Printable Version of Topic

Click here to view this topic in its original format

914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Rebuiding Inside-out

Posted by: bkrantz Oct 16 2019, 08:47 PM

I realize most rebuilds go from the inside to the outside, but I am struck by how straight and clean the outer panels, including paint, look on my 73 2.0. And all the nasty stuff is hidden underneath--which I know is also not unusual.

Any way, I bought the car knowing most of what it was: a 2.0 with all the sport and appearance group equipment, including 5 good Fuchs, and the original fuel injection. The original engine is confirmed by a COA. In contrast to the exterior the interior was mixed at best, with some funky carpet. And the front and rear trunks (and engine compartment, and interior) had been sprayed with black undercoating.

So after a month, I have the car stripped to a bare shell, except for suspension and steering. I measured everything I could, and the body is very square and on spec. I need to patch some local rust spots, and replace the rear floor. And then do some minor straightening: right headlight bucket, front edge of right front fender, rear panel, etc.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Oct 16 2019, 08:49 PM

I forgot to mention that I will add some door braces before doing anything serious.

But I wanted to play with my new Fein tool. This thing is amazing for scraping off the floor tar mat: no effort at all to clear half the floor in about 20 minutes.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Oct 16 2019, 08:53 PM

And I testing the Fein for cutting the floor sheet metal, using the round bimetal blade. This is a circle, but the blade does not rotate--it oscillates by about 5 degrees and cuts a straight, thin kerf very easily.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Mikey914 Oct 16 2019, 09:31 PM

Use the dry ice method if you need to remove more tar. Works well to make an alcohol dry ice slurry and chip it off in large chunks.

Posted by: bkrantz Oct 20 2019, 08:22 PM

Been a couple of days and I have nearly completed my "final" assessment (though surprises will await!). Now I get start more objective planning and start ordering parts.

The major areas and tasks now:
replace rear trunk floor
replace rear passenger floor and patch front corners
patch local spots on inner sills
repair hell hole, with rust areas on top of sill, inner fender wall, and firewall
repair the right front corner, where a previous repair got dinged again

I need to get the rear done before mounting the car on a rotisserie.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat Oct 20 2019, 11:49 PM

Been there, done that (or at least Cary who did all the work on my car did)....you'll have some fun Bob.
And yes, must finish this up before it goes on the rotisserie.
Great job so far.

Attached Image

Posted by: pploco Oct 21 2019, 08:31 AM

QUOTE(Mikey914 @ Oct 16 2019, 09:31 PM) *

Use the dry ice method if you need to remove more tar. Works well to make an alcohol dry ice slurry and chip it off in large chunks.


Or use one of these - the tar will come off in big chunks

IPB Image

Posted by: bkrantz Oct 21 2019, 08:20 PM

QUOTE(raynekat @ Oct 20 2019, 11:49 PM) *

Been there, done that (or at least Cary who did all the work on my car did)....you'll have some fun Bob.
And yes, must finish this up before it goes on the rotisserie.
Great job so far.

Attached Image


Thanks, Doug. Hoping mine looks like that in a few weeks.

Another question: do the body plugs have any purpose? Any reason to cut these into replacement panels besides originality?

Posted by: bbrock Oct 21 2019, 08:50 PM

The body plugs are important for separating the men from the boys. lol-2.gif Other than that, they are just cosmetic at this point. I think they allowed access for the spot welder during assembly. I did find them handy for clamping the floor during replacement, but I was doing a full floor pan. They are a fair amount of extra work to cut and replicate too. Save your old ones though. Somebody might want them. I had to buy a couple.

IPB Image


IPB Image

Before ordering sheet metal, I would run boroscope inside those longs to have a look to be sure they look as sound on the inside as outside.

Posted by: bkrantz Oct 28 2019, 08:55 PM

I have been out of town a bit, but needed to make some physical progress.

First, I finished cutting loose the front right fender. It is not original (nor was the attachment), but is in good shape (except for a ding on the lower front seam). Now I can access the inner fender.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Oct 28 2019, 09:01 PM

I was waiting for a delivery truck, so decided to make a rough cut out of the rear trunk floor. Still liking the Fein multi tool.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 4 2019, 09:08 PM

Cleaner cut for the rear trunk floor. Looks like the distance from the rear panel to the transaxle support cross member is short 1/4 inch, compared to the RD replacement panel.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 5 2019, 09:34 PM

Testing my spot weld drill bit.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 11 2019, 09:46 PM

The bumpers, and all trim, were painted black. I wanted see the condition of the chrome underneath, so cleared a patch with paint remover. Looks OK except for the sanding marks!



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Garland Nov 11 2019, 10:37 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Nov 4 2019, 10:08 PM) *

Cleaner cut for the rear trunk floor. Looks like the distance from the rear panel to the transaxle support cross member is short 1/4 inch, compared to the RD replacement panel.


Humm. I have the same one, but mine does not have that lip over the cross brace. It just runs out straight. Did you fold it over to make the flange for the spot welds? Did you drill and weld in a nut in the cross brace, or just go with out it?


I bent the lip, and made the flange. I did not add the nut. Just be sure to line it up tight, before you decide where to bend. And that the small center cap fits the width.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=265772&view=findpost&p=2251890

Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 15 2019, 09:19 PM

Brought home a donor clip to use to replace my right front corner. Thanks, Steve!




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 15 2019, 09:20 PM

Also a rear trunk lid, straighter than mine and without rust!




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 16 2019, 10:08 PM

Starting surgery on the donor clip.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Superhawk996 Nov 17 2019, 12:22 PM

Watching this build. Keep going! cheer.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 17 2019, 10:21 PM

Cut the donor clip down more. This is the largest section I might splice in, but still more thinking to do: what to save on the car (bent up but little rust) and what to splice in (straight but rusty in spots).




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 18 2019, 09:34 PM

Started surgery on the receiver car. Removed the headlight box and the forward part of the inner fender. Lots of metal work to do on the floor corner.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 18 2019, 09:35 PM

Here are the parts removed. I will reuse the circular brace.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bbrock Nov 18 2019, 09:51 PM

Are you still using your Fein for the cutting? That looks great. Looking forward to seeing how you make out on straightening the boogers. popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 19 2019, 09:19 PM

The Fein works best where I can cut from an exposed edge, and through a single layer. I also reach for a Rigid reciprocating saw, and a cut-off wheel on a grinder.

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 19 2019, 09:21 PM

First pass at reforming the floor corner.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 19 2019, 09:24 PM

And progress on the rear, removing the rear panel so I can repair the inner-outer fender seems and get the corners right for the replacement floor section.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 19 2019, 09:25 PM

Left corner detail. Pretty nasty work done when the original rear panel was replaced.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 20 2019, 05:45 PM

Quick adjustments of the inner fender corners, left:



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 20 2019, 05:45 PM

and right:




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 20 2019, 05:46 PM

Now the panel fits.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 20 2019, 05:48 PM

Back at the front, I am probably done working the floor corner, and got the front panel end mostly back in shape.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 20 2019, 05:51 PM

And started to dissect the donor clip. All I need now is the inner fender wall and headlight box. I will keep the vertical brace attached at least until I can check the fit.

Bad news is some local rust that will have to be patched before it can all go together.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 20 2019, 05:56 PM

Here's how the front corner started. I feel pretty good about what I was able to do.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: FourBlades Nov 20 2019, 05:57 PM


Some great progress! smilie_pokal.gif

Nice work!

John

Posted by: jim_hoyland Nov 20 2019, 06:05 PM

Impressive ! smile.gif beer.gif

Posted by: bbrock Nov 20 2019, 09:41 PM

pray.gif Nice work!

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 21 2019, 09:51 PM

Thanks, everyone.

Donor part down to inner fender, headlight box, and vertical brace. I need to repair some local rust but will wait until I cut and fit the fender wall splice.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat Nov 22 2019, 12:31 AM

Looking good there Bob.

Posted by: bkrantz Nov 22 2019, 09:21 PM

Thanks, Doug. I am in deeper than I wanted, but kinda enjoying it so far.

Posted by: Cairo94507 Nov 23 2019, 08:17 AM

Nice work and skills. beerchug.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 5 2019, 09:15 PM

After a long trip to Tucson for turkey and visiting kids, I am back home and at work on the 914. Excited to start actually putting pieces together.

Got the front corner clip rough-fitted, and was surprised that my first attempt measures pretty close to exact (comparing left and right dimensions, and compared to my new straight frunk lid).




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 5 2019, 09:18 PM

More work to do on the right end of the front panel, that was pretty banged up. I did some straightening by eye, and now have to precisely match the clip.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: GTSandberg Dec 6 2019, 06:13 AM

Craftmanship and attention to details, Im in popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 7 2019, 09:37 PM

Still working the fit. Made a cardboard template from the good side, and now need to work the bad side to match (and get the splice, the front panel, and the floor to align).



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 7 2019, 09:38 PM

Work to do. Gap seen from below.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: FourBlades Dec 8 2019, 11:26 AM


Looking good!

Do some diagonal measurements from the base of the windshield to the corner of the buckets. I had a car that was off by one inch on one side! Made fitting the headlights exciting until I realized and fixed it. Don't neglect the vertical checks as well.

I have a feeling from your work that you know all that. biggrin.gif

John

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 8 2019, 09:35 PM

QUOTE(FourBlades @ Dec 8 2019, 10:26 AM) *

Looking good!

Do some diagonal measurements from the base of the windshield to the corner of the buckets. I had a car that was off by one inch on one side! Made fitting the headlights exciting until I realized and fixed it. Don't neglect the vertical checks as well.

I have a feeling from your work that you know all that. biggrin.gif

John


Thanks, John. The diagonal measurements (and lots more) check out. I also compared positions to the front hood (a very straight one).

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 8 2019, 09:37 PM

More metal work, and the fit is getting closer--off by no more than a 1/16 to 3/32 inch.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 8 2019, 09:42 PM

Last bit of mis-alignment is the outermost end of the front panel.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 9 2019, 09:16 PM

After a few more hours today, I am claiming victory and will get on to welding soon. All the gaps and measurements are within 1/16 inch, and all the angles within 1 degree.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 9 2019, 09:17 PM

Of course, I might tap on things a bit more, just to make things more pretty.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 10 2019, 09:45 PM

Now starting on the rear. Weeks ago, I cut out the badly rusted rear half of the trunk floor, and also the un-rusty rear panel. That was a replacement during a PO repair, not done well. Took some surgery to undo the triple-layer seams on each side.

Here is the left side, looking not bad, except the seam and lower edges.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 10 2019, 09:47 PM

And here is the lumpy right side. Previous repair work done quickly?



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 11 2019, 08:38 PM

First effort, left side. Almost good.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 11 2019, 08:40 PM

And right side. Still needs work.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bbrock Dec 11 2019, 09:19 PM

You are a wizard. pray.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 12 2019, 10:40 PM

Right side done enough for now.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 12 2019, 10:43 PM

Time to start on the rear panel.

And yes, almost all the work so far has been to repair collision damage that had been repaired before.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 17 2019, 09:05 PM

Getting back to work, and a real milestone today: actually adding metal (welded the holes and tears in various places before starting to install the front corner splice.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 17 2019, 09:08 PM

And the first parts of the bracing for the open body. Hoping to get the front and rear done, and the car on the rotisserie by Dec 31.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 22 2019, 09:27 PM

Completed the interior bracing with some diagonals. Not sure if necessary but my son was having fun with the new TIG welder.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 22 2019, 09:29 PM

And completed the patches on the right front inner fender splice.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 22 2019, 09:32 PM

Two steps forward, at least one back!

I knew about this "surprise", with a crappy lap joint in the outer rear fender. I tried to ignore it for as long as possible, but decided to at least see how bad. Only attached on the outer lap with some spot welds and brazing.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 22 2019, 09:35 PM

Decided to separate, in order to make it right. This also gives me better access to finish work on the inner fender. Pretty easy since the fender was only attached at the lap joint, some brazing around the tail light opening, and one spot of brazing on the top seam.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Superhawk996 Dec 23 2019, 02:50 AM

piratenanner.gif

Yea! Coming along nicely.

Saw your other post about prepping lap welds. Now you've definitely seen the down side of them. Take the time, fix it right with a butt weld.

welder.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 23 2019, 09:27 PM

QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Dec 23 2019, 01:50 AM) *

piratenanner.gif

Yea! Coming along nicely.

Saw your other post about prepping lap welds. Now you've definitely seen the down side of them. Take the time, fix it right with a butt weld.

welder.gif


This has to be a nomination for the worst lap joint. Crude cut left open inside the fender.

My question was more about spot-welded seams, where paint access will be difficult at best.

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 23 2019, 09:29 PM

Here's the front corner mostly welded in place. A few more tweaks and we can finish the butt seam.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 23 2019, 09:32 PM

Meanwhile, getting started on the rear. First trim and fit for the trunk floor.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 23 2019, 09:34 PM

And starting the fit for the rear panel. This will need some work.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 23 2019, 09:35 PM

Right side is looking better, with access after removing the outer fender.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: djway Dec 23 2019, 10:49 PM

AWESOME
There has got to be some Satisfaction there smile.gif

Posted by: sixnotfour Dec 23 2019, 11:09 PM

agree.gif
smash.gif welder.gif beerchug.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 24 2019, 09:56 PM

QUOTE(djway @ Dec 23 2019, 09:49 PM) *

AWESOME
There has got to be some Satisfaction there smile.gif


Yeah, I do enjoy this. Certainly not doing this for profit!

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 24 2019, 09:58 PM

Got the outer fender cut and fit. A few more tweaks and it should be ready for welding, along with the floor and the rear panel.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 24 2019, 10:00 PM

And...here's the last dodgy previous repair, where somebody spliced a replacement front panel with a lap joint, just inside of the left head light. Time to fix this.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 25 2019, 09:16 PM

Only a half-day for xmas, since I want to get as much done as possible during my son's visit.

Working on the dodgy front lap joint, starting with a cut through the overlapping metal.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 25 2019, 09:21 PM

And a further adjustment and test fit for all the rear pieces--almost ready to start welding. Fits are within about 1/16 inch and alignment looks good with my replacement trunk lid.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Superhawk996 Dec 26 2019, 09:19 AM

smilie_pokal.gif

Looking better.

My car has been clipped in the front and I'm not thrilled with the way it was done. Unfortunately it won't get done until I decide to paint the car. Too much other work going on right now! At one point they must have been teaching lap welds as the quick and dirty way to fix stuff because I see it done a lot.

The problem is that no one ever saw these cars as worthy of a proper fix and most prior 914 owners back in the day were just too cheap to have it done properly since 914's were NARP.

Times have changed. Keep up the great work.

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 26 2019, 09:07 PM

QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Dec 26 2019, 08:19 AM) *

smilie_pokal.gif

Looking better.

My car has been clipped in the front and I'm not thrilled with the way it was done. Unfortunately it won't get done until I decide to paint the car. Too much other work going on right now! At one point they must have been teaching lap welds as the quick and dirty way to fix stuff because I see it done a lot.

The problem is that no one ever saw these cars as worthy of a proper fix and most prior 914 owners back in the day were just too cheap to have it done properly since 914's were NARP.

Times have changed. Keep up the great work.


Thanks. So far, none of the previous repairs meet even my lowest standard. And the lap joint in the rear fender was truly awful, with a jagged, irregular cut along the underlying edge (and nothing to even pretend sealing that inner joint).

Definitely learning as we go, and enjoying having my son do most of the welding.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 26 2019, 09:09 PM

Got the rear panel and outer fender welds mostly done.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 26 2019, 09:11 PM

Left side needed a 3/4 inch wide filler for the gap in the raised ridge below the tail light. Looks a bit crude, but will be better after grinding.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 26 2019, 09:12 PM

Same on the right side, but the gap was only 3/16 inch.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 26 2019, 09:14 PM

And what was the lap joint in the front panel, now ready for a tidy butt joint weld.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: FourBlades Dec 27 2019, 09:47 AM


Nice work! first.gif

Great to fix things the correct way.

You are making rapid progress.

These cars are worth much more now then they were when new, kind of ironic.

John

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 27 2019, 09:48 PM

QUOTE(FourBlades @ Dec 27 2019, 08:47 AM) *

Nice work! first.gif

Great to fix things the correct way.

You are making rapid progress.

These cars are worth much more now then they were when new, kind of ironic.

John


Thanks. It is fun indulging my sense of "doing it right", even if my skills are not pro level. And while I do not expect to make money, at least the hole will not be too deep.

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 27 2019, 09:52 PM

Getting the front seam stitched up, along with the horizontal brace (it needs a patch to fill the gap in the center).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 27 2019, 09:57 PM

Here are the accessory pieces I made for the rear: heavy gauge L-brackets for the bumper mounting holes below the floor, light gauge reinforcements for the holes above the floor, and reinforcing patches for the floor above the rear sway bar brackets.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Kansas 914 Dec 28 2019, 06:29 AM

Bob - you are doing everything right.

It was nice to see the progress in person Friday.

Keep up the great work and let me know if you need another set of hands after your son leaves.

Posted by: FourBlades Dec 28 2019, 08:28 AM


What are the reinforcement pieces for?

John

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 28 2019, 09:45 PM

John, the 1/8 inch thick L-braces are for the bumper mount holes under the trunk floor. They replace original factory braces that were pressed in a design too hard for me to duplicate. I created my own 18 gauge rectangular reinforcement for the upper holes. These have no big hole in the center yet. And the trapezoidal pieces double up the floor above the sway bar brackets that mount on the underside of the trunk floor.

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 28 2019, 09:48 PM

Got the trunk floor welded in, with plug welds all around, and some creative thick beads in the rear corners (these will get ground down).



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 28 2019, 09:50 PM

Lower bumper mount hole reinforcement, using 1/8 inch flat bar to replace the factory L-brace.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 28 2019, 09:51 PM

And my own additional brace for the upper bumper mount hole, to double the metal and add strength.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 28 2019, 09:54 PM

And a simple bent strip to bridge the gap between the left and right horizontal braces in the front trunk.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 28 2019, 09:57 PM

Now the fun part: fabricating brackets from 2 inch square tubing to attache the car to the rotisserie lift using the bumper mount holes. This is the back.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 28 2019, 09:58 PM

And the front, where greater curvature requires longer stand-off.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 28 2019, 09:59 PM

Here's the rear, with the horizontal mount from the lift bolted on.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 28 2019, 10:02 PM

Finally! The car is on the rotisserie lift. This was the big milestone I hoped for, with my son visiting for 2 weeks. His willingness to help, and welding skills, made it possible.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: ndfrigi Dec 28 2019, 10:10 PM

wow @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=23343 you and your son are doing a lot of accomplishment each day! keep up the pace and for sure next summer the car will be on the road. thanks for sharing all the details!

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 29 2019, 10:03 PM

Final steps. First, we detached the suspension--took the front out as one assembly, including the steering rack. Then some final adjustment of the lift, and the car spins nicely onto its side.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 29 2019, 10:05 PM

Just the right position now for the next task: rehab the rusted floor.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 30 2019, 09:17 PM

Another view of the car on the lift. I bought this rotisserie from Northern Tool. The design has two key features. Hydraulic rams at either end allow easy lifting and dropping by about 18 inches. This made it easy to attach the brackets with the car on jack stands, and then elevate it enough to clear the side while rotating to sideways. The second feature allows for tuning the position of the car relative to the pivots, thus getting the center of gravity close to the rotation axis.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Kansas 914 Dec 31 2019, 08:02 AM

It appears you achieved your goal while your son was in town. At this point the work becomes fun!

Did you uncover any surprises when you removed the suspension?


Posted by: sixnotfour Dec 31 2019, 09:02 AM

wow your goin for it...your garage is @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=116 worthy... beerchug.gif

Posted by: Kansas 914 Dec 31 2019, 09:14 AM

QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Dec 31 2019, 08:02 AM) *

wow your goin for it...your garage is @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=116 worthy... beerchug.gif


Jeff - he needs a few more bikes! wink.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 31 2019, 09:23 PM

QUOTE(Kansas 914 @ Dec 31 2019, 07:02 AM) *

It appears you achieved your goal while your son was in town. At this point the work becomes fun!

Did you uncover any surprises when you removed the suspension?


None obvious. We did drop the front as a complete assembly, and I still have to take it apart.

Posted by: raynekat Jan 1 2020, 05:45 PM

What? No updates on the 1st? w00t.gif welder.gif
Haha
Happy New Years Bob.
Your progress is looking great from way over here.

Posted by: Superhawk996 Jan 1 2020, 06:30 PM

Sweet Rotisserie. I've always like the type like this with the hydraulic ram.

I measured my garage and determined that I'll have to remove the garage door opener and the upper guide tracks if I hope to use a rotisserie. sad.gif

Looking like you've got this beat and are will on your way to easy street to work on the undersides.

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 1 2020, 09:44 PM

QUOTE(raynekat @ Jan 1 2020, 04:45 PM) *

What? No updates on the 1st? w00t.gif welder.gif
Haha
Happy New Years Bob.
Your progress is looking great from way over here.


Thanks, Doug--back at you guys, too.

Shirlee wanted to get outside and enjoy another snowy day, so we hiked the ridge behind our house--about 1000 ft up.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 1 2020, 09:45 PM

And after that I got about an hour of garage time. Enough to separate the struts and steering rack from the front suspension, and pull the torsion bars.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 1 2020, 09:47 PM

Torsion bars look like blue strip coding.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Kansas 914 Jan 2 2020, 07:02 AM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jan 1 2020, 08:47 PM) *

Torsion bars look like blue strip coding.

I'm sure you know this but don't mix up right and left torsion bars when re-installing. There should be a R & L stamped on the end.

Keep up the good work!

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 2 2020, 08:59 PM

QUOTE(Kansas 914 @ Jan 2 2020, 06:02 AM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jan 1 2020, 08:47 PM) *

Torsion bars look like blue strip coding.

I'm sure you know this but don't mix up right and left torsion bars when re-installing. There should be a R & L stamped on the end.

Keep up the good work!


Thanks for the reminder. I did see the L and R stamps.

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 2 2020, 09:02 PM

And on the the floor, starting with some rough cuts between all the welded seams. Next step is drilling out LOTS of spot welds.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 2 2020, 09:04 PM

Inside the center tunnel is the obligatory mouse nest.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat Jan 2 2020, 09:33 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jan 2 2020, 07:04 PM) *

Inside the center tunnel is the obligatory mouse nest.


Now that is pretty glorious....and Shirlee, I don't jest. wink.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 3 2020, 09:07 PM

QUOTE(raynekat @ Jan 2 2020, 08:33 PM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jan 2 2020, 07:04 PM) *

Inside the center tunnel is the obligatory mouse nest.


Now that is pretty glorious....and Shirlee, I don't jest. wink.gif



And that's just the part I could not vacuum out through the holes in the top of the tunnel.

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 3 2020, 09:09 PM

Now for the surgical removal of the rest of the rear floor, starting on the left side. BTW access on the rotisserie, and also raising the lowering the car height, is glorious.

First drill out the welds and remove the jacking donut.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 3 2020, 09:11 PM

Then drill out the welds and remove the triangular gusset.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 3 2020, 09:12 PM

Then a happy hour or so of drilling out spot welds along the sill, tunnel, and firewalls.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 3 2020, 09:13 PM

Then some sections can come free, exposing the interior firewall space--and a bit of surface rust (but not looking bad).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 4 2020, 09:17 PM

Only had about an hour in the garage today, so just finished up the rest of the left side. I will get the remaining interior remnants once I spin the car to horizontal.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 4 2020, 09:19 PM

I discovered the trailing edge of the tunnel has welding, in addition to the spot welds.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 4 2020, 09:21 PM

Getting ready to work on the right side, which was down near floor level. With the lift feature of the rotisserie, I was able to raise the car about 18 inches, and make the working height much better. Nice feature.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: sixnotfour Jan 5 2020, 06:26 PM

beerchug.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 5 2020, 09:08 PM

Got the other side done today. Now I need to grind off the spot weld remnants and clean up rusty metal--and look for any spots that need replacement.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 5 2020, 09:09 PM

Here's the rear floor, in pieces after removal.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 5 2020, 09:11 PM

Interior cross brace is also fully gone. Ground off a few surface welds (not spot welds) at the center tunnel.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 5 2020, 09:14 PM

Before fitting the new floor I have a few things to fix, including a dent in the bottom of the right long. Probably a dumb attempt to jack the car up from the middle. The photo makes it look like only the flange is pushed in, but the flat surfaces are also bent.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: altitude411 Jan 5 2020, 09:22 PM

Fantastic work and photos. Thanks for posting. beerchug.gif popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: Kansas 914 Jan 6 2020, 06:26 AM

QUOTE(altitude411 @ Jan 5 2020, 08:22 PM) *

Fantastic work and photos. Thanks for posting. beerchug.gif popcorn[1].gif

Agreed!

You are really doing a terrific job documenting your work to the benefit of anyone that will face this task in the future.

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 6 2020, 09:28 PM

QUOTE(Kansas 914 @ Jan 6 2020, 05:26 AM) *

QUOTE(altitude411 @ Jan 5 2020, 08:22 PM) *

Fantastic work and photos. Thanks for posting. beerchug.gif popcorn[1].gif

Agreed!

You are really doing a terrific job documenting your work to the benefit of anyone that will face this task in the future.


Thanks, Mike. Documentation makes it more fun for me.

