I figured I would make a build here. I am very active on the facebook group and have received some great feedback and help from the guys over there. I will try and remeber to update this as I complete some work.
I'm in my late 20's and have wanted a 914 for a long while now. I've been through 11 or 12 VW's water and aircooled - Rabbits, Caddys, Beetle, etc... so it's natural progression I suppose.
I found this car in Louisville and towed it home last summer. A friend looked at it for me. Gave me the OK, said there was minor rust, but a solid project. I paid for the car, and drove out that weekend. Upon arrival I found there to be a pretty severe case of rust...
I stored the car the rest of the year - bit the bullet and decided to go to town on the structural repairs.
It is the color and the car I want. I work in fabrication by trade, so I am not too scared to take on this project.
I will not be driving the car until I feel it’s solid.
I am cutting some corners - depending on how you look at it. This is a budget build. But I will be using as many replacement parts (AA and RD) as I can. Without removing too much of the car.
12/70 vin. Added to database.
Off the road since 1998.
1.7 gunky motor.
70k miles shown, iirc. So probably 170k
Came with late style black adjustable seats.
Fix structural rust so I can drive the car ASAP
I’d like to keep original paint (too late)
Fix as much rust as I can. (Hell hole, shelf, passenger long, floors)
Drop in replacement motor
Run new brake and fuel lines
2.0 down the road?
This will be a cars and coffee cruiser, not a concour restoration (sorry!)
I just want to drive MY 914!
The car as I found it:
Looking forward to seeing the progress on your project.
As requested, as for the ugly...
Welcome to the World!!!
As you know, there's a wealth of information here. That's a rusty car but many have started with worse. You've got a leg up, being able to fab. Can't wait to see progress pics!
My dad and I picked up a running 1.7 for next to nothing. Will get me on the road faster..
Pulled the old motor:
Got a steal on some new floors - $200 for the pair original parts:
Fabbed up a quick fix to the trunk pull (it wasn't attached and rusted through)
Great color and a good project.
Before you put that motor in you may want to check all of the suspension mounting points and the hell hole (area below the factor battery location). Repairs are easier to handle with no engine/transaxle installed.
Of course you may as well replace the fuel lines in the tunnel if they are still plastic and upgrade to the stainless steel from Tangerine Racing or others. Pull the fuel tank and have that boiled out and perhaps coated and replace the remaining rubber fuel lines. Clean all of the body grounds on the car. Then rebuild the brakes calipers, replace the flexible lines and flush the entire system. That should keep you bust for a bit.
These cars are a blast to drive but we always want to make sure the car itself is safe to dive as they are now 50 years old.
Sandblasted the J pipe:
Made some seatbelt bungs on the lathe at work:
Got the inner long in good order. I used silver POR15 in the inner wheel house:
Looks like a lot of work Glad you have some some help.
Looking forward to the progress!
Welcome! Good start, will be watching with interest.
Rolling Rock and Irish green. Good Choice!
Another little update. Trying to tackle the front section of the long, before the door. Tricky little spot. Soft area in the wheel well. I ground this away to reveal a nice 3" hole.
Making a template with a Coors Banquet box. Good for more than a cool buzz.
Cut and bent
Welded and smoothed with a shot of primer.
Reasonable fit, will need some tweaking and 20 more minutes of grinding welds.
Looking down the long. I think I can do a little better than that, so I will make some adjustments to get it a little closer along these red sketches...
I wish I had the AMADA brakes I use at work to bend these parts.
Quickie test fit of the outer clamshell. I wanted to check how far off I am with the lower part of my fabbed long... Close! but more tweaking.
This is a motivating sight!
Recreating this rear piece. I used my rusty cut out as a template.
This will be dual layer 16g nice and beefy.
I will not be recreating the jack pyramid area. I have purchased Brad's 914LTD stiffening kit - which deletes the factory pyramid. (not my photo, but this kit:)
I know it might be unnecessary for - not a racecar - but with the rust this car has... it cant hurt to stiffen the car up and keep it solid.
I am blind and missed a chunk on the bottom. Its ok to make things twice sometimes to get it right.
Just a nice photo before I pulled the car in:
Great skills and work levels
Here's a list of some of the other things I have accomplished and compiled over the last few months.
Installed ignition switch (early solder in style) and Ign key.
Got some new interior bits from a nice guy about an hour away for a great price:
Also a new left tail light, and a much needed rear bumper I found on craigslist in PA for $100:
My factory bumper was taco'd and dimpled:
The 914 also had what i would call the WORST dash I have ever seen. Looked like it sat on a grille at a BBQ joint for half a year - found a new one on the forums here for $200:
Shot of my work space. Not much but fits a 914.
Not related to fixing the car... but part of the bigger picture.
Sometimes you need to buy yourself somethin nice!
Picked up a set of 14" Fuchs for a great deal, due to the ugly finish. Two '69 dates and two '70 dates. Lets see if I can clean em up.
Sprayed some Jascos. 15 minutes of sitting.
I would say that the spray bomb job preserved this original finish. Good drivers quality. Really feel like I lucked out here. I'll do the other 3 this evening.... then back to welding!
Jared, you have mad skills. My hat is off to you and I wish I had the eye you have when I was your age. Heck, I'd like to have that eye right now. Good work and keep it up.
Wow... nice job so far. Keep it up!!!
Something else I completed.
The frunk handle was not very functional, as you'd imagine with a hole like this.
I hammer formed this out of 22g. Weird place to weld, especially from the inside.
The sheath (?) for the pull handle had stubs of the bolts rusted to it.
Ground off. Got one bolt stub out with vicegrips. The other was stuck, so I welded a nut to it and she turned right out.
Sand blasted, chased the threads and painted at work. Added new hardware.
Need to do the same for the handle
I'm happy with the result, everything works now. Could be prettier, but its very hidden and will (hopefully) be covered in paint someday.
Nice job on the handle patch I think that was probably the hardest patch I had to do on my whole car. Like you said, not an easy place to weld... And I did mine while my floor was off which eased the pain at least a little.
Hey Jared, I'm not up in NOVA. I hang my hat in Williamsburg, a short drive from Va Beach and Norfolk. Being in Baltimore, you should make you way to Hershey. Should it occur...…...
Thats very nice work, great speed, will watch this with interest!
Keep up the good work--and the optimism. That's the best way to deal with the endless 914 rust surprises.
Actually very common. Dirt, debris, mouse nests, etc. collect in the metal recess above the pull and holds in the moisture that seeps into the cowl.
