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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Should I move my fuel pump?

Posted by: Lilchopshop Mar 2 2020, 07:25 AM

I've been working hard on my newly-acquired 73 2.0. Thanks to everyone on this site for all the inspiration and motivation! Currently have engine out, engine compartment stripped, interior stripped, gas tank out. Since the car has been sitting for 30+ years, i decided I would replace all the fuel lines. I plan to buy a complete stainless fuel line kit from Tangerine. In the state I'm at currently, it would be an ideal time to re-locate the fuel pump. I plan to keep the D-jet injection. Should I move the fuel pump to under the tank? Are there any down sides to this? What pump should I get?

Thanks in advance,
Aaron

Posted by: Root_Werks Mar 2 2020, 11:49 AM

I'll probably get whacked for saying this, but yes, I'd move it to the front and swap over to a 2 port fuel pump. The 3 ports are period correct for 73', but hard to come by. You're moving the pump anyway, might as well convert to the 75-76 configuration.

Posted by: KELTY360 Mar 2 2020, 12:28 PM

Move it. That's what the factory told dealerships to do when problems emerged out of the gate. You'll never know what you're missing when you're not stuck alongside the road waiting for the pump to cool.

Posted by: Jamie Mar 2 2020, 12:39 PM

Been there, done that, several years ago after being stranded several times with the typical heat soak/vapor lock. Has worked like a charm since I was also restoring fuel lines and tank.

Posted by: Lilchopshop Mar 2 2020, 01:21 PM

QUOTE(Root_Werks @ Mar 2 2020, 12:49 PM) *

I'll probably get whacked for saying this, but yes, I'd move it to the front and swap over to a 2 port fuel pump. The 3 ports are period correct for 73', but hard to come by. You're moving the pump anyway, might as well convert to the 75-76 configuration.


Forgive my ignorance, but what is the functional difference between a 3-port, early pump and a 2-port, late pump. Will the 2-port pump work seamlessly with my D-jet? I'm putting functionality over period-correctness on this car.

Posted by: Root_Werks Mar 2 2020, 01:24 PM

QUOTE(Lilchopshop @ Mar 2 2020, 11:21 AM) *

QUOTE(Root_Werks @ Mar 2 2020, 12:49 PM) *

I'll probably get whacked for saying this, but yes, I'd move it to the front and swap over to a 2 port fuel pump. The 3 ports are period correct for 73', but hard to come by. You're moving the pump anyway, might as well convert to the 75-76 configuration.


Forgive my ignorance, but what is the functional difference between a 3-port, early pump and a 2-port, late pump. Will the 2-port pump work seamlessly with my D-jet? I'm putting functionality over period-correctness on this car.


No functional difference, it'll work fine and is simple to plumb the lines. Look how a 75'-76' 2.0 914 is plumbed in any repair manual. Follow that and you're good to go.

Posted by: 914werke Mar 2 2020, 01:57 PM

QUOTE(KELTY360 @ Mar 2 2020, 10:28 AM) *
Move it. That's what the factory told dealerships to do when problems emerged out of the gate.
& then made permanent in 75/76
agree.gif

Posted by: JamesM Mar 2 2020, 03:49 PM

QUOTE(Lilchopshop @ Mar 2 2020, 06:25 AM) *

Should I move the fuel pump to under the tank?

YES! If you dont do it now, you probably will wind up just doing it later anyways.

QUOTE(Lilchopshop @ Mar 2 2020, 06:25 AM) *

Are there any down sides to this?

NO, not if you are already swapping out the lines for SS. and TBH the factory did it without swapping the lines so even that might not be needed, but after 50 years I would.

QUOTE(Lilchopshop @ Mar 2 2020, 06:25 AM) *

What pump should I get?


Anything that puts out the necessary pressure. Stock 3 port pump works just fine but i usually like updating to a 2 port just for simplicity in hose routing. 75-76 style pumps could still be had new for a reasonable price last time i looked but those require you also use the 75-76 filter with the huge outlet on them. One of my cars has an MSD pump upfront (overkill) and another has a different bosch 2 port with a 3/8 inlet.


FYI, on my one car that still has a rear mounted pump I have found that the problem becomes much worse if your gas has Ethanol in it due to Ethanols lower boiling point of 173F (yet another reason to buy ethanol free gas). With ambient temps of asphalt on a hot day hitting ~140 and a fuel pump sitting right off the road and inches away from your exhaust its not uncommon for the ethanol to boil in the pump itself, especially at higher altitudes. This is a far more annoying issue to deal with on the side of the road than just boiling it in the engine bay lines as those vapors can be cleared by venting or sometimes just cycling the pump. When the ethanol is boiling on the inlet side of the pump or in the filter though you have to find ways to cool it down (and then keep it cool) if you want to keep the fuel moving and get home.

