It had been about eleven years since my last 914 build. It was shown on the cover of the January 2010 Retro Cars Magazine. It was a 72 with a 327 Chev small block, GT flares , 5 lug conversion and a long list of modifications. I have spent the last eleven years building , restoring , highly modifying two separate 912s. One was converted from a short to long wheelbase RSR, the other was a 69 912 converted to an R Gruppe style 911. I have owned about eight 914s over the years and I always seem to be drawn back to their mid-engined targa topped allure.
About a year and a half ago, I obtained a 72 roller from fellow 914 world enthusiast Brian Adkins. He was nice enough to give me a good dal on the car, so it was time to begin my next crazy idea.
I am installing a 2004 Subaru EZ30R engine with an 04 WRX transmission converted from four to two wheel drive. The trans is very strong and able to handle all the power I want to throw at it. It will have a hydraulic clutch and operated by a Cable system.
The engine will be operated with an ECU Master computer. The power output should be in the 280-300 hp range per the experts that use these motors in sand rail conversions.
The car initially received a 1.7 four generously donated by Chris Baker (Tyga Boy). I got the car running well enough to participate in last year's West Coast Rally. I actually won an award for Best Patina ( Best Shit Box) . I have since pulled the motor and trans, stripped the paint, collected most of the parts needed for the conversion and will install the new drivetrain very soon.
It is my intention to show many pictures and details of the process.
Many thanks to to all those that have in the past and in the future helped me to achieve my goals for this project. I couldn't do it without hem.[attachmentid=788074] [attachmentid=788074]
Hey Bob - A couple things:
We don't want promises of pics... we want actual pics!
Best of luck with this latest build. Let me know if there's anything I can do to help.
Bob. I agree with Chris. Let’s see some pictures of that engine.
Good choice. That R series is easy to flip the intake 180 and avoid cutting the trunk since it is DBW. Looking forward to another Suby conversion. And what Chris said. Post pic's or it didn't really happen.
Sounds exciting! I’ll be looking forward to what I hope is an excessively detailed build!
I loved Retro Cars! My brother used to contribute content and I wish it was still around.
Here is the car as I first saw it. It has a 2.0 ltr motor with a side shifter trans and 4 bolt Fuchs. None of those things will be with the car when iI obtain it.[attachmentid=788194]
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You want pictures? I got pictures. Here are more pictures showing all the details that will have to addressed in the restoration/modification of this car.
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I brought the car home and began to clean and inspect what actually needs to be done, (everything). I picked up a 901 side shifter and 1.7 ltr. motor from Chris @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=19241 .
The next posts will show the process of obtaining all the missing parts, installing and getting the car to run under it's own power.
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Looks like a great start. I like all that room you have on the side of your house for the car.
Looking good! I spy a 968...
The upgrade process begins. The seats were replaced with nicer units obtained from Chris@Tigaboy. The 916 front bumper was removed and replaced with a Chrome 73 unit I had in storage and the wheels and tires were replaced with EMPI replica Fuchs along with 205/50/15 RE71R tires.
The hood was stripped of all the cracked paint.
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The restoration continues. I changed the front bumper, added a spoiler. there is a before and after picture showing the initial installation and one with it repaired and painted. I changed the steering wheel, once again donated by Chris @ tygaboy. I installed new carpet floor mats. I removed the front bumper and painted the body black to freshen it up. There are before and after pictures of the car in it's then current state, then I changed the front and rear hoods for ones that were in better condition, (less rust). I also removed the rear spoiler to give a little cleaner look.
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Are you running the alt in the stock location?
Yes
Removed the gas tank to replace the fuel lines. A couple before and after pictures of the the area cleaned up.
The CONVERSION begins!
Pictures of the new radiator and it's fan housing as it fits in the car. It's a nice pice. It was originally made for a Celica.
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Looks good. What are the dimensions of the radiator?
