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Posted by: bkrantz Jan 24 2021, 08:31 PM

What do you all think of this location for mounting my new pump in the front?

Besides space, I have some other goals:

1. Avoiding mounting on any sheet metal shared with the passenger compartment.
2. As much protection as possible.
3. Short fuel line runs between the tank, filter, pump, and hard lines.
4. Access to the lines without pulling the tank.
5. Access to the pump without pulling the tank.

My proposed location probably does not satisfy goal 5 (maybe), but otherwise I like it.


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Posted by: r_towle Jan 24 2021, 08:44 PM

I think if you take a look at the later model cars, there is a cut out of the front wall at the tank, with a stock cover that may suit your needs better.
I mounted mine in the front trunk on the passenger side to provide simple access to change filter elements.

Posted by: ndfrigi Jan 24 2021, 08:46 PM

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 24 2021, 09:19 PM

I do know about the stock 75-76 location on the left side, but I prefer not to cut an access hole in the bulkhead. With my proposed location, I might be able to remove the pump through the existing big round hole.

Posted by: Montreal914 Jan 24 2021, 09:32 PM

Edit: That seems like a challenge .If you don't want to do the 75-76 upgrade, maybe better in the rack and pinion area to have an easy access... I am in the process of moving mine to the front and will do the 75-76 cutout. Porsche did it that way, I will use their engineering . I also plan on recuperating the square filter bracket from the back of the car and move it to the stock 75-76 location per yellow car picture above.

Posted by: r_towle Jan 24 2021, 10:44 PM

Based upon my multiple locations, and my big hands, I could not get the pump out of that hole.
I would agree that under the car near the rack is a better choice.
Volvo had a similar pump under the p1800 and it lasts about 30 years...
I believe there is plenty of room near the rack for both the pump and a smaller inlet filter.
Put the other filter in the engine bay.

Posted by: JamesM Jan 25 2021, 01:00 AM

I always move them to either one of the 2 locations that the factory/dealer moved them to. Either the stock 75+ location by cutting the front bulk head on the driver side and using the factory blister/cover, or behind the steering rack cover under the car on the passenger side. The location you have it in the picture looks like it would be extremely difficult or impossible to fully access once the tank is in.

Posted by: mlindner Jan 25 2021, 04:47 AM

Same goals, up front, good access to pump and filter. Best, Mark

Posted by: Olympic 914 Jan 25 2021, 08:41 AM

I just went through this myself. Pump is also mounted below the tank.

I was not looking forward to pulling the tank to access it either.

But once I started on the job, it was not so bad. Didn't remove the front lid, but i did scratch the paint with the tray around the filler neck. so I removed it. changed the filter when I was in there.

one man job.

I don't like the idea of beating up the steering pan tray, like I had to do when it was mounted down by the rack. Maybe that pump will fit without doing that IDK.

Posted by: Shivers Jan 25 2021, 09:58 AM

Could one of you guy's post a few pics for us interested in reproducing the 75-76 fuel pump access opening and plate. A measurement of the opening would be awesome. Thank you.

Posted by: ndfrigi Jan 25 2021, 10:06 AM

saw one on ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274543331283

Posted by: Jamie Jan 25 2021, 10:52 AM

I found there was plenty enough room to mount pump under steering rack cover in my 73, plus 2 filters. I damaged 2 filter socks trying to install in tank, so a filter before and after the pump makes more sense to me. Also placed a filter in engine compartment before injector rail, easy access to cheap filters is better than a plugged injector.

Posted by: JeffBowlsby Jan 25 2021, 11:26 AM

Don't forget the pair of ~1" thick rubber isolators to mount the bracket to the body.

Posted by: Jamie Jan 25 2021, 11:40 AM

I made spacers out of truck inner tube, easy to hear the pump start when I turn the key!

Posted by: Shivers Jan 25 2021, 11:46 AM

Thanks. I'll make the plate here, more interested in the size of the opening in the bulkhead. Never worked on a 75-76, makes perfect sense to put it there.

Posted by: jim_hoyland Jan 25 2021, 12:06 PM

Moved the pump from behind the firewall to the front compartment. Sits on a shelf and has a removable plexiglass cover do nothing snags.

Posted by: jim_hoyland Jan 25 2021, 12:06 PM

Moved the pump from behind the firewall to the front compartment. Sits on a shelf and has a removable plexiglass cover do nothing snags.
Left to right: ball valve - fuel filter- pump - pressure gauge


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Posted by: bbrock Jan 25 2021, 02:10 PM

The opening is approximately 6.5" x 2.5" but it is best to have a 75-76 blister cover in hand to make a template. I just test mounted my pump in my retrofit opening yesterday. Pics below and here's a link to my process for cutting the opening. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=307290&view=findpost&p=2652159

And if I were the OP, I'd do as others have suggested and put it in the steering rack area the same as the factory specified for pump relocation per recall. That's where mine was when I bought my car and it worked find in that location.

