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Posted by: partwerks Sep 8 2019, 05:21 PM

From my trans to my wheels, my axles go uphill at a 10 degree slope. Is that too much?

They angle forward a bit also, but it don't appear to be that much.

Posted by: bdstone914 Sep 9 2019, 05:31 AM

That rear end must be sitting very low. Badly gagged springs?

Posted by: 914Sixer Sep 9 2019, 05:56 AM

Looks like aftermarket springs with spacer blocks.

Posted by: partwerks Sep 9 2019, 06:04 AM

So maybe need new springs?

Posted by: bdstone914 Sep 9 2019, 06:34 AM

Hard to say. How does the car sit ? Cant see that much. What kind of shocks? They might be Bilstein with adjustable perches. If so adjust them upward. I dont see spacer blocks. Can you take a good picture with the flash on to show the spring?

Posted by: wndsrfr Sep 9 2019, 06:35 AM

Check to see if there's another notch to push the perch up another inch....

Posted by: Andyrew Sep 9 2019, 09:17 AM

Can we see some pics of your trans mount and the spacer block on the trans side?

The v8 conversions move the trans back 1.5" and your forward to back looks good. The angle from the squat could be because the bolts arent tight enough and therefore the transmission is hanging down or the back is simply too low. which judging from the angle of the trailing arm is not the case.


Lets see a profile of the car as it sits.

Posted by: SirAndy Sep 9 2019, 10:16 AM

Actually looks like the transmission is much lower with that conversion.
The problem is that with an angle like that at rest, it's only going to get worse under load.

I'd be worried about the CVs falling apart if you put some serious power through them.

Posted by: Andyrew Sep 9 2019, 10:19 AM

Ya I think the trans is falling off the hangers. Pretty common on the V8 conversions.

Most conversions put the trans in the stock location just moved back.

Posted by: partwerks Sep 9 2019, 05:23 PM

Maintenace guy at work, and I made a new trans mount on the back to replace the one the mechanic made that was too weak, and one side broke.
I think he reused the old Subie WRX engine bar. The adapter plate I had made at kitcarchassis.com.

Hopefully pictures will help.

Posted by: SirAndy Sep 9 2019, 05:29 PM

Your transmission should be a good 2" higher in the chassis, there's plenty of room above.

Posted by: SirAndy Sep 9 2019, 05:32 PM

Also, why are your adjustable shocks all the way up?

How short are those springs? They better be tiny ...

Posted by: partwerks Sep 9 2019, 05:36 PM

Probably cuz when ya pay someone to work on it, I would expect them to know more about it than me, but from lots of things I seen. That wasn't always the case.

Are they suppose to be in a different position.

Posted by: SirAndy Sep 9 2019, 06:21 PM

Those springs look waaaay too short, which is why the threaded collar is located on top of the highest groove and then the spring perch is on top of the collar.

I wouldn't be surprised if the part of the collar where the perch sits right now is actually above the shock body and thus has limited support.

Hopefully that's just the angle of the picture though ...

Posted by: partwerks Sep 9 2019, 07:14 PM

Posted by: BIGKAT_83 Sep 9 2019, 07:22 PM

Its going to be real low when those rear mounts pull thru. They need the factory washer on the top side of the bolt.

Posted by: partwerks Sep 9 2019, 07:27 PM

I just have smaller flat washers on the upper trans mounts, and so are you saying that I need washers with a bigger outside diameter so that it doesn't sag?

Posted by: BIGKAT_83 Sep 9 2019, 08:03 PM

This is what you need on the top of mount.


This won't do any thing for your "sag" the way it is now if the rubber broke your whole engine and transaxle would fall out.

Fix this before you drive the car

Posted by: partwerks Sep 9 2019, 08:07 PM

Do I need the round one also, or just the rectangular one on top?

Posted by: partwerks Sep 10 2019, 06:06 PM

Would there be some kind of adjustment to allow the trans to be moved up higher, or how does that work with it being attached to the adapter plate. I had it made at kitcarchassis.com

Posted by: Andyrew Sep 10 2019, 07:53 PM

It's one piece.

Posted by: euro911 Sep 10 2019, 08:35 PM

This is what it should look like

Posted by: partwerks Sep 11 2019, 08:30 PM

Not sure how to do that with it being tied into the adapter plate?

Posted by: euro911 Sep 11 2019, 11:09 PM

I just noticed you're not running a 901 trans ... I see your dilemma now

Posted by: partwerks Sep 12 2019, 06:05 AM

I wonder if the adapter plate could be made with an offset, so it could come up higher?

Posted by: Andyrew Sep 12 2019, 09:02 AM

Input shaft on the trans can't move in relation to the position of the engine, so no.