I like how you lit up your garage.
Nice work—great to see someone in their 20s working on one of these (said as someone who is still working on one 30 years later...after starting in his teens... ).
Those Fuchs were a great score—there's something about Fuchs without black backgrounds that works. They'd look great on your car, or you can generate additional project funds if you choose to resell that set as-is or properly repainted—as a 914-6 or 911E owner might want correct 14s. Meanwhile, 15x6s or 16x6s are where the good tires are at. What rear tire size are you on? They look beefy...
Hope everyone is doing OK with this Covid virus going around.
Here are a few updates from the past couple days. Firewall and the all mighty Hell Hole! I have been dreading this. You guys have conditioned me to hate it! Maybe it wont be so bad....
Upper firewall rust is cut out.
Needs some more grinding. Right side looks decent.
Cleaned and primed. Nice.
This piece will serve as the wall and base to weld the lower Hell Hole patches in place.
This is what I was working with.... Yikes. Lets cut some more away.
Engine shelf removed. What was left of it anyways.
"Lets form some new metal." - Probably Bob Ross
This is all 16 gauge. I bent the large shapes over my thigh, tack welded a few spots and hammer formed to get the fit better.
Grind for 1 hour. Prep with Metal Ready. This is how it looks after:
Self etch primer, and some filler primer on top. This is the result:
I got a little "trigger happy" and sprayed some primer over all the fresh metal, not thinking that I still need to weld (and purchase) the engine shelf.
Regardless.... There have been prettier repairs, but its a good deal better than no metal there at all!
There is still a hole and thin area that needs patched (lower right of the last photo)
Question: Would you guys recommend a skim layer of body filler to smooth the gaps out on the hell hole? I have never used the stuff before, but I'd like to finish with a nice repair.
Overall the hell hole wasn't the worst thing ever. Would not look forward to doing it again though. I have about 6 hours straight into the repair. What a pain in the butt it is getting in and out of there. 28 is too young for my knees to feel like this.
Thanks for reading!
Wow, I just noticed this thread. You're doing great work, and your fabrication skills are excellent. I found that to be a HUGE asset (or in my case mostly, a liability) in terms of repair. Great welding can't makeup for crappy fab skills. The 16 ga will hold up nicely.
I suppose you could body filler on the hell hole there if you want it to look nicer, or, if later, you don't want it too obvious that it was repaired. But I don't think there's any "dishonor" in that repair, and in fact it is evidence of all the good work you did/are doing. OTOH, you're most interested in driving this thing
I spent last 25 years (or so) in NoVA, but just relocated mostly to Easton in the last year. My daughter went to VCU (probably a year or two behind you), and my wife is from Stoneleigh. The neighborhood and garage pics remind me a bit of her old house. (EDIT: Forgot to add that her dad let me store an old MGB in their garage that was similar, but smaller. I did an engine rebuild and some other work on it out of that garage while stationed at Aberdeen. Brings back memories.)
Lastly, I've got an Irish Green '72 (that became something like guards red at some point) and a '75 that I'm stalled on. It was in similar shape to yours, and I made a lot of progress and then hit a wall for a while. Last week with help I managed to get it to Easton, so maybe I can again!
Good luck -- maybe we can catch up at some point.
Instead of body filler, I would spend a little more time with the grinder to smooth out the rough spots.
Nice work! It isn't a bad idea to put a skim of fiber reinforced filler over the welds anyway just to make sure all pinholes are filled and eliminate depressions that could trap moisture. @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9892 pointed me to https://www.amazon.com/Fibreglass-Evercoat-633-Reinforced-Compound/dp/B000P70VGQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=evercoat+fibertech&qid=1584751223&sr=8-1 and I really liked it.
Just to be clear. I agree with Rob there is no shame at all in the repair you have done. When you go back to grinding, just make sure you are grinding only the weld and not the surrounding parent material. You can grind just about any weld to invisibly smooth if you don't mind thinning the metal to become foil. Obviously not good. Better to live with a bit of weld shrinkage and have it strong than pretty and weak. Finding that balance was one of the trickier parts for me.
Posted and forgot to add the work I accomplished today.
I fit these two panels today. I had to modify them a hair, but over all they fit nice.
I traced these shapes off of the pieces I cut out. Pretty cut and dry - or... weld.
In progress. Ignore the bacon welds.
A lot of the same sounds echoing from the garage this week... I'm glad I bought ear muffs.
Mimicked the spot welds on the bottom. Light coat of SE primer.
I will need to fill in another spot or two, and figure out the transition to the outer clamshell.
I have to say I am really proud of how this looks... If you scroll back to the first photos, there was not a lot of meat here!
Factory shape looks pretty close. As a reminder, I am not using the factory jack pyramid (I will be using Brads Meyer's stiffening kit) so this section was left flat.
Dual wall 16g, pain in the D to form.
DANG! Nice. Fits up pretty well with the outer clamshell. took a mallet hit or two.
I drilled these holes for the spot welds last night, made a few trims - But it sandwiches nicely in between the dual wall.
Lastly. The girl and I started taping off my Fuchs - for the semi gloss windows. Just like the car... time consuming but worth it for the outcome.
P.S. Here is my cat, Oatmeal, in case anyone needed to see this today.
Decided to go at the hole on the Lower front PS fender. This will be my first time ever using body filler. I have nothing but time on my hands today. So I am ready to sand. Nice little spot to try this out.
Here's the play by play....Cut out:
Trace the shape of the piece you need. This time I used a Yuengling box for a template. The cardboard you use all depends on your beer preference that day.
Looks good to me.
Weld, grind, "smooth".
Then you realize you still have the negative stripe vinyl beneath that tape. Grind that off, rather unevenly. Apply another skim of body filler.
Sand for like 40 minutes.
Voila! I am pretty proud of this! Not horrible for a first time at "body work". Certainly time consuming...
I see a couple dings left. Honestly, I think that's an OK thing - or this fender might stand out like a sore thumb, as compared to the rest of the car. As of right now I am not going for a perfect resto. This will be as original paint as possible.
Gives me a bit of hope for down the road when I take it a step further, with a respray and such.
I spot welded the outer clamshell in place. This feels great and is so satisfying to see. Weld one, move a foot over, weld another, let cool, repeat.
Still have a bit of grinding and smoothing to do. A theme for this project...
Now for the big test. Does this door still fit?
Door gap looks pretty damn good and she closes like a German bank vault! Lots accomplished in the last few days, and a lot of stuff checked off the whitebaord list.