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 6 2020, 09:32 PM

Now for the front corners. I had already explored the left side, so just some clean up (drill out the seam spot welds and clean up the sill surface). Sill looks solid.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 6 2020, 09:34 PM

Right corner floor looks about the same, just a slightly bigger area cut out. But the inner sill has a rust hole!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 6 2020, 09:36 PM

Fortunately, the rust-through on the sill is small, and the rust was eroding from outside in. This should be easy to patch before jabbing a new floor corner.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 6 2020, 09:39 PM

Another sill problem: the inside of the left sill has the classic web of cracks, near the folded recess for grabbing the parking brake lever.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 6 2020, 09:41 PM

For better access I drilled out the rest of the spot welds to detach the left edge of the remaining floor. With the floor propped out, I ground a recess along each crack for better weld penetration.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 6 2020, 09:43 PM

Just for fun before quitting today, I mounted the replacement floor section. Fits nicely, but will need trimming on all sides.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 6 2020, 09:44 PM

And looks good on the inside.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 7 2020, 09:17 PM

Just some trivial work today, straightening one of the rear floor triangle braces.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 7 2020, 09:19 PM

Got distracted by the need to make progress in converting my garage lights from fluorescent to LED, with brighter and whiter light.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 7 2020, 09:22 PM

The problem is that not only are the LED "bulbs" direct wire, so cannot use the ballast, but the stock sockets are double-pole and must be replaced. I have to strip each fixture down to a bare shell, and then install new sockets.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Kansas 914 Jan 8 2020, 07:35 AM

LED replacements are well worth the time and money.

As I get older I can never have enough light in the garage. I am glad I did mine and might install a few more.

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 8 2020, 09:35 PM

Finished the two fixtures above my work area. Replaced all the sockets and did the direct wiring.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 8 2020, 09:35 PM

Let there be light!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 8 2020, 09:37 PM

Had just a bit of time to play, so I tackled the muffler shield. It was still attached to the remnant of the old trunk floor.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 8 2020, 09:40 PM

Drilled out some spot welds, and ground off beads on welded mounts, and then a little hammer work to remove some dents and straighten the edge.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: GTSandberg Jan 10 2020, 03:02 AM

Super thread, superb craftmanship and thorough documentation. Keep it coming!

Posted by: sixnotfour Jan 10 2020, 03:36 AM

backdate the attachment method for the heat shield....screws,, see the 70s...

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 11 2020, 11:08 PM

QUOTE(GTSandberg @ Jan 10 2020, 02:02 AM) *

Super thread, superb craftmanship and thorough documentation. Keep it coming!


Thanks, and will do, after a break to visit my kids.

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 11 2020, 11:09 PM

QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Jan 10 2020, 02:36 AM) *

backdate the attachment method for the heat shield....screws,, see the 70s...


What are the advantages?

Posted by: raynekat Jan 11 2020, 11:21 PM

I was thinking....maybe you could put hydrofoils on this car with a prop coming out of the back. Then you wouldn't need to buy that future bike?

I attached the muffler heat shield with screws on my car. It's been ceramic ally coated and is removable....as if I'll ever need to do that. Looks nice tho.
Good work there Bob.

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 12 2020, 08:54 PM

QUOTE(raynekat @ Jan 11 2020, 10:21 PM) *

I was thinking....maybe you could put hydrofoils on this car with a prop coming out of the back. Then you wouldn't need to buy that future bike?

I attached the muffler heat shield with screws on my car. It's been ceramic ally coated and is removable....as if I'll ever need to do that. Looks nice tho.
Good work there Bob.


Thanks, Doug. Never too many bikes.

Posted by: aggiezig Jan 13 2020, 12:17 AM

Great build so far! Enjoyed reading your progress. Man, all that metalwork makes me thankful that I only had to do floors and trunks on my car. Keep up the good work beerchug.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 13 2020, 11:18 PM

QUOTE(aggiezig @ Jan 12 2020, 11:17 PM) *

Great build so far! Enjoyed reading your progress. Man, all that metalwork makes me thankful that I only had to do floors and trunks on my car. Keep up the good work beerchug.gif


Thanks. I am actually enjoying this more than I expected. That could change when I get to more finish work.

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 20 2020, 09:21 PM

Back from "vacation" from my retired life, where I do some teaching, research, and consulting from my house in Colorado. Spent a week with my son in Arizona, and pretty much did the same thing.

Anyway, getting back to work on the 914, but first had to play with some new tools, including the Fein dust catcher attachment for the grinder. Works pretty well, and started on the welds around the floor seams.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 20 2020, 09:23 PM

Dang, the photo posting still does not want to honor my right side up. I have tried opening and saving photos in different ways--and 914World still posts things sideways.

Posted by: raynekat Jan 20 2020, 11:18 PM

Bob....this is what I do with all my photos....and it seems to work.

After you load them on your computer and before posting them, pull them up in some kind of viewer.
On my iMac, it's just the built-in photo viewer.
Then rotate them 90 deg, 90 again, 90 again, and another 90 to get them back to where they started from.
So rotate them through a total of 360 deg (another way to say the above).
Then save them.

Now you should be able to post the pics on 914World (or other sites) right side up.

I don't know why this goofy little photo dance seems to work, but it always has for me.
Gud luk! Ha

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 21 2020, 09:35 PM

Thanks, Doug. That may have worked! I reposted the photo to my previous post, and it looks right.

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 21 2020, 09:37 PM

No garage work today. I only had a spare hour, and did this instead.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Kansas 914 Jan 22 2020, 06:06 AM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jan 21 2020, 08:37 PM) *

No garage work today. I only had a spare hour, and did this instead.

I had a similar exercise as well. wink.gif

It was some wet heavy stuff.

Posted by: sixnotfour Jan 22 2020, 07:10 AM

QUOTE
It was some wet heavy stuff.

In UT. I call that WA. snow... barf.gif

dust collector// idea.gif popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: Kansas 914 Jan 22 2020, 09:33 AM

QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Jan 22 2020, 06:10 AM) *

QUOTE
It was some wet heavy stuff.

In UT. I call that WA. snow... barf.gif

dust collector// idea.gif popcorn[1].gif

biggrin.gif

Jeff - I will remember that line. wink.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 22 2020, 10:02 PM

Back to work. First prepping all the joints, grinding out remains of spot welds and cleaning up metal.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 22 2020, 10:04 PM

Then fitting the new floor section. First trim the excess around the edges, and then cut the remaining floor piece to fit. Decided to keep as much of the RD panel as possible since some of the rust extended forward of the cross brace.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 22 2020, 10:06 PM

Other side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Ferg Jan 22 2020, 10:35 PM

Just found this thread, Nice work!

Posted by: Mark Henry Jan 22 2020, 10:40 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jan 21 2020, 10:37 PM) *

No garage work today. I only had a spare hour, and did this instead.

Unique looking house. smile.gif

Posted by: raynekat Jan 22 2020, 11:21 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jan 22 2020, 08:40 PM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jan 21 2020, 10:37 PM) *

No garage work today. I only had a spare hour, and did this instead.

Unique looking house. smile.gif


It is....but he likes that.
His last house was an igloo. confused24.gif rolleyes.gif laugh.gif

Posted by: Kansas 914 Jan 23 2020, 07:28 AM

QUOTE(Ferg @ Jan 22 2020, 09:35 PM) *

Just found this thread, Nice work!

Ferg,

Bob is doing a great job. It will be nice to have another 914 at Cars & Coffee in Durango!

Bob used to campaign a 914 in Texas a few years ago.

Posted by: Ferg Jan 23 2020, 08:11 PM

QUOTE(Kansas 914 @ Jan 23 2020, 06:28 AM) *

QUOTE(Ferg @ Jan 22 2020, 09:35 PM) *

Just found this thread, Nice work!

Ferg,

Bob is doing a great job. It will be nice to have another 914 at Cars & Coffee in Durango!

Bob used to campaign a 914 in Texas a few years ago.



Sounds like the Durango crew just keeps getting better driving.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 23 2020, 09:27 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jan 22 2020, 09:40 PM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jan 21 2020, 10:37 PM) *

No garage work today. I only had a spare hour, and did this instead.

Unique looking house. smile.gif


Thanks. We found a local architect who designed the house to fit the site--and our preferences. Of course, I should have made the garage bigger.

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 23 2020, 09:27 PM

QUOTE(raynekat @ Jan 22 2020, 10:21 PM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jan 22 2020, 08:40 PM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jan 21 2020, 10:37 PM) *

No garage work today. I only had a spare hour, and did this instead.

Unique looking house. smile.gif


It is....but he likes that.
His last house was an igloo. confused24.gif rolleyes.gif laugh.gif


Only half the year.

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 23 2020, 09:31 PM

QUOTE(Ferg @ Jan 23 2020, 07:11 PM) *

QUOTE(Kansas 914 @ Jan 23 2020, 06:28 AM) *

QUOTE(Ferg @ Jan 22 2020, 09:35 PM) *

Just found this thread, Nice work!

Ferg,

Bob is doing a great job. It will be nice to have another 914 at Cars & Coffee in Durango!

Bob used to campaign a 914 in Texas a few years ago.



Sounds like the Durango crew just keeps getting better driving.gif


I have really enjoyed getting to know the local car crowd, and feel welcomed. If we could only get Colorado DOT to stop laying down gravel instead of sand on winter roads.

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 24 2020, 10:07 PM

A few things to do before I can start welding in the floor. Item #1: welding the web of cracks in the left inner long, at the parking brake handle recess. A little sloppy (my excuse: upside down, which I could have corrected by rotating the rotisserie, but...).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 24 2020, 10:08 PM

And then grinding (and then some more welding and grinding).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 24 2020, 10:17 PM

And before I forget, I welded the rear sway bar mounts to the new trunk floor.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 26 2020, 09:29 PM

Item #2: Straightening the bottoms of both sills, with dents probably from jacking incidents. Here is the right sill.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 26 2020, 09:30 PM

And the left sill.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 26 2020, 09:31 PM

I made some studs that can be welded onto the sill seam, and screw into an adapter for my slide hammer.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 26 2020, 09:32 PM

One on each sill, welded onto the seam at the center of each dent.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 26 2020, 09:33 PM

Slide hammer in action. Each side took a good number of hard hits to get close to straight.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 26 2020, 09:34 PM

Left side, after cutting off the stud and grinding away the weld.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 26 2020, 09:35 PM

And the right side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 26 2020, 09:37 PM

Item #3: patching the hole in the front inner right sill, where rust ate through (fortunately from outside in). Here's the hole after cutting.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 26 2020, 09:39 PM

I made a patch from a section of 914 front fender.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 26 2020, 09:40 PM

Patch in place. Magnets are helpful.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 26 2020, 09:41 PM

Welded in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 26 2020, 09:42 PM

And after grinding. I was less aggressive, and left some of the weld since the sheet metal here is relatively thin.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Kansas 914 Jan 27 2020, 07:30 AM

welder.gif

The great work continues!

Posted by: FourBlades Jan 27 2020, 11:25 AM


Nice job, making great progress! beerchug.gif

John

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 27 2020, 09:40 PM

Thanks, guys. Keeping the progress going...

Item #4: the. front floor corners. Here's the patch for the left side, again made from genuine 914 sheet metal.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 27 2020, 09:41 PM

Test fit.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 28 2020, 09:20 PM

Jumping ahead to #5: treating and painting the rust inside the lower firewall.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 30 2020, 09:31 PM

Back to Item#4: the floor front corners. I decided to reshape my patches to better duplicate the original floor channels.

Here's the left side, ready to weld.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 30 2020, 09:32 PM

And the right side, still needs a few tweaks.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 31 2020, 09:27 PM

Left side welded in, and a quick grinding. A few spots to re-weld and then grind it pretty.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 1 2020, 10:42 PM

Finishing up #4. Here's the left side done.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 1 2020, 10:43 PM

And from the inside.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 1 2020, 10:45 PM

Right side welded in.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 1 2020, 10:46 PM

And ground down to almost pretty.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 1 2020, 10:48 PM

Since the front floor corners are where the front jack point donuts, mount, I decided to reinforce things on the inside.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 1 2020, 10:49 PM

Left side welded in.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 1 2020, 10:49 PM

And the right side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 1 2020, 10:51 PM

While welding in the neighborhood, I filled in some holes in the floor from where a PO pop-riveted some sheet metal in a cheesy attempt to cover the holes in the floor.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 1 2020, 10:52 PM

With all the preliminaries down, its time to fit and weld in the rear floor panel. To make that easier, and avoid any asymmetric sag with the car sideways, I rotated the car to upside-down.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Kansas 914 Feb 2 2020, 07:47 AM

While I have been hibernating you have been busy.

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 2 2020, 09:22 PM

Got the floor panel fitted today. My plan to is do a few spot welds along the sides, tack a few spots on the butt seam with the front floor, and a few short beads along the rear edge. Then I can flip it sideways again to get all the flanges on the inside.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 3 2020, 08:25 PM

Before welding on the new floor section, I painted the areas that will be inaccessible (inside the center tunnel and the firewall). That's Rustoleum self-etching primer.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 3 2020, 08:28 PM

While waiting for paint to dry, I started work on the rust at the base of the A-pillars. This is the right side. Note the small hole above the sill edge (and remember the car is currently upside down). That was probably from when somebody pulled the pillar straight from a previous collision--and did not bother to fix it.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 3 2020, 08:32 PM

Here is the rusted section cut out, after removing part of the sill edge.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 3 2020, 08:34 PM

And a cardboard template for the patch. (The left side is about the same, maybe a bit smaller.)


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 4 2020, 09:38 PM

No garage time today, but got some more body parts from AA and RD.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: sixnotfour Feb 5 2020, 02:18 AM

beer.gif


Attached image(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 5 2020, 10:08 PM

Great. Now I have to check the rotisserie lock.

Posted by: raynekat Feb 6 2020, 05:56 PM

Yep.....just a whee bit left of the tin worm in there.
Doing a great job there Dr. Bob!

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 6 2020, 10:02 PM

Thanks, Doug. I may need to pick your brain soon. I hear little voices telling me about how I should "improve" the car and deviate from a stock restoration.

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 6 2020, 10:03 PM

Back to 914 work today. First up: finish the A-pillar patches. Here is the right side patch in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 6 2020, 10:04 PM

And welded in, ready for grinding.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 6 2020, 10:05 PM

Left side patch, a bit more challenging since the base of the A-pillar is curved inward for clearance for the fuel vapor hoses.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 6 2020, 10:06 PM

Tack-welded.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 6 2020, 10:09 PM

Finally on to attaching the new floor section. Here it is after tack-welding the butt seam (with metal work during welding to improve alignment), about 1/3 of the plug welds along the sills, and a few tack welds along the rear seam.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 7 2020, 09:37 PM

Allright! I flipped the car to right side up, and started work on the new floor cross member. Here is the piece as it cam from RD, with the ends notched for flange tabs but not bent.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 7 2020, 09:38 PM

After measuring and bending, here is one end after bending some.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 7 2020, 09:39 PM

After more fitting and bending, here is the cross member installed ready for welding.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Trophy Feb 8 2020, 12:13 PM

Nice work you are doing, what sort of tools are you using for the job, Welder's, spot weld cutters etc?

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 8 2020, 08:58 PM

Thanks. I have mostly electrical tools: 4.5 inch grinders (new Hein and old Bosch) with cutting, grinding, and flap-sanding discs, Makita die grinder with 2 inch cut-off discs and carbide grinding bits, Rigid reciprocating saw, plus cordless drills, drill press, etc. For welding, I have a Hobart MIG and Easton TIG. 95% of the welding on car sheet metal is MIG. For metal forming I just have some hammers, including body work hammers, dollys, and miscellaneous bits of metal bars or angles. I have been cutting spot welds with the Blair 3/8 inch cutter (and lots of bits to stay sharp) as well as standard drill bits.

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 8 2020, 09:05 PM

Just some incremental work today, mostly rescuing the brackets on the floor cross brace that hold the teeth for the seat tilt mechanism. Here is the left side, still attached to the section I cut out of the rusty floor.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 8 2020, 09:06 PM

Here's the bracket and surrounding sheet metal cut out.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 8 2020, 09:08 PM

And finally both brackets, after removal of old sheet metal and welds, and initial cleanup.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 9 2020, 10:11 PM

Some progress on welding inside the floor panel, including the cross member. Until I ran out of MIG wire (next time, buy 2 spools).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 9 2020, 10:15 PM

Also progress on the A-pillar bases. Ground down the welds on the left side.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 9 2020, 10:15 PM

And the missing piece of the sill ledge, in place for welding.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 9 2020, 10:16 PM

Right side ground down.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 9 2020, 10:17 PM

And right sill edge piece.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: horizontally-opposed Feb 9 2020, 10:22 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Feb 9 2020, 08:17 PM) *

And right sill edge piece.


^ Nice work—in an inspiring thread...wow!

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 10 2020, 10:11 PM

QUOTE(horizontally-opposed @ Feb 9 2020, 09:22 PM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Feb 9 2020, 08:17 PM) *

And right sill edge piece.


^ Nice work—in an inspiring thread...wow!


Thanks. Nothing fancy or as quality as some really talented people can do. I just figure I can learn by doing and get something functionally better.

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 10 2020, 10:12 PM

Right sill edge welded.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 10 2020, 10:14 PM

Right side floor interior welding done. Still a challenge to get the plug welds functional and pretty. I go for functional first.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 12 2020, 10:54 PM

And the left side done. Getting a little better at plug welding.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 12 2020, 10:56 PM

Left side sill ledge piece. Had a couple of burn-throughs so these beads are a bit fat.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 12 2020, 10:58 PM

An overall shot of the car--feeling like I have made some progress, and maybe over the hump. (At least this hump)


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 14 2020, 09:34 PM

So after 3 days of measuring and fitting and aligning, I was confident enough to weld in the seat bracket mounts. I did the hinges and floor mounts first, then lined up the front bracket that holds the tilt adjustment teeth.

Here's the left side:


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 14 2020, 09:35 PM

And with the seat mount in place. It tilts!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 14 2020, 09:36 PM

And the right side:



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 14 2020, 09:37 PM

This side tilts, too!



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 14 2020, 09:38 PM

Only one more thing to weld on the floor interior. Any guesses?


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bbrock Feb 14 2020, 10:08 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Feb 14 2020, 08:38 PM) *

Only one more thing to weld on the floor interior. Any guesses?


Carpet buttons.

Posted by: Kansas 914 Feb 15 2020, 07:37 AM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Feb 14 2020, 08:38 PM) *

Only one more thing to weld on the floor interior. Any guesses?


E-brake mount?

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 15 2020, 09:04 PM

QUOTE(Kansas 914 @ Feb 15 2020, 06:37 AM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Feb 14 2020, 08:38 PM) *

Only one more thing to weld on the floor interior. Any guesses?


E-brake mount?


Here it is.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 15 2020, 09:04 PM

QUOTE(bbrock @ Feb 14 2020, 09:08 PM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Feb 14 2020, 08:38 PM) *

Only one more thing to weld on the floor interior. Any guesses?


Carpet buttons.


Not planning to put these in--but you have a good eye!

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 15 2020, 09:07 PM

While the car is upright, I started welding in the rear cross member brace that goes on top of the trunk floor.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat Feb 16 2020, 06:04 PM

Lots of great work going on there Bob. Keep it rolling. beer.gif

Posted by: FourBlades Feb 16 2020, 06:39 PM


Great job!

Getting close now.

John

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 16 2020, 08:50 PM

Thanks, guys. Starting to eye the firewall and hell hole.

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 16 2020, 08:51 PM

Bottom of the floor is nearly done! I flipped the car upside down to weld on the seat reinforcing strips and finish the welding along the butt seam between the front and rear sections.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 16 2020, 08:53 PM

Also welded on the front jacking donuts. Feeling good about the reinforcements I put on the inside surface of the floor above these.

Once I weld the rear floor edge seam, I can attache the rear gussets and donuts and the floor will be done!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 17 2020, 09:28 PM

Got to the rear seam, at the base of the firewall in the engine compartment. Plug welded all the way across plus seam welding the edge of the center tunnel, just like original.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 17 2020, 09:29 PM

Last job on the floor: the rear corner gussets and jacking donuts. Here is on as it came from RD.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 17 2020, 09:30 PM

And after trimming to fit and punching holes.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 17 2020, 09:31 PM

Here's the right side welded in.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 17 2020, 09:32 PM

And the left side. The floor is done!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 17 2020, 09:33 PM

Here's a preview of what is next: firewall, inner fender wall, and top of sill.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 19 2020, 09:47 PM

OK, now for what everyone has been waiting for (at least me): the hell hole, or what George wants us to call the slightly rusty battery area.

Here is the first cut taking out the rusty section of the firewall, mostly above the seam with the engine shelf.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 19 2020, 09:49 PM

Some of the rust extended below the shelf/upper-lower panel seam, down to the top of the sill.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 19 2020, 09:52 PM

Next, cutting out the top of the sill, and trying to separate the inner and outer layers of sheet metal. For now I stopped cutting where the outer layer shows only moderate to light pitting.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 19 2020, 09:53 PM

The good news: inside the sill I found only very minor surface rust, even on the bottom.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 19 2020, 09:56 PM

Now for the big hole, after cutting the inner fender wall from just above the battery tray level down to the sill.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 19 2020, 09:57 PM

Another view.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 19 2020, 09:58 PM

And from inside the rear fender.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 19 2020, 10:00 PM

A look at the engine mount.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 19 2020, 10:01 PM

Investigating between the back side of the mount and the sill face, seems like something is missing.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 21 2020, 09:13 PM

After deliberation and input from others on 914World (thanks!) I decided to leave the engine mount in place, at least for now. I dosed the joint between the mount and the sill with Corroseal.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 21 2020, 09:15 PM

Now to start filling in the holes I cut. Here's the patch for the inner fender wall, cut from the larger reproduction panel I got from AA.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bbrock Feb 22 2020, 10:18 AM

I think you made the right call on that engine mount. As usual. I'm in awe of the speed and quality of your work.

Posted by: Kansas 914 Feb 22 2020, 11:00 AM

QUOTE(bbrock @ Feb 22 2020, 09:18 AM) *

I think you made the right call on that engine mount. As usual. I'm in awe of the speed and quality of your work.

agree.gif

I have seen this project in person a few times. The quality and speed of work is there but more importantly to note is Bob is a one man show. Very inspiring!

Posted by: FourBlades Feb 22 2020, 01:09 PM


Nice, neat welding job! welder.gif

You are making record time.

John

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 22 2020, 09:13 PM

Thanks, guys. I am lucky to have the time to play restoration almost every day.

Posted by: raynekat Feb 23 2020, 12:34 AM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Feb 22 2020, 07:13 PM) *

Thanks, guys. I am lucky to have the time to play restoration almost every day.


Yeah...your'e a slacker big time. Haha

Betch you miss Alaska?

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 23 2020, 08:26 PM

QUOTE(raynekat @ Feb 22 2020, 11:34 PM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Feb 22 2020, 07:13 PM) *

Thanks, guys. I am lucky to have the time to play restoration almost every day.


Yeah...your'e a slacker big time. Haha

Betch you miss Alaska?


Sometimes, but not so much in the extra long dark winter. Colorado mountains are at least as good, and the driving around here is way better.

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 23 2020, 08:27 PM

Before welding the inner patch in place, I wanted to take advantage of the hole to access the inside of the outer fender panel. This had a PO repair with LOTS of bondo.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 23 2020, 08:28 PM

The fill was at least 1/8 across the entire panel.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 23 2020, 08:30 PM

To minimize the mess I mounted the Fein dust shield on the angle grinder. Not 100% but much better than without it.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 23 2020, 08:31 PM

Got the panel cleaned up, and did some initial smoothing. More work to come.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 23 2020, 08:35 PM

I also started on the top of the sill. This normally has two layers of sheet metal, but I decided to add a third inner layer patch. This extends about 2 inches forward and rear of the hole.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 23 2020, 08:36 PM

Here it is welded in place. I will need to grind this down to fit the "middle" panel patch.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 23 2020, 08:37 PM

And at the same time I tack welded the inner fender wall patch, and got the edges aligned.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 24 2020, 09:42 PM

Did some grinding and then tried to finish the butt seam welding around the patch. Got it done, but very frustrating with lots of burn-throughs. The final result is ugly, with lots of thick spot welds and big boogers. That will lead to more quality time with my grinder.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 26 2020, 09:29 PM

After a couple of hours of quality time with my angle grinder and die grinder, things are looking better. A few spots and holes to re-weld.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 26 2020, 09:31 PM

Getting ready for the next patch, the outer layer on the top of the sill.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 27 2020, 09:03 PM

I feel like I am in a groundhog day loop with the inner fender wall patch. After grinding yesterday, I checked the weld with a light inside the fender. This revealed a Buch of pin holes and thin spots, and a few segments where the weld did not penetrate.

So weld (#2) all suspect areas.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 27 2020, 09:04 PM

And grind (#2).



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 27 2020, 09:05 PM

Check with the light inside again, more holes!

Weld (#3).



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 27 2020, 09:06 PM

Tomorrow, if I hear Sonny and Cher on the garage radio, I may go back to bed.

Posted by: bbrock Feb 27 2020, 09:19 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Feb 27 2020, 08:06 PM) *

Tomorrow, if I hear Sonny and Cher on the garage radio, I may go back to bed.

Boy do I know that pinhole routine. Thank goodness I never woke up to I've Got You Babe. av-943.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 28 2020, 09:25 PM

Well, I was hearing "I got you babe" again today for sure.

After grinding (3rd time) I had more holes and bad weld bits, especially in one spot.

So I finally did the right thing (I hope) and cut out the worst section. The size and shape shows where I was chasing a growing hole, especially into the original sheet metal.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 28 2020, 09:28 PM

I formed a new mini-patch and welded it in place--much better.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 28 2020, 09:30 PM

At the same time, I welded a few more holes around the original patch (4th time), and then ground them down (4th time). A quick look showed only a couple of pin hole around the new mini-patch. I might be able to beat the groundhog!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 28 2020, 09:32 PM

BTW, here in the back(!) side of the small area I cut out. Pretty nasty (and not the work quality I am aiming for).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 29 2020, 10:12 PM

I beat the groundhog!

I did hear a faint echo of Sonny and Cher, but after welding and grinding just 3 or 4 spots, the inner fender wall patch is done. Not pretty, but should finish fine after some cosmetic work later on.




