I have read thru books galore, watched Jake's video, etc..... I do not see anywhere that any sealant is used here. Not gonna use the head gaskets in the kit.
This is my 2nd type 4 engine and I don't remember what I did 7 years ago, much less last week.
So do the heads slide on "DRY"?
Thanks, Clark
No gaskets and dry.
I did find it in Tom Wilson's book. I don't like the way that book jumps from type 1 to type 4. I jump past important stuff. Oh well. Thanks for confirming.
Nowdays we lap the cylinders to the head using valve lapping compound. Testing the seal with Prussian Blue to verify that the seal is perfect.
Put a little compound on the cylinder lip to be used and with a back and forth motion, lap the bugger into the head. Clean everything off afterwards and apply a dap of PR on the lip and rotate it to the head to get a reading when you put if off. The PR should be continuous on the head surface.
Note to anyone using my heads.
Do not lap the jugs into them. We CNC machine our cylinder contact surfaces. They have a near mirror finish and ht's are even within .0001".
Lapping will roughen the surfaces and can only negatively impact the ht's.
If you have doubts about the flatness of your jugs, tape some 600 grit sandpaper to a pane of glass and spin the jug.
For sealant I recommend spraying a nice liberal coat of Permatex Copper Coat on the head's cylinder contact surfaces about 10 minutes before the heads are installed. Don't worry about overspray in the chambers or on the fins. It won't hurt a thing. I do like to mask the spark plug threads.
I have the sealant kit from Type4 store, so I put "whatever" they suggested under the barrels and on the shims.
Now I remember the copper spray from 7 years ago. HAM suggested that then. I still have the can, so I will apply that again.
THanks to all for chiming in.
Perfect!
That's exactly how you do it.
Noted! Can't wait to get to that step on my bumblebee.
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