I am in the process of changing my oil and adjusting the valves and when I pulled out the strainer I found little pieces of metal shavings. I never saw these the first time I changed the oil after cam break in. Motor has about 500 miles on it.
time to rebuild...or close. thats coming from the inside of the engine...
dood.... lessee pics..
M
QUOTE (grasshopper @ Jul 1 2005, 08:13 PM) |
time to rebuild...or close. thats coming from the inside of the engine... |
QUOTE (redshift @ Jul 1 2005, 08:16 PM) |
dood.... lessee pics.. M |
damn!!! that stinks. any chance they are left over machining particles or are they chunky?
k
QUOTE (rhodyguy @ Jul 1 2005, 08:33 PM) |
any chance they are left over machining particles or are they chunky? k |
How does your filter look? Tear it apart and see what you find.
Check your valves again. See if they're loose.
Report back on your findings. Nothing to panic about, yet. Break-in always has some sort of nastyness in it.
Tom
not unusual - motor on.... Worry time is: bad sounds, low oil pressure, white exhaust smoke, low compression
It's Jimmy Hoffa....look in the filter....change the oil and beat on it like a red headed step child.....then do a sixer conversion....
QUOTE (Manfred Z @ Jul 1 2005, 09:07 PM) |
then do a sixer conversion.... |
QUOTE (Tom Perso @ Jul 1 2005, 08:45 PM) |
How does your filter look? Tear it apart and see what you find. |
Where did you get the cam and lifters?????
QUOTE (Bleyseng @ Jul 2 2005, 12:44 AM) |
Where did you get the cam and lifters????? |
Allan.........
1.) cut the filter (if you still have it) as described and check it for metal.
2.) button the sucker up and run it for a couple of hundred miles...check to see if the valves are seriously out of spec, check the strainer again and cut the filter again.
3.) Take all your clothes off, dance around the car while sucking on any good German Ale, sprinkling rust on the body to the sounds of "I Can't Drive 55" and send the video to A-aron Admin. DO NOT POST THE VIDEO.
Everything will be fine.................
QUOTE (SLITS @ Jul 2 2005, 08:01 AM) |
3.) Take all your clothes off, dance around the car while sucking on any good German Ale, sprinkling rust on the body to the sounds of "I Can't Drive 55" and send the video to A-aron Admin. DO NOT POST THE VIDEO. Everything will be fine................. |
QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Jul 2 2005, 07:11 AM) | ||
DOOD!!!! Never sprinkle rust on a 914. Rust is Tinworm shit, and they live in it. If you sprinkle rust on a 914, you are infecting it with Tinworms. Left untreated, Tinworms will eat a 914!!! |
QUOTE (Bleyseng @ Jul 1 2005, 10:44 PM) |
Where did you get the cam and lifters????? |
QUOTE (Tom Perso @ Jul 2 2005, 05:03 AM) | ||
Good question - even though when they are matched - you can still have them go flat. That's why I'll never build another Hi-Po Type 4 again. If it's not stock, it'll be a 6-er... My 2270 has been a bundle of fun to drive, but a to maintain. Tom |
QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Jul 2 2005, 06:11 AM) | ||
DOOD!!!! Never sprinkle rust on a 914. Rust is Tinworm shit, and they live in it. If you sprinkle rust on a 914, you are infecting it with Tinworms. Left untreated, Tinworms will eat a 914!!! |
Ahhh rust seating... one of the most overlooked steps of break in.
M
QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Jul 2 2005, 06:11 AM) |
DOOD!!!! Never sprinkle rust on a 914. Rust is Tinworm shit, and they live in it. If you sprinkle rust on a 914, you are infecting it with Tinworms. Left untreated, Tinworms will eat a 914!!! |
Just to make you feel better I had small metal particles in the mini when I did the oil change @ 2000 miles.
Manufacture says go to 10K to change oil.
I just can't make myself do that.
I replaced oil with red line and should be getting my freebie change next month 10K. unless you get major valve clearance issues I'd say you'll be OK. I do highly recommend a long drive of maybe 3000 miles @ 80 to 90 MPH only stop for gas. If it holds up you got a one.
QUOTE (Headrage @ Jul 1 2005, 08:20 PM) | ||
Manfreds motor would look good in my car....... I'll even pay for the beer. Unless Andy wants to help, the I'll pay for the beir....bier... You suck Mike... |
Update......
Pulled the valve covers (nothing fell out) and adjusted the valves (first time by the way under the car all by myself ). Nothing too far out of spec. The 3 and 4 cylinder valves seemed to be the ones that tightened up the most. Down to about .003 on intake and .005 on exhaust. Didn't notice anything weird. Buttoned it all back up, filled it up with oil, put in new plugs and headed out for a ride. No strange noises and runs excellent!!!!!!
You running a German oil filter? better not be an orange FRAM, frams are so junky, they will dump crap into your engine. I have had two FRAMs fall apart in use. Make sure you have a Mahle, or Mann oil filter, check you oil again soon, see if there is less metal next time (yippie!!!) also have an oil pressure gage, it is very important, and can tell you is bearings or pump is failing.'
good luck, maybe just break in crap i hope.
QUOTE (dmenche914 @ Jul 3 2005, 04:29 PM) |
You running a German oil filter? |
Ah, a German Filter usingman is truley a wiseman. Let us know if the German filter had a failure, that would be a first for me to hear about. You have a pressure gage? If so, what kind of pressure you get when warmed up at a given rpm?
QUOTE (dmenche914 @ Jul 3 2005, 04:37 PM) |
You have a pressure gage? |
I'd budget for that pressure gage, It is really handy to have, good to let you know if you have low oil, helps you know if your oil is getting too hot (it will thin out, dropping pressure) now a temp gage will tell you oil temp, but it can't give you pressure. A pressure gage will tell you if the oil is getting too hot, so given the choice of one or the other, go for the pressure gage. Also useful to let you know if your hard cornering is moving the oil away from the pick up tube, yikes, sudden pressure loss, so time to slow down on them turns (the oil baffle plate used on later engines helps a lot with this)
Anyway, you'll want to monitor you expensive engien investment with an oil pressure gage. Easy to install, use an electric one, not a direct mechanical one, as the mechanical one has too slow a response time with the long tubing needed to reach the engine, and thus won't tell you if you momentarily lose pressure in a fast turn.
Get that gage, record what is normal for your new engine, and keep an eye on it. It will also help in selecting the correct wieght (viscosity) of oil to use.
good luck on your new motor!!!!
Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)