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 29 2020, 10:13 PM

Now time to move on. Here is the middle layer patch for the top of the sill, final fit.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 29 2020, 10:15 PM

And welded in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Feb 29 2020, 10:16 PM

And here is the top layer patch, nearly fitted.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 1 2020, 09:36 PM

Started welding on the last layer, beginning with the flange against the inner fender wall. Nice to have the car on the rotisserie, so I could weld with the flange and fender wall horizontal.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 1 2020, 09:40 PM

I ground down the welds along the flange and they looked good, so went on the weld the main part of the patch. Mostly straight-forward, except along the seam against the remaining original pitted metal. That led to some more ugly welds.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 1 2020, 09:42 PM

I still have to grind this down and check the weld success, but I am happy to be close to done on closing up the hell hole, only 6 months after I cut a hole in the top to explore for internal rust.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: tygaboy Mar 1 2020, 10:56 PM

A bit of sawzall-smiley.gif smash.gif welder.gif

And now some piratenanner.gif aktion035.gif smilie_pokal.gif

Super job! Isn't it a great feeling when it's "job done"? Keep up the great work and detailed documentation.

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 2 2020, 09:55 PM

Thanks. Milestones are good for my mental health, as are my documentations and posts.

Anyway, here is the finished (for now) product. A bit lumpy, but it should be functional and look OK, especially after prep and paint.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 2 2020, 09:56 PM

On to the firewall. Here's a cardboard template fit for the lower patch.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 4 2020, 08:44 PM

Small patch cut and formed, with holes in the flanges for plug welds.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 4 2020, 08:45 PM

Final fit.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 4 2020, 08:46 PM

After welding and grinding. Now time for the bigger hole...


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 4 2020, 08:47 PM

And from the engine side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 5 2020, 10:02 PM

Spent about an hour today working on forming the upper firewall patch, including the diagonal raised ribs. Still needs more work in the complex corner on the right side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: FourBlades Mar 6 2020, 08:13 AM


Looking good!

You are making good progress.

John

Posted by: 9146C Mar 6 2020, 09:20 AM

Very impressed with your fabrication work!

Posted by: tygaboy Mar 6 2020, 09:26 AM

Fabricationlous! smash.gif Nice looking patch piece. You're making great progress. smilie_pokal.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 6 2020, 06:03 PM

Thank, guys. Just a bit of time to play body shop today. The corner fold looks better, and I am ready to trim this patch.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 7 2020, 09:44 PM

Spent a couple of hours fitting the new patch. After the initial cut, I had it in and out about a dozen times--definitely trying to attain the Zen level of patience. Here it is near the end of fitting trials.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 7 2020, 09:45 PM

And after tack-welding. Time for more patience.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 8 2020, 07:09 PM

Welding done, and initial grinding. Might be a few spots to touch up.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 10 2020, 08:43 PM

On to the last thing in the hell hole area: the right engine shelf. Here is the piece from RD.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 10 2020, 08:45 PM

First fit check after my initial trim. I need only the front half of the shelf, and a bit more of the rubber seal channel.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 10 2020, 08:46 PM

And after about a dozen cycles of check, trim, bend, repeat. About 90% fitted.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat Mar 10 2020, 10:49 PM

Looks good Bob.

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 11 2020, 07:48 PM

Thanks, Doug. Still lots to do on the body shell (finish the shelf, remount the front fender, straighten the rear fender and rear panel, miscellaneous brackets and braces) and then both doors and the replacement trunk lid need a bit of work.

But we do this for fun, right?

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 12 2020, 08:25 PM

Had a couple of hours of garage time and worked to finish the fit. I could not get both ends just right, so I tried tack welding one end and working the fit as I welded towards the other end. Seemed to work OK.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Lilchopshop Mar 13 2020, 08:14 AM

Bob, I'm really enjoying your thread! Thank you for the excellent documentation! Its great to see that top-level workmanship can still be achieved without a fully-outfitted fabrication shop. This will be a great reference for me as I go through my project.

beerchug.gif

Posted by: tygaboy Mar 13 2020, 08:42 AM

I'm going to start calling you Bob "Dunwright".

Thanks for saving your car and installing so very much love into it. Great stuff. smilie_pokal.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 13 2020, 08:36 PM

Thanks, guys. Encouragement always helps.

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 13 2020, 08:41 PM

Got the engine shelf welding done. I am pretty happy with results except where I fumbled the grinder inside the groove for the rubber engine shelf seal. I will probably splice in a piece to fix this.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 13 2020, 08:43 PM

On to the rest of the issues in the engine compartment. First is the right trunk hinge bracket. Grinding out the old, torn bracket resulted in a couple of small holes (and some brass from the brazing done by the PO).



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 13 2020, 08:44 PM

After welding the grind the holes.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 13 2020, 08:46 PM

And after measuring, and re-measuring, I tack-welded the new bracket in place. I will triple-check the position tomorrow and finish the welds.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 13 2020, 08:48 PM

Meanwhile, I started the next task. Both the left and right engine lid hinge brackets were torn out. The PO "fixed" these by bolting through the firewall. Left side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 13 2020, 08:48 PM

Right side.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 13 2020, 08:50 PM

I cut out just enough to get straight edges, and did a bit of metal work to even things up. Left side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 13 2020, 08:50 PM

And right side. I will cut some patches tomorrow.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 14 2020, 08:07 PM

When I measured the right trunk hinge bracket today, I found it to be about 1/8 inch low. So I cut off the tack welds, repositioned, measured about 5 more times, and welded it in for good (I hope). My MIG welder is acting funny, so I may grind these semi-ugly welds and redo it once I figure out what is wrong.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 14 2020, 08:09 PM

Back to the engine lid hinges, here's the patch for the left side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 14 2020, 08:11 PM

And the right side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 14 2020, 08:11 PM

Left side bracket in position.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 14 2020, 08:12 PM

And welded.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 14 2020, 08:13 PM

And right side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat Mar 14 2020, 08:56 PM

Yeah, those engine lid brackets need to be in the correct position. If too low, your engine lid will be too low and have a big gap on the leading edge. If too hight you could use some washers to space the lid down to the correct height.

Moral...better to be too high than too low.

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 15 2020, 08:19 PM

I will find out before too much longer. Before any final body and paint work I plan to mount all the lids and doors to check alignment.

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 15 2020, 08:20 PM

Last task in the engine compartment area is dealing with the festival of holes in the firewall, left by POs.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 15 2020, 08:21 PM

Here's my favorite. How and why did somebody do this?



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 15 2020, 08:24 PM

After straightening the sheet metal at some holes, I got the grinder with the paint stripping disk busy.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 15 2020, 08:27 PM

Looking ahead to the next job: repairing the sides of the cowl panel where it meets the tops of the front fenders. The front trunk lid opened too far, probably many times, and made contact with the cowl weatherstrip channel. This deformed the channel and tore the corner joint.

Here is the right side, where I have previously removed the fender.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 15 2020, 08:28 PM

And the left side.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 15 2020, 08:29 PM

But the left side had a surprise! First, some bondo in the channel, hiding distortion of the channel side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 15 2020, 08:32 PM

And then LOTS of bondo on the cowl top surface, hiding a big divot in the sheet metal. I can imagine the trunk lid flying up and whacking the cowl hard enough to bend it. But I can't imagine why somebody did not straighten it better, before slathering on 1/4 of bondo.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 16 2020, 09:03 PM

Festival of holes, part 2, is done. I patched and welded all the holes in the passenger side firewall...



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 16 2020, 09:04 PM

...driver side firewall...



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 16 2020, 09:05 PM

...and dash under-panel. Plus the front right inner fender wall.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat Mar 16 2020, 10:34 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Mar 15 2020, 07:19 PM) *

I will find out before too much longer. Before any final body and paint work I plan to mount all the lids and doors to check alignment.


Put windows in the doors and seals too.
I had a big issue of the doors seeming to fit, but when I installed the door glass and seals, nothing fit above the doors.
Meaning the opening for the side glass in the doors wasn't wide enough.

It necessitated me to push the entire windshield assembly, posts and all, forward.
Not the best of situations.
I accomplished it though and the side windows fit much better.

Posted by: raynekat Mar 16 2020, 10:35 PM

Bob....seems like you're going to have a field day grinding down all your welds?
Or are you doing it as you go?

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 17 2020, 08:28 PM

I try to spend time grinding as I go, but I have fallen behind. I definitely have some grinding party days ahead.

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 17 2020, 08:30 PM

Speaking of grinding, at least bondo grinding, I decided to check out the right side of the cowl. Sure enough, about 1/8 inch of bondo. And then another surprise (but not completely).



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 17 2020, 08:33 PM

I guess PO decided not to have a radio antenna.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 17 2020, 08:35 PM

Got the Dremel tool out and cut the brazing. The hole is whole again.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 17 2020, 08:37 PM

And in keeping with PO repair quality, check the piece they brazed on the underside. Nice shape!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 17 2020, 08:42 PM

One more job for the grinder: the left front fender. And if you are keeping score, this means the only panel not (yet) subject to repair or replacement is the left rear fender.

Anyway, I knew the front part of the fender had been repaired, with puller holes showing on the inside and some filler. Turns out quite a bit of filler.

The metal can be made lots better.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bbrock Mar 17 2020, 09:29 PM

Am I seeing right that the antenna hole is in the cowl? I've never seen one mounted there. Usually on driver's side fender or sometimes passenger side.

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 18 2020, 08:31 PM

Thats my guess for the purpose of the hole. Now you reminded me to do more research for the standard location for 1973.

In any case, the metal is not really strong enough there.

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 18 2020, 08:37 PM

Just a little time today to play 914, so I worked more on the right side of the cowl. I got the alignment pretty good, but the channel might need replacing.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 19 2020, 08:17 PM

Finished the festival of holes, with step 3: grinding. Here is the right side of the firewall.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 19 2020, 08:17 PM

And the left side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 19 2020, 08:18 PM

And the dash under-panel.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 19 2020, 08:20 PM

I also refilled the antenna hole in the right cowl. Besides not being a stock location, the metal is not strong or stiff enough. Here is a patch cut to fit from genuine 914 sheet metal.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 19 2020, 08:21 PM

Welded in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 19 2020, 08:22 PM

And after a quick grinding.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: FourBlades Mar 20 2020, 07:40 AM


Nice work as always! smile.gif

You are really good at welding thin sheet metal.

Do you use copper backers or just have a really skillful trigger finger?

Do find the spark to be distorted when using strong magnets nearby?

John

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 20 2020, 09:02 PM

Thanks. I have a copper spoon and use it whenever I can. I have also learned (the hard way) to weld one dot at a time.

I have not noticed any affect from the magnets.

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 21 2020, 08:08 PM

I got to try my latest tool acquisition: a shrinking disk. This is a polished stainless steel disk with a raised edge. On the grinder, it spins against sheet metal and the friction creates local heat. A quick spray of water cools and shrinks the hot spot.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 21 2020, 08:10 PM

I did this for about 20 minutes on the left side of the cowl, where previous deformation and repair had stretched the metal and created a 4 inch spot that oil-canned up and down. The shrinking worked great and made the cowl section flatter and more rigid.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 21 2020, 08:11 PM

After the shrinking work, I decided to cut out a smaller area than planned.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 21 2020, 08:12 PM

And I had time to fit a cardboard template for the patch. Too bad metal does not work as fast.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 22 2020, 08:11 PM

Translating cardboard into recycled 914 sheet metal. Here is the piece cut out and marked.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 22 2020, 08:13 PM

And after an hour of metal work, I had this. I evened managed to get some curvature in the piece.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 22 2020, 08:15 PM

And fitted into place.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 22 2020, 08:18 PM

While in the mood, I started on the last big job--reinstalling the right front fender. Here's the mounting flange on the A-pillar after cutting out a segment that was mangled.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 22 2020, 08:21 PM

And a small patch ready for welding.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 23 2020, 08:49 PM

MIG time today. First, the patch in the left side of the cowl.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 23 2020, 08:50 PM

Then a bit of grinding.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 23 2020, 08:51 PM

And then another session with the shrinking disk, to get the profile near right.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 23 2020, 08:52 PM

Then the right side, welding up the semi-rotten metal in the trough.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 23 2020, 08:53 PM

And ground down.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 23 2020, 08:54 PM

Finally, the section of the fender mounting flange.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 23 2020, 08:56 PM

Looking ahead, the next job is the last big task on the body shell: remounting the right front fender that I cut off months ago to start this restoration.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 23 2020, 08:57 PM

The fender needs a little work first, along the leading edge where it meets the side of the front panel, by the end of the bumper.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 24 2020, 07:43 PM

Got to work on the fender today. Here it is in a quick jig to stabilize it while I removed the crumple along the leading edge bumper recess. And my big movement tools (section of 2x4 and 4 lb hammer).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 24 2020, 07:45 PM

With the recess 90% straight, the next step is stripping paint to expose the bare metal. Guess what--bondo!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 24 2020, 07:46 PM

And with metal exposed, I can see what I need to fix: mostly along the leading 3 or 4 inches.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 25 2020, 08:10 PM

Before any more metal work, I wanted to see how the fender fits overall. Here is it roughly in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 25 2020, 08:10 PM

Another view.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 25 2020, 08:14 PM

Besides dealing with the seam along the top, inside the weatherstrip channel, and the fit along the rear, the biggest challenge is the front, where the fender meets the front panel. Both were deformed, so I can't use one to guide the other.

Time for lots more measurements and comparing distances and angles from right side to left side. And also check against the frunk lid and bumper.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 25 2020, 08:16 PM

Looking inside the fender, where it meets the mounting flange on the A-pillar.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 25 2020, 08:18 PM

And from the back side of the A-pillar.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 25 2020, 08:20 PM

Yep, some quality time ahead.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: 911GT2 Mar 26 2020, 06:28 AM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Mar 23 2020, 06:49 PM) *

MIG time today. First, the patch in the left side of the cowl.

I think it would help to set the wire feed just a bit down. welder.gif
Less time grinding the welds down.

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 26 2020, 07:28 PM

QUOTE(911GT2 @ Mar 26 2020, 06:28 AM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Mar 23 2020, 06:49 PM) *

MIG time today. First, the patch in the left side of the cowl.

I think it would help to set the wire feed just a bit down. welder.gif
Less time grinding the welds down.



Thanks for the suggestion. Each day it seems like the MIG responds differently.

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 26 2020, 07:33 PM

After more tweaks and bends, and cutting the top seam to fit, I clamped the fender in place. I then started measuring and comparing from right side to left side.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 26 2020, 07:35 PM

I also propped the frunk lid in place, a good reference since this piece (not from this car) is almost certainly straight.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 26 2020, 07:37 PM

Fit by the cowl (the fender is just a bit low and too far out).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 26 2020, 07:39 PM

The front corner. The front panel still needs to shift inward, confirmed by measured lengths and angles.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 26 2020, 07:41 PM

Along the headlight box, nearly there.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 26 2020, 07:42 PM

A-pillar inside.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 26 2020, 07:46 PM

A-pillar outside.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 27 2020, 08:32 PM

Still trying to assess and adjust the fender fit. I would like to bolt on the door, but really can't without setting the body down from the rotisserie, and removing the braces (which would require cutting). So I made a cardboard template directly from the door, and got it as close as I could accounting for the curvature. I think it is accurate except for the upper part of the leading edge.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 27 2020, 08:34 PM

Gaps are about 3/16 inch front...


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 27 2020, 08:34 PM

And rear. I don't think the fender should shift any more rearward (and probably not forward).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 28 2020, 06:45 PM

No 914 work today. I did some office work in the morning, and then started on a big outdoor project: removing and thinning the scrub oak that are too close to the house. This should help reduce danger from brush fires.

Here's the boss checking the first 10 minutes of work.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 29 2020, 07:44 PM

After more brush clearing, I got back to the 914, still in measuring mode. I marked more reference points, and compared distances and angles from right to left.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 29 2020, 07:44 PM

And more.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 29 2020, 07:46 PM

I also installed the eyebrows, as another way to check alignment and compare. Here's the right side from above.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 29 2020, 07:47 PM

Left side from above.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 29 2020, 07:47 PM

Right side from in front.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 29 2020, 07:48 PM

Left side from in front.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 29 2020, 07:51 PM

To me, the alignment looks pretty good--about as good on the right as on the left, and the dimensions are within 1/16 from side to side in most cases.

The only mismatch is the recess in the fender lap edge, where it clears the mounting area in the headlight box for the pivot.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 29 2020, 07:52 PM

Compared to the left side, where the recess sits more centered above the mounting point.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 30 2020, 08:27 PM

With the encouragement from fellow 914Worlders, I decided to do the right thing and mount the door in order to assure a good fit for the front fender. To do that, I had to remove the interior brace. And to do that, I had to lower the car onto jack stands and take the weight off the rotisserie mounts.

Odd to see the interior looking empty, without the brace for the first time in months.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 30 2020, 08:29 PM

I had doubts that the brace could come out in one piece, but with a bit of persuasion it did.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 30 2020, 08:34 PM

Here's the door in place, without much adjustment.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 30 2020, 08:36 PM

The rear gap looks just a bit narrow, but even from top to bottom.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 30 2020, 08:37 PM

The front gap is a little wider, but also even.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 30 2020, 08:39 PM

At the top, where the door, fender, and cowl come together, it looks good (the top of the door needs to move in--easy adjustment). I am feeling good about the fender position fit.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: sixnotfour Mar 30 2020, 08:49 PM

confused24.gif


Attached image(s)
Attached Image Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat Mar 30 2020, 09:13 PM

Bob, my car has a slightly wider door gap in the leading edge (front) vs the trailing edge (rear). Just like yours. Now that doesn't mean it's correct, but that's just how mine is.

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 31 2020, 08:43 PM

Somewhere between OCD perfection and famous 914 factory imprecision is the happy way. Or just keep the car in the dark.

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 31 2020, 08:45 PM

Once last session to check the fender fit. I adjusted the door to align better.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 31 2020, 08:47 PM

The final judgement: this is good enough to proceed, and get the fender welded on.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Kansas 914 Apr 1 2020, 05:46 AM

Great work Bob!

I should have my cars out of their Winter nap soon if you need reference.

Happy April - stay well - cheers!

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 1 2020, 07:55 PM

Thanks, Mike. I agree that we got our last snow in town, and the city has been cleaning the grit off the roads.

I appreciate your offer, and will probably come up with questions and needs for measurements!

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 1 2020, 07:56 PM

Getting on with the final fender fit, working on all the seams and junctions now, starting with the top seam near the cowl.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 1 2020, 07:57 PM

And near the headlight box.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 1 2020, 07:59 PM

And the junction with the front panel. Fun fitting lumpy to lumpy.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 2 2020, 08:04 PM

More fiddly work today. Welded the holes and tears in the fender, and some other minor bits.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 2 2020, 08:07 PM

And some adjustments to the front flange and the tabs on the headlight box wall.

I sure hope all this slow, deliberate fitting before I weld the fender on pays off.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 3 2020, 07:46 PM

No 914 work today, since I spent the afternoon clearing brush and got pretty tired. But at least that job is done in time for our annual city curbside waste collection next week.

I did have enough energy to sit, look over the car, and make a list of all the things still to do before the rough body work is done. Even with some detail, the list fits on one page. The end is in sight!!!



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 4 2020, 08:48 PM

Last prep job is filling the gap in the weatherstrip channel. When I cut the fender for removal last year, I sliced down the middle of the channel.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 4 2020, 08:49 PM

Here's the patch, made from more recycled 914 sheet metal. I even got some curvature to match the overall arc.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 4 2020, 08:50 PM

Welded in place, ground down, and trimmed to fit.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 4 2020, 08:53 PM

And finally, after fooling with it for almost 2 weeks, here is the fender welded in place. The alignment looks good--I hope I can say that after final assembly with the frunk lid and bumper in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 5 2020, 08:19 PM

Today, I finished the rest of the plug welds inside and along the front seams, and did some quick grinding.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 5 2020, 08:20 PM

And completed welding the seam in the top channel. The fender should be pretty well stuck on.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 5 2020, 08:23 PM

I removed the door, re-installed the interior brace, and lifted the car off the jack stands. Next is the first of the "minor" list jobs, tidying up the rear panel.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 6 2020, 08:33 PM

Got a start today, on the left side. When I last touched this area in December, I left some crude weld spots.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 6 2020, 08:34 PM

After some grinding, a quick check of tail light fit.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 7 2020, 07:57 PM

Another day without 914 progress. My excuse is that I played tire shop today, and swapped out snow tires for summer or off road rubber on my 991, Benz wagon, and Suburban.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Kansas 914 Apr 8 2020, 09:27 AM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Apr 7 2020, 06:57 PM) *

Another day without 914 progress. My excuse is that I played tire shop today, and swapped out snow tires for summer or off road rubber on my 991, Benz wagon, and Suburban.

Well Done!

My goal is too wake the cars up today - uncover - start them up - get them in the sunshine and fill them with fresh gas!


Posted by: bkrantz Apr 9 2020, 08:00 PM

I had a couple of hours today for 914 work. That was enough to finish up the left trunk corner.

Here is the gusset/trunk lid bumper stop in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 9 2020, 08:03 PM

After welding and grinding. I have to fill some gaps and build up missing metal.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 9 2020, 08:05 PM

And a quick check with the tail light in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: gms Apr 9 2020, 08:37 PM

The car is coming along nice!

Posted by: frostyf Apr 9 2020, 10:38 PM

Just wanted to say, I'm stuck in due to COVID and was browsing through the world (as a favourite past-time) and have just gone through your thread from start to finish. Its really inspiring to see your approach and welding skills - thank you for the detailed photos. Might make me consider approaching some of the welding my 73 is going to need before too long. Great work and can't wait to see the rest!


Posted by: bkrantz Apr 10 2020, 09:19 PM

Thanks, guys. I always appreciate the encouragement.

Posted by: Bmw635 Apr 10 2020, 11:43 PM

Need to find a house with a shop like yours. Life would have been easier.

Posted by: Superhawk996 Apr 11 2020, 07:10 AM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Apr 7 2020, 09:57 PM) *

Another day without 914 progress. My excuse is that I played tire shop today, and swapped out snow tires for summer or off road rubber on my 991, Benz wagon, and Suburban.



Great Job. If only more people would run the appropriate tire for the season. Don't get me wrong I've run all season tires too but the fact is all season tire = stromberg.gif They are just a compromise at everything.


And on a serarate note, the car is coming along nicely! aktion035.gif

Posted by: bbrock Apr 11 2020, 08:08 AM

QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Apr 11 2020, 06:10 AM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Apr 7 2020, 09:57 PM) *

Another day without 914 progress. My excuse is that I played tire shop today, and swapped out snow tires for summer or off road rubber on my 991, Benz wagon, and Suburban.



Great Job. If only more people would run the appropriate tire for the season. Don't get me wrong I've run all season tires too but the fact is all season tire = stromberg.gif They are just a compromise at everything.


Wait... what? All-season tires are my go-to SUMMER tire. No way would I run a true summer tire around here. Here it is Easter weekend and I'm getting ready to go outside to hook up the snow plow. Expecting up to 9 inches over the weekend and we already have a good start on it.

Love the progress on the build. You've done a couple years of work here since what... October? Amazing. pray.gif

Posted by: Superhawk996 Apr 11 2020, 12:00 PM

QUOTE(bbrock @ Apr 11 2020, 10:08 AM) *

QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Apr 11 2020, 06:10 AM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Apr 7 2020, 09:57 PM) *

Another day without 914 progress. My excuse is that I played tire shop today, and swapped out snow tires for summer or off road rubber on my 991, Benz wagon, and Suburban.



Great Job. If only more people would run the appropriate tire for the season. Don't get me wrong I've run all season tires too but the fact is all season tire = stromberg.gif They are just a compromise at everything.


Wait... what? All-season tires are my go-to SUMMER tire. No way would I run a true summer tire around here. Here it is Easter weekend and I'm getting ready to go outside to hook up the snow plow. Expecting up to 9 inches over the weekend and we already have a good start on it.

Love the progress on the build. You've done a couple years of work here since what... October? Amazing. pray.gif


@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=20845

In your locale, you should probably just have two cars. One with summer tires to be used Jul-Sep, and one with winter tires for the rest of the year. Easier than swapping tires. av-943.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 11 2020, 08:34 PM

QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Apr 11 2020, 07:10 AM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Apr 7 2020, 09:57 PM) *

Another day without 914 progress. My excuse is that I played tire shop today, and swapped out snow tires for summer or off road rubber on my 991, Benz wagon, and Suburban.



Great Job. If only more people would run the appropriate tire for the season. Don't get me wrong I've run all season tires too but the fact is all season tire = stromberg.gif They are just a compromise at everything.


And on a serarate note, the car is coming along nicely! aktion035.gif


I was semi-dedicated to running real snow tires until I lived in Alaska, and then I became a true believer. Now my challenge is the variable seasons around SW Colorado, depending on elevation and which way I head. This time of year, it can feel like summer down low, but the high passes still get snow.

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 11 2020, 08:36 PM

Today, I started on the right trunk corner, with bigger challenges than the left side. I have the same crude welding and gaps at the upper edge junction.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 11 2020, 08:38 PM

But a bigger issue is where the inner and outer fender panels meet around the tail light opening. The edges are pretty chewed up.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 11 2020, 08:40 PM

View from the inside.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 11 2020, 08:43 PM

My plan is to start with a patch strip around the opening on the inside. This should give me something to work with.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 11 2020, 08:44 PM

Check fit with tail light.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: tygaboy Apr 11 2020, 10:16 PM

I feel for you, brother! I did a similar repair in that area. A bit of contorting to get in there.
Just keep knocking it out - you're doing great! aktion035.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 12 2020, 08:06 PM

Thanks. My mantra when things get tough is to slow down. And keep going.

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 12 2020, 08:08 PM

Got back at it today, with the car still sideways.

