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Posted by: Daryl32 Jan 14 2020, 02:36 PM

So just a hello and introduction.

I am Daryl - sorta old and have been working on cars since 1969. Mostly Chevy's and Dodge's - then a 30 years or so I got my first taste of German engineering with a BMW E21 320i we were given as our Dd died on us.

So I am here because a friend of a friend needed help with a project. We thought it just needed some carb work and a couple of leaks sorted out.

The project have taken on the project of working out some issues with a chevy 350 converted 1973 914, the conversion is most likely 10 plus years old. I believe the kit is a Renegade kit.

Some of the issues were it bleeds fluid very where the tranny and engine can. Most of the leaks have been addressed and stopped "I hope".

Heads were replaced because both were cracked.
New Holley carb will go on with new intake with square bore pattern for more choices in carbs.

New electric water pump

Lots of bent and rusty parts blasted and powder coated or replaced.

Now that all this is done I need to fix the wiring and try to put it all back together.

I can find lots of pictures of Chevy v8's from the top seating in the cars, But I could use some good pictures of the bottom of the car.

Shiftier issues I need to address.
Fuel line placement to carb
Thorttel cable placements with carb facing forward.
Where did you run your wiring harness to the engine bay?

I am sure I will have more questions by the day.









May work bench - sorta.

Posted by: Daryl32 Jan 14 2020, 02:59 PM

Engine as of 12noon today

Posted by: DickSteinkamp Jan 14 2020, 06:13 PM

I'm sorta old too...but still playing with cars.

I finished my SBC conversion this summer. Mostly Renegade conversion parts. Mine has their belt driven water pump set up.











Here's a few underneath shots...







Describe your shifter issues. You should have the side shift trany in your 73 which actually shifts quite nicely with new shifter bushings all the way through and adjusted correctly.

I replaced the FI fuel pump with a lower pressure one for a carb. Used the stock fuel lines back to the engine compartment. Short piece of hose from it to the carb.


Off the shelf aftermarket throttle linkage holder and stock throttle cable.




Stock 914 wiring harness with just a few simple mods to run the fuel pump without the ECU and to light the alternator idiot light.


Plenty of help available here on the World. I could not have done mine without this forum.

Posted by: Daryl32 Jan 14 2020, 06:40 PM

Dick thank you so much for the pictures and reply!!!!

You have an amazingly clean car!

I will be going over these and most likely asking a lot more questions.

And to start:

What distributor are you using? An old Mallory?

And is that a Moroso carb wedge?

What about air cleaner to hood clearance.

One last one for now, did you close off the open expanded metal hood? Chevy v8 do not like to get wet, or do you just drive it on sunny days?

Posted by: Daryl32 Jan 14 2020, 06:50 PM

Shifting issues are simply very hard to shift. I was thinking some of the issue is due to the "U" bend in the shifter rod from the tranny shift pivot to the connection at the firewall. Thinking the rod weight is per loading the shifter to the second and third gear side? I am thinking I may make it worse to get it to go around the new racing oil pan?

The bushing at the firewall seems new, I will check it again when I get back under the car.

The stick in the car does not appear to be a stock 914 piece. I need to get a picture of it to post up.

Posted by: DickSteinkamp Jan 14 2020, 06:59 PM

Yes it is a Mallory dual point marine dizzy. Centrifugal only advance. It's the only dizzy I could find that didn't require a hole cut in the front of the rear trunk.

I don't know who made the wedge. I probably got it from Summit.

Minimal air cleaner to hood clearance.

Rain tray and part of the structure of the engine cover was removed for air cleaner clearance. My first outing with the car was from my home to Seattle (90 miles). Hard rain both ways but the car didn't mind any.

Posted by: burton73 Jan 14 2020, 07:05 PM

Sorry I saw this earlier today, WELCOME to 914World


Dicks v8 car is one of the cleanest V8 914 I have ever seen.


Bob B Los Angeles

Posted by: DickSteinkamp Jan 14 2020, 07:26 PM

In mine, the shift rod from the firewall to the trans is stock...except it has been lengthened 1.25 inches since the engine and trans is set back 1.25". You can see in the picts that there is a stock U shaped bend in it. If you have the Hanes manual, there is a procedure for adjusting the shifter. You may want to give that a try.

