Hey all - not sure if you all were aware that I have been in the middle of a conversion build since last year. Well the time finally came, or should I say a fire under my butt, to get me to push for a completion. By completion I mean a running/driving 6. Quick back story. Bought the car from a member 74 2.0. Already had glass flares, 5 lug, and an overheating engine. Dropped that out as I had a 2.7 waiting to be finished. Collected parts for the engine. Collected parts for the conversion. Sat back and waited for it to build itself, it didn't. Finally bought my tix for Okteenerfest so now I'm forced to get it done in time. I recently posted up an extensive to do list.
She won't be a show winner, but she may just get me there.
Here is the current state of affairs.
2.7 - ITB twin plug EFI
Yup! definitely grabbed the wrong hole saw 3" (should have been 2.5") smh
Have to address this rust I cut out before I can mount the tank.
Nice powerplant! Good luck with the project.
Sounds like a good opportunity to use some fuel line tubing for edge protection and visual bling. Some may use other material for bling but it's bling enough for me and my build as well!
That engine even looks fast!
I hope you are able to finish it in time Nick.
Thanks Bob.
Some morning welding. It ain't pretty, but it will do. It started out so nice. I am at most just below average welder lol. If the metal is thick, I'm good. Maybe because of the MIG. What settings are you all running? It's an Eastwood 135 MIG. That's why the invented grinders right? 1 more patch panel and the welding should be done for now.
Burn through and difficult location.
Nice! Whose throttle bodies are those? I just got the RHD's but have not started that project yet.
They are the old triumph triple speed ITB's.
They are/were sold through X-Factory (Al Kosmal), but I think he has now moved to the RHD.
What a nice engine
Antoine
Wow, pretty ambitious!
Lots of looooong nights ahead, but looks like she will be worth it.
Trying to catch OptimusGlen , getting the engine closer to a startup. Today will hopefully be a productive day in getting the last bit of welding done and the tank installed.
Nick, the engine looks great. Good luck with the conversion.
I hope you make your goal. The engine looks great
Thanks for the encouragement all.
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=19709 - yes please.
He is sending me some block off plates for my tin, some cabin caps like he just posted and the half pulley (95mm) for my fan.
Love to see everyone finishing up these projects. Most of us started around the same time including Brent, Glen, Dion and now Nick. Very cool
Got the "brake thingy" loosely mounted. If anyone was wondering I did have my regulator mounted closer to the 6 mount. PMB hooked me up with early lines, the T fitting, a cap for the rear port, but alas no banjo bolt and washers. I put up the Bat signal in the parts section if anyone has those they can ship out. Also, I am either looking for the 90 fitting and or the small coupler behind the FW so I can splice these 2 lines together. I'm surprised PMB has not come up with a simple pre-bent conversion line that mounts to the coupler behind the FW and this older mounting location.
I mounted it with Riv Nuts, man they are great. Next onto the return fuel line thingy.
Updates:
I haven't really shown any picture progress as I have been working on figuring out the wiring for this EFI. I have the wiring pretty much done and am getting the final touches done for the engine for the test run.
Replace RMS - I don't like the look of the new boogered up one.
Install flywheel
Install clutch/PP
Run fuel line to FPR and then to Jerry can
Run fuel line to fuel pump and mount it somewhere
Run oil lines to 911 oil tank dangling from bar
Hook in all wires (MS2, Alt, Starter, Fuel Pump)
Make a switch to simulate ignition
Make a push button starter
Mate 901 tranny half to engine
Install starter
Install belt
Go! hopefully
Totally bad ass Nick. Eternally jealous of that motor. Twin plug + ITB just sounds cool.
Give me a holler if you need an extra set of hands installing it or anything.
Falling inline with @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=19709 I might be having this engines first attempt at a startup tomorrow. I was planning to use a spare 911 oil tank, but I don't have a 30mm to AN12 fitting to accomplish that. So the 914-6 will need to be rigged up instead. Currently hooked to a spare 901 tranny.
Woooo!
Hope it goes well!