The steel plate mounting the trans to the trans mounts could be bent to raise the back of the trans...

How low is your car? Raising up the rear would be the easiest option.

Posted by: euro911 Sep 12 2019, 01:57 PM

Something else just came to mind ... I'm wondering if you'll need to shorten the axles once you raise the trans upward

What happens when you lift the car? ... is there any binding on the axles when the trailing arms move downward?

Posted by: partwerks Sep 13 2019, 08:51 AM

I haven't checked, but custom axles were made for it.
I have a Craig Davies remote WP, and wonder if the engine could still be moved ahead a tweek, then maybe could raise it up some? Right now the back is about a thumb's width at the back of the engine bay, towards the top from hitting. I would imagine if I was able to move the trans up, to some degree, I would have to take some off the length of the axles.

Posted by: euro911 Sep 13 2019, 12:40 PM

Possibly.

Hard to tell how much 'wiggle room' you've got from the pic angles we're seeing. How much room is there between the sides of the trans in relation to the mounting points?

Also, measure the clearance above the trans to determine how much it can move up.

See if something like this will work for you. Modify the existing bracket to lower the mounting points on each side of the trans while leaving enough clearance that the top of the trans doesn't hit the trunk floor.

Posted by: partwerks Sep 13 2019, 01:35 PM

Looks like at the top of that adapter plate, there would be at least 1 1/2"-1 3/4" it could go up yet. Just eyeballing it.

Got my top plates in for the mounts, but no difference than before, other than won't pull through.

Posted by: partwerks Sep 13 2019, 07:34 PM

These shocks and springs are at least 13 years old. I don't know how long before that, the previous owner had them, and so maybe it is time to change them out?

Posted by: Andyrew Sep 13 2019, 07:42 PM

Can we get a pic of the side of the car to see how low you are?

Posted by: partwerks Sep 13 2019, 07:53 PM

I will make a note of that for Saturday.

Posted by: partwerks Sep 15 2019, 05:47 PM

Posted by: Andyrew Sep 15 2019, 08:15 PM

It's low but I've seen lower. I say modify transmission mount.

Posted by: Krieger Sep 16 2019, 08:20 AM

I love that color!

Posted by: 76-914 Sep 16 2019, 09:20 AM

You can pick up another 2" if you delete the Porsche factory donut hanger at the trans and use the Subaru OEM trans support.

Posted by: partwerks Sep 16 2019, 06:20 PM

Thanks.
It was originally Green, but the previous owner had it black. This one replaced the 3.6 conversion I had stolen back in 2006, and so I had it painted a color I like.

Posted by: partwerks Sep 23 2019, 05:43 AM

Will putting on new springs help with the angle on the axles?

Posted by: Andyrew Sep 23 2019, 07:38 AM

Yes but it would raise your rear ride height.

How long have you had it setup like this? Have you ever blown an axle? It might be a case of don't fix what's not broken.... Sure it can be improved but at what cost...

Posted by: euro911 Sep 23 2019, 01:56 PM

The stance (ride height) of your car looks fine. I'd look into the original thought of raising the transaxle up a couple inches.

Posted by: partwerks Sep 23 2019, 07:18 PM

The back is 1" lower than the front, and that was measuring to the bottom of the fender lip.

There is room above the trans, but the top/back part of the engine is close to the back of the engine bay, or where the front of the trunk area would be. I think I might have a bit more room to move the engine ahead, and then I would probably have more clearance to move everything up together.

I was told: It is a little low. Those are Bilstein and they seldom go bad. New springs may be in order.

Posted by: euro911 Sep 23 2019, 09:15 PM

I think I have some spare ones you can have ... let me look for them. They don't look as bright and shiny as that one though


Also, not sure how long your springs are, but someone posted a couple pairs of 10" in the classifieds recently (good price too $45./pr shipped) ... http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=340742

Posted by: partwerks Sep 23 2019, 09:53 PM

It looks like you are near the end of adjustment. New springs with around 180# may be required if the car is too low in the rear. The front torsion bars may have been adjusted to match the rear ride height. When you are finished, the front should never be higher than rear.

Posted by: partwerks Sep 24 2019, 07:15 PM

I'm not sure how heavy of springs I would need for an LS3 engine, but 265lbs sounds awful heavy. I just drive it on the street, not race.

Also, when replacing the springs, does that have anything to do with the alignment on the trailing arms?

Posted by: euro911 Sep 25 2019, 05:16 PM

Certain things need to be identified. Is it an aluminum or cast iron block? Difference is about 100 lbs right there. Regardless, a complete LS3 is probably almost double of a stock Type-4 motor. I believe most guys with V8 conversions install higher weight springs, but I'll let them chime in on that.

