I've been putting this off, but I guess I should document the restoration build for my latest 914. I finally got the car on my property and even though there no garage (YET) I can go ahead and get some things started. This will be my 3rd 914 and it'll be a bit of a second chance for this car, as it has a front end section that's been grafted on (by PO) because of a previous accident - not to mention the rusted away hell-hole and holes in the floor. The graft actually looks pretty well done and solid, and the other items will be addressed. The car came with it's original engine - a 1.7 that's freshly rebuilt with zero miles on the rebuild (uninstalled). I've also got a 2056cc 'GA' motor that'll probably end up in this car.
The car was originally L21E Tangerine and someone's gone over it with a real crappy red paint. Since my last 914(/6) was L21E Tangerine.. I'm going to paint this one something else, and will be doing all bodywork and paint myself.
This "restoration" will be considered a driver quality effort.. but I don't plan on cutting too many corners either. I plan to do a quality job but it won't be going across the block at Christies either. Lots of parts have already been sourced, but there's always more, right! Here's the BEFORE shots:
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UGLY FLOORS:
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HELL HOLE:
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RUSTY FENDER TIPS:https://postimg.cc/2bvcRgV1
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You've got your hands full with that one. Always good to see another saved though.
I've not been doing much of anything to my 914 project lately, what with all the rain, weather and me doing over 200ft of cedar fencing (single handedly at that), etc. Anyway, I took some time yesterday and was able to get out there and cut away all the rusted metal from the Hell Hole. So, that's a little piece of progress I can report on . Here's a shot of it:
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Here's my replacement metal test fit:
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When can I come by and see it? I can bring a 914 for some motivation.....
I was able to mess with the 914 a couple days since my last update. I've cut the rusted thru parts of the floors out:
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I've got the panels already and picked up some Mig gas for welding, the other day.
Also, I've removed all of the suspension.. for bushing, bearing, seal replacement - but also for under car clean up and painting. This car will not be on a rotisserie, I plan to wire wheel the entire underside, treat with phosphoric acid, epoxy and paint, or bed liner stuff, or both.
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Looks like you used galvanized- bravo.
I busted most of the front suspension apart today. Gotta figure out how to get those bushings off the A-arms and the joints out of them too. Couldn't budge the dang set screws in the REAR discs rotors, so I just called it a day
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Put a torch on the bushy gs until they smoke and then turn them off with a screwdriver stuck in the hole on the mounting tab.
Heat will loosen the set screw.
It’s worth it to go to your local home store and buy a map torch. Heat makes everything loosen up.
Nice work. Every hour and step is progress.
OK - made some small progress lately.
So the general plan is this (since I'm working on this car with NO garage). Phase 1 is as follows:
1) pull and restore all the suspension.
2) weld in new floor areas & interior firewall sections.
3) remove dash
4) prime interior
5) address the entire underside of the car, wire wheel, prime, paint, etc.
6) repair: hell hole, damage to shifter hole & clutch cable hole - in engine compartment.
7) prime engine compartment.
8) address the front trunk including to cut out area for A/C condenser.
What I've been working at lately is.. getting the area under the rear trunk scrubbed down with a nylon 'wire wheel'. I really like the nylon wheel for this because it lasts forever, stays cool, is cheap and leaves an 80 grit texture which is good for the epoxy primer that'll be coming next (I will not be taking this all the way down to bare metal - not necessary). Here's the nylon wheel: https://postimg.cc/87v3NhYp
..AND one of the major hurdles has been removing the muffler heat shield (so I could get above it for rust treatment and paint. They'll tell you it's only spot welded in, but mine also had small strips of edge welding - I'll be bolting it back in:https://postimg.cc/06BJnw8S
..Here's a shot showing under the trunk floor after nylon wheeling it. I'll be scuffing all the nooks and crannies with maroon scotch-brite pads and phosporic acid solution before epoxy primer.
BEFORE: https://postimg.cc/ZWDr7gH0
AFTER:https://postimg.cc/WhzmGTmx
Also I've gotten up inside the fenders/wheel wells and removed all of the foam that's known to eventually cause rust. Mine look pretty good at this point. The job sucks but glad I did it, and got it out of the way:
DURINGhttps://postimg.cc/k2Fx9G76
REMOVED:https://postimg.cc/D4kMHm2j
I know, I'm honestly terrible with documenting my project.. in my defense I did accidently crush my old android phone, that had a ton of pictures documenting the work so far on my project#1 914. So, I'm going to try to catch uo with what little I do have. Here's a shot showing the body stripped down to bare metal, with as little filler (kitty hair in this case) as possible, before epoxy primer.