Where's the beef? It's right here. Subaru EZ30R. 4 cam, variable cam on the intake, fly by wire throttle, individual exhaust ports for each cylinder as opposed to the one oval exhaust port on earlier motors. It should make about 280-300hp with the headers and stand alone management system.
Pictures of the radiator being mounted in the car. A few pictures of the shroud being made with my brake.
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I remove the dash pad and replaced the worn dash top with new material. A couple pictures of the car attending the WCR. It actually won an award for best patina. One picture shows the addition of a plastic dash top cover. Not the best solution, but it will do for now.
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Looking great Bob.
Still I like the red patina trunk and fronk ... you paid for that . LOL
I didn't see the 3.0 or 3.6 in their Base Maps section. Hopefully you'll provide more info for us Pilgrams as your build progresses. BTW, I'd never heard of them before. Thx for that info.
Here are pictures of the transmission I will be using. It is a 04 WRX 5speed. I had to fabricate a tool to lock the two shafts together so that I could remove an inner shaft bolt. I am missing the picture of the completed tool. What I did was cut two pieces of roll bar tubing, drilled holes in each piece to accommodate a rod that would hold it to the shaft. I used my tubing notcher to notch one end of each tube that would be welded to another piece of tubing that connects the two together. Pictures show the inner guts (shafts and gears) that were removed when converting the trans from four to two wheel drive. The final pictures show the new end plate that replaces the stock nose cone. If save about 5-6 inches in overall length of the trans while saving weight at the same time.
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Probably a stupid question, but what is the shaft that comes through the new cover plate? And does it have a purpose or just kind of hang out?
One thing I noticed about these Subaru motors is that all the bolts are on there really tight. Case in point, while removing the flywheel bolts, I had to use all my strength to break them loose. I got the first five to loosen up, the the remaining three would not budge. They are a female torx type bolt. I snapped the tool in half while trying to loosen them up and ended up stripping them all. Thats when that sinking feeling starts to creep in knowing that it could be a really expensive solution to getting the remaining bolts off the crankshaft. I tried vise grips, thread extractors and heat all to no avail.
The heads of the flywheel bolts are round and smooth and it's hard to get a good angle to grip them.
Then I got an idea...
I went to the hardware store and bought some nuts with an internal diameter of the exterior diameter of the bolt head. I slid them over the bolt head and welded the nut to the bolt head. I then bought a new socket to match the nut diameter and proceeded to attempt to remove the stuck bolt.
It came out like butter.
I posted my solution to help anyone who might find themselves in a similar hopeless situation.
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What a great idea, and I'm shocked nobody thought to do that before. I ended up cutting into one of mine once, and using a big flat-head screwdriver...cut and attached to a socket...attached to an impact driver.
Seems so obvious now.
Well done!
I started to make some plates for the trans cradle mount. A picture of them mounted. I installed the flywheel and started to unclutter the engine by removing the power steering pump and the AC compressor. I obtained and installed a nice aluminum turnbuckle to adjust the belt for the alternator.
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I was getting a little bored and decided to look into a small rust spot around the left front turn signal lens. I got out my heat gun and single edge razor blade holder and began to remove the paint surrounding the lens. What I found was that it really not the serious and easily repairable. The only problem was I couldn't stop myself and began to strip the entire car of it's "patina". Sometimes I get a little obsessive. I just can't help myself. I stripped the whole body, the front and rear trunks and the interior.
I found a picture of a car color I liked in a 2017 914 calendar. Does anyone know what color that is?
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Which flywheel did you go with?
Rob's car maybe? ABM - Alaska blue metallic
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=352836
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=7784
I removed the rockers to see what surprises lay ahead for me. I was happily surprised to find that they are both in great shape. The only repair needed will be to reweld the top of the jack receiver tube. After cleaning them up, they look quite good. I have been noticing a fuel smell every once in awhile. The picture shows the hose disconnected from the the tube. Perhaps that was the culprit. Very happy.
