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Posted by: Stuckon914 Dec 13 2020, 06:53 PM

I’ve stripped everything off of the car except engine and suspension. I have a few days off so that is next. What is the recommended order. Rear wheels on ramps, Drop engine, Jack stands rear end, drop rear suspension and wheels, free up front suspension as one piece; put front end on Jack stands.
Any tips on order of steps, and Jack stand and hydraulic jack placement appreciated.
Car is braced in frunk, trunk, cabin, and doors with 1inch square tubing.
Lots of rust so some Jack areas not useable.
Thanks

Posted by: mepstein Dec 13 2020, 07:02 PM

I like to throw the wheels under the car as a backup and use an impact wrench to remove all the bolts holding on the suspension.
Remember to detach the steering shaft in the front trunk.

Posted by: Stuckon914 Dec 13 2020, 07:17 PM

Good idea. I hate working under a car at 50, even with multiple jack stands 30 years ago I would work under them with a single Jack holding it up.

Posted by: mepstein Dec 13 2020, 07:22 PM

Last time I did this I also had my hf lift table under the car as backup.

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 13 2020, 08:52 PM

You can drop the front suspension as one big assembly (I did on my project), but it is heavy and awkward--be prepared.

Posted by: Stuckon914 Dec 13 2020, 11:13 PM

Would you do it the same way again?

Posted by: mepstein Dec 14 2020, 07:35 AM

When I part a car, I remove the whole assemble and then work on the individual parts on the ground. Recently, on another 914, I assembled the front suspension and put in the assembly myself. It was pretty easy with a piece of plywood on my transmission jack.

I wouldn't try to hold it with one hand and wrench with the other but if you support it, it's not hard at all. You can take off the brake rotors to make it a bit lighter and then the assembly probably weighs about 75 lbs.

Posted by: BK911 Dec 14 2020, 09:43 AM

Might want to break the ball joints free while still on the car.

Posted by: Stuckon914 Dec 14 2020, 12:33 PM

Where do you support the front end to drop the front suspension? Front tow hook area

Posted by: iankarr Dec 14 2020, 12:41 PM

given that the car may have some structural issues, I'd feel a lot better about using something like a quickjack to lift the car to keep the stresses even / balanced. Also way easier to work on than using jack stands.

As far as order goes, I'd drop the engine, then do the rear suspension, then the front. I actually just made videos on this...including separating the steering joint...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KecED-2H39Q



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFLyAjA_XYM


Hope they help!

Posted by: Stuckon914 Dec 14 2020, 05:10 PM

Thanks, watched them, as you recommended I have two sizes of BFH are ready to go.

Posted by: bkrantz Dec 14 2020, 08:43 PM

Yes, but with another person to help.

Disassembly is much easier off the car.

Posted by: iankarr Dec 14 2020, 11:35 PM

I'm super impressed with my HF Earthquace 20V impact. Pretty sure it would've taken off that stuck axle nut. You may want to arm yourself...

Posted by: Stuckon914 Dec 15 2020, 07:13 PM

Good to know. Spent 3 hours trying to get the wheel spindle nut off. Didn’t want to cut it off just yet. I don’t know why other than it’s personal.which one do you have, the 1/2 inch XT with about 2000 ft-pounds? $280

Posted by: mepstein Dec 15 2020, 07:41 PM

MAPP torch for a couple minutes and then paraffin or an old candle on the threads while its still hot. Repeat as needed but go hot and heavy on the heat. Minutes, not seconds.
Also, with stuck fasteners, it can be helpful to tighten them a smidge and then loosen. Many times, the threads are not corroded on the inside of the stub axle so it's easier to tighten to break the corrosion bond.
Lastly, an impact gun is your friend. My first one was the 1/2" harbor freight corded model for $25. When my better cordless is without a charge, I break it back out and it never fails me. I believe an impact gun is much better and safer at removing frozen fasteners than a breaker bar.