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We're obviously in Epoxy primer and.. Got my rotisserie built and the car mounted:
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Oh yeah, before it got on the rotisserie I had to address the fender to cowling issues... both fender's "pointy tips" by the cowl, were rotting away. I cut them off and welded on replacements:
Before, during -
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^ frustrating, when I use the forums 'attachment' buttons for pics, they get turned in all kinds of directions - is there something I can do to fix this?
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When in the world do you sleep? In addition to the fence (looking great!), it appears you've painted the house in the meantime too. And STILL got a bunch of stuff done on your car--OUTDOORS! Major kudos to you!
Thanks, however it’s been two years that this car’s been in that spot.. so I’m seeing it as I’ve been too lazy. The lack of a garage is a big deal though as it seems as though it’s done nothing but rain around here (when it’s not 95+ degrees out)! I’m trying to do better.. thanks for the encouragement!!
Ps- I do plan on addressing the hideous chimney this fall (I have a plan believe it or not)
My longs are generally in good condition on this car, but there was a small amount of perforated metal (outer skin) where the two rear firewalls meet the longs on each side, so I’ve been cutting and patching:
Passenger side, before, during and after-
Welded up holes from spot welds and the crack under the belt mount:
I actually finished up just before dark , will post a finished shot tomorrow.
Btw, I had a practically new bottle of welding gas empty on me after sitting a couple weeks and I had to run and get a replacement. The frustrating thing is that I had the valve closed tight. Supply house wouldn’t hear it.. my gauges must be leaking they said.. I checked them when I got back and they’re not leaking. The valve knob on the empty felt particularly loose but was normal according to them.
.. here’s a picture showing the reason I broke down and built a rotisserie...
The first pic is what my miserable welds were looking like while trying to weld a patch to the floor while laying on my back and the car a ft or so off the ground . Couldn’t really even manage to get anything clean enough for consistency. Had hot slag dripping on me and trying to dress the welds with a grinder between me and the car felt really dangerous.
The second pic is the very same area that I managed to clean up today and make look a little less embarrassing. So much easier with the rotisserie!
I can't imagine doing the underside work I did without a rotisserie--and certain not being able to enjoy any of it. Being able to turn the car on either side or upside-down made most of the cutting, welding, and grinding fun(ish).
Ok so today I removed the rear under side of the tunnel and cleaned up the lips on the tunnel where the floor will be welded to eventually, as well as cleaned up the inside of the tunnel forward - in prep for internal chassis paint there. Note, the tunnel had been left intact before I had a rotisserie and this was going to make installing the floor easier somehow . This way is much more thorough but also helpful because my clutch tube needed securing at the firewall as well as some repairs needed to the area around the throttle cable tube (see last pics):
Here’s the a shot showing the rear floor completely removed and tunnel flanges cleaned
Here you can see marks for the cuts I made at the bottom of the outside firewall..I will be fabricating the lower section of the firewall - buying a whole panel seemed wasteful since most of it is in good shape. Hopefully these repairs will last a long time, the car will be a driver, if not a daily driver.
Here’s a before shot of the PS inner firewall panel that I bought..followed by a shot of how I cut it length wise. Only the bottom most part of my inner and outer firewalls were in need of replacing. I’m using the upper part of this panel to create the lower section of the outside firewall, pics of that to come.
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PS inner repair in process
The outside passengers firewall panel I made up from the remainder of the PS inner firewall:
Nice, nice work!
Received a couple more items from RD, time to finish the firewalls.
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So next up.. the driver’s side inner. This time I popped holes around the perimeter for spot welds, with a convenient air tool I forgot I had (harbor freight). Before proceeding I needed to separate the ebrake tube from inner and outer firewalls:
Drivers side inner wall with holes ready to be welded.. this is actually and over-lay or a second skin for most of this wall as only the bottom of the original was bad. I figured why not use the entire piece, since some people buy ‘reinforcement’ panels and over lay anyway.
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The rear DS wall repair was more complicated, needed to do it in a couple of sections. Here’s the first part.
