A few issues here , after the bushing disintegrated I ordered new stuff, a new firewall bushing from RIX914PARTS and other goodies from 914rubber.com, and a new brass bushing for the coupling, however I can’t get the pin out, and I’m going to mess up the pin end and it’s not going to slide thru if I do that- so I’m going to have to find a press I guess somewhere?
1. Should it be that tight ?
2. Is this a normal weld end?
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lube the pin, support the coupler in a vice with wood to cushion and drive out the pin, Replace the coupler bushings with the special delrin variety with the completely round hole
That was one of the more frustrating tasks I've had to do. Getting the pin out was surprisingly difficult. I think I ended up putting it in a vice with a drift and using the floor jack handle as leverage on the vice handle. Penetrating oil, heat, and crank a little on the vice. Lil' bugger finally let go.
My bushing disintegrated at VA state safety inspection when the guy at the garage couldn't figure out how to get into 1st gear and ended up man-handling it. I've got the brass one now.
Good luck, Phil.
You will never regret getting a press. It’s one of those things you didn’t know you needed until you have one.
2. Normal
The coupler is not that strong. It's better to support the rod. I like to use a long socket under the pin - basically hammer or press the pin into the socket.
I've done a bunch of those. I use two sockets, one for a "cup" and the other for a pin. Make sure the pin isn't pitted badly or it can chew on the bushing.
Dr. Phil,
A couple of links I found helpful:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=56765&st=20
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0I5HOBvQbg
I used the vise and socket method....
From the pictures the pin ends look pretty distorted. That won't make the task any easier.
https://sierramadrecollection.com/Shift-Coupler-with-Bushings-911-912-930-65-88-p22232.html
Any reason why these could not be used, looks like comes with coupler bushing and pin
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Why replace a perfectly good part ?
You still have to press the shaft out of the old assembly.
We had looked at making these but got down to that question.
Perhaps we make an entire assembly?
Easy swap out.
Six inch vice, the two socket method....and that would be my go to even though I do have a press.
1/2 step forward and 4 steps backwards with those fancy ones. Cutting, welding?, tapping?, ruining a functional rod? Dress the pin with a file, put in the new bushings and be done with it. Put glycerin on the pin and bushings.
DrPhil, if all fails, I do have a nice one for sale $75.00. Mark
Personally I’d replace it since if the repairs are not spot on it tweak the alignment of everything.
Not that expensive...
911 has an oval hole in the bushings that won't work with the 914. You will still have to change bushings on the new unit
Ok tried getting the pin to move with clamp press method , no-go.
Posting an update! I had given up after taking my bar to 2 different places that didn’t want to mess with it or were worried about messing up the coupling, so I mad arrangement to get a nice bar from Bruce Stone, and send it to Rauch and Spiegel in Co. you 911 and 356 guys know them as the company that makes the billet coupler unit that is a replacement for stock, btw this is identical to stock spec wise and is same as ours, the only difference is end of the bar on ours is welded to the real linkage bar, on 911 it is not as you can see in the pictures. Anyway Rauch will install their coupler, bushing and pin on our bar. The pin is different in that it has 2 cone screws that retain it rather than depending on the splines that’s are in a stock pin that hold it in place. So they will still and tap our bar end to be secured with their coupler!!
Now I suppose one could have them just send me the coupler and use the stock pin with any bushings desired as well, but I am having mine done by them, and will post the pictures of this when it come in. Rauch has been super cool to work with and amazing to offer to do this for just one person!
Meanwhile back at the ranch, I went out a bought a big heavy duty bench vice and after soaking my bar/pin in pb blaster , using the socket method I finally got it to budge!!!, and once extracted thru a 1 hour process , I cleaned off all rust from the pin, and using the bronze bushings reinstalled the bar to the car. I also got the bronze console bushing from 914werks and a firewall bushing from RIX914PARTS, and the new rear and feont covers from 914rubber.
Here are a couple pictures. Shifting is super tight and smooth, I would liken it to the Boxster for tightness now.
Bruce has a jig to align the bars . I think most people that have issues still have the issues due to bent or miss alignment of bars!
I have to thank Bruce for taking time to talk on the phone and help me out. I will be getting the other bar later on and will install it to compare the feel of these.
I think it’s great to have an option for a super nice coupler replacement.
Phil
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i wish I had taken better pictures of the pin to show how the 3 spines are. its like they made a little cut and it causes it to bow out just enough that this is why it is hard to get them out. With mine it was original and never out before, so I had a good bit of rust holding it in as well. Once I had it out and cleaned it up with some 1000grit sand paper, it was much easier to press it into place, but still not easy and this is good. I also had to file smooth the ends since I had marred the one end from trying to strike it with a hammer. anyway if you do this and it is really easy to press it into place, you might want to do what Rauch and Spiegel does and drill and counter sink and tap for a threaded set screw to make sure the pin does not come out.
Here is mine using the later stouter 911 coupler. 911 has extra gussets. Used anti-seize compound on pin because of difference of metal.
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Update:
Just got a couple pictures of that shift linkage and coupler that I had done at Rauch and Spiegel in Colorado. I did this when I was having difficulty getting the pin out of mine and thought it was not going to come out clean, so I started to research the 911 couplers that are available. There is the factory one that 914sixer used pictured in a previous post in this thread, and this one here by Rauch. I bought the powder coated bar from Bruce Stone, @bdstone thanks Bruce!! He sent this to Rauch for me and they installed their bushing(round derlin) and their coupler and pin system. This requires drilling a tapping the end of the bar for the set screws that hold the pin. So if this were ever to be replaced it’s as easy as removing the set screws and not having to press the pin out like in the stock application. The factory never intended these to have to be replaced so once pressed out and in again it’s possible it will not stay,
Especially under heavy load and use like DE and racing. I was able to get my other one out so I installed the brass bushing and I have to say it feels very tight!
Once I get the new bar and coupler from Rauch next week I will install it and see how it feels and report back.
George at Rauch said he has done others for 914 owners but I have not heard of anyone to this point around here that has used this coupler on their 914. I though you all would appreciate knowing there is an alternative out there .
Phil
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That s the first time I have seen the bronze coupler bushings. Who sells them?
I already have the bronze shifter console bushing. and it was a little stiff until it wore in some.
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