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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ CV joint help needed please
Posted by: DRPHIL914 Sep 13 2021, 03:20 PM
so while installing the motor and transmission yesterday- and it seemed to go so smooth, the cv and axle got out of position, the inner must have gotten bumped and twisted , so i was just now trying to get the one that fell out back in , but also noticed they if i spin the axle the outer one is kind of off center as well, so now i am wondering if i am going to have to pull the whole axle to get these put back in the cage and on the axle?? seems like i will have to pull the whole assembly, to get them circlip off and put it all back together properly—-
pandora’s box here - opening a can of worms- i have to put it on the ground to take off the outer axle nut, then pull the shaft right? looks like there is not enough room to pull it with He in and that will have to be pulled too! - can i leave the other side all hooked up?
Advice please!!
Phil
Posted by: brant Sep 13 2021, 03:25 PM
I never pull the stud to get the cv shaft out
You can use the parking brake to loosen the 12 points and pull just the axle
Sounds like a good too me to disassemble. Wash. Inspect. Repack
Posted by: DRPHIL914 Sep 13 2021, 03:40 PM
I never pull the stud to get the cv shaft out
You can use the parking brake to loosen the 12 points and pull just the axle
Sounds like a good too me to disassemble. Wash. Inspect. Repack
ok, so lock parking break(just installed new cable, should grab good enough, loosen the 4 outer c12pt cv bolts, pull out cv etc?
Brant- thanks for the quick reply i would have gone the long way around this for sure!!!
Philip
Posted by: brant Sep 13 2021, 03:51 PM
yes....
and I have to loosen 2....
then take the brake off... spin the wheel 180... put the brake back on
and finally loosen the last 2
Posted by: DRPHIL914 Sep 13 2021, 04:29 PM
yes....
and I have to loosen 2....
then take the brake off... spin the wheel 180... put the brake back on
and finally loosen the last 2
problem- it pulled out without the outer joint, those pins are in tight so the shaft came along with the bearings and inner cage- how am i going to pull this outer part off it?
one step forward and 3 back
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Posted by: jcd914 Sep 13 2021, 04:40 PM
I would probably try to find a couple phillips screwdrivers or long pin punch or hardened rod that fit snug in the bolt hole of the outer race and see if I could wiggle the race loose.
Good luck
Jim
Posted by: DRPHIL914 Sep 13 2021, 05:02 PM
ok tried that no luck, looks like i am going to have to put the wheel on, drop the car and pull the axle nut then push the stub thru will that work?
i need a better diagram than what i have here in Haynes.
this really SUCKS!
Posted by: iankarr Sep 13 2021, 05:07 PM
Probably better at this point to just remove the castle nut and bang the stub axle out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7a5ACf2xK6Y&t=117s
Please forgive the crude quality. I think it was the first 914 video I ever made. A 20Volt battery powered impact wrench will be your friend.
And here's a video on how to refurbish the CV joints...made much more recently 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-5Xpug52Qw&t=277s
Posted by: brant Sep 13 2021, 05:23 PM
I use a long tire bar
With a slight bend in n the end
I always use that to pry sideways and loosen the two roll pins as I pull the outer
And with two cars/ one a race car that gets frequent cv service. I’ve never yet had to pull the stub axle
Posted by: DRPHIL914 Sep 13 2021, 06:06 PM
I use a long tire bar
With a slight bend in n the end
I always use that to pry sideways and loosen the two roll pins as I pull the outer
And with two cars/ one a race car that gets frequent cv service. I’ve never yet had to pull the stub axle
we’ll, i can see that, i pulled to jar on the outer, i was prying it h have a long bar just like you are describing, and the inner cage and balls just pulled right out and i think that’s because somehow in putting it up out of the way it got jammed and out of position- sucks- - well at this point i need to move forward- but i am done for tonight, the frustration of what should have been a 1/2 hour job to bold up the two inner CV’s to the trans wound up 3.5 hours of one cv hooked up, the other pulled out falling apart and a mess. i am running out of time- but i have to walk away at this point, - tomorrow i may put the tire on and try and remove the castle nut and push it out.
i did get the inner end reassembled back on the shaft .
the bearings are back in where they belong.