Are you on Instagram? I'll be doing some updates and videos as the day progresses.
@glen_in_the_garage
Glen I just followed you sweet vid of you driving, i can't wait to hit that milestone.
Update time:
I was able to turn the engine over via the starter tonight. I have never heard the engine turn over without me cranking on it so this was huge! I dumped some oil out the front after forgetting to plug the T-stat hole with a T-stat sensor
I had to perform some checks regarding sensors and black magic of the EFI. Hopefully the chicken offering and beer will allow the arts to start this monster tomorrow.
Currently had to hook up the 6 oil tank as my 911 one needed a 30mm to AN12 which I could not wait for. I sent some final questions to Al. If everything checks out I'll add some fuel and ready the fire extinguishers mid day tomorrow.
I'll be glad to get my garage back in order and clean up this mobile test stand.
Oh one last great thing. The engine was able to build enough pressure to turn off the idiot light
Congratulations on the engine coming up healthy, big moment. Thanks for the updates.
Chasing some wiring issues as the injectors are not passing the test. Also it appears my fuse block is defective as it is providing power to all posts even when the fuses are removed, while less I would expect no power. I also developed a small leak out of the back of the cam tower where a clewett camshaft position sensor was installed. I don't need it anymore with this setup so I am thinking of removing and putting whatever cover goes in that spot.
Cool updates! Keep it up!
Was hoping to throw some fuel in for a first start, but am currently waiting for tech support to figure out why the injector is not firing. I have uploaded the tune, data logs, and wiring diagram in hopes that something can be found.
I'll start focusing my efforts on getting the car ready for the engine:
Task list
Install Tangerine return fuel line (PO only did 1 as it was carb'd)
-watch Ian's vid again
-remove fuel tank
-feed line through
-While in there replace wiper motor and hopefully get that working or it's RAIN-X
Install newly purchased brake regulator that has the Unicorn Banjo bolt...smdh
Bleed brakes
Grind away ugly welds and weld in piece of of firewall - this should complete the welding...for now anyway
Cut last hole for oil tank
Install shift bushing
Install new clutch cable
Install new Patrick Motorsports throttle cable
Reinstall most of the interior
Got a little bit done while waiting on troubleshooting steps
Not pretty with that S bend but at least this part is fixed. 73 and up cars are really not geared for 6 conversion. My main harness, it is totally in the way of the mount.
With the engine awaiting a Microsquirt brain, swapping out the non working MS2, I decided to get some other items completed.
First was the removal of the Tank to gain access to the wiper motor. It also allowed me to follow @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=18749 's video (thanks!) on the Tangerine Racing Fuel line install. The supply line is already present. So I just needed to install the return, which I didn't realize was a smaller line. Got that in without too much trouble. The wiper motor came out with a little struggle and I realized why. There is a vibration stud attached to it. It is broke and now I am wondering if it is needed or it can wait until I redo the dash some years later.
Broken vibration mount
Today and yesterday were spending days. After getting the tank out I decided to replace some of the things I wasn't going to address for awhile. Rubber grommets for the wiper motor, washer nozzles, fresh air box hoses, fresh air box gasket,...
Anyway another big purchase I wasn't planning on making were rear brake calipers. When I had the chance to drive the car a little last year the brakes seemed fine. The car stopped when I pressed the pedal. Since I had to open the system to relocate the brake regulator I needed to bleed them again. Unfortunately the lower bleeder on my red (ew) caliper passenger side broke So it was a call to PMB. At last years Aircooled vintage swap meet I was the lucky winner of a set of brake calipers done by PMB. This will come in hand especially after braking the bleeder. I thought it would be a quick fix, but PMB is currently swamped with a 3 week turn around. That would put me right at Okteenerfest. I sent out the Bat Signal and Perry has a set of NOS ones. Not cheap, but at least they will arrive before PMB can restore these ones.
Going back to my S-bend to the regulator I could not get it to stop leaking at the coupler. I am thinking the coupler is too long and the bolts cannot secure the flare against the inside enough. I just removed it and will use some of the old line to create a longer piece that is connected just inside the firewall. Hopefully that will do the trick.