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Here you can see where the original ebrake tubes are reinstalled and to get this to happen I kind of had to install the front and rear firewall at the same time on the drivers side.
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…I’ll go back and dress the weld and make things look better later..
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Ok so I’ve realized that when I retacked the clutch tube in place, that it was not in the right place.. it’s too far inward and not sticking out into the engine compartment enough. There is a bracket midways thru the tunnel that has broken loose and I will need to repair. I can see a brass ring around the clutch tube where it should meet the firewall (see the arrow in the pic). I will repair the inner tunnel bracket later. So ive cut the FW around the clutch tube, cleaned up the tube and will be correcting the tubes placement. Glad to do this cause those welds around the tube were kinda crappy looking.
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And a shot showing the remaining gap that needs filling on the firewall.
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Fabricated a panel and tacked it in.. in this pic the clutch tube is loose in its hole so it can be adjusted outward later.
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Spitz called himself helping, but honestly didn’t really do much…
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Now to tackle the loose clutch tube bracket midway down the tunnel.. in this pic a small section of the tunnel has been peeled back and my pen is pointing to where the bracket snapped, and pulled the tube towards the front of the car.[attachmentid=807527]
Now to tackle the loose clutch tube bracket midway down the tunnel.. in this pic a small section of the tunnel has been peeled back and my pen is pointing to where the bracket snapped, and pulled the tube towards the front of the car.[attachmentid=807527]
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Bracket realigned and rewelded… I didn’t shoot a pic but I rewelded the tube to the inside of the rear firewall, the correct length exposed now. All is VERY solid! Well, I will need to address the typical clutch tube repair at the front of the tunnel, but that’s for later..
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Closed up, worked down and lightly primed
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Nice.
One step at a time.
This is amazing work. I so need to come see it in person.
Clay
Thanks guys! Clay I look forward to having you out at some point.. want to show you my Volvo 1800E too, it’s shoe-horned in between the house and the fence at the moment tho.
I got around to thoroughly coating the interior of the tunnel, the area between the rear firewalls, and longs (as much as possible) - with Eastwood’s Internal Frame paint.
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I attached the flexible nozzle to a long flexy thin rod which was helpful in getting the paint where it needed to be. The nozzle sprays the paint in a radial fan pattern.
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I’ve got this stuff running out of the longs but could only do so much with the heater tubes installed. Still though I think I got it in the most significant areas, around where the firewalls intersect. Here’s the tunnel, topside.
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Wanted to polish off a bottle .. no, not that kinda bottle - welding gas! So I did some preventative work to the hinge brackets, both sides (engine lid to body).
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Does anyone know if there is a reference measurement for the rear deck lid hinge mount… mine as all over the place on the passenger’s side. Looks like it’s been moved a couple of times and I want to weld it in, get rid of those screws .. take a look and advise please:
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Yes that makes perfect since, thanks!
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Rusted through areas of the floor and firewalls are officially replaced. We have fresh clean metal there and buttoned up now - feels like a bit of a milestone.
I used the internal frame paint (shown earlier) as weld thru primer between the floor and tunnel/firewall sections, which is high in zinc and worked out great. I welded these panels on the outside of the car as well as the inside.. probably over kill but at least I can say it’s thoroughly done.
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.. and completed - I’ve got solid floors again !!
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Good persistence, good looking progress!
Got a couple small items checked off the list
The little bracket that holds the long parking brake cable.. I finally figured out where exactly it mounts but honestly I kind of just guessed at which direction it was supposed to sit (couldn’t find a clear pic, but pretty sure this will work)
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Next I fabbed up a little support bracket for the tube (of the long parking brake):
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Well you did better than I. I forgot all together to put them on my car.
.. then it was on to that pesky PS rear hinge (rear trunk lid), had to repair the bracket first:
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Got it measured out and located properly before welding it into place:
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The bigger accomplishment tho, was getting the corner brackets (w/ jack donuts) installed. Before:
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Installed… I reused the DS one so it’s not as pretty but is definitely solid :
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Been wet for a couple days but I was able to get out and weld up those annoying factory placed openings in the floor. These -
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.. next I’ll be patching the huge hole in the frunk floor (ac condenser). AC is actually gonna be a must, but since this car is slated for a Suby engine, that huge floor opening needs to go. Stay tuned..