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Todays post is showing the pedal box conversion from cable to hydraulic. This design was inspired from a post by Kent @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9964 . I basically copied his design for the bracket, but I came up with a different design for the connection between the pedal lever and the clutch master cylinder. The master cylinder is a unit from a Honda Civic.
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I received a engine and transmission cradle from Coldwater. The following pictures show the cradle as I received it, unwrapped and mount in the car. I even showed it mounted to the engine. This is a very nice piece. The welds are better than I can produce and the quality is quite good.
There is a fitment issue with my particular engine and header of choice. Rather than modify this nicely put together piece, I am going to go another direction. Ian is working on another design to accommodate my specific needs. Therefore, this cradle is now available. I live in the northern California bay area. If anyone is interested in it and not wanting to wait for one to be built by Coldwater, mine is now available.
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Those cradles look awesome. Is the engine cradle not well suited for an EZ30R engine, or does is it have to do more with your header choice? I thought it was designed to work with a variety of Subaru engines, including the EZ30.
I started to build some bracketry for the cable shift mechanism that would mount to the transmission. The material I obtained is 6063 aluminum. I experienced some difficulty in drilling this material. While drilling, the bits would seize in the material and ultimately snap. Previously, I have never had any problems drilling aluminum, so this was becoming frustrating. What I ultimately found out was that even though I didn't think that spindle speed and lubrication would matter that much, it does. I calculated the the spindle speed by taking the cutting speed of aluminum, times it by four and dividing the result by the diameter of the drill bit. The end result was that I needed to speed up the spindle speed considerably. I did that and added some cutting oil for insurance. The end result was much more successful. I've posted a few pictures of the first bracket. I will post more in a future installment.
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A couple pictures of the headers I got from Outfront Motorsports. They are nicely done and look to add power to my engine. A couple pictures of something to look out for when mating the trans to the engine. There are locating pins on the engine and the trans. I had to remove the pin from the trans to allow them to fit together. A picture of the engine and trans as they are being installed in the car.
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Look what just came in the mail! I just received my new floorboard set up for a Fly by wire throttle. I also received my new rear 5 bolt hubs from PMB. They look pretty good.
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I received my new "modified" cradle from Coldwater 914. It had one of the side braces modified to clear my header. Lots of pictures showing the headers installed on the motor, the cradle mounted to the motor and finally the engine and cradle installed in the car. I had to make my own transmission mount to accommodate the for and aft positioning of the motor /trans combination.
It is finally in the car!
Next thing to do it modify the chassis to make clearance for the intake manifold, starter, clutch slave cylinder and actuating arm.
After that it will be time to measure for the axles and have them sent out to be modified to accommodate the Subi inner and 914 outer CVs.
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I received shift cables and the rear linkage for the transmission shifter from Coldwater 914. I think I will try this for now and possibly convert to my billet bracket shown in an earlier post at a later time. I received my fly by wire accel pedal from ebay and attached it to my newly acquired floor board. It looks pretty nice. After the motor and trans were installed in the car, I remounted my starter. It seems to have the clearance that I need without having to cut up trunk floor.
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Is that the stock Subaru starter?
Looking great, and that's good news on the starter fitment.
A little progress being made on the installation of the complete shifting mechanism. I installed the Coldwater 914 shift linkage to the transmission. I then installed the shift cables, (also supplied by Coldwater 914) and ran them though the hole that was once occupied by the shifting rod, ( let's refrain from the obvious jokes that will surely follow from that last statement). In order to connect the Heim joints on the cable to the shifter, I purchased some bronze bushings from Ace hardware that just happened to have an OD of 3/8" and an ID of 1/4". I placed a washer over the bushing to give it more clearance so that the Joint would not bind and hit metal during operation.
It was then that I decided to build a stand for the shifter to be mounted on. The whole idea was to locate the shifter higher and closer to me so that I would not have to reach so far to shift from gear to gear, as in a stock 914.