Door jamb, and body section.
Battery box, etc.
Not really in a particular order.
Thanks for reading and wash your hands.
Pure inspiration!!! I love watching this... and look at those gaps.
Great work! And loving Oatmeal!!
Sunday project. My girlfriend and I spent the morning finishing up taping off my fuchs wheels for restoration. Took a while!
Scuff, Prime 2 coats, Semi Gloss black 3 coats, Matte clear over top.
1 bolt holding it on for the photo (still 4 lug) Just had to see.
I am so happy about these.
They are going to look great on here one day. Not a bad tidy up for a $700 set of fuchs!
Those Fuchs look great. What did you do to the petals? Just matte clear?
Great work Jared! Love watching your car progress and glad to see that spare metal sitting in the garage being put to good use.
You are doing a nice job and that 914 is going to be on the road soon enough.
I'm ready to weld the sill back in - so I need to get that lower jamb and body section figured out.
I sandblasted my cut-out section, found a ton of rust, body filler (like .25") rivets, and old brazing. Really just a bad repair at some point in the cars life.
Best to just replace the whole section, right?
I made a few threads and posts in that last month+ asking if anyone has a car they are cutting up, but no luck.
I will try and make my own, before I drop $90-$120 on a jamb section.
I got started on this today. Here's the old section that I do not want to reuse.
Rear. Its like 5 pieces stuck together.
I will try to make my own, and see how it turns out. Cave man scribbles...
Pain in the butt to bend with my little HF Brake.
On the right track in a bit under an hour. Jamb will be a different story.
Definitely close! With some tweaking, I think this could be a good part.
Got the passenger side floor out.
Received this beautiful part from Auto Atlanta.
Had a celebratory brew on the defeated carcass of a floor.
And a final pic, because the light was nice.
Also serves as a summary of some of this weeks accomplishments, so far.
Nice progress. And that jamb section could have a place in the 914 PO botched repair hall of fame.
Of all the horrors I witnessed on my car, I don't think any were as nasty as that jamb. It's one thing when Mother Nature Fs up the car, but... Are you sure that's even filler? Looks like somebody poured concrete. You patch is pure artistry. That took guts to even attempt.
Edit: Seriously thanks for the kind words guys, it gives me a ton of motivation.
Hey guys, decided to try and tackle this lower jamb.
WORK IN PROGRESS. Man this is a tough piece. Check out the pics for where I am at so far.
I achieved the rolled shape by clamping my new piece to the original lower jamb, pressing with my thumbs, clamp again closer, press, then hammer form.
Outer flange is one piece, and the rolled flat is another.
Fit is close... getting there.
Cleaned up and sandblasted a little more. Now I can see where else I need to spot weld to finish filling this piece in.
Shape is there, its a clean fit and the door closes nicely over it.
3 hours into this pieces so far. Still cheaper than buying the whole jamb for $129. Depending on what I value my hourly work at... minimum wage?
I have not figured out how to blend those tabs at the end into the sill, I will check out a few more photos of others cars.
Little more welding, shaping, drill the spot weld holes... I might be in business. At least its a more honest shot at a repair than what was on there.
A lot of patience and talent. I wish I had nerve to try this when i was your age. This has turned out to be and inspirational thread. Keep up the good work!! I'm sure many of us are following your progress.
thanks for keeping us updated on your project, its great to follow along and see you tackle this extensive of a repair. A car like that would have been scrapped up until a few years ago, by most anyway, I know there are some hear that have rescued some this bad or worse that probably were not "worth it" at the time. AND there are fewer it seems your age willing to develop the skill set to do it. I know my son would not, but my daughter and son-in-law to be want to start one too, so I know there is hope!! anyway just wanted to give you props for saving it. you will enjoy the fruit of your labor soon! I think you could have a future in this if you wanted to, these cars and the other Porsche's are now worth what you put into it so I am sure you can gain back more that just that "minimum wage" you were joking about!!
Really enjoying seeing your progress on this project.
Great thread! Keep up the great work!!
Lets finish up this passenger side!
Weld on sill and finish lower jamb. What will that take 30 mins?
.... 6 hours later....
I ran into a fork in the road here.
As I ground away the paint to weld in the new body section,
I found about 3/16" of body filler. This goes all the way up to the door handle, following the shoddy jamb repair from earlier. What to do?
Since I do not plan on painting the car right now, (or dig this much deeper!)
I decided to place the remade body panel in, smooth what I can, and use filler for the rest. Not what I was expecting to see or do... Down the road, I would like to replace the entire passenger rear, sail, fender, etc. So I will clean it up and move on until that day.
Sorry to let down any folks, I know this is not doing it "right" and just hiding the inevitable.
Here's the filler.... Lets carry on.
Life goes on, lets weld it up.
Sand a ton, smooth, sand, prime. Still need to sand.
2 hours later:
Little bit to sand left, just eager to make another post. I feel really great about these steps. Passenger side is effectively... DONE!
Serious progress for 5 weeks! I am excited to open the garage door tomorrow and see it with fresh light.
-Weld in battery tray/support and engine shelf.
-remove drivers floor.
-rebuild flanges around drivers firewall and long.
A champion! Loving this thread - better than a Motor Trend TV episode, with no commercials, too!
You are a better (tougher) man than me, getting all that done without a rotisserie. I have certainly gotten worn out at times on my project, but the option to turn the car sideways and upside-down has eliminated most of the grief.
And I feel your pain from the bondo surprise. I had a couple of those, and a few choice words.
You're rocking and rolling! I think it took me like 2 weeks to get the floor pan off with all those spot welds...and I had it on a rotisserie!
Don't beat yourself up about doing it "right" as Brent says. When perfect becomes the enemy of good these projects can get stalled (ask me how I know), or worse, and it sounds like you actually want to be driving this year
Glad your pedal cluster area was in good shape. Below is a pic of mine. It was one of the ugliest "repairs" on my project car, and it took a long time to fab up something to go there. Not sure where you learned to fab and weld, but you've got a talent for it.
Keep going, Jared!
Add me to those amazed at your ability to tackle the floor without a rotisserie. When you get that center section out, take a little time to check and reinforce the attachments for the clutch cable tube. It's just a minor little task when the tunnel is open, but a major PITA if it breaks after the tunnel is closed back up.
Took Monday night off to hang out and not do any work.
Small update last night:
Got the center floor out - oh how i hate laying on my back under this!
Got her out in one piece, rust, acorns and leaf collection in tact.