I Have the same issue. Im thinking of making a plate that bolts in with reinforcement around it
Frunk floor replacement panel ready to install.. it’s a repurposed piece obviously and is crusty but very solid - looks worse than it is. I’ll go back and clean it up later when I address the area for paint:
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.. not my best welds, as I had trouble chasing good grounds the whole time. All old metal - go figure
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.. the inside side , I’ll go back and seem seal it at some point.
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This next issue is a doozy… this car was in a front end accident in its previous life and the geniuses that made the repair, decided to graft a front section (of another 914) on in such a way that the seal channels (from the doner) we’re sitting down inside the old seal channels, and lightly tacked in . This caused all kinds of issues… not the least of which was that the seals no longer would sit low enough for the frunk lid to close properly. So I’m in the process of reversing this - ive cut away the excess doner metal in the channel and the excess original metal and am welding them together to correct the height and hood alignment issues. In the following pic you can see a long cut where my pen is pointing- doner metal on the left, original on the right. Then below that, of course you can see a section of missing metal - where rust ate thru because of the over-lap of the “repair”.
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.. it was the same story on the driver's side, I butt welded the seam, ground down the highs, primed and skimmed the seam & channel with fiberglass filler for a nice level base for the seals. Here’s a shot of the DS post operation:
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I stripped down the back side of my stock heat shield..
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Painted the back side of it with a 2000 degree heat paint.. just because I had it on hand and I really wanted to get this particular project done..
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I had planned to rig up some way to make this shield removable, but in the end I didn’t bother, again just wanting it done tbh. Here it is fully installed…
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Some time back I cut open the area where the front sway bar mounts so that I could add an internal reinforcement (for the bar), then got sidetracked. So I’ve finally gotten back to it… the situation is a little different tho in that I’ll be using a 19mm H&H sway bar at the front instead of a stock bar. Also, I’ve decided to used the external reinforcement pieces from ‘Maddog’ because it’ll also help reinforce the seam where this car has had a doner front end attached at the wheel wells (two birds, one stone). But with that being the case, I still needed to add a capture nut down in the holes I’d made a while back, because of the funky way the H&H brackets mount. Here’s a shot of that:
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And here’s where I closed it up, done the same on both sides obviously:
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Here’s the Maddog frt sway reinforcements, with a coating I’ve added to the inside before attaching:
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Unfortunately on the PS, there is a hole left by whoever did the crash repair - that I need to address before attaching the reinforcement. Can you believe anyone would just leave that and call it done?
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Looking good !
Been slowed down by rain - remember all this is being done outdoors , but was able to get out and patch up the hole (highlighted above ^ )
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Welded in the passenger side sway bar reinforcement…
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..and the driver’s side.. also you can see in this pic, the seam in the wheel well where the donor section was added. Whoever did that repair used an over lap procedure - not my choice but it is solid. In the pic You can see I’ve knocked the high spots off their welds and roughed the surface for some fiberglass filler top dressing to make it all less “Frankenstein “ and more water proof ..
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Jumped to the back to add rear sway bar mounting brackets. This is more of a specific type of install because the rear sway bar I’m using on this car is not OEM 914 equipment.. I think the bar is made by H&H and is definitely a slightly thicker than stock (this car will eventually have a flat 6 of some type, probably Subaru). Anyway, the real difference in the mounting of this bar vs the stock bar comes down to the spacing of the mounts. The stock mounts are approx 39” apart (iirc) and these needed to be spaced 32-5/8” apart because of the difference in the bar’s shape. Here’s a pic showing where I drilled my initial hole for starters;
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Then I had to basically custom shape the holes to fit the weld pooling from the attachment of the capture nut on the back of the bracket.
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Here’s one set in place waiting to be welded, I actually leveled it out a bit better by bending the end a little where it mounts under the heat shield:
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.. before welding I notched the end where the hole is on the brackets to give more surface area for welding (yea I should have installed this before reattaching the heat shield):
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.. checked that I had a gap of a couple millimeters at least, between the bar and trans mounts before welding the brackets in:
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If anyone installs one of these bars, again the bracket spacing is narrower than stock - I got 32-5/8” but essentially they get installed just inside of the outer most heat shield mounts (stock is well outside of the heat shield feet).