Posted by: Daryl32 Jan 14 2020, 10:23 PM

The one in this car has been cut sleeved and welded back together also but seems to have a lot more bend in it then yours.

Posted by: Daryl32 Jan 14 2020, 10:26 PM

Thank you.

Dick's car is very clean and straight - a great example of how to do it right!

Which is what I need moving forward with this refurbish for my customer - new friend.

Posted by: Daryl32 Jan 15 2020, 05:58 PM

So I have a couple more questions for the 914 V8 owners / builders.

#1 how big do the vents you cut out in the front wheel wells need to be?

This is what this 914 has.






As for the radiator and fan I believe they are good. The radiator is a double pass through piece, water goes from one side into a large tank on the other and back again to the first side. Radiator has two core in it.




As mentioned above we have gone with an electric water pump for the refurbish. It is a Davis Craig unit out of Australia, we also bought the Davis Craig water manifold that mounts to the stock water pump position.

As a mechanic and car builder I am VERY IMPRESSED with these parts!






This water pump came with an electronic controller. That with a temp sending unit, lets you set the temp when the pump turns on and off as well as the electric fan. Thinking this might be a really nice feature!

Posted by: Daryl32 Jan 27 2020, 10:43 AM

Just a quick up date on the re-build

As they were when pulled out transmission and engine:








As the engine is today - once refurbished wiring harness is in car I can assembly engine and transmission and get them back into car.

Posted by: Daryl32 Jan 27 2020, 04:32 PM

Davis Craig water pump and header/manifold installed and along with alternator and new finished support bracket for it.

Made an engine wiring harness so that the engine and trans wires can be unplugged one place and both removed / installed pre-wired. Except for battery cables and alternator power wire.

Mostly need to work on the car now - Wiring - fuel delivery - tank and fuel pump placement.

And flywheel clutch and transmission assembly to engine

Posted by: Cairo94507 Jan 28 2020, 08:17 AM

Very nicely done. Looking forward to seeing pictures of it installed and running.

Posted by: Daryl32 Jan 28 2020, 08:58 AM

Thank you!

I am looking forward to seeing it installed and running also. Going to have to have an adult beverage drink - consumption BBQ to celebrate!

Back in Oct. when the owner brought it over we were only going to clean up and tune the carb!

Posted by: Daryl32 Jan 29 2020, 07:27 PM

Got a little closer today after some prolonged - pushing, shoving, pulling, jerking then shoving, pulling, pushing and pushing and pulling and .... so on.

The wiring harness is sorta back in the car, pushed it into and through the stock position with a lot of

But it is in and positioned.

Posted by: Daryl32 Jan 31 2020, 11:12 AM

Some more work in the engine bay - fuel filters and pump. Also secured all the wiring harness branches with rubber lines clamps. Today i need to cut off the screw ends inside the interior of the fire wall.

Bent and installed a steel fuel line for the V8 Carburetor.

Posted by: Cairo94507 Jan 31 2020, 12:18 PM

Just please make sure all of the fuel line clamps are the correct clamps for rubber lines - we definitely don't want to see any engine compartment fires.

Posted by: nihil44 Jan 31 2020, 05:47 PM

Are those the original plastic fuel lines going through the tunnel?

Posted by: Daryl32 Jan 31 2020, 07:49 PM

Yes owner wants to wait to change them out at his shop, my hours are getting up there.

I really wanted to change them out, but they are on the suck side of the pump so they are not under any pressure. And he drove it down from SF in Oct. with no fuel leaks. Just a lot of engine oil and water along with the trany leaking really bad.

Posted by: Daryl32 Jan 31 2020, 07:53 PM

Not sure the stores you have in Australia but here I like to shop at NAPA for things like clamps. I like the ones that have extensions under the screw.

Posted by: Daryl32 Jan 31 2020, 08:00 PM

Engine and Transmission moved closer to home today.!

What do you use to paint the trans case, shop washed it but this Magnesium case looks really bad.

Posted by: Daryl32 Feb 3 2020, 07:42 PM

So just thinking out load.

With some sawzall work I can just push the engine and tranns into place easy-peasy?

