?

Posted by: rbzymek Jun 26 2019, 07:24 AM

That's probably what I will do. I do have some other things going on plus I would like to drive the car this summer a bit if that is possible. Thanks for the cpre suggestion. I forgot to account for that.
Ray

Posted by: JOEPROPER Jun 26 2019, 07:55 AM

Buy the motor and put it in. should take a weekend. You can drive it to the BBQ on 4th of July.

Posted by: rbzymek Jun 26 2019, 09:14 AM

Well there is a five week lead time so I will be a little late for the Barby. I will need to get some 2.0L tin and new intake runners as well. I also want to change the master cylinder and put in SS fuel lines at the same time. Probably in August......Thanks.

Posted by: 914werke Jun 26 2019, 09:32 AM

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=89786&view=findpost&p=2079712 is one that will get you going before the 4th

Posted by: thelogo Jun 26 2019, 09:56 AM

If im reading it right and like to think i am

Your letting it go for 5k or 10k

And where are you located

Cause this is a steal (unless your located in syberia)

Posted by: 914werke Jun 26 2019, 10:07 AM

Its the Eng. pkg that Mark/Jake kicked off waaayyy back when. Its been sitting warm & dry, as new, in my shop waiting. But like so many projects, things change. $5k

Posted by: thelogo Jun 26 2019, 10:39 AM

Where is your shop ? Or motor located

If you dont need a /6. This is the ticket imho

Posted by: Tdskip Jun 26 2019, 11:20 AM

Was $10 now $5K?

Looks like, net-net, about $2,500 more than the SCAT rebuild but you get a lot.

Posted by: rbzymek Jun 26 2019, 12:01 PM

PM sent.

Posted by: rbzymek Jul 10 2019, 12:43 PM

[quote name='rbzymek' date='Jun 26 2019, 12:01 PM' post='2725679']
[quote name='Tdskip' post='2725670' date='Jun 26 2019, 11:20 AM']
Was $10 now $5K?

Looks like, net-net, about $2,500 more than the SCAT rebuild but you get a lot.
[/quote]


Yup, placed the order for the SCAT 2056 long block with new heads and WEB#73 cam. Already have the new intake runners but I need some new tin for the 2.0 heads.