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I got these trailing arm mount brackets sometime back, forgot I even had them til I stumbled on them the other day… got them during a Maddog sale and figured they’d pair well with a set of boxed trailing arms that I have.
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Passenger side installed .. I swear I gotta quit going back to “improve” the weld
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Driver Side before shaping the piece to fit:
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Went back and installed the rear sway bar reinforcement plates inside to trunk space. Again, this is a nonstandard rear sway bar and so it was necessary to weld the plates in a slightly different location compared to stock. In this picture the plate sitting on the left side is the stock placement (just there for illustration purposes) and the one one the right is where mine needed to be welded. This illustrates the difference in bracket placement widths that I’d mentioned earlier:
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Before making the welds though, I needed to weld the circular “factory access caps” so that they would not shift under hard cornering (the brackets I welded underneath are welded over the seam slightly), and not create a crack in the mount’s attachment welds. Highlighted with purple arrow:
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Clutch cable tube forward of the shifter area is next. Remember I’ve already dealt with the other two possible failure areas regarding this tube, so mine was broken in all three spots. Started off by measuring up 3.5” and marking where the internal bracket is and also the area I’ll be using for access:
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..access area cut. Note I purposely cut it to hinge on the opposite from any other time I’ve seen this repair done - why? because the throttle cables mount sort of attaches to the top of the other side and I didn’t want to cut though it.:
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Here’s what I found inside, the tube was completely pulled away from the retaining bracket :
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Getting a good ground was a challenge (access port too small mostly) but I was able to get it firmly welded. A big ‘ol screw driver passes thru the tube with no obstruction:
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The top of the original bracket was easily accessed from my port but I needed to drill a couple holes and plug weld the bottom from the outside:
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Weld 'er up! Fun stuff, getting in all those fiddly areas, huh?
You're getting it done - way to keep at it.
I cleaned the metal up real good, and primed the metal after laying tape at the weld spots.. and then welded on the seat adjuster bracket holder that I saved from the old cross-member. I finished welding this new unit in place but it got too dark for a good pic:
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Parking Brake mount went back on today. It was in good enough condition that I recycled it. I sprayed a protective coating on the backside and on the inner long side too:
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After that I slapped back on the original cable cover after coating both sides with a protective coat:
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Finally, I replaced the lid to the factory access hole, welding it - just ‘cause
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Time for installing seat brackets and hinges to the floor. Here again I’m reusing the old hinges, all except one which was too rusted. There was more prep to getting these ready for welding than I assumed. So it took a couple days and both times I finished near dark.. therefor the welds were a bit chunky but the brackets ain’t going nowhere!
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Drivers side done. Had to install the brackets to the bottom of the Large seat rail assembly, then fit the middle adjuster in place to get the correct placement of the floor brackets before welding (as advised).
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Note: I believe you could measure 11” from the crossmember back to the middle of the pivot pin on the floor hinge and get a proper placement, but YMMV
..and, done:
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Great! Glad it worked out for you.
My stock jack points both needed a little work, neither were really all that bad but the outer shells both had some rusted out areas. Here’s where I cut away the bad area on the passenger side:
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The metal was pitted so I found a convenient piece of left over sheet metal to overlay and hopefully prolong the life of this area:
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Welded it in and smoothed it out a little :
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Sprayed some protective paint inside the cavity and cut the needed section from a RD piece I’d picked up some time back:
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Cut it open, painted cavity with rust incapcilater:
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Then I fabricated the tab that sits above the parking brake cable holes:
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Hope I got it stuck in the right place cause it was dark when I welded it in:
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And just cause I’m a glutton for punishment, I decided to continue my welding in the dark non-sense! This time, the thin little metal strap for holding down the wiring under the passenger seat:
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Next on the agenda is to repair the rusted out area that the frunk handle pull mounts to.. under the dash on the driver’s side. I made this repair over a few days work. First picture highlights the rusted out holes, but the area in between was pitted and thin so I opted to cut a large area out:
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Here’s an interesting detail I noticed while working under the dash… there is a curved reinforcement (highlighted in green) area on the passengers side where this piece would be welded for right-hand drive cars. You can see from the picture that the sheet metal is a flatter piece here instead of dropping down to hold the handle.
