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Posted by: mountainroads Sep 3 2019, 08:58 AM

with the engine installed? Instructions and videos I've seen all show how to do the job with the engine removed. Presumably, during an engine rebuild or car restoration. Does it help to remove the sheet metal? -6, if it matters. Thanks in advance.

- MR

Posted by: Mikey914 Sep 3 2019, 09:11 AM

Engine installed difficulty level 10+, with engine removed 3-4.

Posted by: EdwardBlume Sep 3 2019, 09:13 AM

You want to get in there, especially if you have nice paint and don’t want to use a screwdriver.

Posted by: IronHillRestorations Sep 3 2019, 09:15 AM

I wouldn't try it with the engine installed. I don't even know if it's possible. If you brought your car to me to do that job, you'd be paying for an engine R&R.

Posted by: JOEPROPER Sep 3 2019, 09:39 AM

I think it would be really difficult to replace the seals with the engine installed. I just replaced mine with the engine out and it wasn't easy.

Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Sep 3 2019, 11:17 AM

engine removed, and silicone grease is your friend

Posted by: rhodyguy Sep 3 2019, 12:10 PM

Or glycerin for the lubricant. Working in an empty engine bay is easier than standing with your head in the hole for hours.

Posted by: porschetub Sep 3 2019, 02:27 PM

,takes a bit to get them right,I had new paint so that made it harder.

Posted by: Mikey914 Sep 3 2019, 02:30 PM

With new paint DO NOT use any silicone products.

Posted by: mountainroads Sep 7 2019, 10:20 PM

Thanks for all the input/responses. I'm not thrilled by the consensus answer(s), but you guys have waaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyy more experience than I, so I grudgingly accept this will likely be an engine out proposition. The oil temp never got anywhere concerning during the last spirited drive, but the engine bay sure felt warm after I stopped the car and it sat for a few minutes. I also had bit of a challenge getting the car going again after it sat for a few, which I'm attributing to vapor lock (thought I heard bubbling in the carbs. Grrrr...). First time for that, and I didn't like it.

So, I wonder how much of a contributing factor the worn seals are, since you can see past them? The real pisser is both the mechanic and the body guy had ample opportunity to say: "Hey, while the engines out, we think it would be smart to replace these worn seals". All the other rubber got replaced. Not a peep about these. "Experts" are supposed to know this stuff. I can screw up just fine by myself without engaging the services of a pro.

- MR

Posted by: mepstein Sep 8 2019, 05:05 AM

I’ve never really seen the engine seals “wear”. I’ve purchased more than 20 - 914’s. Most are just hard.
Are you sure the engine is sitting correctly?
I would ad oil and head temp gauges.

Posted by: IronHillRestorations Sep 8 2019, 08:01 AM

There's a water soluble jelly that works good with rubber parts, has no silicones, and is safe.

Posted by: dangrouche Sep 8 2019, 10:02 AM

this youtuber did it with engine out;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EVkFtQxOoTY

I personally was too lazy to R&R motor but was able to change out 3 of the four required seals with the motor in place. my channels were dry and rust free. a few paint scratches does not bother me. The last one I need to swap out is at the firewall, which will be changed out when the motor does come out.

Posted by: mountainroads Sep 8 2019, 03:44 PM

"old and worn out" would've been a better description. Good question, but pretty sure the engine is sitting correctly. (Engine tin is in line with bay panels, etc.) I'm relatively certain it's simply a function of 50-yo rubber living in a hostile environment. The seals look narrower than what I'd expect. I'll try to take some pics next time I'm around the car.

Thanks.

- MR