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Posted by: Superhawk996 Sep 13 2021, 06:08 PM
Probably better at this point to just remove the castle nut and bang the stub axle out.
But I have access to an impact gun.
However, theres is also minimal risk here is that you accidentally separate the rear wheel bearing races if the stub hasn't been out in 50 odd years and is likely to be stuck/corroded to the wheel bearing inner race.
If you don't want to risk the wheel bearing, the other method suggested by Brant would be a really close 2nd for me.
Posted by: DRPHIL914 Sep 13 2021, 06:30 PM
Probably better at this point to just remove the castle nut and bang the stub axle out.
But I have access to an impact gun.
However, theres is also minimal risk here is that you accidentally separate the rear wheel bearing races if the stub hasn't been out in 50 odd years and is likely to be stuck/corroded to the wheel bearing inner race.
If you don't want to risk the wheel bearing, the other method suggested by Brant would be a really close 2nd for me.
i did all new bushings bearings and CV’s 6 years ago, along with the 5 lug conversion, all new bushings , pivot shaft etc etc. so everything including brake calipers and lines were put in new back then. it shouldn’t be rusted into place , but i see what you are saying about the bearing, i’d hate or damage that so hopefully the shat will slide out easily.
so pissed i should have had the car running and doing the break in right now.
i am telling you i have a freaking big pry bar 2 actually and tried working that back and forth and no feeling at all that those pins were working loose.
Posted by: brant Sep 13 2021, 06:52 PM
Maybe soaking with Kroil? Overnight….
Posted by: DRPHIL914 Sep 13 2021, 07:48 PM
Maybe soaking with Kroil? Overnight….
i will have to buy some tomorrow who carries it?
Posted by: SirAndy Sep 13 2021, 11:02 PM
That's some really odd discoloration on that CV. Almost looks like it got really hot?
Posted by: jcd914 Sep 14 2021, 12:56 AM
I think that discoloration is from the heat treating process of the machined bearing surface, I have seen it on other brand new CV joints. Have not looked at a new or old 914 CV for some time.
Jim
Posted by: falcor75 Sep 14 2021, 03:04 AM
I use a two foot piece of angle iron that I have drilled two ø 15 mm holes in to be able to bolt it to two wheel studs. Let the free end of the angle iron then be the counterhold against the floor as you unscrew the castle nut. Works every time with or without an impact wrench.
Excuse my terrible paint skills but I think you get the idea. Much easier to do this way than to put a wheel on the ground.
Posted by: DRPHIL914 Sep 14 2021, 07:36 AM
That's some really odd discoloration on that CV. Almost looks like it got really hot?
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=179
couple other pictures with it apart- what do you think-
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Posted by: SirAndy Sep 14 2021, 10:23 AM
That would make sense, it's too even for anything that happened during its lifetime.
Posted by: mepstein Sep 14 2021, 10:44 AM
Phil - If you can see pitting or feel ridges with your fingernail, it's a problem. Discoloration usually isn't an issue.
Posted by: DRPHIL914 Sep 14 2021, 12:02 PM
Phil - If you can see pitting or feel ridges with your fingernail, it's a problem. Discoloration usually isn't an issue.
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825
Mark, yes its discoloration, i dont feel any ridges. i will take a closer look at the other end too once its off the stub, this was the inside one, at the transmission.. i just watched Ian karr's video and mine does not look like the one he shows with marks and grooves .
Phil
Posted by: iankarr Sep 14 2021, 12:53 PM
Arent' those pretty deep grooves in the last pic you posted?
Posted by: 930cabman Sep 14 2021, 01:40 PM
I have a couple, one failed completely (with a cracked cage) and another has grooves deep enough to feel. These are precision bearings and must be inspected and assembled with tight tolerances. Scratching, galling any type of damage means the assembly is scrap. From what I can see Pelican has new assemblies, but cannot find anywhere else.