I believe this is the commonly broken, brazed area, looks to be in good shape, any confirmaiton?
Fuel lines are totally nasty... Must have been sitting for a long time with gas.
I am very glad I bought these from Pelican parts! Should be an easy install now.
Lastly, I took a few measurements of the pieces I will need to rebuild the inner long radius and lower firewall.
I took a sheet of 18g to work, sheared and bent up some pieces to make my life juuuust a little bit easier at home.
So I'll rebuild this section, I might lap weld the firewall, maybe put a coating of POR15 between the two firewall sections, install the fuel lines,
line the floor up and start getting it attached.
Exciting stuff. Glad to have a creeper.
Man, you're a handy guy to have around.
Here is today's diary entry.
Spent the last two afternoons in the garage rebuilding the firewall flanges.
I lap welded the fire walls and butt welded the driver's long.
Here are some photos. Ran out of 1/2" sanding belts, so all of the corners of the inner firewall still need sanded. Ignore these for now.
Ugly, but honest.
Ahh. This long is a pain in my ass. This metal is so easy to burn through. I'm mostly done, still have a few spots to fill in. I should have extended these, top and bottom to make it a lap weld.
It will be covered with carpet anyways right? I hate to make excuses, but that's the fact of the matter. Cant beat myself up over stuff I am still learning/perfecting.
As recommended from my internet friends above, I made a little bracket and tacked the clutch tube in place. Hopefully this will help disperse the load, and neither of these will break. I brought the heat down a lot on this, does not seem like a good tube to blow a hole into!
I found this stuck under the dash carpet. I assume this is the shift knob badge.
Also a metaphor for the condition of this vehicle.
A photo I grabbed. Cluttered, tired but a bit hopeful.
Certainly leaving the garage today frustrated. Welding on your back SUCKS. It is so easy to blow through your new metal, but you cant really tell you are.... because you neck is getting covered in sparks and glowing slugs.
If anyone reading this is on the fence... build the rotisserie!
All that being said - another good few hours out there and the floors should be ready to go in.
Thanks for reading!
Spent about 12 hours outside Friday to Sunday, finished up the passenger long. Frustrating few days. But good progress none the less.
Test fitting my passenger floor... Couple issues. I realized the rear, inner firewall is not flat across the flange, it has a 7/8" step down to the floor spot welds. Had to cut and adjust that.
The woes of making your own parts, with nothing to compare it to (rusted away!) Should have fit the floor first!
Another issue I am working out is the connection of the floor with the horizontal spot welds near the front fender. There's not a lot of meat left, so I will need to make a new strip (on the inner fender)
Here's the fit. Definitely a nice sight, we've come a long way.
Patched the lower front, inner fender. This is only really welded along the top, in case I need to make adjustments to accommodate the floor flange.
Which you can kind of see in this photo:
Gotta keep going! Might take a night off so I don't get burned out.
As another member said, gotta keep fighting the good fight.
Congrats on that milestone. I had my door on for a few days last week and it felt like progress.
More prep and a few questions!
Installing my stainless fuel lines. A breeze with the floor off! I feel bad for anyone that's done it otherwise.
-Is this an acceptable lay out? Would you raise them over the wiring harness?
-2 cables ties to keep them tight together, I dont want them flopping around, other wise fine to just chill there?
-the larger 9mm one stays on the passenger side, and comes out the lower passenger side slot in the engine bay?
Looks right for my gas tank outlets.
-What is this empty mount on top of my control arm?
Where I've spent most of my time the last 6 days, on my back!
Long looks nice, hit it with some weld thru right after this.
Drilling the spot weld holes. 70 something holes in the pan and 40
in the fire wall/ tunnel. I hit some zinc primer on the inside of the floor tunnel.
Didn't want to leave it raw.
Basically the final fit, I'll start spot welding tonight.
My checklist has not gotten much bigger these days.
I have a pretty good idea of what needs accomplished - though,
I have left a few blank spots for any surprises....might, need more than 2.
As always, many thanks for reading and the support!
Nice Jared. I like how you have the body dimension sheet taped up to your whiteboard. Good reference and reminder!
SS fuel lines: I think your layout is fine. Probably better under the wiring harness, as it's more likely you'll need access to the wiring harness than the fuel lines after you seal everything back up. Someone with better memory can comment on orientation of the lines in terms of which side.
The cable tie is nice touch, but mine have never flopped around without it. Actually installing them, even with floor and engine in, wasn't nearly as hard as it might seem, although having a helper/spotter (my son, in my case) is definitely helpful. Not in my "Top 25 PITA" tasks on my teener.
That empty bracket on your control arm is a mount for the optional sway bar. I can't recall exactly, but I don't think early cars came with the front sway bar. It's a great addition for handling, though.
Finished up the passenger floor today.
Added the Jack triangle, fits with a couple swings of my Universal Adjustment Tool.
She's sturdy. (I wont be jumping though. No cross bar yet)
Working on this front section patch. Maybe a bit more smoothing... and I need to finagle the triangle that goes up at the end.
I ordered the crossmember and seat mounts from Stoddard.
So next up on the list for this area.
-Finish up driver side floor flanges and clean everything up.
-Install D.S. floor.
-Install handbrake and accessories.
-Crossmember and Seat mounts.
-Seam seal everything.
-Paint the floor with something.
-Undercoat the bottom.
-Dyna Mat or similar.
Us old guys call what you're doing "kicking ass and taking names".
Great progress. At this rate, you'll have it back on the road in no time.
Chris- Are you sure you were never a LEO? That was a very common expression back in the day.
Something to look at on your lunch breaks (or just blatantly at work - if you are like me)
Got some goodies in from Stoddard! Last of what I need for the floor.
Cross member halves
4x seat weld brackets
And compared to what I had in there... Yikes.
So the throttle cable was left connected when I pulled the motor. Amateur move Jared... So, I needed a new one.
This is 10,000 times easier with the floor still not completely sealed. Easy access.
Arrived at the right time too, finished up the prep for the floor mounting points.
Drilled some spot welds for the drivers side.
Started tacking this bad mother in.
Ran out of argon after about 15 of 120 or so spots. Light at the end of the tunnel.
Until next time,
Go get the argon tank filled so we can continue to watch the progress.
This is coming along very nicely. Great work!
