Question? Is the oil pressure switch tool a thin walled socket? Using a standard 24mm socket I am unable to remove the sensor.
I remember when I needed to get the sensor out from the head, I bought a single deep socket from home depot for ~$5. I would do the same for the oil pressure switch if you don't have one in your toolbox that fits.
I attempted to use a 24mm socket short because of the angle. A deep socket collides into the engine bracket.
Maybe attach picture - I can't visualize the bracket that is interfering.
I remember having a similar problem. The 24mm deep socket wouldn't fit with the distributor in place. I used a 24mm Craftsman standard socket. The extension fit about half way in with it in place, which was enough to loosen the switch. After a couple turns to loosen it, I un threaded it the remainder by hand. I remember I had to use a pair of needle nose vice grips to get the socket out though. It was a very tight fit against the distributor and the engine tin.
Sockets are only standardized on the size of the hex. The other stuff like OD, overall length, and shape are variable even between old Craftsman and newer Craftsman without even getting into other brand differences.
Maybe just see if you can find a slimmer socket at HD, Lowes, etc. than what you currently have.
If it is indeed the long hex nut of the distributor hold down that is interfering, you could pull the distributor to improve access.
Would need to reinstall distributor and set the timing. PITA.
Like previous poster, I did need to do final removal by hand once it was loosened.
Not to confuse, this sensor is under a plate opposite side of the oil filter.
Yes, my temp gauge runs hot after 10 mins.
Since no picture are posted. Let's be sure we are talking the same part. I'm a bit confused since there really should be no tool access issues with getting to this sensor once the exterior cover plate is removed. Beware, removal of the two bolts will likely dump all oil if not drained and you start trying to loosen the sensor.
Here is the Taco plate located underneath the engine as shown in the Classified Forum.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=340764
Are we absolutely talking the same parts?
If so, the sensor probably isn't the issue and is more likely blocked cooling fins, blocked oil cooler, and be sure to check the fan to make sure you don't have a plastic shopping bag or other debris in the fan itself.
Early temp gauges had a wide red band. The tendency to run near the red band causes lots of worry without due cause. Later temp gauges had a much narrower band almost all the way to full scale.
See the difference in Kevin's link for consoles and gauges for sale. Early on left, Late on Rt.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=340745
Are you deep in the red?
Unfortunately, yes
Could the oil cooler internally have build up or blockage?
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=11521
1st we need to make sure you have the right sensor for that combo gauge. I'm not an expert on what sensor that gauge pairs with.
Blocked oil cooler is very possible. I've seen blocked cooler on all three engines I've torn down this year GA004310, GA000099, and the 2.4L six. Midwest cottonwood fluff is nasty and clogs leaky oily coolers.
Also verify engine timing is proper and pull plugs to make sure you aren't running extremely lean (white ish plug insulator).
Find a friend with a non contact IR thermometer to confirm oil temps. It's also possible to get rodent nest on top on engine that will make it run hot. You can check that out with a cheap USB endoscope
Still in the process of checking the gauge wiring. While driving the oil light illuminates green.
Currently my flaps are permanently open. I still need to get a new thermostat
Java2570,
Thanks, might take you up on that. What are you driving?
I've had a '74 914 2.0L since around 2010 but it's been off the road for over 2 years,
been doing a bunch of work to it and am still not done yet.
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