Being a weekend with most metal stores closed, I had to come up with a solution that I could do on a Sunday. So I went to Ace Hardware and bought some 1" aluminum angle and 1" square tubing and began to construct a box that the shifter could be mounted on. It is held together with 6mm Allen head screws and Nut-Certed where needed.
I am happy to report that this thing has all five gears along with reverse. It shifts like a Miata with a short shift kit installed. I have never felt a shifter that is this short, precise and crisp. I can't wait to see how it feels while driving.
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Yep, you're going to like that location for your shifter and you've already tasted the fruit of this smooth, short throw combination.
the public demands updates!
Sorry for the slow updates, I have been painting my house and attended car shows, (Reno Hot August Nights and Monterrey car week). I have managed to work on the car a little here and there.
I got some aircraft paint remover and began stripping the paint from the exterior of the car along with the rear trunk. The car is basically straight. Both doors will need a little work to make them straight. All in all, I am happy with what I found under the old paint.
I installed my pedal box and began to plumb the hydraulic clutch assembly. This is not an easy job. There is very little room to work with, but I think I have got it solved.
I am running in to a problem with the gap in between the throw out bearing release arm and the rod from the clutch slave cylinder. It is too large. I think the should be touching, but there a gap of approximately 1/2-3/4 of an inch. I don't know if I installed it wrong or the the slave cylinder rod needs to be extended. (pictures of that to follow).
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I've always enjoyed watching a good strip show.
Bob: Thanks for the updates. I enjoy dropping by to see what trouble you have created. That Subi engine, with headers, minus emissions, is going to roar.
See attached pictures of the excessive clearance between the throw out bearing release arm and the clutch slave cylinder rod.
I don't know if I installed the release lever wrong, or the rod needs to be lengthened.
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I don't think that is the correct slave cylinder. It is definitely different from the 2 that I have on my conversions. What is the TY# on your transmission.
Are you sure the T0B is locked into the clutch springs? With the slave cylinder removed you have to pull back on the release lever to get the TOB engaged. Then the lever will be all the way back with the slave rod pushed in. If the release lever is loose, it’s not engaged and won’t pull to release the clutch. At least that was my experience with mine (EJ20 & WRX trans).
This a picture of what it looks like inside the bell housing before I put it together. I'm wondering it the two tabs popped out of the sockets...
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Looks a little different from mine, but my guess is you have the TOB reversed. The notch on the nose of the TOB engages with the locking ring on the clutch spring-fingers.
Updates??
Sorry for the long delay in updating the thread. My life got very busy as of late. I moved my office. I'm preparing my home for possible sale, and have been working on a separate
project. I have been making a Bomber seat for a friends Safari 911 with a little help from Tyga Boy.
I have made a little progress on the cooling system. I installed the coolant hoses from the front to the to rear, I drilled the holes and installed the grommets to protect them while passing through the fire wall. I made the hose connection from the the hose to the radiator. As they exit the fire wall and proceed to the radiator, they kink, so I had to install 90 degree fittings to make sure they get full flow and are not restricted. What I did is not the the final product, I'm really not happy with the result, but it will work for now. I plan to make one piece aluminum tubes from the firewall to the radiator in the future.
I completed the radiator and shrouding along with the top cover panel only to find that the hood would not shut and latch. GRRR.
I had to take it all apart and re-engineer it to make clearance. That meant cutting the frame apart, modify, re-weld along with cutting and reconfiguring the flanges on the shroud. After that, the brackets that hold the radiator to the frame had to be bent to properly fit.
Many of the things I am doing at this point are "proof of concept". I am just trying to get it to work. When completed and running, I will strip the car down to a bare shell, media blast, add the GT flares, paint the car, convert to 5 lug and make everything "pretty" as it goes back together. [attachmentid=826016] [attachmentid=826017]
Sorry for the long delay in updating the thread. My life got very busy as of late. I moved my office. I'm preparing my home for possible sale, and have been working on a separate
project. I have been making a Bomber seat for a friends Safari 911 with a little help from Tyga Boy.
