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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Weber Rebuild
Posted by: shane Jan 2 2021, 07:23 PM
Hi, I’m rebuild my Weber 32/36 trying to fix a very rough running issue I’m having. It’s a single 32/36 on my 1.8, I know not a good set up but the PO had it set up that way and I’m not ready to put the FI back on yet. A few things I noticed on the Webber was that both emulsion tubes were F-6 and I had no O rings on the idle jets. I had it running pretty good before but something changed, was wondering if the emulsion tubes are wrong even though it might not be my main issue. Thanks
Posted by: Superhawk996 Jan 3 2021, 10:01 AM
Without getting deep in the weeds. If it was running to your satisfaction before, don't go down the rabbit hole of changing emulsion tube sizing. I can't comment on the sizing - I've only run dual IDF's and DRLA's. You don't mention what your exact problem is so I'd only be guessing. However, emulsion tubes have nothing do do with idle jets. If you have an idle or transition issue, the emulsion tubes aren't even in play at that point. From the images I see online for Weber 36/32 carb, there should be an o-ring under the base of the jet holder (i.e. the brass screw head).
If you're missing those, I'd question who put the carbs together and whether you should just buy a complete rebuild kit and just go through the carbs completely. HOWEVER, if they weren't there in the 1st place, they won't account for whatever change that you're trying to troubleshoot.
When carbs go from running well one day (or one minute) and then start running terribly the next, it's usually debris that has been sucked into the one of the jets.
The other is be absolutely sure you aren't confusing a fuel issue for an ignition issue. Each presents symptoms in exactly the same way. Uneven idle, hesitation, poor transition to the mains or inability to achieve full power and/or full RPM's.
Also don't forget about all the other seals and gaskets associated with the runners, maifold plenum, and the runners to heads. Way to many failure points with that carb / runner setup in my opinion.
My recommendation would be to fully clean the carb 1st and use a rebuilt kit to refresh all gaskets, o-rings, etc., since that is where you currently are focused and working at. If that doesn't return to the same condition your previously had, then refocus your efforts on the ignition.
Posted by: shane Jan 3 2021, 06:42 PM
Without getting deep in the weeds. If it was running to your satisfaction before, don't go down the rabbit hole of changing emulsion tube sizing. I can't comment on the sizing - I've only run dual IDF's and DRLA's. You don't mention what your exact problem is so I'd only be guessing. However, emulsion tubes have nothing do do with idle jets. If you have an idle or transition issue, the emulsion tubes aren't even in play at that point. From the images I see online for Weber 36/32 carb, there should be an o-ring under the base of the jet holder (i.e. the brass screw head).
If you're missing those, I'd question who put the carbs together and whether you should just buy a complete rebuild kit and just go through the carbs completely. HOWEVER, if they weren't there in the 1st place, they won't account for whatever change that you're trying to troubleshoot.
When carbs go from running well one day (or one minute) and then start running terribly the next, it's usually debris that has been sucked into the one of the jets.
The other is be absolutely sure you aren't confusing a fuel issue for an ignition issue. Each presents symptoms in exactly the same way. Uneven idle, hesitation, poor transition to the mains or inability to achieve full power and/or full RPM's.
Also don't forget about all the other seals and gaskets associated with the runners, maifold plenum, and the runners to heads. Way to many failure points with that carb / runner setup in my opinion.
My recommendation would be to fully clean the carb 1st and use a rebuilt kit to refresh all gaskets, o-rings, etc., since that is where you currently are focused and working at. If that doesn't return to the same condition your previously had, then refocus your efforts on the ignition.
I really do appreciate the time and effort you spent misunderstanding and then replying to my post. Will try next time to ask less confusing questions, and I’ll look elsewhere for the emulsion tube sizes. Thanks
Posted by: brian minson Mar 18 2021, 08:29 AM
Agree, clean out the carb first, replace the fuel filter, put in Chevron Super before going all crazy. What distributor are you running?
Here is a little video I did on tuning up my T4.
https://youtu.be/Oz2RWFavT7g
Brian 
Posted by: shane Mar 19 2021, 07:23 AM
Agree, clean out the carb first, replace the fuel filter, put in Chevron Super before going all crazy. What distributor are you running?
Here is a little video I did on tuning up my T4.
https://youtu.be/Oz2RWFavT7g
Brian
Thanks, the PO took the whole fuel injection system off and put it in a box cause he couldn’t get it to idle evenly. So I cleaned and checked out the parts to and am installing it back on the car. Center mount carb on a 914 wasn’t the way to go anyhow I’ve been told.
Posted by: ClayPerrine Mar 19 2021, 07:40 AM
Thanks, the PO took the whole fuel injection system off and put it in a box cause he couldn’t get it to idle evenly. So I cleaned and checked out the parts to and am installing it back on the car. Center mount carb on a 914 wasn’t the way to go anyhow I’ve been told.
The Fuel Injection is much better for a stock motor.
We have people on here that can sell you things like a new fuel injection wiring harness and MPS diaphragms to help keep it running like new.
Clay
Posted by: shane Mar 19 2021, 09:13 AM
Thanks, the PO took the whole fuel injection system off and put it in a box cause he couldn’t get it to idle evenly. So I cleaned and checked out the parts to and am installing it back on the car. Center mount carb on a 914 wasn’t the way to go anyhow I’ve been told.
The Fuel Injection is much better for a stock motor.
We have people on here that can sell you things like a new fuel injection wiring harness and MPS diaphragms to help keep it running like new.
Clay
It’s definitely an extra cost to set up the FI but one that’s hopefully going to make a huge difference in performance, and no more random gas smells.
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