I started by welding in the top edge, that has a flange with variable angle.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 12 2020, 08:09 PM

The lower piece is flatter, with some holes for plug welds.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 12 2020, 08:10 PM

And welded in place (inside).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 12 2020, 08:11 PM

With the car rotated back to horizontal (love the rotisserie!), here's the view from the outside. Now I have something solid to work with.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 12 2020, 08:13 PM

After welding the ragged edges and building up metal where missing, and then grinding, I got it at least 80%. Still needs some touch-up, but better than I hoped.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 12 2020, 08:14 PM

Test fit with the tail light. Sits straight.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 12 2020, 08:15 PM

View from inside.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 13 2020, 07:52 PM

Got the right side done today. First some touch-up welding around the tail light opening.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 13 2020, 07:53 PM

Ground down and god enough (for now).



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 13 2020, 07:54 PM

On to the top. Here's the corner gusset in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 13 2020, 08:00 PM

And after a bunch of welding and grinding, and more welding and grinding.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 14 2020, 07:49 PM

With the trunk corners done, I am on to the list of remaining small tasks.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 14 2020, 07:51 PM

Headlight box drain tube.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 14 2020, 07:52 PM

Bottom side of engine lid hinge mounts.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 14 2020, 07:53 PM

Next up, the muffler shield.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat Apr 14 2020, 08:55 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Apr 14 2020, 06:53 PM) *

Next up, the muffler shield.


Bob....mine is removable.
Plus I had it ceramic coated to keep the heat out of the rear trunk.
Unsure if that worked or not, but the theory was sound. wink.gif

I'll have to see if I have pics from my build.
But just think....screws to hold the shield to the standoffs.

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 15 2020, 09:14 PM

Thanks, Doug. I remember that from your build, and it has me thinking.

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 15 2020, 09:15 PM

No real work today, but I did look over the body shell again, and found a few more things for the list.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 16 2020, 09:40 PM

I got started on the muffler shield. I want this to be bolt on, but no holes in the trunk floor. I removed the 6 original legs and fabricated 2 brackets with bolts welded in as studs.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 16 2020, 09:43 PM

Here's the shield with the new brackets bolted on for placement on the trunk floor.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Kansas 914 Apr 17 2020, 06:30 AM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Apr 16 2020, 08:43 PM) *

Here's the shield with the new brackets bolted on for placement on the trunk floor.

I really like this idea and glad you made the extra effort to do it this way.

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 17 2020, 08:20 PM

Thanks, me too. The shield sits in the stock location +/- 1/4 inch. And it seems plenty rigid.

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 17 2020, 08:21 PM

Here is one of the new brackets welded in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 17 2020, 08:21 PM

Both brackets.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 17 2020, 08:22 PM

And the shield bolted on. Done with this and crossed off the list.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Bmw635 Apr 17 2020, 09:09 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Apr 17 2020, 09:21 PM) *

Both brackets.


Are you putting seam sealer in the pan seams?

Posted by: BeatNavy Apr 18 2020, 05:56 AM

QUOTE(Kansas 914 @ Apr 17 2020, 08:30 AM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Apr 16 2020, 08:43 PM) *

Here's the shield with the new brackets bolted on for placement on the trunk floor.

I really like this idea and glad you made the extra effort to do it this way.

agree.gif I've been contemplating best way to do as well. I've been running without it for the last few weeks, but it probably needs to go back on. I like this approach.

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 18 2020, 07:44 PM

QUOTE(Bmw635 @ Apr 17 2020, 09:09 PM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Apr 17 2020, 09:21 PM) *

Both brackets.


Are you putting seam sealer in the pan seams?


That is part of my plan, both brush-on and spray-on.

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 18 2020, 07:48 PM

I decided to weld the U-holes in the passenger floor. I would rather have the simplicity than the original details.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 18 2020, 07:53 PM

And now onto the channel for the weatherstrip around the frunk opening. First, identifying all the rusted segments. These include the front edge (pretty much all on the inner side):



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 18 2020, 08:49 PM

Left headlight box.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 18 2020, 08:50 PM

Detail:



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 18 2020, 08:51 PM

Right headlight box:



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 18 2020, 08:53 PM

More ugly details:


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 18 2020, 08:54 PM

Time for surgical removal. I am trying to minimize replacement.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 18 2020, 08:55 PM

More:


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 18 2020, 08:56 PM

And more:


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 18 2020, 08:58 PM

The biggest section I removed was the inner side of the front edge. As always, the tools pile up during a job.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 18 2020, 09:00 PM

Today, the hero tool was the Dremel. We will see how long this one lasts.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 19 2020, 08:30 PM

I started piecing the channel back together today, with the new stock from 914 Rubber. Thanks, Mark.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 19 2020, 08:32 PM

The piece cut for the front left corner.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 19 2020, 08:33 PM

I managed to get a bit of curvature, to match the original arc.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 19 2020, 08:34 PM

Fit in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 19 2020, 08:36 PM

And welded in. I had pretty good luck with the thin gauge metal edges, even a bit of corrosion.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 19 2020, 08:37 PM

Right front corner piece.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 19 2020, 08:37 PM

In place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 19 2020, 08:39 PM

I started to tack weld this, and...the wire ran out. Always at an inconvenient moment, right? I had one more spool in my stock.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 19 2020, 08:40 PM

Back to welding. I can grind these first corner pieces tomorrow, and get on with the next bits.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Baker17 Apr 20 2020, 09:07 PM

Your work is inspiring and will be a reference when I finally start my 914. I have a question though and I am sorry if it is a silly one but here it goes: why didnt you have the shell blasted before you started all the work? It seems to me that it would have been easier to see all the problem areas and would have helped with the welds? Again, this is a question from a soon to be first timer.... idea.gif

PS: You make a very good case for a rotisserie. But it is so expensive....

Cheers

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 21 2020, 08:53 PM

My delay in blasting was a combination of poor planning--and not expecting to get this deep. By the time I realized I was into a complete tear down, it was too late to get any external sources for paint stripping.

As for the rotisserie, I am hoping that when done I can sell it for a good part of my purchase price (unless my son claims it).

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 21 2020, 08:55 PM

Back to work, just an hour yesterday and a couple today. For me, short stints seem to work better for small pieces.

Grinding the first bits from Sunday. Left side:


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 21 2020, 08:57 PM

Right side:


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 21 2020, 08:58 PM

Next piece for the left side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 21 2020, 08:59 PM

Welded in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 21 2020, 09:00 PM

Same piece for the right side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 21 2020, 09:00 PM

Welded in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 21 2020, 09:03 PM

Inner corner piece for the right side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 21 2020, 09:03 PM

Welded.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 21 2020, 09:04 PM

Last piece for the right side?


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 21 2020, 09:05 PM

Welded.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 21 2020, 09:06 PM

Here's the right side, almost done.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 22 2020, 07:39 PM

First, I caught up with grinding the pieces from yesterday.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 22 2020, 07:40 PM

More grinding.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 22 2020, 07:41 PM

And more grinding.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 22 2020, 07:44 PM

The last bit is the inner edge of the channel all along the front. I had to cut down the stock width of the L, and give it the same curvature as the front of the car.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 22 2020, 07:45 PM

Got it tacked in place before quitting time.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 23 2020, 08:11 PM

I finished up the frunk channel today. Before final welding along the front, including the latch mounting plate, I made sure I had the same angle across the channel from left to right.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 23 2020, 08:13 PM

Here's the latch welded on. Don't worry, I ground this into something pretty.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 23 2020, 08:16 PM

After welding the front channel "seam" and grinding that.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 23 2020, 08:17 PM

Frunk channel all done, and another item crossed off the list.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 24 2020, 08:33 PM

With the frunk channel done, I switched to the read panel. This was the last bit of bodywork with significant filler (than know of--knock on wood).

Here's the panel before grinding off the filler.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 24 2020, 08:34 PM

And after.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 24 2020, 08:36 PM

Some dents and dings, and holes from the PORSCHE reflector panel installed by a PO.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 24 2020, 08:38 PM

The reflector panel holes will get welded, and the stock holed for the original insignia will get cleaned of bondo.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 24 2020, 08:40 PM

For access to the inside of the panel, I removed the trunk lock mounting plate.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 24 2020, 08:41 PM

Here's the mounting plate. Pretty lumpy.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat Apr 24 2020, 09:27 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Apr 24 2020, 07:41 PM) *

Here's the mounting plate. Pretty lumpy.


Hey, I like my smashed pototos lumpy. rolleyes.gif

Looking good there Robert with all your progress.

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 25 2020, 08:20 PM

QUOTE(raynekat @ Apr 24 2020, 09:27 PM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Apr 24 2020, 07:41 PM) *

Here's the mounting plate. Pretty lumpy.


Hey, I like my smashed pototos lumpy. rolleyes.gif

Looking good there Robert with all your progress.


Thanks, Doug. Still thinking positive here, lumps and all.

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 25 2020, 08:23 PM

For better access I unbolted the rotisserie rear upright, with the car on jack stands.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 25 2020, 08:24 PM

Now I can see the worst spots.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 25 2020, 08:25 PM

And this.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 25 2020, 08:27 PM

I propped the trunk lid in place, to compare alignments. The lid has its own issues, including a dip along the trailing edge.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 25 2020, 08:28 PM

Right side looks pretty good.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 25 2020, 08:29 PM

Left side not so great. The problem is mostly a "droopy" lid edge.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 26 2020, 08:58 PM

I worked more today to get things "straight": the top and bottom of the raised boss, and the top edge of the rear panel.

After some moderate metal work, things looked a little better.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 26 2020, 08:59 PM

Eye-balling along the lower edge of the boss. Ignore all the lumps for now.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 26 2020, 09:00 PM

Watching the angles.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 26 2020, 09:02 PM

When things where looking nearly straight by eye, I rigged up my long level as a reference line. Looking pretty good, with a variance of about 1/16 inch.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 26 2020, 09:04 PM

But the trunk lid has its own problems, especially along the rear edge.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 26 2020, 09:06 PM

As I started to work the trunk lid edge, I heard a crunch, and my rust-free lid suddenly had a rust-trough hole. Damn. (See my other thread asking for advice)


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 26 2020, 09:07 PM

Anyway, I kept working the lid edge and got things a bit better before quitting.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 26 2020, 09:08 PM

Looks good enough for a 10 foot car, but I want better.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat Apr 26 2020, 09:59 PM

Great pic here Bob.
Well...spend a bit more time tweaking the trailing edge of your rear "bonnet" and I think you'll be very satisfied with the result.

Attached Image

Man....a ton of body work is coming your way, eh Mate?


QUOTE(bkrantz @ Apr 26 2020, 08:07 PM) *

Anyway, I kept working the lid edge and got things a bit better before quitting.

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 27 2020, 08:18 PM

QUOTE(raynekat @ Apr 26 2020, 09:59 PM) *

Great pic here Bob.
Well...spend a bit more time tweaking the trailing edge of your rear "bonnet" and I think you'll be very satisfied with the result.

Attached Image

Man....a ton of body work is coming your way, eh Mate?


QUOTE(bkrantz @ Apr 26 2020, 08:07 PM) *

Anyway, I kept working the lid edge and got things a bit better before quitting.



Yep, I consider bodywork the next phase, or two. First, I want to work the metal to get it as good as I can, and then later need only some thin filler.

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 27 2020, 08:22 PM

I decided to take a break from the rear, and work on the front left fender. To get enough flex in the outer curve next to the turn signal hole, I had to cut slots in the flange. Once I got the profile correct, I welded the flange. Things got rigid again and held the correct curve.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 27 2020, 08:24 PM

Next, I welded all the puller holes from the PO repair. And, I committed to my first mod: shaving off the warts, and filled those holes as well.

Sorry, I should have told purists to look away. biggrin.gif


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bbrock Apr 27 2020, 08:29 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Apr 27 2020, 08:24 PM) *

Next, I welded all the puller holes from the PO repair. And, I committed to my first mod: shaving off the warts, and filled those holes as well.

Sorry, I should have told purists to look away. biggrin.gif


Dude. I've discovered I'm much more of a purist than I thought, but even I couldn't bear to put those ugly warts back on my car. It looks so much nicer without them.

Watching your work is really awe inspiring. I know you said this isn't your first rodeo, but just how many rodeos have you had? Watching your work is inspiring and - a little annoying. happy11.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 27 2020, 08:30 PM

After grinding the welds, I got the fender shape about 90% right.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 28 2020, 08:16 PM

To get the next 5% I am going beyond where I stopped in the past (and where I would use thicker filler to get the final profile).

So I am trying to learn new tools and techniques. Like using a template gauge, and taking profiles from an unmolested fender to guide my work on the victim fender.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 28 2020, 08:17 PM

Take the curve from here...


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 28 2020, 08:18 PM

And use it to judge the work here. Gaps still need work.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 28 2020, 08:19 PM

Getting closer to 95%.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 28 2020, 08:20 PM

And after some additional work by eye and feel. I have another new technique to try for even more refinement.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 28 2020, 08:21 PM

But meanwhile, plugging the wart holes on the right side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 28 2020, 08:22 PM

This fender also needs some shaping, especially along the front and lower corner.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 28 2020, 08:23 PM

Working through the welding list.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 28 2020, 08:24 PM

And getting started on the shaping list.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat Apr 28 2020, 08:45 PM

This man knows no fear.....go get 'em Bob.

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 29 2020, 07:44 PM

QUOTE(raynekat @ Apr 28 2020, 08:45 PM) *

This man knows no fear.....go get 'em Bob.


Maybe too dumb to know any better--but still happy!

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 29 2020, 07:47 PM

I only had about 30 minutes in the garage today. I spend most of the day listening to and grading student presentations (senior thesis projects), and then did a stint of yard work to keep the boss happy.

I did have time to mark reference lines on the right front fender, check the profiles, and do a bit of banging.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 30 2020, 08:22 PM

Got to use the magic tool again today (shrinking disk). The section I was working had some mild oil-canning.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Apr 30 2020, 08:22 PM

Then I got on to shaping, and things are close to matching profiles.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: aggiezig May 1 2020, 12:23 AM

Just dropping in to admire your progress. You have some serious metalworking skills and a ton of patience. Can't wait to watch your car continue to come together.

Posted by: bkrantz May 1 2020, 08:51 PM

Thanks--just learning as I go. My secret weapon is that I don'r know enough to doubt my chances for success.

Posted by: bkrantz May 1 2020, 08:53 PM

On the the next phase, trying to get the fender as smooth as possible. I might have fantasies about getting the metal ready for paint, but I can settle for a surface as smooth as possible, and then a minimum amount of filler.

First step is using some guide coat spray.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 1 2020, 08:55 PM

That provides a uniform matte black coat. The surface looks pretty good.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 1 2020, 08:57 PM

Then a a light sanding, to reveal the highs and lows--things look a little rougher now!

Now to raise the low spots and tap down or grind the highs.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 1 2020, 08:59 PM

I also got started on the right rear fender, laying out guidelines to compare profiles.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 1 2020, 09:00 PM

Here are the some lines on the left side to use as profile models.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 2 2020, 09:09 PM

Had a fun visit by a local 914 friend today, who brought his raspberry 6. We had fun talking 914 and other car stuff, and I was able to get a look at some details that will help me. Thanks, Mike!

I then got back to work, but found that my grinding broke though some of the puller hole welds, so I took a few steps back, and re-welded.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 2 2020, 09:11 PM

Of course, that means re-grinding, re-shaping, and re-smoothing.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: BeatNavy May 3 2020, 06:27 AM

If it's not too much trouble at some point can you explain how you are using the index / guide lines on the fender? I get it conceptually, but this looks interesting and potentially helpful. And I need to get better at this...

Thanks.

Posted by: Kansas 914 May 3 2020, 08:19 AM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ May 2 2020, 09:09 PM) *

Had a fun visit by a local 914 friend today, who brought his raspberry 6. We had fun talking 914 and other car stuff, and I was able to get a look at some details that will help me. Thanks, Mike!


Anytime Bob - it was nice to get out and see your work first hand.

Posted by: bkrantz May 4 2020, 08:18 PM

Just for you, Rob, I took some photos of my procedure with the template gauge.

Step 1: "zero" the gauge by pressing against something flat.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 4 2020, 08:19 PM

Step 2: press against the fender, holding the gauge perpendicular and along the selected line.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 4 2020, 08:21 PM

Step 3: Now hold the gauge (gently) along the same line on the other side, and note the misfit. Areas to be raised or lowered are obvious.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 4 2020, 08:22 PM

Step 4: repeat the process along all the lines. I start with the central vertical line, then the central horizontal line, and after that work my way out.

Posted by: bkrantz May 4 2020, 08:23 PM

After about an hour, I got the right fender profiles pretty close to the left side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 4 2020, 08:25 PM

I then went back to the front fenders, trying to level out the high spots, followed by another guide coat and sanding. I might be getting as close as I can without going nuts.

Here's the left side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 4 2020, 08:25 PM

And the right side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 4 2020, 08:26 PM

And I took a quick look at the rear panel. More work to do.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: BeatNavy May 5 2020, 04:42 AM

Ok, that helps fill in the gap, thank you! I've got a small version of one of those profile gauges, but nothing like that for car body work. The tool whore in me may need to acquire one of those.

Appreciate it beer.gif

Posted by: bkrantz May 5 2020, 09:42 PM

Never enough tools!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C06BBE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Posted by: bkrantz May 6 2020, 08:00 PM

First job today was to weld up the "extra" holes in the rear panel, and then give it another pass of metal work.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 6 2020, 08:03 PM

I then gave the other panels another smoothing pass. I might be getting these as good as I can. The photos might not show that the highs and lows differ by only about a mm or less.

Front left


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 6 2020, 08:03 PM

Front right


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 6 2020, 08:04 PM

Left cowl


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 6 2020, 08:04 PM

Right cowl


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 6 2020, 08:06 PM

And I made a first check of the right rear fender. More work to do here.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 7 2020, 08:20 PM

I took a break from panel work today. The first task was replacing a broken stud for the trunk lid torsion bar bracket on the right side. The PO repair was a hole drilled and tapped "nearby".


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 7 2020, 08:22 PM

First step was to cut off the remains bit of stud, and then drill through the flange inside the long.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 7 2020, 08:22 PM

Then I tapped the new hole (M8 x 1.0).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 7 2020, 08:23 PM

Here's the new stud screwed in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 7 2020, 08:24 PM

And then tack-welded (along with the PO hole) and ground down to accept th bracket.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 7 2020, 08:26 PM

Next, I went to work on the trunk lid. As I previously reported, this replacement lid had a rust-through in the inner rib along the trailing edge. I had cut out the rusted section and cleared out some of the inner foam.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 7 2020, 08:28 PM

Today, I went after more of the foam. I managed to clear it from the side with the access hole and through the center latch area.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 7 2020, 08:29 PM

I broke out the bore scope to see the degree of rust and remaining foam.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 7 2020, 08:31 PM

Here's a shot from inside the space between the rib and the trunk lid skin. Looks like the worst rust is where I cut out the original spot. But still lots of foam to extract from the other side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat May 7 2020, 10:06 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ May 7 2020, 07:31 PM) *

Here's a shot from inside the space between the rib and the trunk lid skin. Looks like the worst rust is where I cut out the original spot. But still lots of foam to extract from the other side.


Now that's something you don't see everyday!

The "money" shot.
Well done there Bob.

Posted by: Kansas 914 May 8 2020, 08:32 AM

I wonder if there is a chemical that would "eat" the foam and not damage the metal?

Posted by: bbrock May 8 2020, 10:40 AM

QUOTE(Kansas 914 @ May 8 2020, 08:32 AM) *

I wonder if there is a chemical that would "eat" the foam and not damage the metal?


Not fun to work with but toluene or xylene would probably do it. I'm no chemist but that stuff seems to like to eat foam in my limited experience.

Posted by: BeatNavy May 8 2020, 03:50 PM

Is that the same foam used in the body above tail lights (and in sail panel)? I think @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1143 recommends just spraying brake cleaner on it. He says that dissolves it pretty nicely. At least I think it was brake cleaner.

Posted by: bkrantz May 8 2020, 08:55 PM

Not sure. The foam in the trunk lid rib is yellow, very rigid, and somewhat porous. What I dug out of one rear fender is white, slightly flexible, and rubbery.

Posted by: bkrantz May 8 2020, 08:57 PM

In any case, I made a foam scooping and pulling tool out of a piece of 1/4 inch steel rod. Stiff enough to work but bendable to change the angle of the "head" inside the rib.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 8 2020, 08:58 PM

After a couple of hours:



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 8 2020, 08:58 PM

I got 99% of the foam. And the rust looks minimal.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: gereed75 May 9 2020, 04:45 AM

Some brake cleaners may work to dissolve foam, but there are various formulations.

Generally acetone is effective for dissolving most plastics and foams. It is readily available at big box stores. Never really tried it on Porsche foam. Also very rough on paint. Use carefully.

Posted by: Dion May 9 2020, 06:24 AM

I don’t know how I missed this thread, maybe the title threw me off.
Just read it to here. FANTASTIC WORK. I’ll be following now.
Awesome that your son is involved too. Look forward to more.
Cheers

Posted by: bkrantz May 9 2020, 08:11 PM

Thanks, Dion. Doing the work, and the documentation, keeps me going.

Posted by: bkrantz May 9 2020, 08:12 PM

Speaking of foam, has anyone replaced the foam in the trunk lid rib? With what?

Posted by: bkrantz May 9 2020, 08:13 PM

More work on the trunk lid today. Here's the hole cleaned up.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 9 2020, 08:14 PM

The patch requires a double curve, one sharper and one constant radius. I got pretty close.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 9 2020, 08:15 PM

Fit in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 9 2020, 08:16 PM

Tack-welded in place. The thin metal around the edge of the hole behaved better than expected.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 9 2020, 08:17 PM

And all welded in place. Grinding tomorrow.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 9 2020, 08:18 PM

I also welded a small crack in the rib along the right side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 9 2020, 08:19 PM

And I welded two holes in the middle of the trunk lid skin, probably from a luggage rack. I guess that was a thing at some time.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 10 2020, 08:11 PM

Got back to work on the trunk lid today. Grinding down the luggage rack holes I filled:


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 10 2020, 08:12 PM

Grinding down the crack welding in the right side rib:


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 10 2020, 08:13 PM

And grinding down the welding around the patch. I am pretty happy with this one.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 10 2020, 08:14 PM

I then set the trunk lid back on the car, propped in rough alignment. The next step is to straighten out all the dings, including the trailing edge. From 10 ft it looks pretty good, but...


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 10 2020, 08:17 PM

The trailing edge has been bent inward. I suspect it got set down hard enough on that edge to roll it under a bit. From the right side to the center, I see a gradual drop of the edge.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 10 2020, 08:18 PM

On the left side, the bend is more abrupt. I need to invent a lever that can clamp onto the edge, and ease it upward.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 10 2020, 08:21 PM

Meanwhile, I finished up the metal work on the right rear fender. The sanded spots in the guide coat make it look worse than it is. The highs and lows differ by only about 1 mm.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 11 2020, 08:12 PM

I worked more on the trunk lid today. First I made a tool to grab and pry the trailing edge. (some of the notch fell out during work--the clamp kept the 2x4 from splitting)


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 11 2020, 08:14 PM

After some gentle prying, plus some more hammer work with a soft-face mallet, I got the edge close to straight, and equally distant from the rear panel along the arc.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 11 2020, 08:14 PM

Looks good by eye.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 11 2020, 08:16 PM

And even better from a few feet away.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat May 11 2020, 09:01 PM

I'd say just slap some paint on that baby Bob. tongue.gif

Posted by: jaredmcginness May 12 2020, 06:15 AM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ May 11 2020, 10:16 PM) *

And even better from a few feet away.


Love this thread B. Such an inspiration to redo my rear end!

Also love how flat the rear decks of these look. No wheels and all... Like a spaceship or something

Posted by: bkrantz May 12 2020, 07:40 PM

QUOTE(raynekat @ May 11 2020, 09:01 PM) *

I'd say just slap some paint on that baby Bob. tongue.gif


Brush or roller?

Posted by: bkrantz May 12 2020, 07:43 PM

More work one the trunk lid today, and playing with a new tool kit. This is the pointless dent remover set from Eastwood. It comes with a glue gun, plastic pulling tabs, a hand lever pry thing, small slide hammer (not shown), and tab remover.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 12 2020, 07:45 PM

Here's a shallow dent in the outer skin, along the leading edge. The inner rib prevents access to the back of this.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 12 2020, 07:46 PM

So heat the glue gun, apply to tab, stick on to center of dent, and pry away.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 12 2020, 07:46 PM

Not bad now.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 12 2020, 07:49 PM

I pulled a few more dents in the outer skin with pretty good results.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 12 2020, 07:50 PM

I then flipped the lid over and went after some dents in the ribs.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 12 2020, 07:50 PM

But the hot glue is not strong enough and the pull tabs kept popping off.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 12 2020, 07:53 PM

I could have done what a PO did, and drill holes for a screw-in puller.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 12 2020, 07:54 PM

Instead I welded on studs that my big slide hammer can screw on to.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 12 2020, 07:56 PM

Fist dent came out nicely.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 12 2020, 07:57 PM

Second dent was going well, and then I pulled too hard!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 13 2020, 08:28 PM

Got the trunk lid done today. I welded up the hole I tore yesterday, and the old hole from a PO puller repair.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 13 2020, 08:30 PM

I used the same technique to pull the remaining significant dents in the trunk ribs.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 13 2020, 08:33 PM

While I had the welder going, I reattached the trunk latch mount inside the rear panel.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 13 2020, 08:38 PM

Getting close to clearing the list!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 14 2020, 08:41 PM

On to the next/last bit of significant metal work on the body shell: battery tray and support. Here are the new pieces.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 14 2020, 08:43 PM

I am still pondering how I want to do this (fully welded, weld in the support and bolt in the tray, other?).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: jaredmcginness May 15 2020, 10:05 AM

Hmmm. I need to finish my battery tray and engine shelf this week. Was hoping to find some answers to your question too.

I think I am going to fully weld everything. Spot welds around the base.

Posted by: bkrantz May 15 2020, 09:15 PM

I am leaning that way, too. I know I will install a sealed battery, and so the risk of acid spill is mush less than the risk of mount failure.

