Hello all
New project. 1970, no rust other than surface rust from 38 years in the Arizona desert.
I am going to convert it to electric.
This is an upload test:
Electric!!?? What for?
Should be interesting. I found some car show about a company in Europe that converts classic cars to electric and on the episode I saw, they did a 914. I believe they used a Tesla motor. Anyone know the show I’m talking about? I can’t remember what it was called.
Anyway, would look forward to some documentation on your approach. Good luck!
Some photos of that particular 914 EV at https://www.instagram.com/classicretrofit/
I would like to more about the VW pick-up in foreground that looks like a project.
Looks like you have a great starting point for your build!
I'll be watching the progress on this one.
Good luck and keep the group posted!
Cool. Should be a cool build. Please try to keep track of the minutia since these are the little challenges that tend to get overlooked in a build. The big stuff is usually easy to find, but what brackets you made or places you had to cut etc. would be very helpful for the next person.
Interesting article on the realities of the EV movement 8/22/21
https://techcrunch.com/2021/08/22/the-tough-calculus-of-emissions-and-the-future-of-evs/
Personally I wouldn't convert a 50 year old Porsche that's increasing in value as is. There are much better newer commuter vehicles to choose from.
The 914 was built as light as possible using the thinnest sheet metal possible. Putting heavy batteries in places it wasn't designed for stresses the chassis. I've seen the cracks. Calling a 914 the perfect donor is a naive lie.
Or swap to a Subaru with a cat and be as clean as a new car without the pitfalls and costs of EV.
Keep good notes and post them here. I am pretty sure I will go the same way eventually.
So nobody else is going to comment on the split window single cab?
what's the story on that?
Pat are you the Pat that did BAE kit on your SC years ago on the bird board?
Congratulations on the new project, looks like a great start..especially being a desert car. I like the early cars - did the seller mention why it has a later front bumper?
.
Well, it had these bumpers on it. There was a pile of bumpers there, and I took these as being the nicest. I don't care about period correctness. I Actually have no idea what should be on it. I do need to find some better seats, and some fiberglass to replace the front and rear lids.
Don´t convert a 914 into a "coal driven" vehicle.
Give the guy a break-for those on the anti-coal train (understandable, though modern gasified coal burning is really quite clean), Florida is primarily NG power generation with lots of solar coming on in the next years.
Looking forward to seeing more of this project!!
Pats a good guy don't give him a hard time.
Still cracks me up how we applaud stuffing all kinds of crazy power plants into these cars but somehow EV is where the line is crossed.
I’m all for this project
I would like an electric 914 with a really light battery pack. 50 mile range would be enough for me.
I don't see where the OP stated they expect the same kind of range as a Tesla or OE ICE engine. Let's also remember that it takes about 103 lbs. of gasoline to provide an ICE 914 with its full range. That needs to be added to the math. Half the range and half the battery weight would make for a fun and useful car. The https://www.classicretrofit.com/blogs/news/classic-retrofit-porsche-914-ev-conversion-on-vintage-voltage is shooting for 150 mile range.
Just a reminder here is that we (914world.com) are not being very welcoming to Pat. Pat was just looking to share his ideas not looking for immediate feedback. He was just sharing
You guys are being dicks. Seriously, knock it off.
Keep it up and there will be Time Outs passed around like party favors.
ALL 914s with ALL drivetrains are welcome here. If you have a problem with it, just don't post. Post in the threads with drivetrains that you approve of.
Taking off the Admin hat....
This is really cool and I'm looking forward to watt you are going to do with this car!
Zach
There’s an electric conversion by one of our members here that lives close by to me. The car looks great and he drives it to work. Getting a 914 back on the road is a good thing, no matter what’s under the hood.
Whether we like it or not electric cars are the future, the sooner we all come to terms with it the better off we'll be. I imagine it will be like when people transitioned from horse/buggy to automobiles. Some day those of us who cling to ICE classic automobiles will be in the same boat that modern horse enthusiasts are in.
Excited to see the project progress.
Wasn't it Henry Ford who said, "If I'd asked people what they wanted they'd have said faster horses"! Electric is an improvement that will be refined plus you will have a back up emergency power plant in your garage should the electricity conk out.
After a minor modification,
My car goes VROOOOOOOOOM again after 24 years.
So, I'm thinking about batteries. Tesla has the laptop batteries in the frame, so the 1100# battery package is pretty low. I don't think we can approximate the weight/CG of a Tesla Model S with a converted 914. However, If I get some fiberglass deck lids, and limit the batteries to around 600#, I should be approximating the stock weight distribution. I don't know where the CG lies in a vertical plane on a 914. It would be great if someone has this info. I can only speculate that the handling will be adversely affected if the battery weight is higher up in the car. I believe an AC-50 motor is around 120#. I will still have the 914 transmission (we do like to shift, after all). Likely only need 2nd and 3rd. The AC induction motors torque up pretty well at low RPM with the proper controller.