I have made a little progress on the cooling system. I installed the coolant hoses from the front to the to rear, I drilled the holes and installed the grommets to protect them while passing through the fire wall. I made the hose connection from the the hose to the radiator. As they exit the fire wall and proceed to the radiator, they kink, so I had to install 90 degree fittings to make sure they get full flow and are not restricted. What I did is not the the final product, I'm really not happy with the result, but it will work for now. I plan to make one piece aluminum tubes from the firewall to the radiator in the future.
I completed the radiator and shrouding along with the top cover panel only to find that the hood would not shut and latch. GRRR.
I had to take it all apart and re-engineer it to make clearance. That meant cutting the frame apart, modify, re-weld along with cutting and reconfiguring the flanges on the shroud. After that, the brackets that hold the radiator to the frame had to be bent to properly fit.
Many of the things I am doing at this point are "proof of concept". I am just trying to get it to work. When completed and running, I will strip the car down to a bare shell, media blast, add the GT flares, paint the car, convert to 5 lug and make everything "pretty" as it goes back together. [attachmentid=826016] [attachmentid=826017]
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I'm surprised the electrolysis police haven't commented yet. They did when I used some copper fittings. Some people read about it but fail to fully understand it. Bottom line; you have an aluminum engine, trans and radiator so basically no worries. Be sure to ground your Subaru trans just as the 901 was to be complete. You can add an anode rod to your radiator to insure it has a long life. BTW, I inspected a couple of my copper fittings after 20K and maybe a 2mm BB of aluminum on one of them. Good to see you back at it.
Major changes in my life... I have decided to go another direction with this project .
I am offering this project car along with many parts for sale.
5 bolt conversion parts: 911 SC front struts with calipers and rotors. PMB rear 5 bolt hubs and studs.
Brand new in the box GT flares.
7", 8" and 9" x 16" replica Fuchs
Brand new ECU Master ECU along with conversion plugs and wiring harness for the Subaru motor.
Brand new Subaru axles.
New Carpet kit
All the parts listed in the thread to this point.
PM me or call my cell @ 925 708-2698.
Bob
I'M BACK!
Things have changed for the better. I have decided to continue with this project.
I began by starting the GT flare conversion. I've posted pictures of the flares as I received them to before and after shots of the right front flare installation.
I won't cut the body and weld them permanently until all four are mocked up to verify correct fitment.
One detail of note when doing the flare installation is that you must cut away the bottom flange section of the existing body in order to fit the flares to the body. The flares won't fit flush if you don't...
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The flares are looking great already. Bad Ass!
Ima start callin' you "Jed". Jed Clamp-it!
I have mocked up all four flares and am ready to weld them in permanently.
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Excited to hear this fire up
Major transformation- very exciting.
The first flare to be permanently mounted. I will finish the welding and metal finishing once all the flares are mounted.
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The remaining three flares are now mounted and tacked welded to the chassis. Final welding and metal finishing to follow.
Next up, 911 SC strut recondition. New paint, Bilstein inserts, bearings etc.
Upon completion of that, I will install them to begin the 5 bolt conversion.
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I got a pair of 911 SC front struts that had been sitting around for many years. They were dirty and partially corroded. I began the disassembly of the the various components to begin their restoration. I first remove the calipers from the struts, then the hubs, then I separated the rotors from the hubs.
I began to clean the grease and grime from many years of neglect. I then bead blasted the struts, hubs and rotors.
I will paint the struts.
I will next replace the bearing races in the hubs and struts and reassemble the two together.
A couple pictures of how clean they came out. Sorry, I forgot to take a (before) picture.
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After many hours of standing while bead blasting the struts, rotors and hubs, I began to think "I'm getting too old for this sh*t". My feet, back and neck were killing me.
The good news is, progress has been made!
I replaced the seal race on the struts, ( they were was removed in error and subsequently thrown away, Grrr).
The struts were painted, new inserts installed (Bilstein) and now ready for installation.