Posted by: ElCee May 16 2020, 04:14 AM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ May 15 2020, 04:43 AM) *

I am still pondering how I want to do this (fully welded, weld in the support and bolt in the tray, other?).


Here are some photos showing how I fitted my battery box.

1) First I welded 3 nuts on some strips and welded those strips to the underside of the battery box. You can then precisely drill the 3 mounting holes in the separate console.
2) The new console can then easily be welded where the old console was. That way you can also weld the inside of the console properly. For the integrity I also made a support to the inner screen.
3) Check whether the battery box can be properly secured with 3 bolts and disassemble the battery box again. Once disassembled both the console and the battery box can be well protected from rust.
Attached Image Attached ImageAttached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 16 2020, 08:54 PM

Thanks--very clever solution. I decided to go old school...

Posted by: bkrantz May 16 2020, 08:58 PM

And weld everything in place.

But first I pulled out the battery tray that was on the car. It had plenty of undercoating and other gunk, but the quality of the pressing, the presence of cable tabs, and the red primer makes me think this is a factory replacement part.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 16 2020, 09:00 PM

The underside is clean, and never welded.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 16 2020, 09:01 PM

I used some solvent (3M Adhesive Remover seems to work best) to strip off the undercoating.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 16 2020, 09:02 PM

In fact, this piece was only attached by some epoxy along the edge against the inner fender wall.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 16 2020, 09:06 PM

I started with the support, with some plug welds into the side of the longitudinal.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 16 2020, 09:07 PM

And then more plug welds on the side flanges.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 16 2020, 09:08 PM

Here is the tray clamped in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 16 2020, 09:09 PM

I started with more plug welds from inside the fender through the inner wall into the edge of the tray.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 16 2020, 09:10 PM

And then finished up with welding the under side of the tray. Again, having the rotisserie to turn the car upside down made this easier.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 16 2020, 09:11 PM

The list is almost done!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Tman914 May 17 2020, 02:27 PM

Nice job by the way it’s looking really nice work

Posted by: bkrantz May 17 2020, 08:52 PM

Thanks, Tman.

No 914 work today, but when I took my 991 out for a drive before changing the oil, I noticed this view.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat May 17 2020, 09:03 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ May 17 2020, 07:52 PM) *

Thanks, Tman.

No 914 work today, but when I took my 991 out for a drive before changing the oil, I noticed this view.


I noticed all the bikes on the wall. And bike wheels/tires hanging from the rafters. Ha

Posted by: bkrantz May 18 2020, 08:12 PM

QUOTE(raynekat @ May 17 2020, 09:03 PM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ May 17 2020, 07:52 PM) *

Thanks, Tman.

No 914 work today, but when I took my 991 out for a drive before changing the oil, I noticed this view.


I noticed all the bikes on the wall. And bike wheels/tires hanging from the rafters. Ha


I do NOT have a bike problem--maybe a storage problem. Plus S has 4 bikes on the other side of the garage. And we have some bikes stashed at our son's place in Tucson.

Posted by: bkrantz May 19 2020, 09:12 PM

I worked on the targa hoop top today, to remove a shallow (max 3/32") dent on the left side. I got out the paintless dent remover kit again. I did about a dozen pulls in different locations.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 19 2020, 09:13 PM

One more shot of my list.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: tygaboy May 20 2020, 08:21 AM

Your garage door thanks you! laugh.gif

Posted by: bkrantz May 20 2020, 08:31 PM

And I don't have to listen to the squealing guide wheels!

Posted by: bkrantz May 20 2020, 08:33 PM

And so on to the last big chore on the body shell: grinding all the welds that I left behind everywhere.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 20 2020, 08:34 PM

Here's a start, inside the front right fender.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Lilchopshop May 21 2020, 08:12 AM

Bob, I love your thread and use it daily to guide me on parts of my resto. What is your plan after you’re done with all the metal work? Are you going to have the whole tub media blasted and primed before doing finish body work and paint? If you’re planning to send the car out for blasting and prime/paint, will you deliver the car on (or with) the rotisserie? Appreciate any advice you or others have on these questions.

Posted by: bkrantz May 21 2020, 09:32 PM

QUOTE(Lilchopshop @ May 21 2020, 08:12 AM) *

Bob, I love your thread and use it daily to guide me on parts of my resto. What is your plan after you’re done with all the metal work? Are you going to have the whole tub media blasted and primed before doing finish body work and paint? If you’re planning to send the car out for blasting and prime/paint, will you deliver the car on (or with) the rotisserie? Appreciate any advice you or others have on these questions.


Thanks, Aaron. I have a plan worked out with a local custom body and paint shop. I will finish up the last metal work, and maybe tweak some of the bent panels a bit more. And at that point the shop with take over and do stripping, and final metal work, final prep, primer, and paint. The shop does want to use the rotisserie, as well as a dolly I can borrow from another 914Worlder (thanks, Mike!).

Posted by: Kansas 914 May 22 2020, 10:24 AM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ May 21 2020, 09:32 PM) *

The shop does want to use the rotisserie, as well as a dolly I can borrow from another 914Worlder (thanks, Mike!).

Happy to help get another 914 on the road here in Durango!

Posted by: bkrantz May 23 2020, 08:15 PM

Another bit of progress today. This does not look like much, doing some touch-up welding on the engine compartment rubber seal channel. But this is the last welding job on the list!



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bbrock May 23 2020, 08:32 PM

Simply amazing! That whiteboard is two years of work and you cranked through it without cutting corners in what... 9 months? cheer.gif pray.gif pray.gif

Posted by: bkrantz May 24 2020, 07:20 PM

Back to the festival of weld grinding. It does make the plug welds a bit less obvious.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 24 2020, 07:20 PM

Inside the RR fender.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 24 2020, 07:21 PM

Along the front panel lower seam.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 24 2020, 07:22 PM

Underside of floor all done.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 24 2020, 07:23 PM

I did find a couple of temporary screw holes from fitting the floor section. These will get welded tomorrow.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 24 2020, 07:25 PM

QUOTE(bbrock @ May 23 2020, 08:32 PM) *

Simply amazing! That whiteboard is two years of work and you cranked through it without cutting corners in what... 9 months? cheer.gif pray.gif pray.gif


Thanks, Brent. I got started seriously in October, so I count 8 months. Of course, most of the big jobs are not listed here. I wonder if the owner will pay for my time. dry.gif

Anyway, the last photo of the list with all the metal work done!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: jaredmcginness May 24 2020, 08:10 PM

White board is looking great!!! Fantastic work.

Posted by: bkrantz May 25 2020, 07:47 PM

Thanks. Gotta wait for the next version.

Posted by: bkrantz May 25 2020, 07:48 PM

Back to grinding today. My focus was inside the frunk.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 25 2020, 07:50 PM

Got the frunk finished (unless another weld is hiding somewhere).



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 25 2020, 07:51 PM

And a quick weld and grind on the floor screw holes.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 26 2020, 08:57 PM

More grinding today. Got the left side of the inner floor done.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: sixnotfour May 27 2020, 02:03 AM

QUOTE
I wonder if the owner will pay for my time.

Only with smiles per miles.. driving.gif driving-girl.gif shades.gif beerchug.gif

Posted by: bkrantz May 27 2020, 09:03 PM

Finished the right side of the floor.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 27 2020, 09:04 PM

I also started making the next list.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 28 2020, 08:33 PM

Onto the trunk interior today. Grinding welds is getting old.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 28 2020, 08:34 PM

I also took care of the spot welds along the top of the right fender, in the trough.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 29 2020, 08:18 PM

The trunk is done.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 29 2020, 08:19 PM

The corners are a little ugly, since I had to build up the weld to close jagged seams.

Right side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 29 2020, 08:20 PM

Left side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz May 31 2020, 07:37 PM

I took care of all weld grinding (as least the ones I can reach) in the engine compartment today. Most of that was along the seam on the rear edge of the floor panel, where I duplicated the factory edge weld in addition to some plug welds.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Lilchopshop Jun 1 2020, 01:04 PM

I notice you’re using an electric die grinder with carbide burrs. How do you like this setup for grinding welds? I’ve been alternating between using a 4.5 inch angle grinder and a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel for grinding welds. The dremel tool is great for precise control, but it’s very slow. Been contemplating buying the same tools you show in your pictures.
Thanks,

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 1 2020, 08:47 PM

QUOTE(Lilchopshop @ Jun 1 2020, 01:04 PM) *

I notice you’re using an electric die grinder with carbide burrs. How do you like this setup for grinding welds? I’ve been alternating between using a 4.5 inch angle grinder and a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel for grinding welds. The dremel tool is great for precise control, but it’s very slow. Been contemplating buying the same tools you show in your pictures.
Thanks,


I like it very much. It cuts quicker (beware!) and reaches into corners. Of course, it also leaves a more irregular surface unless I am VERY patient and careful.

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 1 2020, 08:49 PM

I got through grinding all the remaining welds on the body today--job done!



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 1 2020, 08:51 PM

And then a short interlude, to remove the grill from the engine lid. Note the custom location for the model and engine numbers. (The PO installed a reflector across the rear panel)


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 1 2020, 08:52 PM

And now on to the final job before sending the car to the paint shop: doors.

Here are the good doors, including a donor for the left side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 1 2020, 08:54 PM

Here's the original left door. When I peeked inside months ago, I found some wrinkly metal. So more bondo.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 1 2020, 08:55 PM

And the botched repair led to some rust along the bottom edge.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Lilchopshop Jun 2 2020, 10:14 AM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jun 1 2020, 10:47 PM) *

QUOTE(Lilchopshop @ Jun 1 2020, 01:04 PM) *

I notice you’re using an electric die grinder with carbide burrs. How do you like this setup for grinding welds? I’ve been alternating between using a 4.5 inch angle grinder and a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel for grinding welds. The dremel tool is great for precise control, but it’s very slow. Been contemplating buying the same tools you show in your pictures.
Thanks,


I like it very much. It cuts quicker (beware!) and reaches into corners. Of course, it also leaves a more irregular surface unless I am VERY patient and careful.


Thank you. I ordered my electric die grinder and set of carbide burrs this morning. Hopefully they will lessen the chore of weld grinding a little bit. sad.gif

Posted by: mbseto Jun 2 2020, 11:17 AM

Pferd makes a set of wheels called CC-GRIND for your angle grinder. For weld grinding, these things are pretty amazing. Turned a task I dread into one I can tolerate.

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 2 2020, 07:54 PM

QUOTE(mbseto @ Jun 2 2020, 11:17 AM) *

Pferd makes a set of wheels called CC-GRIND for your angle grinder. For weld grinding, these things are pretty amazing. Turned a task I dread into one I can tolerate.


Thanks--looks interesting. When possible I use a flap disk (mostly 60 grit).

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 2 2020, 07:56 PM

I got the right door stripped down today, removing the glass, frame and guides, the winding mechanism, and the lock. Amazing how little the bare door weighs.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 2 2020, 07:57 PM

This door has a bit of surface rust in the weatherstrip channel along the bottom, but nothing significant.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 2 2020, 08:01 PM

The only work to do is fixing the mirror holes. The PO had aftermarket mirrors (cheap Vitaloni copies). I need to weld the forward hole, and rescue the stock rear hole with internal nut. (And open up the other stock hole.)


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 2 2020, 08:02 PM

BTW, here is the new list--and progress.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: dereknlee Jun 2 2020, 10:31 PM

Looks good, great work. That electric die grinder looks pretty handy - as someone who doesn't have a compressor big enough to run air tools. Will have to look into that. Keep it up!

-Derek

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 3 2020, 09:03 PM

I also have compressor limitations. And I bought the big electric die grinder after burning out multiple Dremel tools.

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 3 2020, 09:06 PM

I got the left door stripped today. This is a donor door to replace the original, which has to much collision damage and rust.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 3 2020, 09:07 PM

This door has the internal collision beam. The original doors did not (October 1972 build date). BTW the beam adds about 14 lbs to the door shell, 35 lbs vs. 21 lbs.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 3 2020, 09:08 PM

The donor door also has a pretty thick undercoat layer. I assume this was not factory.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 3 2020, 09:09 PM

And this door has some rust along the bottom channel seam. Have to decide how to fix this.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 3 2020, 09:10 PM

An update on the list.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bbrock Jun 3 2020, 10:03 PM

All the doors I've seen had that undercoating. I think it was sprayed in as a sound deadener but don't quote me on that.

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 4 2020, 08:21 PM

QUOTE(bbrock @ Jun 3 2020, 10:03 PM) *

All the doors I've seen had that undercoating. I think it was sprayed in as a sound deadener but don't quote me on that.


Thanks. Either way, it stays.

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 6 2020, 09:08 PM

I got back to working on the doors today. On the right (original) door that meant welding shut the hole the PO drilled for an aftermarket mirror, and then opening up the stock mirror hole and chasing the threads.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 6 2020, 09:10 PM

On the left (donor) door I have to replace some rusty sections of the weatherstrip channel flange along the lower edge. The worst spot is at the rear curve.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 6 2020, 09:10 PM

Rusted section cut out.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 6 2020, 09:11 PM

New metal welded in, and ground smooth and even.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 6 2020, 09:12 PM

Today, the hero tools were the Dremel with mini cutoff disk, and the die grinder with small ball bit.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 6 2020, 09:13 PM

Next up are two longer sections along the door bottom.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 7 2020, 08:05 PM

Another day in 914 restoration paradise.

Here's the door with the long rusty sections removed.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 7 2020, 08:07 PM

A close-up of one section.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 7 2020, 08:08 PM

I did realize that these sections no longer have any connection between the door skin and inner panel, so added some short weld beads.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 7 2020, 08:10 PM

And then ground then down flush.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 7 2020, 08:12 PM

Time to fit the replacement strips. I made these from heavier 18 gauge so they better the original double thickness.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 7 2020, 08:12 PM

Both pieces welded in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 7 2020, 08:13 PM

Ground down to smooth and almost pretty.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 7 2020, 08:15 PM

The channel is back to solid metal.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 7 2020, 08:35 PM

Well, that's it. All bent and rusty metal (that I know about--cross fingers) removed and replaced. 3 different lists completed. Here's the last one.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 11 2020, 08:44 PM

I have been busy with my annual battle with mice in the crawl space under my house, and building a short section of fence between my garage and street, party to screen all the utilities on the wall that is the "front" of the house.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 11 2020, 08:45 PM

The fence also creates a place to hide junk over-flowing from garage and yard.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 11 2020, 08:48 PM

Now that those other chores are nearly done, back to 914 work. Coming soon: bumpers!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: kroelofsen Jun 12 2020, 01:33 AM

Good to see your progress. lots of work biggrin.gif

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=23343 What do you plan for the bumpers? Chrome or painting them?

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 12 2020, 08:54 PM

I want chrome. TBD if I can get these refinished.

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 12 2020, 08:55 PM

Working on the rear bumper today.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 12 2020, 08:56 PM

Here's how the PO filled the towing eye hole, with a sheet metal patch brazed on the inside.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 12 2020, 08:57 PM

After some grinding to clear up the hole. Looks a bit ragged.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 12 2020, 08:58 PM

This is a chrome bumper, but the PO attacked it with sandpaper before painting it black.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 12 2020, 09:01 PM

The rear bumper has a few minor dings but is in good shape overall.

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 12 2020, 09:03 PM

The front bumper also looked pretty good--at first.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 12 2020, 09:04 PM

The right side has some issues.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 12 2020, 09:05 PM

How about a custom dog bone--half thickness?


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 12 2020, 09:06 PM

The corner contour looked OK...


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 12 2020, 09:07 PM

But after a big of work with the wire wheel, surprise! That's about 1/2 inch of bondo.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 12 2020, 09:09 PM

The inside also shows how the fender got crimped.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 12 2020, 09:09 PM

After removing the rest of the bondo, it looks pretty ugly.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Kansas 914 Jun 13 2020, 08:12 AM

Hi Bob,

I "might" have a set of bumpers for you. They were painted body color when I bought the car - but there is usually a reason they got painted.

Let me know if you want to have a look.

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 13 2020, 09:02 PM

QUOTE(Kansas 914 @ Jun 13 2020, 08:12 AM) *

Hi Bob,

I "might" have a set of bumpers for you. They were painted body color when I bought the car - but there is usually a reason they got painted.

Let me know if you want to have a look.


Yes please!

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 13 2020, 09:03 PM

Today, I remember to strip the engine lid (torsion bars, latch peg)--and also made sure it had no surprises.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 14 2020, 07:14 PM

Spent a few frustrating hours working on the front bumper end today.

Here is how much the end profile is off, compared to the other side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 14 2020, 07:15 PM

The inside view shows the severe crimping.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 14 2020, 07:16 PM

I used my press to try to unfold some of the damage, with partial success.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 14 2020, 07:17 PM

I got the profile a bit better, but still off.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 14 2020, 07:19 PM

After an hour with hammer and dolly and other tools. Still some severely folded bits that do not want to cooperate.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 14 2020, 07:20 PM

This will talk more work to get the profile close enough, and then maybe it can be pretty.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 15 2020, 09:17 PM

I had better luck working the front bumper today. Lots of twisting and banging, with the bumper braced in different configurations.

The first achievement was getting the horizontal top recess edge, where the rubber cap edge sits, back close to a straight line. The line past the bend will need more work.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 15 2020, 09:19 PM

Next, I went back to working the curve profile, when seen from above.

First attempt looks a bit better.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 15 2020, 09:21 PM

Another round with the hammers, and the profile is almost there.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 15 2020, 09:22 PM

The face is still lumpy, but that will come later.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 15 2020, 09:24 PM

I took a break from bumper work to fabricate the bracket that supports the center of the rear bumper cap. Here is the layout.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 15 2020, 09:26 PM

And the finished part. I will weld this on once the car is off the rotisserie, for better access.

Posted by: Kansas 914 Jun 16 2020, 07:34 AM

Bob,

I got 5 bumpers out of storage. Feel free to stop by and take a look at them. I have 2 unmolested (still chrome) rear bumpers.

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 17 2020, 08:37 PM

Thanks, Mike--very good to have friends, especially friends with 914s (and 914 parts).

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 19 2020, 09:09 PM

A minor detour to work on the 914 dolly loaned to me by Kansas 914. He invited me to add some braces for the posts. I found that the existing pegs on top of the posts did not fit the jack point donuts on my car, so I decided to re-engineer those and make the fit adjustable.

Here are the new post caps with a 1/2 inch hole.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 19 2020, 09:13 PM

And the inserts that have 1/2 pegs and 3/4 inch pegs (for the donuts). The height of the inserts can be raised with washers.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 19 2020, 09:15 PM

The pegs are offset so by rotating the distances between pegs on all 4 posts can be altered a bit.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 19 2020, 09:16 PM

Angled braces for the corner posts.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 19 2020, 09:17 PM

Finished product.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Kansas 914 Jun 20 2020, 07:00 AM

Nice work on the dolly - well done!

Posted by: BeatNavy Jun 20 2020, 09:28 AM

QUOTE(Kansas 914 @ Jun 20 2020, 09:00 AM) *

Nice work on the dolly - well done!

agree.gif Nice engineering and nice welding (stick, no less).

Posted by: sixnotfour Jun 20 2020, 09:34 AM

Right ,,Great Hard Work and Skills,,,Oh... Here have a bumper... and a cart
Workers Matter

Posted by: Kansas 914 Jun 20 2020, 10:10 AM

QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Jun 20 2020, 09:34 AM) *

Right ,,Great Hard Work and Skills,,,Oh... Here have a bumper... and a cart
Workers Matter


biggrin.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 20 2020, 08:36 PM

QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Jun 20 2020, 09:28 AM) *

QUOTE(Kansas 914 @ Jun 20 2020, 09:00 AM) *

Nice work on the dolly - well done!

agree.gif Nice engineering and nice welding (stick, no less).


The credit for (good) welding goes to my son, who has actual training and skills.

But I get the design credit! biggrin.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 20 2020, 08:54 PM

We got the car body onto the dolly today--a real milestone. With luck, it will go to the paint shop by the end of the week.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 20 2020, 08:56 PM

We also upgraded the wheels on the rotisserie. The paint shop will probably use it for stripping and for priming the underside. The original wheels might not survive rolling in and out of the shop.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 20 2020, 08:57 PM

Mounting the red wheels required cutting off the original plates and welding on new ones.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 21 2020, 09:02 PM

Bumper day! Mike let me try out candidates from his inventory.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 21 2020, 09:07 PM

Started on the rear, with the straightest bumper in the collection. First fit on the car, with my original top cap.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 21 2020, 09:08 PM

Left end.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 21 2020, 09:09 PM

Right end. The gap along the side fender recess looks big (but the cap is against the fender).



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 21 2020, 09:10 PM

Overall the fit looks pretty good, just a bit high on the right side.

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 21 2020, 09:11 PM

For the front, the straightest bumper had a small but distinct dent near the left end.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 21 2020, 09:13 PM

To mount the top cap, and have it aligned properly, I had to remove the dent. After some work with my press and hammers, I got it 90%--good enough for the fitting.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 21 2020, 09:14 PM

I also had to come up with a temporary fix for the modified dog bone, since the PO trimmed one by 2/3 to adjust for the crappy right fender repair.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 21 2020, 09:15 PM

Since I do not have a spare, I made a wood dog bone spacer.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 21 2020, 09:19 PM

Dig my temporary dog bone need to be bone-shaped? No, but why not?


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 21 2020, 09:20 PM

Here is the bumper mounted, with the frunk lid propped in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 21 2020, 09:21 PM

The left end.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 21 2020, 09:22 PM

And the right (bad) side. Not too bad, but needs more work.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Kansas 914 Jun 22 2020, 06:40 AM

I have a dog bone if you want it. I will set it out for you.

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 22 2020, 07:52 PM

QUOTE(Kansas 914 @ Jun 22 2020, 06:40 AM) *

I have a dog bone if you want it. I will set it out for you.


Thanks, Mike--and thanks for the chance to look at your cars to compare bumper fit.

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 22 2020, 07:55 PM

More bumper fitting today. In the rear, I elongated the holes a bit so the bumper sits lower. To get it to fit closer, I think I will need to shave some dog bones.

In the front, I redid the recess in the right fender for the top cap corner. Here is the way it was, with markings (hard to see).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 22 2020, 07:57 PM

And after a bit of hammer work, build-up MIG welding, and grinding.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 22 2020, 07:59 PM

With my son's help (and his willingness to lie on his back and weld upside down), we attached the support bracket for the center of the rear bumper cap.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 22 2020, 08:00 PM

From below.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 22 2020, 08:02 PM

We also redid part of the front panel seam, where we turned the PO lap joint into a butt seam. Welding was not solid, and multiple efforts did not improve things, so I cut a hole for a patch.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 22 2020, 08:03 PM

From the inside, after welding in new metal, and some rough grinding.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 23 2020, 08:39 PM

More bumper fitting, all on the front right fender, and mostly around the recess for the bumper cap end.

My ace assistant at work, in the second part of a welding and grinding cycle.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 23 2020, 08:41 PM

Although the recess looked good yesterday, grinding the shape made the welded metal too thin and made it crack. So today was weld-grind-repeat.

Here is the work in progress.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 23 2020, 08:43 PM

The final result, at least for today. The shapes and fit look good to me.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 23 2020, 08:44 PM

Overall top view.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 23 2020, 08:54 PM

I also started prep for transport to the paint shop. The plan is not final yet, but will require some tie-downs, preferably that do not touch the body and will work when I bring the car home with fresh paint.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 23 2020, 08:57 PM

For the front, the square tubing connects across the bolt holes for the torsion bar mounts.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 23 2020, 08:58 PM

Just enough clearance for a strap hook.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 23 2020, 09:00 PM

In the final countdown!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 23 2020, 09:01 PM

Gathering miscellaneous parts for the paint shop, I found out the car's name.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat Jun 23 2020, 09:34 PM

"The cable guy".....nice.....git er done there Bob.

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 24 2020, 07:53 PM

Got some bolts today, and mounted the tie-down brackets to the rear suspension points. I added some quick-links so the straps can tie off with reasonable angles.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 24 2020, 08:01 PM

The big job today was some targeted rust treatment. After testing both Corroseal and Ospho, I chose Corroseal. It did a better job at penetrating surface rust and leaving a more complete coating.

With my son's help, we started with the trunk lid. I poured about a cup of Corroseal between the inner skin and the rear internal rib. We then tilted the lid in different directions to coat the inside, and then penetrate the trailing edge. After pouring off the excess, we propped the lid upright to drain and dry.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 24 2020, 08:03 PM

We then did the same thing with the doors, pouring some Corroseal into the bottom interior and coating the internal seam.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 24 2020, 08:04 PM

Last, I injected Corroseal inside the jack point flanges, including the second drain hole I added.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 24 2020, 08:06 PM

That's pretty much it. Tomorrow we will work to prepare the car and dolly for transport. Good friends should arrive with a trailer Friday morning, and then off to the paint shop.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat Jun 25 2020, 02:56 AM

Let's see what that Corroseal looks like?
Inquiring minds and all.....

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 25 2020, 08:26 PM

Just for you, Doug. Not much access to see where I treated on the car.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 25 2020, 08:28 PM

Another rusty piece from a prior test. Equivalent amounts of Ospho on the left, and Corroseal on the right. I judged the Corroseal did a better job at soaking in and leaving a top film.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 25 2020, 08:30 PM

We wrapped up the loading prep today. First we tied the body to the dolly. In the rear I installed the engine cross brace support brackets, and used those.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 25 2020, 08:31 PM

In the front, I installed the suspension/steering cross member, and tied off to that.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 25 2020, 08:32 PM

We then moved the car over near the garage door. Ready to roll.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 25 2020, 08:33 PM

The doors and lids all loaded in my Suburban.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 26 2020, 08:43 PM

Today was moving day. Mike and Chuck (and Chuck's trailer) showed up around 9am. In about 30 minutes we had the car loaded and tied down. Car friends are awesome!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 26 2020, 08:45 PM

I was concerned about leaving the weight on the dolly wheels during transport, so we built a wood cradle to support the car under the longs. The cradle sat on jack stands, that in turn were screwed down to prevent shifting.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 26 2020, 08:46 PM

About an hour later the car was on the ground at the paint shop.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 26 2020, 08:48 PM

The body is now in the hands of Lin Coates and crew, in Bayfield, Colorado.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Cairo94507 Jun 27 2020, 06:22 AM

That car was definitely nicely secured on the trailer. I'm thinking you could have driven it across the country with no issues at all. Good job. I can't wait to see it being body worked and then color! beerchug.gif

Posted by: 9146C Jun 27 2020, 08:14 AM

I've really enjoyed following your build. Looking forward to the completion. Well done!

