Parts arrived today for the install on my upgrade battery. Odyssey PC924 and Aluminum mount. Just need the terminal kit.
Will post a few pick of the install to follow....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SR-Battery-Hold-Down-Tray-Battery-Box-Mount-for-PC925-Odyssey-Mounting-Bracket/401770464082?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Streetray 925 mount
-Robert[attachmentid=752415] [attachmentid=752415]
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Like to see this; getting ready to replace the Optima Red Top....
My red top weighs 38 lb, the 925 is near 24 lb
Great Battery 159 bucks 13lbs made my own battery mount using top to old battery mount and aluminum channels. This battery available through summitt racing.
I have a 925 and it does not have enough energy reserves to run lights and wipers at the same time without watching the voltage slowly drop to about 11 volts. Its fine so long as you don't get caught in the rain, but if you do you need to be able to cycle your wipers so the alternator can recharge the bettery.
Zach
Crap I just bought the 680, will that be up to snuff? I thought everything could run independent of a battery solely off the alt.
I run 680 in my airplane. Runs everything no problem and cranks the 360 cubic inch motor like a beast.
925 should be even better
I use an 11 pound Braille battery in my 914.
I also use an 11 pound Braille in my Caterham 7 replica and my boat.
They work great.
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@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=5834 - Can you post a pic of your rennline mount with the 680?
Thanks
Run 925's in my Bugs and the 1200 in my 914-6. Work great.
My odyssey melted when my VR went bad, along with my Hyfire and some other things. I may get another one when I get my car back.
I just pulled the PC925 out of my car and replaced it with a traditional Group 42 lead acid battery.
Couple things that I noticed - the car cranks a little faster.
At idle with lights in wipers running the car sits proudly at ~12.5-13 volts as opposed to the 10.5-11 volts with the 925.
For those wondering about my alternator - I totally went through my electrical system in 2018 when the car stranded me during a drive. New Alternator, alt harness, VR, relay board, cleaned grounds - it was a journey! I can say with some certainty that my charging system is working well.
Here is a thread with information about the LI batteries, draw etc in a 914.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=342693
If you only drive on sunny days, or live in a place like California where you never really need to use your wipers and it does not get very cold, the batteries like the 924, 925 are probably just fine. But my experience is that if you get caught in a prolonged rainstorm, the 925 does not have the AH to keep up. The wipers (at least my wipers) draw a lot of power.
Another issue that I have the you guys may not - especially if you are carbed. I have modern EFI, and it gets funky if voltage drops. With carbs, you could likely run all day at 10.5 volts and be just fine. I have no real experience driving a 914 with stock injection, so have no understanding of how it would behave. But I know when my car was carbed, as long as I had enough power to run the fuel pump and ignition, the car would go just fine.
I'll keep my 925 and swap it in for AX days and stuff like that, but the Group 42 battery (IMHO) makes a better option for varied street driving.
To each their own,
Zach
Even in the 70's an alternator should be able put out enough current to run the engine , lights, and fans at idle. If you are seeing big voltage drops at idle, you have either added some loads the car was not designed for, or you have an alternator problem. A battery should not be discharging when the car is running. Unfortunately the 914 has no headroom for electrical accessories, of course in the late sixties there was not many electrical accessories.
When the car is off and battery fully charged it should be at 12.6 volts. If it is below that either the battery is bad the charging system is not working properly. If the battery is down a few tenths of a volt below 12.6 you have lost a large amount of the current capabilities of the battery. The battery when the car is running should be acting as a buffer. With the car running you should see 13.6 to 14 volts on a test voltmeter, I would not trust the gauge.
According to the service manual the regulator is set to 14 volts. 13.7 to 14.2 is typical for lead acid 12 volt systems.
In cars voltage is usually a symptom in a battery and charging system problem not a cause. The problem most of the time is current related. A clamp on DC amp-meter can take out most of the guesswork.
I've had really good success with the PC680. I disconnect it when the car is sitting which is most of the time, and it holds a charge fine. Per @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=23951 above it's really just for starting the engine, then the alternator is running, and I have basically no accessories/radio/wipers to think about.
The battery mount looks plenty stout. How heavy is it?
I also have a 680, it cranks fast, the H3 pilot fogs run all the time, I've been caught in the rain and driven at night same time, never an issue. I didn't disconnect it from the 914 over the winter, but I did charge every couple months.
Only time it wouldn't start was my brand new 3.0/6 first couple of starts, but have had no problems since the first couple of good runs on break in.
The weight of the mount is not much at all. It is all aluminum and is very strong. It can be lightened and reduced. Gut for the price point its attractive .
The Terminals I used were first the cheep lead once for charging. I did not post them as they looked bad and did not work well. Gut did start and drive while I was waiting for the terminal kit here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QCBM28/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Oddessy thermals SAE for about $24.00 Do not let the sticker shock get you now..This was a Great KIT and JUST WORKED as expected. On less thing to worry about
The weight of the mount is not much at all. It is all aluminum and is very strong. It can be lightened and reduced. But for the price point it's attractive .
The Terminals I used were first the cheep lead ones for charging. I did not post them as they looked bad and did not work well. But did start and drive while It while waiting for the terminal kit here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QCBM28/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Oddessy thermals SAE for about $24.00 Do not let the sticker shock get you now..This was a Great KIT and JUST WORKED as expected. On less thing to worry about.
I have the small odyssey battery, run lights, wipers etc. no problem at all. Car can sit for long periods, battery still cranks the engine over just fine. Regarding the gauge comment about trusting it, I agree, mine reads around 10.5 to 11 with engine running, had mechanic check into it and he said ( I think you changed your voltage regulator unnecessarily, alternator is fine, your battery is fine, your gauge reads low ).
I had the alternator rebuilt while engine was out and replaced the voltage regulator with the more modern one, glad I did both, and yes it was the low readings on the gauge which prompted that.
Ian Stott
Moncton
Canada
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