so, i'm doing some CV replacing, but i can't get the old CV to come off the halfshaft.
i took off the retainer clip and the shaft will move until it sits flush with the CV surface and then it's just stuck there ...
i don't want to hit the CV too hard as i'm afraid it'll just explode on me ...
any ideas ???
Andy
Sometimes the splines at the end of the axles get a little peened over..put the axle in a vise and tap the joint off using a hammer and punch on the inner part of the joint
QUOTE (SirAndy @ Jul 19 2005, 03:27 PM) |
so, i'm doing some CV replacing, but i can't get the old CV to come off the halfshaft. i took off the retainer clip and the shaft will move until it sits flush with the CV surface and then it's just stuck there ... i don't want to hit the CV too hard as i'm afraid it'll just explode on me ... any ideas ??? Andy |
retainer clip removed ...
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that's how far it will go ...
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QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Jul 19 2005, 04:36 PM) |
BFH and a good sized drift. Hit ONLY the inner race. |
Knock the boot free from the joint and slide it back out of your way
if you have a dead blow hammer that may help (best money every spent). Support the joint some how from the back inner race (maybe a bench vise almost closed down on the shaft ). Drive the shaft out with a hammer using a metal rod or what ever you have that is a little smaler then the size of the shaft. You may want to take it to a shop and give then 5or10 bucks to press it off, should only take a minute to do. May be quicker and safer than playing with it.
QUOTE (SirAndy @ Jul 19 2005, 03:40 PM) | ||
so can i hit the inner race from the backside, through the boot? Andy |
Didn't reailze, drive that back dust cap off with a drift. You should just have the black joint part
I'd tap the cv back on and see if you've got any major burrs that need cleaning up. Just slide the boot halfway down the shaft, clean up the grease, drop the shaft through a vise (with the jaws closed enough to catch the inner race of the cv), and use a brass punch in the dimple of the shaft end to drive it through. Before I had a real brass punch I used the butt end of an old drumstick. The small end of the drumstick (sans tip)also worked really good for a distributor drive puller
QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Jul 19 2005, 04:59 PM) |
You're gonna replace the boot with the joint, right? Just knock it off the joint, pull it back, and hit the joint from the backside. |
the 944 axle, rubber boots don't seem to come off by themselves ...
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Ok so sorry to jack you Andy but I have a similar problem:
Reomving the .5 shafts from the car/wheels-
trying to salvage some .5 shats and CV's off a 76 that is going to the wrecker. Removed the triple squares from the stub axcels ...they should just come off right?
No amount of yanking beating or will free them from the axcels still mounted to the trailing arms
What am I missing?
(and no I gave up trying to remove the castelated nuts on the stub axels thoses suckers are frozen on there)
they should come off...pic of 944 C/V joint kit
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QUOTE (ejm @ Jul 19 2005, 05:35 PM) |
they should come off...pic of 944 C/V joint kit |
QUOTE (rdauenhauer @ Jul 19 2005, 04:25 PM) |
. Removed the triple squares from the stub axcels ...they should just come off right? |
Maybe I did it the wrong way. I unbolted the triple squares from the stub and used the axle as a slide hammer. Three or four times of pushing the axle in and yanking it out and the CV came right off the stub. The weight of the axle and the inboard CV did all of the work.
You can also pull the boot back, turn the cv enough to come apart, clean it up, and then warm up the center race with a torch before you "tap" it out.
got an air hammer? put the force on the shaft, not the cv... get it?
I would use a press. Its amazing how easy it makes things.
Also if the cv joint comes apart on you good luck. I spent about 45 minutes putting one back together. Now I can say I at least did it , and dont want to do it again.
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