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 27 2020, 10:23 PM

QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Jun 27 2020, 06:22 AM) *

That car was definitely nicely secured on the trailer. I'm thinking you could have driven it across the country with no issues at all. Good job. I can't wait to see it being body worked and then color! beerchug.gif


I might have been a little paranoid, but I worked out. I also wanted to set it up so when it comes home with fresh paint, nothing has to touch that paint.

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 28 2020, 08:20 PM

I spent most of yesterday and today cleaning and reorganizing the garage (and fabricating a new post for our deck shade structure). With things moved around, I could get to the 914 motor. Don't be jealous of the awesome red paint on the head covers and pushrod tubes.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 28 2020, 08:23 PM

We ended the day by getting the motor up on the stand. More jealousy: red on the blower housing and intakes (and also on the exhaust and trans).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 29 2020, 08:28 PM

I stopped by the body shop to drop off the brackets to mount the car on their rotisserie. Here are a few other cars in progress there.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 29 2020, 08:30 PM

More outside.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 29 2020, 08:30 PM

And inside.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 30 2020, 08:13 PM

Before starting on tear down, I made some space to lay things out. I repurposed the plywood from the trailer cradle into a work table.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 30 2020, 08:16 PM

After some inspection, and labeling, and photos, I stripped off everything from the topside.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 30 2020, 08:17 PM

The first round of parts to clean and inspect.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jun 30 2020, 08:17 PM

And the new list.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 1 2020, 08:40 PM

Today, I stripped the outside of the engine. Everything came off easily, except one cheesehead screw. Given that this screws into the top of the case, I took some care. That turned into about 30 minutes of penetrating oil, finesse with a beefy screwdriver, heating with a torch, and finally lots of "gentle" taps with a hand impact tool. Eventually, it gave up.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 1 2020, 08:41 PM

With the sheet metal off, I could see the tops of the cylinders. I was a little disappointed not to find an official 914 mouse nest, but a fair amount of crud made up for it.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 1 2020, 08:42 PM

Right side


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 1 2020, 08:43 PM

Left side


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 1 2020, 08:44 PM

Next, we get to look inside, and see what is hiding there.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: djway Jul 1 2020, 09:58 PM

that is a lot cleaner than most I have opened up
Rock On

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 2 2020, 08:03 PM

I opened up the engine today. Good thing I still have an official 914 pry tool, from previous ownerships.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 2 2020, 08:03 PM

Valve train all present and looking OK.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 2 2020, 08:05 PM

A couple of the adjusting screws have pits.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 2 2020, 08:06 PM

Everything came off easily: push rod tubes, heads, cylinders.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 2 2020, 08:09 PM

I need to clean off the carbon and crud, but the heads look OK so far. Left side.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 2 2020, 08:10 PM

Right side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 2 2020, 08:11 PM

The cylinders even show cross hatching and no signs of wear.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 2 2020, 08:13 PM

Next up: removing the pistons and miscellaneous, and then splitting the case.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 2 2020, 08:14 PM

Progress on the latest list.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 3 2020, 08:42 PM

Pistons out. Looking OK, but with a lot of oily carbon crud on top.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 3 2020, 08:43 PM

Oil pump, exterior view.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 3 2020, 08:47 PM

Oil pump, interior. Anyone recognize this pump?


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 3 2020, 08:49 PM

So, after removing the 6 main case bolts, and undoing 20 fasteners around the perimeter and elsewhere, I am ready to split the case. But the seam is resisting.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat Jul 3 2020, 09:13 PM

Attached Image

I'd bet something like this could split the case halves.....
shades.gif

Posted by: ClayPerrine Jul 3 2020, 10:12 PM

Did you get the bolt that goes through the windage tray? It is between the two cylinder spigots in a recess.


Posted by: Kansas 914 Jul 4 2020, 09:58 AM

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Jul 3 2020, 10:12 PM) *

Did you get the bolt that goes through the windage tray? It is between the two cylinder spigots in a recess.

It was the same one I didn't see when I first split a case.

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 4 2020, 08:33 PM

All the bolts were out (I counted them at least a dozen times).

I tried the method of prying between the front shaft impeller flange and the front seal. After a gentle pry, the seam opened up along the front, but the back was still stuck. I resorted to some plastic wedges (door frame shims), and that did the trick.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 4 2020, 08:36 PM

Inside the case looks very good. Left side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 4 2020, 08:36 PM

Right side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 4 2020, 08:37 PM

Number 2 bearing looks good.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 4 2020, 08:38 PM

Cam bearings also look good.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 4 2020, 08:39 PM

The cam lobes look very good.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 4 2020, 08:39 PM

But the bolt-on cam is not stock, right?


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 4 2020, 08:40 PM

The crankshaft, fully assembled.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 4 2020, 08:41 PM

The number 1 bearing and journal.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 4 2020, 08:43 PM

Rigged up to pull the camshaft drive gear.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 4 2020, 08:43 PM

The gear itself looks very good.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 4 2020, 08:44 PM

Time to remove the connecting rods.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 4 2020, 08:45 PM

The number 1 con rod bearing looks good.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 4 2020, 08:46 PM

But the number 2 bearing shows a bit more wear. This is the worst one.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 4 2020, 08:49 PM

All the crank journals look great.

After a quick measuring session, the mains are about 2.3520 inches, suggesting these were ground one step undersize.

And the con rod journals are about 1.959 inches, two steps undersize.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 5 2020, 08:30 PM

A bit more tinkering today, starting with removing the oil pressure relief valve. Step one was to make a tool to fit the slot profile in the cap.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 5 2020, 08:31 PM

New tool in use.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 5 2020, 08:32 PM

Pressure relief valve parts.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 5 2020, 08:34 PM

More inspection of the case. I am still waiting on new solvent for my parts cleaner.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 5 2020, 08:35 PM

I found evidence of where a PO got rough separating the case halves.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 5 2020, 08:35 PM

I swear it wasn't me!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 5 2020, 08:36 PM

Cylinder head marking 1.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 5 2020, 08:37 PM

Marking 2.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 5 2020, 08:38 PM

The new work list.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: ClayPerrine Jul 6 2020, 07:18 AM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jul 5 2020, 09:35 PM) *

IPB Image
I swear it wasn't me!



That's gonna cause an oil leak.....

Posted by: Kansas 914 Jul 6 2020, 07:30 AM

Bob,

Do you plan on tapping/threading the oil galley plugs?

EDIT: I looked at previous pictures and it appears to be done already.

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 6 2020, 08:32 PM

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Jul 6 2020, 07:18 AM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jul 5 2020, 09:35 PM) *

IPB Image
I swear it wasn't me!



That's gonna cause an oil leak.....


Most likely. On the list to fix.

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 6 2020, 08:33 PM

QUOTE(Kansas 914 @ Jul 6 2020, 07:30 AM) *

Bob,

Do you plan on tapping/threading the oil galley plugs?

EDIT: I looked at previous pictures and it appears to be done already.


Yeah, Mike--already done for all the galley plugs.

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 7 2020, 07:59 PM

More inspection today.

The left cylinder head has a pulled exhaust stud.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 7 2020, 08:01 PM

The type 1 oil pump made contact, probably with a camshaft. But not the cam I removed, since the bolt heads on the cam gear are pristine.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 7 2020, 08:04 PM

Some ID info, cast into the cam. This looks like a CWC cam. But with an intake lift of about .318 and exhaust lift of .306, it is far from stock--and probably not compatible with the stock FI.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 8 2020, 08:06 PM

I stopped by the body shop today. They finished stripping the paint yesterday, with a dustless blaster rig.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 8 2020, 08:07 PM

First good news: no surprises under the paint.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 8 2020, 08:08 PM

Second good news: the guys at the shop at least acted reasonably impressed with all my work.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 8 2020, 08:10 PM

The shop owner just bought a rotisserie, and will keep my car mounted for now, probably through painting the underside.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 8 2020, 08:11 PM

Shop owner Lin Coates.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Lilchopshop Jul 9 2020, 08:14 AM

Looking really good! beerchug.gif
Can’t wait to get to that point on my rustoration! I think a a few months away still, but seeing this gives me huge motivation. One question. What is the shop going to do with the existing seam sealer? I’ve had to dig a lot of it out in order to repair rust and I’m debating taking all of it out before blasting. My thought is that this would uncover any more rust that may be lurking beneath and would allow for a good coat of primer under the new seam sealer. Your opinion on this?

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 9 2020, 09:03 PM

QUOTE(Lilchopshop @ Jul 9 2020, 08:14 AM) *

Looking really good! beerchug.gif
Can’t wait to get to that point on my rustoration! I think a a few months away still, but seeing this gives me huge motivation. One question. What is the shop going to do with the existing seam sealer? I’ve had to dig a lot of it out in order to repair rust and I’m debating taking all of it out before blasting. My thought is that this would uncover any more rust that may be lurking beneath and would allow for a good coat of primer under the new seam sealer. Your opinion on this?


During all my work, I probed the existing sealer, especially around the edges. Anything that looked detached or with evidence of rust underneath, I removed--at least until I found clean metal. The shop will continue with this strategy. I did not want to remove all existing sealer. BTW, my shop owner is a firm believer in applying sealer (and filler) directly to metal, and then prime over that.

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 10 2020, 08:37 PM

I got my parts washer going again today with new solvent, and did a quick cleaning of the engine case. Looks like the previous rebuild used black silicone on everything, including the case seam (but red silicone on the push rod tubes).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat Jul 10 2020, 09:39 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jul 10 2020, 07:37 PM) *

I got my parts washer going again today with new solvent, and did a quick cleaning of the engine case. Looks like the previous rebuild used black silicone on everything, including the case seam (but red silicone on the push rod tubes).


Better get a case of that "Goof Off" stuff.

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 11 2020, 08:13 PM

QUOTE(raynekat @ Jul 10 2020, 09:39 PM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jul 10 2020, 07:37 PM) *

I got my parts washer going again today with new solvent, and did a quick cleaning of the engine case. Looks like the previous rebuild used black silicone on everything, including the case seam (but red silicone on the push rod tubes).


Better get a case of that "Goof Off" stuff.


I don't want to mess things up with the wrong solvent. I expect the machine shop to know better.

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 11 2020, 08:16 PM

While taking a break from cleaning engine parts, I decided to make an official 914 bracket for my engine stand. This mount to the right half of the case, with two thick-wall tubes for the bolts.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 11 2020, 08:17 PM

I made the semi-circle ring that rests on the case flange from 3/16 by 1.5 inch bar.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 11 2020, 08:19 PM

The part that attaches to the engine stand plate is 1/4 by 2 inch bar.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 11 2020, 08:20 PM

This should be a fun TIG welding project for my son next week.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Kansas 914 Jul 12 2020, 06:53 AM

Good job!

I should have taken this opportunity to build an engine along with you.

I have all parts to build a 2.0 in storage. The case was decked by Len Hoffman - new pistons and cylinders - wrist pins machined by Jon Larson (Cap'n Krusty).

Another project for another day...

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 12 2020, 10:07 PM

Mike, you just have to give up sleeping.

Posted by: Kansas 914 Jul 13 2020, 01:22 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jul 12 2020, 10:07 PM) *

Mike, you just have to give up sleeping.


Sleep is highly over-rated.

Are you going to use the machine shop out by Cortez?

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 13 2020, 08:08 PM

QUOTE(Kansas 914 @ Jul 13 2020, 01:22 PM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jul 12 2020, 10:07 PM) *

Mike, you just have to give up sleeping.


Sleep is highly over-rated.

Are you going to use the machine shop out by Cortez?


Not sure yet. I have been talking with Dan at Competition Engineering in Phoenix.

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 13 2020, 08:09 PM

I cleaned up the heads a bit. Still lots of baked-on crud. I discovered the #1 spark plug hole has an insert.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 13 2020, 08:11 PM

And the right side sheet metal has a bunch of cracks, and a nasty PO repair.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 13 2020, 08:14 PM

I disassembled the blower housing. Yes, that is awesome red paint.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 13 2020, 08:16 PM

Separating the front and rear was a bit difficult, with the front stuck on the locater pins.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 13 2020, 08:18 PM

After some penetrating oil, and patience, and a bit of gentle prying from the inside, it cam apart.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: 76-914 Jul 14 2020, 07:49 AM

Great progress Bob. I like your resourcefulness when needing a tool or part. Momentum must be maintained and can be your best friend at times. BTW, received the front trunk metal piece. Thx again. beerchug.gif

Posted by: mbseto Jul 14 2020, 11:30 AM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jul 11 2020, 10:16 PM) *

...I decided to make an official 914 bracket for my engine stand...


I need to make one of these, I'll definitely crib from your notes. Nice work!

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 14 2020, 08:02 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Jul 14 2020, 07:49 AM) *

Great progress Bob. I like your resourcefulness when needing a tool or part. Momentum must be maintained and can be your best friend at times. BTW, received the front trunk metal piece. Thx again. beerchug.gif


Yeah, momentum and not knowing any better sometimes.

Glad the panel section will help.

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 14 2020, 08:03 PM

I spent some quality time with the blower housing and the parts washer today. Most of the dirt and grease came off, but not the lovely red paint.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 16 2020, 09:29 PM

My son came back to our place again, and I put him to work on the TIG welder. Here's the 914 half-case bracket tacked together.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 16 2020, 09:30 PM

All done.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 16 2020, 09:30 PM

On the engine stand.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 16 2020, 09:31 PM

It works!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 16 2020, 09:33 PM

I also had time to run all the engine sheet metal through the solvent washer. Most of the pieces look very good, with some work to do on the big upper pieces.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 17 2020, 08:54 PM

I stopped by the body shop today to check on progress. They completed a bit more metal work and welding, and have moved onto filler and smoothing.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 17 2020, 08:55 PM

Right front detail.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 17 2020, 08:56 PM

Rear view.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 17 2020, 08:56 PM

Right side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 17 2020, 08:57 PM

Lids.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 17 2020, 08:58 PM

Some other projects around the shop, in progress (on on pause?).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Kansas 914 Jul 18 2020, 08:22 AM

It is nice to see that the body shop is progressing!

Can't wait to see it with color on it.

See you Tuesday!

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 18 2020, 08:19 PM

Back at home, I tried some paint remover on the blower housing.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 18 2020, 08:21 PM

Most of the paint came off the inner half, but not so much on the outer half. It might have had more paint, so I will try again.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 18 2020, 08:22 PM

I also got into the engine sheet metal.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 18 2020, 08:23 PM

The upper pieces all needed a bit of metal work.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 18 2020, 08:26 PM

The upper right piece had some half-ass brazing done, which did not cover all the cracks. Next step will be grinding off the brazing.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 20 2020, 07:43 PM

Back to work on the sheet metal today. Step 1 was grinding off all the brass brazing.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 20 2020, 07:44 PM

Then a bit of welding.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 20 2020, 07:46 PM

And grinding. I will give this another pass, since I plan to powder-coat the engine sheet metal so can't use filler.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 21 2020, 07:35 PM

Today, after 2 more rounds of weld and grind. I think this is good enough, and ready for the powder coat shop.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 21 2020, 07:37 PM

And also another round of paint stripper on the outer blower housing. Not sure what will come next.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 21 2020, 07:38 PM

And then I opened the dreaded box I have ignored for months.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 21 2020, 07:39 PM

The engine/FI harness is in pretty good shape, but needs all new connector boots.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 21 2020, 07:40 PM

The main harness has several PO modifications.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 21 2020, 07:41 PM

Another


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 21 2020, 07:41 PM

And another


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 22 2020, 07:36 PM

I stopped by the body shop again today, which is about 3 weeks since they started work.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 22 2020, 07:37 PM

They are almost done with the second phase of filler, getting the surface smoothness and contours precise.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 22 2020, 07:38 PM

With luck, the car will be in primer in a few days.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Frankvw Jul 23 2020, 06:08 AM

nice to see this progress, and good luck with the wireloom ! although it has some PO-modifications, it does not look too bad (from the pics at least). Good that you have created a space for it to work on !!

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 23 2020, 08:40 PM

QUOTE(Frankvw @ Jul 23 2020, 06:08 AM) *

nice to see this progress, and good luck with the wireloom ! although it has some PO-modifications, it does not look too bad (from the pics at least). Good that you have created a space for it to work on !!


Thanks. I took a more careful look, and removed most non-stock coverings. I flagged all the problems with blue tape, and then chickened out and put it back in the box.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 23 2020, 08:41 PM

I also wanted to clear my table so I could lay out the suspension. Here are all the parts as they came off the car last September.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 23 2020, 08:43 PM

I surveyed everything and spotted some minor problems, including worn and loose bushings and a beat-up steering rack boot flange.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 23 2020, 08:44 PM

I took apart the front struts. Interesting inserts, and look relatively new.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 23 2020, 08:48 PM

Unfortunately, the left strut housing has a bigger problem: the threads on the inside are worn away on one side. My guess is that the original insert got loose and wore away the threads.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 23 2020, 08:49 PM

I will need to replace this. Any specific years that match (or not) my 1973? Here's the only number I could find on the strut housing.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 24 2020, 09:00 PM

I had a busy day taking the suspension components apart. Here's my method for removing the end fittings and bushings on the front A-arm: using my cheater extension to rotate and twist the fitting off.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 24 2020, 09:03 PM

Once the end fitting is off, I then pried the bushing out.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 24 2020, 09:04 PM

I also removed the ball joints. Given the neat and tidy bending of the cotter pins, I bet these were original.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 24 2020, 09:06 PM

Next, I took the rear shocks and springs apart. Pretty easy with my trusty spring compressor. I originally bought these for working on 914 springs almost 30 years ago.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 24 2020, 09:07 PM

These springs have green color code.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 24 2020, 09:09 PM

I then got on to pressing out the rear wheel bearings and hubs. I know this Jenga set up looks sketchy.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 24 2020, 09:10 PM

This was going to be just a mock-up, but when I put just a small amount of pressure on the hub, it moved.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 24 2020, 09:12 PM

On one side, the bearing came out intact, but on this side one bearing race came out on the hub.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 24 2020, 09:14 PM

That led to one extra step on the press.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 24 2020, 09:15 PM

The bearing grease on that side was almost dry and hard.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 24 2020, 09:16 PM

Trailing arms without bearings!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 24 2020, 09:18 PM

The last step was pressing out the axle. I pressed one end in far enough to clear the bushing.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 24 2020, 09:19 PM

I could then pry the bushing out.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 24 2020, 09:20 PM

I then pushed the other end of the axle in past the bushing, and pried out that side.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 24 2020, 09:21 PM

Trailing arm axles out!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 24 2020, 09:22 PM

And I found the traditional hieroglyphics on the trailing arms.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 24 2020, 09:24 PM

I am curious about the paint. One trailing arm has reasonably intact black paint, but this side is almost paint-free.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat Jul 24 2020, 11:14 PM

Great tear down pics Bob.
Keep up the fantastic work.

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 25 2020, 08:19 PM

QUOTE(raynekat @ Jul 24 2020, 11:14 PM) *

Great tear down pics Bob.
Keep up the fantastic work.


Thanks, Doug. Still in tear-down mode, but at least I can imagine how these pieces will go back together.

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 25 2020, 08:24 PM

I forgot the last two rubber bushings, in the strut top mounts.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 25 2020, 08:25 PM

That took about 60 seconds with the press.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 25 2020, 08:27 PM

I remembered the cover for under the steering rack. A pretty ugly bit of metal.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 25 2020, 08:30 PM

I think I am addicted to metal work. I enjoyed an hour or so with hammer, dolly, and other stuff, and got to this. It still needs welding on a couple of cracks.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: jaredmcginness Jul 25 2020, 08:30 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jul 24 2020, 11:24 PM) *

I am curious about the paint. One trailing arm has reasonably intact black paint, but this side is almost paint-free.
IPB Image


So odd, mine had what I imagine to be the same "5" on the drivers side arm. I taped my off and kept it when I repainted it.

IPB Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 26 2020, 08:50 PM

And not much paint on yours, too.

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 26 2020, 08:52 PM

A bit of welding and grinding today, to finish up the steering cover panel.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 26 2020, 08:53 PM

And then one more round of hammer work and straightening. Ready for blasting, and paint or powder-coat (TBD).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 28 2020, 08:53 PM

With the table cleared, I got back to electrical work today. First up was the alternator.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 28 2020, 08:53 PM

This might be the original unit.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 28 2020, 08:54 PM

I pulled the rear cover. Pretty nasty.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 28 2020, 08:55 PM

Not sure this is even worth getting tested.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 28 2020, 08:57 PM

To warm up, I started with the ignition harness. First step was some cleaning to remove dirt, grease, and corrosion.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 28 2020, 08:58 PM

After a bit of work, it looks pretty good.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 28 2020, 08:59 PM

Anyone know where to source these hard plastic connector boxes?


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 28 2020, 09:01 PM

The one problem to fix is a splice and non-stock connector.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 28 2020, 09:02 PM

Since the distance is short, I want to replace the entire wire, starting at the plug.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 28 2020, 09:03 PM

So that got me motivated to organize all my electrical tools and supplies. The trusty soldering iron.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 28 2020, 09:04 PM

My new crimp tool with multiple crimp dies.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 28 2020, 09:05 PM

My trusty old tool box filled with connectors and miscellaneous parts.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 28 2020, 09:07 PM

And my supply of wire, looking a bit low. And no heavier gauge yellow wire.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 28 2020, 09:09 PM

Before ordering more wire and parts, I need another look at the main harness. So out of the box again...


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 28 2020, 09:11 PM

Laid out for tomorrow.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: djway Jul 28 2020, 11:29 PM

Wolfsburg West has the dual male insulated connectors. Something like $3.50 each.

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 29 2020, 09:10 PM

QUOTE(djway @ Jul 28 2020, 11:29 PM) *

Wolfsburg West has the dual male insulated connectors. Something like $3.50 each.


Thanks!

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 29 2020, 09:12 PM

More careful diagnosis of the main harness today. A few problem spots have extra wires spliced in, sometimes soldered...


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 29 2020, 09:13 PM

Sometimes crimped.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 29 2020, 09:13 PM

Other places are missing connectors on the ends of wires.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 29 2020, 09:14 PM

And the mouse damage continues.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat Jul 29 2020, 09:41 PM

Isn't electrical harness stuff fun?
Hate it, but it's always there.
Previous hack jobs where people have no idea what they are doing.....

I always use the non-insulated spades like what Belmetric carries:
https://www.belmetric.com/noninsulated-spades-c-19_164_200/

Plus some shrink sleeve to make it as "factory like" as possible.
Many times I don't have the exact color/stripe wire, so that's my compromise.

Good luck with this part of the job.
I'm currently going through the front trunk of the 911 correcting a lot of the same kind of nonsense.
Incorrect spades, connectors, etc.
I was fortunate on my 71 914 project to be able to purchase an NOS chassis wiring harness.
It was so much better than what was in the car.
There were a couple of mistakes in the harness that did need correcting still.
Hard to believe with an NOS harness, but Hans must have had one too many at the Haufbrau Haus the night before he built mine. Ha

And that looks like a great crimper you've got there.
I have a similar one.
They are indispensable when doing this kind of work.

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 30 2020, 07:49 PM

Might be fun (or maybe what my PhD advisor called "sick fun"). I am still feeling optimistic--we'll see how long that lasts.

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 30 2020, 07:51 PM

I stopped by the body shop today, and caught them shifting cars around. They had my 914 outside but all wrapped up. Should have gone into the paint booth after lunch and will be in primer by tomorrow.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: 76-914 Jul 30 2020, 08:21 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jul 28 2020, 08:03 PM) *

So that got me motivated to organize all my electrical tools and supplies. The trusty soldering iron.

That damp sponge at hand tells me your no novice. shades.gif

Posted by: djway Jul 31 2020, 12:06 AM

I order connectors at Digi Key in bulk and 100ft rolls of shrink tube. 2 to 1 shrink. I also use marine 3 to 1 when I need some heft around the area. It is amazing how quick you go through supplies doing a complete harness.
I used old hacked wire harness' for color matching wire.
One thing I learned is when a wire has been hacked near the terminus add extra wire and don't put the connector on until in the car. Guessed too short a couple of times....

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 31 2020, 08:13 PM

Thanks, guys. I learned about soldering from my late FIL, who was a EE and ran his own component fabrication company.

And great tip about leaving new wires long until assembly.

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 31 2020, 08:16 PM

More harness work today, still mostly in cleaning and inspection mode. The undercoat spray comes off quickly with GoofOff. It also takes off red paint overspray, but only after LOTS of rubbing.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 31 2020, 08:17 PM

Of course, as I clean wires I find more issues, ranging from tiny nicks in the insulation to more significant holes.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Jul 31 2020, 08:26 PM

While sorting through the interior parts I rediscovered the hand written number under the dash. This does not match the car VIN, and the blue overspray does not match the original Bahia Red.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: djway Aug 1 2020, 12:25 AM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jul 31 2020, 07:17 PM) *

Of course, as I clean wires I find more issues, ranging from tiny nicks in the insulation to more significant holes.

You can use Plasti Dip on those small nicks

Posted by: Cairo94507 Aug 1 2020, 03:26 AM

That is the chassis number (not to be confused with he VIN) and that number should be stamped into the rear trunk floor of your car. Additionally, the dash frames rarely match the actual color of the car. beerchug.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 1 2020, 07:55 PM

QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Aug 1 2020, 03:26 AM) *

That is the chassis number (not to be confused with he VIN) and that number should be stamped into the rear trunk floor of your car. Additionally, the dash frames rarely match the actual color of the car. beerchug.gif


Thanks for the clarification. The original trunk floor was rusted away where the number was, so I have no record of that. It does make more sense that this was the original dash front.