Got a 1973 1.7 L by the side of the house just waiting to be worked on. I find your build inspiring and I wish I will be half as good as you are when I get to it. My 914 is typical: shot rear floors and bottom firewall, rust coming out from under the paint on doors, hood and rockers and to add an additionnal degree of difficulty, it was lightly rear ended on the drivers side. And this is what I see... And to think that this is just the tip of the iceberg as I've learned from reading many build threads that there is way more under than what you can see. Oh, and I forgot to mention that the engine has a MAJOR exhaust leak and that I found out that there were many exhaust manifold studs either missing or just plain holding by some miracle ( I m sure they are pulled from the head, but let me dream a little, please!!!) I know, you must be asking yourself why I even bothered; well, this is what I call a bucket list affair and no one but myself will stop me from getting it back on the road. I love bringing stuff back from the depths, it is so rewarding. I just hope I will have the "stamina" to get it finished.
Anyways, very good work on your 914.
95% finished the floor up.
All the spot welds are done, just need to butt weld the front seam, prime, seam seal and under coat. This weekend.
Never thought I'd have a 914 with floors.
ALMOST done laying on my damn back!
Reused the drivers Jack triangle. Its rugged, but sturdy, did not get a pic yet, but you can see I have it welded up in this photo.
Holds up my 160lb butt - before the support is welded up... So I would say we are good.
A far cry from this:
Next on the list:
-Reattach hand brake, and build an E-brake cable guide.
-Butt weld floor near pedal
-Weld in seat mounts
Feeling pretty good.
Edit: Dang 50 posts! Lost my "914 Newbie" status
Man, all that new steel looks GOOD!
Great job. After an hour or so of reading tonight I am beginning to believe that the rust was installed at the Karmann factory......
Good looking floors, Suzanne must be proud.
Wow. First time checking out this build thread......great fab skills, a great build thread, and fast too. Very nice work!
Floors are "100%" Here's some photos.
Correct side, thanks to you guys.
Ground seam sealed and primed. Wow, it looks nice when things are one color.
Same order of business for the underside. Sealed every seam I could find.
If you have a keen eye, you'll notice in the background that I wrapped up my Fuchs. I used 185/65. Nice and puffy. Not too big.
Some might be upset that I bought Ohtsus and not R888s but hey, its just a 1700cc. ha. I had them on my '93 Corrado in 16" and was totally happy with them.
Tomorrow, I'll weld in the seat mounts and E-brake accoutrements.
I've decided to use a roll on tar-like sound deadening that I found in another thread. So I will do the firewall and probably floor pans up with that.
Another choice I made this weekend was to nix the backpad and go with the perlon carpet fire wall. I think it looks nice, opens things up, and suits my style.
I have an early and late style backrest, both are not in great shape. Obviously, I am not a perfectionist or a purist. So I don't too much care about keeping this car "as it came"
I do a little (a lot) sewing work on the side, so I think it will be a fun project. I've seen enough photos in other threads to be convinced that I like the carpeted wall.
Thanks for reading!
Wow. Great work!
Keep the updates coming.
Ok, weekend fun. Large amount of small updates...
Cleaned up the seatmounts in preparation of install. Wire brush, paint and prime.
As Bkrantz recommended above. I clamped the U Height adjuster bracket, lined the seat bracket up, bolt the hinges to the base and tac it all together. Worked great and took mere minutes.
Being a '71 I only had a drivers side U bracket and height adjust teeth. I am going to run later style, single seats.
I made the U brackets out of 16g and a hammer... I found the teeth online.... eh... lets make it ourselves at work.
Drew this up on solidworks. Took the better part of an hour.
Measurements taken entirely off the old piece. Cut on a laser, .25" A36 Steel. Tapped to M8.
Stock teeth is 5/16" wide. So my new piece is a bit narrower, but I don't think .060 will make a difference in the seat mounting/adjustment.
Old and New. Pretty happy with it.
Worked on a quickie fix for the hand brake bulb. Bottom half rusted away.
Remade the cable guide cover.
Back to the hand brake. Sanded and painted. This is a finicky piece! Bare with me....
Apparently '70 and '71 have a cool 2 piece folding handle design, so you dont catch your thigh on the lever. Cool piece but annoying. I found out I was missing a spring piece that releases the tooth.
I did some research and learned its a common break. I found the replacement rod + spring for $40. I'll try and fix it first.
Here is the fix I cooked up. Bent piece of 16g welded to the end. It seems to work on the vise.... This might be one of those situations where I upgrade to the late style in the near future....
(hint... anyone have an extra laying around?)
Thanks for reading.
Seat adjuster turned out very nicely.
Handbrake welded and cable attached, cable cover welded, sealer applied, primed...
Now laying some paint down in the floors today. Looks nice, so far.
And paint on the floor is done. Looking nice and smooth.
Here's a quick throw back from a few weeks ago:
Second lease on life for this floor pan!
Next on the list (that are big enough to be their own posts):
-914LTD outer reinforcement kit
-Butyl and Carpet
-Battery tray and paint
-Delete side markers and antenna.
-5 Lug Swap kit (when it arrives)
Looking great! You are getting ahead of me now.
Not a ton to update. Driving down to VA in the morning to pick up some drivers quality seats and a few other pieces, for pennies on the dollar. The seats I have are gnarly and crispy.
Here are a few updates on the car...
Started the passenger 914LTD outer Stiffening Kit. Fits great.
Passenger side requires a bit of rust repair before I install that side.
Metal ready, shape replacement, weld and grind.
Start forming the replacement jamb section. All of these parts are 16g.
Little more sanding and filler primer and we should be smooth.
I'm grateful this side of the car has a lot less rust... an afternoon of work vs. 3 weeks.
I hope every one has a nice weekend.
Nice work indeed... Good progress!
Picked up some seats this morning. Pretty unassuming corduroy. Will clean up well. Nice bolsters, will get me by for now....
Upon further inspection... seller said they may have been a recover...
Later in the car, the girlfriend started peeling the cord back.
What's this!!! Lets peel some more.
Beautiful brand new tartan plaid beneath!
I assume this was a dealer cover up? Maybe they couldn't sell the audacious plaid in '76? Or someone wanted 'this' car with 'that' interior.
Regardless, I am really happy to have come across these for $50 from another world member. I love tartan - its a saved ebay search of mine - so this made my weekend.
I will peel back the rest tomorrow with my seam ripper and see what is beneath.
Today's update: On ALL Fours!
Seam sealer and undercoating applied. I used 3m Professional rubber coat. 2 coats. I said this was a budget build right? We will see how it holds up.
That only means one thing - Floor and frame are effectively done.
Lets get it off the jackstands and let her breathe for the first time since winter. All that work and it still looks like this.
