Well, the last time I drove my 914 was May of last year to the DMV and a week later I lost all gears. I converted my 72 1.7 to a side shift a couple years ago and I've gone through a few shift adjustments especially after replacing all the bushings. The curved shift rod was bent pretty bad from the donor car I originally installed so I took it to Bruce Stone's shop and he got it pretty spot on using his jig. He also replaced my newish coupler bushings because they were beginning to "oval-out" creating a little play around the pin. Still no luck...
I went ahead and purchased Chris's precision shift adjuster but even after installing it and doing the shift alignment tips from these forums still nothing. I know I need to spend more time fiddling with this upgrade after I get everything correctly aligned.
After multiple alignment attempts, I would grind Reverse and 1st but if I pushed far enough I could get 2nd but would have to hold it in place.
So this past weekend, I took apart the shift linkage. By hand, I can fully get into all gears with a solid 'clunk' sound by manually positioning the gear selector at the shift counsel. I fired the car up, and with the rear off the ground *car on jack stands* I can shift the selector into gear and the wheels spin. So this has to be something upstream up to the shifter itself.
The only visual cues I see are that the ball cup on the shift selector is pretty loose inside the connector to the shift rod. The other thing I noticed as I installed the precision adjuster is that my shifter inside the car is not aligned. The top of the shifter is clocked a little towards 7 o'clock.
Any advice with help guys. Been thinking if I should just get the full Tangerine Racing shift rod kit but I want to give this one more shot... heck it's been years already.
If the clutch cable stretches or gets broken in
It needs the slack tightened up or will cause grindage
Espcially in 1st/reverse
Thank you. The previous clutch cable was starting to fray when the problems started so I replaced it with a GEMO cable about 6 months ago. Still haven't put any mileage on it due to the shift issues.
How is the roll pin at the transmission shift selector? Excessive play there from a worn or broken pin will cause excess travel of the linkage resulting in difficulty engaging gears.
Grinding when engaging 1st/reverse is usually bad clutch adjustment or a worn out synchro.
The shift lever is epoxied into the base. By using heat the epoxy can be broken. Then the lever can be re-glued in a new rotation that you prefer.
Are you sure a cone screw isn't loose?
BTDT
Thanks Chris for your feedback. I don't think there's play where the selector connects to the selector rod/fork but I will check again.
I'm most likely going to bring the transmission down and have a good look at the clutch which only has 20 miles on it as well as the release bearing. And might as well take the stack out and do an inspection.
I will report back...
I found a lot of play at the shift selector. Does anyone have the part # for the 'pin' ?
On my Six, when I got it it had the shifter loose so you could spin it around while driving. The epoxy had let go. I yanked it out and had it welded in position.
It actually appears that my shifter has been rewelded. It just seems more apparent after I installed the precision adjuster.
Still looking for the dowel pin part# at the shift selector unless it's NLA.
I actually just read on Pelican thread from owners with the same exact problem on the selector rod connection pin. I'll have to do some inspection but may have to replace the roll pin with a double or triple rolled version.
I appreciate this Chris. Hopefully when I fix and dial this in, I'll pick up the complete linkage from you.
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