I spent a lot of the day cleaning the trans. I used brake clean, oven cleaner, simple green and a power washer. It needs a minor cleanup in the bell housing and then I can change the oil and put the fork, bearing, and bushings back on.
I was able to fix a trunk plague since I purchased the car. It suffered from rust fairly badly on the passenger side and as a result the hinge pivot broke free from its welds. I cleaned up the remaining spot welds and used 1 of the 2 JWest hinges that came with the car. Install was not too bad. If I have enough time I will install craigs (camp914) shock kit as the torsion bars are no longer on.
I got the working wiper motor hooked up and briefly gave it a go. Everything seemed to function. I will know more once the 914Rubber parts are delivered Thursday.
Removed the old throttle cable and installed Patrick MS's 914-6 one.
So things are progressing towards the goal of making the fest. The lingering engine no start is a huge concern. Al sent a new Microsquirt brain to me today. Hopefully that is what the issue is and I can get a first start this weekend. If I can get the engine tuned outside the car by the 9th and installed by the 16th it will give me 1 week to drive around and test before the big drive. Fingers crossed.
I'll keep my fingers crossed for you! I'm curious if it is the brain, I was hoping they were reliable. Where did you decide to mount the brain? I will need to start my efi install maybe this winter...
Mine are crossed as well. For both(MS2/Microsquirt) I was going to put them behind the passenger seat.
Wiper motor - 1 Me - 0
Fresh air box - 1 Me - 1 - after recuperating I got back at it and got it in.
I have given up on the wiper for now. It will be RainX if I can finish in time. I had washed everything in oil, tested the motor, tested the arms moving. Kept everything loose and once I got it all buttoned up I realized why I had to keep it loose. The pass. side shaft wanted to twist the threads where as the driver just wanted to move inside like it is supposed to. In order to properly oil and restore this unit, one needs to take the clip off and remove the center pivot from the threaded shaft thereby exposing whatever rust has gotten inside to bind it up. On the bench it looks great, but if you tighten the large nuts it binds, that's because this underlying issue. So while I could remove and refresh for the 3rd time I was not going to have time to diagnose why it always wanted to be on. If the car was on the wipers wanted to also be on. The wiring was correct so something must be shorted together or its something in the wiper stalk. Anyway too much time wasted on this so maybe later
Managed to get the clutch arm rebushed and greased. New bearing is on. Just need to drain the tranny and add new oil and it is ready to be put back on the engine.
The airbox now has a non over sprayed grill and a new seal from 914Rubber. I needed to unbolt the wiper assembly to get it to fit. What a pain it was to get the two 10mm back in. I had some left over Skeet from my 911 back date project so I halved it and put that on both sides going to the blend valves. The hose I took off no longer had flex. They were statues that crumbled when flexed.
Go for it pal! Nothing like a deadline to move things along. Glad the fuel line install video helped. Did you also use the tips and tricks in the airbox one? That first start will put a permagrin on your face. I’m still smiling from mine. Keep it up. We’re all pulling for ya!
I think I did see that tips and tricks vid, need to go rewatch it.
Tonight's agenda
Microsquirt arrived!!! Time to get wiring.
Bend up a brake line
Remove driver caliper
Fill tyranny back up - done!
Ok the euro brake line from Napa is in place. It's a little too long, but that just means it has extra cool waves in it. PMB should make this conversion line.
Microsquirt is hooked in! I had it hooked up late last night (12AM) fired it off and had no RPM signal. I had the injectors now working but lost engine speed. What a trade off. The MS2 is being shipped back to DIY to test and diagnose. I spent most of the day working with Al back and forth on things to check and try. Eventually he found the wire that needed to be in place and my latest start test was successful. So now I have injectors firing, registering RPMs, temp, MAP, everything!!! I fixed the oil leaking from the rear cam tower - PO marred the surround getting the old cap out for the CPS from clewett. I'm not using that so stock cap went back in and sealed. Unfortunately 2 new leaks developed. 1 at the front which looks like the intermediate shaft cover, but I didn't see any from it only below it where the case meets. 2nd one is from below the cam tower. I had noticed a crack which looked to already have had some type of fix. I even added more JB weld to it hoping to reinforce. I'm surprised Ollie's did not mention/fix this, but maybe the PO did it when installing the Cam cases. In any case this might be one I just have to live with. Hopefully it won't leak more when the engine was gone through a heat cycle.