Posted by: jhynesrockmtn Jan 25 2021, 02:29 PM

I went through this over the winter. My car is a 1970 1.7. Years ago the PO had a mechanic mount the 3 port pump up front by zip tying it to the steering rack. It was a mess.

I redid all of the fuel lines using Chris Foley's tunnel lines and his fuel pump mount. This provides great access to the filter and pump but I had a heck of a time getting the lines routed and all of this to fit without kinking the fuel line. It's working now though and I've got a few hundred miles on it.

The pic is in process. I couldn't find one with it all hooked up but this will give you an idea of what I did.

Posted by: mlindner Jan 25 2021, 03:32 PM

Jim hoyland, thats sharp, nice job. Mark

Posted by: Shivers Jan 25 2021, 04:44 PM

Thank you. I'll have a look at the rack area

Posted by: 914werke Jan 25 2021, 06:42 PM

If anyone is interested I have that panel cut from a donor car + cover that I would let go, but you gotta be ready to

Posted by: Jamie Jan 25 2021, 07:55 PM

Very neat looking job, what is the source of that spare tire?

Posted by: Jamie Jan 25 2021, 07:57 PM

I eliminated a lot of extra hose and potential kinks by bending U forms from metal fuel line tubing. Makes a very neat installation possible.

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 25 2021, 08:09 PM

Thanks, everyone. I have gone ahead with my idea to mount the pump under the tank, on the right side, with a hope I can pull the pump if necessary through the big round access hole.

To make that possible I drilled a half inch hole in the "floor" above the steering rack. This allows a screw driver to reach the bolt on the pump clamp.


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Posted by: bkrantz Jan 25 2021, 08:11 PM

Here's the hole from above.

More pics when I get this done.


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Posted by: 914_teener Jan 25 2021, 08:17 PM

Don't put it under the tank or the rack cover.

All goals including 5 can be had by putting it just behind the firewall behind the passenger seat on the engine compartment side. It's not near the exhaust and you can easily get to it to inspect the filter and run minimal flexible fuel lines. If there is an issue with the pump, you can easily get to and and no Rube Goldberg arcs with the fuel line to kink to try to hit the fuel line opening in the tunnel.

Mount it with some rivnuts and the stock threaded bushings.

Did a thread on it many many moons ago.

Good luck...you did ask for advice.

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 26 2021, 09:02 PM

Comments appreciated. In my previous life episode with 914s I tried to get both a street car and race car to work with fuel pumps in the engine compartment (stock location and elsewhere), and never had 100% success. In both cars I ended up with the pump up front, which also makes sense (to me) as pushing the longest distance instead of "pulling", more like relying on gravity.

Posted by: iankarr Jan 26 2021, 09:36 PM

Looks like a great spot. Only thing I’m curious about is whether the lines will kink since they’re making a sharp turn in a limited space. I guess you can always get around that by coiling a longer length. Great work as always...

Posted by: 914_teener Jan 28 2021, 03:19 PM

Under the rack requires more coiling of the flex line then under the tank.

The problem with under the tank is just that....It's under the tank. It only took me taking the tank out two times and I never wanted to do it again.

The other thing about cutting more holes in that area is...unless there is a cover...is that area creates a structural diaphram for the front end.

In my engineer mind....I don't like that idea.

As far as the OP comments about pushing fuel instead of pulling it....the engineers designed that loop for the fuel induction it was using. So.....if you are using different induction then the fuel loop matters as does the type of pump yuo are using. I would NOT put the pump up front without replacing the tunnel lines with SS or steel lines at the very least.

Posted by: ClayPerrine Jan 28 2021, 03:28 PM

I have mounted 914 fuel pumps in the location shown in the first picture. It works great. And unless it is full, I can have the tank out in 15 minutes. Only problem I had with putting it there was kinking a suction hose.


I also use an Airtex pump for the factory Fuel Injection. Never had a failure yet.

Clay

Posted by: 914_teener Jan 28 2021, 03:44 PM

Yep...I agree...works fine:

1. So long as you know while you are putting it in and unless you are doing it with two people to assure yourself that you are not kinking the line and unless you've drained the tank...it works great.

Like I said..consider the fuel pump you are using and the lines.

Posted by: bkrantz Jan 28 2021, 10:48 PM

Thanks. I agree about cutting more holes in any original design, but in this case I am not too worried about a new 1/2 inch hole.

And yes, I have replaced the tunnel lines with SS tubing.