What you think?

Posted by: DickSteinkamp Feb 3 2020, 08:54 PM

After I degreased mine, I hit it with a fine wire wheel on my drill...

Posted by: Daryl32 Feb 4 2020, 09:31 AM

VERY NICE!!!!!

Posted by: TargaToy Feb 4 2020, 10:54 AM

That looks fantastic!! And that's just the effects of the wire brushing? No paint or polish?

Posted by: DickSteinkamp Feb 4 2020, 11:46 AM

Yes. Just brushing. Being magnesium I doubt if it will look bright and shiny for long, however.

Posted by: Cairo94507 Feb 4 2020, 03:26 PM

I know Dr. Evil sprayed some type of coating on my transaxle to keep it from corroding or oxidizing. Also, it will be easier to keep clean too.

Posted by: TargaToy Feb 4 2020, 03:41 PM

Dang. That looks great too. Inspirational.

Posted by: Gearup Feb 4 2020, 05:31 PM

I used a wire wheel as well on my drill and it ended up beautifully. I covered up everything I wanted protected and then shot it with a light coat of clear to try and maintain some of the shine.


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Posted by: Gearup Feb 4 2020, 05:32 PM

l

Looks like Teflon

Posted by: Daryl32 Feb 5 2020, 08:02 AM

Those all look great!

Posted by: Daryl32 Feb 5 2020, 08:13 AM

With help I got the engine and trans put in on Monday.

But had to take them back out Tuesday morning as the Davis Craig header (water manifold) on the front f the engine was up against the heat shield shelf on the fire wall.

So after pulling the engine and trans back out I cut the shelf down, moved the wiring and put some reinforced rubber edging on the cut edge.

Was able to get the engine and trans back in and all bolted up by 4:30 pm.

Here are some pictures for you to go over. I did not do anything to the trans case as I am getting a lot of hours in this project and need to get it buttoned up.

Posted by: Daryl32 Feb 5 2020, 08:16 AM

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Posted by: dakotaewing Feb 8 2020, 05:23 PM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1372 Can you tell us what you normally use?

Posted by: Daryl32 Feb 11 2020, 07:32 PM

Got some more done today.

Got the half shafts installed on trans, finished up the exhaust - with new stainless steel welded together mufflers, readjusted shifter linkage - seems better (thanks for the advise in the over thread).

Lots of little things to do still, do two things on the punch list and add two more!

Posted by: Daryl32 Feb 15 2020, 11:44 PM

We were able to get the engine to fire up and run for a couple of minutes Friday afternoon.

Had help from the owner and a good friend of ours.

I have some minor issue to work out with the operation of the engine and a good bit of wiring to still deal with. But it will run!!1

Carb is a new Holley 570 CFM Street Avenger.

Posted by: Daryl32 Mar 20 2020, 04:08 PM

So it has been awhile since I posted an update on the car.

Had to fix my personal truck which took a better part of three weeks.

I did do some work on the Porsche during that time and the last two weeks more. I have not been taking as many pictures as the work is small back wrenching things. Centered in the interior and to do with wiring, clutch cable, throttle cable issues. Like pushing the clutch in and having it push on the throttle cable.

Removed a clutch pedal - cable arm extension. It was in contact with the throttle cable causing a few issues. I ended up taking it out of car as I could not get it to stop touching the throttle cable.

Trying to get the wires tucked up under the dash and get the gauges and Davis Craig controller all wired up and permanently installed.

At the point with the wiring where I am down to getting a fuse panel in the car the wired.

Posted by: Daryl32 Mar 20 2020, 04:28 PM

The car came with some interior parts that needed install so I have been working on these.

#1 an aftermarket center console. NOTE: it does not fit well at all with the short shift lever and spacer in the car. Made it work as well as possible.

#2 an older used under dash pad, it is incorrect one for the dash outer speakers. It comes into the face of dash too much. Again made it / installed anyway.

#3 A Cloth glue on dash cover. Personally thinking paint the dash would have looked better in the long run.

#4 A set of four older VDO gauges, they needed cleaning and a home. The center console supplied piece for gauges had three large holes 25/8" or so. VDO gauges more like 2". So I made a new piece out of some 3/16" white birch plywood I had.