Posted by: Geezer914 Sep 14 2021, 05:45 PM
PMB performance has CV joints but you have to enlarge 2 holes for the roll pins.
Posted by: bkrantz Sep 14 2021, 07:52 PM
I have a couple, one failed completely (with a cracked cage) and another has grooves deep enough to feel. These are precision bearings and must be inspected and assembled with tight tolerances. Scratching, galling any type of damage means the assembly is scrap. From what I can see Pelican has new assemblies, but cannot find anywhere else.
After ordering CVs twice from Pelican, they do not fit 914-4 axles, no matter what their description says. The spline count in the center is wrong. (They were cool about refunds.)
Posted by: rjames Sep 14 2021, 08:56 PM
You've gone far enough to know you don't want to have to do this job again any time soon. Replace them.
Posted by: DRPHIL914 Sep 14 2021, 09:33 PM
Arent' those pretty deep grooves in the last pic you posted?
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=18749
no palpable grooves, discoloration only. similar to the side where you see coloration change but you can’t feel where that color change happens. it’s deceiving in the pictures.
i know it’s tempting to replace them hard to find parts for rebuilding them, ans these were brand new 6 years ago and less than 10k miles. I had new boots , with just the 4 holes not 6, so i used those for this CV, all cleaned up and replaced new grease.
I removed the castle nut, and easily pushed the stub out and man that stub axle was really stuck on that CV, pulled it all apart cleaned up and put new seals on, bolted back together , and is now in the car and mounted up. Your video was helpful! thanks! tomorrow i will be finishing the safety wiring on the CV bolts, and maybe get the HE back on the car, hook up the FI and wiring harness , if all goes well, break in could be Thursday.
Did you do a video on setting rear venting clearance? this left side rotor and pad drags just a bit, i think while this wheel is off i need to do that.
Posted by: DRPHIL914 Sep 14 2021, 09:38 PM
PMB performance has CV joints but you have to enlarge 2 holes for the roll pins.
I have a couple, one failed completely (with a cracked cage) and another has grooves deep enough to feel. These are precision bearings and must be inspected and assembled with tight tolerances. Scratching, galling any type of damage means the assembly is scrap. From what I can see Pelican has new assemblies, but cannot find anywhere else.
After ordering CVs twice from Pelican, they do not fit 914-4 axles, no matter what their description says. The spline count in the center is wrong. (They were cool about refunds.)
You've gone far enough to know you don't want to have to do this job again any time soon. Replace them.
i looked at pelican, glad you said something about that .
PMB performance, i saw that too, i don’t have time to get them and do all of thst right now, but inwould probably get the Tarett Engineering ones. this was not hard now thst i know i can pull that castle nut and slide it out thst easily it wouldn’t take long to pull both CV and replace them. budget it tight, it’ll have to wait. these were clean and should be fine for 6 months- a year.
Posted by: DRPHIL914 Sep 14 2021, 09:47 PM
tools for getting the castle nut off, and holding the hub in place , worth Ebrake on too, i used this heavy duty rebar water meter tool, worked great to hold it the T at end being placed on the ground , and the other end holds onto a lug the 2 lugs were covered with tape to prevent any damage to threads.
also i have a 30mm socket with this 2 gt breaker bar that i took the rubber handle off and sipped a piece of galvanized pipe over it to give a longer lever- easy peasy, then some light tapping on the axle end to push it back out of the trailing arm . Bearing looks fine-
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Posted by: DRPHIL914 Sep 14 2021, 09:51 PM
all done
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Posted by: Superhawk996 Sep 15 2021, 04:30 AM
Posted by: iankarr Sep 15 2021, 01:22 PM
Nice! Good work!
Posted by: KELTY360 Sep 15 2021, 03:42 PM
Happy ending!!…..well, at least a 914 happy ending. 
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