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 1 2020, 08:00 PM

My left replacement strut arrived from 914 Werke. A perfect replacement for the original strut that had mangled internal threads. Now I have all the parts ready for the powder coat shop next week.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 1 2020, 08:03 PM

I finished my main harness survey today, and found more "minor" problems.

Here's some evidence of a short circuit and some melting insulation.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 1 2020, 08:05 PM

And, hiding under some old tape, evidence of high quality PO mods.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 1 2020, 08:06 PM

Altogether, I found 30 problems to repair (so far). Look for the blue tape.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: djway Aug 1 2020, 11:33 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Aug 1 2020, 07:03 PM) *

I finished my main harness survey today, and found more "minor" problems.

Here's some evidence of a short circuit and some melting insulation.

These are the areas I like to use the 3 to 1 marine grade shrink tube.

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 2 2020, 08:38 PM

Trying to gather all the parts I will have powder-coated.

Here's my awesome red air filter housing.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 2 2020, 08:39 PM

Complete with moldy air filter.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 2 2020, 08:40 PM

While in a red mood, I pulled out the transaxle. I need to figure out how to clean this (and remove the red paint).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 3 2020, 07:35 PM

After muscling the trans into and around the parts cleaner, here is the red glory revealed.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 3 2020, 07:37 PM

One more item in the Red Collection: the intake runners.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 3 2020, 07:38 PM

At least the injectors are all green. Time to send these off for servicing.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 3 2020, 07:40 PM

I also took apart the intake plenum and throttle body.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 3 2020, 07:40 PM

Inside the plenum: oily sludge!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: djway Aug 3 2020, 10:57 PM

Regarding all the Red, what can I say it was the 80's. Girls had big tall hair and us guys painted everything body color.

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 4 2020, 07:59 PM

Still sorting through boxes from the disassembly last fall. This is all the "extra" electrical stuff: an awesome audio system with cassette deck, amp, and 4 speakers; an alarm system that was wired in to about 10 places, at least 2 hidden start disable switches, an ignition start bypass with solenoid, and about 10 miles of wire.

Anybody want some?



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 4 2020, 08:03 PM

Here's the fuel pump, with some red--but not the real RED. The PO did relocate the pump--to inside the right rear fender! It runs with power (or at least makes noise).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 4 2020, 08:06 PM

Another project: the relay board. Ugly.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 4 2020, 08:08 PM

The underside is even uglier, and the dielectric material is loose and spontaneously falling out.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 4 2020, 08:10 PM

A little persuasion, and the stuff comes off. I need to clean this up, check all the leads, and refill with dielectric epxoy.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 4 2020, 08:13 PM

Next up: the brain box. Another great OP idea, painting it black.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 4 2020, 08:14 PM

At least the inside looks clean.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 5 2020, 08:03 PM

I made a first pass at cleaning the brain today, with some acetone.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 5 2020, 08:04 PM

That took off the black, but left the red (overspray, not the intentional Red).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 6 2020, 07:50 PM

A follow-up with progress on the brain box, after some careful application of paint remover.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 6 2020, 07:52 PM

The metal finish is still ugly. Not sure what to try next.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 6 2020, 07:55 PM

The relay board looks better. Soaking overnight in GoofOff dissolved most of the remaining tar. I have some leads on dielectric potting epoxy, to refill the board and re-insulate all the leads.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 6 2020, 07:55 PM

The top side also looks better.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 6 2020, 07:58 PM

Meanwhile, I have continued working on the main harness. I have identified and labeled all the plugs, leads, and components, and searched for more damage to repair. Got as far as the rear firewall. Still optimistic.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 6 2020, 08:09 PM

Posting this photo here so I can link it to the VIN database. The is the owners manual that came with my car (but obviously not the original).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 6 2020, 08:10 PM

And the next page.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 7 2020, 08:41 PM

Oh fudge! While sorting through more boxes of parts I found a section (actually 2 pieces) of engine sheet metal that I forgot. This is the front section.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 7 2020, 08:43 PM

I wanted to get this to the powder coating shop to include with all the other parts, and so quickly worked to straighten out some bends and dents, and weld one spot. I got to the shop just after 2:30, but they go home at 2pm on Friday.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 8 2020, 08:54 PM

Back at work on the wiring harness, and I completed my initial cleaning and survey. I think it generally looks good, with just local problems to fix. I have also identified all the connectors and have some sense of where everything goes.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 8 2020, 08:57 PM

I could not resist starting to fix things. Since I plan to move the fuel pump to the front I want to re-route and extend the existing wires. I started by pulling them from the branch tube that goes to the right side of the engine and battery.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 8 2020, 08:58 PM

I then used a length of welding wire to snake the pump wires through the snorkel and main tube.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 8 2020, 09:00 PM

Here are the pump wires, now reaching into the passenger compartment and heading "upstream".


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 8 2020, 09:01 PM

I also worked on the tail light lenses. I was careless with the left one, and broke the lower corner of the reverse light end. Fortunately, I saved the chips.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 8 2020, 09:03 PM

I found some industrial acrylic welding fluid, that glues by partially dissolving the plastic.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 8 2020, 09:05 PM

I also found cracks around one of the stud bases. But easy to fix with small drops of weld fluid that wick into the cracks.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 8 2020, 09:05 PM

The corner looks rough from "below".


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 8 2020, 09:06 PM

But pretty good in normal orientation.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 8 2020, 09:08 PM

When I checked the right lens, I was surprised to see one stud broken off. I don't know when and how this happened--really!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 8 2020, 09:09 PM

But relatively easy to repair with the weld compound. Seems reasonably strong after 30 min.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 8 2020, 09:11 PM

And I also checked the fog lamps. One looks pretty good, except for minor pitting on the lens. Just needs a new gasket.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 8 2020, 09:13 PM

But the other lamp has major issues, with corrosion in the case and a bent mount.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 8 2020, 09:13 PM

Plus rust inside the reflector. This one needs a sub.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 9 2020, 07:41 PM

I took a look at the pedal cluster today. Overall, it looks really good, no rust, and already has bronze bushings.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 9 2020, 07:42 PM

But the throttle lever has some interesting PO brazing. I will look to replace this.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: djway Aug 9 2020, 10:55 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Aug 8 2020, 08:09 PM) *

But relatively easy to repair with the weld compound. Seems reasonably strong after 30 min.

Only tighten the absolute minimum required...

Posted by: bbrock Aug 10 2020, 07:49 AM

QUOTE(djway @ Aug 9 2020, 10:55 PM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Aug 8 2020, 08:09 PM) *

But relatively easy to repair with the weld compound. Seems reasonably strong after 30 min.

Only tighten the absolute minimum required...


I've made that repair on a couple lenses and even more severe breakage. They have held up well, but I do try to be careful to go slow when tightening the retainers and not over tighten.

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 10 2020, 09:10 PM

Have you guys ever replaced the foam gasket around the edge of the tail light lens?

Posted by: bbrock Aug 10 2020, 10:31 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Aug 10 2020, 09:10 PM) *

Have you guys ever replaced the foam gasket around the edge of the tail light lens?


Assume you are talking about the round gasket cord inside the lip of the lens. Yes and no. I tried to replace with the 914Rubber cord but I'm sorry to say it was not acceptable. I'm told the AA gaskets are a dead match for OE so that will be in my next order. You can see the problems with the 914Rubber gasket material here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=307290&view=findpost&p=2801670

There is also a foam gasket between the tail light bucket and chassis. I replaced that with the 914Rubber gaskets and they fit perfectly.

Posted by: raynekat Aug 11 2020, 12:33 AM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Aug 10 2020, 08:10 PM) *

Have you guys ever replaced the foam gasket around the edge of the tail light lens?


Yes.....does that help? tongue.gif
914 Rubber makes a nice replacement.

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 12 2020, 08:17 PM

Thanks, Brent. You are much more helpful than Doug.

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 12 2020, 08:20 PM

Cleaning wires is getting tedious. I spent about 2 house today, and got done with one long lead and two short ones. Here is a shot showing the before (left) and after (right). The red spots are where the PO paint, from spraying the inside of the trunk, got between the original spiral tape wrapping of the wire bundle.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 13 2020, 08:01 PM

I carried on today, and finished cleaning the wiring for the trunk. This still need some repair work, with new connectors and a few bits of local replacement wire (plus the leads for the license plate lights).



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 13 2020, 08:03 PM

The wires look pretty good now, and seem intact--just a bit stiff in a few place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bbrock Aug 13 2020, 10:07 PM

Looking good. Try hitting them with some 303 Protectant and they may soften up. Mine did. I also soaked wire with overspray in brake fluid to soften the paint so it cleaned off (being careful not to get the ends of he wire in the fluid). That also seemed to softened the insulation and the harness was still supple a year and a half later when I reinstalled it.

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 14 2020, 08:28 PM

QUOTE(bbrock @ Aug 13 2020, 10:07 PM) *

Looking good. Try hitting them with some 303 Protectant and they may soften up. Mine did. I also soaked wire with overspray in brake fluid to soften the paint so it cleaned off (being careful not to get the ends of he wire in the fluid). That also seemed to softened the insulation and the harness was still supple a year and a half later when I reinstalled it.


Good to know--I will try some of both.

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 14 2020, 08:31 PM

I got into wire repair mode today. Here is the setup, with soldering iron, heat gun, and other stuff.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 14 2020, 08:34 PM

First up: 2 leads to the ignition switch plug. One was split and connected to new PO leads. The other has a new lead spliced in.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 14 2020, 08:35 PM

Starting with the yellow wire, I carefully removed the crimp connectors.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 14 2020, 08:36 PM

Then weave the wire cores together.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 14 2020, 08:37 PM

Then solder.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 14 2020, 08:39 PM

I did the same for the red lead (and I managed to remember the heat shrink tubing for both).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 14 2020, 08:40 PM

Slide the tubing into place. This is marine grade with internal adhesive.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 14 2020, 08:41 PM

Then hit it with the heat gun.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 14 2020, 08:42 PM

I did the same repair on two leads to the light switch.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 14 2020, 08:44 PM

Today was another milestone. I went to the powder coat shop to fetch the first batch of refinished components. I used Evolution Powdercoating in Durango--highly recommended.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 14 2020, 08:46 PM

Checking out all the parts. I remember everything except the heat exchanger ductwork, which got high temp powder coat.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 14 2020, 08:47 PM

Here's the engine sheet metal, air filter housing, and intake plenum.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 14 2020, 08:49 PM

Of course, powder coat, like paint, reveals any flaws in the metal. The section where I welded cracks is not perfect, but will work.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 14 2020, 08:50 PM

Here's the front suspension, with a slightly lumpy steering cover.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 14 2020, 08:53 PM

And the rear suspension. The biggest miscommunication led to getting the inside of the rear wheel bearing cavity powder coated. I will need to remove this before installing the bearings. The shop did a great job of protecting other areas and all threaded holes.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 15 2020, 08:13 PM

I got my supply of colored wire (4RCustomsWire) and metric connectors (Bel Metric).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 15 2020, 08:14 PM

Also a first time to use my fancy crimp tool, with correct jaws fitted.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 15 2020, 08:15 PM

Here's a test crimp, with a typical spade connector. Looks very correct.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 15 2020, 08:18 PM

And here's a typical repair: replacing about 6 inches of mangled original wire with the new piece soldered onto the remaining lead, covered with heat shrink tubing, a new connector, and heat shrink on that, too.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 15 2020, 08:19 PM

For another repair, I replaced a complete section of wire, from one connector to the next. The crimp tool handles double wire without a problem. (The new wire color match is not perfect, tan vs. brown).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 15 2020, 08:20 PM

New ring terminals for the battery tie-in, crimped and soldered.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 15 2020, 08:21 PM

Another repair for a mangled lead--I even matched the green wire with white stripe (sort of).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 15 2020, 08:24 PM

Here are the extensions for the fuel pump wires, attached to the leads that I re-routed through the snorkel. The new wires will eventually run all the way to the relocated pump up front.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: djway Aug 16 2020, 01:20 AM

If you don't already to this for a single wire terminal I start with the large jaw and crimp then I move to the middle jaw and get a much better result.
Keep on Crimpin.

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 16 2020, 07:17 PM

More wire repair today. Here's a replacement for the power lead to the cig lighter.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 16 2020, 07:18 PM

And after a bit of black marker, the match is better.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 16 2020, 07:21 PM

This is a real nice example of PO handiwork, a wire spliced into a lead to the left door switch. Presumably, this was for the aftermarket alarm.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 16 2020, 07:38 PM

Step 1: Replace the mangled section.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 16 2020, 07:39 PM

Step 2: Insulate the splice, and crimp both leads into a new mini-connector.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 16 2020, 07:41 PM

Step 3: Insulate the connector, and bundle all the leads in prep for wrapping the harness with new tape.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 16 2020, 07:43 PM

Here's a real special example. Twinned leads from one of the head light fuses, all melted. A PO short?


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 16 2020, 07:44 PM

Replaced, with some black marker stripes added.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 17 2020, 07:48 PM

After measuring a friend's 914 (thanks, Mike!) I decided to complete the rear portion of the harness (everything in the trunk).

Here's the wiring laid out to match dimensions marked on the table.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 17 2020, 07:50 PM

The center needs the most work, where I have to rebuild the leads to the license plate lights.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 17 2020, 07:50 PM

Here are the new wires, with connectors and insulation.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 17 2020, 07:51 PM

And then wrapped with harness tape (from 914 Rubber).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 17 2020, 07:53 PM

Wrapping the harness take a Zen mind state, trying to keep the spiral constant. Practice from years of wrapping road bike handlebars helps. I am glad to have one part of the harness done!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Cairo94507 Aug 18 2020, 01:37 PM

That harness looks really nice. beerchug.gif

Posted by: ndfrigi Aug 18 2020, 02:01 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Aug 16 2020, 06:38 PM) *

Step 1: Replace the mangled section.


Hello,

I may follow your lead sir to fix mine soon which was cut into half by the center tunnel line. Or maybe use the Heat shrink butt connector.

Attached Image

Attached Image

Attached Image

Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 18 2020, 08:47 PM

Thanks, Cairo.

Those butt connectors should work, but for the heavy gauge leads (for higher amp current), soldering might be better.

Any EE types can tell us the truth.

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 18 2020, 08:49 PM

More wire work today. I got some additional materials: super adhesive stretchy rubber tape and paint-on rubber coating, both by 3M. I am using these to patch wires with small nicks or cuts in the insulation.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 18 2020, 08:50 PM

This makes the repair a little bulky, but I think better than cutting and splicing.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 18 2020, 08:51 PM

More repairs.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 18 2020, 08:53 PM

A different kind of repair on the power lead to the left fog light. These are bare wire with some solder tinning, that get clamped in a screw connection.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 18 2020, 08:53 PM

After


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 18 2020, 08:54 PM

I also stopped by the body shop today, and saw some good progress.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 18 2020, 08:55 PM

Priming is all done, and spending a day or two for the paint to cure.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 18 2020, 08:56 PM

Then block sanding can start.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: djway Aug 18 2020, 09:25 PM

To aid in your Zen state of mind

Ohhhhhhhhmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Posted by: Kansas 914 Aug 19 2020, 06:11 AM

Attached Image

Posted by: 76-914 Aug 19 2020, 07:26 AM

QUOTE(Kansas 914 @ Aug 19 2020, 05:11 AM) *

Attached Image

Good one. I'll show that to my wife. She's a Buddhist. beerchug.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 19 2020, 08:33 PM

Thanks, guys. I can feel the boost in karma.

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 19 2020, 08:36 PM

Back to wire work today. I started wrapping the harness with new tape, working forward from the rear firewall.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 19 2020, 08:38 PM

But working forward, I encountered segments that still have the genius PO undercoating, plus remnants of carpet glue and foam padding.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 19 2020, 08:39 PM

Unwrapping the original tape leaves spots of undercoat crud. Time for more GoofOff.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 19 2020, 08:40 PM

I got as far forward as the brake pedal switch. More fun tomorrow!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Frankvw Aug 20 2020, 09:22 AM

looking good. I bet this is a job (wire cleaning/wire wrapping) where you are alone and play your favourite music and work away the hours,,,,,

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 20 2020, 08:08 PM

You are correct. I alternate between music and audio books depending on my mood.

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 20 2020, 08:10 PM

Back to work today, cleaning and wrapping "forward" from the brake pedal switch. I am still carrying the leads for the relocated fuel pump forward.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 20 2020, 08:11 PM

Coming to the "big junction" near the fuse-relay panel. The wires for the fuel pump continue forward, through the big rubber grommet.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 20 2020, 08:12 PM

Wrapping all the branches at the junction.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 20 2020, 08:14 PM

I continued with all the wiring under the dash. That finishes everything in the interior and rear.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: ndfrigi Aug 20 2020, 09:27 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Aug 20 2020, 07:14 PM) *

I continued with all the wiring under the dash. That finishes everything in the interior and rear.


nice! good job @bktantz!

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 21 2020, 08:35 PM

More forward progress today. Here are all the leads for under the cowl done, except for the wires that will go to the relocated fuel pump. I will finish these after I mount the pump.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 21 2020, 08:36 PM

I made some progress on the last section, that feeds all the front lights. Slow going due to lots of spots of PO red overspray.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: autopro Aug 21 2020, 08:50 PM

You are doing some great work wow! How are you removing the paint from the wires? Does it remove the markings on the wires when you do it? My harness is in very bad shape similar to yours and I will have to go through this process like you are doing.

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 22 2020, 08:41 PM

QUOTE(autopro @ Aug 21 2020, 08:50 PM) *

You are doing some great work wow! How are you removing the paint from the wires? Does it remove the markings on the wires when you do it? My harness is in very bad shape similar to yours and I will have to go through this process like you are doing.


I have tried and use different things. The undercoating and greasy dirt come off easiest with GoofOff, but that does not work on paint. For light overspray, acetone works pretty well. For small spots of thicker paint (like between the original tape wrap), I scrape lightly with a new, sharp utility blade, and then use acetone. For really thick paint, I use a standard paint remover, but this does soften the sleeve material, so I use it carefully.

See the example below.

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 22 2020, 08:44 PM

Onto the final section today, working towards the front lights. Here's some nasty PO red (and gold???) overspray.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 22 2020, 08:45 PM

After scraping and cleaning with acetone.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 22 2020, 08:46 PM

And the final bit has even more paint.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 22 2020, 08:47 PM

The last section all wrapped up.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 22 2020, 08:49 PM

That's it! The main harness all done, except for a few connectors that I will mount when I install the harness in the car.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 22 2020, 08:51 PM

While on a role, I attacked the ignition harness. This had a crimp connector in the middle of the power lead. In order to pull a new wire through the sleeve, I soldered it to the end of the old wire.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 22 2020, 08:52 PM

After squirting some soapy water in the first sleeve, I pulled the new wire through.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 22 2020, 08:53 PM

And then did the same with the second sleeve, to get the new wire to the multi-pin plug.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 22 2020, 08:54 PM

And then I moved the pin connector from the end of the old wire...


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 22 2020, 08:55 PM

to the new wire.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 22 2020, 08:56 PM

Here's the pin back in the correct hole in the plug (I hope).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 22 2020, 08:56 PM

And the plug cap back in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 22 2020, 08:58 PM

And the ignition harness is ready to go (I will install the ring connector on the new wire when I have everything back on the engine).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: djway Aug 22 2020, 11:53 PM

I don't remember, have you used a continuity tester on each line to confirm first you have a good circuit and that you have the correct wire to each point?
Easiest to check while out.
Excellent work on the harness.

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 23 2020, 07:36 PM

QUOTE(djway @ Aug 22 2020, 11:53 PM) *

I don't remember, have you used a continuity tester on each line to confirm first you have a good circuit and that you have the correct wire to each point?
Easiest to check while out.
Excellent work on the harness.


To be honest, I did some testing when I first inspected the harness, but found problems only where I could also see visible damage. After that I got lazy and did not test every wire or connector.

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 23 2020, 07:37 PM

Another day another harness, this time for the alternator. The wires look very good, but the grommets are a bit crusty, and the sleeving is hard and stiff in placement.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 23 2020, 07:39 PM

I soaked the rubber with 303. I will see if things improve. And I ordered some new sleeve material, and may rebuild this entire harness.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 23 2020, 07:40 PM

I also started poking around the gauges, and popped them out of the panel.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 23 2020, 07:40 PM

The speedometer has some spots on the inside of the glass.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 23 2020, 07:42 PM

And the trip odometer reset does work, but the center digit does not roll consistently with the others. The bezel shows some evidence of prior opening. I may open it up again.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 24 2020, 07:41 PM

I took a close look (and more) at the center console today. It is basically solid, but needs some work. Check out the PO speaker holes. How else can you get 4 speakers in a 914?


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 24 2020, 07:43 PM

BTW, if anyone wants some vintage electronics, just let me know. Installation not included!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 24 2020, 07:44 PM

Back to the console. All the original hardware is there.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 24 2020, 07:46 PM

Here are all the pieces, ready for repair and recovering.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 24 2020, 07:47 PM

The gauges look OK from the outside, and the bezel rings have never been opened. But the temp gauge has something loose inside rattling around. Oops.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: djway Aug 24 2020, 10:38 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Aug 24 2020, 06:41 PM) *

I took a close look (and more) at the center console today. It is basically solid, but needs some work. Check out the PO speaker holes. How else can you get 4 speakers in a 914?

Back in the 80s I had a 914 with two 200watt amps, 2 crossovers, 2 six inch, 2 four inch and two tweeters. All speakers were in the doors.
It was like sitting inside high end headphones. smile.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 25 2020, 07:58 PM

QUOTE(djway @ Aug 24 2020, 10:38 PM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Aug 24 2020, 06:41 PM) *

I took a close look (and more) at the center console today. It is basically solid, but needs some work. Check out the PO speaker holes. How else can you get 4 speakers in a 914?

Back in the 80s I had a 914 with two 200watt amps, 2 crossovers, 2 six inch, 2 four inch and two tweeters. All speakers were in the doors.
It was like sitting inside high end headphones. smile.gif


This car was close, plus a complicated alarm system (with remote) and at least 2 hidden start-defeat switches.

Posted by: djway Aug 26 2020, 03:16 AM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Aug 25 2020, 06:58 PM) *

QUOTE(djway @ Aug 24 2020, 10:38 PM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Aug 24 2020, 06:41 PM) *

I took a close look (and more) at the center console today. It is basically solid, but needs some work. Check out the PO speaker holes. How else can you get 4 speakers in a 914?

Back in the 80s I had a 914 with two 200watt amps, 2 crossovers, 2 six inch, 2 four inch and two tweeters. All speakers were in the doors.
It was like sitting inside high end headphones. smile.gif


This car was close, plus a complicated alarm system (with remote) and at least 2 hidden start-defeat switches.

Clifford alarm with micro kill switch, thats the combo smile.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 26 2020, 07:44 PM

I had some good luck today (I think). Before opening the temp gauge I rotated and tilted it, and a light bulb fell out of the lamp hole. The holder did have another bulb, so this happened some time in the past.

And when I applied some current to the gauge, it responded.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 26 2020, 07:53 PM

But less luck with the clock. I applied 12 volts but got nothing.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 26 2020, 08:11 PM

While I was testing my luck, I grabbed the horns. One makes good noise, the other is silent. So, .500 overall.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bbrock Aug 27 2020, 08:14 AM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Aug 26 2020, 07:53 PM) *

But less luck with the clock. I applied 12 volts but got nothing.



There are some https://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/Borrowed/mult_vdo_clock_repair.htm. Looks like yours is the early, self-winding version. There is a low temperature solder joint inside the clock that acts as a fuse which is where they usually fail. On my clock, I just had to remelt the existing solder to reconnect the fuse. After that, a good clean and re-lubricating with clock oil and she has been ticking along just fine. beerchug.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 27 2020, 07:20 PM

Thanks, Brent. I was looking at the info online this morning. Yes, I have the early version, with the access cover on the back attached with 3 nuts (one covered with a tamper-resistant cover).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 27 2020, 07:23 PM

Opened up, and with the classic "blown fuse". The small ring is part of a spring-loaded lever, and has pulled away from the soldered connection, presumably when it over-loaded and heated up.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 27 2020, 07:25 PM

Like Brent did, I re-attached the ring with the existing blob of low-temp solder.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 27 2020, 07:28 PM

Success! Too bad I can't upload a video, showing the balance wheel turning back and forth, the the movement ticking along. The "glass" needs a little cleanup and maybe some polish.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 27 2020, 07:31 PM

I also made a trip out, first to the powder coat shop to collect the trailing arms, redone so the bearing cavity is properly bare. Any suggestions for metal treatment before pressing the new bearings in?


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 27 2020, 07:37 PM

And then a stop at the body shop. Unfortunately, no progress since last week.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bbrock Aug 27 2020, 07:41 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Aug 27 2020, 07:28 PM) *

Success! Too bad I can't upload a video, showing the balance wheel turning back and forth, the the movement ticking along. The "glass" needs a little cleanup and maybe some polish.


cheer.gif Can't remember if I read it in that article, but somewhere I read that the overload typically occurs when the original lubricant gets thick and waxy. Every time you hear that clock softly rewind itself, you will feel a wave of satisfaction now.

On my trailing arms, I just smeared a very thin film of grease to help the new bearings slide in and called it good. Not sure if that was smart or not.

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 28 2020, 08:01 PM

A bit more suspension work today. I cleaned up the axles for the trailing arms. Sorry, I did not get a before picture, but there was a bit of rubber crud stuck on the sections where the old bushings were.