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Welded in, ground down highs and filled with a fiberglass fill to seal the seams. You can see the two small holes I added for fastening the cable handle to the underside. Topside view:
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… and the finished product from underneath:
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Today I jumped back over to the hell-hole repair I did several months back. I had welded my fabricated panel in place but didn’t coat it with anything to protect it.. thinking I’d get back to it soon, but I didn’t until now. Anyway besides surface rust the area needed some high welds knocked down, followed by a phosphoric acid wash.
When I made this panel it seemed to be correct until I started welding, then it was somehow short by about a 1/4” at firewall side .. I know addressing this gap is totally not necessary but since it keeps bugging me, I decided to fix it:
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.. welded into place. Will go back and fill the seams later:
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Here’s the top-side of the HH repair showing FG-filler for any pin-holes, etc:
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Got back to it, been working on this issue for a few days on and off. When my car had its front end collision (w/ previous owner), it knocked a small gap at the bottom of each door where the seal meets the threshold, under the lower door hinge on each side (must have been a hell of a pop!). Here some pics showing what I was repairing on the driver’s side:
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Under the attachment rail for the rocker cover too:
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Welded all this up, ground down the highs:
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Then it was over to the passenger side:
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… welded in, filled and lightly primed:
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Been away from this project for a while, but got back on it the other day. This time I addressed the holes that were drilled in the rear center panel when a previous owner mounted one of the long reflectors (w/ Porsche script). I began this repair yesterday after I’d misplaced my phone (camera) for half the day, so no before shots unfortunately.. and no pics where I filled the holes with metal and welded them closed. Here’s a pic of the area leveled with FG filler though:
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Lightly primed.. and check this one off the list. Next is on to the seal channel for the front trunk (frunk )
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Next, I needed to fix all the holes in the front part of the seal channel for the frunk.. including the perimeters of the headlight bucket areas. Here’s some before shots showing some of the rusted parts.
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Some typical repair techniques performed :
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And welded in place, and it’s front edge piece made up..
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A picture of the completed bucket perimeter area… took lots of pics but it’s all the same thing through out the entire main seal channel. All this took about 5 x as long as I thought it would . I only have one small dime size hole to repair in this channel now, it’s up near the driver’s side wiper arm area. More on that later. Here’s a sample of the finished work covered in rust preventative paint, just before I leveled the channel with FG filler, mainly to fill weld seams:
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What !!! You mean I was finally able to get something 914 related done?
Ok not directly to car on the rotisserie but at least something. I’m having to add sway bar tabs to a set of front a-arms because my other two sets that already have them (from the factory) are still mounted on cars that’ll need to be jockied around so I can not dismantle those. So yea, I got to break the welder out for the first time in months. I will media blast this set later but for now I used the grinder to get to shined metal for welding:
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I used a fourth set that I have to guide in placement of the sway bracket:
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I’m looking forward to getting back to this project, and this small accomplishment was kinda motivating tbh. Here the completed tabs. I’ll dissemble the arms later (Wish me luck - these things are rusty!!) :
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Oh well.. thanks anyway Clay! There was something I was thinking of hitting you up for the other day, but I’ve forgotten what it was now.
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Coming along very nicely Doug. I should have had you come do my front trunk channel. I hate it, mine rusted through up near the fender to cowel joints.
I got around to stripping these old A-arms of their bushings and ball joints - they did put up a bit of a fight I must say
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Then I decided to patch a hole in the bottom of a stock 2.0L air box that I have. I’m not sure which car this will be used on, or if I’ll use it at all but I figured it needed to be repaired before I proceed with sandblasting stuff.
Before:
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I had a hole in one of my a-arms that needed attention, so I decided to fix that this afternoon:
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.. and gone: it’s not much to report on, but it’s something:
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So my next step is to paint the underside of the car, which is in epoxy BUT Im gonna have to figure out and buy a rig for spot blasting where I have rust (@ the areas where I’ve welded on brackets and reinforcements mostly). I figured just a simple HF setup.. suggestions? I’m not impressed with the small cabinet setup I have for blasting smaller items - but I’ve considered using it as a hopper for spot blasting the car, if only I could make it more efficient. Any ways to turbo charge those things short of buying a huge compressor?
Looks good.
Looks good……isn’t masking fun?
Added POR15 to the fender seal gaps, both sides:
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This area was a major reason for not just scuffing the car and painting, so now I feel confident it’ll stay solid for a while:
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Back when I finally got my plated hardware back I kept having a feeling that something was missing but I never could put my finger on what it was (I didn’t make a thorough list of items - live and learn).