Tomorrow will be the day I finally get to throw some fuel and fire this baby up. Less than 3 weeks to go. 1 week to tune it, 1 week to get it in and button up all the loose ends. Less than a week to take it on a long trip to ensure no breakage. We are cutting it close.
Man I still have a leak under my intermediate shaft cover. Dropped my motor to R&R it and its still there. It's not terrible but kinda bumms me out on a fresh new engine.
Nice to see the progress!
So I added the tensioner lines to that list. I put new washers and o-rings. I was able to tighten the banjo bolt so hopefully that will stop it. For the center case below the IMS cover I'm just going to let it go. Then I will never have to change the oil it will just keep recycling
BIG NEWS! She's a runner!!! Got some fuel logistics knocked out this morning. Had her running for about a minute before needing to go run some errands. If I can get a chance tonight I will try to run it a bit longer and at least sync each ITB. It sounds so good without the muffler, maybe I'll just run straight pipes. @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9892 how much will your muffler cut down on your headers as far as sound? I think I went for the quiet, but now I want it mean LOL
Definitely forgot to hook the Alt back up before this vid. She was running off the batt...
https://youtu.be/gSnSXk1Pwac
19 days and counting
Congrats! Like to see it coming together.
I don't recall what system you bought but I think ultimately you will want it on there.
Congrats!
Getting down to crunch time with so much still to do.
I have been putting off welding the last little piece, I think I need to get that in by tomorrow so I can put in the seals and start to move the engine into its resting place. I have been working on tuning the engine with Al and odds and ends. The front end is pretty much squared away with the tank back in and new fuel lines running up to it. My driver turn signal has some grounding issue or an issue with the holder that is making a bad connection. It works but only on the low circuit not the brighter one.
I have the new GT gauges almost fully in. The speedo was not touched, but the 10k tach is in and all wired up. It should work with the EDIS as I used one from a 74 and it had no problems with the signal. I needed to run a wire for the oil temp. I ended up using the console gauge temp wire for oil pressure. They final wiring will be done once the engine is in. I got the last hole cut for the oil tank and will begin to move it over in a day or 2.
Bucket list of things that are still lingering with 2 weeks and 2 days to go:
Install engine tin
Install oil tank
Install clutch
Install transmission
Hook up accelerator and clutch cable
Cut last plate to be welded in
weld in last plate
Install rear calipers
Bleed brakes
Run wires for ECU in trunk
Install engine mount
Install engine seal
Install engine
Run oil lines
Install fuel filter/fuel pump/fuel lines in engine bay
Install seats and backpad
Hi Nick - looking good. You're probably too busy to answer but if not too busy, can you please tell me what fuel injectors you are using on your triumph itb's? Also, I'm chasing an aluminium fuel rail to replace one of my plastic ones - you don't have one left over by any chance?
Thanks
Dave
Australia
Hey Dave, I'll have to check with Al from X-Factory, not sure which ones were put in.
Update time - I'm 2 days behind schedule. I have not started to move the engine into the bay as I'm still trying to tune the non load. Hopefully another day I should have it. I start to here a tapping coming from the 1/2/3 side as the engine warms. Might need to double check the valves. If all good then, maybe it will go away...or hopefully its not harmful.
The last bit of welding is done (for now - this car is a shit box). This might become just a track car, even though I don't race. That's ok it has enough bling to cover up all the eye sores. Like this:
GT Gauges
Major things that need to be done this week
-Trans to engine - don't forget clutch
-Install oil tank
-Run oil lines
-Hook up all wiring
-Install fuel pump
-Hook up cables (speedo, clutch, throttle)
If I can have the engine running in the car by Thursday I'm in pretty decent shape. Big IF
GT Gauges looking good!! Getting close......