Majority of 2 months work in one shot here:
Underneath - the money shot. Literally.
Also deleted the antenna hole.
Quick and dirty save. There's a lot more work to do. I'll stop being ecstatic, pull her back in and get to it! .... After we sweep up...
(Still trying to keep my original goal of road ready by Luft 7 - May 29th)
Ah! The old A-hole delete. Be careful with that. Things can back up on you.
Congrats on reaching that milestone!
I've really enjoyed following your build...great work!
Many thanks to all your advice and motivation. Lots left to do! The hardest part is over. I think..
Now that its on the ground I found it to be a little closed on top of the passenger door, and a little open on the drivers. I suppose that's a slight body twist. Attempted to check (and keep) my diagonal measurements several times.
Maybe to be expected with the technique I used... jackstands and no jig!
Regardless, the doors close awesome with a person sitting in the cab. No catching and a solid THUD So I am happy.
Driver: (note wider gap near handle)
Passenger: (note smaller gap near handle)
Worth noting that I have not adjusted either door yet. But the passenger side has always looked a little tight on top with a nice even gap going down.
I suspect this might have something to do with the amount of bondo around the door handle that we discovered a few weeks ago.
The prettier side of the car... Warts are being deleted. I cannot stand to look at them.
And just for fun... somewhere down the line.
Back to work.
Jared, I've got a similar situation with door gaps on my project car. Drivers side measurement between windshield flange and rollbar is perfect, but door gaps are a bit off, both front and back. Meanwhile passenger side measurement is slightly too big (~ 1/8 inch) but gaps look perfect.
My working theory now is that it has to do with the upper hinge point on the driver's side. I think the metal at the top hinge is weak, and years of people putting their weight on the door tend to make it sag. Inspect that area and see if the metal looks stretched at all. I had a similar situation on my driver. A few years ago I was working on installing triangle door seals, and I think I put too much downward pressure on the door and stretched the metal there. After carefully tapping (or whacking ) on that section the door lined up much better. I may try same thing on the project.
On different topic, at some point I'd like to get more thoughts from you on those long reinforcements. I'm considering those once I seal my driver's side long up, but I wanted to get more thoughts about fitment, weight, etc. It adds a ton of structural rigidity, but they are not light.
Nice work. Cant wait to do an antenna/wart delete.
Trailing edge door gaps wider at top than bottom is pretty common. When I was working on gaps, I started paying close attention to any pics of doors posted on the forums and noticed even low mileage survivors often show it.
+1 on Rob's comment on the top hinge metal stretching. I had a severe case of it on one side and mild on the other but was able to gain gap at the top rear by adjusting the hinge area with a hammer. I think many of us get in a bad habit of using the doors as grab handles to lever our fat asses out of those low seats.
Truthfully Brent helped me out on this one. I PM'ed him after seeing his thread fighting the door gaps and was like "Really? That's a solution?" Anyway, it was good advice he gave me. Use your hand to see if you can feel a ripple in the metal or can otherwise see where or if it was stretched.
Happy Thursday (thirsty Thursday?)
Here's a question, whats the name of this windshield insert to targa seal?
Mine is totally chewed up. Cant seem to find a replacement. Any of you guys have a spare laying around in decent shape I could purchase?
The girlfriend and I laid the Noico rubber down yesterday. I think I found this stuff from an old comment made by... @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=17068 ? I can say that just sitting as is, no interior installed, there is already a good deal less resonance when shutting the doors.
I paid $65 or something for the 80mil small car kit, and have 4 or so full sheets left over.
Carpet arrives next week. I ordered the Gray Perlon kit from AppBiz. I've read good stuff about their kits.
As for the rest of the interior....
Here are the door panels I have.... I don't want to break the bank essentially paying $400.00 shipped for a nice pair. So how can we take care of this on the low?
Maybe I can remake these myself.
Harbor Freight measuring tools
Drawn up in solidworks. I left out all the extra holes... arm rest etc. Maybe go with a simple GT style.
My original plan was to reuse the original smooth fabric, its in OK shape but.... Why?
I'll just recover the new skins, new foam, etc. and get it fresh.
I dont like the early smooth vinyl anyways. I ordered some interesting, kinda factory (maybe not widely liked) material to cover these up. We'll see how it turns out this weekend.
I used Noico too and like it. You should probably go over yours some more with a roller. Tight bonding to the metal is important to get best sound deadening and the instructions say to roll it until the diamonds embossed in the foil are flattened out. That's when you know it has been pressed down tight enough.
You are making great progress!!!
Oh, and 914Rubber has that seal. Can't remember the exact name but you can find it in their parts diagrams.
I used the black Noico and did the WHOLE firewall area. I think it took me about an hour and it transformed the driving experience.
Happy May - I cant believe we are already here.
I've been putting off the lower windshield rust. Part of me wanted me to like... seal it up and worry about it next round of restoration (paint and fenders?) Something scary about pulling a windshield.
I think the right time to do these repairs is now. Otherwise I'll keep staring at it.
Guess that means pull the windshield... Actually came out really simply. WD40 and wire had it out solo in 45 minutes.
The only casualty when removing was a crusty turn signal. Luckily I received these as a gift! Little too fresh for the car in this state
Perfect time to do everything there. I'll install my dash vinyl, buff the paint seals, etc.
I also made a 914 rubber order amd got all the seals for this area. Another fun thing I ordered is their chrome trim delete. (replaces the chrome with rubber)
So both sides look about like this... Better than I imagined with all that bubbly paint. the middle of the windshield flange is rust free.
Started crafting a replacement this evening. Not complete yet.
Per your recommendations, I needed a better roller for the sound deadner. The plastic guy we had has no weight to it. Couldn't find anything, locally so I made this heavy duty stainless roller at work. Lathe cut roller, bent the bracket and welded at home. The thing weighs damn near 3 pounds.
Has no problem laying the stuff down flat.
Just about finished up with the passenger wind screen rust. heres a play by play
Needs the fix.
Pleased to see just about no rust under there!
Solid hour into this little guy.
Going to be a close fit boys.
Weld and smooth. Repeat
Lay some primer down.
Respectable fix!! A little more sanding and it should look great.
Making this piece myself saves me $130 per side. More money for other parts, or beer so I can cope with the time and money I've sunk into this in 7 weeks.
Also quickie wart delete:
Amateur hour over here, but I'm doing the gosh damn thing and learning a lot.
Back at it tomorrow. Time to sit by the fire and sip on one.
Have a safe Saturday.