I need to probably change the springs in the rear, possibly some bigger torsion bars in the front. I may be able to sneak a couple of battery modules into the engine bay.
So, it looks like the first order of business is to do an analysis of the weight distribution. We want the 914 to come out of the corners like a rocket, which ain't happening with a Type 4 VW engine.
BTW, I have a fish scale hanging in the garage, so I can weigh everything in and out. The car was like 1900# on a CAT scale, but a CAT scale is really not that accurate. I had to weight the SUV and the 914 together, and subtract off the weight of the SUV. Must be someone in the area with corner scales.
If I ever win the lottery, I am going to the Porsche special wish department with a flared 914 tub and asking them to put a Taycan drive train in it. Then I can show up at Parade and kick all the 911 butts in the AX.
If you look at the Taycan chassis without the body on it, it has a void between the batteries and the rear of the car used for the rear seat footwells. If you remove the void, it looks like it is the same length as a 914.
I think an electric 914 would be fun.
Clay
I had the car in storage for a few weeks. I did some measuring and determined I can fit five (5) Tesla 22kW modules in the car handily...three up front and two in back. Also decided that I'm going with a Hyper9 motor, the lower voltage variety, with dual shafts. I have not yet made up my mind about whether to use the extra shaft to drive an AC compressor. I may just go with an electric compressor.
As I am cleaning it up for paint, I have noticed that it must have been hit in front. A new front (bumper) section has been welded in...at least it was a nice job of repair. I am going for a lightweight, so I'm scraping the sound deadener out. I'm thinking I can get under 2000 Lb fairly easily, even with the 290 lb of batteries. It should come out of corners like a rocket.
Here's a list I made one day while waiting for a plane to take off. It’s not inclusive or accurate but may give you some ideas. Dropping 300lbs and adding an additional 600lbs for batteries will probably end you up in the weight range of a big six with much better weight distribution than all the guys putting big sixes in the back of their early 911’s.
10 - Firewall pad
10 - floor tar
60 - lids
10 - engine lid
5 - rockers
20 - glass bumpers
20 - targa top
5 - carpet
15 - exhaust
10 - Backpad
20 - air control
5 - door hardware
185
10 - Seat sliders
5 - interior padding
20 - headlights
10 - steel crossbar
10 - Heat flappers & lever
30 - battery and
5 - battery tray
265
20- Headers
310
Pedal board
Targa latches
Vent window & trim
Shortened sub dash
Sun visors
Glove box & ashtray
Trunk locks F & R
Glove box lock
Windshield wipers
Windshield washer
Trunk heat shield ?
Brake caliper shields
Radio & speakers
Engine lid latch & cable
Front trunk latch & cable
Front carpet board
Spare tire
Center tunnel covers
Shift knob
Antenna
Door cards
Door pocket
I watched a documentary where the scientists had a drone in flight, had some kind of malfunction and it hit the earth. Wasn't that high up. The battery burst into flames upon impact. And not just a small fire, the dirt was frozen so two guys grabbed a big rock and started smashing the battery pack that didn't want to go out. Tesla may have crash zones for this reason, if they don't they should. Are you going to use some type of fire suppression system? Cool project
Update, March 2022
Waiting for the motor, still. NetGain has no Hyper9's in the 144V variant available at the moment. It has been 10 weeks.
I do have the transaxle adapter frome EV West, which is really shiny and nice. As is the aluminum flywheel, and the Stage 2 Kennedy pressure plate. Transaxle is done...A-F-M-S-Z. I took out the X fifth gear, and put in a stock 914 5th although the electric car guys tell me I will be mostly running is 3rd or 4th.
I did see some Tesla Model S modules, which I will be using. The mounting is a bit different than what I had pictured, but it is certainly do-able. I can get three batteries in the front. one where the fuel tank was, and two under the stowage area for the targa top. There is still room where the battery tray was, and on the opposite side, where the D-Jet control unit was.But, I do have to get in a coolant unit fr the controller and batteries, and an AC unit. There seems to be room for fender well condensers.
I stripped all of the road grime off the bottom, wheel wells, everywhere. The wells are once again orange. It is cleaned, and undercoated with Second Skin Spectrum. Some of it got treated with osphophospate to prevent any future corrosion, and then coated with POR-15 and topcoat. I installed 80 mil sound deadener in the floors and door panels. I cut out the old battery tray...I won't need it, and it was the only area of the car which appeared to have any rust at all.
Car is totally stripped of any trim, glass, interior, brakes, pedals, everything. Should be fairly easy to paint now.
I have left everything stock, except where I cut the wiring harness, and I even left that so it would be easy to reconnect. Just in case anyone ever wants to put an underpowered smelly engine back in it.