The height of coil over springs is the most important issue. You have the capability to adjust the height with the set-up you have on there now.

You shouldn't need to adjust the trailing arms, but you might want to check the toe and camber anyway - and have aligned as needed.

Let me know if you want the trans mount plates ... it will entice me to put some diligence into looking for them

Posted by: partwerks Sep 25 2019, 06:44 PM

Got it on the hoist, for a few better pictures.

Posted by: euro911 Sep 25 2019, 07:51 PM

Can you shorten the upright sections of the trans mount to gain a couple inches of upward movement?

Posted by: partwerks Sep 25 2019, 08:12 PM

Can't go any further forward, or up. Belt pulley is close, and so is the top/back part of that black, whatever it's called, is about 3/8" from the back part of the engine bay.
I think Renegade used the LS6 he says in the video. 400 horse. Maybe I need to go down to a six instead of this 8 for more room??


Renegade Hybrids told me:
Unfortunately the adaptation and everything is completely different from the 5 speed to the 6 speed. The 6 speed transmission can be adapted to the LS3 but requires a completely new setup.
Everything that mounts the LS engine into the chassis should remain the same its just that adaptation to the transmission that needs to change, the transmission mounting, axles, ect.

Posted by: partwerks Sep 27 2019, 09:07 PM

Are you saying to cut the flat bars loose on top of the main bracket, and jack the trans up higher, and then reweld the flat bars?

Posted by: Mike Bellis Sep 27 2019, 10:33 PM

Based on what I see, you have a compound angle like I had. With my Boxster tranny my axle stubbs would "walk" out after 150 miles. The car would have no forward or reverse motion until the stub was hammered back into the tranny.

The stubs are held in with a $1 circlip (Porsche Dealer). They did not have enough tension to hold back against the tug from the suspension movement. You can try an O ring, thin one under the circlip.

In my case I realigned the the drivertrain to shift everything forward until it aligned straight but remained lowered. No more problems.

Not sure which Boxster tranny you have or if your stubs are held in the same. Unbolt the CV and see if there is a big bolt head under it. If not, yours are held in by the same circlip.

Posted by: partwerks Sep 27 2019, 10:39 PM

I have the 5 speed Boxster trans.

He had the custom axles and parts made at driveshaftshop.com

Posted by: Mike Bellis Sep 27 2019, 10:41 PM

Drive it a few hundred miles and check to see if the stub is working its way out.

Posted by: euro911 Sep 28 2019, 03:59 AM

In looking at how high the transaxle already sits in the bracket, it appears that it may not be possible to section it. You'll need to take the stock upper washer plates into consideration too - (I think they're approx 1/2" thick). If those rubber mounts crack and fail and you don't have those plates in place, your transaxle could fall.

I'm also wondering if a different rubber mount could be fabricated, and located UNDER the 'flat bars' (instead of above)? ... looks like you could gain an inch or so there

If you're planning on raising the rear suspension (as you mentioned earlier) with taller springs, you'll gain even more equality between the center-line of the trans output shafts and the center-line at the wheel hubs. That should straighten out the axle angles enough to cause a lot less wear & tear on the CVs.

Posted by: partwerks Sep 28 2019, 08:11 AM

Not sure how heavy of springs are in there, but wonder how heavy I need for the LS3 engine, 180lb?
Sounds like 180lb are shorter than stock?
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/100710-180-lb-inch-rear-springs-need-details.html

I have the mounting plates on top now.

I'm not sure how I could move the trans forward any?

Posted by: euro911 Sep 28 2019, 11:50 AM

Posted by: ClayPerrine Sep 28 2019, 08:04 PM

I would be worried about the cantilevered nature of that bracket. Hanging out on the end of that flat bar is a recipe for metal fatigue and eventual failure. It is absorbing all of the torque of the engine in one direction, then the engine braking in the other direction, and the load of the rear of the tranny bouncing up and down. Eventually they are going to break due to metal fatigue. I spent a lot of time discussing this very subject with Aaron (my machinist at Zims). We ended up making a mount that wraps around the back of the transmission and triangulates with two side mount points.

Here's a picture of my 914 with a Cayman 6 speed G86-21 trans.





You can see how it was built to prevent the flex in the mount. And I am less that 1/2 from the chassis transmission crossmember.

Just my $.02.

Posted by: euro911 Sep 29 2019, 02:57 PM

Wow, well thought-out design, Clay.

Posted by: jimkelly Oct 5 2019, 07:10 PM

enjoyed your pics. thanks.