Nice work! And welcome to the wart remover club.
Man, I wish I had the tools, and more importantly, the SKILL to fab metal like you can. I've gotten better, but if I have to fab something even remotely complex it takes me WAY longer than what you're doing.
Nice job, Jared.
Happy Friday. I haven't made an update in a few days. Lots of small jobs, waiting for material, etc.
Here's what I'm working on:
After a few sessions of smoothing I got the temporary paint laid down on the windscreen corners. Not a perfect match. But cheap and "OK" for now. As my GF said... just about any green is better than bright grey primer patches. (maybe true... unless it was Ravenna green )
...At least until paint squeezes its way into my budget.
I need to get some wet sanding done, better than the rust holes!
Pretty nice fab on the corners. I am content.
After this, I went around and cut the paint around the windscreen and above the hood. A job easily done with the windscreen out of the car.
This is coming from totally flat, chalky paint (see the first page!) So its nice to see some form of sheen.
I started the carpeted firewall. I ordered the raw material from Pelican parts - $40. Some (a ton of) cutting required.
This is just the sound deadening and 3M 90 (applied to both the SD and Carpet)
I will do a vinyl strip along the top between the carpet and the rear window, to keep it clean.
I adhesed...adhered? the under dash carpets, started longs, etc.
Pretty exciting to see. The vinyl floor pieces are arriving today. So I can finish the carpet after that.
On the list this weekend.
-Install rear window and vinyl beauty strip.
-Install dash top vinyl and dash.
-Install floor vinyl and finish carpet.
-Install seats + mounts.... (am I getting ahead of myself?)
-Design and build my custom door panels....
By-the-way, here is the fabric for my door panels. Maybe liked, maybe not...
Factory VW black vinyl basket weave - An ode to my VW roots (and the Splitty I have tattood on my leg!)
(I also settled on this because 914rubber said "backordered" on their door material Turns out it was in stock the whole time. Oh well.)
Ok fun stuff.
Fitting the door panels I made:
You might note the handle. '73 RSR style. Welded nuts behind the door frame.
Laying the vinyls together. 1/8th" foam backing.
Sewn and adhesed (? Still don't know this word... I will always type it wrong...) adhered.
Gotta say I had thrown a few F bombs around while making these. The vinyl on top gets tacky in about -1 second and sticks in about 1 millisecond. Freakin EYEROLL.
If you try and pull it up to reapply, it destroys the foam underneath.
Better than no panel right? I gotta try and think if I bought the car like this would I be worried right away? Not at all... Just want it to be top tier with all the effort.
Total on materials for the panels is $58.00. Cheaper than any on the classifieds!
Here I have added the tartan seats and installed the rear window.
Carpeted firewall looks damn good!
Still... a lot of things accomplished this weekend. Window, floor vinyl, carpet etc.
Next is dash. 5 Lug swap should be shipping from PMB Performance mid next week!
Criticism is always welcome here. I still plan to redo the top vinyl on the door panels. Some time...
Last couple days I added Dash Top, Lower dash, Windshield seal, Main Targa seal, back glass. A few pain in the butt items! I almost forgot those two pesky dash nuts behind the gauge cluster. I will never understand the idea behind the placement of those!
Dashboard vinyl. Easy project with the windscreen out.
Here's a throw back to last June. The day I bought the car. Ashamed to say I was even "proud" to have it then. I had a vision for what it could be!
Feels fantastic to sit in there and close the door to a nice THUD. Nice and quiet (even without the front glass) I think this is a respectable interior so far!
Even smells like fresh vinyl too.
Thanks for reading.
Nice work...! Looks great!
Amazing progress. You will be driving before you know it.
Fantastic work in record time I think you had the mother of all cracked dashes. Almost artistic in its own way.
I learned those dash nuts under the instrument pod are not a problem at all when installing the dash with the subframe out of the car and on a bench the way the factory probably did. Installing them with the dash in the car is a real f-bomb factory. Nice work!
Wow, that dashtop was a disaster! And now everything looks great!
You removed the center dash vent you had. Did you want to account for that with the top vinyl?
I got some good work accomplished this week. A lot of simple small jobs. Here's the cliff notes.
We pressed the glass in. No breaks! Pretty proud of that.
I used the 914rubber "Rubber Windshield seal" that goes in place of the chrome. I like it more.... less chrome is good for me.
New Main Targa seal as well. Fresh.
Finished my engine shelf, battery tray, paint, etc.
Totally respectable, IMO.
Finished up the driver's side door jamb:
Added the rest of the interior trim and a vinyl strip I made for the rear window to carpet transition:
I replaced all of the shifter bushings.... this was easy.... because there were not any bushings to replace! 3 of 4 were missing!
I was going to say... when I first tried out the gears, I couldn't imagine the tail shift was THAT bad. ha!
Also purchased this great Personal Shift knob from @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=7222 . Love it:
Added sail vinyl on both sides:
Interior as it sits now:
Come a seriously long way!
Thanks for reading.
Give us another photo of your white board!
Nice work! still like those seats you got after removing the corduroy cover. Really match my 74 Bahia Red.
Regarding the engine mount bar, are you keeping that tranny mount instead of the stock bracket type? bdstone or 914rubber has them.
You have the correct mount for early cars.
Looking good. I love those seats against the green!
You have the early mounts. The later cars had the rubber mounts on the engine, and the solid mounts to the outer ends of the bar.
I always thought it made more sense to have the rubber mounts farther apart, but I'm no engineer.
*edit* How long did I take to post this? I must have been working instead of posting! haha
Oooops never seen on my previous 2 early 914 I’ve owned with that mount but probably because bought are converted to side shift. I guess it still work for side shift conversion.
Learned another thing about this 914.
Took a couple days off work, while we are getting some of our main machines repaired. So I might as well work on the car...
Today's update is more of a question to see how F***ked I am.
I bought this 1.7 off a 914 guy up in Philly last year. He said its a really nice runner, no leaks. He said he put the gummy carb on there and kept the duals it had for himself...
So I finally get around to taking the tins off - I was going to clean it up. Get rid of the tacky red on the tins, new belt, plugs, wires, etc.
They were sprayed while on the motor. Over spray all over the place.
This half looks OK... besides the loose spark plug I found. Aftermarket valve cover? So someone has been in here before.
Other half looks like dog crap.
Was jammed full of leaves, feathers and gunk. No way this thing cooled right.
Photo of the valves:
Push rods. I'm assuming there was a leak here:
Opened valve cover:
Motor spins great.