- Tony
Make sure you put the lower oil line on the tank before you put the tank in the fender
Thanks Perry. I put the fitting on, but did not think to attach the hose.
Oil tank in!
Trans mated!
Let's get this bitch installed!
Run oil lines - partially done
Run wires for ECU - partially done
Engine tin - partially done
Engine seal installed
Backpad installed
Engine mount installed
Install engine
Connect drive shafts
Connect shift linkage
Tune.....
The engine is leaking a bit of oil while running. I think it is the camshaft seal. It was either not installed correctly or it is something else. A 20 minute run probably drops about a tablespoon. That is a project for winter, trying to get this down the road.
And then there was a 6. Engine is bolted in. I made my goal of having it in a week before the fest. Still plenty to do.
Hook up fuel lines
Hook up all wires
Mount main ECU
Connect throttle
Connect drive shafts
Connect clutch cable
Connect speedo cable
Fix E brake - nope not this one, in gear it is
Install shifter linkage
Install muffler
Install seat, maybe 2
Drive and tune
Come on @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=6113 M why do you have to point these things out, lol. Ok let me check factorial pics for the correct mounting. I only put it back in the way it came out
Looks amazing! Great progress. I had my trans hardware upside down for about 8 months and had no idea... you aren't alone.
nice work!!
Fast work Nick! Getting there.
Trans mounts should be this way…..
Attached thumbnail(s)
Thanks for the support guys
Axles reconnected
Clutch cable installed (need to adjust)
Speedo cable installed
Bracket made to offset linkage more than PMS - installed
Oil lines made and routed/installed
Onto the wiring
Nice work, that is a sick engine!
It is going to sound awesome with those ITBs...
Good luck getting it all sorted out.
John
Go Nick! Go Nick! Go Nick!!
Looks like some midnight oil will be burned.
Did you get the calipers?
Thanks Perry I did. They are on, bled, and adjusted.
If I can get it all wired up tonight I'm in great shape.
Engine is installed.
Wiring is complete.
Lost all the gears - fixed that with Dr Evils post.
Clutch adjusted.
Rear wheels back on.
VW VDO fuel gauge installed.
Need to install at least 1 seat.
She's finally a runner in the car.
Almost ready for its first voyage under a different power plant since last year. Need to tune under load and take it on a 3 hr trip to ensure no bugs.
Got 3 days left...
Cutting it close my man!
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=18493 - that is the plan. If it makes it there that's a different story. My wife keeps telling me to trailer it down, but what's the fun in that
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=19709 - I know right. I wish I had one more week to tune it better.
EDIT - Driver seat is in, readjuster shifter as I realized I still didn't have all my gears. Replaced driver blinker with a non-corroded one, works 1,000x better, Rear wheels torqued to spec. Ready for flight.
Thanks for the updates - please keep us posted!
Question - assume you install the oil tank without any fittings, fasten it in place and then the oil console and filler neck etc go on, yes?
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=18763
looking good sure hope we see you there, i was in the same situation this weekend, just did my start up and break in run on Saturday !! there are going to be a couple cars there this week with pretty fresh motor installs. i have not yet dialed in my tune yet, idle is high but temps are good , i also am hoping to drive there, see you thursday!!
If you can get it there, you’ll find plenty of help
This sounds like me in 2019.
I got my 914-6 4.0L running the day before I put it on the trailer to go to Okteenerfest.
Good luck.. and I will see you there!
Clay
Wow that was actually pretty fast. Good for you. Impressions?
Way to go!
Congrats!
How did it drive?!?
She drove decent, but could be better.
She sounds good. More tuning needs to be done. I'm going lean as I accelerate. A few more runs with the fuel table will hopefully clear that out. My brakes are sad. I have to double pump it to get a firm pedal. I did not touch the fronts as the reservoir never let air in. I believe they are 911 brakes up front. I'm pretty sure I have the rears (NOS) dialed in, but maybe they need more bleeding. They were adjusted to PMB spec.