Great article in Panorama about a 13-year-old young woman doing an EV conversion on a 76 914. To her (and her generation), EV's and EV conversions will be the norm, but she is also one of us since she also thinks a 914 "is really cool". I wish her luck, and looking forward to reading about the details of your conversion.
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=5175 did you see the electric 914 on BaT. It looks pretty well done.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1975-porsche-914-43/#comments-anchor
It might give you some ideas for your project.
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=23951
I did not, but I will check it out.
Pat
Ans if you look at the list provided we can even provide with a headlight delete option
Attached thumbnail(s)
We will talk in the near future. I still need door panels.
Short update: I brought the car to the painter yesterday. He said to grind the 40 year old Bondo off. It is all cracked, and would not make a good underlayment. Evidently, Bondo technology has come a long way in 40 years.
On the brighter side, my motor will be in in 3 weeks, supposedly.It was very nice of Karmann to put the oil line holes on either side of the floor pan (that is where the battery wires will go.
@shivers- No fire suppression system is planned. If I get a thermal runaway on the batteries, I jump out. I don't think there is a good way to put that sort of fire out in any onboard system.
@914e- I am trying to figure out a way to utilize the space on either side of the engine compartment for batteries. But, the batteries have to match the Tesla Model S modules to work properly (22.7V, 5.3kWh).
And, finally, did the 1970 have side marker lights? ( I suspect yes). The holes were filled in with 1979 Bondo.
The car goes to the paint shop on 6 June. I think we are going with Porsche Murano Green, from the 80's. Everything else will bedliner black.
Car weighs 1200 lb empty (it is around 570# in front and 630# in the rear), including the wheels, front and rear lids, rocker panels and targa top-no glass, no powertrain. no seats. I sanded all of the 40 year old bondo off, which was cracked. Undercoated everything with Second Skin Spectrum.
Car started out as orange. someone resprayed everything in blue. Tough getting all the blue painted areas prepped sufficiently for new paint.
Hi Patrick - Nicely done. Taking the extra time and effort to prepare the jams, trunks, engine bay, etc., will pay great dividends once painted as the new color will adhere nicely. Nothing worse than a color change when it gets a chip and you see the prior color(s) show through. BTW, I like Murano Green.
Short update: Got this from the painter today. Evidently there are a couple (at least) of Porsche Murano Green, so we came up with this instead. Everything not shiny and blue/green is bedliner.
That's a nice color!
Color looks great!
Quick progress report:
6 of the 7 Tesla modules are in. I managed to get two 2/0 wires in the tunnel.
Motor is mounted on the gearbox. I did install the Quiafe TBD. The charger is laid out, but I have to fab some brackets for it. No cooling system yet.
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=5175
what tow bar did you use? the one on the first post , picture of it hooked up . that step up is what they need to line up with a hitch, I got the Harbor Freight one but its flat and i am going to have to use a lowring drop hitch on the truck, or get a different tow bar like that.
Thanks,
Phil
PS, nice project, that paint looks great. In light of recent increase in prices but recent increase in interest of battery power conversions im not sure the value will be hurt by the conversion. Someone could always take it back to original. My son and i were going to do this about 12 years ago, thats why i bought my car, but we dident do it as the cost of batteries, LIPO at that time was rediculous and either way you would not even get 75 miles so it got restored back to original color etc. BUT he and i still have thought of doing this, maybe only to tub that had already been butchered .
Looking forward to seeing the culmination of your effort.
Phil, I got that hitch plate from 914Rubber. It accepts a Super Beetle tow bar. The 914Rubber plate is still on the car..bolts up to the stock torsion bar housing in front. The hitch is a Curt, and it is a 5" drop hitch that goes into the receiver on the car..So, the 914Rubber plate and the Super Beetle tow bar cost about $300; well worth it.
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=5175
Any updates?
Update:
Moving to NC in two weeks. Been getting the car ready to pull up to NC from Florida. I am going to flat tow it. I have a TOAD portable braking system for it.I'm debating the merits of putting the front and rear glass in first.
I had two battery boxes built up in Tampa. All seven Tesla modules are in, but not wired. I have them in pretty secure, so this little trip will be a good test.
Rear battery boxes with batteries are 125 Lb each, and the motor and controller are 139 Lb, so this works out fairly closely to the original 4 cylinder weight.
When I get the car up to Carolina, I'll go through the weights and corner weights. I am pretty sure that the car will spin like a top, and not roll over:)
Where in NC are you moving to?
Hi Doug, Rock Barn, in Conover.
Doubtful. It'll gain less than 200 lbs. and acquire rocket-like acceleration.
This is a really interesting project. Where are you $-wise on the cost of the electric components? I'm interested to see where this lines up with a six conversion or a Subaru conversion.