The A arms were blasted and repainted.
New bearings, races and seals were installed in the hubs; rotors were bolted on and now the units were ready for installation.
New ball joint were installed.
There is a special socket used to remove and replace the ball joints. It is an easy job when you have the right tools.
Much thanks to fellow 914 World member Mark Saunders for lending me the tool.
The 5 bolt front end conversion has been completed with exception of the calipers. They will be rebuilt and installed at a later time.
All put together now with temporary 6" Fuchs on the front. They will be replaced with 8s in the future/
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Love the Tarrett front sway bar. I crawled under your car yesterday. Nice job on the turbo tie rod ends with boots.
With the 5 bolt conversion more than half way completed, it is now time to sell my virtually brand new EMPI 4 bolt Fuchs replica wheels (5.5") mounted with Bridgestone Potenza RE71R tires. They are 205/50/15. They only have about 300-400 miles on them.
This will also include new lug bolts as well.
$750.00 for the set.
I will also list this in the classified section.
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I treated myself to a nice birthday present last week.
I bought a new TIG welder from Eastwood. They had a great sale going on, so I thought "why not".
I recently sold my old HUGH Lincoln Square wave transformer welder. It was giving me problems, so I thought I would upgrade with a more modern unit.
I also had to make a 50 amp to 30 amp conversion plug/extension cord while I was at it.
Happy birthday and early Christmas all wrapped up in one.
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Happy Holidays everyone! I hope you all had a great Christmas.
More progress is being made.
I removed the rear trailing arms. I then bead blasted, primered and painted them to give them a new refreshed look.
I have shown a before and after pictures to illustrate.
I then replaced the pivot bushings and main hub bearing. I used my new Harbor freight bearing and race removing tool to accomplish that task.
I then decided to give myself a present form Santa. I bought a Harbor Freight hydraulic press.
I used it to press in the new studs into my new PMB 5 bolt hubs. It is a little challenging trying to get it set up as each progressive stud is pressed into the hub. After using a few different pieces of metal to evenly distribute the load on the hub, it worked beautifully.
All was going well until I attempted to install the hub onto the trailing arm. I tried to be very careful and get the hub square to the trailing arm. It was off just a little, so I rocked it to adjust it and the bearing split apart. GRRR.
I decided to turn off the lights, shut the garage door, order a new bearing and try again another day.
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Those trailing arms and hubs look GREAT! Sucks about the bearing but you'll get past this in no time!
You'll end up using the press on lots of projects.
More progress!
When we left off last time, we had a broken rear bearing with the race stuck to the hub.
That was removed using the tapered bearing plates along with the press.
A new bearing was installed along with the rear hub. I mounted the right rear trailing arm to the chassis, installed the new 914/6 rear rotor and installed the original brake caliper.
The pads do not clear the new rotor, so I had to use the adjuster screws to back out the pucks to make room. So far they still don't clear, so for now I just left the pads out to keep things going.
Note: there is a little circlip on the adjuster screw to keep the locking nut from backing out. You must first remove it before you loosen the locking nut. If you don't, it will jam up the screw and make things nmore difficult.
Ask me how I know this...
I moved on the left rear to complete the same process when I realized the new hub I received was mis packaged from the factory. They put in a 911 hub instead of a 914 hub.
The difference is that the 911 hub has 28 splines and the 914 hub has something like 32 splines. Of course when I tried to put in the axle, it would not go in.
I called the company and they were very good about it and sent me a new hub and bearing with the studs pressed in. ( Great customer service).
Once I received the new parts, everything went together just fine.
I then mounted my newly acquired Toyo Proxxes RA1 tires to my 8 & 9" wheels and mounted them on the car.
You ask "Wheres the beef?"
It's right here.
The wheels and tires completely fill up the space created from the flares and it looks great. I'm very happy.
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I was just wondering how your project was coming along... Looks good, nice to see the wheels on!
Those wheels and tires are impressive. They certainly fill up the space.
