On my '74 2.0, I can't get it to run right. It's gone through a restoration and put aside for 2 years. Now, back on it and it's almost done but[b] number 1 and 4 spark plugs are clean/wet and 2 and 3 are black, (after 10 seconds of running). What I've done so far: Rebuilt MPS, gapped points, static timing, set fuel pressure at around 27 lbs. Compession between 90 and 110. Plugs are sparking. All injectors spray (not sure of pattern). I believe plugs were new 2 years ago. They look new. It runs really rough, white smoke out exhaust and some mild popping. I though, maybe injector triggers but all are working from my, spray in the cup, test. Dizzy backwards? Any ideas to what's going on??
Thanks for any suggestions.
You say you set static timing but not dynamic timing? If not, I would start there. Static timing only gets you close enough to start the engine.
You need to do all the basics. (In this order)
Check valves. If they are not in spec, set them.
Do your timing (has to be set at 3k rpm)
Do your dwell
Change fluids (oil and gas)
Do compression with a hot engine, open throttle. See if your number come up. 90 is near rebuild.
Then you can worry about spark plugs. Right now you have no baseline. Get the basics done and go from there.
Zach
Ps: if your dizzy was backwards your car would not run and you would shoot fireballs out the intake. Fun times!
I have to ask, does the picture match the position in which they were taken out of the car or do the numbers next to the plugs represent the actual cyl number they were pulled from?
Just want to be clear here as 1 and 3 are opposite each other on the motor (Rearward most plugs) as are 2 and 4(forward plugs).
Makes a difference if you are seeing matching patterns on plugs directly across from each other or diagianal across from each other.
Cylinders 1&3 injectors open together.
Cylinders 2&4 injectors open together.
Plugs that are wet with fuel indicates a no fire condition.
Plugs that are oil fouled indicates an oil control problem.
Unplug coil wire. Pull the fuel rails with injectors attached, and place each one in a small glass container. Have someone crank the engine. Each container should have the same amount of fuel. This will verify the trigger points are working properly.
OK, where to start. Lots of good info coming in. Let's start with my mistake. Yes, I wrote the numbers wrong per cylinder. It's 1 and 3 that are clean/wet and 2 and 4 that are dark black. Memory is starting to give me trouble. I'll try and respond to all the suggestions. So, as Cabnitmaker states, 1 and 3 injectors trigger together so maybe that's an issue. Matching patterns straight across. Also, I did crank engine with each injector, in a container, and all seem equal. The MPS, I set it to what it was origianly, per measuring with a caliper and counting the threads. Valve adjustment should be good (as of two years ago, I had engine out and covers off). Has fresh oil and filter and added a few gallons of gas to basicly an empty tank. Fuel going through filter seems like it's darker but consistant. I've tried moving the timing around with no difference. Wet plugs appear to be raw fuel. Two years ago, I would start it and it seem to run good but died after a few seconds. Culprit was the MPS. But, it got put on the back burner, other projects came in. Now, two years later and the engine has been out of the car (Wires and hoses off).
Things I need to do: Check cold start injector, let engine warm up a lot longer, compression test with open throttle and warm engine (last time was cold and closed throttle). Watch the spray pattern for each injector. I'll try timing but not sure with a blubbering engine.
It does seem like it's related to the 1 and 3 injectors. But, I'll try and sort out the basics first. Thanks for all the input and valubale knowledge. Hopefully, an update soon....
Check the trigger points and wiring to them in the distributor. A problem with one pair of injectors not firing is probably related to the trigger points.
Update: Today, I started doing some of the things suggested. I pulled two left injectors out and had my wife crank the engine while I watched them. The spray pattern looked perfect and equal on both injectors. Remember, one was on the wet plug cylinder and the other was on the black carbon cylinder. I also cleaned all the plugs and reinstalled to get the engine warm for another compression test. I decided to put the plugs that were black in the cylinders that had the wet plugs. I ran the engine for a few minutes, (won't idle so it didn't get to warm), then took out the plugs. NOW!!! The plugs that were black, are now wet and the wet plugs are now black. Anyway, went ahead with compression, with throttle open, and the lower numbers came up a little. The higher numbers stayed close to the same.
But, I think I will go buy new plugs and wires and see what happens.
Thanks for the input and I'll update when I get a result.
Another Update:
I put in new plugs and still runs rough but "all" plugs black with carbon now. I then, leaned out the fuel pressure regulator all the way, so the adjusting screw is almost falling out. The car runs much better but plugs still black. I set the timing at between 2500 and 3000, on the red line. I was doing it alone so, holding the timing light with crossed arms, holding the throttle open, setting the light down, move dizzy, picking up light so it's "close". I checked the cold start injector for leaking. Bone dry. Did I forget anything?
I think it will run perfect if I could just get it leaned out more. Maybe, bad fuel pressure regulator? Wrong fuel pump?
Anyway, that's were I'm at. Any thoughts? Thanks for reading....
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