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=5610 :
I am at approximately $41k on this, everything. Cost of the car, shipping to FL, motor, batteries, every nut and bolt almost. Paint, new rubber and trim parts, total refresh.
Like you, I am curious where it lines up. I think my old 914 racer was about the same. The Hyper9 motor and 7 Tesla modules are about the same as a well built 2.7. I think a Suby conversion would be more.
Best of luck on the move!
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1435
Thanks!
BTW, I seemed to have made it to Conover, NC. Flat towed the 914 here from Florida.
Update, Decoration Day 2023.
Batteries are all in. 7 Tesla modules and 6 4s18 p 2170 cell packs I built for the lower voltage stuff. This way. I don't have to rob and power from the Tesla modules. 4 Tesla modules are astride the motor in the engine compartment, and three are in the front. Th 6 4s18p batteries are where the fuel tank was, and in the very from of the trunk. I got new CV's and booties from PMB, There is very little room for the axle shafts to clear the rear batteries. Frankly, I'm worried I may twist the shafts out and short the batteries.
More to follow...
I am rewiring the lighting at the moment. Don't need most of the existing electric or the 50 year old wiring, but I am keeping some of the wiring (it's in the tunnel).
Update 1 October 2023:
Rear battery boxes are in (rev 2 boxes, I didn't like the HV terminals next to the axle shafts)
Wiper motor system doesn't work, so I am looking for a good motor
Today, I'll try to get the fresh airbox in (there may be a battery in the way)
I have to get two batteries re-repaired from 057 Tech in Hickory (I have 0 V on two cell taps, which I don't think the BMS will like)
Corbeau seats are mounted on the sliding rails (I had to weld in a new bracket in the drivers side)
Wiring is a PITA
I ordered a cell tap validation tool from Orion (although I have been shaking the wiring out with a voltmeter)
I got a motorcycle radiator for the cooling system, and ordered a pump and more rubber fuel hose
Mounted the charger under the rear trunk, next to the transmission
More that I forgot at the moment
Pat
How close are the axles to the battery boxes that you are worried?
So long as your CV bolts are good and properly torqued, and you are using new schnorr washers, you should be in good shape. I don't think the axles can wobble or really twist. That much torque would break the CV or the transmission before the axles.
In a stock application the axles are near the heat exchangers and the shifter bar. On my car they are also near the aux ol cooler.
SO long as an axle does not break the CV and start flailing around, you should be good.
Zach
I lost two roll pins for the new CV joints (lobro). I'm going to make some new press fit pins, on my lathe, from a bit of steel.
And, I picked up a pump, mounted it under the rear trunk, by the radiator, It is so odd to have a radiator.
I have one Tesla module that has no voltage reading on cell taps 2 or 3. 057 Technology can fix these, but they seem to have stopped the battery operations, no one is at their shop; it's closed down. I can't get ahold of Jason (the former owner). I hate to have to fix this myself, but I will if I have to. It becomes a big problem with the BMS if I can't read these two cell groups.
I weighed the tub. 2100 with no windshield or rear glass, or Corbeau seats. Everything else is in…batteries, motor, wires.
I’ll corner weigh it after I look over the front suspension.
No such thing as a quiet sports car. Converting to electric will make the car heavy. Yes you will have instant torque, but you will sacrifice handling which is what the 914 is all about. By converting to electric you will end up with a fast turd
2100# is not a bad weight. My N6 is about that with a full tank.
Should make for a fun 100 mile round trip.
I converted a Boxster to EV and think that is a better option than a 914. Back in the day, an air cooled car was a good donor, but today plenty of cars to choose from.
The 914 isn't really built to hold a lot of weight, so yeah those V8 swaps are horrible, so I am thinking a v8 swap into my 914. But with a complete suspension swap too.
I already have another 2 EV projects.
There is a 914 EV on the Sacramento CL right now, is this a members car?
Only asking $18k and it has a Tesla motor.
https://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/d/sacramento-tesla-porsche-914/7690362519.html
Look forward to seeing the finished project!
weight on the proform scales:
2004 total, no driver, hoods, targa top, glass, one battery is out of the front (55 lb)
this is the first iteration, Now that I know how to work the scales and can get the car to stay on them, I can do the suspension.
FR 450
RR 508
FL 484
RL 562
not as heavy as some think
That's a matter of context.
My car will go 400 miles on a tank, which would get me out of town as fast as I want.
You've got an estimated 100 miles between breaks. 400 miles of battery would be much heavier.
I have found for me the drive around 2 hours and stop (breakfast, lunch, dinner, etc) and then drive 2-3 hours more to be the sweat spot for long drives in a old car. Still keeps things fun.
When I need to slog out long distance (not for fun) then a modern car with comfortable seats and all the tech makes the long days bearable .
john
How much range is unknown at this point. I am hoping for the best… I figure I weigh half as much as a Tesla and I have half as much energy storage.
Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)