I am doing this same engine swap! I will be following this build. Great job so far!
That is a great engine for a 914. Subaru did their homework on the exhaust for this engine. Keep us up to date on your wiring progress, specifically what you are using for the ECU, and how the drive-by-wire ties in with the ECU.
I have basically finished the welding of the flares. I will do a little more grinding before I apply the primer sealer to all four corners of the car.
I received my doors back from my body and paint guy (Mike Hynes). They were in pretty bad shape to begin with but after Mike pretty much straightening and metal finishing them, they are very straight and look great.
I mounted the doors on the car to get an idea of how it will look. It's starting to lok like a car again.
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Looking great! I’m getting closer on my engine bay repairs, and then in goes EZ30 for the first time.
Nice thread
Nice progress! Can't wait to see you get back on that wiring...
It's been awhile. Much going on in my life, but the dust is finally starting to clear and I finally have some time to get to work on the car.
Much thanks to Chris Baker @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=19241 for help and motivation on getting back to working on the car.
Today he came over and we started to build an exhaust system for the car.
The header is from Outfront Motorsports. The tubing and muffler are from Summit Racing.
We (mostly Chris) spent the day cutting, measuring, grinding and Tig welding one side of the system.
My next job will be to mount the mullers and basically copy the side just completed for the other side of the system.
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Looks great! It seems like it’s designed without any crossover, which I would think simplifies the fabrication. What mufflers are you using?
That is a nice header they make. Did you go with SS or steel? Chris, are you sitting down on the job?
I finshed mounting the left side muffler. I've shown the mounting hardware, clamps and muffler as it looks from the rear.
I just received my axles back from Dutchman Motorsports. They did a nice job. They look great. Next job will be to clean and re-pack the Porsche CVs and install them on the axles along with the new Subaru CVs. I sure hope I got the measurement right and that they fit properly.
With a little luck, the next posting will show them mounted on the car.
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Nice! That mount set up looks like it's gonna work just fine. Can't wait to see it in person.
Another well spent Saturday with Chris Baker @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=19241 working on my exhaust system.
We, mostly Chris, cut, fit and welded the other side to my exhaust system. I will mount the muffler probably tomorrow. That should compllete the exhaust system except for possibly cera coat or paint, (we shall see).
After finishing the muffler installation, time permitting, I will begin assembling my new axles and test fit them to the car.
Stay tuned...
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Todays lesson is a lesson in frustration.
There is a saying, "You don't know what you don't know".
I sent out a couple of 914 axles to Dutchman to have them cut and resplined on one end to have them mate up with a Subaru CV joint that would attached to the transmission.
They did an excellent job and I am happy with their work.
I installed the 914 CV on one end and a Subaru CV on the other. I installed it on the car and it fit beautifully.
Then I went on to the other axle and this is where the fun started.
I attemted to install the 914 CV on one end to no avail. I thought, "this is strange".
So I called someone who does this kind of work, told them my problem. They told me that sometimes you have to use a hammer to get them on. I thought "OK", I will try that.
NOT!
Don't do that!
I ruined the CV and buggered up my axle.
I then spent a lot of time cleaning up the axle with a needle file and a dremel, but still no luck.
What I then realized is that I tried to put a 914/6 25 spline CV on a 914/4 axle (31 spline).
I will get the correct CV and all should be well.
Just remember, there is a difference. Check out what you have before it's too late.
happens when you get off the beaten path. I didn't post 80% of the headaches I went through for fear of looking like an idiot. Good to see your attitude remains intact. It's the only thing that will carry you through to the end. Well, that and not wanting to tell the wife how much you spent on a project that defeated you. You'll be driving it before you know it and it will all be worth it.
I found the correct 914/4 CV in my parts stash and proceeded to clean it up and re-pack it with grease.
That can be a very frustrating job. While putting it back together, it rotated out of alignment and the large end of the spline piece matched up with the large end of the CV. By the time I got all the ball bearings installed, I realized that it had jammed and would not operate as assembled. After much time to get it apart again, I aligned the parts corrctly and finally got it back together.