#5 Installed the pedal cover board.

I also took apart, cleaned and regressed the shift leveler.

Seeing the engine is water cooled and the stock heater-blower is no long working. I made a circuit breaker/switch panel out of 1/6" aluminum to go the heater control position. The circuit breakers are for the fuel pump, electric water pump, Davis Craig controller hot lead and the fan hot to the relay. Easier to see and push then finding the fuse and replacing.

Posted by: Daryl32 Mar 20 2020, 04:34 PM

The VDO water temp sender has a dual function. It works the gauge and has a warning light function also. So the red light next to the water temp gauge is the warning light.

The red light above the Davis Craig fan/water pump controller is a test light for it.

Posted by: Daryl32 Mar 20 2020, 04:37 PM

Couple more progress pictures.

Posted by: Daryl32 Mar 20 2020, 04:52 PM

While working on my truck I needed to weld some things to the frame - so I welded up a throttle cable mount for the engine. I modified the Renegade piece for the stock cable. Then I used their idea to make another one for a second cable.

I just could not stop thinking of the position of the carb and the angle it sat in the car at. We added a 5.5 degree angle wedge to level the carb on the engine in the car.

Need to get the engine to start without a pump and start the tuning of it. Timing - carb mixtures and ideal speed. Also need to make sure the throttle pedal works with the carb, Meaning flooring it opens the carb ALL the way!

Here are some pictures of the throttle cable and stuff.

Posted by: Daryl32 Mar 20 2020, 05:05 PM

Looking at the pictures of the carb I remembered the work in bracing the Renegade water filler.

Also mounted the overflow tank and a piece of aluminum / shelf in the engine bay drivers side.









Also replaced all the 1.5" water lines in the whole car. Added 1.5" bent aluminum tubes in the front by the radiator. Bending the rubber hose in the front was causing them to kink and close off.

I ending up using one 90 degree piece and one 45 degree piece.

Posted by: FL 000 Mar 20 2020, 07:07 PM

I like the tweeter in the vent idea - I made need to copy that idea

Posted by: Daryl32 Mar 21 2020, 08:40 AM

The tweeter is just held in by the foam, seems to be a good mount for the little thing!

Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Mar 21 2020, 09:05 AM

I have a 327 300 hp in mine, plenty of pulling power and the engine runs perfectly and is actually very cool running. Kept it all stock with points and condenser and the original Holley carb. It idles very smoothly and has INSTANT pickup. Never though of changing the engine to a 350 or anything larger

Posted by: Jett Mar 21 2020, 09:31 AM

Why don’t 914 V8 builders use fuel injection? Might have better clearance.



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Posted by: mepstein Mar 21 2020, 09:42 AM

Cost and complexity. They are usually looking for easy and cheap. Not all but at least in the past, it was a common reason for the swap.
We did an LS swap with FI into a 928 track car. 525HP in a mostly gutted out, track ready car really made it move. It took more time than the owner expected to make it all run and look right.

Posted by: Jett Mar 21 2020, 09:55 AM

Makes sense. The new LS7 in this configuration is expensive but would look cool in a 914. That said, the 928 v8 seems like a better choice if money is not the primary concern.

Posted by: Daryl32 Mar 21 2020, 06:39 PM

Every nice Vette!!!!!!!

I have a non-stock 327 (331) in my 65 wagon.

Posted by: Daryl32 Mar 21 2020, 06:42 PM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=17686 as Mepstein said money, but also these conversions started before the LS motors came out. 327s & 350s were a dime a dozen back then.

This one came to me with the 350 in it just to get back up and running.

Posted by: Jett Mar 21 2020, 08:59 PM

Nice wagon. We have a 67 Nova Wagon

Posted by: Daryl32 Mar 21 2020, 10:38 PM

Nice I always liked the 67 Novas!

Posted by: Daryl32 Apr 6 2020, 12:03 PM

Here is a video of the third test drive on the refurbished engine and other stuff.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PC35YSgBTtE

Now I have to work on a bobble/scoop for over the carburetor. Just no way to get the an air cleaner any lower and keep the intake setup we settled on. Owner decided on performance over stealth.

