During my long road trip (~2300 miles) I had some weird electrical problems pop up.
The first thing I noticed was that the spedometer needle was bouncing up and down a few mph at a constant pulse. At first I thought it was dying on me but now I think it has to do with other things.
Then much later on I relalized my signal lights on the passenger side weren't working at all. Checked bulbs, fuses and tried again and then I noticed other problems. My brake light started working after never working before... except it would start flashing along with the signal light indicator. One brake light was really bright. Sometimes one rear light wouldn't work. Sometimes my reverse lights would be stuck on when the headlight knob was either 1/2 way out or full out. The hazard lights would work randomly. The gas and speedometer gauges would bounce. There are probably other things that I forgot about.
Anyway, all those weird things started happening then everything started working again a few hours later. Then the next day it went back to not working properly.
I'm guessing it is a grounding issue but I have no idea what to look for. It rained a lot while traveling. I'm wondering if maybe something got wet and screwed things up?
Any suggestions?
Thanks
QUOTE (#1RAGE @ Jul 25 2005, 03:44 AM) |
I'm guessing it is a grounding issue but I have no idea what to look for. It rained a lot while traveling. I'm wondering if maybe something got wet and screwed things up? |
I'm pretty sure Dave Darling can tell you exactly but.......... the speedo needle jumping up and down is a fuse thing. Your lights that started working when they didn't before is relate to the same fuse thing. Also, what happened to me, was that I didn't have the proper light bulbs in the rear light housings. Not saying that you have the same problem but just check to be sure. It took me a while and a lot of cursing to figure out that in the end I had the wrong bulbs in. Bulbs were good,,,, just not the right ones. The wrong bulbs in any of the sockets will cause every other lights to malfunction.
Good luck. And congrats on the long trip. How was the West?? Any pics??
Cheers, Dominic.
speedo is cable driven....fuses have no effect on it
QUOTE (bd1308 @ Jul 25 2005, 06:33 AM) |
speedo is cable driven....fuses have no effect on it |
Speedo bouncing could be cable bind. Check and make sure your cables aren't crossed in the tunnel. Also check the connection at the tranny and make sure that everything sealed up tight and clean.
I found I solved a lot of electrical gremlins by upgrading my fuse panel to the one offered by Engman and I believe JWest Engineering. Chase down all of your grounds. I spent a couple of hours and started at the drivers front corner and disconnected every shared ground and cleaned it all up with a wire brush. Not just the ground connectors but the lugs on the body as well. If this is only happening when it's wet out check and make sure that your windshield is leaking onto the fuse panel.
Good luck and keep us posted.
My best,
Mike D.
OOPS!!
That's right. I was thinking of the rpm needle. When IT bounces it is due to a fuse.
QUOTE (Tab914 @ Jul 26 2005, 04:57 PM) |
When IT bounces it is due to a fuse. |
I've seen the speedo needle bounce due to the inner cable binding
because the cable dropped down and landed on the heat exchanger
or header. Its fairly obvious, looks for the melted spot
on the cable.
--- bill
QUOTE (Tab914 @ Jul 26 2005, 06:57 PM) |
OOPS!! That's right. I was thinking of the rpm needle. When IT bounces it is due to a fuse. |
QUOTE (gfulcher @ Jul 27 2005, 05:58 AM) | ||
My understanding of the bouncing Tach wasn't due to a fuse problem, but a Diode problem.. I've heard of a number of folks installing a diode in-line, which basically acts as a check-valve, allowing voltage to only go in one direction. The bouncing needle is the net result of a +/- fluctuation in voltage. At least that's what I recall... And I don't know any more specifics... Where's my beer?... Oh.. I MEAN COFFEE! (it's early) -greg- |
a bad #8 can cause the following issues. jumpy/ bouncy tach, low reading fuel gauge, and the alternator light to come on. then when you push the brake pedle the tach and fuel will dive to no reading at all.
k
Bouncing tach can also be from a simple loose or corroded connection to the terminal on the coil.
The other behaviors point to bad connections (corroded terminals, wrong bulbs, bulbs in incorrectly, or bad ground) at the taillights. Did you take on much water in the rear trunk? Might wanna pull the carpet & pad back for a little air-dry. I can NOT prevent water coming in around the lights (I think). I know it gets wet back there after driving in rain. I also know that my various poor connections at the taillights caused many peculiar and seemingly unrelated electrical problems. Good luck!
take the carpet and pad out of the trunk and use it for a tapestry in the garage.
k
QUOTE (rhodyguy @ Jul 27 2005, 05:52 AM) |
take the carpet and pad out of the trunk and use it for a tapestry in the garage. k |
#1rage,
The periodic bounce of the speedo needle is likely a defective cable. The other problems are most likely misconnections at the tail light housing terminals, believe me. First thing, make sure that your wire colors and connections are as indicated in this drawing. Then evaluate your blinker, brake light and parking light functions. I am sure you will find that things seem to be working correctly.
Attached image(s)
look at the spade connectors on the back lights- blast 'em with contact cleaner, scrape the female connectors with a knife or pick (ouch), sand on the male ones(poor thing- all flat like that).
gfulcher, bd1308,
If you have an irregular bounce of the tach needle, I have your fix, $30.00 including
shipping.
Tach repair module:
Oops! Here is the module:
Attached image(s)
if the brake lights are on all the time i would suspect the switch near the gas pedle first. check adjusment as per haynes. how difficult is the repair module to install?
k
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