I mounted it on the axle and proceeded to mount the CV for the other side which uses a Subaru CV. I got it all together and went to mount it on the car when I realized that the new CV I bought fits the trans, but the inner spline does not fit my axle.
I can't win!
I could not find another Subaru CV locally when I had a thought.
Why don't I take the inner spline from one CV and match it with the outer splined housing from another.
Normally I woudn't mix and match CV parts because of wear, but they are brand new.
It all went together and is now mounted on the car. I will wait to drive it to determine if there are any issues with my remedy.
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It's probably fine. That broach has three bearings and they are new so it should be fine. I think all of us have had trouble with the Porsche CV the first few times around.
One less thing on the to-do list! Congrats
Happy belated Thganksgiving everyone!
It's been awhile since my last post. A lot has occured in that time,
It's time to announce a change in direction.
I have decided to move in a different direction and scrap the Subaru conversion and convert the car to a Porsche 914/6.
I have obtailned a fairly newly built 2.7 Ltr engine with "S" cams. I will run it with Weber carbs and a header with a sport exhaust.
I have sold all the Subaru conversion parts and have started to collect the parts neccessary to complete the project.
I purchased a Mad Dog engine mount. I am having a little difficulty figuring out how to actually mount it. It does not fit flushly (is that a word?) against the firewall as the thick wiring harness is in the way. It looks like I have to re-rout the harness to fit the mount.
I was wondering what everyone else has done. I'm looking for advise. Thank you in advance.
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@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9892 Ben (or any of you who may be able to help!) - can you offer any input on Bob's question about needing to re-route the wiring snorkel when fitting the MadDog /6 engine mount?
So that mount has to be cut to clear the shift boot attach flange.
Bob: I know you have a lot of hours into your 914/Subaru build. So, I applaud your decision to scrap that project and do a build you have always wanted to do.
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9892 - Thanks Ben! That'll help for sure.
Re: change to 911 swap: Cool! And you would if you could! It’s hard to see a 911 engine coming my way, so I’ll keep soldiering on with the E30R.
What is it about guys and taking directions.
I was having a phone conversation with Ben Mcfarland @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9892 . I'm telling him that I am going to drill the holes on the chassis for the oil tank filler, vent line and filter console.
He tells me to go SLOW, otherwise the drill will catch and rip out of your hand and probably injure you.
Having done this operation before, I naturally said "yea sure, I know what I'm doing".
Sure enough, I start slowly, but as it is taking longer than I wanted, I of course increase the speed of the drill to get the job done faster when all of a sudden, the hole saw bites and locks up which caused the drill to rip out of my hand and smack the back of my hand crushing it between the drill and the car.
OUCH!
Believe it or not, I start laughing at my self saying "You Idiot, you know better!"
Luckily, just a little blood, nothing permanant.
The holes are now cut and ready for the tank installation.
The moral of the story, BE PATIENT! Take your time.
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Robert,
Man I can totally invision the pain. I did chuckle a little reading this but not because you hurt your self but because I have done it myself
Having decided to convert the car from a 4 cyl to 6 cyl 911 engine, I thought the next step would be to make a list of all the parts needed to complete the project.
The following is that list:
Engine - 2.7 Ltr
Transmission - 914 Side shifter
Shifter and shifter rods (2), bushings
Engine mount
Oil Tank, lines and fittings
Half shafts with CV joints
Engine sheet metal (to seal engine compartment)
Weber carbs
Intake manifolds and linkage
engine oil cooler (modified for 914 configuration)
engine wiring harness
alternator (my engine did not come with one)
Distributor, cap and wires
3 pin CDI box
Clutch pedal return spring ( I removed mine during the Subaru conversion)
Many of these parts I have already obtained. I will be posting updates and progress pictures as we go.
I might also post requests for parts I do not have.
Stay tuned
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