I'm now debating the trailer idea. While it would be sweet to cruise down in it, I'd rather make it down to the event then break down. It's about 9 hrs. I'm stopping in Hendersonville on the way down Thursday. If I can get a good trip around here under the belt maybe I will drive the teener from there. Wish it was sorted as much as my 77 Targa. I could jump in that tomorrow without a tool kit and get to CA with no problems.
Great to see it out of the garage and in wild - that's some record time.
The seats work well with the silver!
Dropping some money to de-stress the experience is a good idea. You’ve made huge progress, why not enjoy it.
This will get to the same level as the Targa, just don’t force it.
Very excited to see what you have accomplished.
Felt a little defeated today. Can't seem to get the hesitation to go away after several fuel table updates. So there's that and I may need a front cooler after all. Temps were getting to 220 after about a 20 minute drive with ambient temps around 80. In my 77 targa with an 82 sc engine I can get on it hard and eventually it might get to 210. Has a trombone oil cooler.
Insult to injury I may have even more oil leaks now. The PO must have not followed Wayne's book very well. I see curil T at the seam and the case was refreshed by Ollie's, but it's leaking at the seam. I think the lower valve covers too which were glass plate sanded for trusses and are the later style covers. I'm going to pull off the rubber gasket and but the paper one on and see what that does.
Lastly went through and bled the brakes again. They might have gotten a little better but not what I would expect from NOS calipers and pads and 911 brakes up front.
Hopeful for a better report tomorrow
As a pick me up, I decided to install Camp 914's rear trunk strut kit. This is a lot better than the PVC pipe I was using. Also installed new 914Rubber rear trunk seal both center and outer. Lastly, installed some decent shape targa top holders as mine were broken off.
Next on the checklist is getting the passenger seat back together (which is actually the driver)
Try to address some, not all, of the leaks.
Clean up and get the car ready for the trailer
double post
More things to raise the spirit regarding how much oil is escaping while running.
Passenger (driver) seat is back in.
GT engine handle installed.
Items left:
Install engine lid. Wanted to convert it to a GT one, but ran out of time.
Just saw your oil leak video. Thinking a cam seal or rocker shaft on the one side then the other looks like the case thru bolt. That is an ugly proposition.. hope that's not the case.. I know mine has few leaks..
What goes in must come out, now I can fix those trans mounts
Oil leaks suck, I feel your pain.
So I think I found the culprit (fingers crossed) on the 4/5/6 side. A new gasket with locktite 574 and a recheck of the cam timing will hopefully seal that up.
Also, I wasn't thrilled about the run out on the rear rotors. I had them turned and they went out of spec so new Sebro's it is.
So I think I found the culprit (fingers crossed) on the 4/5/6 side. A new gasket with locktite 574 and a recheck of the cam timing will hopefully seal that up.
Also, I wasn't thrilled about the run out on the rear rotors. I had them turned and they went out of spec so new Sebro's it is.
Why did you use a coarse wood screw to pull the cam pin? You probably messed up the threads in it.
Just take the cap off a spark plug and use that. It is the exact same threads.
Clay
Only you would spot that Clay Hahahaha. I did have one and I mistakenly threw it out while cleaning. I had another spark plug, but the cap was glued or pressed on. I gently threaded it in only so far. It came out with no force all threads still in tact.
I'm slowly working on the 2.7 to address oil leaks. I decided to do the right thing and buy a different engine
This one needs two exhaust studs fixes and I'll perform a health check. Then it's onto some RHD ITBs from X-faktory.
Haven't updated this thread for awhile
Updates:
In talks of picking up some Zenith Carbs to simplify testing the 2.7 for leaks I ended up trading down? er sideways? I don't which way, but at least towards a drivable 914 again. So the ITB twin plug 2.7 is turning into a 73 2.4 carb'd engine. Leak down numbers were almost perfect. With it I needed to move away from FI setup.
So here is the new Fuel Pump almost fully installed.