Posted by: Highland Jan 29 2021, 03:38 PM

Is this location above the bottom of the tank pick-up? Could this cause a problem if you're running near empty?

Posted by: robkammer Feb 21 2021, 04:26 PM

Those are some great shots of pump relo's. I'm just getting into my new BB and found that the pump relo looks pretty sketchy. I have a lot of other things to address first but will get to the pump reset before too long. As things sometime happen, I've only driven the car around my shop building and not on the road. Have the brakes out and off to PMB for rebuild and a cryoclean guy coming out this week to give it a bottom cleaning.
My fuel pump is below the tank, next to the master cylinder, I've attached a pic. IMO it's got way too much going on with lines and wires and zip ties for me to be confident of the install.
The electrical feed is coming from below the engine compartment through the tunnel. I need to at least redo the connectors. Is there a better way to power the pump?
Thank for any input.


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Posted by: robkammer Mar 12 2021, 06:21 AM

Thanks everyone! Great feedback and good pics too. At this point I'm going to tie it back up right where is is just so I can drive the car once I have brakes back in. PMB has the calipers now. The pump is mounted with rubber mounts that seem to be through bolted into the passenger compartment. So it mounted well, just messy.I dropped the pum and filter to allow access for the Cryocleaning guy, and the air pressure popped the wires off the pump. Fortunately I had taken a picture beforehand that clearly shows how they were attached.
Just to be sure I checked continuity to the wires I assumed were feeding the pump and they are. However, two things have me wondering: when disconnected to the pump, both leads show continuity to ground.
So then I checked Haynes, in the drawing the wire that leads to the grounding post is the wire that was connected up front to the pump post that is called out as + in the drawing a few pages back in the manual.
I don't currently have a battery installed but will put the old battery in just to confirm which is truly the hot lead.
That leads to another question: does it matter which terminal gets the positive and ground? I've always believed a dc motor will run in reverse if the polarity is reversed. Don't think reverse would let it run very well.
And one more question: The square filter is pretty bulky, what other filters are folks using that will help tidy this mess up and at the next installation?
Thanks again everyone.

Posted by: rgalla9146 Mar 12 2021, 09:05 AM

That can be removed easily if both fasteners are through the big hole panel.
Move it down a bit.
Include enough hose to allow it to be removed through the hole with hoses attached.
I did it that way.

Posted by: rhodyguy Mar 12 2021, 02:17 PM

Any sort of service, like changing the filter, results in a fuel bath. That plenty of room gets smaller when working from below. Pulling fuel lines one handed thru the hole is one thing. Getting them back on is another. Working blind. I never found pulling a drained tank that much of a hassle. Let line coil naturally and lay in the bottom. Long enough to access the clamps by raising the tank.

Posted by: Van B Feb 18 2023, 02:35 PM

Reviving this thread because it comes up in search results.

Is anyone reproducing the late model cover and bracket setup? @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=453 has been out of stock on his covers for a while. But I also don’t see any brackets around. Before I start cutting and welding, I want to be sure theres not a ready made option out there.

Posted by: FJ1200 Aug 9 2023, 11:30 AM

A little late to the party, but here you go

https://www.restoration-design.com/store/product/PP318P

Posted by: second wind Aug 9 2023, 05:08 PM

I have to pitch in as I just did this to my '73 2.0. When I put in my SS fuel lines in the tunnel I redid all of the rubber lines with cloth covered fuel lines to be "original" and "european" but what a mistake!! The ethanol content out here in Los Angeles evidently is so high the cloth covered lines were shot to hell and I had leak after leak. It took me weeks but I now have top of the line state-of-art high pressure SAE J30 R9 fuel lines and I am so relieved that I might not get a rotted out fuel line for a while. Seeing a puddle of gas under your car when you head out on your Sunday drive kinda' kills the mood. I am still looking for an economical halon type fire extinguisher as well.
All the best,
gg

Posted by: stoneman30hotmail Oct 6 2023, 07:17 PM

This thread is what comes up for pump relocation but I haven't found many examples of with the steering rack. So here is:
Got through this in a day. Only need one wire if you make a good ground. The filter is pretty big and is a little pressed in with the panel.



I put holes for the wire just big enough to also put in some old washer tubing as a type of grommet/protection going through the sheet metal.

Posted by: ILM914 Oct 6 2023, 07:43 PM

Hot my pump relocation kit from George at Auto Atlanta - mounted in the rack area - has worked great no issues no hole cutting

Posted by: Geezer914 Oct 7 2023, 06:30 AM

I mounted mine on the steering rack. I took the fuel pump mount off the front cover and mounted it to the steering rack with large hose clamps. Get the SS U bend from Chris Foley so you don't kink the fuel line.