OK guys. I thought I had grasp on the air corrector jet function, but my wideband is confusing me. Everything seems to be within acceptable values (12.5 - 13.8 or so) in most drive cycles except WOT.
Example: Cruising 60 mph at 3200 RPM and floor it, AFR drops to 10.3 to 11.1 and stays there as long as my foot stays buried. Or, pulling a long hill in 5th with the pedal floored. Same numbers. Actually pulls cleanly with no audible pinging.
I always thought the air corrector jet was for high rpm mixture control, like cruising at 7000 rpm. The bubbles slow the fuel flow so you don't get progressively rich running at high air flows.
In my mind, from 3000 rpm with a WOT, the air flow isn't high enough to bring the air corrector into play until the engine revs catch up with your right foot.
Am I looking at this the wrong way? And would a larger air corrector lean out the WOT mixture?
BTW, I have 40 IDAs, 200 AC, 130 mains, 28mm vents, 50 (or 55) idles.
Pointy bolts gets 16 replies, and I get crickets?
At least you didn’t get any turd references.
You have carbs, you cant expect them to give you the same amount of control as an EFI system. Yes 11:1 is a tad on the rich side but then again, you're only loosing about 10% of gas at that specific driving scenario and the excess cools your cylinder heads so it does no damage. Enjoy that you have a car that is working well.
More people probably know why the bolts have pointy ends than knows about your specific problem.
Yes. Thankfully no turd references.
I supposed I should be happy I have them working as well as I do. But the Swiss in me always expects too much. haha
As long as I have no pinging or black smoke, I'll probably leave it alone.
You might try one size smaller main jet, and possibly reaming it out a little if it's too small. Sometimes that's the only way to dial it in, just try and mark the jets in some way so you know they are different.
Which emulsion tubes? If everything else seems to be within range, different tubes could help. F3, F7 or F11 would be ones I'd try. My Weber books are all packed up right now, so I can't tell you which tubes do what. I'd probably try this first.
Idk what is a wide band
I have F11s in it. Seems like they're a good starting point for everything.
I should have a step or two smaller mains. I was spending so much money on brass, I figured a PLX would save me money in the long run. It's very sensitive. You can see the initial pump squirt, then the lean spot after and then it swings back into the normal range.
I only have the HP Weber book by Pat Braden. No real talk of what circuit effects WOT operation, just how fuel and air behave at different velocities.
To me, high speed operation and hard acceleration are two different animals. Like I said. I might just be looking at the problem wrong.
I will try the smaller mains and see what it does.
Like Falcor said, a carburetor is a compromise. I just want to it to be a good compromise. Also, I'm a cheap bastard that wants better MPG. I'm filling the tank every three days!
You might find the CB Weber book trouble shooting guide more informative. Any snapping back thru the carbs?
Thanks everybody! I've got something to work toward now.
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