Also got my GT lid finished, not perfect, but looks presentable.
New front bumper mounting as well. I didn't realize how much fiberglass sucks. I thought when I ripped off the weird shelf screwed to the front for the other fiberglass bumper it was because they didn't know what they were doing. Now, I see it was there to prevent the dip down in the center. Once I get something back in place it should look right. Also, mounted some fresh horns - but wiring is now preventing them from workie.
I love the short stroke engines, The 2.4, if I can pull it off will be the engine I run. Very cool build
Here is the 2.4 that will ship to me tomorrow.
Phil - I traded the one I started this thread with. Also sold the 1.8, that gets picked up Sunday. That black cyl is a 100 micron fuel filter. I picked it up as a reusable filter and the cb performance pump came with a mini pre filter so I decided to keep it. This should ensure the zeniths stay clear.
I got the new fuel system plumbed and ready. Ran a fused wire off number 8 fuse, ya know, for extra fuseage. Got rid of that horrid AC box. Which leaves me with a gapping hole that will receive a sheet of aluminum (temporarily). Also got my horns working so that's a good thing. Engine could be here tomorrow.
Engine is in!
First start video. Running good. Just need to hook all the cables back up, reattach shift rod, adjust clutch and throttle, reattach and torque axles, little tidying up and she should be good for her maiden voyage. Got to this point last year prior to Okteenerfest only to be stunted by some major oil leaks.
https://youtu.be/QRCoflEiHJg
Sounds pretty good! That much closer to driving!
Wow, she starts right up. You will have her back on the road in no time. Congratulations.
Looks great Nick,
Let me know if you want me to patch up/replace that front trunk pan this summer or when driving season is over. RD makes a nice replacement piece.
Awesome! Looking forward to first drive i bet
Way to go Nick! A good feeling for sure. Happy for ya.
Congrats, it's an awesome feeling when you get them to fire up.
Current state of things:
Tuning the engine has become a little bit of a nightmare. The 1,2,3 side puuuuurfect. The 4,5,6 not so much. I have had the Zenith on and off several times. I'm pretty good at it now lol. I have been working with Paul Abbot and Dave Chaney. Cyl 5 is going lean and I (we) can't figure out why. I have thoroughly cleaned all the galleries in the carb. It was time to throw in the towel on that one. I will be sending them to Dave to troubleshoot. In the mean time I picked up another set, funny enough that were fduval's that he bought from DaveO. Anyway, hopefully I can throw on the one side before sending the set out to Dave to see if that resolve my lean issue. When I traded for this engine is was said to be in excellent running condition. Not, sure if this lean issue was there before and never noticed OR something with the cleaning up process made it that way. Regardless, it needs to be corrected. I did however get to finally pull it back out of the garage. The last time was right before Okteenerfest last year. This different engine is also plagued with some oil leaks. These ones are minor. The 1,2,3 side dry. The 4,5,6 was wet. I just got some turbo valve covers today. Slightly milled the are that needed it and test fit. That should solve that, OH and removing a blue shop paper towel from the oil return. Oops! Luckily I checked that lower cover when I did. PO was grateful I found it. Just waiting for a gasket to arrive since the towel squeezed it and the gasket together deforming the gasket slightly. This explains the leak on that side.
I got the rear bumper fully in place and just need to reinstall the parking lights. The front bumper is also now fully attached. I needed to cut out some of the grill boxes as the QRS fiberglass bumper leaves an outline. If I didn't have fogs it probably would have taken a custom grill cover and be fine. I did have to shave the top of the 914rubber grill as it would not fit flush in the QRS fog light opening. This must be a QRS quality control issue as the opening should have been able to accommodate. No biggie and it looks fine. Not like the front end of my car is pristine with some accident decades ago.
Still need to throw a piece of sheet metal up front to cover the gaping hole left by the AC removal.
when running check exhaust temps on ex, at head,,,,cam timing on right side 180 out..??
It idles perfect and starts up easy.