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So I broke out the stash and finally realized what it was… I received the steering rod knuckles but not the steering rods themselves (two for two separate projects). So anyway I called the SORRY plating company to see if there’s any chance they’re still hanging out in the back of their shop. I got their highly toxic rep that I struggled to deal with months back - she’s supposed to be looking for me. Needless to say, I’m not holding my breath - never use Texas Precision Plating in Garland!! You’ve been warned. Rant over, sorry..
So anyway I ran out to the parts car and pulled an extra to paint:
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I’m enjoying this thread, I have a similar car, front clipped, floors rotted and some hellhole damage. Like yours it has pretty good longs. Anyway your project is coming together good!
Thanks Nate, I’m trying to enjoy the process.. the elements are making that a struggle tho. It’s kind of liberating using a clipped car that a lot of people would have looked at as a poor candidate.. I feel like I can veer off course from stock a bit with the build and be ok with it. Plus I won’t feel so bad when I mod it later.
I have a half gallon of POR-15 left so I thought I’d burn some of it up with whatever I could, so I did up the heating system and a few other items:
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Before and after on the crappy headlight buckets:
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I also got a chance to prime some of the small pieces that will get painted black:
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I’m painting this car in sections because I’m not in a shelter and am dodging heat, humidity and showers, etc. here’s a shot showing how it’s coming along (ignor the dirt and orange peel - it'll all be cut and buffed out eventually):
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Passenger side taped off, ready for paint:
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The gun started shooting chunky particles of paint at one point, I guess the paint was setting up too quick.. so I’ve got some work to do to get it improved:
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very nice!
Hey Doug, Sorry to hear about your bad experience with the plating company. I know I had difficulties finding a good plating company locally (in Texas) and thats why I send mine to Finish and Plating services in Wisconsin. It costs in shipping, but their prices are very fair and the work is top notch. Good thing is that no matter the size of the parts I have sent, I have always gotten them back, and believe me the small parts I kind of expected to be lost, but nope.
Any way the car is coming along very nicely. This weather we are having has made it miserable to get anything done, let alone paint. My hat is off to you.
Nice! Painting is always a challenge in one way or another! Looks very similar to the color I’m currently painting mine, what color is it?
..OK, ok.. it's Porsche's Chiffon White
I swear I can not lie for shit - it's actually Wimbledon White
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This car looks really great. I love the "painting it in sections" approach... Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. Result will be beautiful...
Yea it’s dirty from the car being stored upside down during rain:
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The front where I replaced the floor cut away from AC box:
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I eventually found time (and favorable weather) to get the driver side of the car painted. Here’s some shots after I masked:
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Fresh paint, and I haven’t shown any pics of the doors but they’ve been done too - so the car is finally completely painted. Well I still have the engine lid, bumpers, etc to do.. but it feels good to have the car itself painted (I’ll be color sanding soon):
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you are a brave soul! That is a lot of work. wish i could do that but i think being a metallic is a more involved process, it seems single stage paint would be less involved, and i am not doing to try and do 2 stage base+clear i dont think. Great color, was it offered in earlier years?
Phil
I probably should have thought through this detail more before proceeding to paint but I kept putting it off. On the one hand I wanted to leave the lock hole open in case I ever wanted to revert back to a stock trunk lock (so I didn’t weld up the hole), but of course if I did go back then there are three little extra holes exposed from where the roundel was. In the end I just painted. So now I need to figure a way to make this water tight. I can probably figure something out but was hoping for some ideas and suggestions from you guys. How would you handle this:
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I would imagine a circle of butyl rubber around it and then squashed to seal with the emblem.
Yeah I was thinking along those lines as a first step and whether I put something behind it. I was thinking a small rubber backed cover with a machine screw thru it and a large washer on the other side also rubber backed (sandwich the lock hole), the add the roundel with rtv along its back perimeter.
Ok it’s been a while since I’ve updated my build thread so here goes: I’ve been working on my wiring harness for much too long. I add some wiring for extra accessories while it was out of the car and convenient to do so. But now I’ve finally got it (mostly) reinstalled. Here you can see that I rearranged the placement of the stock relays in order to added an extra for aux. fogs.