Plugs are clean.
1 impeller fin is cracked.
Has been sitting with oil in the pan and nothing leaks.
What am I looking at here? Is it that gnarly? I have the original motor but, it doesn't turn and has been sitting outside for 20 years with no spark plugs in. So I'm not even letting that be an option.
I am partially in the club of "run it til she pops" But if that's going to be 6 miles in...
Obviously I should do some form of a rebuild? Can I just pull the heads, clean them up, push rod seals and call it a day?
I really don't have a budget for a nice $1700+ motor build right now. Would love to have the tires on the pavement this summer.
I know fast, good and cheap cant go together here.
There are a ton of people more knowledgeable on engines / rebuilds than I am, but here are my thoughts:
1. It's not that bad on the outside. The head on the 3/4 side is a little scuzzy, but not that bad all that things considered, and could be considered typical IMO.
2. That valve/stem is what concerns me most. It's hard to tell how structurally sound that thing is.
3. The rocker assemblies move freely? At least some corrosion on those.
4. Those aren't the pushrods in that pic, unless I'm looking at something different. Those are cylinder studs. The cylinders have probably wept some, but that could also just be random oil / dirt that comes down from the top over time (e.g., spilling oil while filling, etc.).
5. Of the other notes, you're good on the impeller (one cracked fin in and of itself isn't an issue).
6. Painting the tins on the motor...
I think this thing will run for longer than you might think, assuming there aren't other major issues internally. Pulling the heads and resealing the cylinders wouldn't necessarily be bad, but you'll end up in a "while I'm in there" situation. 'As a minimum, change oil cooler seals, change pushrod tube seals, clean up the cylinder fins, and get stock valve covers.
If you start pulling things apart and go down the rabbit hole maybe you can start looking for a cheap set of 96mm p&c to go the 1911 route, which I have heard is pretty fun. Otherwise, it's "split the case" time.
My 1.7L hadn't run for 12 years (or more) when I got it. It had scuzz all over and around it, and once I got it running it ran pretty strong for 2 years before I swapped it for a 2056.
You are doing a great job. Looking at that motor, since it is out of the car already....I say pull it apart and rebuild it. Looking at those valves alone scares me. Sorry, but better to pull it apart before it pulls itself apart.
Awesome thread, thanks for posting! I'm not far from Baltimore, so if you ever need an extra hand (to hold a beer) I wouldn't mind helping.
Hey guys, couple little updates.
Drove to PA today to meet a new friend @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 . Totally stand up guy with some cool cars and parts. I got eyes on the beautiful new mufflers hes taking part in offering to us. Cannot wait to pick one up in a few weeks.
He set me up with a few goodies today:
A tail shift in much nicer shape than mine.
A 150 MPH speedo. I stripped down, cleaned and painted all of these gauges today. Primed and painted the bezel as well.
To be clear, this car will never go above 72mph. But nice to have
This is how she used to look...
Probably need a new multi (gas, etc) gauge down the road. Not as shiny. But it looks great over all.
Front bumper off. Broke 3 of 4 bolts trying to remove it. Welded some BFNs (Big Fu*kin Nuts) in place and got them all unscrewed. If you squint it looks likes a GT car with Cibies..... right?
Last thing, question.... Where the heck do these two red wired eyelets go. If I touch them to power my headlights and fogs function. (woo!)
For the life of me I cannot remember where I took them off, but they are short and go must go right near the fuse block or near the ground on the wall.
Just a little thought about the motor situation I have....
- I have the original motor 1.7 numbers matching. Doesn’t turn, yet.
- I have this Red 1.7 (Pictured above) with the crud on the valves
I’ve been reading into a 1911, it seems pretty straight forward. It looks like you can go mild or big with a build like that. I’d go mild. This is still a budget build. It would be nice get have a peppier, reliable with decent MPGs
-Open up heads to 1.8 size, 105mm
-open up jugs and use 94 or 96mm pistons, maybe the KB P&C kits if I want to be cheap
Replace cam with 9550, overkill... maybe Euromotorworks C grind or 86 grind cam
-I think the other main components stay the same.
-stock crank (66mm) is 1911, 71mm would be for 2056
And a few other bits, let me know if it’s anything major.
Could probably get away with $1500 on the low end, if I shop around for parts.
Do an outer end refresh of the “red” 1.7. Pull the heads, clean everything out, if the inside looks fair, slap it back together, so I have a cruiser motor for the summer. Like Rob and a few of my local friends said “These motors can sit in a lake for 3 years and still fire up in an afternoon.”
In the meantime:
Buy an engine stand,
Strip the original, numbers matching motor
Start getting a solid list, collecting parts
Build original motor to a 1911 in the background
This gives me a way to cruise (so as the red motor is fine) and a background project. Also let’s me suffer with a 1.7 for a bit, which will make me want a bigger motor that much more.
Feels like a diary entry, thanks for reading. Any commentary is welcome. Not trying to beat a dead horse.
Also, I found out those two red wires go to the brown ground block near the speaker. Thanks.
Brown Junction Block,,, not a ground...
Great work, and project. KUDOS to you on the metal/fab work. I'm in ALexandria VA if you need a hand.
Steve, thanks for the response. One thing I noted since connecting - my lights come on and flip up as normal... But can do so even with the key out of the ignition. I don't believe that is normal. So I screwed up something down the line.
I will check continuity, tomorrow.
And thanks @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=16283 ! Not far at all. Spent most of my life in Fairfax.
Small update and more woes...
Got 3 of 4 packages from PMB Performance. Been waiting 5 or 6 weeks for this kit! Eager!
Spent the afternoon tackling my front, replacement struts, balljoints, cleaned and painted some things. Lots of simple Green...
This is going to look really cool. Lowered it a hair.
If you squint, the end goal is taking shape...
I like that low look on 14's.... I do see 15" in my future though.
Unfortunately something happened that made my passenger balljoint not seat correctly and sag down. I guess during the final torque session the BJ slipped out of the half- moon slot.
While trying to solve it, the 17mm BJ retaining bolt broke. 50 year old hardware.....
So now I will have to try and figure that one out. Hopefully I can weld a nut on the threaded section of the broken bolt and pull it out, adjust the joint and throw a new bolt in it. I don't want to have to buy a new spindle.
Hope you folks have a nice Memorial day!
The ball joint should be a C shape, V shape is for late style wedge bolt
Jared - great build you have here! The car is turning out really nice. And those Fuchs: - good job. Looking forward to following this one.
PS - love the wall art in the garage.
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