I posted a vid of what happens around ~3600 RPM
https://youtu.be/1bsRBIivlUA
Take that leak, in fairness the old cover was most likely compromised due to the blue shop towel being pinched as well as just sitting in there. Thanks World for having pics of what to notch on the cover to get it to fit engine in situ.
Watched the video, sounds good!
Looks great.
So I got the carbs from fduval who bought them from DaveO. Looked them over, sprayed some cleaner through the passages, ported idle jets, squirters, vents over from the existing Zeniths. Didn't touch anything but the air bypass to make sure they were fully closed. Started up the car and...same issue. Cyl 5 is low on the STE and fluctuating alot. Popping at 3600 not there, but that could be mixture screw adjustment, possibly even the squirter adjustment. Anyway, I took it for a drive and seemed like it might have been a little better or it was just in my head. Still popping, still huge backfire out the exhaust on decel. Ok I need to pull this intake off and have a look at the gasket/spacer/gasket setup. I trust the guy I traded the engine with, but after seeing the towel closed in with the valve cover I was not sure what else might have been overlooked.
Well it just so happens that the cyl 5 was missing an extra gasket OR that 4 and 6 had an additional. Regardless, this had to be the problem.
I was elated. I scraped off the other 2 and took it to some glass and 150 grit sand paper. I was able to shave some off cyl 4 and 6 which will also help seal. Got it back on the car and swapped items back to the original carb since that seems like it had no issues. Started it up and she was running again with better numbers. I needed to open the air bypass just a minor amount if any to bring it up to cyl 4. I could tell almost immediately when I closed the air bypass all the way how the engine smoothed out. I was also able to remove the idle jet and it actually drop the RPM's down as it should. It was revving smoothly with no pops. The next test would be the butt dyno. Took her out and she was running good. No pops, no hesitation, no loud gunshot out the back on decel.
Here is a little vid I took
https://youtu.be/IjuVb0h1n0Q
She still needs some rear suspension addressing. The driver bushings are shot. 2 clicks up on the shock did not seem to raise the rear enough. I think I have a reverse rake. The brakes need a double pump to activate, air in the lines somewhere. I even used the motive bleeder. Front valence needs to be acquired. I have a narrow one, but need a wide one. For now though at least she runs and drives reliably?
Congratulations on finding and fixing that issue; glad she is running good now.
Haven't updated this thread in awhile. I'm not even sure I posted some of the updates like a new windshield and trim and swapping zeniths for PMOs. Anyway, those things happened and new sun visors. Also, she's on the chopping block...for sale (shamless plug). I made a thread in the for sale with some recent pics and a cold start vid. This nightmare dream can be yours
GLWS Nick!
You staying in the teener game?
Good luck Nick! The car looks awesome - especially the seats
Thanks guys.
Rob I will still be around, but the next adventure will be an early 911. I left once and came back, I'm sure I'll do it again.
Glad you found them Jared, they do look sweet.
Car is now on pcarmarket, low reserve, happy bidding
https://www.pcarmarket.com/auction/1974-porsche-914-4/
One last driving vid
https://youtu.be/jLud-QjHIgI
Looks like a really fun car for someone to snag! GLWA!
Thanks! If my low reserve is not met, I think i will part it out. Ill get a running 4 cyl and remove all the 6 stuff.
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=21666 - thanks for the kind words in the comments of the auction
You are most welcome, only fair since you’ve been a great member of the community here and over at pelican.
I hope it finds a home intact.
How can this thing not be sold already? Has the market softened that much? This is a solid buy for someone wanting a 914-6 conversion with quality parts and such a value
I 100% agree, if my bro wasn’t in the midst of installing a PMB 2.3i, he’d have been all over it.
I have not heard of PCAMarket. Bring a trailer, brings in stupid money for 914’s.
If the pcarmarket auction doesn't work out, bring a trailer did get back to me for a reserve right around where I feel comfortable letting it go for.
Reserve was met on the auction today. Car is headed to a collector in CA.
Closing the chapter on this venture, but not on being a part of this great group.
Congratulations Nick
Congrats Nick!
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