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And here’s my lambda controller, I’ve opened up the hole in the firewall (where the shift rod used to pivot -early shift rods ) to accommodate the lambda wiring and the CHT thermocouple wire.
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Engine side.. had to buy a 3/4” drill bit to open it
Up enough and it’ll get grommets in both sides.
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I stripped my fuse block before installing the harness and cleaned all of the male and female terminals.
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This shot shows my custom dash layout. On the left of the Column I’m adding an A/F gauge (14point7) and on the right side will be the aux. fog light switch, Dakota digital CHT gauge and an analog voltmeter.
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Having the harness back where it belongs is nice, after all this time!! I’ve added some wires, both front and back for an eventual A/C project.
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Stripes.. the cars not polished out yet but you get the idea.
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I’m not sure if I’m in love with the paint scheme yet.. but it’s fun and I figure I could always change it.
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I got a lot of stuff done since last report, so here’s a little update on my project. I got this car off the rotisserie a few weeks back, installed the windshield, main rubber seals (all new targa seals, a-pillar, b, doors & threshold, etc, etc), reassembled and installed the doors. In short it now stays dry when rained on
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Here’s a shot showing how I had to reroute the wiring loom in the engine compartment because it got too bulky for the traditional route and was fouling the trunk hinge on the driver side (because of extra wiring off the battery - more on that later)
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And I’ve started the dash remodel
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Looking good!
I am intrigued by your dash remodel. Are you making it up or are you following/modifying a previous example?
Quick update :
Got my master cylinder installed, fuel pump mocked up next to the steering rack, installed the pedal box and floor board
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I installed my upper dash (w/ dash cap), refaced the front after changing my mind on the vinyl.. this wool herringbone material with be on the seat insert also
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Installed my AF gauge
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CHT gauge and a voltmeter too
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I took the main gauges apart and added the strip LEDs for illumination, painted the needles and exterior rings- and of course got them installed (no small feet that), oh and added a silver dot to the combo gauge
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I’ve also installed some sound deadener to the firewall and floor. I got more to do to the floors and doors but you get the idea. For the stuff on the floor I doubled it up back to back or (sticky side to sticky side) so that it’s not actually stuck to the floor at all and can easily be lifted out to monitor moisture and rust in the future
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I got the head light buckets etc completely installed as well as the front hood
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I installed an old stock set of positive side stripes that had dried out in a few spots (didn’t realize it before I started the install).. needless to say they’ll need to be replaced
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I rebuilt my axle shaft / CV units a few month back and finally got around to getting them installed on the trailing arms.
Before:
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After:
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And installed
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Not sure why I never posted that the front suspension had been installed, I did it a couple months ago. These are the later wedge bolt style but I’m contemplating switching over to early struts so I can use my aluminum brembo calipers. I went with the later set cause I had a usable set of late rotors on hand. Turbo Tie rods are present and accounted for too:
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I also got around to cutting and edging up my blue wool square weave carpets. This pics is before I finished off the edging but gives a good in process shot
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Here’s a shot of the set installed. Notice I did a little something different at the passengers firewall area.. that area actually has a linear vertical curve, I like it highlighted by the trim and that’s how I did these.
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I still have some automotive jute style underpayment to cut up and install, haven’t gotten around to it just yet.
The rear and long sections:
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Beautiful carpet set. Nice work there!
Very impressive restoration thus far. Some personalization which seems to fit your car quite well. Thanks.
Went through this whole thread and WOW... from where it started to where it is today, amazing. Nice work!
I messed around and reupholster my seats over the last couple days
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They’re not bolted to the sliders yet, but I couldn’t resist setting them in the car for a look see
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I somehow acquired a partial Tangerine Racing SS fuel line replacement kit .. it only had the tunnel lines and I’d installed them several months ago. I knew eventually I’d have to do something about the shorter pieces that go up thru the engine shelf and to and from the fuel rails. So I happened to have some 3/8” tubing and custom bent up the feed line. For the return side (get this) I used the metal part that was fused to the front of the original return fuel line (CSOB ). I just had to put a few bends in it, and good to go!
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Small job completed today - replaced the bushings for my shift rod coupler… well replace is not exactly accurate since there was no sign of any bushing at all to begin with.. didn’t take a bunch of pics, but this one shows the new bushings as I’m about to press the pin back into the assembly. Little steps, but it’s something.
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