Posted by: FL 000 Apr 6 2020, 04:25 PM

Sounds like it's running good!

The space is limited below the decklid as you mentioned. If you are willing to remove the support channel under the grate it may just fit. I had to do that and go with a thin spacer under the carb.

Posted by: Daryl32 Apr 16 2020, 10:11 PM

Thank you for the idea. Have been looking at it and pretty sure it will be coming out tomorrow.

I found my oil leak! stupid is as stupid does". I did not put the alternator on the right side on the engine And I did not put bolts in the holes as usual to make them look better. As you can not see the front of the engine when it is in the car.

BUT: the top hole is a through hole into the bore for the stock mechanical fuel pump drive shaft. So with not shaft and no bolt in the hole - oil mist was coming out of the hole. And it was dripping also.

So I put a nice new gold grade 8 bolt in it like I do for more muscle car engines. Problem solved.


Today I finished up the headlight and front blinker wiring, so now just need to put on some weather stripping/molding and put fuses in and see what SMOKES!!!! LOL

Getting the headlights out of the car was a long and tedious job. ALL the screws securing the lights to the frames had stripped heads. As well as all four adjusters between the two of them. Had to use vise grips on them at 1/16 to 1/8 turn at a time.

Anyway got them out and ran the new wires in place of the old. And got it all back together.









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NEED THIS BOLT to stop oil from coming out of engine.




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Posted by: Daryl32 May 1 2020, 10:18 AM

I have been working on the car - down to lots of little tidie up things.

Getting engine cover on - cut off the cross support
Mounted rear trunk lid and installed some gas struts to keep it open
Pulled Accel coil out of it's big cover and put it back with a stock GM cover
Installed some new door seals
B piller rear door glass seals
trunk seals
reinstalled the rear window - it was loose
While refitting the rear window I fixed both rear top clamps
Installed some of the carpet kit
Got the hazard and blinkers to work
and more.

Two weeks ago I got the head lights working - link to youtube video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KX_RLvkssq8&t=35s


Drove it around town and down the freeway yesterday to shack it down and see how it fared. So far GREAT!

The Davis Craig electric water pump and controller really do a great job of keeping the engine temps down. Also love the feature that runs the water pump and fan for 3 minutes after the car is shut off. you pull up and park with the engine temp at 185 to 195, depending on your drive, and 3 minutes later the temp is 170 or so.

Not sure how 914 stock suspension is, but this car with it 911 suspension, brakes and 16" wheels is really stable on the freeway. And with the 350 in it it goes from 40ish to 90ish in 3, 4th or 5th pretty quickly.

Posted by: Daryl32 May 1 2020, 10:21 AM

Ready for the drive around town and down the freeway.

Posted by: Daryl32 May 2 2020, 03:33 PM

Drove the car about 50 miles today, lots of freeway.

The cooling system is working perfect so far. Davis Craig units all the way!!!

Never went over 193 and cooled back down to 180 quickly after the radiator fan turned on.

Posted by: Daryl32 May 2 2020, 08:24 PM

Dick how are you doing.

Being driving the 914 for the last week on and off, giving it a shack down.

What tranny mounts are you running?

I thing the ones in the car are worn out and not sure solid ones are the way to go?

Daryl.

Posted by: DickSteinkamp May 2 2020, 08:44 PM

I'm running the stock trans mounts...with the Renegade spacers. They seem to work fine for me. I do not have a high HP motor...maybe 230 HP, 270 ft lbs torque.

Posted by: ndfrigi May 2 2020, 09:30 PM

Daryl, Nice seeing your car runs well this morning drive! Hope to see you more often.

Posted by: 914boss Jun 22 2020, 10:57 AM

Hey Daryl ! I run a pretty similar set up ! What fuel pump is it your using ? I have the same one It came on the car and boy is it loud lol



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Posted by: burton73 Jun 22 2020, 02:50 PM

Hi Daryl,

I have sent you an email.

Thanks,

Bob B in Inglewood

Posted by: Bruce Hinds Jul 19 2020, 06:43 PM

Very Nice Dick.

A true sleeper with the single exhaust for sure.

BTW where did you get the 914 8 emblem on the back?