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Posted by: 930cabman May 17 2021, 06:15 PM

I can find no easy way to turn the engine in small increments as needed to adjust valves, static spark timing, etc. Spark plugs removed to relieve compression of course. It seems to make sense to cut a small ( 3/8 x 1/2") slot in the bell housing to allow for a screwdriver to engage with the ring gear for small adjustments.

Have a fallen off my rocker?

thanks

Posted by: ClayPerrine May 17 2021, 08:43 PM

Use a 13mm socket on an extension in the center of the fan. Or just reach down and grab the fan pulley and turn. If the plugs are out and it is in neutral it should be easy to turn that way.

Clay

Posted by: rgalla9146 May 17 2021, 08:59 PM

4 cyl. ?
Plugs out
trans in 1st gear
one rear wheel prevented from turning by any method you can devise
rotate other rear wheel....engine turns
Adjusting valves ? when the valves on one side are moving in opposite directions
as you rotate the tire, the valves on the opposite cylinder are in correct position to
adjust valves. The factory under car method.
There is a factory tool to set the Ebrake on one rear caliper at a time....just for this operation.
Rory

Posted by: rjames May 17 2021, 09:04 PM

It wouldn't work for adjusting the valves, but for static timing I've gotten pretty good at being able to have one hand in the the engine compartment, and with the car in 5th gear and on flat pavement, nudging the car forward or backwards to turn the engine.

Posted by: 930cabman May 18 2021, 04:04 AM

The engine is on the test bench (and runs), I am not happy with the hex rod twin Weber linkage setup, but looking to modify or spring for the CSP system when it comes available. I have not tried to turn the 13mm bolt on the fan, but will give it a try

Thank you

Yes, 4 cylinder

Posted by: Superhawk996 May 18 2021, 06:10 AM

Note on turning crank nose / fan hub bolt. Turn in clockwise (tightening) direction (toward driver side).

You don't want to loosen the hub inadvertently.

As Clay mentioned, fan pulley gives you a nice grip and some mechanical advantage over use of the center hub nut.

Posted by: GregAmy May 18 2021, 06:53 AM

Word of warning...that 13mm hub bolt is not designed for the amount of torque that is required to turn an engine, even with plugs out. And, if torqued too much, it is very likely to snap off.

That would make for A Bad Day.

Posted by: brant May 18 2021, 09:56 AM

There is also an $9 remote starter switch from flaps...
I use mine every single valve adjustment.

cutting the bellhousing is not a good solution for this problem.

Posted by: SirAndy May 18 2021, 11:03 AM

As said above, put the rear in the air, car in gear, lock one wheel (with a bar etc) and turn the other ...

Posted by: 930cabman May 18 2021, 12:14 PM

Thanks Andy, but in this case the engine/tranny are on a bench for testing. In the future I will use your method when everything is assembled.

Posted by: 930cabman May 18 2021, 12:18 PM

My initial thought, a broken 8mm bolt in the crank would not be a good day. I might go for a small slot in the bell housing

Posted by: Mark Henry May 18 2021, 01:00 PM

If the engine is out I would re-mark the fan so it's easier for us old farts to read. I also add a BDC mark.

Posted by: GregAmy May 18 2021, 01:03 PM

Use a prybar in the starter hole. Piece o' cake to R&R the starter, especially on the bench.

Posted by: 930cabman May 18 2021, 01:12 PM

Yes, that's part of the plan to index the fan perimeter.

Posted by: 930cabman May 18 2021, 01:13 PM

Greg,
Exactly, thank you.

Posted by: VaccaRabite May 18 2021, 01:43 PM

I've done a good bit of playing with engines on the test stand.

With the plugs out and engine out of the car, the engine is fairly easy to rotate by grabbing the "fan" belt and pulling that to rotate the crank. If the fan belt is off I have also just grabbed the fan and rotated it. DO NOT try to wedge a screwdriver into the fan vanes and turn it that way. That is how the fan vanes break - though this was a very common way to do it "back in the day."

I've also taken the dog house and fan off and used a bar between the bolts to rotate the engine that way - but that's more when I was setting pushrod geometry. You can get a lot of control over rotation doing it this way though.

The flange bolt on the nose of the hub is tempting to put a wrench on and turn it. If this bolt breaks for some reason, its a pain in the butt to extract. I'm not sure my way is any better, but its worked for me.

Zach

Posted by: 930cabman May 22 2021, 05:46 PM

I ended up installing the alternator with associated tin. The engine can easily be moved in small increments with a crescent wrench on the alternator pulley nut, clockwise of course.

Posted by: Spoke May 23 2021, 07:14 AM

If on the test bench, assuming the alternator is attached, use the center bolt of the alternator pulley to turn the engine.