So after 22 years in my garage, I can finally get around to restarting. At this point, drained the gas, replaced all fuel line hoses and most vacuum lines, plugs look good, spark looks good, fuel is spraying from all injectors. Adjusted lifters. Car won't start. Any suggestions as to trouble shoot? I've ohm'd out coil (it's fine), voltage to coil is 10V (I think it's enough) as it main supply sparks, all cylinders has sparks. Turns over, no firing. Changed points to Petronix II. Still nothing even with staring fluid ( I would think if it was fuel delivery, it would at least fire for a few seconds with starting fluid).
It ran before I garaged it.
Any suggestions, check lists to follow??
Do I need to hook up air filter and vacuum lines to get it to even start at a rough idle?
10V to coil is not sufficient unless that 10V was measured during cranking. When cranking, voltage will drop. If you have 10V with just the ignition on, it will be substantially less when cranking causing a weak or non existent spark. 2 volts of voltage drop between battery and coil is pretty high. Is battery fully charged and cranking swiftly or just slow cranking?
Be sure you have the spark plug wires routed correctly to match firing order.
You mention you have spark on all cylinders but is it a strong blue spark or just faint,weak, and yellowish? Likewise you mention you have injectors spraying but are they spraying a mist or just dribbling?
After you've tried cranking - are the plugs wet?
Also have you checked compression?
If engine has spark, fuel and compression occurring in the proper sequence, it will run. You're missing one of the three.
Lack of air filter wouldn't cause issues. However, I'm not sure what vacuum lines you've not connected. If they directly feed to the throttle body, or the plenum plug them to prevent mixture from being lean. The fact that starting fluid doesn't at least cough sounds like you're not getting spark when cranking.
before the pertronix, install points and condenser, set the dwell to 50 and statically set the timing. Check the plug for a spark, then remove the air cleaner and while cranking spray the starting fluid into the throttle body (hope that you have previously put marvel mystery oil into the cylinders overnight then turned over to circulate and also changed the oil and cleaned out the strainer)
All this talk about static timing. When would it have changed? The mouse did it.
Please do basic spark and fuel checks first and make sure they are in spec. What color is the spark? Are you using fresh fuel? The old turpentine isn't so good anymore.
Timing is the last thing that should be on your mind right now, unless you fuched with it.
Please check the spark quality. And tell how you did it.
Spark, fuel and compression are the key ingredients. with above, timing is probably not your problem unless you messed with it.
Did you switch from points to pertronix before attempting to start ?
Did you removed the dizzy to do that ?
Go back to points and start from TDC in proper sequence.
I cannot give you a definitive answer, just questions.
Did you have compression?
Did the valves move when you did the adjustment? They could be stuck.
Intake clear? No mouse nest, etc.?
I use the FAST method.
F = Fuel
A = Air (compression)
S = Spark
T = Timing.
Here is how I would do it....
1. Run a compression test on each cylinder. If the compression is low on any cylinder, I would consider a teardown to rebuild.
2. Verify the spark. Simplest method is to pull the distributor out and put in a set of points and a condenser. Make sure the points are gapped right. Then reinstall the distributor.
3. Verify the timing is correct. Turn the engine with the starter and thumb check the #1 cylinder. When it spits air from compression, manually turn the engine until the TDC mark is aligned with the notch in the fan housing. Then set the distributor rotor to point at the little line on the distributor housing. That is the #1 mark for the distributor. Install the plug wires and new plugs. Right side wires are connected front distributor tower to front plug, rear distributor tower to rear plug. The ones on the left connect front distributor tower to rear plug, rear distributor tower to front plug. The left plug wires should cross.
4. Open the throttle body and spray some carb cleaner in there. Then try to start the engine. If the ignition is working, the car should fire and die at this point. If you get a backfire after that, you have a problem with either the distributor drive gear in the engine or you put a plug wire on wrong. I would bet on the plug wire.
5. Now that you know the ignition works, concentrate on the FI. Verify the fuel pump cycles when you turn the key on. Check the fuel pressure. In a quiet garage, turn the key on and slowly open the throttle with your hand and listen for the injectors to click (that is the D-Jet "accelerator pump" function). Make sure all the ground leads are hooked up and not broken. Check the CHT wiring and the wiring to the Manifold pressure sensor.
If all that is correct, it should run.
Clay
So put new points back in along with cap, rotor, wires, TDC was set with static timing and after a good helping of mystery oil, it started right up...however....it seems that #4 is not firing, checked ompression and it's at about 90 and after I put in mystery oil it goes to 110 or so...ring rebuild time???
After running it for several minutes and went to restart, spark disappears, I check with a timing light attached to the wire and nothing. Some cylinders have a spark and others don't so it doesn't restart.
When I remove the plug and connect the end to engine ground, there's a spark and the timing light is firing. I put the plug back in and no light from the timing light.
Is there something with the ground?
Is it possible that the plugs are bad, they are old but only have 200 miles on them at most. I"m going to change them out.
Plugs came out black.
I am stumped, it's like I lose ground when I put the plugs back in and the wires cannot conduct the spark.
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