Just move the pump and forget about it.

Posted by: sholman5 Mar 2 2020, 04:05 PM

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-69469-Original-Equipment-Replacement/dp/B001LPNEN8
We put one on a 74 le.

Posted by: EdwardBlume Mar 2 2020, 04:07 PM

I’ve done both. Moved a ‘73 2.0 and didn’t regret it. Not hard. Some benefits.

Left Dads car’s fuel pump by the engine but replaced the ever failing 3 port with the modern 2 port. I like things to work vs being a purist.

Posted by: 914_teener Mar 2 2020, 06:10 PM

I would not move the pump to the front...UNLESS you are replacing the tunnel lines. Do one .....do both.

That said I moved my d jet pump to the fire wall on the passenger side above the air deflector and never had a problem....115 degees ambient...never vapor locked.






Posted by: EdwardBlume Mar 2 2020, 06:37 PM

My 73 vapor locked liked crazy. Stock location. Autocross, freeway, summer temps. Moving it fixed it.

I agree with line replacement. A must do if the engine is out.

Posted by: Jett Mar 2 2020, 06:51 PM

For me the pump location was based on the intended use of the car. Our 73 1.7 daily driver has the pump moved, while our factory restored 73 2.0 is in the stock location. In both cases we replaced the tunnel lines.

Posted by: Lilchopshop Mar 3 2020, 05:58 AM

Thanks all! I appreciate the advice! I'm going for a reliable driver here, so the pump's gonna get moved. Sorry if I'm offending any of the purists!

Posted by: VaccaRabite Mar 3 2020, 07:55 AM

Never worry about the purists.
Build the car that you want to build.
In this case moving the pump (and changing to a 2 port pump) is a no-brainer.

If you don't move to a 2 port pump, you are going to have a plumbing mess under the tank. Been there, done that, new 2 port fuel pumps are not expensive.

Zach

Posted by: JOEPROPER Mar 25 2020, 10:23 AM

QUOTE(sholman5 @ Mar 2 2020, 06:05 PM) *

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-69469-Original-Equipment-Replacement/dp/B001LPNEN8
We put one on a 74 le.

Will this pump work with a D-Jet system? I don't see any fuel pump pressure output specs.

Posted by: Bmw635 Mar 25 2020, 10:59 AM

Yes, any pump with correct port size to the hose should work as it requires only 30 psi to engine.

Posted by: ClayPerrine Mar 25 2020, 12:37 PM

I have used an Airtex E8445 pump for years. 1 in, 1 out, 7mm fittings on both, and the correct pressure and volume for D-Jet or L-Jet. The upside is it is readily available at your FLAPS for around $100.00. You can get any pump that FLAPS sells as a cross reference equivalent.

They come with mounting brackets and all the necessary parts to make it fit nicely. But I do suggest you put a low pressure filter in front of the pump to protect from tank crud ruining it.

Good Luck!

Posted by: JOEPROPER Mar 25 2020, 01:46 PM

Thanks for the replies. I ordered the Bosch from Amazon. And some incidentals from AA to go along with it. Pictures to follow later. Maybe.

Posted by: Montreal914 Mar 25 2020, 02:14 PM

Going through the same modification as I am converting my 73 now 2056 to Microsquirt.

Just received my pump from Amazon yesterday and ordered my Wix filter today. Also, I bought some aluminum barb hose adapters to go through the various steps ups/down required by the line diameters. I am also replacing for the SS tunnel and engine bay lines.

Links to my parts: beerchug.gif

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-69133-Original-Equipment-Replacement/dp/B000BZL8S2/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=bosch+69133&qid=1585167069&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-69133-Original-Equipment-Replacement/dp/B000BZL8S2/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=bosch+69133&qid=1585167069&sr=8-1

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=133327641694&_sacat=0


Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Mar 25 2020, 02:25 PM

no only if it is causing vapor lock. Make sure all of the plumbing is tightly installed and the fuel pump is correctly mounted and that the bellows flaps are installed and the engine is running as cooly as possible and you should be ok


QUOTE(Lilchopshop @ Mar 2 2020, 06:25 AM) *

I've been working hard on my newly-acquired 73 2.0. Thanks to everyone on this site for all the inspiration and motivation! Currently have engine out, engine compartment stripped, interior stripped, gas tank out. Since the car has been sitting for 30+ years, i decided I would replace all the fuel lines. I plan to buy a complete stainless fuel line kit from Tangerine. In the state I'm at currently, it would be an ideal time to re-locate the fuel pump. I plan to keep the D-jet injection. Should I move the fuel pump to under the tank? Are there any down sides to this? What pump should I get?

Thanks in advance,
Aaron


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