This is after a bit of work with the wire brush, and some 800 grit emery paper.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 28 2020, 08:03 PM

I found a bit of pitting on one end of each axle--not sure if the inboard or outboard end.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 28 2020, 08:05 PM

Next up, the steering rack.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 28 2020, 08:08 PM

I felt quite a bit of play in the rubber coupling.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 28 2020, 08:10 PM

Here's the problem: the holes in the coupler are just a bit larger than the bushings.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 28 2020, 08:15 PM

I was able to loosen the lock rings/bellow supports, but one eye-bolt did not want to budge. It took quite a bit of leverage, with a wrench on the flats of the rack and the eye-bolt in the vise.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 28 2020, 08:17 PM

The rack itself seems solid, with just a tiny perceptible play.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 30 2020, 07:23 PM

Today, I tackled the rack disassembly. After a visit to the parts washer, it looked a bit cleaner.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 30 2020, 07:24 PM

First, I removed the the compression cover and parts (compression piston, spring, and shims). Sorry I did not get photos.

Next was the pinion retaining nut and input yoke. Mine came off with strong finger pull.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 30 2020, 07:26 PM

Here's the pinion shaft seal in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 30 2020, 07:27 PM

I tried to remove this intact, but no dice.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 30 2020, 07:28 PM

Then I found the retaining ring for the upper pinion shaft shims and bearing.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 30 2020, 07:28 PM

No problem with snap ring pliers.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 30 2020, 07:30 PM

I then pried out the pinion shaft. Although even the factory manual suggests prying against the housing flange, I would rather pry against something disposable.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 30 2020, 07:31 PM

The pinion shaft came out with good news: still lots of viscous grease, and no sign of contamination or drying out.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 30 2020, 07:33 PM

With the pinion removed, the rack shaft slid out. It also looks in good shape.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 30 2020, 07:40 PM

I also pressed the old bushings out of the eye bolts.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 30 2020, 07:41 PM

Easy-peasy with the press. Ready for the replacement bushing kit!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 30 2020, 07:43 PM

I also took on the mangled retaining ring/bellows support. Not sure how the PO did this.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 30 2020, 07:43 PM

Anyway, 5 minutes later.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 30 2020, 07:45 PM

The last thing I did was make some paper templates for the center console pieces. I will probably have these recovered (after I repair the PO speaker holes), and I want to know where the screw holes are.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 31 2020, 06:35 PM

Besides all the garage work, and sending things out for various services, I am also deep into the hunt for replacement parts, both new and used.

Here's a replacement for the throttle crank arm, and the push-rod that was bent on my car.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 31 2020, 06:38 PM

I tried mounting some bushings today, starting with the A-arms. My first attempt involved my bench-top press, and supporting the rear end of the arm with a sketchy arrangement of blocks.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 31 2020, 06:40 PM

Then a bit of garage cooking to soften up the bushings (and heat up the metal parts). Note to married guys: using the camping gear avoids any evil looks in the kitchen.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Aug 31 2020, 06:43 PM

Unfortunately, my first attempt failed. I ripped the inner edge of the bushing (I think the installation tools closed on each other). And my sketchy press support started to bend the flange on the A-arm. Time to think about plan B.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 1 2020, 07:35 PM

Waiting for more stuff before playing with bushings, so I cleaned up the pedal cluster. Happily, almost no corrosion.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 1 2020, 07:36 PM

And some PO already installed bronze bushings.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 1 2020, 07:39 PM

I pondered using the pedals as they are, but..nah, more stuff for powder coating.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 4 2020, 08:08 PM

Back in town, and a bit of time to kill--and new toys to try out. To repair threads on one eye bolt, I ordered a 16 x 1.5 metric die. Fortunately, only the first two rounds of threads are messed up at all.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 4 2020, 08:09 PM

Very quick and easy to cut out any distortion that was binding.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 4 2020, 08:10 PM

Fixed (enough).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 4 2020, 08:11 PM

Then I used my new 16 x 1.5 tap, to dress the threaded hole in the rack.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 4 2020, 08:12 PM

Again, very easy with only very minor torque necessary to bottom out the tap.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 4 2020, 08:12 PM

Mission accomplished. The eye bolt now threads smoothly into the rack.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 5 2020, 07:37 PM

I started working on the trailing arms today, with the pivot bushings.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 5 2020, 07:39 PM

I pushed a bushing onto one end of the pivot.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 5 2020, 07:40 PM

And then pushed both into the trailing arm.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 5 2020, 07:41 PM

That left the other end needing a bushing.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 5 2020, 07:41 PM

So, add some liquid soap...


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 5 2020, 07:42 PM

...and shove the bushing in by hand as far as possible...


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 5 2020, 07:43 PM

...and finish with the press.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 5 2020, 07:44 PM

All done.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 5 2020, 07:45 PM

I also took apart the tie rods. More to do on these.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: djway Sep 5 2020, 10:57 PM

Some things in life are just more pressing than others smile.gif
Looking good.

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 6 2020, 07:31 PM

QUOTE(djway @ Sep 5 2020, 10:57 PM) *

Some things in life are just more pressing than others smile.gif
Looking good.


Indeed. And some presses are more than others (stay tuned).

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 6 2020, 07:35 PM

Time for some 914 wood working today.

Some audiophile PO cut holes in the center console for extra speakers. Because.

Anyway, I want to rescue the console, and started today by filling the holes. I ordered some 9mm plywood. It almost matches the console ply, just a little bit thicker.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 6 2020, 07:37 PM

I traced the openings individually, and got out my trusty jig saw.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 6 2020, 07:38 PM

Then some sanding to get a precise fit.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 6 2020, 07:40 PM

Glued in place. I will test the bond tomorrow. And then search for a good custom upholstery shop.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bbrock Sep 6 2020, 08:30 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Sep 5 2020, 07:44 PM) *

All done.


Thanks for posting the trailing arm procedure. I have a set of rubber bushings waiting to be swapped in for the unused polygraphite bushings in there now. Good to have this reference. beerchug.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 7 2020, 06:56 PM

Brent, it really did not take much force to install the bushings. I probably could have done it with just hand tools.

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 7 2020, 06:57 PM

Just a bit of token work today. I sanded the console speaker hole patches. And I keep sorting through boxes of parts for things to take for powder coating, like the license plate brackets.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: jaredmcginness Sep 7 2020, 07:00 PM

Great and quick work. I love the fresh coats on everything!

Taking care of business. smile.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 8 2020, 07:53 PM

QUOTE(jaredmcginness @ Sep 7 2020, 07:00 PM) *

Great and quick work. I love the fresh coats on everything!

Taking care of business. smile.gif


I still have to resist re-coating everything!

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 9 2020, 07:00 PM

Still in a holding pattern, and so taking a chance to sort through parts.

Here's all of the trim pieces (besides the windshield). This includes stuff I took off my car, the the PO had painted black, and a few pieces I have acquired as replacements.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 9 2020, 07:01 PM

And I have just half of the sun visor hardware.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 9 2020, 07:03 PM

AndI decided to test the epoxy potting compound I bought for re-sealing the bottom of the relay board.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 9 2020, 07:03 PM

This is supposed to be flexible so I hope resisting to cracking.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 9 2020, 07:04 PM

Seems simple enough, with a 50-50 mix and long curing time.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 9 2020, 07:07 PM

To test the adhesion to the relay board plastic, I partly filled two cavities.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Kansas 914 Sep 9 2020, 07:15 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Sep 9 2020, 07:07 PM) *

To test the adhesion to the relay board plastic, I partly filled two cavities.


Looks great - I am following with interest.

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 9 2020, 07:54 PM

Me too! It might take 48 hours to fully cure.

Posted by: bbrock Sep 10 2020, 12:30 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Sep 9 2020, 07:03 PM) *

AndI decided to test the epoxy potting compound I bought for re-sealing the bottom of the relay board.


That's the stuff I used and it works great. Definitely the way to go. I had planned to sell off my left over (there is enough for 3 boards in a pack) but kept finding uses for it in other projects and decided it was worth keeping on hand.

Posted by: ndfrigi Sep 10 2020, 01:15 PM

Saw few members used it and it is on my amazon cart for months until I found used relay board from a member. But still goin to buy it later to repair 2 of my spare relay boards.


Posted by: bkrantz Sep 10 2020, 07:55 PM

Visited the body shop today, and progress has begun again. They are hand sanding doors and lids.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 10 2020, 07:56 PM

The body is again outside, but they should be sanding this next week.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 11 2020, 08:11 PM

Chemistry lab today. Time to play with these and more.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 11 2020, 08:12 PM

First, check on the flexible epoxy from 2 days ago. The bit left in the mixing cup is nicely solid.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 11 2020, 08:13 PM

And also very flexible, able to fold in half and spring back.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 11 2020, 08:15 PM

I also checked the test spots I poured on the relay board. The epoxy sticks very well, and I was able to peel up a bit only with quite a bit of force.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 11 2020, 08:17 PM

Next, I tried some paint stripper on the blacked out trim from my car.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 11 2020, 08:19 PM

The stripper works well enough, but reveals that like on the chrome bumpers, some PO sanded the polished surfaces before painting.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 11 2020, 08:21 PM

Then I started a test for materials to protect unpainted steel. I sprayed these on a piece of raw square tubing. These will need 24 hours to dry.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 11 2020, 08:23 PM

Finally, I gather some miscellaneous small parts with variable amounts or rust, like the retaining clips for the targa hoop trim.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 11 2020, 08:25 PM

And the rear wheel bearing retainer plates.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 11 2020, 08:26 PM

And the rear wheel flanges.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 11 2020, 08:27 PM

All these and more went into the Evaporators-rust bucket to soak overnight.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 11 2020, 08:31 PM

Coincidently, I have been reading a fun book about rust, the impact it has on human endeavors (at least $400 billion per year), and interesting case examples, like the Statue of Liberty. Hoping for a chapter called the 914.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 12 2020, 07:45 PM

Chemistry lab follow up. First the epoxy seems a bit stiffer but still flexible.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 12 2020, 07:46 PM

Next, the corrosion inhibitors. These were both very wet after sitting overnight.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 12 2020, 07:48 PM

I patted them mostly dry with a paper towel--check back tomorrow.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 12 2020, 07:49 PM

Now for the Evaporators-rust. Pulling out the basket, and the parts look great.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 12 2020, 07:51 PM

The small fasteners are almost rust free.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 12 2020, 07:51 PM

The bearing retainers look almost new.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 12 2020, 07:52 PM

Flanges have no rust.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 12 2020, 07:53 PM

Neither do the trailing arm alignment spacers.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 12 2020, 07:54 PM

Nice looking trailing arm shock bolts.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 12 2020, 07:55 PM

Most improved: the front torsion bar adjusters. These were covered with rust.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 12 2020, 07:56 PM

OK, now for some real work. Time to disassemble the half shafts.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 12 2020, 07:58 PM

Creative washer on one flange bolt. Copper?


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 12 2020, 07:58 PM

Interesting gouge inside one flange.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 12 2020, 08:00 PM

Now onto the standard procedure. Remove the cir-clip and loosen the boot flange.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 12 2020, 08:01 PM

Pop off the CV joint and boot.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 12 2020, 08:02 PM

Repeat on the other end, and then break down the CV joints (keep the parts for each one together).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 12 2020, 08:03 PM

And after some quality time in the parts washer.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Blown59 Sep 12 2020, 08:23 PM

Looking through your thread and seeing all that you're doing, makes me wish I would have documented much more than I did. I took quite a few pictures, but not nearly as many as you. I thought about I when I initially started, but having documented other past projects, I realized how time consuming it was/is. I chose to focus that extra energy on my project.

Thank you for taking the time to do this. Because of people like you, people like me can live vicariously through people like you when we aren't working on our own stuff.

Keep up the good work!

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 13 2020, 06:53 PM

Thanks, Blown. I enjoy stopping to take phots, and it keeps me from rushing at times. And posting online gives me some motivation to keep up momentum.

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 13 2020, 06:55 PM

I inspected the shift rods today. The both look fine, just in need of paint (or powder-coat).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 13 2020, 06:56 PM

The linkage, though, looks a bit (or more) loose. The plastic bushings might be worn. biggrin.gif


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 13 2020, 06:58 PM

It took about 30 seconds to remove the pivot shaft with my press. The bushings are definitely done.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 13 2020, 07:01 PM

Speaking of the press, I installed the rear wheel bearings in the trailing arms today. Based on my bench testing, I decided to coat the bearing cavity in the arm, which was blasted to bare metal, with Boeshield T-9.

Very easy to press the bearing, with little force required.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 13 2020, 07:02 PM

I like using a press with a pressure gauge, so that when the bearing is seated, I can see the pressure ramp up.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 13 2020, 07:04 PM

Bearing in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 13 2020, 07:05 PM

And retainer with shiny new hardware. Mmmm.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 13 2020, 07:06 PM

Good reason to tap into my newly created home hardware supply, sourced from McMaster-Carr.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 13 2020, 07:06 PM

Lots of shiny stuff!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 13 2020, 07:07 PM

Then time to press in the wheel flanges. Note: inner races of the bearing supported from below.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 13 2020, 07:09 PM

Flange in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 13 2020, 07:10 PM

Trailing arms done!


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Kansas 914 Sep 13 2020, 08:01 PM

Terrific work Bob.

I have a bead blaster you are welcome to use if you need to work on some of the really bad stuff.

Posted by: djway Sep 13 2020, 11:37 PM

Tools are Swell!

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 14 2020, 07:30 PM

QUOTE(djway @ Sep 13 2020, 11:37 PM) *

Tools are Swell!


Agreed. Here's my latest that I picked up from the local freight delivery company today. I was stupid when I bought the Dake bench top model since the working height is only about 16 inches. My excuse is that I replaced an older bench top press.

But I need something with more reach, so I got the Dake floor model. This has a 38 inch working height.

My son will inherit the bench model.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 14 2020, 07:33 PM

Another batch of parts after Evaporators-rust treatment.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 14 2020, 07:36 PM

One of the half-shaft flanges has some upturned edges on the inside.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 14 2020, 07:37 PM

Took care of those with a flat file.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 14 2020, 07:40 PM

To test the flange flatness, as was discussed in another thread, I scuffed the mounting faces on some emery paper. Looks good.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: brant Sep 15 2020, 03:27 PM

I just went through the whole thread
amazing

really really nice!

great metal work!

brant

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 07:39 PM

QUOTE(brant @ Sep 15 2020, 03:27 PM) *

I just went through the whole thread
amazing

really really nice!

great metal work!

brant


Thanks, Brant. Good to meet you, and thanks for using your 914 to deliver 914 parts!

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 07:41 PM

I took a closer look at one of the CV joints, with all the parts showing lots of wear. Here's the outer housing.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 07:41 PM

And the cage.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 07:43 PM

And the inner flange. I suspect these show extreme wear. Time for new CVs?


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 07:45 PM

With all the parts and supplies in hand, I started rebuilding the steering rack.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 07:45 PM

I never removed the inner pivot bearing, just cleaned out as much old grease as possible.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 07:46 PM

I made my own grease injector, to fill below the lower bearing.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 07:48 PM

Then I greased up the rack, and slid that into place, maintaining the original left vs. right.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 07:50 PM

Here's the pivot, with the upper bearing in place, all greased.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 07:51 PM

Then packed the interior with more grease.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 07:53 PM

With the rack centered, I installed the pivot. This took some patient twisting of the rack and pivot to get everything aligned.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 07:54 PM

Next, the shims I removed and the lock ring.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 07:56 PM

With everything installed, I checked for end play: zero.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 07:57 PM

Then the pivot shaft seal, which I found based on dimension.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 07:57 PM

Seal in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 07:58 PM

Then center the rack...


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: Kansas 914 Sep 15 2020, 07:59 PM

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Sep 15 2020, 07:56 PM) *

With everything installed, I checked for end play: zero.

Well done. I need to do that on one of my cars. Thanks for the documentation.

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 07:59 PM

...and install the yoke, oriented vertically.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 07:59 PM

With the rack flipped over, I installed the pressure block.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 08:01 PM

The end of the block sits just below the housing face. I measured 0.1 mm.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 08:02 PM

Next, I measured the recess in the cover plate, 1.7 mm.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 08:04 PM

Then I measured the thickness of the original shim, and the gasket.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 08:07 PM

Here's the math. The total gap, including the gasket, is 2.1 mm. The designed gap is 0.2 mm. Can you spot my math error? The desired shim should be 1.9 mm! But the original shim is 1.85 mm, so all is well.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 08:08 PM

Here's the pressure spring, and the cover plate with shim ready to install.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 15 2020, 08:08 PM

Finally, here is the rack all done.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: autopro Sep 16 2020, 11:59 AM

This is awesome, I will be doing this to my rack soon. Thanks for the picture of the seal as finding a replacement was one of my concerns. smile.gif

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 07:40 PM

Steering rack, part 2.

I started with the eye-bolt build kit.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 07:42 PM

No instructions, so I made up my own.

Here's the bushing and eye-bolt on the press, with plenty of liquid soap. Centering is important.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 07:44 PM

After the first attempt to press in the bushing. Watch out for pinching the rubber edge between the piston and the eye-bolt. Ask me how I know.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 07:46 PM

Another squeeze, just to the limit of pinching.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 07:48 PM

With the pressure released, the bushing rebounded a bit.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 07:49 PM

I then pressed into a 27mm socket, matching the outer rim of the eye bolt.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 07:50 PM

That was enough to get just a bit of the bushing edge out the other side of the eye bolt.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 07:51 PM

I then used my blunt ex-screw driver pry tool to ease the edge out all around.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 07:51 PM

Done.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 07:52 PM

Then I pressed in the metal center bushing. Again, lots of soap.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 07:53 PM

And then a smaller socket to press against the rubber bushing.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 07:54 PM

Centered.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 07:57 PM

Ready for the final assembly. The specs come from the factory shop manual, and specify the lateral dimensions (278 mm left and right from center) and the angle of the eye bolts (9 degrees down to the rear).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 07:58 PM

I then put on the bellows (small end to the inside).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 07:59 PM

And the eye bolts with the stop plates.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 08:00 PM

To get the rack to sit properly horizontal, I made a pair of stands that screw into the rack mounting holes.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 08:01 PM

With a little adjustment, the rack now sits horizontal.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 08:03 PM

To measure the angles of the eye bolts, I grabbed some long bolts, and some tape to shim these for a snug fit.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 08:04 PM

Here's a top view, with the bolts propped up on some 2x4 blocks.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 08:05 PM

Lucky 2x4 thickness! The angle is right on 9 degrees.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 08:09 PM

Next is to measure the lateral dimension, with the rack itself centered. The spec is 278 mm. Note that the adjustment is a bit crude, since the eyebolt has to screw in or out a complete revolution to maintain the proper angles, both down to the rear and turned out to the front (as seen from above).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 08:11 PM

I set both sides. Interesting that the left side was screwed in fully, while the right side was out one full turn.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 16 2020, 08:12 PM

I snugged up the lock rings, but will check dimensions one more time tomorrow before final tightening.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 17 2020, 06:45 PM

Final bits today for the steering rack. I did double check dimensions and angles, and then tightened the lock rings. Got this tool for the job.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 17 2020, 06:47 PM

Here's all the parts gathered for installing the lower steering shaft. That includes a new rubber coupler and lock plates.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 17 2020, 06:48 PM

The coupler first mounts to the lower shaft.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 17 2020, 06:49 PM

After torquing to proper spec, the ends of the lock plate fix the bolt heads.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 17 2020, 06:51 PM

And then the coupler bolts onto the rack input yoke.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 17 2020, 06:51 PM

Lock these bolts in place, too.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 17 2020, 06:53 PM

Then comes the plastic cover and the lower shaft bearing. Ready for installation.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 18 2020, 07:40 PM

Just some minor progress today. I took another batch of parts out of the Evapo-rust bucket, including the frame for the parking brake switch. Here it is reassembled.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 18 2020, 07:42 PM

Also from the bucket, the transaxle mount pieces.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 18 2020, 07:44 PM

And starting on the parking brake lever. A bit ugly.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 07:18 PM

A bit of garage cooking, to warm up the plastic grip.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 07:19 PM

Grip removed, and a bit more cleanup.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 07:24 PM

Primed and painted.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: raynekat Sep 19 2020, 07:29 PM

Much better looking there Bob. Nice

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 07:31 PM

Now for the big job of the day: installing the rubber bushings on the front A-arms.

I decided to try some different methods. First, I did not heat the bushings or other parts. Second, I put my new taller press to use. I had the same Dake press in a bench top model but could not fit the A-arms (or some other things). My son has been wishing for a press, so his birthday will come early.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 07:34 PM

Here's my process.

1. Press the bushing into the rear housing. Lots of liquid soap.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 07:36 PM

2. Bushing pressed in.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 07:37 PM

Here's the 914 Rubber inner guide, to ease the bushing onto the A-arm. The tape makes for a snug fit to center the guide.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 07:38 PM

The guide in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 07:40 PM

3. Starting to press the bushing on, over the guide. The stack include the other 915 Rubber guide, with the recessed end inserted into the housing. Lots more soap.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 07:43 PM

Pressed all the way on. With the pressure released, the bushing rebounded a bit.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 07:46 PM

So I reversed the guide and pressed again against the housing. I also left the pressure on for a few minutes to allow the rubber bushing to creep into place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 07:48 PM

4. Once installed, the bushing and housing must be adjusted to the proper angle to ease A-arm installation.

First, set the arm horizontal (and right side up).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 07:50 PM

Then, check the angle of the housing. It should be 14 degrees from vertical, rotated "up". First check shows only 10.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 07:51 PM

A bit of twisting.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 07:51 PM

Now 14 degrees.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 07:54 PM

5. Install the rubber bushings into the front A-arm body mounts. Note that the mounts have a top and bottom, with the raised bosses on the top.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 07:56 PM

Like the rears, lots of soap, and press the rubber bushings into the mounts.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 07:56 PM

Ready for the A-arms.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 07:59 PM

6. Pressed into place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 08:00 PM

Also like the rears, I inverted the guide for a second press, and left the pressure on for a few minutes.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 08:02 PM

7. Like the rears, the front mounts also have a pre-install angle. So, set the A-arm horizontal.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 08:03 PM

The mount should be 21 degrees, also "up".


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 08:04 PM

A-arms done, and ready for installation.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 08:05 PM

Another little job today, rebuilding the heater control lever. All the parts, random order.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 08:06 PM

And all the parts, in proper order.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 08:07 PM

I used some teflon dry lube, and put it all together.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 19 2020, 08:08 PM

Getting close to having everything ready for installation (not counting the motor and transaxle). The biggest untouched pile is the interior, hiding up on the shelf.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 20 2020, 06:21 PM

Another short day in my garage. I noticed that one ball end on the rear sway bar is loose.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 20 2020, 06:23 PM

These are essentially riveted in place. The flange on the back side deformed enough for a sloppy fit.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 20 2020, 06:23 PM

I used the press to tighten the fit.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 20 2020, 06:24 PM

The fit is tight again, but I will add a bit of weld to ensure.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 21 2020, 07:23 PM

(Next day)

Welded and ground. Ready for powder coating.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 21 2020, 07:24 PM

Back to body work today. I guess I missed it.

Here are the outer rocker covers, both in very good condition.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 21 2020, 07:27 PM

One needed just a few tweaks along the edges. The other has a typical crack where the lower edge steps up. (sorry for the fuzzy photo)


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 21 2020, 07:28 PM

On the inside, more magic bondo.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 21 2020, 07:29 PM

Question to idiot PO: why bother with bondo (with no reinforcement) on the inside, and nothing on the outside?


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 21 2020, 07:31 PM

Note to PO, or PO repair shop: This is the proper way to repair cracked sheet metal.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 21 2020, 07:32 PM

Almost pretty now. Rocker covers ready for powder coating.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 21 2020, 07:33 PM

Next piece: rear valance. Also in pretty good shape, no rust or dents.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 21 2020, 07:34 PM

Here's the original tail pipe cut.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 21 2020, 07:36 PM

PO had a "custom" exhaust with dual pipes. And made a kinda-symmetrical cut in the valence. But not really. I want a stock muffler and single tail pipe, so this cut has to go.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 21 2020, 07:37 PM

First I cut away the custom flange.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 21 2020, 07:38 PM

A quick cardboard template and then a patch piece.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 21 2020, 07:39 PM

After some initial shaping, the patch in place.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 21 2020, 07:40 PM

Welded along the main surface.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 21 2020, 07:41 PM

Flange folded and the rest of the welding.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 22 2020, 07:45 PM

First pass grinding and a bit more shaping.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 22 2020, 07:46 PM

Some flat black for a guide coat.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 22 2020, 07:48 PM

After a quick scuff with a sanding block. A bit lumpy.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 22 2020, 07:49 PM

Touch up welding.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 22 2020, 07:51 PM

More grinding and shaping.

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 22 2020, 08:15 PM

After another round of shaping and guide coat. Good enough for this piece.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 23 2020, 07:17 PM

Progress at the body shop. This week they got onto my car. They finished the hand sanding on the body and doors, and were starting on the trunk lids.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 23 2020, 07:21 PM

The plan is to paint the underside today, while still on the rotisserie, and then put the car on the dolly, remove the interior brace, and paint the interior and topside tomorrow and Friday. BTW, I did get to see the new color on the headlight covers--but will keep the suspense a few more days.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 23 2020, 07:22 PM

They also did most of the seam sealing, but need to hit a few more spots.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 23 2020, 07:24 PM

I also picked up another batch of parts from the powder coat shop. More shiny.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 23 2020, 07:27 PM

Next up, brakes. I have not seen these since last year. It looks like all parts are present, including on the rear calipers. I think the logical thing is to send these off to PMB, along with the proportioning valve.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 23 2020, 07:27 PM

I already have a new replacement for the MC.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 23 2020, 07:30 PM

The other thing I want to send out is the seat belts, for re-webbing. The hardware needs some attention, too.

For the receivers, I removed the wiring for the warning lights.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: bkrantz Sep 23 2020, 07:32 PM

The PO, in his black-out phase, even painted the push buttons. Fortunately, the paint came off with fingernail scratching (followed by a bit of 3M Adhesive Remover).


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image

Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)